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Edmond Dantes posted:Alright, ended up getting the Ryzen 3600 with an Asus Prime X570 Pro. Took me longer than I care to admit to set everything up, but it's up and running. I'll start with the game testing shortly. Try checking it with cpu z if you aren't using that specifically. Other software can prevent idle.
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Oct 5, 2019 16:45
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Also update to the latest bios if you haven’t done so already. Also, double-check that you’re set to “Windows balanced” rather than “performance” as your power plan.
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Oct 5, 2019 16:49
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I built an i9 system last week and just kind of grabbed 32gb of RAM from Amazon without thinking too much about it: "Corsair LPX 32GB DRAM 3000MHz C15 Memory Kit for DDR4 Systems" Is this a bad selection? I don't even think its the advertised C15, and I don't mind spending a bit more to get the most out of the i9... shopping around I think I could bump it up to 3600 before the prices get absurd. Should I even bother? I'm not looking to be a benchmark hero or anything, but if I made a sub-optimal choice it's better to change it out now while I can return it.
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Oct 5, 2019 17:01
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VelociBacon posted:I don't know anything about ryzen so I won't make any comments on your build but these days it seems like the mobo, GPU, etc come with a lot of nice branded velcro ties for cable management. I still needed a couple ones for things here and there. Mu Zeta posted:Does your case really need to be that cramped? I know it looks good but if you get something basic like the Thermaltake Core V1 there's plenty of breathing room for everything. You'll be fine with the stock cooler as well. Getting RGB on my RAM wasn't intentional, I thought it was the cheapest kit, guess I wasn't looking hard enough. Will also definitely go with your recommendation of EX920 and not replacing the stock CPU cooler. I've done a bit more reading on the Node 202 cooling situation and apparently the best thing to do is to have fans exhaust hot air from the case, so even with the Gigabyte, I'd have to remove the fan and shroud. This means I might go with the ROG Strix recommendation. MikeC posted:Besides what Stickman has pointed out if you want to consider shaving off more dollars, MemoryExpress has Ryzen 2600 going for $164. They are also offering a R5 3600 + Asus TUF B450 Mobo combo for 369.99. Unsure if they pre-flash the Mobo with the new bios though. Additional questions: Does removing the shroud and fan void the warranty? If I decide to stretch my budget and get a 2.5" HDD, what would be the recommendation for about 80-100 USD?
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Oct 5, 2019 17:02
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VelociBacon posted:Try checking it with cpu z if you aren't using that specifically. Other software can prevent idle. Stickman posted:Also update to the latest bios if you haven’t done so already. Also, double-check that you’re set to “Windows balanced” rather than “performance” as your power plan. /edit: I'll take it to the AMD CPU thread, I just noticed we have a dedicated one. Thanks again everyone!
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Oct 5, 2019 18:21
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Edmond Dantes posted:I'll take a look, but I'm using HWInfo64 which afaik works? The post by AMD awhile ago only gave CPU-Z as a solution for this so I'm not sure.
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Oct 5, 2019 18:35
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Power supply: Corsair TX550M Mobo: B450M Pro 4-F CPU: Ryzen 7 2700 GPU: GeForce GTX 1660 TI Problem: won't boot, won't post. I've unplugged all the peripherals, tried with 0/1/2 sticks of RAM, behavior is exactly the same: powers up, all fans including GPU fans turn on, runs for ~28 seconds, powers off for two seconds, repeat. Disconnected the power pin and used the screwdriver trick to power on, no change, so no short in the chassis power cable. When I had a monitor plugged in on my first try, I could see it getting some sort of signal since it woke from sleep but nothing ever actually appeared on screen Not sure what to do from here - unseat the CPU and reapply thermal paste to rule out a heat issue? Pop out CMOS battery for a while? I have an old Corsair 750w power supply but it's 7 years old and definitely out of warranty, no other spares to speak of Edit: I should mention all parts are brand new kumba fucked around with this message at 19:01 on Oct 5, 2019 |
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Oct 5, 2019 18:57
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kumba posted:Power supply: Corsair TX550M What model RAM?
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Oct 5, 2019 19:08
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kumba posted:Power supply: Corsair TX550M Best advice is to make sure your GPU and CPU are seated correctly, and making sure all power cables are properly secured. Clear CMOS, check RAM again. Check QVL of your motherboard to see if RAM is compatible
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Oct 5, 2019 19:10
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VelociBacon posted:What model RAM? GeIL EVO POTENZA AMD 16GB (2 x 8GB) 288-Pin DDR4 SDRAM DDR4 3000 (PC4 24000) Lube banjo posted:Best advice is to make sure your GPU and CPU are seated correctly, and making sure all power cables are properly secured. Clear CMOS, check RAM again. Check QVL of your motherboard to see if RAM is compatible Roger that.
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Oct 5, 2019 19:14
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Edmond Dantes posted:Alright, ended up getting the Ryzen 3600 with an Asus Prime X570 Pro. Took me longer than I care to admit to set everything up, but it's up and running. I'll start with the game testing shortly. I had a similar problem. My Ryzen 2600 would idle at around 50 as well. I went into the BIOS and used a fan tuning feature. It just runs some tests automatically and then determines a fan curve. It made it more aggressive than the default and now I idle at 35. The default cpu cooler setting was at around 1100 rpms and it boosted it up to ~1500. The software I use to check the status are Ryzen Master and HWInfo. Both give identical readings. Mu Zeta fucked around with this message at 19:36 on Oct 5, 2019 |
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Oct 5, 2019 19:33
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So I unscrewed my CPU heatsink and when I pulled it out, the processor came out with it without me lifting the lever, that's definitely never happened to me before but I've never done that to a heatsink with freshly applied thermal paste.  Maybe this means it wasn't seated properly? I installed it exactly as the specification said to with the arrow pointed away from the lever and the lever was lowered in the proper place
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Oct 5, 2019 19:35
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That's fairly common with AMD. The "retention" lever just holds it by friction. It's not a solid lock like Intels. As long as you pulled straight up it should be fine.
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Oct 5, 2019 19:37
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Good to hear. I assume I need to somehow separate the CPU from the heatsink in order to reinstall it? I can't put the whole thing back with the lever up since the heatsink is in the way
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Oct 5, 2019 19:40
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Yeah grab the cpu by the sides and give it a light wiggle/twist. Then clean it up and reapply the paste fresh just to be safe. I use a qtip and rubbing alcohol to clean the cpu and the cooler.
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Oct 5, 2019 19:41
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Next question: I would have assumed my mobo would ship with a CMOS jumper but it's not in the parts list and I certainly don't see one. I assume I can just flathead screwdriver trick the jumper just like power?
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Oct 5, 2019 20:04
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kumba posted:Next question: I would have assumed my mobo would ship with a CMOS jumper but it's not in the parts list and I certainly don't see one. I assume I can just flathead screwdriver trick the jumper just like power? That's correct. You could also remove the CMOS battery for 20 seconds or so to be safe and I'm pretty sure that does the same thing.
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Oct 5, 2019 20:05
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fixed, should have followed goon instructions instead of box instructions. Thanks!
LLSix fucked around with this message at 21:34 on Oct 5, 2019 |
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Oct 5, 2019 20:27
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LLSix posted:This isn't working. Lights on mobo come on and all the fans, including on the CPU spin up, but monitors (plugged into the GTX 1080) don't show anything. Not even bootup screens. Want to eliminate the obvious first. I'd first try removing the GPU and connecting your monitor to the motherboard directly.
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Oct 5, 2019 20:33
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If you're using 2 sticks of RAM they have to be in the A2 and B2 slots so I wouldn't change that.VelociBacon posted:I'd first try removing the GPU and connecting your monitor to the motherboard directly. Does this work if the 3600 has no GPU?
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Oct 5, 2019 20:33
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No it doesn't.
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Oct 5, 2019 20:38
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Mu Zeta posted:Does this work if the 3600 has no GPU? Oh right, whoops. It wouldn't. e: LLsix maybe reseat the RAM, sometimes people don't push them down hard enough. e2: Sounds like you have multiple monitors hooked up - I'd just hook up 1 for now just to limit how many variables are in play. VelociBacon fucked around with this message at 20:43 on Oct 5, 2019 |
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Oct 5, 2019 20:39
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I'd try updating the bios anyway with the usb flash feature. https://www.msi.com/Motherboard/support/B450-GAMING-PRO-CARBON-AC According to the support page they had an update last month that "improves memory compatibility." I don't know when your mobo was manufactured so it could be a factor. Mu Zeta fucked around with this message at 20:46 on Oct 5, 2019 |
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Oct 5, 2019 20:44
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Pretty sure you need both power connections bud. Edit. To be clear I recall reading several posts elsewhere where people suffered instability with this board with just the 8 pin and ryzen 3000. Also could be a bios issue where they didn't flash the B450 board with the Ryzen 3000 compatible bios? Edit2. Good to hear! MikeC fucked around with this message at 21:37 on Oct 5, 2019 |
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Oct 5, 2019 21:30
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Mu Zeta posted:I'd try updating the bios anyway with the usb flash feature. This fixed it. Thank you! Box lied, I should have done what goons told me to do from the start. Thank you everyone for your advice!
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Oct 5, 2019 21:34
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MikeC posted:Pretty sure you need both power connections bud He should be ok without it. 99.999% of people don't need the extra extreme overclocking.
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Oct 5, 2019 21:35
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Reseated CPU after replacing thermal paste. Took out video card, removed CMOS battery for a half hour. Put battery back in, reinstalled video card. Still same exact behavior. Is the light on the GPU supposed to fade in and out during startup like this? Notice the CPU fan LED stays constant but the video card doesn't https://m.imgur.com/gallery/QFHI1j2 Edit: unplugged GPU from the power supply just to see what would happen, no change at all, then fully removed it, same thing kumba fucked around with this message at 22:43 on Oct 5, 2019 |
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Oct 5, 2019 22:10
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Stickman posted:Also update to the latest bios if you haven’t done so already. Also, double-check that you’re set to “Windows balanced” rather than “performance” as your power plan. Shouldn't it be on Ryzen Balanced if hes got the newest chipset drivers?
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Oct 5, 2019 23:13
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kumba posted:Reseated CPU after replacing thermal paste. Took out video card, removed CMOS battery for a half hour. Put battery back in, reinstalled video card. Still same exact behavior. CPU went in okay with the arrow pointing towards the lower left corner? You don't seem to have the case jumpers attached in that picture? Not sure if that would cause the problem but maybe? It bothers me that it won't even POST. Try hitting the DEL key, maybe its POSTing but not showing on the monitor? If there isn't an OS installed it will just power cycle infinitely, do you have a windows boot USB anywhere?
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Oct 5, 2019 23:48
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CPU went in just fine and yeah arrow bottom left I disconnected the case jumpers just to rule those out I plugged most of the stuff back in and tried a bunch of different USB ports with my win10 installer and still nothing different. Just power cycles every 30 seconds for eternity
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Oct 6, 2019 00:43
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grimcreaper posted:Shouldn't it be on Ryzen Balanced if hes got the newest chipset drivers? I was using Ryzen Balanced, but it was doing gently caress all for the frequency or temp. Turns out I was doing two things wrong, may be useful to someone down the line: 1) There's something going on with how the CPU reports frequency, neither HWInfo64 nor CPU-Z pick up the actual values, only Ryzen Master picks up the correct frequency (between 500 and 700 mhz when idling, while HWInfo was still saying ~3000). 2) AMD CPUs have two temp sensors, tctl and tdie:  From a bit of googling, I got: quote:The primary temperature reporting sensor of the AMD Ryzen™ processor is a sensor called “T Control,” or tCTL for short. The tCTL sensor is derived from the junction (Tj) temperature—the interface point between the die and heatspreader—but it may be offset on certain CPU models so that all models on the AM4 Platform have the same maximum tCTL value. This approach ensures that all AMD Ryzen™ processors have a consistent fan policy. So Tctl is used for controlling the fans, but the core temp is actually tdie (Tdie in HWInfo matches the temp reported by Ryzen Master), and tdie is quite a bit lower than tctl. I also ran the fan optimizer from the bios, which bumped the curves a bit. My CPU is now idling at 30~35C, and it's hitting 70-72 while under load, which seems to be mostly fine considering it's the stock cooler.
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Oct 6, 2019 00:53
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Wow I literally cannot get my ryzen to go under 1.5ghz even in power saver mode.
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Oct 6, 2019 00:57
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I pulled the trigger on my build and immediately got buyer's remorse over the shitshow that is updating the motherboard BIOS to support Ryzen 3600 without having an older gen AMD CPU on hand. With the quotes for BIOS flashing given by shops, it almost made me wish I had paid 100 extra and gotten an X570 board.
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Oct 6, 2019 01:14
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Reformatted my USB boot drive and recreated it just to be safe, no dice Plugged the keyboard back in to try and hit DEL on startup but it doesn't have power, which maybe is weird because the USB stick lights up
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Oct 6, 2019 01:23
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Might as well try your 750w psu before you start the RMA process
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Oct 6, 2019 01:32
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Amazon has the 3900X in-stock for $499.99 if anyone is looking.
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Oct 6, 2019 01:54
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A dumb question that I probably already know the answer to, but does it matter if the RAM I buy isn’t on the QVL for the motherboard? I’m looking at name brand RAM but the QVL only lists the more expensive stuff with heat sinks and RGB LEDs.
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Oct 6, 2019 02:02
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Mr. Apollo posted:A dumb question that I probably already know the answer to, but does it matter if the RAM I buy isn’t on the QVL for the motherboard? I’m looking at name brand RAM but the QVL only lists the more expensive stuff with heat sinks and RGB LEDs. Not really.
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Oct 6, 2019 02:15
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RAM not on the QVL may not be able to reach its full sticker rated speeds (which are usually an overclock), but all RAM should work at the JEDEC standardized speeds and timings. In the case of DDR4 the JEDEC speed for the majority of the kits out there is 2133 MHz and should work in any motherboard regardless of the QVL.
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Oct 6, 2019 03:05
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Installed a Wraith Max cooler on my Ryzen 3 2200G today, with the pre-applied paste. Doing a Prime95 small FFT test right now and it's been locked at around 74-75C for the past 10 minutes or so. That's fine right? Idles around 32-34C with the fan at ~1400 RPM. [edit] Temps are at stock speeds; no OC on anything. I was worried because the Wraith Max is a clamp style cooler, and during the install process the HSF shifted up a little bit after briefly making contact with the CPU when I was lining up the clamps before locking in. But quick search is telling me my temps are fine. [edit 2] ~30 mins in and temperature hasn't budged from 74-75C. Going to let it run for another 30 mins. teagone fucked around with this message at 03:48 on Oct 6, 2019 |
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Oct 6, 2019 03:30
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