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Mr Interweb posted:okay cool. good to hear. but also am curious, does the tightness of the tire cap come into play as well? some of the tires have caps that are within the hubcap/metal area of the tires and so it's a bit hard to get leverage to tighten them as much as i'd like. You mean the valve stem cap? No, they don't do anything except keep brake dust and garbage out. Don't over tighten them.
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# ? Oct 6, 2022 21:16 |
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# ? Jun 12, 2024 12:28 |
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tater_salad posted:oh man speaking of tire pressures.. One of my co-workers says I think this is mostly true. I always went by door jamb (33 for all 4 usually) until this past summer after I got new tires (Michelin pilots) when the tech set them all to 40. I decided to roll with it and liked it. It’s a Lexus sedan.
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# ? Oct 6, 2022 21:29 |
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Jedi Knight Luigi posted:I think this is mostly true. I always went by door jamb (33 for all 4 usually) until this past summer after I got new tires (Michelin pilots) when the tech set them all to 40. I decided to roll with it and liked it. It’s a Lexus sedan. ouch your spine The pressure on the sidewall of a tire is the maximum the tire can be inflated to and you should only need/want that if you also need to run the tire at its maximum weight load - which isn't the case for most tires on most cars. There are ways to ballpark what pressure you should be at if the new tire differs wildly from what your stock tire was in terms of size and load capacity. If you didn't have to lift your suspension to fit the new tire, the OEM pressures are probably close enough.
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# ? Oct 6, 2022 22:37 |
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OEM tends to run low to combat the whole ouch your spine thing. Among feeling better to handle to some people, there's some models that are known to eek out nearly a measurable MPG gain if you run closer to 40 instead of 30. I treat my cars like trash so my general tire care strategy is to drive until about fall when my TPM goes off for low temperature related pressure, have a mini heart attack when the gauge reads 18, then fill it all up to 35+-2, and remark "oh my God this is how it's supposed to handle isn't it" the next time I drive. If you're not able to have an opinion on the handling of your car or calculating MPG on paper instead of using the on board computer there's almost no reason not to just fill it to the door sticker.
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# ? Oct 6, 2022 23:42 |
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zedprime posted:OEM tends to run low to combat the whole ouch your spine thing. Among feeling better to handle to some people, there's some models that are known to eek out nearly a measurable MPG gain if you run closer to 40 instead of 30. This is not how you figure out tire pressure. Chalk or a thermal imaging camera is how you figure out tire pressure. This has little to do with OEM or not. OEM tires aren't wearing out on the edges on well maintained cars, which is what would happen if the type of underinflation you're talking about was a thing. They "combat" ouch my spine with suspension and tire selection. Not arbitrary tire pressure guidance.
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# ? Oct 7, 2022 01:20 |
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Motronic posted:This is not how you figure out tire pressure.
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# ? Oct 7, 2022 02:23 |
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So, let's say you're right about this (not really). What you are suggesting is that it's better to beat the piss out of your back and the vehicle suspension for.....reasons? Other than load capacity? Can you elaborate on why this is better than what the OEMs have chosen?
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# ? Oct 7, 2022 02:53 |
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zedprime posted:Its not arbitrary at all and I ended the reply just saying to follow it. They have a choice to select tires that run 33 or 40 at rated load and they choose 33 for comfort most of the time unless you're in a performance model or trim. You're not going to get perfect life without tracking weather vs overtime loss so you can put an extra 3-5 in with a bit of extra center tread wear indicated by a contact test but see minor or imagined benefits in mileage and handling while getting some amount stiffer in ride dynamics. You are not smarter than the engineers that designed the tires. Please fill them to the appropriate psi, check the pressures more frequently than once every 9 months, and don't let them run super low. Bad tire maintenance is a danger to yourself and the people around you on the road. Don't be that person.
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# ? Oct 7, 2022 03:08 |
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If you find it annoying to go to a garage to stick air in your tyres you can get an inflator for $notmuch. I got one of these, it's great. https://www.bosch-diy.com/gb/en/p/easypump-0603947000-v52511
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# ? Oct 7, 2022 07:14 |
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I hate those fuckin screw on chucks.
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# ? Oct 7, 2022 11:44 |
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I finally broke down and got a portable air compressor after driving around for half an hour to find a gas station with air only to slash the poo poo out of my hand with a nice sharp bit of metal jutting out of the hose. Best upgrade ever. The hose has a little switch that keeps it locked onto the valve stem. I dial in the pressure I want and pull the trigger. takes a couple of minutes to get all my tires inflated.
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# ? Oct 7, 2022 14:06 |
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Local Facebook marketplace has 1980s Jeep $5500 in great condition, standard upgrades lift bigger wheels etc 1980 Datsun pickup $3500, reduced from $5000, little rough but decent work truck 1973 karman ghia $13,900 asking, reduced from $14,900 Not 2019 prices but used car market appears to be recovering. Granted these are all 40 year old cars, but this time a year ago a jeep in that condition was $9000
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# ? Oct 7, 2022 18:54 |
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I paid about $9k for my ‘71 super beetle back in 2008 (kind of a sweetheart deal for the seller my uncle) so yeah that seems right for the kharmann ghia.
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# ? Oct 7, 2022 19:08 |
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Jedi Knight Luigi posted:I paid about $9k for my ‘71 super beetle back in 2008 (kind of a sweetheart deal for the seller my uncle) so yeah that seems right for the kharmann ghia. Yeah they are cool as hell and pretty rare. My dad has one.
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# ? Oct 7, 2022 20:51 |
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Karman ghias are worth a ton now. They've always been kinda rare and continue to do so because of the body gets hosed it's over.
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# ? Oct 7, 2022 21:38 |
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background: I've never posted in this forum to my knowledge, I know nothing about cars My 2009 TSX's (poo poo loads of miles) check engine light is on, so I get it checked out and it apparently needs a new catalytic converter and the timing chain needs to be replaced. basically like 4-5k in repairs for a car that Carvana offered me 3700 for. Don't notice it driving any different. Basically just drive it around 15-20 miles a day. Obviously not a great time to need to get a car. I went ahead and put a deposit down to lease a 2023 HRV LX. The deposit is refundable. The dealer is offering me 1500 for the TSX, and assumed if that was all I put down my monthly payment would be 450. I'd put enough down to get it under 400 but that still seems insane to me. I was hoping to hold off until next year to get an electric car and use all the tax breaks for it. I COULD use the extra storage space and AWD. I live in a Asheville so obviously I need to transport my bike/SUPB/rescue dogs, and I could use the extra space for hardware store trips. I just feel like 380-400/month for a Honda is hosed. There's a lot of evidence that the used car market could be cooling down in the next few months. 1. Is this deal not as bad as I think? Has timing just hosed me? 2. Should I go ahead and just move on an electric? 3. Should I let Jesus take the wheel and keep driving the TSX until it blows up and hope the used car market stabilizes 4. Do I stop lying to myself and get a Subaru FizFashizzle fucked around with this message at 23:43 on Oct 8, 2022 |
# ? Oct 8, 2022 23:26 |
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My expat group is all from a country where all gas stations have free air pumps for your tires and apparently this is not a thing in the US (at least not in GA). I made the mistake of pointing out that Costco has complimentary nitrogen pumps. Nitrogen v. Air chat has been going on for two days now.
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# ? Oct 8, 2022 23:40 |
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I would hang on to the TSX and would never consider leasing a vehicle. 2009 TSXs are selling for 7k up to 15k. The dealer is ripping you off, as was Carvana. It's worth it to fix it unless you don't like it and want something else.
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# ? Oct 8, 2022 23:40 |
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dpkg chopra posted:My expat group is all from a country where all gas stations have free air pumps for your tires and apparently this is not a thing in the US (at least not in GA). Don't bother with nitrogen in your tires if you have to pay for it. If its free then gently caress it, go nuts.
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# ? Oct 9, 2022 01:55 |
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FizFashizzle posted:1. Is this deal not as bad as I think? Has timing just hosed me? 1. This does sound like a bad deal with the HR-V. 2. Going electric depends on a number of factors. You haven’t provided enough detail to say really. Things like your living situation, miles driven annually, use case, typical trip lengths, and access to other vehicles are at least some factors to consider. 3. No, if you intend to keep it, fix your TSX. You should get at least another estimate or two. The repair bill seems high, but again the details are pretty light. 4. Subaru doesn’t do much for me these days.
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# ? Oct 9, 2022 13:39 |
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Wife totaled our 17 Suburban LT. Everyone is ok thankfully as she was the only one in the car. We paid $38k out the door for it in March 2020 with 60k miles. It was at 85k when it was wrecked. Insurance is paying us out for a touch over $38k, which is more than I figured. Only problem is, there isn't much stock of similar Suburbans (17/18/19 LT/Premiere) available in my area. The closest one I've found is a 19 Premiere an hour away, but it has a whopping 125k miles on it (45k/year). Carfax is squeaky clean and regular services are noted throughout the life of the car. I've talked the guy $1000 from their listing price to $34,500 (plus tax/fees). Comps in my area are around $38-40k for more normal-mileage Suburbs. His price is pretty decent, but I'm hesitant about the massive amount of miles. The guy told me it was a mom whose son played travel baseball, so they were on the road all the time. Sure it's a ton, but it looks well-maintained just from the Carfax. Allegedly has new tires and brakes. It's about an hour away and I have 5 kids, so I'm not making the trip unless I'm 95% sure I'm going to be buying it. Was just looking for opinions on the high miles in a new car. Using the insurance payout, it would essentially be a wash. We'd be going 2 model years newer, but with an additional 40k miles.
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# ? Oct 20, 2022 22:33 |
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Yeah, it was a little old lady and her church was just really far away. gently caress whatever story the dealer tells you about this truck they bought from a loving used car auction. I don't know if it's even possible anymore with how screwed up the market has been, but in the before times I would have told you to find an indy mechanic near the dealership to do a pre purchase inspection and if the dealership balks you already know everything you need to about that vehicle.
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# ? Oct 20, 2022 22:36 |
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Definitely get it inspected, but high mileage isn't the death of vehicles like it was back when we were kids. Properly maintained cars can last a really long time. Most people don't properly maintain their cars though. I don't know if Suburbans have a way to check the engine hours or not, but I know in my Expedition the menu in the cluster there's a way to show idle hours and total engine hours. Might give you a clue on how it lived its life. Price seems a little high, but I'm in Texas, full size SUV's are everywhere. I'm seeing multiple Suburbans in my area with that kind of mileage listed around 31.5K or so. 35.5-38K will get you one with 60 to 85K on it.
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# ? Oct 20, 2022 23:36 |
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You can supposedly buy a brand new LT for 62. I don’t know if that’s possible in practice but I would be tempted to try that instead. You have a big chunk of money down and finance ~25k at about 5%. Not ideal but I’d rather do that than throw that money at a high mileage used vehicle. I’m assuming you didn’t have a note on the old car, of course, and that you can absorb the payment. But if you can, that sounds like a much better idea. You should also search for GMC twins or sclades. Open it up to the Expedition too, why not.
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# ? Oct 20, 2022 23:39 |
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drat it's crazy that new vehicle APR 5% is normal now. I still haven't internalized yet that all recent years before now have been an aberration.
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# ? Oct 20, 2022 23:42 |
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skipdogg posted:Definitely get it inspected, but high mileage isn't the death of vehicles like it was back when we were kids. Properly maintained cars can last a really long time. Most people don't properly maintain their cars though. The carfax is littered with regular maintenance. It shows oil, tires, filters etc, so it seems to be maintained pretty well. Our 17 Suburban showed total engine hours. I can ask him to pull that number. Regarding the price, I'm in California, so I assume our prices are just naturally higher than anywhere else. KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:You can supposedly buy a brand new LT for 62. I don’t know if that’s possible in practice but I would be tempted to try that instead. You have a big chunk of money down and finance ~25k at about 5%. Not ideal but I’d rather do that than throw that money at a high mileage used vehicle. Nope, we paid cash for it. I personally hate having a car loan, so my past few cars have been cash only. 62 is pretty surprising though. When we looked a few years ago, new LTs were like 75-80 I thought. I've got a kid going into college next year, then 2 more following within a few years, so I'm not really hot on adding more debt. I'd rather just pay cash and be done with it again, but I do get what you mean. Not having to worry about anything exploding for a long time would be nice, but then again, with kids going into college, who knows how long we'll actually need a Suburban for? Our other 2 are toddlers, so theoretically in 5 years, we wouldn't have a need to seat more than 4. e: Just checked Chevy's website and the new LT starts at 67. The LS was 62 though. Once I add the bells & whistles our previous loaded LT had, the price goes to 71. Henrik Zetterberg fucked around with this message at 00:12 on Oct 21, 2022 |
# ? Oct 20, 2022 23:53 |
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Epic Chevy in Sactown has a single Suburban period (new - in transit) with $10k markup to $86k Roseville has a few maybe in the 70's
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# ? Oct 21, 2022 00:15 |
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Inner Light posted:drat it's crazy that new vehicle APR 5% is normal now. I still haven't internalized yet that all recent years before now have been an aberration. Back in the 90s, I remember seeing a commercial for some car company, don't remember which, that was all like "our financing is SO AWESOME!! SIX POINT NINE PERCENT FINANCING HELL YEAH"!! I guess that was considered good back then.....
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# ? Oct 21, 2022 00:32 |
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I think I finally need to just bite the bullet and buy a replacement vehicle
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# ? Oct 21, 2022 08:58 |
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Henrik Zetterberg posted:e: Just checked Chevy's website and the new LT starts at 67. The LS was 62 though. Once I add the bells & whistles our previous loaded LT had, the price goes to 71. Yeah scratch that then. Is the Armada big enough? Those seem to be available cheaper. Wheelbase is pretty long but overall length is shorter. The Yukon could open up some new options on the used market if you haven't looked for those. It's the same thing.
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# ? Oct 21, 2022 13:41 |
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I've had 2 GMC Yukons that each had over 250k miles and no issues. The interior was starting to fade, but years traveling between Houston and Durango CO will do that to you. 125k is not a big deal, and if you can't find a better deal (including maybe a fly and drive deal) I'd just do it. Remember, one-way on southwest is like $200, might be worth it to save some money. Yeah a lot of good Yukon xl slt options too Mustache Ride fucked around with this message at 14:07 on Oct 21, 2022 |
# ? Oct 21, 2022 13:48 |
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Ornery and Hornery posted:I think I finally need to just bite the bullet and buy a replacement vehicle Can you wait awhile. It's like a bad time to buy something still.
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# ? Oct 21, 2022 14:18 |
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:Yeah scratch that then. We looked at Yukons originally in 2020 when we first bought the Suburban. They were fine enough, but we just happened to find the right car at the right time and price, right before the world shut down literally the next week. That 125k suburban was just taken off cars.com a few hours after I haggled the price via text. It had been there since August according to Carfax, so who knows if it’s gone or they took it down because we were close on a price and said we were going to come look at it today. Mustache Ride posted:I've had 2 GMC Yukons that each had over 250k miles and no issues. The interior was starting to fade, but years traveling between Houston and Durango CO will do that to you. 125k is not a big deal, and if you can't find a better deal (including maybe a fly and drive deal) I'd just do it. I found one or two at good prices in Reno NV (1.5h away), but would then have to deal with the smog/emissions poo poo for California when registering it in state.
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# ? Oct 21, 2022 16:28 |
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It's like 50 bux to smog it if the Reno trip saves you thousands??
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# ? Oct 21, 2022 17:24 |
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Oh I totally get the math, it just seemed like it had to have some “50 states certification” sticker on it rather than 49 or whatever, from the CA DMV site. Anyway, I called about it and we’re talking prices and it looks like we may be driving up today to get it. 18 Suburban Premiere, loaded, 114k miles for 32.9 asking. Trying to get them down 1500 or so before I make the drive.
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# ? Oct 21, 2022 17:42 |
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45k miles a year sounds like the guy drives Uber Black on the weekends for supplemental income, which is nearly all city driving with a ton of wear and tear on the interior
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# ? Oct 21, 2022 23:48 |
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Hadlock posted:45k miles a year sounds like the guy drives Uber Black on the weekends for supplemental income, which is nearly all city driving with a ton of wear and tear on the interior The guy claimed he couldn’t find the engine hours, even though I told him exactly how to do it, and confirmed with the manual. It’s literally pushing the down arrow on the steering wheel like 2 times. We tossed out the 46k/year Suburban. The dude took way too long to get back to me and I didn’t like his price on top of being a doofus about the hours. I looked at some comps, and the 2018 Premiere at $33.9 in Reno was easily the best price within 400 miles of us. Beat all the CA prices by a good $3-4k. So we ditched work, drove up to Reno, did a test drive, and drove it home. It has all the features of our previous Burb, plus more. The old one had a 2nd row bench seat which the older kids hated because they had to climb in the trunk. The new one has bucket seats, making it more accessible to the third row. And my much-wanted adaptive cruise control. Even after CA registration, smog, and getting it weighed (yes this is a thing lol), and whatnot, we saved multiple thousands, and even came in under our insurance payout. So between that and getting more features, I think we did alright all things considered. Thanks for all the advice!
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# ? Oct 22, 2022 02:36 |
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A rare thread success story. Congrats
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# ? Oct 22, 2022 03:01 |
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Have a few pics of my lovely, but now redeemed, week. Snapped suspension, snapped CV axel, hosed up wheel, bent frame. All from a goddamn curb, somehow. Guess which one is totaled? Both! Our car was like the best one looking at the body shop. It was weird to see. New one, missing the front grill emblem for some reason, that I’ll have to eBay. Henrik Zetterberg fucked around with this message at 05:40 on Oct 22, 2022 |
# ? Oct 22, 2022 05:29 |
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# ? Jun 12, 2024 12:28 |
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She must have driven into the curb at 40mph or something.
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# ? Oct 22, 2022 07:58 |