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No welder, and I'm not sure I can get two nuts on it with good thread engagement. Is it useful to hit the flange with a map torch first? Is an impact wrench better for this than a breaker bar?
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Feb 22, 2021 22:38
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It's all witchcraft and might or might not work, but torching just the flange while keeping heat off the stud, then sticking a candle right into the joint between the two and repeating, then turning the stud while the flange is still hot as gently caress is probably your best bet. Oh, and if there's any threaded length sticking out the back of the flange, do yourself a favor and wire brush or wire wheel it clean as best you can and soak it with your witches brew of taste. I'm not sure it'll help it break free - never had any luck with that - but it will help keep it moving once it does.
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Feb 22, 2021 22:41
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Hmm, instead of buying a bernzomatic for $50, I could prob pay $50 to a mobile mechanic/welder to weld the nut.
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Feb 22, 2021 22:51
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Think of all the things you could bathe in fire
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Feb 22, 2021 23:04
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You're 99% sure going to need to apply heat to get that out.
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Feb 22, 2021 23:09
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n+1 for the loosening effects of fire. A lovely Coleman torch thing works wonders. While we're talking about recovery gear: Had anyone used maxtraxx or whatever the popular brand is? I've used them in soft sand before but I feel in thick mud they're just going to get in the way. $500 feels like a bunch of woo and I'm sure you could cobble together something with similar utility for way less.
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Feb 22, 2021 23:16
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Nthing the "torch that poo poo" sentiment. If you CAN get a nut on the broken end, and secured to it (red loctite?) then taking an impact to it is the right way. The impacts help break poo poo loose more so than the just the brute turning force of whatever size breaker bar you can get on it which tends to just twist things till they break (in half, not loose).
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Feb 22, 2021 23:17
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I'm picturing you feeling around in knee-deep mud trying to find your $300 traction boards. e: I use these $100 knock-offs. They are probably not quite as good as the $$$ maxtrax, and I would assume they turn into useless brittle garbage in really cold weather. I just have them for sand. ryanrs fucked around with this message at 23:22 on Feb 22, 2021 |
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Feb 22, 2021 23:19
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Outrail posted:n+1 for the loosening effects of fire. A lovely Coleman torch thing works wonders. The only time I've used them in thick mud was when I tried to self-rescue this thing.  ryanrs posted:I'm picturing you feeling around in knee-deep mud trying to find your $300 traction boards. One of them is still in there, yes.
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Feb 22, 2021 23:25
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Memento posted:The only time I've used them in thick mud was when I tried to self-rescue this thing. Did they work?
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Feb 22, 2021 23:35
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ryanrs posted:Did they work? Nope! Had to get dragged out. When I tried to use them, one of them was speared so hard into the mud that I never got it out. We had a set with one broken one, so we made a whole set using the second one from my set. I ended up figuring out that I had driven into an unmarked sump that had been filled with loose dirt. I've used maxtrax several times to fish myself out of loose sand, driving Landcruisers and ATVs, but never had any luck using them in mud.
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Feb 22, 2021 23:40
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Seems like the general consensus online is pads are pretty great. Since I plan on doing dumb things this summer I'll get another pair. They all seem pretty similar so I expect the cheap ones are more brittle and prone to explode in sub-zero temps. The BUNKER INDUST pads look okay and have an inbuilt jack stand which is great because jacking yourself off in deep sand while people are standing around laughing is pretty awkward.
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Feb 22, 2021 23:45
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Having the jackstand in the middle of them is great for changing a wheel even if you're not stuck. I've worked in areas where there's a very high chance of getting a rock through a tyre before, where we would do 4-5 changes a week, and having a solid base for your jack is a massive bonus.
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Feb 22, 2021 23:51
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Now I just need a decent roo jack and orthodontic insurance. e: roo jack = Hi lift jack/tooth removal aparatus Outrail fucked around with this message at 01:00 on Feb 23, 2021 |
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Feb 23, 2021 00:10
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I don't know how well it would work in mud, but I feel like for icy/snowy conditions, some pieces of raised expanded metal would work quite good. Probably be cheap and fairly light, depending on how big the pieces are.
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Feb 23, 2021 00:14
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e: nvm
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Feb 23, 2021 00:34
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Are modern LED bulbs more or less problematic with regard to heat than modern halogens? I know that when LEDs first started becoming popular, they were basically not generating heat, but the latest generations sure seem to make a ton. Particularly, I'm looking at swapping out some fog light bulbs (they're stock foglights out of a 96-99 Lexus ES, but they're, uh, mounted somewhere else) for LEDs, both because I like LEDs in general and because I've had a ton of seemingly heat related failures of the halogen bulbs that I run now. I've gotten in the habit of only turning them on at speed, because sitting for any length of time (I.e., at a stoplight) seems to significantly shorten their life. edit: It's bad enough that I just buy them in bulk lol
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Feb 23, 2021 00:46
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Krakkles posted:Are modern LED bulbs more or less problematic with regard to heat than modern halogens? Not an expert but they generate less heat, but the electronics are much more sensitive to heat issues. Those aftermarket bulbs usually have big heat sinks on them.
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Feb 23, 2021 00:53
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Charles posted:Not an expert but they generate less heat, but the electronics are much more sensitive to heat issues. Those aftermarket bulbs usually have big heat sinks on them. Thank you!
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Feb 23, 2021 00:55
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Krakkles posted:Yeah, that's my other worry, I'll have to find bulbs without the huge heat sinks, since the housings really aren't very big around the bulbs. Maybe I just stick with Halogens. I still have a few left. Incidentally I was thinking of upgrading my highbeams, but haven't researched what's out there yet. I know it changes the beam pattern, but I'm not super worried about that when I don't use it around traffic.
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Feb 23, 2021 01:05
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ryanrs posted:
There's more than enough meat there for a stud extractor: https://www.amazon.com/ARES-70016-Damaged-Extractor-Removes/dp/B01GKEBG9I (get it somewhere else, though)
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Feb 23, 2021 01:17
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Charles posted:Incidentally I was thinking of upgrading my highbeams, but haven't researched what's out there yet. I know it changes the beam pattern, but I'm not super worried about that when I don't use it around traffic. I mean, it matters if it's pointing your light at the cows in the pasture or at Mars instead of the road in front of you.
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Feb 23, 2021 02:30
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I have probably the stupidest car question. Mine had been sitting for a couple of months and the battery died. I got it jumped yesterday and drove it around for about 45 minutes. The BCAA guy who helped me did a battery test and said it should be OK if I drive it a few times this week. I went to do it tonight and it wouldn't start. Dashboard and cabin lights came on, but the engine wouldn't turn over. Is it a battery problem? Maybe a fuel problem? I haven't bought gas since last October. What's the recommended course of action here? It's a beater 2005 Accord if it makes any difference.
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Feb 23, 2021 06:48
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gloom posted:I have probably the stupidest car question. Mine had been sitting for a couple of months and the battery died. I got it jumped yesterday and drove it around for about 45 minutes. The BCAA guy who helped me did a battery test and said it should be OK if I drive it a few times this week. I went to do it tonight and it wouldn't start. Dashboard and cabin lights came on, but the engine wouldn't turn over. Is it a battery problem? Maybe a fuel problem? I haven't bought gas since last October. What's the recommended course of action here? It's a beater 2005 Accord if it makes any difference. By turn over, do you mean it doesn't spin or it spins but doesn't actually start? For whatever reason people use this differently. Do the lights dim / does the radio go off when you turn the key?
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Feb 23, 2021 06:57
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Charles posted:By turn over, do you mean it doesn't spin or it spins but doesn't actually start? For whatever reason people use this differently. Do the lights dim / does the radio go off when you turn the key? When I turn the key, the lights dim, and there's a sort of brief little wheezing sound from the engine.
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Feb 23, 2021 07:24
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Jump it again and go drive for an hour. Or if your battery is pretty old, just buy a new one.
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Feb 23, 2021 07:30
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gloom posted:Sorry to be imprecise, I don't even know the right terms. This sounds exactly like your battery is dead-dead, as in needs to be replaced. I'm going to guess you haven't ever replaced it, or it has been a while? Your battery is past due for a replacement, it's been stressed from going dead and will be a bad time till you replace it. It sounds like it has enough power to light up some things, but not enough juice to turn your starter.
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Feb 23, 2021 07:37
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ryanrs posted:Jump it again and go drive for an hour. Or if your battery is pretty old, just buy a new one. KakerMix posted:This sounds exactly like your battery is dead-dead, as in needs to be replaced. I'm going to guess you haven't ever replaced it, or it has been a while? Your battery is past due for a replacement, it's been stressed from going dead and will be a bad time till you replace it.
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Feb 23, 2021 07:58
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Offroad Minivan Update Installed new front and driver side engine mounts. There were very easy except I managed to lose one of the mounting bolts. It's a big bolt, maybe M12x50. I couldn't find it on the pretty clean concrete floor, up against a tire, under a jack, etc, etc. I looked everywhere I could in the engine bay, but didn't find it. I don't know for sure it is in the engine bay, but there's a good chance. So, uh, I guess I just buy another one and hope for the best? All should be fine as long as the old bolt doesn't find its way into the accessory belts? Anyway, I know this is bad but I spent a few hours looking for it and 
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Feb 23, 2021 07:58
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gloom posted:Once I get a new battery, I'll drive it more regularly. Or get a battery tender or solar charger thing. I don't have a specific brand recommendation, but I'm sure others will.
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Feb 23, 2021 07:59
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gloom posted:Thanks for the quick advice! It's true, I have no idea when the battery was last replaced but it must have been some time ago. I bought the car last year for some plans that got derailed because of COVID, and I didn't follow up on basic maintenance like I should have. It's been parked ever since, except for occasional day trips. Once I get a new battery, I'll drive it more regularly. Oh like half this thread has been battery issues since Covid started, no worries, I got my oil changed after more than one year on one car the other day 💩
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Feb 23, 2021 09:12
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pumped up for school posted:I made an appointment with a shop. I guess I'm just worried it is a $3k transmission for a very low mile, but out-of-warranty vehicle. My wife loves this little car (it is convenient to drive and park in a tight city) but I'm just giving it dagger eyes and venting. I've never liked the car, or the CVT. I know the 2009 had a CVT recall. I think when she bought this 2010 it went in for a recall but I can't find records of it.
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Feb 23, 2021 16:38
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That sucks. Blows my mind the costs to repair one vs buying new.
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Feb 23, 2021 18:45
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C-Bangin' it 
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Can't do much to the offroad minivan today; waiting on parts. But I took a look at the airbox wrt hydrolocking on water crossings.  The airbox inlet is that 45 deg downward pointing part. Height-wise, I think it ends up near the bottom of the headlights. I can't get a good measurement right now because the van is on jack stands and at a weird angle. But it looks like I might have been playing with fire on some of my water crossings. That is very bad. Time to fire up Solidworks and design an airbox inlet to PVC pipe adapter! I could also maybe make an adapter so that I could use an aftermarket truck snorkel. But I think a homebrew PVC design might actually looked better, or at least more in line with my van's style. I don't need any height, really. It just needs to pop out of the hood or fender a couple inches, with a mushroom cap rain shield or something on top. In the more immediate future, drive shaft arrives tomorrow, and strut boots arrive thurs. e: sewer line vent cap 
ryanrs fucked around with this message at 01:48 on Feb 24, 2021 |
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Feb 24, 2021 01:31
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Here’s a dumb question. Is there an ai discord? If not what are the thoughts of reaching out to whoever runs the diy discord and getting one set up on there?
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Feb 24, 2021 01:32
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There's an AI slack but I'm not aware of a discord.
kastein fucked around with this message at 12:33 on Mar 3, 2021 |
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Feb 24, 2021 02:27
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Well, I was beginning to wonder if he was going to reply, but the Dart seller finally got back to me. Here's an album with the pics he sent me. At least the body and interior looks pretty good, from what I can see. The only info he could add that I didn't already know was that it has a Slant 6 and that he never drove it, supposedly they only bought it as an "advertisement" for their business.
Brettbot fucked around with this message at 01:34 on Feb 25, 2021 |
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Feb 25, 2021 01:08
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ryanrs posted:Time to fire up Solidworks and design an airbox inlet to PVC pipe adapter! The pro move would be to wrap the pipe around and punch a hole through to the cabin. That way the Sienna won't start drowning until you do.
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Feb 25, 2021 02:06
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Brettbot posted:Well, I was beginning to wonder if he was going to reply, but the Dart seller finally got back to me. Here's an album with the pics he sent me. At least the body and interior looks pretty good, from what I can see. The only info he could add that I didn't already know was that it has a Slant 6 and that he never drove it, supposedly they only bought it as an "advertisement" for their business. The motor might be questionable. It's had mice living in it. They've been beavering away on the floor ducting above the tunnel, so now you have to make sure that haven't gnawed on any wiring that's going to explode colorfully one day while you're tooling down the road. The gas tank looks pretty rusty on the outside. They are easy to remove and replacing the fuel line is easier than doing the brakes. The tank is about $300.00, sending unit (if needed) is about $100.00, and the fuel lines can be had for well under $100.00. It looks like the windshield has been leaking, which may be no biggie but I'd bring an icepick and see if you can penetrate those front floor pans...or get him to send better photos of the pans from underneath. Then again, it may have been a community mouse urinal for some years, so you may want to break out the Fabuloso and order a new carpet set. The body appears to be in fabulous condition for a fifty-year-old Dart. Exterior body is especially immaculate. Offer $1500 unless he can demonstrate that the thing actually operates under its own power and shifts through all 3-gears. If it runs well offer $2500 max, with the unknown mouse damage, fuel system, brakes, engine & transmission. Changing out the engine & transmission is a fun (really! No irony!) same-day project, These cars are Tinkertoys. If I were in the mood for a non-AC Dart sedan like this I'd offer him $1100 sight unseen. But I have a big project now & likely will be busy most of the year with other car & house stuff. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 02:17 on Feb 25, 2021 |
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Feb 25, 2021 02:13
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| # ? May 30, 2024 15:30 |
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Brettbot posted:Well, I was beginning to wonder if he was going to reply, but the Dart seller finally got back to me. Here's an album with the pics he sent me. At least the body and interior looks pretty good, from what I can see. The only info he could add that I didn't already know was that it has a Slant 6 and that he never drove it, supposedly they only bought it as an "advertisement" for their business. I am very stupid and would buy that car. I have a thread here that may shed some light on why. In all seriousness, I'll echo what PoC said. 2500 if it moves under its own power would make for a pretty good project I think.
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Feb 25, 2021 02:31
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