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Sagebrush posted:I call em "18-wheelers" Even the ones with 22 wheels?
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Dec 23, 2016 06:53
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| # ? May 25, 2024 20:41 |
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The little shunter truck at work has 4 wheels, and it frequently moves empty tandem (2 axle) trailers. That's 12, but it also moves tri-axle trailers, so that's 16, and quads make for 20. Now the trucks that actually do the pickup and dropoff are "normal" for semis around here, so 10 wheels, thus 18 with a tandem, but 22 with a tri, and 26 with a quad. Here we call them semi's, or just trucks, trailered or not, but tractor trailer is one I also hear from time to time.
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Dec 23, 2016 07:09
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Wife calls them "fuckin truckins" because they're always slower and need to be passed.
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Dec 23, 2016 07:36
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They're just trucks, unless I'm talking to normies and need to specify, then they're semis.  e: on the interstate I don't gently caress with them because they're just doing their job, but they just put a new truck terminal in my town and the new traffic is hellish. solarNativity fucked around with this message at 15:19 on Dec 23, 2016 |
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Dec 23, 2016 15:15
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I've always heard "tractor-trailers"
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Dec 23, 2016 17:30
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They're lorries here. Or artics. Or HGVs. Sometimes wagons. The official terminology is LGV, Large Goods Vehicle.TotalLossBrain posted:Please, how are you ever going to find another truck with identical but reverse damage?
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Dec 23, 2016 18:54
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No one would ever Weld the halves of two cars together  They don't just keep smashed cars around to cut pieces off of and weld together  In actual horrible mechanical failures news, I saw this fine automobile shambling down the highway on Wednesday on my way to the junkyard where I saw those halfcars. It's not visible in the picture, but the left front CV shaft was dangling on the lower control arm and not spinning at all, I suspect the right one was too. Who knows why the suspension is so hosed and the camber is so far off, my guess is extremely bad balljoints and bushings but it could be a bent upper control arm or something I guess? Whatever the problem, I mostly focused on putting it in my rearview as soon as I could and then getting far away from it.  It looked a lot more hosed in person. 
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Dec 23, 2016 19:39
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Memento posted:You can answer your question with the following 100% true statement: I have a '17 Escape and switching to the Focus chasis was the right thing for Ford to do. First bit of true Calgary winter driving and it's everything I wanted in a Focus Wagon, plus you can accidentally put it into oversteer and casually power out of it as it moves the tourqe to the front wheels. Getting something other than all seasons for next winter though.
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Dec 23, 2016 20:33
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https://twitter.com/polscotrpu/status/812556728898359296 Ooft.
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Dec 24, 2016 11:14
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Hey man, it's raining, the springs just wanted to stay dry for once.
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Dec 24, 2016 11:25
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stump posted:
And more further down the page! https://twitter.com/polscotrpu/status/780525942670229504 I've not seen one of those before 
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Dec 24, 2016 14:18
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2006 GMC Truck 101k miles on it. We get a little snow a few times each year do not live in a wet climate and we do not salt the roads here. http://i.imgur.com/94Sl2Fg.mp4
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Dec 24, 2016 16:53
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B4Ctom1 posted:2006 GMC Truck 101k miles on it. We get a little snow a few times each year do not live in a wet climate and we do not salt the roads here. I didn't get my eyes off of your text and onto the gif fast enough to see him wiggle the first wheel, so I'm watching it, looking for something wrong, not seeing it, wondering why you posted it, and then he wiggles the other wheel. 
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Dec 24, 2016 16:56
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B4Ctom1 posted:2006 GMC Truck 101k miles on it. We get a little snow a few times each year do not live in a wet climate and we do not salt the roads here. Sweet jesus that's terrifying.
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Dec 24, 2016 19:00
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When I worked at the shop we had a Forester come in because the ABS light was on. Driving it around to the bay something didn't feel or sound right. This thing was handling sketchy in the PARKING LOT. Turns out a rear wheelbearing was so loose the tone ring was hitting the ABS sensor. I have no idea how people are this stupid...
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Dec 24, 2016 21:08
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Phanatic posted:Not failures as such, but a bunch of poo poo gets broken in awesome ways: Bringing this back to the front just for how loving pumped the guys playing the War Boys are.
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Dec 24, 2016 22:24
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Liquid Communism posted:Bringing this back to the front just for how loving pumped the guys playing the War Boys are. Is there anyone in this forum that wouldn't be a war boy? Go ahead. Out yourselves.
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Dec 24, 2016 22:40
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E: gently caress, wrong thread.
Naturally Selected fucked around with this message at 23:25 on Dec 24, 2016 |
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Dec 24, 2016 22:55
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MrYenko posted:Is there anyone in this forum that wouldn't be a war boy? My wife has forbidden me on pain of pain from shaving my head. Worth it.
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Dec 25, 2016 01:20
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Yeah, that generation goes through front wheel bearings like candy. Usually you don't notice until you're swapping wheels or the ABS light comes on. That can be a fun one, ABS system going haywire because the sensor is literally running into the tone wheel.
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Dec 25, 2016 03:57
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And if you've got cold solder on the $1500 ABS module in your $1000 truck (they all do prior to '02, and if you buy one from a hillbilly there's enough mud around that you can't really take the top off to fix it even after multiple washes) you may have no indicator those bearings have gone until a wheel falls off (the rest of the front end is usually too far into its 50k mile replacement interval to give you enough feedback to tell you something's wrong). This cold solder also results in an always-on brake warning light (assuming your cluster has enough life left to indicate anything but the price of tea in China) which means you can lose hardlines to rust (which happens all the time) and have no idea until that panic stop results in an awfully low pedal that's now sinking constantly. The front ABS sensors also like to corrode up and, if the module does function, it just thinks that wheel is locked up regardless of what's actually going on and can leave you with no brakes that way. Not that you'll have time between fuel pump failures to get going fast enough to need to stop ever. And even if you do need to stop sometime, the parking shoes in the hat drums are perpetually about to fall off their hilariously inadequate mounting tabs and jam up so you've just got to wait for that inevitability to hopefully grind you to a screeching halt before you hit anything. But when you finally get sick of all this, the leak-prone EVAP system leaves enough fuel fumes lingering about to make torching the truck rather easy at least.
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Dec 25, 2016 08:19
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So how long did you have yours?
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Dec 25, 2016 08:35
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Shrugs Not Drugs posted:...if the module does function, it just thinks that wheel is locked up regardless of what's actually going on and can leave you with no brakes that way. This is one of the more terrifying ABS failure modes I've heard of. I (apparently naively) assumed companies would design the system to let you figure out braking yourself, rather than the car refusing to apply the brakes altogether. 
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Dec 25, 2016 09:31
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Yeeeep, is right. I've had it on a car before, and it was only one front caliper that did it, so braking was randomly quite interesting.
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Dec 25, 2016 13:52
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One Day Fish Sale posted:because the sensor is literally running into the tone wheel. I wish I could post the pictures but I got to climb into and replace the Phase marker (Speed probe) on a 1500 HP pump the other day. Something must have wobbled because about 1/8" of the tip was ground away and there was a lovely ring machined into the shaft.
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Dec 25, 2016 16:39
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Shrugs Not Drugs posted:And if you've got cold solder on the $1500 ABS module in your $1000 truck (they all do prior to '02, and if you buy one from a hillbilly there's enough mud around that you can't really take the top off to fix it even after multiple washes) you may have no indicator those bearings have gone until a wheel falls off (the rest of the front end is usually too far into its 50k mile replacement interval to give you enough feedback to tell you something's wrong). This cold solder also results in an always-on brake warning light (assuming your cluster has enough life left to indicate anything but the price of tea in China) which means you can lose hardlines to rust (which happens all the time) and have no idea until that panic stop results in an awfully low pedal that's now sinking constantly. The front ABS sensors also like to corrode up and, if the module does function, it just thinks that wheel is locked up regardless of what's actually going on and can leave you with no brakes that way. Not that you'll have time between fuel pump failures to get going fast enough to need to stop ever. And even if you do need to stop sometime, the parking shoes in the hat drums are perpetually about to fall off their hilariously inadequate mounting tabs and jam up so you've just got to wait for that inevitability to hopefully grind you to a screeching halt before you hit anything. It's stuff like this that reaffirms my choice to keep my 2000 Silverado and keep it running. Like, Chevys aren't perfect, but at least I know about it's problems.
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Dec 25, 2016 18:27
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Johnny Aztec posted:It's stuff like this that reaffirms my choice to keep my 2000 Silverado and keep it running. bad news buddy. Timken says its the same cassette bearing.
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Dec 25, 2016 18:39
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cursedshitbox posted:bad news buddy. Timken says its the same cassette bearing. I replaced my bearings a couple months ago. There was plenty of signaling there long before it'd have fallen off. The only brake problem it had, was the front driver side ABS sensor needed replacing, so sometimes when I was coming to a slow stop (under 10 MPH) the brakes would lock up and nearly sent me into traffic a couple times(Yes, that's been replaced)
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Dec 25, 2016 19:38
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One Day Fish Sale posted:Yeah, that generation goes through front wheel bearings like candy. Usually you don't notice until you're swapping wheels or the ABS light comes on. That can be a fun one, ABS system going haywire because the sensor is literally running into the tone wheel. They don't if you take out the ABS sensor and grease the bearings. I've run those trucks (and vans) for years, never had a wheel bearing go. The front end on my '04 2500HD got replaced.... at 170K miles, and it was all OEM parts we removed.
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Dec 27, 2016 04:11
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sharkytm posted:They don't if you take out the ABS sensor and grease the bearings. I've run those trucks (and vans) for years, never had a wheel bearing go. The front end on my '04 2500HD got replaced.... at 170K miles, and it was all OEM parts we removed. 2WD? My '02 Tahoe 4WD was unit bearings.
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Dec 27, 2016 04:24
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4WD. http://www.silveradosierra.com/how-to-articles/how-to-pack-your-sealed-hubs-t18734.html http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=375102 Countless other threads. There's very little grease in them to start, and adding some every 15-20k seems to extend their lives.
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Dec 27, 2016 15:56
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Shrugs Not Drugs posted:And if you've got cold solder on the $1500 ABS module in your $1000 truck (they all do prior to '02, and if you buy one from a hillbilly there's enough mud around that you can't really take the top off to fix it even after multiple washes) you may have no indicator those bearings have gone until a wheel falls off (the rest of the front end is usually too far into its 50k mile replacement interval to give you enough feedback to tell you something's wrong). This cold solder also results in an always-on brake warning light (assuming your cluster has enough life left to indicate anything but the price of tea in China) which means you can lose hardlines to rust (which happens all the time) and have no idea until that panic stop results in an awfully low pedal that's now sinking constantly. The front ABS sensors also like to corrode up and, if the module does function, it just thinks that wheel is locked up regardless of what's actually going on and can leave you with no brakes that way. Not that you'll have time between fuel pump failures to get going fast enough to need to stop ever. And even if you do need to stop sometime, the parking shoes in the hat drums are perpetually about to fall off their hilariously inadequate mounting tabs and jam up so you've just got to wait for that inevitability to hopefully grind you to a screeching halt before you hit anything. This describes my father's Yukon to a 'T'... every single word of it 
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Dec 27, 2016 17:02
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sharkytm posted:4WD. Huh, cool! I've had plenty vehicles with sealed-bearing hubs but never considered preventative maintenance on them. I have a 2WD GMT900 and should probably think about checking those bearings.
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Dec 27, 2016 19:34
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On the very large disc harrow at the farm, the bearings are sealed but each has a small hole drilled in the outer race that line up with grease zerks on the bearing carriers, making them regreasable. Wouldn't it be easier to remove the unit bearing, drill a small hole in wide part of the outer race, and use a needle to regrease instead of constantly rotating the hub and then cleaning out the ABS sensor hole? When reinstalling I'd just make sure the hole is covered to prevent the grease from escaping through it.
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Dec 27, 2016 20:14
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Fermented Tinal posted:On the very large disc harrow at the farm, the bearings are sealed but each has a small hole drilled in the outer race that line up with grease zerks on the bearing carriers, making them regreasable. Each side only look me about 20 minutes. Removing the bearing would take longer. I didn't even bother trying to rotate the hub and get grease into every spot. Just a splooge, rotate 1/2 turn, splooge, pop the sensor back in. The Sensor hole is never dirty, the sensor seals it. Just an air blast around the sensor prior to loosening the retaining screw was good enough.
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Dec 27, 2016 21:14
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sharkytm posted:Each side only look me about 20 minutes. Removing the bearing would take longer. I didn't even bother trying to rotate the hub and get grease into every spot. Just a splooge, rotate 1/2 turn, splooge, pop the sensor back in. The Sensor hole is never dirty, the sensor seals it. Just an air blast around the sensor prior to loosening the retaining screw was good enough. Someone in one of the linked threads mentioned a tool made to fit in the sensor hole that seals with o-rings to make it even easier. Basically a dowel with a hole drilled through it, a zerk on one end, and o-rings. Presumably a flange or ridge to stop it from going through. Would be fairly easy to make.
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Dec 28, 2016 00:57
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My front hubs failed at 95k on my 2006 2500HD. I bought the cheapest ones off ebay and they lasted until the truck was totaled at 165k ish. Was a super easy job and they gave plenty of warning there was a problem. The truck besides that gave my almost no issues. It needed a pair of thermostats and a fuel filter head rebuild a couple months before it's death. The only electrical issue it ever had was a ground for the power drivers seat.
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Dec 28, 2016 01:11
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My blower resistor burned out, half the bulbs in the instruments were bad, and it rusted out the brake lines. Not bad for 175k.
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Dec 28, 2016 04:29
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Make sure you pick out all of the metal shavings. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dQVZklvlU7Y
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Dec 28, 2016 06:20
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| # ? May 25, 2024 20:41 |
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FogHelmut posted:Make sure you pick out all of the metal shavings. To be fair, I hate and distrust ball joints that don't have zerks. Part of me says a few metal shavings aren't going to make them worse (much.) Another part recoils in horror.
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Dec 28, 2016 20:33
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