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I dunno. The Lexus thread kinda looks like it, but I think that's just one poster's project.
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Feb 6, 2021 04:57
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There isn't that I'm aware of. Make one!
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Feb 6, 2021 05:00
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Put this in the OP, OP: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HZbQ3lTObas
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Feb 6, 2021 09:22
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ryanrs posted:I only ever offroad alone, so I definitely prefer something reliable. Your problem definitely sounds like one with a Toyota-shaped solution. I'm not sure it counts, but I'm thinking about either a Ranger or a Hilux at the moment, so a truck thread would be something I'd love to follow along with.
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Feb 6, 2021 09:30
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^^^ I'd read that thread.
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Feb 6, 2021 14:27
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I would also like a truck thread to talk about the stupid things I am doing to destroy my truck.
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Feb 6, 2021 15:32
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Sorry for the long post but it doesn't seem like threads are made for individual tech support. I'm looking for help with my 2008 Prius 12V battery. Last summer, I accidentally left the dome light on overnight and had to get a jump. Since quarantine started, I basically just drive to the grocery store or Costco a few times per week. They're only 10 minutes away, and maybe once a month I'll drive for 30 minutes. I've since learned that the Prius charges the 12V battery slowly, so this driving pattern could be causing it to drain. A couple weeks ago, my Prius started doing this thing where, when I went to turn it on, it would go into accessory mode (I think?) with an orange LED on the power button, and then I'd have to "turn it on" again to fully boot up the computer and have the engine start. I was fine to run errands and there were no issues starting the car at the store. After a few days of this, I checked the battery in Diagnostic mode and it showed something like 9.6V, so last Sunday, I planned on driving my car to an Autozone or something to get a new battery. Unfortunately, my car got stuck in a loop where it wouldn't fully boot up but also wouldn't fully shut down. This scared me since I wasn't sure if the hybrid battery was being drained and possibly damaged. A neighbor gave me a jump, but my car displayed an error about the parking brake and the engine never turned on. At least I was able to get it fully turned off. On Tuesday, I checked the battery voltage at the jump point under the hood using a multimeter and it read 8.3V. Yesterday, I went to see if I could open the hatch since it's electronic. The battery was too drained, so I manually released the hatch and kept it propped open. Today, I finally got around to removing the battery. I planned to charge it with a neighbor's Century wall charger but the voltage was down to 4.5V. I'm hoping the drain since Tuesday has to do with leaving the hatch open for 24 hours (and not a damaged battery) since the sensor was probably trying to send a signal to the dashboard to light up "door open". Even though the charger says 10A mode for car batteries, I had to use 2A mode since the battery says 4.5A max. I went to check after an hour and the charger said 6A. I disconnected everything and the battery read 12.4V. Surely this can't be right. I asked Priuschat about all this but they're very conservative so they said that due to my dome light drain last summer, the battery will never hold 100% charge again and I should just get a new one. I'm reluctant to do so because I just use my car for errands and a new battery is $200+: $200 Duralast: https://www.autozone.com/batteries-...-cca/766475_0_0 $220 DieHard: https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/diehard-platinum-agm-battery-group-size-s46b24r-410-cca-s46b24r/10700314-P $232 Optima Yellow Top: https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NBPN9951HEV?partTypeName=Battery+-+Automotive&impressionRank=2&keywordInput=battery Thoughts? I'm not charging the battery at the moment to see if the voltage quickly drops by itself, which presumably would be a sign that it definitely needs to be replaced. I bought the car used about 20 months ago to replace a previous 2008 Prius that was rear-ended and totaled. This one had 90k miles and the battery looks to have a manufacture date of 8 July 2011? 
Josh Lyman fucked around with this message at 02:59 on Feb 7, 2021 |
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Feb 7, 2021 02:44
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e: dunno
ryanrs fucked around with this message at 02:58 on Feb 7, 2021 |
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Feb 7, 2021 02:56
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2008 Ford F150 with 4.6l engine ~130k Truck doesn't start. It turns over and runs with enough starting fluid. Pretty sure that means fuel is not making it to the engine, is there anything easy to try before getting it towed to a shop and having them just fix whatever the issue is? This is in northern Indiana where is is getting down to near 0℉ most nights, and this started after i filled up the gas tank. When the truck was warm it ran just fine, but after sitting overnight it doesn't start.
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Feb 7, 2021 03:10
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Can you hear the fuel pump turn on when you turn on the car (not start it)?
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Feb 7, 2021 03:13
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No sound from anywhere near the fuel tank, there is a noise from behind the dash that could be a pump.
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Feb 7, 2021 03:21
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(fuel pump should be inside the tank, but this is where someone who actually knows abut F150s should take over. but maybe check the fuel pump fuse and relay)
ryanrs fucked around with this message at 03:48 on Feb 7, 2021 |
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Feb 7, 2021 03:44
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Josh Lyman posted:... You bought a great car with an old battery. A ten-year-old battery owes the world nothing. Buy a new battery.
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Feb 7, 2021 05:04
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toastedyou55228 posted:2008 Ford F150 with 4.6l engine ~130k Ah, rust belt city. Check to see if your FPDM is a corroded mess. About 4:45 in. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TZEtPNnMi3U
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Feb 7, 2021 05:30
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C-Bangin' it 
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Hey Melbourne goons, I'm looking for recommendations for a decent painter in Melbourne to have a crack at two-tone for our 1960 Bedford CA. We've got a sign-writer lined up but he's on board to do the trimming etc after the bulk is completed. If anyone knows of a good shop or someone who'll do a good job please let me know, the closer to Coburg the better as most the panels are off for painting so I'll have to organise a tow.
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Feb 7, 2021 06:43
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PainterofCrap posted:You bought a great car with an old battery. A ten-year-old battery owes the world nothing. Yes... That said, even though it's never going to be 100% capacity, charging it will probably keep it useful for quite a while still if you want to cheap out. Speaking from experience here, I've ran mine flat 3 times now, once with the dome light, once with an incorrectly installed radio, and just now from sitting in the cold for a long time while so I used another car. I charged it again and it's been fine since. It'll probably fail to star the car again sooner rather than later so you're really only delaying the inevitable, but I also didn't want to she'll out for a new one when the car just mostly sits parked.
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Feb 7, 2021 10:00
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If the battery went down to 4.5V that easily it's hosed. I put led dome lights in my cars cause I kept killing batteries leaving them on 🙃
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Feb 7, 2021 10:12
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Josh Lyman posted:Sorry for the long post but it doesn't seem like threads are made for individual tech support. I'm looking for help with my 2008 Prius 12V battery. You need to use a charger that supports AGM batteries. They use different voltages and act differently than a normal flooded car battery. The S46B24R you have is a flat plate AGM battery. It's not the same as a gel-cell - this is absorbed glass mat. The Optima uses the same technology, but in a round, less space-efficient group of six cells. Optima hasn't been the same since they were bought by Johnson Controls and production moved out of Colorado. The same company that made your charger makes an advanced high frequency charger that even has a de-sulphating charge function that can bring back some almost dead batteries: https://www.centurytool.net/K3234_1_Century_10_6_2_Amp_12V_24V_Battery_Charger_p/k3234-1.htm I just replaced the S34B20RJ in my 2013 Prius C with 70k on it. I bought the replacement at O’Reilly Auto Parts for $199. I probably could have made it last a few more years, but this car is only getting driven 3 or 4 times a month. It always jumped immediately with a tiny li-ion jump box thing, but jumping a Prius is always an experience, especially if someone wants to "help".
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Feb 7, 2021 16:54
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Josh Lyman posted:This one had 90k miles and the battery looks to have a manufacture date of 8 July 2011? Replace it. You're going to nuke the charging circuitry in the car if you keep trying to drive it with this one.
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Feb 7, 2021 19:03
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toastedyou55228 posted:2008 Ford F150 with 4.6l engine ~130k Try checking the fuel pimp fuse(s) and/or relays. Also it could be that something is frozen. If it happened after you filled up, maybe you got some water in the tank from the gas station and you now have frozen fuel lines.
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Feb 7, 2021 23:29
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wesleywillis posted:fuel pimp 
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Feb 7, 2021 23:39
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This was everything I wanted in my tank
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Feb 7, 2021 23:44
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Weird one I can't figure out, replaced my front calipers, bled them clear and stiff, and now they're making a squishy sound at the calipers No fluid is coming out of anywhere, but it sure sounds like there is
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Feb 8, 2021 01:32
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The Door Frame posted:Weird one I can't figure out, replaced my front calipers, bled them clear and stiff, and now they're making a squishy sound at the calipers If the pedal is stiff, and there are no visible leaks then....... Its probably fine? Maybe its a sound you just never noticed before?
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Feb 8, 2021 01:55
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wesleywillis posted:If the pedal is stiff, and there are no visible leaks then....... Its probably fine? Hopefully?
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Feb 8, 2021 02:09
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The Door Frame posted:Weird one I can't figure out, replaced my front calipers, bled them clear and stiff, and now they're making a squishy sound at the calipers Take it out on the freeway and gently ride the brakes for a quarter-mile. Sound may abate once they're bedded in.
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Feb 8, 2021 04:09
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Update on my 2008 Prius 12V battery situation. I thought about installing the old battery with a 11.8V "charge" to drive to Autozone and swap in the parking lot, but I was afraid of the car going into another boot loop where it doesn't fully turn on and doesn't turn off. I bit the bullet and paid the $20 round trip Lyft fare. The battery at Autozone tested 12.68V through pin holes in the plastic terminal caps, and it had a 2/21 sticker which seems a bit of a stretch considering it was only 7 days into February (maybe that's when Autozone received it, not when it was manufactured). It was supposed to be $200 + tax but I brought up a $10 off code from the website which wouldn't go through. The cashier gave me a 10% discount but included some (useless) terminal protectors for $4.50 which seemed like an upsell but also it seemed like he would remove the 10% discount otherwise? I didn't quite follow, but the final price was $195 which is fine by me. Anyway, I installed the battery without any issues and tried not to overtighten the bolts with my socket wrench, though I probably did on the metal bar that holds down the battery.  There were some warning lights that came on due to the battery change but they went away after a few engine starts, so everything looks good. Now I just have to remember to make a longer drive semi-regularly to charge up the battery.  Thanks goons! 
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Feb 8, 2021 07:04
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Realistically how often should we be changing the battery anyway? The internet seems to think 3-5 years but I'm sure my current one is like 6-7 years and doesn't seem to have issues. Well, it does seem to turn over once or twice more than it should but always starts and hasn't needed a jump yet.
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Feb 8, 2021 07:35
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Outrail posted:Realistically how often should we be changing the battery anyway? The internet seems to think 3-5 years but I'm sure my current one is like 6-7 years and doesn't seem to have issues. Well, it does seem to turn over once or twice more than it should but always starts and hasn't needed a jump yet. It depends a lot on the environment and use, my last one lasted eight or nine years but I think three to five is more common in very hot or cold areas.
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Feb 8, 2021 08:06
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Josh Lyman posted:it had a 2/21 sticker which seems a bit of a stretch considering it was only 7 days into February (maybe that's when Autozone received it, not when it was manufactured). fwiw that probably means week 2 of the year, so your battery would have been manufactured in January.
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Feb 8, 2021 09:07
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Outrail posted:Realistically how often should we be changing the battery anyway? The internet seems to think 3-5 years but I'm sure my current one is like 6-7 years and doesn't seem to have issues. Well, it does seem to turn over once or twice more than it should but always starts and hasn't needed a jump yet. I change them out once they become a jump start nuisance. No reason to do it early on a schedule unless it's an emergency vehicle that absolutely HAS to start on a moments notice every single time. Two of mine have marginal batteries in them that went from "I really should replace those soon" status to decent reliability by adding 15 dollar 5 watt solar trickle chargers to those trucks. Haven't had to jump them since then.
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Feb 8, 2021 12:26
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Outrail posted:Realistically how often should we be changing the battery anyway? The internet seems to think 3-5 years but I'm sure my current one is like 6-7 years and doesn't seem to have issues. Well, it does seem to turn over once or twice more than it should but always starts and hasn't needed a jump yet. Like some others mentioned, depends on environment, and importantly, the quality of the battery. The original battery in my Corolla gave me over 9 years of service and once during an oil change or something, the dealer gave me some kind of inspection report where they said the "battery was at ~70%" or some poo poo. I figured that was about time to get a new one, so I picked one up at the parts counter and brought it home and changed it. I probably could have gotten another year out of it, but I decided that it was time to let the original one retire.
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Feb 8, 2021 14:17
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Time for a new battery or solar trickle project. Going through my paperwork it looks like the previous owner bought an expensive deep cycle marine battery, but switched it out with the older cheap dying one before he sold it to me. 
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Feb 8, 2021 15:12
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wesleywillis posted:Like some others mentioned, depends on environment, and importantly, the quality of the battery. The original battery in my Corolla gave me over 9 years of service and once during an oil change or something, the dealer gave me some kind of inspection report where they said the "battery was at ~70%" or some poo poo. I am a fan of this as well. Dead batteries are not pleasant discoveries, and through the life of the car you'll buy what, two, maybe three batteries? If you can afford it, get a replacement when it's old, but still kicking. Waiting a year doesn't do much for your long term finances. And of course I waited for my wife's battery to die completely before I replaced it. Luckily it died peacefully in its sleep at my house.
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Feb 8, 2021 17:00
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I keep a battery jumper in the back seat, if I have to jump it without a good reason (like, I left the lights on all night) then it's time to switch. Plus I can act like a big man when helping people out in parking lots. I think it's a good system.
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Feb 8, 2021 17:57
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Outrail posted:I keep a battery jumper in the back seat, if I have to jump it without a good reason (like, I left the lights on all night) then it's time to switch. Plus I can act like a big man when helping people out in parking lots. I think it's a good system. It still took about 2-3 years for my first one to swell up and be a problem, but it was enough to make me put it next to my keys and carry it out to the car each trip rather than leave it there. I'd hate to see a car burn down because that battery went pop. I do think it's fun when someone asks you to jump their car and you just walk over instead of bringing your car - it seems like a lot of people don't know about the existence of these.
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Feb 8, 2021 18:34
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spankmeister posted:fwiw that probably means week 2 of the year, so your battery would have been manufactured in January. The sticker does mean February 2021 because thats what the battery company cares about, when it was sent to the store. The battery was made either a week or two ago, or its an older battery (no more than 6 months) that tested good and had a new label put on it. Source: I work at a battery store.
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Feb 8, 2021 18:40
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I just replaced the battery in my truck after roll starting it three times in four days. It seemed excessive. Turned out the battery was eight years old and tested 68 CCA of a rated 700, so I guess it was time.
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Feb 8, 2021 18:54
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Krakkles posted:I did/do this as well, but a caution: If you actually leave it in the car, the batteries in those don't like the temperatures they're likely to see. wtf, I'm not carrying that thing back and forth every time I want to drive around. It's currently ~25C so I should probably put it inside.
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Feb 8, 2021 18:57
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Rexxed posted:It depends a lot on the environment and use, my last one lasted eight or nine years but I think three to five is more common in very hot or cold areas. The running joke among car people when I lived in Phoenix was to buy a battery with a 4 year replacement guarantee. It'll be the last battery you ever buy. Extreme heat kills them pretty quickly. I'm in the San Antonio area now, and I get maybe 4 years out of them. The last 3 batteries all dropped a cell though. One day its fine, the next 10.8V is all you're getting. All Ford Motorcraft batteries as well.
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Feb 8, 2021 19:10
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