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kastein posted:Always start with the lowest number code first, they're the most severe and can cause follow on codes. I would look for a broken sensor reference voltage wire to the TPS, fix it if you find one, if you don't, verify the ECU is putting out reference voltage (it probably is if it's running since it's normally used for other sensors too), then replace the TPS and clear the codes, see what happens. Today I got it open eventually (wtf is going on with all that plastic poo poo), and yep it was a broken 5V wire lol.  Here already stripped it myself of course, but it was broken exactly where everyone said it would. Kind of crazy that it's always the exact same wire lol. I think I'll never again complain about soldering at my desk, because this was way more miserable due to the limited access. But I connected it, stuffed everything back, and it starts and runs properly now, no CEL or anything. E: CEL came back on after about half an hour of driving, but I don't have the ELM thingie with me. It still runs fine though so whatever E2: It's P0403, EGR Control Circuit. As the seller said, though it didn't show up when the ECU had bigger issues I suppose. Whatever, it drives fine (slow though) and I don't have to worry for another half year until the next inspection time mobby_6kl fucked around with this message at 17:28 on Dec 31, 2020 |
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Dec 31, 2020 13:25
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SlayVus posted:Can an engine survive a internal coolant leak without causing it issues? My 08 Ford Edge has apparently leaked coolant into the engine from the water pump, no blown head gasket. It's a gamble. Since it was only driven a day where you know of coolant getting into it, the engine may be okay, but with it being overheated... see if they'll do a compression test before they start work. That'll let you know if the head gaskets survived.
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Dec 31, 2020 15:22
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STR posted:It's a gamble. Since it was only driven a day where you know of coolant getting into it, the engine may be okay, but with it being overheated... see if they'll do a compression test before they start work. That'll let you know if the head gaskets survived. They did a compression test first to determine which head gasket it was like it was between two pistons or just one piston entirely. Thats how they determined it was the water pump that leaked into the engine because none of the pistons lost any pressure. The overheat amount, I'm talking like maybe like just 2 to 4 minutes at most. Once I saw my temp gauge, I parked and let it cool down. Walked back home, had someone drive back with me to the drive, and drove it back home after it had sat for an hour. The trip back home was maybe like 2 minutes from where it was parked.
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Dec 31, 2020 20:25
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How do you guys mock up brake lines to determine length / bend angles / bend positions? The intent is four channel E46 M3 ABS in an NB Miata; there is only one line to the rear since OEM is three channel.
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Jan 1, 2021 04:19
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I always used the old lines. If you're trailblazing, I'd use at least 14GA house wire.
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Jan 1, 2021 04:44
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I use scrap romex conductors or bell wire (whatever's handy), or if I'm really half assing it, I get a rough measurement for length with a tape measure, flare one end, hook it up, and route the rest in place, PUT THE OTHER loving NUT ON FACING THE RIGHT WAY, and cut and flare the other end. With cunifer, it bends easily enough that you can generally do it on the vehicle without kinking it or having to start over. E: for example I cut this one about 6 inches long and freehanded it from there. Zero bending tools were used in making this line. 
kastein fucked around with this message at 04:51 on Jan 1, 2021 |
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Jan 1, 2021 04:47
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poo poo, apparently I've been overthinking it. Figured it'd be difficult to bend and not kink 
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Jan 1, 2021 05:21
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Takes a little practice especially on sharp bends, but it's really nice stuff to work with. Way better than the poly coated steel I used to use. Expect to burn a few feet practicing, but it'll go smooth after that.
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Jan 1, 2021 05:44
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Cunifer is a godsend. Any of the steel lines that looked at me funny were replaced with cunifer with zero hesitation. I don't even think I screwed any up, shockingly.
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Jan 1, 2021 08:06
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Are roof racks somehow standardized/universal? I've never used one before but need one for my project Fit (as above). All this is supposed to be on LeMons budget (and I'm a cheap rear end in a top hat) so I'm looking on craigslist but some people either mention a specific model e.g. Passat, a bunch of similarly sized cars, like Golf, Civic, Focus, and other nothing at all. Like this one: Looks like the width is adjustable, as are the little bracket thingies on each end but would it fit (heheh) 
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Jan 1, 2021 11:27
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mobby_6kl posted:Are roof racks somehow standardized/universal? Even if thule racks are out of your budget you could maybe use this website to at least get an idea of what type of clamps might fit your vehicle: https://www.thule.com/en-us/roof-rack/car-roof-racks
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Jan 1, 2021 13:10
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kastein posted:PUT THE OTHER loving NUT ON FACING THE RIGHT WAY I'm barely over 50% on this.
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Jan 1, 2021 17:10
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It looks like I may be moving to Hawaii for a few years. I like to do basic wrenching on my cars and just keep a modest tool bag on hand when I am there, but I also don't want to bring my whole cart and wall of stuff. Can anyone recommend a good basic generic 80% solution tool bag combo to select out of what I have? If this is too vague I apologize. I have pretty much all the standard stuff I've accumulated over the years. I was thinking a set of metric 3/8 sockets, several screwdrivers, allen keys, a drill and driver, some extensions and an assortment of pliers and snips. Anything else people consider a must have tool?
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Jan 1, 2021 18:30
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Start with unique and expensive tools you might have trouble finding out there. Then as full a set as possible of SAE & metric box wrenches and sockets. Most stuff should be easily procurable at big box auto/home. I’d hit forums for folks who live there & see what they say.
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Jan 1, 2021 18:33
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Yeah, it's not like you're moving to the Moon. Hawaii has stores and you'll be able to buy directly or get through Amazon just like anywhere else. It mainly depends on what sort of work you intend to do and how much space you have available. Socket sets, screwdrivers, pliers, wire strippers/cutters/crimpers should handle most of what you need. As PoC suggested, only bring the really unique stuff you know you're going to need otherwise. It would be unfortunate to have to buy duplicates of stuff you left home, but it will likely be a rather small fraction of the total, so NBD.
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Jan 1, 2021 18:57
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Any specialty drivers you may need. Hex, torx, triple square, etc.
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Jan 1, 2021 19:51
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Thanks for the tips. I have a Tocoma (which is apparently the state vehicle) and a subaru, so I think metric should be good. We'll be renting almost certainly so I don't see myself doing much household stuff but being a goon I have my random hobbies I want to keep up.
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Jan 1, 2021 20:19
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I bought a toolkit at Costco for $100 and that's useful for basic stuff and round the home stuff. It has both metric and imperial and I only use the imperial for old furniture and stuff like that. They have a different brand now though.
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Jan 1, 2021 21:29
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I've got the tools already, just trying to prioritize what comes and what stays. Sorry if I wasn't clear.
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Jan 1, 2021 22:04
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Mercury Ballistic posted:I've got the tools already, just trying to prioritize what comes and what stays. Sorry if I wasn't clear. My bad, I missed that.
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Jan 1, 2021 22:38
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Stupid question, has anyone ever tried to charge a battery with a battery tender wire that screws on to the battery terminals? I was thinking about this recently, if I have a battery in my motorcycle that died and lets say I am feeling lazy and don't want to take it out of the bike, could I safely charge it with a regular battery charger through the quick-connect that my battery tender uses? At first glance the wires look like they are the same gauge, my battery tender came with a set of screw in terminal connectors (which are connected and working) and a second set of alligator clips that also has a quick connect. If lets say for instance instead of connecting the quick connect to the tender, I connected the quick connect to the quick connect of the alligator clips, and then connected the alligator clips to my regular battery charger that should work right? The only issue I think I would have is that there's a 7.5 amp fuse on the quick connect and I think my charger would be 10 amp, also I am not sure if connecting the two quick connects to each other in that fashion would reverse the terminals polarity. I think connecting them like that would make the negative terminal connect to the positive side of the battery, and they positive connect the negative but to how the quick connects are setup. Would this be stupidly dangerous?
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Jan 1, 2021 23:40
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MasterOSkillio posted:there's a 7.5 amp fuse on the quick connect and I think my charger would be 10 amp, This means you will blow the fuse on the quick connect. The skinny wires on the tender lead are probably not rated for 10 amps either. If you set your charger to something more reasonable, like 2-5A, there's no reason you can't do what you're thinking. A tender lead is just a pair of wires. After you get your chain of adapters set up how you like, figure out which one ends up being positive and which is negative (use a multimeter in continuity mode or just carefully trace the wires, it's usually obvious which one goes into which contact), and hook up your charger accordingly. If you have a bunch of loose wires and alligator clips hanging off the bike, tape them down somewhere so that if they snap loose they don't accidentally short out. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 23:47 on Jan 1, 2021 |
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Jan 1, 2021 23:44
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Sagebrush posted:This means you will blow the fuse on the quick connect. The skinny wires on the tender lead are probably not rated for 10 amps either. Yes, that makes sense, I have a Schumacher SC-7500A 12V Automatic Battery Charger. I just went and looked it up, under the small battery charging selection it only charges at 2 amps, that seems to me like a fair margin of error for the battery to charge. Now I just have to find a way to make sure that the terminal polarities are not reversed when connecting two quick connects to each other, and I have a lazy mans way to charge my battery if it ever dies on me and the tender isn't up to the task of getting it going!
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Jan 1, 2021 23:53
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FWIW a small tender can still recover a dead battery as long as it's not completely utterly flat. (Maybe even then if you trick it with a quick boost of 12v). It will just take longer to do so. Your motorcycle battery has a capacity of perhaps 12 amp-hours. This means that it can produce 12 amps for 1 hour, or 3 amps for 4 hours, or 0.1 amps for 120 hours, etc. The math works the same way for charging, albeit with some energy lost to inefficiency. So if your 12Ah battery is nearly 100% dead, it will take a bit longer than 6 hours at 2A to recharge it. A battery tender supplies more like 0.5A, so it will take 24 hours to recharge, but it'll still get there eventually.
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Jan 1, 2021 23:57
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Agreed. It's not quite that simple because lead acid batteries are subject to Peukerts Law, but in general, that is true, you can charge a lead acid battery at nearly any rate below its max and it will reach 100% eventually.
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Jan 2, 2021 04:35
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I have been trying to figure out this alternator light issue. The light stayed on even when the truck was off, and when I tried to start it yesterday, the battery was dead. I used my jump box to start it up and tried to do another voltage test. When I turned the headlights on, the instrument cluster went crazy. All the gauges were bouncing around, warning lights were turning on and off. Could the issue just be a bad instrument cluster? Would that drain the battery even if the truck was off? I had it sitting for like a week. Would a faulty cluster drain power even when the truck is off? Or is there some other electrical mystery I need to solve?
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Jan 2, 2021 21:38
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Smells like a bad ground honestly. When you turn on the lights the power tries to find another route to negative and backfeeds into other circuits and it causes all kinds of problems.
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Jan 2, 2021 22:13
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mobby_6kl posted:So I roadkilled it home last night, the limp mode was pretty good and I could keep up with traffic. That is until the last few km, where it got even more limp and wouldn't go past 1.5k rpm. I tried to fix it in the nearest parking spot but gave up because it was dark, cold and the wiring loom just wouldn't come out, so it was just easier to drive home at 10km/h. Next time just unplug the map/maf sensor and the car will run on a default base tune
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Jan 3, 2021 03:59
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Invalido posted:Not really. I like Thule racks, they're the best I've used. They sell a couple of different lengths of the actual bars, aero-shaped as well as square profiles of various sorts. These have slots in them that offer some adjustability in width. Then there are a whole bunch of different models of feet/clamps that interface between the bars and the car. These things are not exactly car specific depending on car model (rails are usually pretty similar between cars for example and most rail clamps will work to some degree) but there's going to be a specific clamp model that is the best possible fit. Some cars have rails, some have threaded inserts in the roof specifically for the purpose. Sometimes you need to clamp to a rain gutter or in the door opening. Preoptopus posted:Next time just unplug the map/maf sensor and the car will run on a default base tune  Hopefully there won't be a next time, but since I was the one who fixed it, definitely better to keep that in mind  mobby_6kl posted:E: CEL came back on after about half an hour of driving, but I don't have the ELM thingie with me. It still runs fine though so whatever   Unfortunately the wiring colors don't match any of the diagrams I've found, but after poking around with a multimeter, blue/red is 12v and green/black (?) in the bottom row is gnd. The resistance is 6.5Ohm so within spec. But testing it with a power supply, it takes about 1.5 amps and doesn't do anything. There's a faint click when I turn off the power, so I guess it's stuck and can't move. It doesn't seem to be horribly dirty to me, the thin layer from the plunger came off with a gentle wipe. But I'll get the cleaner tomorrow just to give it a chance before throwing junkyard parts at it.
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Jan 3, 2021 15:47
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So in September, I bought a new used car, a single-owner 2009 Buick allure with 117,000 km on the clock. It has the last year of the 3.8L v6, which is the *gen III* when GM finally fixed the engine's big flaw of the previous 20 or so years and was very proud of itself. But as I've gotten used to it, I've noticed a mechanical whine sound the engine has. It's high pitched, seems to follow the throttle but never entirely goes away. Gunning the engine or making sharp turns to the right makes it more pronounced. Anyway, I have no idea if this is the sound of something breaking down, something that needs more fluid or just a sound the engine/transmission makes. Also, the car came with winter tires. They were not in the best condition; they had little dry-rot cracks around the wheel. But the other day I noticed this:  Two of the tires have these larger cracks in 'em. Are these tires toast?
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Jan 3, 2021 20:08
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The rubber has to be at about "hockey puck" consistency now, which is pretty terrible for snow and ice traction. Check the date code: https://www.tireamerica.com/resource/tire-date-code#:~:text=The%20last%20four%20digits%20of,week%20of%20the%20year%202000. I bet they're 10 years old at least. Double what you ought to be running.
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Jan 3, 2021 20:15
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Nebakenezzer posted:So in September, I bought a new used car, a single-owner 2009 Buick allure with 117,000 km on the clock. It has the last year of the 3.8L v6, which is the *gen III* when GM finally fixed the engine's big flaw of the previous 20 or so years and was very proud of itself. But as I've gotten used to it, I've noticed a mechanical whine sound the engine has. It's high pitched, seems to follow the throttle but never entirely goes away. Gunning the engine or making sharp turns to the right makes it more pronounced. Anyway, I have no idea if this is the sound of something breaking down, something that needs more fluid or just a sound the engine/transmission makes. Might be time for a power steering fluid change.
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Jan 3, 2021 20:18
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C-Bangin' it 
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Motronic posted:The rubber has to be at about "hockey puck" consistency now, which is pretty terrible for snow and ice traction. Aside from this, that specific pattern makes me think the tire has also been driven on extensively with low pressure - also terrible for the tire. I've had tires with less dry rot than that blow out at highway speeds. It's time for new rubber. Post a video of the sound but the way you describe it I'd also lean towards power steering fluid, or maybe a pulley / bearing on the belt drive that's unhappy when it gets loaded up.
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Jan 3, 2021 20:50
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Green steelies though? (Sorry) I googled the car and this must look hilarious?
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Jan 3, 2021 21:09
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mobby_6kl posted:Thanks. I think I found the right clamps, so if the bars/rest of the stuff shows up that might be the way to go. Otherwise I'll try to track down something similar then.
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Jan 4, 2021 00:08
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MrOnBicycle posted:Green steelies though? (Sorry) I googled the car and this must look hilarious? I'm not sure if this is a recent development or something I just noticed, but Canadian Tire started stocking anti-rust paint in tractor colors. I then noticed people using it on their winter wheels. You got caterpillar yellow, ford red, and John Deere green. On a black car I thought the green would look best Thanks for the tips gentlemen, gonna try them out
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Jan 4, 2021 02:57
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Nebakenezzer posted:I'm not sure if this is a recent development or something I just noticed, but Canadian Tire started stocking anti-rust paint in tractor colors. I then noticed people using it on their winter wheels. You got caterpillar yellow, ford red, and John Deere green. Please tell me you can get Kubota orange
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Jan 4, 2021 03:32
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Nebakenezzer posted:So in September, I bought a new used car, a single-owner 2009 Buick allure with 117,000 km on the clock. It has the last year of the 3.8L v6, which is the *gen III* when GM finally fixed the engine's big flaw of the previous 20 or so years and was very proud of itself. But as I've gotten used to it, I've noticed a mechanical whine sound the engine has. It's high pitched, seems to follow the throttle but never entirely goes away. Gunning the engine or making sharp turns to the right makes it more pronounced. Anyway, I have no idea if this is the sound of something breaking down, something that needs more fluid or just a sound the engine/transmission makes. You are one pothole, small object or high-G turn away from a bad day. I wouldn't drive it anywhere except to a tire place, praying all the while. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 05:44 on Jan 4, 2021 |
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Jan 4, 2021 05:25
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Nebakenezzer posted:I'm not sure if this is a recent development or something I just noticed, but Canadian Tire started stocking anti-rust paint in tractor colors. I then noticed people using it on their winter wheels. You got caterpillar yellow, ford red, and John Deere green. Ah I see. Cool (and hilarious!). tactlessbastard posted:Please tell me you can get Kubota orange This.
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Jan 4, 2021 08:36
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tactlessbastard posted:Please tell me you can get Kubota orange Which one?
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Jan 4, 2021 15:03
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