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Teabag Dome Scandal posted:This is kind of a dumb simple question but how do people choose baseboard moulding? This doesn't fully answer your questions, but could you get some samples and/or do some mockups? Teabag Dome Scandal posted:I'm also leaning towards solid wood instead of MDF. Any strongly held opinions on that? Are you painting it?
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Jul 2, 2019 18:10
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It’s pretty much just personal taste, but this is a good article: https://www.houzz.com/magazine/how-to-size-interior-trim-for-a-finished-look-stsetivw-vs~2934773 For crown and stuff up in the air that doesn’t get any wear MDF is fine, but for base I would stick with solid wood. If you go to a real lumberyard/millwork supplier, they will probably have a wider selection and possibly better price than a big box.
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Jul 2, 2019 18:23
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Teabag Dome Scandal posted:This is kind of a dumb simple question but how do people choose baseboard moulding? I wouldn't put MDF anywhere you're going to ding, scratch, or get water on it even incidentally (spills).
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Jul 2, 2019 18:24
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:It’s pretty much just personal taste, but this is a good article: Great link! Thank you! Jaded Burnout posted:This doesn't fully answer your questions, but could you get some samples and/or do some mockups? Yes, plan on painting it. I know I can get samples but I was more wondering about proportion and that sort of thing that the houzz article covered. I'm leaning towards simple because it's a small house and so I just didn't want the sizing to be weird more than anything. H110Hawk posted:I wouldn't put MDF anywhere you're going to ding, scratch, or get water on it even incidentally (spills). That was my thinking too but I wanted to make sure I wasn't being unreasonable.
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Jul 2, 2019 21:25
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Teabag Dome Scandal posted:That was my thinking too but I wanted to make sure I wasn't being unreasonable. I mean, I've lived somewhere with white-painted fibre board skirting and I had no idea that's what it was until I dropped the corner of an aluminium projector screen onto it, and I knew at that point because it absolutely obliterated it. So it would probably be fine until it isn't and then it would be very not fine, but if you can affort wood-like-from-a-tree then by all means.
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Jul 2, 2019 21:50
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I'm thinking of getting some roller shades for my living room / entryway. I've got 7 big floor to ceiling windows that face west, in the summer afternoons it gets really bad. Any suggestions on the type that would block out the most heat?
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Jul 3, 2019 18:13
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Nevets posted:I'm thinking of getting some roller shades for my living room / entryway. I've got 7 big floor to ceiling windows that face west, in the summer afternoons it gets really bad. Any suggestions on the type that would block out the most heat? OK so this one is a bit of an exercise in thermodynamics. The sun comes in through the glass, and heats things. This much you know. However, if you're putting up blinds on the inside, then all you're really doing is heating up some blinds, and the blinds are *still in your house*, which means they will start to heat up the air around them and your room still gets hot, just perhaps less so or less obviously so than without them. The answer then is one of: 1. Something on the outside to stop the sun's heat getting through the glass in the first place, like shutters. 2. Something on the inside that will reflect as much light back out through the glass as possible without it having a chance to get all up in your business, like foil or other silvery stuff. White also works OK. 3. Something that allows the sun through the glass, absorbs it, but keeps the heat trapped on the window side rather than allowing it into the room, like double-layered floor to ceiling blackout/thermal curtains.
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Jul 3, 2019 18:49
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The blinds can reflect a lot of the light back out I assume. I get your point but I know for sure that heavy drapes/good shutters make a big difference.
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Jul 3, 2019 19:01
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Jealous Cow posted:The blinds can reflect a lot of the light back out I assume. I get your point but I know for sure that heavy drapes/good shutters make a big difference. Aye, I put them as options!
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Jul 3, 2019 19:10
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Nevets posted:I'm thinking of getting some roller shades for my living room / entryway. I've got 7 big floor to ceiling windows that face west, in the summer afternoons it gets really bad. Any suggestions on the type that would block out the most heat? A long term solution is planting deciduous trees, climate permitting
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Jul 3, 2019 19:16
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Jaded Burnout posted:2. Something on the inside that will reflect as much light back out through the glass as possible without it having a chance to get all up in your business, like foil or other silvery stuff. White also works OK. That is what I was leaning towards doing. I saw some stuff like this: https://northsolarscreen.com/indoor-shades/high-performance-verosol/ but I wasn't sure how well it would actually work and was hoping somebody here had experience with a product like this. If it's just snake oil, however, I'll just get plain vinyl shades and save some money toward replacing the windows themselves with much better ones.
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Jul 3, 2019 19:33
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I bet those work as well as they can for what they are aiming to do. I say as well as they can because they still let light in (but block most UV light). Something that completely blocks the light will work better, but of course you lose your view with complete blocking. So if having a view while also reducing heat is a goal, then maybe what you linked is what you are looking for. If you don't need to see outside and just want to block heat entering your home, blinds or drapes might be a better option.
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Jul 3, 2019 19:59
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Nevets posted:That is what I was leaning towards doing. My uncle had that style shades on the west facing windows of his river house, and they did make a very noticeable difference on hot sunny afternoons. He's recently remodeled and replaced the old single pane windows with much nicer double pane with UV reflective coatings, and he's found that he doesn't need the shades any more in the afternoon.
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Jul 3, 2019 20:36
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I've always wondered about the effectiveness of using drapes for cooling, because isn't fabric (that's usually dark so as to keep the room dark) going to absorb most of that energy and dissipate it in the room? I would think white blinds would be good because they reflect pretty well, and storm shutters would be the best because they block light before it even enters your home E: ^^^ and blinds with an aluminum layer should work even better than white blinds, that's a cool product. QuarkJets fucked around with this message at 22:54 on Jul 3, 2019 |
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Jul 3, 2019 22:52
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QuarkJets posted:I've always wondered about the effectiveness of using drapes for cooling, because isn't fabric (that's usually dark so as to keep the room dark) going to absorb most of that energy and dissipate it in the room? I would think white blinds would be good because they reflect pretty well, and storm shutters would be the best because they block light before it even enters your home I assumed that was why the backs of our blackout curtains are white. It's not great, but it's better than nothing.
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Jul 4, 2019 00:21
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ntan1 posted:Ok, follow up on our attempt to acquire a building permit for a remodel of the 2nd floor bedroom and bathroom. We failed to acquire a permit today because: We were approved for our permits today after like an hour and a half back and forth with the building and planning department! The plans below were entirely drawn by us.   
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Jul 4, 2019 01:37
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getting stampy nanananana
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Jul 4, 2019 05:51
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Anyone got some solid recommendations for good outdoor sectional cushions? Comfort and durability are probably key with price being secondary.
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Jul 5, 2019 00:28
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I'm not sure what to do about cracks and other damage in my driveway: https://imgur.com/a/dYdXwNE I power-washed it a couple of weeks ago, so it's looking pretty great compared to before then, but it does still have visible damage. For reference, I live in a snowy part of the Midwest, which I'm guessing doesn't help. I see ads for companies that "resurface" driveways: is that what I need? Can I fill in the cracks with something in a way that wouldn't look bad?
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Jul 6, 2019 00:41
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IMO wood over MDF whenever cost permits. My house has 100 year or so year old 6inch baseboards like the one you linked in every room, between the 9 foot ceilings in the living room to the 8 foot bedrooms, it all looks fine together. There’s a part of the house they redid with that clamshell crap and it looks awful contrasted with everything else.
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Jul 6, 2019 00:49
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surf rock posted:I'm not sure what to do about cracks and other damage in my driveway: https://imgur.com/a/dYdXwNE So you have a concrete driveway? You need to seal the cracks so the freeze/thaw doesn't make them worse. Something like this will do: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Quikrete-10-1-oz-Concrete-Crack-Sealant-862017/203604186 You CAN seal concrete (like the top of it) but I'm not sure that's a necessary thing. If it keeps cracking it's likely something else, like water getting into another crack/cut and heaving the slab when it freezes or just poor prep which you'll never fix without doing it all over again.
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Jul 6, 2019 01:08
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Slowly fixing things up around the house after one and a half years of ownership and I'm not really sure what to do about this door splitting. During the winter months it's fine, but when it warms up the lockset starts to undo itself out of the door and causes it to be super hard to open because the screws are catching against the strike / frame. I'm inclined to take the lock set out, shoot a whole lot of wood glue in here, and clamp it shut for X number of hours but I'm wondering if there's another course of action short of replacing the whole door. Door + lockset is probably a good 40 years old at this point so it might be worth replacing anyways.
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Jul 6, 2019 01:39
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kimcicle posted:Slowly fixing things up around the house after one and a half years of ownership and I'm not really sure what to do about this door splitting. During the winter months it's fine, but when it warms up the lockset starts to undo itself out of the door and causes it to be super hard to open because the screws are catching against the strike / frame. I'm inclined to take the lock set out, shoot a whole lot of wood glue in here, and clamp it shut for X number of hours but I'm wondering if there's another course of action short of replacing the whole door. That (wood glue and clamp) is what I did and it worked great so far. When properly applied and clamped, glued wood will be stronger than the surrounding fibers
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Jul 6, 2019 01:42
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That's a lovely laminated door that has already outlived it's lifespan. Sorry.
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Jul 6, 2019 01:43
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Hubis posted:That (wood glue and clamp) is what I did and it worked great so far. When properly applied and clamped, glued wood will be stronger than the surrounding fibers I've done the same. It doesn't look pretty but it works.
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Jul 6, 2019 01:53
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kimcicle posted:Slowly fixing things up around the house after one and a half years of ownership and I'm not really sure what to do about this door splitting. During the winter months it's fine, but when it warms up the lockset starts to undo itself out of the door and causes it to be super hard to open because the screws are catching against the strike / frame. I'm inclined to take the lock set out, shoot a whole lot of wood glue in here, and clamp it shut for X number of hours but I'm wondering if there's another course of action short of replacing the whole door. I feel like that's just gonna need to be replaced man
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Jul 6, 2019 01:55
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Motronic posted:So you have a concrete driveway? You need to seal the cracks so the freeze/thaw doesn't make them worse. Something like this will do: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Quikrete-10-1-oz-Concrete-Crack-Sealant-862017/203604186 Got it, thank you!
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Jul 6, 2019 02:26
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Motronic posted:That's a lovely laminated door that has already outlived it's lifespan. That Works posted:I feel like that's just gonna need to be replaced man While this is probably true, I'd say that if you have the glue and clamps there's no harm in trying. Worst case scenario is that it splits again and then you replace the door anyways. They key is going to be getting something like a bamboo skewer or toothpick and really getting it in the crack and on both sides, then clamping it evenly (multiple clamps at multiple places along the crack). Give it 1-4 hours, then try and put everything back together.
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Jul 6, 2019 03:57
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So I have a beige-ish color granite countertop in my kitchen. It looks super boring/not great against the white cabinets. Is there any sort of treatment that I can use on the granite to darken it? Ideally I’d like to replace it with something in a dark grey in the future, but spending $$$ on an otherwise fine counter isn’t in the cards right now.
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Jul 6, 2019 04:35
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Spring Heeled Jack posted:So I have a beige-ish color granite countertop in my kitchen. It looks super boring/not great against the white cabinets. Paint your cabinets.
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Jul 6, 2019 11:42
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Hubis posted:While this is probably true, I'd say that if you have the glue and clamps there's no harm in trying. Worst case scenario is that it splits again and then you replace the door anyways. Only thing I would change with this fix attempt would be to give it overnight or a full day (if it's your front door and you don't want to be asleep with it open and unlocked) for the glue to dry before you go drilling and putting the lock back in place.
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Jul 6, 2019 17:38
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I have the glue, but no clamps. I was thinking about boring out all the screw holes and hammering in dowels + toothpicks to try to fix the screws coming out issue. I know the door is probably due for replacement but it's the door leading to the garage so it can be in a semi-fixed state until I have time to replace the whole thing. Should I just get some clamps from harbor freight?
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Jul 6, 2019 18:50
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I need to relocate my DSL line and while I’m at it I’d like to switch to keystone jacks. This way I can run a wired connection back into the wall and to the other room to my pc without cluttering the wall with plates everywhere. Problem is I don’t know what is going on with this plate. It has one DSL connection and one phone (unused).   Not sure what’s going on with the yellow/green/red/black coming out. This post indicates something about it being for testing: https://forums.att.com/t5/AT-T-Internet-Installation/Uverse-data-line-dsl-connection-to-Modem/td-p/5728881 Anyone know if it’s safe to ignore?
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Jul 6, 2019 18:51
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We have orange peel walls. It looks fine, but it's a bitch to paint with any sort of detail (we did some stripes in a powder room, and painters tape doesn't really work on those types of walls. So, I want to smooth some out. As I understand it, I'd need to use some joint compound and spread that all over. My question is, is it as easy as it seems? DOes it stay smooth? What about corners?
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Jul 6, 2019 23:52
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Faustian Bargain posted:I need to relocate my DSL line and while I’m at it I’d like to switch to keystone jacks. This way I can run a wired connection back into the wall and to the other room to my pc without cluttering the wall with plates everywhere. I’m gonna go with yes. The color on the wiring pairs going to the jacks indicates that they use used a single cat5 to run inside the house to that wall plate from the exterior wall hookup. Don’t forget to run pull strings while you are dropping cable, it may not be your future self that is thankful but it’s worth the time to deal with.
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Jul 7, 2019 00:07
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kimcicle posted:I have the glue, but no clamps. I was thinking about boring out all the screw holes and hammering in dowels + toothpicks to try to fix the screws coming out issue. I know the door is probably due for replacement but it's the door leading to the garage so it can be in a semi-fixed state until I have time to replace the whole thing. Yeah, great excuse to grab a bunch of clamps off of HF.
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Jul 7, 2019 18:53
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I'm watching some wasps crawl behind some aluminum siding fascia and up into the soffits under the eaves. They're obviously camping out up in there. Any advice on how to diy murder them? Google's showing me something called Tempo Dust, but neither Lowe's nor Home Depot sell it.. Edit: Oh, Tempo is a brand name. Big box stores have other brands... Hmm.. mutata fucked around with this message at 00:13 on Jul 8, 2019 |
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Jul 7, 2019 23:59
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mutata posted:I'm watching some wasps crawl behind some aluminum siding fascia and up into the soffits under the eaves. They're obviously camping out up in there. Any advice on how to diy murder them? Google's showing me something called Tempo Dust, but neither Lowe's nor Home Depot sell it.. 
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Jul 8, 2019 00:15
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mutata posted:I'm watching some wasps crawl behind some aluminum siding fascia and up into the soffits under the eaves. They're obviously camping out up in there. Any advice on how to diy murder them? Google's showing me something called Tempo Dust, but neither Lowe's nor Home Depot sell it.. https://domyown.com/how-to-get-rid-of-wasps-a-505.html
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Jul 8, 2019 01:47
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mutata posted:I'm watching some wasps crawl behind some aluminum siding fascia and up into the soffits under the eaves. They're obviously camping out up in there. Any advice on how to diy murder them? Google's showing me something called Tempo Dust, but neither Lowe's nor Home Depot sell it.. Do you think you can hit where they're hanging out with some kind of sprayer (e.g. pump sprayer or spray bottle)? If so, many of the common pyrethroid insecticides will work. Bifenthrin is my favorite general use bug killer. You can get concentrated bottles of it online and just mix with water. Buying the concentrate is way, way cheaper than getting Raid or whatever at the store. You may also need to re-treat a few times to get all the stragglers. It's generally pretty harmless to humans, but don't be a dummy with it. Wear goggles, gloves, and a mask when spraying.
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Jul 8, 2019 01:50
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