|
kastein posted:Yes, or resurface it. Do the pilot bearing as well. Use name brand parts for the TOB and pilot, I had ones from an Exedy clutch kit (great clutch and pressure plate...) Fail in under 50k of well-trained manual operator use. NSK, Timken, Nation, FAG, and a few others are good, skip the unlabeled ones and no name brands. I bought a subaru TOB since they revised the part 4 or 5 years ago. I have an Exedy kit with the pilot bearing, I'll grab a name brand part though. It ended up being the guide pins. I blasted them with a propane torch for a while and they eventually popped loose. I took a wire brush to them and I'll be putting some anti-seize on them when I reassemble.
|
#
?
Apr 15, 2021 20:26
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 31, 2024 14:35 |
|
|
two_beer_bishes posted:I blasted them with a propane torch for a while and they eventually popped loose. That had to feel good.
|
|
#
?
Apr 15, 2021 20:30
|
|
|
Nice. Yeah, they can be a bastard, I'm surprised they were that bad though.
|
|
#
?
Apr 15, 2021 20:30
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:That had to feel good. It's such a relief! This has taken up so much of my free time over the last 3 weeks. I have a nice long weekend next week so I'll be able to get this poo poo finished up and get the car back on the road!
|
|
#
?
Apr 15, 2021 20:34
|
|
|
two_beer_bishes posted:I bought a subaru TOB since they revised the part 4 or 5 years ago. I have an Exedy kit with the pilot bearing, I'll grab a name brand part though. The guide pins on my shitbox Fit were also rusted, to the point that the transmission wouldn't separate more than a mm at the bottom and not at all at the top, where the pins were. Took some serious hits with a giant hammer to get it separated. Check also the holes the pins are supposed to go into. In my case they were also full of crap and I had to use a tiny wire wheel on a dremel to clean them up.
|
|
#
?
Apr 15, 2021 21:12
|
|
|
Here is my stupid question. What are people doing for insurance. 1. Covid driving a lot less But mostly this: 2. Multiple vehicles? My stable in a bit of order is: 2016 Ram 2500 4x4 --current comprehensive '69 Ford F150 2wd --no policies currently '99 Honda Civic -- suspended (covid) '07 Yamaha TW200 -- Liability , but have to buy 'a full year' at once currently. '87 Three wheeler (probably not able to put on a policy anyway) None, but it's not registered either & used off road . 90's Arctic Cat Snowmobile -Also not registered or insured. 60/40 fix /run time but it would be nice to know the costs of insurance. By august Will have another 1970 F250 4x4, Looking to pickup a 4wheeler also, used ~2010-2015 ish Yamaha or Honda. Single Driver no one else, so only one vehicle in use ever. Feels like a rip paying three, four, seven, eight single policies.
|
|
#
?
Apr 15, 2021 21:16
|
|
|
If the F150 / Civic / F250 are purely recreational / pleasure vehicles, you can probably get them onto a classic policy like Hagerty for next to nothing. Other than that, I price shop every six months when my insurance comes due and see if who is cheapest has changed by any noticeable amount.
|
|
#
?
Apr 15, 2021 21:20
|
|
|
mobby_6kl posted:The guide pins on my shitbox Fit were also rusted, to the point that the transmission wouldn't separate more than a mm at the bottom and not at all at the top, where the pins were. Took some serious hits with a giant hammer to get it separated. I didn't think to clean out the other side too, thanks for the suggestion
|
|
#
?
Apr 15, 2021 21:34
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:If the F150 / Civic / F250 are purely recreational / pleasure vehicles, you can probably get them onto a classic policy like Hagerty for next to nothing. Thanks, Ballpark I'm at $180/month when I add up all my current policies by month. Feels way to much. Single driver, no one else authorized or in my household even. Already doing 6/month or yearly policy renewals. Includes homeowners, an umbrella & multiply policy discounts. No recent speeding tickets in more than a decade. No accidents either. My current insurance is individual policies which sucks. Another 3 years before the civic becomes "classic" policy eligible. I am meeting with my agent, who consistently tells me I'm getting their best rates possible. My motorcycle policy is at ~12k miles per year, I maybe do 500. Definitely going ask about changing that policy. I've explored asking my agent whats the shortest time frame they will insure a vehicle, & just resigning to calling each day before going on a drive. * It's marginally cheaper* but getting pulled over & having proof of insurance would be a hassle.
|
|
#
?
Apr 15, 2021 21:40
|
|
|
two_beer_bishes posted:I didn't think to clean out the other side too, thanks for the suggestion Now is a good time to do the rear main seal while you've for the flywheel off too.
|
|
#
?
Apr 15, 2021 23:23
|
|
|
And if you go the resurface route (which you absolutely should, looking at that) make sure the place you take it to machines down the clutch cover mating surface (around the edge) the same amount as they do the pressure plate face. Every machine shop that handles this stuff should do it as a matter of course.... but I've heard stories.
|
|
#
?
Apr 16, 2021 00:01
|
|
|
Memento posted:And if you go the resurface route (which you absolutely should, looking at that) make sure the place you take it to machines down the clutch cover mating surface (around the edge) the same amount as they do the pressure plate face.  , I never even thought of that. But it makes perfect sense. Even a few thou off the friction surface means less clamping force.
|
|
#
?
Apr 16, 2021 00:55
|
|
|
Nebakenezzer posted:What are people's opinions on the late model Suzukis, specifically the SX4 and the Swift? I heard a rumor that the Japan-built Suzukis are well built, and the SX4 is a little wagon you can get in a manual and with awd. SX4 - I enjoyed test driving it on the road. Yes, it comes in manual. 6 speed manual iirc. 4wd isn't full time, it has a clutch pack triggered by traction control sensors not mechanical (again iirc). I am pretty sure it can't be engaged by driver's choice. I wondered what it'd feel like if that kicked in. The clutch pack is meant for very short driving in 4wd mode, and is supposed to not be over 30mph (iirc): exceeding either of those risks overheating the clutch pack. Anyway couldn't fit skis in it so didn't buy it, went with an outback instead where I put the seats flat with a tarp rather than arse around with roofracks. simplefish fucked around with this message at 23:47 on Apr 16, 2021 |
|
#
?
Apr 16, 2021 01:49
|
|
|
What is the link to the AI Facebook group?
|
|
#
?
Apr 16, 2021 02:04
|
|
|
https://www.facebook.com/groups/180737692131890
|
|
#
?
Apr 16, 2021 02:11
|
|
|
thanks m8
|
|
#
?
Apr 16, 2021 02:12
|
|
|
I thought you were already in there?
|
|
#
?
Apr 16, 2021 03:07
|
|
|
Hey car nerds. I need a tow rig recommendation. My use case is comfortably hauling my family of three, some gear, and an NC Miata on a trailer. Figure trailer package to be around 4,000lbs and I'd like a nice safety buffer tow capacity wise. Trailer would likely be a rented U Haul. I envision taking the family to further away race tracks and letting the family take the truck and explore the area while I do some laps. Budget is $15,000 give or take. Considering crew cab pickups or larger SUVs (F150? Expedition?). I despise GM, but if there's something that nails the sweet spot I could be convinced. I do as much of my own wrenching as possible so easy to work on is also a huge plus. I'm new to towing so whatever advice you could give would be helpful there also. I know there's plenty of options out there that could get the job done but I'm not sure which engines/transmissions/gear ratio/towing feature combinations to seek or avoid. Thanks!
|
|
#
?
Apr 16, 2021 19:14
|
|
|
U Haul trailers are both poo poo and very heavy. I would suggest starting with finding an open center car trailer which should be in the 1,500 lbs range (compared to a 2200+ lb uhaul). Add your car to that and you're around 4,000 lbs. This opens up a whole world of not-full-sized-pickups to choose from. (and go find an early 2000s land cruiser if one fits in your budget.....it will be a slug but it will get the job done reliably and with cheap repair parts) Motronic fucked around with this message at 23:00 on Apr 16, 2021 |
|
#
?
Apr 16, 2021 22:58
|
|
|
SynMoo posted:
Familiarize yourself with towing and how the truck, loaded and unloaded trailer handle before taking it on a long trip. Towing is hard on a vehicle so make sure change the transmission fluid regularly keep an eye on the condition of your brakes, and also figure out if your trailer has electric brakes or inertia brakes, get them serviced regularly too. You mention that you like to wrench, trailers can be assholes. Keep a test light, a volt meter, spare fuses, a small wire brush, electrical tape, and some extra trailer light bulbs in a little kit. You'll need one or more of those items on a regular basis unless you buy a brand new trailer. And even then after a couple years you'll probably need them anyway. If you have a light thats not working first thing to check is the bulb. If the bulb is good then the ground is probably lovely. Pro tip: corners are a good time to take a quick glance in the mirrors to check that you don't have a blown trailer tire. If your trailer has two axles, its not always immediately evident. I can count on less than one hand the amount of times I've had a tow vehicle tire blow out on me, but it would take all fingers, all toes and then some to count trailer tires that I've had blow out.. wesleywillis fucked around with this message at 00:44 on Apr 17, 2021 |
|
#
?
Apr 17, 2021 00:34
|
|
|
Paging anyone with knowledge as to how to source obscure connectors - my go-to Cycle Terminal hasn't helped me out this time. I have a 2016 Mercedes with "Keyless Go" - part of this feature is an infuriating and offensively loud warning chime reminding you "Don't Forget Your Key!" every time you simply open the loving door. I asked what could be done about it in the MB thread when I first got the car (apparently nothing) but it's finally driven me mad enough to do something about it myself. I spent an afternoon locating the goddamned speaker and figured I'd wire a relay activated on accessory power to disconnect the speaker's positive terminal when the car is off (so getting in/out of a parked car would no longer be so infuriating). I'm hoping to source the terminal so I don't have to cut the original wiring - here's a shot of the connector:  Look at the size of this loving speaker - it isn't a part of the infotainment system; it is exclusively used for beepy chimey fuckery.   For reference, this is bigger than the speaker in my wife's Leaf that warns pedestrians that there's an electric car on the prowl. Unreal. sarcastx fucked around with this message at 03:35 on Apr 17, 2021 |
|
#
?
Apr 17, 2021 03:32
|
|
|
STR posted:I thought you were already in there? My account was compromised, and I had to make a new one.
|
|
#
?
Apr 17, 2021 04:30
|
|
|
sarcastx posted:Paging anyone with knowledge as to how to source obscure connectors - my go-to Cycle Terminal hasn't helped me out this time. Does that annoying sound only happen when the in-car lights come on (like when you unlock the car as you walk up to it)? I'd just wire it so that the speaker is off when that circuit is active. Shouldn't be too hard, the biggest concern I would have relates to parasitic draw on the battery. I could do a simple arduino circuit or something for that (probably overkill) but I don't know enough about drain on battery systems to know whether it would eventually gently caress the battery.
|
|
#
?
Apr 17, 2021 04:39
|
|
|
Consider switching in a little 8 ohm resistor with the relay in the event that MB has a check for the speaker. It might throw a code if it doesn't see the load.
|
|
#
?
Apr 17, 2021 07:30
|
|
|
VelociBacon posted:Does that annoying sound only happen when the in-car lights come on (like when you unlock the car as you walk up to it)? As far as I'm aware it's impossible to open the driver's door without the sound going off besides disconnecting the speaker (or battery). Here's a sample if you wish to subject yourself. https://i.imgur.com/5Vy0rIt.mp4 spankmeister posted:Consider switching in a little 8 ohm resistor with the relay in the event that MB has a check for the speaker. It might throw a code if it doesn't see the load. How's this look? 
|
|
#
?
Apr 17, 2021 12:50
|
|
|
I was going to suggest just disconnecting it, the way we did back in the 70s and 80s when cars had this incredibly obnoxious tinny buzzer that would sound to fasten seat belts as soon as you sat down. That was the first thing to get ripped out on any car that had it, followed by the air pump on GM engines. ...but it appears that if you do that, it'll queer the BCM with a code? That's hosed up. About on the same level as me discovering that the turn signal relay-release sound (click) in my Ford Flex was actually a loving sound effect, played through the same speaker that you're dealing with above. Because everything in the car is digital. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 14:56 on Apr 17, 2021 |
|
#
?
Apr 17, 2021 14:53
|
|
|
GM's been playing the fake turn signal sound game for a good minute now. On most models, the click (and all warning sounds/chimes/etc) play through the LF speaker (unless you replace the factory radio and use a basic harness, then you lose all warning chimes, dings, etc, including the DING DING DING when the engine is overheating or loses oil pressure - have to use a specific adapter that listens on the LAN wires), also lose retained accessory power. Saturn did it with a piezo speaker behind the cluster on the Ion (despite using the same GM corporate radio on later models) and didn't run the RAP through the stereo, so it still stayed on until you opened a door. Guess they didn't want to modify the BCM and wiring on a mid-cycle refresh on a car destined to be a 1 generation vehicle.
|
|
#
?
Apr 17, 2021 15:25
|
|
|
sarcastx posted:Paging anyone with knowledge as to how to source obscure connectors - my go-to Cycle Terminal hasn't helped me out this time. You can try digikey or competitors for a connector, but check both male and female ends for part numbers first. It would narrow things down quite a bit.
|
|
#
?
Apr 17, 2021 15:58
|
|
|
If you can find a mark that tells me what company made the connector I can probably find the connector for you. Logo, makers marks, anything helps.
|
|
#
?
Apr 17, 2021 16:05
|
|
|
kastein posted:If you can find a mark that tells me what company made the connector I can probably find the connector for you. Logo, makers marks, anything helps. Thanks kastein - I've put together a bunch of shots in this album but I have a feeling this one here is the money shot:  As an aside, one of the photos in the first post contains the MB Part Number for the speaker itself - 205 820 10 02. It's worth mentioning that there is no separate "female connector" part attached to the speaker (I'm used to Subaru parts where there's a speaker with the wires soldered on and a female connector at the end of that wire), rather, the speaker body itself is a single plastic molded unit with the connector formed into that plastic. STR posted:...GM and artificial "clicker" noise I tested this out and yep - the speaker functions as the turn signal "clicker" also.
|
|
#
?
Apr 17, 2021 17:33
|
|
|
STR posted:GM's been playing the fake turn signal sound game for a good minute now. I got bit by this in my 03 Cavalier (I know). It came with an AM/FM only unit (not even tape! In 2003!), so I took it to Best Buy (I know) and got the car back with zero warning chimes. Called to complain, they said the seller should have told me about it, they could take the car back and undo it or wire the OEM into the trunk. I lived with it, though I killed the battery a couple of times because of leaving the dome light on.
|
|
#
?
Apr 17, 2021 17:42
|
|
|
Hi guys. This is not about a car, but a riding lawnmower. Similar enough, right? I think I've posted about this before, either last summer or the summer prior. I suspect there's an electrical issue at fault somewhere here that I haven't been able to diagnose, but perhaps not. The problem: riding lawnmower won't stay running. Events up to now: A week ago I attempted to start the mower. (Craftsman YS4500, probably 20 years old, ~100 running hours, battery was new last year.) Absolutely nothing happened when I turned the key, as if the battery was completely and fully dead. I pulled the battery out and put it on a trickle charger overnight. Today, I put the battery back in and attempted to start it, with the same problem: no response at all. I hooked it up to a car battery, put some new gas in, and after some cranking, it turned on and ran while still hooked up to the car battery. I left it running, connected to the car, for 5 or 10 minutes. After disconnecting the battery while the mower was running it stayed on, but engaging the mower blades caused it to die again after ten seconds. It still wouldn't start on its own after turning off. I took out a multimeter, set it on 20 DC (p sure about that) and measured 12.6 across the battery terminals after disconnecting one of the cables. I did not manage to hook it up and measure while it was running. Basically, a healthy, fully charged battery won't start the mower, and can't seem to keep it on while it's running. (I'm also 1000% positive this wasn't a case of the kill switch turning it off when I engaged the blades.) Why is a battery that measures a healthy voltage completely unable to start the mower, or keep it on? And if it's not an electrical system problem, what else would it be?
|
|
#
?
Apr 17, 2021 18:33
|
|
|
Your battery is actually dead and not healthy. You have proved this very effectively by demonstrating that the mower runs fine when it's connected to a good battery and quickly dies when that battery is removed. Measuring the open circuit voltage (with one or both cables disconnected) doesn't really tell you anything about the battery condition; without getting into too much technical detail, a lead acid battery can be in a state where it will maintain an apparently healthy voltage with no load connected, but the voltage immediately drops when you try to draw any significant current. You need to test it under load, either by measuring it in the circuit with the engine running, or by taking it to a auto shop that can measure it properly with a resistor bank. Or just get a new battery, it's like the number one problem with small engines every single time. For the record, one year of sitting without charging will definitely kill a motorcycle/etc battery, and trickle charging overnight may not be enough to fully charge it anyway. You should really keep your lawn mower on a battery tender over the winter. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 18:44 on Apr 17, 2021 |
|
#
?
Apr 17, 2021 18:39
|
|
|
sarcastx posted:Thanks kastein - I've put together a bunch of shots in this album but I have a feeling this one here is the money shot: It's a TE Connectivity part. https://rennlist.com/forums/cayenne-958-2011-2018/992216-connector-sources.html
|
|
#
?
Apr 17, 2021 19:35
|
|
|
sarcastx posted:Thanks kastein - I've put together a bunch of shots in this album but I have a feeling this one here is the money shot: Actual mb part https://www.google.ca/search?q=0495458428&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&hl=en-ca&client=safari Mouser seems to have stock for similar part and you can dig down the spec sheets to find a matching male connector part number: https://www.findchips.com/search/1418639 iv46vi fucked around with this message at 22:48 on Apr 17, 2021 |
|
#
?
Apr 17, 2021 20:11
|
|
|
I’m gonna preface this by saying that I am not a car guy at all but will try to provide information the best I can. I have a 2006 Kia Spectra 5 Hatchback that I’m wondering if is savable or if I need to start looking for something else. We’ve had a few issues and replaced the brakes and the battery so far. About a week ago I drove the car to the bank and back to work, I turned the car off and took the key out but the engine was still “running” but it sounded like it was knocking and didn’t sound right. I popped the hood and the belts were still running and there was oil on the engine. I checked the oil and it was dry. I looked it up and saw it was called dieseling and that it could be the fuel injector? We put oil in it, my fiancé took it to make sure we had fluids for everything and it broke down completely. We had it towed home and haven’t been able to get it to start since. Neither of us can read a computer even if we could borrow one from the auto parts store. Like I said, just trying to figure out if it’s a total loss or could potentially be fixed for a few hundred bucks.
|
|
#
?
Apr 17, 2021 20:33
|
|
|
1.) Brakes and a batteries are routine maintenance. Not repairs or "issues". 2.) you ran a $2500 car out of oil (or it ejected the oil somehow....it doesn't matter). The motor is trashed and not economically feasible to repair or replace.
|
|
#
?
Apr 17, 2021 21:04
|
|
|
Probably a stupid question, possibly not - how worthwhile is an OBD2 scanner over a generic code reader (like the one that I currently have)? Considering whether access to the live data (and, ideally, the ability to record it while driving & send it over to a more useful platform than a 2-inch screen or a cell phone) will be helpful in trying to figure out continued existing issues that my dealer doesn't acknowledge, especially considering the lack of availability to even get in to see them. But if the data they're recording isn't really useful for someone who's not a trained mechanic, informally or formally, not going to drop the money.
|
|
#
?
Apr 17, 2021 22:29
|
|
|
Looks like sharky and iv46vi beat me to it  The logos are pretty distinctive, it's just a matter of knowing which are which. For example P.E.D., Delphi, and Aptiv all mean you look for a matching connector in Aptiv's catalog. PED was Packard Electrical Division, a GM subsidiary, then changed names to Delphi, then to Aptiv. TE, AMP, and several others have recently merged into TE.
|
|
#
?
Apr 18, 2021 04:30
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 31, 2024 14:35 |
|
|
OK I got a question about my car that's been bugging me, it's a bizarre trait I've never had on other cars, I'll describe it best I can. Make/Model: 2015 Dodge Challenger R/T, 8-cyl 5.7 liter Transmission: 8-speed auto The weird thing: 99.99% of the time the car runs absolutely fine and as expected. But living as I do in an area with a lot of elderly drivers going 15 MPH in a 45 zone, I occasionally find myself behind one such driver for an extended time. Once a lane to pass finally opens up, often with a limited runway, I hit the gas to get around the guy, admittedly probably much harder than I should - I think I'm converting blood pressure to foot pressure. In these rare cases, those times when I REALLY need the power I know the car has, the engine roars to life, downshifts, does all the things the engine should do. The problem is, the car doesn't actually go anywhere. It's almost like the transmission shifts into neutral while the engine makes all its impressive noises, which does me no actual good. The car in in perfect shape, 30K miles, fresh oil of the correct rating, new plugs properly gapped, new tires properly inflated, I'm using good gas with 89 rating as recommended in the manual. All the things most people bring up, that to me don't really explain what's happening. The transmission works flawlessly except for those few times this has happened. It's maddening mostly because the car lets me down in the specific circumstances it's supposed to shine. My best theory is that this is somehow related to the traction control system - I'm slamming the gas far too hard too suddenly and the onboard system is trying to keep me from swinging the rear around and ending up in a ditch like an rear end in a top hat. The only thing that's keeping me from assuming this theory is accurate is that it doesn't feel like the TCS, if that makes any sense. My model doesn't allow me to turn off traction control entirely, I can put it in a sort of hybrid mode where traction control is reduced but I can't disable it entirely on this model. When I've done so I found no difference in behavior. This is also a nice bonus: I can't reproduce this problem at will. Whenever I've gotten on a stretch of road alone and tried to replicate this behavior, the car performed as expected. So the only other thing I can think is that by basically idling behind these people for a mile or two at 15MPH, then suddenly giving it heavy acceleration, it's some magic combination of traction control, those onboard calculations that adjust to your driving habits, maybe even the MDS system, just all combining into a magic stew of utter failure. Does anyone have any clues? Does any of this sound familiar? It's a real drag, and the only real problem I've had with this car. Scruffpuff fucked around with this message at 06:42 on Apr 18, 2021 |
|
#
?
Apr 18, 2021 06:31
|
|
