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ThirstyBuck
Nov 6, 2010

:911:

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KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22
Don't kid yourself that this is uniquely American. German ATPs went up over 20% between 2015-2020, in part because they're buying more crossovers.

Ornery and Hornery
Oct 22, 2020

I’m going car shopping this weekend. And next weekend.

If I want to test drive a bunch of stuff, do I just call up a car max lot and say “hey can I test drive a bunch of stuff?”

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


Just show up.

Ornery and Hornery
Oct 22, 2020

Aye aye

BrainParasite
Jan 24, 2003


Proposed Budget: $40k-ish, less would be good
New or Used: New
Body Style: almost definitely truck, but if there's a better idea I'll take a look
How will you be using the car?: Needs 7500 lbs towing capacity and a back seat. 4WD preferred

Mustache Ride
Sep 11, 2001



You should be able to get a Ranger Lariat 4x4 for $39k MSRP that can tow that much.

There's a couple of SUVs that can pull that as well, but they aren't going to be $40k new. Maybe see if you can find a used Yukon around that price?

Other SUVs that may fit your requirements:
Dodge Durango
Jeep Grand Cherokee (7200 tow)

In the small truck range new your options that can tow that much are:
Ford Ranger

In the normal truck range your options are:
Base model f150
Base model Silverado
Base model GMC Sierra
Base model Dodge Ram
Base model Tundra

I say base model because the second you add 4wd or a crew cab the cost will skyrocket above 40k

Mustache Ride fucked around with this message at 14:36 on Nov 5, 2022

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22
There’s a reason people buy half tons to tow, but as posted they’re out of your budget configured the way you want as new models. A 40k used half ton should fit the bill.

What are you towing?

BrainParasite
Jan 24, 2003


KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:

There’s a reason people buy half tons to tow, but as posted they’re out of your budget configured the way you want as new models. A 40k used half ton should fit the bill.

What are you towing?

A horse trailer. TBH, it's probably a bit lighter. I'm a bit wary of buying used here because of rust and salt.

skipdogg
Nov 29, 2004
Resident SRT-4 Expert

Need more budget if you want to stay new, or open up to used.

Remember plane tickets are cheap. You can buy a truck from a better climate and drive it home.

Something like this would work.

https://www.northparkvw.com/VehicleDetails/used-2018-Ford-F_150-XLT_4WD_SuperCrew_5.5%27_Box-San_Antonio-TX/5394813280

Gucci Loafers
May 20, 2006

Ask yourself, do you really want to talk to pair of really nice gaudy shoes?


What's the best way to purchase car once I know my budget and make/model?

I've been told two things - either show up at the lot that has what I want close to the price or email dealers that have what I want with a cashier's check(?) or something that shows I already have financing pre-approved. And do this ideally near the end of the month or quarter.

My only question, if I join a local credit union or whatever will they even give me a printed cashier's check? Or what can they give that shows proof of payment?

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Mustache Ride posted:

In the small truck range new your options that can tow that much are:
Ford Ranger

The GM Colorado/Canyon twins can as well, as long as you get the factory tow package, avoid the ZR2, and avoid the 2.5L four cylinder - which isn't hard because as they wind down production on the 2022s, I think the 3.6 V6 is the only engine they're building. At least when I was truck shopping three years ago they rated the V6 at 7000lb and the 2.8L Duramax at 7700lb. Seems like they've upped the V6 to 7700lb as well.

The 2023 GM twins are a new generation and are only getting a single engine, the 2.7L turbo four GM is shoving into everything, with different tunes based on trim. Anything above the base ~240hp option should also do 7700lb towing.

BrainParasite posted:

A horse trailer. TBH, it's probably a bit lighter. I'm a bit wary of buying used here because of rust and salt.

How big of a horse trailer? We have a two-horse bumper pull Circle J that scales just under 2500lb with no horses in it, and our Canyon with the 2.8L Duramax tows it without even breaking a sweat. I think a three horse trailer might be doable around town but would probably be asking too much for climbing interstate mountain grades.

KillHour
Oct 28, 2007


Crosby B. Alfred posted:

What's the best way to purchase car once I know my budget and make/model?

I've been told two things - either show up at the lot that has what I want close to the price or email dealers that have what I want with a cashier's check(?) or something that shows I already have financing pre-approved. And do this ideally near the end of the month or quarter.

My only question, if I join a local credit union or whatever will they even give me a printed cashier's check? Or what can they give that shows proof of payment?

You won't have a check in hand until you have a signed purchase agreement because the bank is going to make it out to the dealership for the exact amount. And you don't want to bother with that anyways because the dealer might be more willing to negotiate if they think there's a chance they can get you on their financing.

Mustache Ride
Sep 11, 2001



Naw some credit unions have a Buyer's Check thing where they will pre-approve you up to a certain amount and you just spring it on the dealer when you make a decision.

I've negotiated the price down to one below my pre-approved amount, they take me to the finance guy to prove they can get lower rates, I say "sure run your rates and we'll see" and when they come back with double the rate I whip out the check and show the rate and make them sign it.

Gucci Loafers
May 20, 2006

Ask yourself, do you really want to talk to pair of really nice gaudy shoes?


Got it,

Is there any real difference from Cars.com, Autotrader, Carvana, etc. I'm the kind of person that's willing to fly out if it saves me a few grand.

FilthyImp
Sep 30, 2002

Anime Deviant
Carvana overprices its vehicles. And obviously their search is gated to their own inventory.

Cars/Autotrader are like early 90s search engines that just hoover up what's thrown at them. So if you're the type to avoid the corner lot car sales place by an Exxon gas station (HONEST Joe's HONEST Car Sales!) you'll have to use a discerning eye wrt results. There's a few places that basically buy salvaged/auctioned crash cars, do a quick refurb, and then toss them online.

Throatwarbler
Nov 17, 2008

by vyelkin
I went to a Toyota dealer today and sat in a new Camry and a new Highlander. I understand they are mechanically well built items but nothing about the experience gave me a compelling reason to upgrade from what I have now. Wife and kids weren't even interested in sitting in them. :geno:

Guuess we should hit up the Alfa/Maserati dealership next time.

KillHour
Oct 28, 2007


Yeah places like CarMax/Carvana are for the opposite of people who want to jump through hoops to save a few grand. They're for the people who are willing to pay extra for a low pressure sales experience.

Jean-Paul Shartre
Jan 16, 2015

this sentence no verb


Throatwarbler posted:

I went to a Toyota dealer today and sat in a new Camry and a new Highlander. I understand they are mechanically well built items but nothing about the experience gave me a compelling reason to upgrade from what I have now. Wife and kids weren't even interested in sitting in them. :geno:

Guuess we should hit up the Alfa/Maserati dealership next time.

That's because they're the Toyota Camry and Highlander. They are incredibly well designed, perfectly functional appliances. They are not going to give you any emotional reason to upgrade if your current car is also functional. You did the car equivalent of trying a new vacuum when your old vacuum still works. You do not need this new vacuum.

Gucci Loafers
May 20, 2006

Ask yourself, do you really want to talk to pair of really nice gaudy shoes?


I don't know if it's just me but while Toyota has a reputation for reliable vehicles the Camry hasn't been updated in a long time.

Also, please fall faster.

https://twitter.com/GuyDealership/status/1589659971998056449?s=20&t=l00eo7HD4d1MHxqxnpBzEQ

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Hadlock posted:

Update again, independent validation from a local car group post elsewhere on the internet:

Looking for input from someone in the "car biz", versus just gearhead speculation. So, I drive down M St twice a day, to and from work. Every new dealer (and some of the higher end used lots), regardless of brand, has off-brand, relatively new, accessorized out the bung hole trucks/SUV's sitting on their front lines. My question is, with the supposed world supply of vehicles still in a drought, how are these guys able to get their hands on such a glut of new stuff? Maybe not so much the smaller used lots, but drive past the new Infinity lot, the Mazda and Honda lots, the Dodge/Jeep used lot...they all have these frig'n trucks with lots of air and rubber under them, and less than a year or two old. Where are these coming from? If the new dealers are having such a hard time getting ahold of them, they can't be off-lease or program vehicles, or you'd think the selling dealer would keep them for their own inventory when traded back in since new equipment is supposedly so hard to stock. Just wondering if anyone "in the know" at a dealership can explain this phenomena to me...just curious?? And BTW...have you seen that "MEGA REXX" Raptor at S-H Mazda priced at $168k...??!!??...I mean, who in the hell...???

above quote from aug 2, 2022

so in my town we have an east-west axis road with an auto row, owned by several different people/groups it has been mostly full since at least september

the main north-south axis road appears to have like, 9 or more lots, all owned by the same guy/group on both sides of the road

all of the N-S axis lots have been empty up until about ~six weeks ago and they've started filling up, started seeing the maintenance door/bays open again and people milling about; prior to that they were properly shut closed zero activity

very rapidly seeing lots filling up now, almost like "the good old days"

I suspect prices will be within 20% of pre-pandemic by late april

Ornery and Hornery
Oct 22, 2020

Mustache Ride posted:

Naw some credit unions have a Buyer's Check thing where they will pre-approve you up to a certain amount and you just spring it on the dealer when you make a decision.

I've negotiated the price down to one below my pre-approved amount, they take me to the finance guy to prove they can get lower rates, I say "sure run your rates and we'll see" and when they come back with double the rate I whip out the check and show the rate and make them sign it.

Heck yeah, power move

I’m gonna do this

Ornery and Hornery
Oct 22, 2020

But the graph and shot makes me think I should try and wait a bit longer???

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22

Ornery and Hornery posted:

But the graph and shot makes me think I should try and wait a bit longer???

Do you need a car right now? If the answer is no I think you should wait. If the answer is yes, you should buy a car now because you need a car now and waiting is pointless.

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22
A dude kept making GBS threads up the AI new car thread with questions about financing so now you all get a financing post.

GreenBuckanneer posted:

I was reading on tiktok and YouTube that you don't want to do it through the dealer anyways because in shopping around the dealer will do hard credit pulls, and whatever amounts they quote you at is elevated anyways to squeeze as much money from you as possible, so the lender says 3% and they charge you 6% to make the difference

There are three ways to finance a car, broadly. I am leaving out leasing for the purposes of this discussion and I'm ignoring BHPH operations because you should never gently caress with BHPH operations.

1) You BYO financing. This involves you going to your bank and or credit union and getting preapproved for a loan for a given amount (which should be more than the price of the car you intend to buy; the preapproval amount is a maximum), term, and rate. The preapproval is valid for a certain period of time, typically 30 days. Once you pick a car, you tell the dealer you are bringing your own financing, and they'll work through the process with you. You may have to do additional legwork and paperwork as a result.

2) You use the manufacturer's captive financing. These are entities like Toyota Motor Credit, Volkswagen Credit International, etc that exist to move cars. The manufacturer's financing arm loans you money when you buy one of their cars. Since the purpose of captive finance is twofold - make money on loans, and move cars - and those two purposes are not necessarily fully aligned, you can see some really, really good interest rates from captive finance. We're talking 0.9%, 1.9%, 2.5% etc. You typically have to have excellent credit to qualify for these rates and the terms of the loans are generally non-negotiable. They are highly standard and the structure is fair to the consumer (no early repayment penalties etc) Note that in many cases, financing from the manufacturer is in lieu of manufacturer cash incentives. You'll see stuff like $1K cash back or 0.9% financing, meaning you have to pick one or the other.

3) You use dealer-provided financing. This does not mean that the dealer is loaning you money; the dealer is brokering an auto loan for you through a (usually) highly reputable lender (think Ally, BoA, etc). The dealer is allowed to make money on financing by marking up the interest rate; the extent to which they can do this is limited by the loan originator and usually is no more than 200bps or 2 percentage points. You can negotiate this interest rate and the dealer may give up some or all of their markup. They also receive back-end compensation from the loan originator, so you can sometimes get a better deal off of dealer-provided financing from the same originator. Generally speaking, these loans are fairly standard (no early repayment penalties etc) because they come from reputable lenders, but you should be careful to read the fine print.

In all of these cases, the loan originator is going to hold your car's title until you pay off the loan.

What does this mean and how do you use it?
1) Always have a BYO financing option. This allows you to benchmark the dealer and captive finance offered rates, and allows you to exert some leverage over the dealer.
2) You don't have to use your BYO financing option. If the dealer or captive finance is going to beat your BYO financing rates, you should use those options.
3) If you are considering a captive financing option, make sure that a) you aren't giving up cash incentives and or b) giving up the cash incentive still makes financial sense. Run the numbers.

Nitrox
Jul 5, 2002
That's a good write up and should be added to the op

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

On a scale of dumb to really dumb, where does a Fisker Karma with a 60 month extended warranty from carmax sit, let's assume I sell it within 60 months

The place we bought our other car from had one, the back seat was ultra cramped for a car seat, but once we transition to a booster seat might be achievable

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22
The thing with weird unicorn cars is that even if the costs are covered under warranty, it's very likely that your car will be out of service for a long period of time for even simple repairs. And the nearest authorized service location may be far away. Only way I would even begin to consider it is if the warranty includes rental/replacement AND pickup/dropoff of the vehicle at your home.

I've never really understood the appeal of that particular car. I crawled all over one and drove it a fair amount in 2010 and compared to like, a contemporary A7 it was pretty lousy.

Rakeris
Jul 20, 2014

Trying to decide if I want to put some money into my ISF with 200k miles or look to trade it in while used car values are decent? (Needs valley plate resealed, shocks, and exhaust leak fixed)

Tell me why buying a newer car is dumb right now, thanks?

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Rakeris posted:

Tell me why buying a newer car is dumb right now, thanks?

That 200.0 number on the far right? It may go down to somewhere between 125-165, my guess is sometime before next summer (past results do not guarantee future returns). I would expect it to hit 150 by July 1 2023 but that's a wild rear end guess. Why buy from a very limited selection at 200 when you can buy from an enormous selection at 125. There has been a lot of speculation that car repoessesors have been holding on to inventory rather than putting them right back on the market to inflate values but again that's speculation

Hadlock fucked around with this message at 20:00 on Nov 8, 2022

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22

Rakeris posted:

Trying to decide if I want to put some money into my ISF with 200k miles or look to trade it in while used car values are decent? (Needs valley plate resealed, shocks, and exhaust leak fixed)

Tell me why buying a newer car is dumb right now, thanks?

IF you can get hands on a brand new car that you like AND you can afford it at sticker AND you're willing to wait AND you aren't paying an ADM, then you can go buy a new car. The problem with selling your car at the height of the used car market is this: how do you replace it?


Hadlock posted:

That 200.0 number on the far right? It may go down to somewhere between 125-165, my guess is sometime before next summer (past results do not guarantee future returns). I would expect it to hit 150 by July 1 2023 but that's a wild rear end guess. Why buy from a very limited selection at 200 when you can buy from an enormous selection at 125. There has been a lot of speculation that car repoessesors have been holding on to inventory rather than putting them right back on the market to inflate values but again that's speculation

I doubt the latter; the margins in that business aren't high enough to sustain carrying a bunch of inventory on the books when you could dispose of it for pretty tidy profits.

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:


What does this mean and how do you use it?
1) Always have a BYO financing option. This allows you to benchmark the dealer and captive finance offered rates, and allows you to exert some leverage over the dealer.
2) You don't have to use your BYO financing option. If the dealer or captive finance is going to beat your BYO financing rates, you should use those options.
3) If you are considering a captive financing option, make sure that a) you aren't giving up cash incentives and or b) giving up the cash incentive still makes financial sense. Run the numbers.

Sweet thanks!

I called my bank and they said they're not interested in giving loans unless your debt to income ratio is under 50%

I Google what DNI ratio actually means and covers and looks like my DNI is only 18% so that sounds good (to me). I have to actually talk to my bank though to see what their final opinion is, sometime this week.

Rakeris
Jul 20, 2014

KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:

IF you can get hands on a brand new car that you like AND you can afford it at sticker AND you're willing to wait AND you aren't paying an ADM, then you can go buy a new car. The problem with selling your car at the height of the used car market is this: how do you replace it?

Yeah fair, kind of my main worry, considered a cheaper motorcycle, but idk if I want to commute on that a couple days a week for uh, a while potentially.

in a well actually
Jan 26, 2011

dude, you gotta end it on the rhyme

Recently I was almost run off the road by a fisker with cali mfr plates and “preproduction test vehicle” vinyl labels that couldn’t stay in a single lane (unclear whether drunk or just bad lane keeping)

That’s my Fisker story.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





GreenBuckanneer posted:

Sweet thanks!

I called my bank and they said they're not interested in giving loans unless your debt to income ratio is under 50%

I Google what DNI ratio actually means and covers and looks like my DNI is only 18% so that sounds good (to me). I have to actually talk to my bank though to see what their final opinion is, sometime this week.

While that's probably a good conversation to have - in my limited experience, I've never been asked for any sort of proof that a bank is specifically approving me for X percent on Y vehicle for Z term, in order for the dealer to match or beat it. I've always picked the lowest interest rate published on whichever bank/CU I'm willing to do the loan with and quoted that when talking with the dealer, and even when buying used they've matched or beat the rate every time, and at that point I'll go through the dealer just to streamline the process.

The one time I bought new I went through Honda's captive financing which made it not even a question, 0.9% for 60mo and a $750 discount for going with them. I didn't even have $750 in interest across the life of that loan.

zedprime
Jun 9, 2007

yospos
If you don't have a loan approval in hand and you end up wanting to go with your own financing the dealer is going to hem and haw and try to invent reasons to pressure you into their own loan. This isn't an actual problem especially in normal times as you just ignore their pressure and go finish your preapproval and come back to what's probably going to be the same deal. If there's still supply chain issues and you're trying to get a limited supply of cars you're interested in its probably getting sold out from under you and better luck next time its in stock. I've heard of most people being able to use captive or dealer preferred and just the conversation gets them to cut themselves out but that's also been during a very unique interest rate period for car shopping and we're getting back into a loan market where you may need to exercise your own preapproval.

When a bank refers to used car financing it is usually specific to 10+ year old cars otherwise you are just car financing. 10 years is where their risk management has kicked in to tell them to collect more on interest as a repo is likely to result in a totaled car.

Ornery and Hornery
Oct 22, 2020

KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:

A dude kept making GBS threads up the AI new car thread with questions about financing so now you all get a financing post.

There are three ways to finance a car, broadly. I am leaving out leasing for the purposes of this discussion and I'm ignoring BHPH operations because you should never gently caress with BHPH operations.

1) You BYO financing. This involves you going to your bank and or credit union and getting preapproved for a loan for a given amount (which should be more than the price of the car you intend to buy; the preapproval amount is a maximum), term, and rate. The preapproval is valid for a certain period of time, typically 30 days. Once you pick a car, you tell the dealer you are bringing your own financing, and they'll work through the process with you. You may have to do additional legwork and paperwork as a result.

2) You use the manufacturer's captive financing. These are entities like Toyota Motor Credit, Volkswagen Credit International, etc that exist to move cars. The manufacturer's financing arm loans you money when you buy one of their cars. Since the purpose of captive finance is twofold - make money on loans, and move cars - and those two purposes are not necessarily fully aligned, you can see some really, really good interest rates from captive finance. We're talking 0.9%, 1.9%, 2.5% etc. You typically have to have excellent credit to qualify for these rates and the terms of the loans are generally non-negotiable. They are highly standard and the structure is fair to the consumer (no early repayment penalties etc) Note that in many cases, financing from the manufacturer is in lieu of manufacturer cash incentives. You'll see stuff like $1K cash back or 0.9% financing, meaning you have to pick one or the other.

3) You use dealer-provided financing. This does not mean that the dealer is loaning you money; the dealer is brokering an auto loan for you through a (usually) highly reputable lender (think Ally, BoA, etc). The dealer is allowed to make money on financing by marking up the interest rate; the extent to which they can do this is limited by the loan originator and usually is no more than 200bps or 2 percentage points. You can negotiate this interest rate and the dealer may give up some or all of their markup. They also receive back-end compensation from the loan originator, so you can sometimes get a better deal off of dealer-provided financing from the same originator. Generally speaking, these loans are fairly standard (no early repayment penalties etc) because they come from reputable lenders, but you should be careful to read the fine print.

In all of these cases, the loan originator is going to hold your car's title until you pay off the loan.

What does this mean and how do you use it?
1) Always have a BYO financing option. This allows you to benchmark the dealer and captive finance offered rates, and allows you to exert some leverage over the dealer.
2) You don't have to use your BYO financing option. If the dealer or captive finance is going to beat your BYO financing rates, you should use those options.
3) If you are considering a captive financing option, make sure that a) you aren't giving up cash incentives and or b) giving up the cash incentive still makes financial sense. Run the numbers.

I appreciate all your effort posts.

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

I think in some states, you can do dealer finance, and within 1 business day you have a grace period where you can finance at no cost using a 3rd party, and then drop/refund the dealer financing. That's wishful thinking though because once the deal is done most people don't have the mental energy to go deal with shopping for better financing even though it's obviously in their best interest, but it's possible. Sometimes.

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22

Hadlock posted:

I think in some states, you can do dealer finance, and within 1 business day you have a grace period where you can finance at no cost using a 3rd party, and then drop/refund the dealer financing. That's wishful thinking though because once the deal is done most people don't have the mental energy to go deal with shopping for better financing even though it's obviously in their best interest, but it's possible. Sometimes.

I don't really understand the purpose to this versus seeking a preapproval.

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Deteriorata
Feb 6, 2005

KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:

I don't really understand the purpose to this versus seeking a preapproval.

Some people go to the dealer first to see if there's a car they want.

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