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http://www.woodbin.com/calcs/sagulator.htm
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Jul 13, 2011 17:08
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Does anyone here do aspects of woodworking either as a side job or career? Trades, furniture design, whatever, or somewhat close? I graduated with a degree in Industrial Design and jobs are tough right now, but the one thing that I would happily work doing on this sort of payscale is woodworking. I've applied to some apprenticeships and the like, but I have no idea how these work or how one gets into the production environment without having a background in it. For work I submitted photos of the tiny bit of furniture design I did, some woodturning and design projects and photos of stuff I did at two internships at an industrial design shop, mostly furniture.
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Jul 16, 2011 02:03
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I tried selling custom work for extra cash but there were tons of others doing the same and most of the need was for kitchens which I didn't want to do. I did sell a nice aquarium stand but the idiot kept insisting that that it had to be "level". I kept explaining that I could only build it square and whether it was level would depend on his floor. He never got it. Luckily his floor was level and it all worked out. I also built an arcade cabinet then decided I didn't really want to do custom woodworking. Working for a shop though might be better. On another subject... I put in new kitchen cabinets a while back and there was a 7.25" space next to the sink cabinet. I built a base for it and now need to build a narrow door but I don't think I can match the existing cabinet doors without buying some more router bits which I don't want to do because I recently lost my job and money is tight with all the other home repairs I need to work on... so my question is this, any advice on kind of door I should build that will not look like rear end? Maybe just a slab front? Some pics... The space:  Close up of the doors: 
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Jul 16, 2011 03:06
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wormil posted:On another subject... I put in new kitchen cabinets a while back and there was a 7.25" space next to the sink cabinet. I built a base for it and now need to build a narrow door but I don't think I can match the existing cabinet doors without buying some more router bits which I don't want to do because I recently lost my job and money is tight with all the other home repairs I need to work on... so my question is this, any advice on kind of door I should build that will not look like rear end? Maybe just a slab front? It almost looks like you could get that outer moulding as an off-the-shelf bit from your local home center and then you'd just need to build a raised panel door with an ogee detail around the panel. That'd just be one router bit. Otherwise I'd say go for a slab-front door and try and make it look as hidden as possible like it was just a filler strip or something (which it would have been had you not put that spice-rack thingy there). You could even forgo a handle if you don't mind opening that particular door by pulling it around the toe-kick area.
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Jul 16, 2011 04:57
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I decided to just make a raised panel (no rails or stiles) out of MDF and be done with it for now.
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Jul 17, 2011 07:51
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Yeah I don't see why just matching paint and making a flat piece is bad- I've seen that a lot and as long as you match it neatly in color and fit no one's the wiser, or cares anyway.
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Jul 17, 2011 19:23
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Decided that I needed a coffee table in my terribly spartan living room. Scrounged up some old barn boards from the side of a barn and some glass tile that was on sale at Home Depot. Slapped it together, put some black grout in there and voila. lovely cell phone pics get bigger by clicking on them.  
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Jul 18, 2011 02:05
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Blistex posted:Decided that I needed a coffee table... Definitely has charm. I really like the weathered wood.
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Jul 18, 2011 06:37
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Heads up, if anyone needs chisels, Lee Valley has Narex bevel edge chisel sets on sale starting today: http://www.leevalley.com/us/newsletters/WS/2/16/newsletter.htm Seems like a pretty good price.
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Jul 19, 2011 22:20
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Jesus christ they made more. Forget if it was last year or year before when these came out, but they won edge retention and all sorts of awards from fine woodworker and other review sites. Those narex chisels are the goddamn cat's meow and a steal. I got em at the tail end of when they came out and am so happy with them.
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Jul 20, 2011 01:53
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hmm, anyone had experience ordering from lee valley and getting things shipped overseas? specifically to australia 
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Jul 20, 2011 06:42
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A while back I expressed interest in making poo poo out of wood, specifically furniture, but I lived in an apartment. Well we've made an offer on a home and they accepted so now we just need to close. This is fantastic because there's so much room for me to work on poo poo! I am going through the thread again and I ordered a couple books, but I'm not a patient person. While browsing my Amex's rewards partner pages I found this cabinet I'd like to have, but not spend $1,600 on.   I'm thinking maybe I'd like to make one side a wine chiller, and then just one of the thin drawers at the top, bottle & wine glass storage on the other side. How hard do you guys think this would be to make, what essential tools would I need, what kind of joints are holding the 'slats' on, and what essential reading do I need to do? Oh, and since I know I need chisels, should I jump on that Lee Valley set above?
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Jul 21, 2011 17:02
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RizieN posted:A while back I expressed interest in making poo poo out of wood, specifically furniture, but I lived in an apartment. Well we've made an offer on a home and they accepted so now we just need to close. This is fantastic because there's so much room for me to work on poo poo! It doesn't look like those slats go all the way to the back edge of their frame so I would guess it is using stopped dadoes for them. edit: You could probably do almost 100% of that with a decent table saw. You'll certainly want one for doing the slats as that's a lot of repetitive work. The rest of the construction could be done with plywood with hardwood edging (except door frames, those would need to be hardwood). edit2: The nice thing about the symmetrical shelves if you can do the sides and back out the same sheet of plywood you can cut the dadoes for the shelves before cutting the panels out of the sheet ensuring the shelves will sit evenly and also getting some grain continuity across the back and sides. kafkasgoldfish fucked around with this message at 17:27 on Jul 21, 2011 |
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Jul 21, 2011 17:17
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I might get jumped on but you wouldn't need chisels for that project. They'd help, sure, but not necessary. If you just bought a house, definitely get a big rear end table saw and begin planning an air system and tell your significant other whatever room you chose as the work room will forever be messy and covered in dust. Congrats.
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Jul 21, 2011 23:40
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At the risk of inflaming another tool debate that has already been had, I'd check out picking up a tracksaw instead of a table saw fist. You'll have most of the functionality of a table saw plus it's portable, takes up less space and is much safer. Regardless of which direction you opt to go - that's a hell of a cabinet. I have a friend with a Howard Miller cabinet and I am jealous as hell. I might have to put one of those on my "maybe someday" build list.
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Jul 22, 2011 00:42
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TouchyMcFeely posted:At the risk of inflaming another tool debate that has already been had, I'd check out picking up a tracksaw instead of a table saw fist. You'll have most of the functionality of a table saw plus it's portable, takes up less space and is much safer. Seems like it'd be torture to cut 40-some 1.5"x6' slats and then do another 120 crosscuts with a track saw. At least with a table saw he can build a nice lil sled to do repeatable crosscuts. I can imagine some jigs you could build to do it with a tracksaw but still...ouch man. edit: a tracksaw would be nice for breaking down the panels, I'll grant you that but a decent tablesaw would have no trouble in this case as well.
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Jul 22, 2011 00:49
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kafkasgoldfish posted:Seems like it'd be torture to cut 40-some 1.5"x6' slats and then do another 120 crosscuts with a track saw. At least with a table saw he can build a nice lil sled to do repeatable crosscuts. I can imagine some jigs you could build to do it with a tracksaw but still...ouch man. To do that kind of breakdown there's a couple of options with a track saw. You could do it using just the standard tracksaw setup, which I agree would be painful. You could also get or put together something like the Eureka Ripsizer or you could go all out and get a table like the Eureka EZOne Powerbench. (I'm whoring Eureka because that's what I have and what I'm familiar with.) But I do agree that same kind of work could be done with a tablesaw with excellent results as well. Just thought it would be worth throwing out another option for a new guy to look at and help muddy his decision.
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Jul 22, 2011 01:51
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Not an Anthem posted:I might get jumped on but you wouldn't need chisels for that project. They'd help, sure, but not necessary. If you just bought a house, definitely get a big rear end table saw and begin planning an air system and tell your significant other whatever room you chose as the work room will forever be messy and covered in dust. Congrats. The chisels weren't exactly for this project (though I imagine they'd help a LOT with the Dado joints), but I know that I've been dying to make furniture since I could remember, and that I'd need them eventually, and was mainly just wondering that if the Lee Valley set is quality & whether or not I should jump on it now. I'm thinking I'll sacrifice my half of the 2 car detached garage as a work area, and sort out the ventilation later. There's really no where else I can do it (the basement will be an office, theater & wet-bar, and isn't a walk-out), other than storing all my tools in my garage, and taking them outside to work...which at that point I might as well just work straight from my car's part of the garage. re: tracksaw vs tablesaw; I know for sure that I'll be getting the Router attachment for my Dremel. My Uncle has a cheap, semi-lovely tablesaw that I can borrow. However I have expensive/nice taste and don't really want something lovely & might end up buying a decent/semi-nice one myself anyway. How does this effect my choices/decision in your guys' opinion? It's looking kind of like a dremel router & tablesaw is the right direction? Bear in mind I'm brand spanking new to this handyman wood working stuff. I'm more of a photoshop/designer guy, but I'm very eager to get into building stuff.
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Jul 22, 2011 02:50
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RizieN posted:...and was mainly just wondering that if the Lee Valley set is quality & whether or not I should jump on it now. I'm not familiar with those particular chisels but based on the feedback here I would think hard about jumping on them for that price. Just get the smaller set. You'll use the 3/8 and 3/4 the most, the rest are just handy on the occasion. RizieN posted:re: tracksaw vs tablesaw; Short answer, get the tablesaw. A tracksaw is great if you're cutting sheet goods but for cabinetmaking or general wooodworking you'll find the tablesaw is more versatile. RizieN posted:How hard do you guys think this would be to make, what essential tools would I need, what kind of joints are holding the 'slats' on, and what essential reading do I need to do? Not very. It's not a very complicated piece. Read up on case construction techniques then you can decide how complex you want to make the joinery. I wouldn't recommend tackling that cabinet as a first project, build some smaller furniture first to hone your skills because you will make mistakes, moreso in the beginning. One last thing, building fine furniture will not save you money... you'll need a new tool or three for every project, plus the lumber, it adds up quick.
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Jul 22, 2011 03:20
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RizieN posted:I'm thinking maybe I'd like to make one side a wine chiller, and then just one of the thin drawers at the top, bottle & wine glass storage on the other side. Wine Chillers need a lot of ventilation. If you are going to go with that design I would suggest forgoing the solid sides and leaving the slat sides open on all sides possible. Most of them use fans off the back that are needed to exhaust the hot air.
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Jul 22, 2011 04:13
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I've seen lots of discussions about tracksaws vs. tablesaws and it can be a fairly polarizing topic but the one opinion that no one seems to disagree with is that while either one is good for a variety of things, having both is good for all things  Regardless, something like the Ridgid 4512 might be a good option for you. The price point isn't too bad ($530?) considering you get a solid yet mobile cast iron table with a belt driven 10" blade and a lifetime warranty. Btw, the chisels aren't necessary at all for this project, not even the dadoes. I can see a few spots where a small block plane would be nice though (namely for dealing with the hardwood edging). Incidentally, the way that cabinet is priced you could probably get a decent table saw, the wood and the hardware for a whole lot less than they are asking. Btw, can you use 1/4" shank bits in the dremel router kit? Seems like those lil guys shouldn't be able to handle anything but teeny tiny bits. I'm not sure how that can help on the proposed project.
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Jul 22, 2011 06:00
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RizieN posted:The chisels weren't exactly for this project (though I imagine they'd help a LOT with the Dado joints), but I know that I've been dying to make furniture since I could remember, and that I'd need them eventually, and was mainly just wondering that if the Lee Valley set is quality & whether or not I should jump on it now. The Narex Chisels are excellent. The steel is excellent and they're quite comfortable to use. If I didn't have a decent set of chisels already, I would jump on the current Lee Valley deal.
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Jul 22, 2011 07:16
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On a slightly related note - has anyone built a table or workbench using aluminum extrusions? I was just looking at all the different kinds of eBay and holy cow, it's like being a kid with Legos again.
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Jul 22, 2011 14:25
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TouchyMcFeely posted:On a slightly related note - has anyone built a table or workbench using aluminum extrusions? I was just looking at all the different kinds of eBay and holy cow, it's like being a kid with Legos again. I love aluminum extrusion, we used it a ton at my old job. I wouldn't use it for a woodworking bench for a few reasons. First, it can be expensive because of the brackets needed in assembly. There are some cheaper routes for some of the hardware (buy weld nuts from McMaster Carr for example), but In some cases you'll need brackets and they can be pricey. It can be difficult to find a local source, you can't just pop into the home centers and pick up a few feet of extrusion. Lastly, I don't want my workbench to be made of metal in case I accidentally run a tool into it.
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Jul 23, 2011 01:24
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Has anyone here seen Kagen Schafer's Work before? It's amazing to behold and makes me want to build some awesome stuff immediately. His website is stuck in 1994, but there's enough there to get an idea of what he does. http://www.kagenschaefer.com/ Make sure you check out his Pipe Organ Desk
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Jul 23, 2011 01:41
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Here is my current project, a hand plane. Pretty rough right now I need to do quite a bit of shaping and then finish it but it is coming along pretty well. I need to find a shorter plate iron, but this one works for laying it out. I have to say I really like working with cocobolo. I REALLY wish it wasnt so expensive.   Edit: Holy image sizes! mds2 fucked around with this message at 02:32 on Jul 23, 2011 |
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Jul 23, 2011 02:28
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Looks nice, hope you are wearing a good mask while working with the cocobolo. The dust can be an irritant. Which is also true for most tropical hardwoods.
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Jul 23, 2011 02:40
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Thumposaurus posted:Looks nice, hope you are wearing a good mask while working with the cocobolo. The dust can be an irritant. I've been wearing a mask for sure. Any advice to keep the cocobolo dust from bleeding into the maple when I sand it?
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Jul 23, 2011 02:45
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mds2 posted:I've been wearing a mask for sure. Any advice to keep the cocobolo dust from bleeding into the maple when I sand it? Don't sand it use a cabinet scraper instead. You'll have to learn how to sharpen them and burnish the edge to get the best use out of them. You can use a razor blade as a scraper in a pinch. This is a good little article but they are trying to sell a sharpener through it. You can do the same thing with a screwdriver shank. http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Scrapers/Scraper_Burnisher.html?tab=Instructions#details
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Jul 23, 2011 14:10
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Finished. Going to give this to my grandfather, hes been a woodworker for almost 75 years. Bought his first power miter saw 2 years ago because he couldn't find anyone to sharpen his handsaws anymore. He really likes hand tools. 
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Jul 26, 2011 01:48
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mds2 posted:Finished. Going to give this to my grandfather, hes been a woodworker for almost 75 years. Bought his first power miter saw 2 years ago because he couldn't find anyone to sharpen his handsaws anymore. He really likes hand tools. She's beautiful. How thin are those laminated layers in the middle/edges? Regardless, they're a nice touch.
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Jul 26, 2011 03:29
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Really great work. How tight is the mouth? Got a pic of it, or any detail on how you shaped, fit, fettled that part? Is it adjustable? Cool, and I'd be honored to receive that as a gift (not fishing)
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Jul 26, 2011 04:49
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Cobalt60 posted:Really great work. How tight is the mouth? Got a pic of it, or any detail on how you shaped, fit, fettled that part? Is it adjustable? Here are some pictures of the bottom. I have no idea how big the mouth is, maybe 1/4ish. I just gradually shaved away the bottom on the table saw until the blade slid through and there was enough room to clear and shavings. I have no idea what fettled means, ha! It is adjustable. If you tap the front with a hammer the blade will lower. tap it on the back and it raises. The plans for this came straight out of wood magazine so I cant take an credit for the design, but I do think it turned out really well. Some of the shaping I did on my drill press. The rest was with a small cordless sander. Then I did all of the finish sanding by hand. Edit: these pictures show off the color of the grain a bit more than the previous ones.  
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Jul 26, 2011 05:13
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What would be a good must-have list of hand saws for an aspiring wood worker? I literally do not own a single hand saw. Someone earlier in the thread mentioned the veritas dovetail and crosscut saw pair, are those still a good recommendation? They seem a little pricey. I probably don't need the worlds nicest saws, but I don't want to waste money on junk either. funkatron3000 fucked around with this message at 21:58 on Jul 26, 2011 |
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Jul 26, 2011 21:43
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funkatron3000 posted:What would be a good must-have list of hand saws for an aspiring wood worker? I literally do not own a single hand saw. Veritas is not junk. New handsaws are expensive because they died out for a while and several people tried to start making them again when woodworking became popular again in the 90s or whatever. There are two schools of thought, used or new. Used you get a bargain but you have to sharpen the teeth, get rid of rust, deal with weird old tool issues. New is expensive, but usable generally out of the box. You'll want a crosscut saw and a rip saw, and a dovetail saw if you do delicate work. You can get them for like 10-15$ used each, but you'll likely need to resharpen them, which will teach you LOADS if you do it yourself.
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Jul 27, 2011 04:56
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mds2 posted:Finished. Going to give this to my grandfather, Beautiful. Which issue of Wood was that plan? funkatron3000 posted:What would be a good must-have list of hand saws for an aspiring wood worker? I literally do not own a single hand saw. http://www.popularwoodworking.com/techniques/bowsaw_basics You can buy a variety of blades and make your own bow. They cut easier than any other hand saw I've used.
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Jul 27, 2011 08:23
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Definitely not saying veritas is junk, more on the too nice side. Thanks for the info so far. Any thoughts on japanese saws? Edit: Found that GEMorris post that listed out a bunch of hand tools http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2819334&pagenumber=31&perpage=40#post374859819 funkatron3000 fucked around with this message at 14:13 on Jul 27, 2011 |
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Jul 27, 2011 12:30
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wormil posted:Beautiful. Which issue of Wood was that plan? The current one, which I think is September 2011.
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Jul 27, 2011 14:48
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I just enrolled in some introductory woodworking classes at a local community college. I have exactly zero experience with the profession at this point, but it's something that I've always wanted to try and now, after having been out of the country for the past five years, I have the opportunity. It looks like this will be the book that we're using: Taunton's Complete Illustrated Guide to Working with Wood - http://www.amazon.com/Complete-Illustrated-Furniture-Cabinet-Construction/dp/1561584029/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1311788064&sr=1-1 Does anyone have any experience with this book or it it's any good? Along those lines, are there any books that people here would recommend to a complete newbie?
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Jul 27, 2011 18:54
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| # ? May 28, 2024 16:53 |
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Your link goes to "Complete Illustrate guide to Furniture and Cabinet Construction" so I'm not sure If my comment is for the correct book. I found Tauntons Complete Illustrated Guide To Woodworking ( http://www.amazon.com/Tauntons-Complete-Illustrated-Guide-Woodworking/dp/B003NHR66I/ref=sr_1_3?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1311791671&sr=1-3 ) at a thrift store and it covers all the basics with nice pictures. I don't know if I would pay full price, since all the same stuff can be found on the internet, but it was certainly worth the $2 I paid. If your class will be using it and referring to it, I think it is worthwhile.
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Jul 27, 2011 19:38
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