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oh wow, i had no idea you could do that. sorry for the inconvenience, but thanks!
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Jan 17, 2021 02:18
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abelwingnut posted:hi, i know nothing about cars, so apologies if this is stupid. but i am trying to identify this model of jaguar: Ca. 1985 Jaguar XJ6. Not sure of exact year. Grille was smaller and more pinched by the mid-90s.
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Jan 17, 2021 02:20
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i guess another random question. some jags have the actual jaguar hood ornament. some, like this, don't. is that optional? or something that changed throughout the years? something individual to each car?
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Jan 17, 2021 02:22
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abelwingnut posted:oh wow, i had no idea you could do that. sorry for the inconvenience, but thanks! I found out that the o'reilly lookup tool I used to abuse for this purpose is now broken, and had to go looking for another way to do it, so I learned something today too.
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Jan 17, 2021 02:37
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I just found out that if you want to get an insurance quote here, you can enter the plate number and it'll fill in the model, year, and displacement automatically for any car. There might be better ways but I actually needed insurance.
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Jan 17, 2021 09:57
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abelwingnut posted:i guess another random question. some jags have the actual jaguar hood ornament. some, like this, don't. is that optional? or something that changed throughout the years? something individual to each car? I assume you are referring to what is known as the "leaper" - the full cat that sticks up above the hood. That's gone since 2005 due to pedestrian impact standards. Before that, generally available as an option either as part of a trim package or as a stand-alone depending on the year.
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Jan 17, 2021 17:12
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e: figured it out
BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 23:36 on Jan 17, 2021 |
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Jan 17, 2021 23:30
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I was in a fairly minor front-end collision that mainly damaged my car's bumper cover, radiator mount, and hood. I want to get this fixed asap but not in a way that screws me over given the car's age (2006 Volvo XC70), and as such I want to have a shop fix the radiator support mount and hood while leaving myself with the bumper cover work (I've previously removed and repaired the bumper cover before when I hit a snowbank) I have an estimate for the total repair job from insurance's collision shop, but with the car's age obviously it's totaled and I'm going the salvage/repair route. They've also sourced a lot of OEM parts that I could find aftermarket for much less (ie. aftermarket headlamp L+R set for $360 on Amazon vs theirs $315 each for OEM, or a radiator support mount for $90 vs dealer at $723). I also don't care about paint-matching the hood hinges or scrapyard hood (for now at least) My questions are: - what should I expect for as a labor estimate for the radiator support? Should I have them source one (used or aftermarket) or can I bring my own aftermarket one? If the former, any ways to make sure they charge me for a scrapyard/aftermarket one and not a dealership one? - is it common for/would the shop be okay with a partial repair of the car up until the bumper cover (ie I do the grille, fog lights, cover mounting) or would they take that unkindly? - what kind of shop (body shop or auto repair) should I take the repair to? this job largely seems like a parts swap of the damaged pieces hood, radiator mount/supports, condenser (maybe)
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Jan 18, 2021 00:34
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How much does mounting a backup camera off center screw things up, and if I have to, does it matter which direction? I'm looking to add one to a Jeep Cherokee in this region: In this shot, the trim piece which overlays the handles and license plate light has been removed/shifted up. You can see that the license plate light kills dead center, and the two "handles" mean the nearest flat spot is ~4" outboard. Removing one of the handles IS an option, since I don't think I've ever touched them. I'm debating how much it matters if something has a 170° field of view, and which way would be better if I were going to mount it off-center. (I'm thinking mount it passenger side, which should give a better view of the curb? - I keep flipping thought processes on this, I'm not sure which would give a better view of the curb. I think if I don't rotate off-axis, passenger side will give a better view, but mounting driver-side with rotation toward the curb could be even better, albeit not straight. The camera is going to be something like this if I can mount it under that surface or like this if I have to move to mounting it in the trim piece above (which, center will STILL be a problem, because of the light wiring). Or I could remove that wiper drive (centered above all of this) and mount it there, but I think I'd have to move it outward and it would probably stand out more. Krakkles fucked around with this message at 01:37 on Jan 18, 2021 |
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Jan 18, 2021 01:29
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Krakkles posted:How much does mounting a backup camera off center screw things up, and if I have to, does it matter which direction? I'm looking to add one to a Jeep Cherokee in this region: Many factory provided backup cameras are off center to begin with, so you should be fine. I mounted one similar to the first one you linked on a prius that had a flat plastic panel next to the trunk handle to install it on (it was a factory option so the spot was there but not filled). When mounted, it was turned slightly towards the center, just a couple of degrees, but it made the bumper visible at the bottom of the screen inside the car and seemed as even as it could be given the distortion from the lens. Ultimately running the cable inside the car is the longer part of the process since you want to pop off trim panels and run it along with the existing cables going from the trunk to the dashboard.
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Jan 18, 2021 06:17
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Rexxed posted:Many factory provided backup cameras are off center to begin with, so you should be fine. I mounted one similar to the first one you linked on a prius that had a flat plastic panel next to the trunk handle to install it on (it was a factory option so the spot was there but not filled). When mounted, it was turned slightly towards the center, just a couple of degrees, but it made the bumper visible at the bottom of the screen inside the car and seemed as even as it could be given the distortion from the lens. Ultimately running the cable inside the car is the longer part of the process since you want to pop off trim panels and run it along with the existing cables going from the trunk to the dashboard. Upside: I did this once before in a car with a full interior, and it was ... yeah, it was annoying. It wasn't awful, but it was annoying. This one does not have a full interior 
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Jan 18, 2021 06:32
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Figured I would ask here in case other goons have gone through this process before. If I live in CA and am trying to gift my wife’s (CA-registered) car to my dad in TX, what process should I take? I figured the steps were: 1. Transfer title to dad through CA DMV 2. Ship car to Texas 3. My dad registers car through Texas DMV using CA title with his name on it Is that right? Thanks for the help.
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Jan 18, 2021 15:12
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Pretty much, but you're going to need to fill this out, and you're going to have to find a way to get his signature on the title. TX has a gift process you can follow, form here: https://www.txdmv.gov/sites/default/files/form_files/14-317.pdf - you wouldn't have to put it in his name first. Unfortunately they require that document to be notarized, so both your dad and your wife would have to be present. If it's an older car, your wife could just write a bill of sale for a low amount and sign the title, send them to him ahead of the car, and it'll be taxed based on the standard presumptive value (calculator here - https://www.txdmv.gov/standard-presumptive-calculator) when he transfers the title. It may wind up being easier if the SPV is low. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 16:13 on Jan 18, 2021 |
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Jan 18, 2021 16:09
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STR posted:Pretty much, but you're going to need to fill this out, and you're going to have to find a way to get his signature on the title. Thanks for this! Yeah, us being in the same room together isn't going to happen anytime soon because of covid. It seems like this process will work best: 1. Have him print out CA form above and sign it in appropriate spot, then mail to us to get the rest filled in 2. Write up bill of sale for the car (even though we're giving it to him for free), have him pay the sales tax in Texas 3. Ship the car (2 and 3 can occur relatively concurrently)
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Jan 18, 2021 16:50
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Suicide Watch posted:I was in a fairly minor front-end collision that mainly damaged my car's bumper cover, radiator mount, and hood. I want to get this fixed asap but not in a way that screws me over given the car's age (2006 Volvo XC70), and as such I want to have a shop fix the radiator support mount and hood while leaving myself with the bumper cover work (I've previously removed and repaired the bumper cover before when I hit a snowbank) On the estimate, you should have an R&I labor time for the radiator support. It'll be a number like 2.3 or something that will be on a line either right before or right after the part number for the radiator support. This is the total book time in hours. Labor times are highly standard. You can ask to BYO aftermarket part but keep in mind that the shop makes margin on parts, so they may not allow you to do so, or they may charge you to do so. They may also be able to source the part more cheaply than you can. You can make sure they are sourcing the right stuff by looking at the part type code on the estimate. I would take the insurance estimate to the shop, and tell them that you are going to repair this as a customer pay repair job. Walk through the estimate with them and describe exactly what you want them to include in the repair scope. Tell them you want to use cheapest available. Some shops may not be willing to do a partial repair, but I am sure you can find a shop of sufficiently low quality that will allow you to do part of the work yourself. Any shop is going to draw up an estimate for whatever you ask them to do, so just have them do that and look at it carefully. You should take it to a body shop since you are loving about with rad support. The good news is that body shop labor rates are way lower than mechanical.
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Jan 18, 2021 17:27
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2008 ford focus, 2.0 petrol engine, automatic. The cooling fan isn't turning on. Hell of a drive home from the coast yesterday. I've checked the fuses and the relay in the underbonnet fuse box, fuse is good, relay clicks on when you hit it with 12v and you get continuity across the other terminals. Ran 12v to the fan itself, which makes it spin. I pulled out the little control module on the fan itself, and tried to get continuity across the terminals in the side that plugs into the wiring harness, and it would show a number very briefly on my multimeter, but then drop to zero and there would be no tone that should indicate continuity. Is it toast? Is there another test I should do before ordering a new control module? None of the wiring looks burnt out at all, and the unit is sealed so I can't take a look at the inside of it.
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Jan 19, 2021 06:16
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2000 Toyota Sienna FWD, offroading. What's the deal with these: air helper springs. They look like exactly what I need to raise the rear an inch or two for more ground clearance. Clearance in back hasn't been an issue so far, but I'm raising the front with stiffer springs and it'd be nice to get a similar gain in the back. I like anything that puts more distance between my gas tank and pointy rocks. The prices are pretty cheap. Are they crap? Any issues I should be aware of? ryanrs fucked around with this message at 11:12 on Jan 19, 2021 |
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Jan 19, 2021 11:08
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They're generally designed to stiffen up the back for towing, so handling might be ... interesting? Certainly it will be stiffer. Know that you're going to need a compressor setup as well, so they're not quite as cheap as they look.
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Jan 19, 2021 17:49
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I already have a compressor to air my tires up/down. I think the air bags have tubing that goes to a schrader valve? One more valve to mess with when I'm deflating my tires isn't a big deal. I'll be running my tires at 15-20 psi when the bags are inflated, so ride quality might still be ok. ryanrs fucked around with this message at 22:52 on Jan 19, 2021 |
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Jan 19, 2021 22:45
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ryanrs posted:I already have a compressor to air my tires up/down. I think the air bags have tubing that goes to a schrader valve? One more valve to mess with when I'm deflating my tires isn't a big deal. So this is an off-road application? You do realize that suspension travel is pretty important there. This sounds like a great way to make and keep your center of gravity way high and have rollover problems.
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Jan 19, 2021 22:55
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Motronic posted:So this is an off-road application? Yes offroad, but not like racing or going fast. It's a fwd minivan, after all. And we're only talking an inch or two, so I don't think that's going to suddenly roll over.
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Jan 19, 2021 23:10
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ryanrs posted:Yes offroad, but not like racing or going fast. It's a fwd minivan, after all. And we're only talking an inch or two, so I don't think that's going to suddenly roll over. You're talking an inch or two of height plus you've completely compromised your suspension's ability to compress. That last part is what I don't think you understand. Add those two things up and you've significantly changed the CG. You should be very cautious about this, as it sounds like you're making this thing less capable that it was before.
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Jan 19, 2021 23:22
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Dude's driving his Toyota Sienna into the woods for deer huntin', if I recall correctly. It's a weird application, but whatever
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Jan 20, 2021 02:23
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Safety Dance posted:Dude's driving his Toyota Sienna into the woods for deer huntin', if I recall correctly. It's a weird application, but whatever I get it, I just don't want to see him lay it over on it's side.
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Jan 20, 2021 02:32
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Don't slip, it's a long way down. 
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Jan 20, 2021 04:57
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As much as I love off-road vanning, I'd argue that if you're considering $actualmoney mods to lift it - that money would be better spent on something with actual ground clearance in stock form. Either that or go full Gambler and plan on driving that van into the ground because nobody will buy it off of you in the future.
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Jan 20, 2021 05:00
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See the thing is, it needs new shocks anyway, so I'm already messing with those parts. Or at least that's what I'm telling myself. And resale value is not even distant memory at this point, so it doesn't factor in too much. It's more like, here's a free van, drive it or junk it.
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Jan 20, 2021 05:05
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Nobody's talking about resale value. We get you need new shocks. What is being said is that, as much as a minivan that got lifted might be bad rear end, it would actually make it less safe and reduce your capabilities. Nobody is trying to take your fun away dude. That thing is awesome as it sits and if you need to replace parts do so in kind unless and until you have a fully formed plan where you know it's at least as good and if not better than it was before for the things you are using it to do.
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Jan 20, 2021 05:17
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I am not a mechanic but... If you want more clearance and really don't care about resale value: Grab a sawzall/angle grinder and carve out enough to stick larger wheels onto it. That could end up easier than loving with suspension and poo poo. Can someone with experience comment? E: you can get a FWD Sienna lift kit for $750, that could be a better option? Outrail fucked around with this message at 05:24 on Jan 20, 2021 |
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Jan 20, 2021 05:18
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Outrail posted:I am not a mechanic but... If you want more clearance and really don't care about resale value: Grab a sawzall/angle grinder and carve out enough to stick larger What's the actual suspension look like on those things? I'm assuming it's not something where a lift kit is (available, inexpensive, simple, ...), right? edit: Beaten on the lift kit thing, but yeah, that's the way to go if you really want to get it higher. The one I found doesn't appear to have an application for that model year, but I didn't look very hard. https://www.journeysoffroad.com/siennaliftkits.html Krakkles fucked around with this message at 05:31 on Jan 20, 2021 |
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Jan 20, 2021 05:27
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Rims+tires=wheels? 
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Jan 20, 2021 05:32
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Outrail posted:Rims+tires=wheels? rims = wheels
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Jan 20, 2021 05:34
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Well, it is IFS and appears to have a straight rear axle beam (not actually straight) so lifting it will actually increase undercarriage clearance in slightly different ways than larger tires. Honestly I suggest both, if you can. You can compensate for increased center of gravity by also increasing wheel track a bit with either wheels that have less backspacing or wheel spacers, and that's not a bad idea. Lifting it will significantly impact road harshness especially as the control arms likely aren't very long on that thing (it's not really designed for this, as you know, so the arms are gonna be pretty short) so your arm angles will get unmanageable pretty fast compared to vehicles intended to be used offroad. For example the Cherokee and Comanche I'm used to have lower control arm lengths of about 16-16.5" and even those most people won't go over about 4-5 inches of lift without considering drop brackets (don't do this, it'll seriously affect the toughness of your chassis and likely gently caress up your CV shaft and steering angles) or long arms. The sienna arms I'm seeing on Google images look like they can't be much longer than 12-13in from the line through the two frame side pivots to the center of the lower balljoint, which means you probably should stay under 3ish inches, and having run both stock and 4in lifted Cherokees and Comanches... You are going to feel it at 2ish inches too, and handling will be affected. I'd really look at tire size, skidplates as you considered early on, and body clearance work first. Once that is maxed out, suspension lift. Skid plates can often be home fabricobbled, they're going to get smashed up, it's not like they have to be pretty. I mean, this is AI not AS, do your thing. I've seen far worse done on Gambler 500 cars. Just take everything into account before you make the choice.
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Jan 20, 2021 05:42
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The point about short control arms is useful, thanks. I went from OEM 205/70R15 to LT215/75R15. Diameter increased from 26.3" to 27.7". It rubs slightly at full lock and I probably can't use snow chains anymore. I feel like I'm at max tire size unless other stuff is changed. I already have a large skid plate. That's sort of what prompted this idea. The skid plate is pretty heavy (you def know it's there), and I figured going to stiffer springs in front would give me about an inch, which when added to the skid plate sag means I'm going from -0.5 to +0.5, or -0.25 to +0.75, or something like that. Not 3-4" or whatever. Clearance in back hasn't really been a problem, but I saw the air bags and thought that since they were pretty cheap, it'd be nice to be able to fine tune the rear height to match the stiffer springs up front, or even to level the van for sleeping. It seems like if they are bad for ride harshness or road handling, it's pretty easy to "turn them off" by letting out the air. Anyway, this may all be for nothing, depending on the diagnosis of all the other things I'm taking it in for (incl. ominous dash lights and scary noises from the transmission).
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Jan 20, 2021 06:45
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FWIIW, last night I ordered a set of ~1" spring spacers for my gambler Fit from some company in Russia because, sensibly, nobody else made them. They were like $50 so we'll just see what happens, while I expect some compromises in handling, my only real concern is that taking apart the front struts would be a pain in the rear end due to the rust. Unfortunately just using bigger wheels is very illegal, so I probably won't do it.
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Jan 20, 2021 09:09
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mobby_6kl posted:Unfortunately just using bigger wheels is very illegal, so I probably won't do it. Where is this? "Bigger wheels" is like 60% of the US aftermarket car crap industry, ha ha.
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Jan 20, 2021 09:15
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ryanrs posted:Where is this? "Bigger wheels" is like 60% of the US aftermarket car crap industry, ha ha. Most of europe I think has this. The exact wheel and tire combo is written in the vehicle registration and you're not allowed to have anything else. This is checked at the regular inspections (obviously you can swap the approved ones) and by cops randomly. You can have a different size added if you get it approved by the manufacturer but good luck with that. Honda told me to gently caress off even though these could have optional 15"  I'd need actually larger tires to lift it and there's 0 chance of that being approved without bribery. I'm not particularly scared of the fines but insurance could deny the claim if they find out you had wrong tires.
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Jan 20, 2021 13:23
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Motronic posted:Nobody's talking about resale value. I sort of was, because there's a point where if you're modifying something in an excessively unusual way, you're going to make it very hard to sell in the future. It's why I sold my WJ when I did. Easy to sell lightly modded, but most people who want something with 33s or 35s are going to skip right past the Sawzalled WJ and go for a Wrangler instead. If the final destination is the junkyard, no worries about that. But then if it's got other possibly catastrophic problems, those should be accounted for as well. Scrap value of van + transmission replacement + suspension rebuild + air bag upgrade starts looking a lot like "cheap 4WD truck" money.
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Jan 20, 2021 15:54
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IOwnCalculus posted:If the final destination is the junkyard, no worries about that. But then if it's got other possibly catastrophic problems, those should be accounted for as well. Scrap value of van + transmission replacement + suspension rebuild + air bag upgrade starts looking a lot like "cheap 4WD truck" money. Transmission replacement is definitely not gonna happen. Mechanic is pulling codes as we speak. Lol if it ends up getting scrapped less than 3 months after I got the skid plate.
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Jan 20, 2021 18:58
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That's when you pull the skid plate and look for another van. 
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Jan 20, 2021 21:27
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