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FastestGunAlive posted:Thanks Stickman and ItBreathes. I figure I'll stick with 1080p and just upgrade down the road. Appreciate the note on Windows 10 upgrade as well. You're welcome!  Forgot the monitor recommendations. There are a few new very nice 1080p/144Hz/IPS Freesync monitors like the Acer VG240Y Pbiip (~$200) that are top-notch for gaming. The 1440p/144Hz/IPS monitors start around $380 for a good model like the Nixeus Edg27 v2. A 1660 Ti is adequate for 60+ fps in newer games so long as you're willing to turn down a few settings. Since you'll likely be gaming on only one monitor, I'd pair it with a nice-but-cheaper 60Hz monitor, maybe even 1440p or 4k. That's stretching my ability to make good recommendations, though - I'd think about your monitor budget and ask over in the monitor thread!
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Oct 15, 2019 01:17
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Beverly Cleavage posted:Buildzoid's at it again. This time helping/nerding out with memory choice: Of course I buy the RAM he says sucks one day before the video, I thought any E-die was good 😣. Let's hope it's still ok.
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Oct 15, 2019 01:40
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MaxxBot posted:Of course I buy the RAM he says sucks one day before the video, I thought any E-die was good 😣. Let's hope it's still ok. Which one was that? Keep in mind that 1) Buildzoid often tends towards the hyperbolic and 2) memory overclocking is a minor performance boost at best in most applications.
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Oct 15, 2019 02:23
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Stickman posted:You're welcome! Cheers. I’ll check that thread and do some research as I decide between 1080 or 1440. I figure 4K isn’t a must with this build
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Oct 15, 2019 02:41
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Stickman posted:Which one was that? Keep in mind that 1) Buildzoid often tends towards the hyperbolic and 2) memory overclocking is a minor performance boost at best in most applications. I know that his preferences are pretty niche but I was under the impression that the 3000MHz CL15 Crucial E-die and 3200MHZ CL16 E-die were roughly equivalent whereas he seems very wary of the latter.
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Oct 15, 2019 03:19
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No one can tell the differenc between 2666mzh RAM and 3600mhz RAM unless you run a benchmark. Buildzoid is just super detailed about the differences. It doesn't matter for 99% of people.
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Oct 15, 2019 03:22
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MaxxBot posted:I know that his preferences are pretty niche but I was under the impression that the 3000MHz CL15 Crucial E-die and 3200MHZ CL16 E-die were roughly equivalent whereas he seems very wary of the latter. If you're talking about the kit he discusses at 55:25, it's because it's potentially not E-die. The Crucial E-die kits are designated with "AES" in the model number (like the 3000/CL15 kit before it) and that one has "FSB" instead. You can check the one you ordered, but all the 3200/CL16 kits I'm seeing right now are AES, so there's a pretty good chance yours is too! E: It's also a 2400 kit, so that's probably why it's different memory! Stickman fucked around with this message at 03:34 on Oct 15, 2019 |
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Oct 15, 2019 03:31
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FastestGunAlive posted:Cheers. I’ll check that thread and do some research as I decide between 1080 or 1440. I figure 4K isn’t a must with this build 1440p will likely strain your budget friend. The cheapest GPU that can be safely recommended for 1440p @ 60+Hz is an RX 5700 (/XT) or an RTX 2060 super. You can try the sandwich tier which is around the Vega 56/64, GTX 1070ti, GTX 1080 but you will have to drop settings if you care about consistent FPS. A 1660Ti is a little thin IMO for 1440p, especially at 6GB.
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Oct 15, 2019 04:12
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MikeC posted:1440p will likely strain your budget friend. The cheapest GPU that can be safely recommended for 1440p @ 60+Hz is an RX 5700 (/XT) or an RTX 2060 super. You can try the sandwich tier which is around the Vega 56/64, GTX 1070ti, GTX 1080 but you will have to drop settings if you care about consistent FPS. A 1660Ti is a little thin IMO for 1440p, especially at 6GB. 1440p60 should be easily doable with a 1080. I did 1440p100 with only dropping a few settings. Then again I'm religious about reading tweak guides so that helped.
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Oct 15, 2019 05:22
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I'm currently using an RX 560, and I'm looking to upgrade. I've narrowed my selection down to: RX 470 R9 380X RX 580 As far as I can tell from my research (i.e. browsing techpowerup), those three should all be significantly more powerful than the RX 560 to varying degrees, but I wanted to get a sanity check. If it matters, I play at 1366x768. To be clear, this is based on browsing my local used market for what's available, and eliminating the ones that look like they don't have a good return on price-to-performance If I were to buy brand new, the only thing that'd fit into my budget would be a GTX 1050, which as far as I can tell wouldn't be that much better than the RX 560.
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Oct 15, 2019 07:00
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Stickman posted:Those are the best budget options, and I'd just save the $40 and get the Pro 4. ItBreathes posted:Pro4 boards for the last 6 years and have never had an issue with them. For 60hz gaming it'd just be a difference in ports at most. Thank you both, I'll go with the Pro. I'll see how the new system runs with the 1050ti before upgrading the gpu. I assume Seasonic are still good quality power supplies? I've been running an Antec made by Seasonic for 8 years, rock solid.
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Oct 15, 2019 07:48
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Those would all be decent upgrades. Unfortunately, the big risk in buying used AMD cards is that if they were previously used for mining there's a chance that they're flashed with a mining bios which won't work well (or at all) for gaming. If the seller didn't flash it back before sale, you'll have to try to find a suitable bios and flash it yourself before testing the card. Mining also puts extra wear on the fans, but usually not enough to be a concern. If there's a used card market where you can test the card and return it if doesn't work or see it in action before sale, that should be relatively safe! Also, 10X0 NVidia cards can't be flashed in the same fashion, so if you can find a used 1060 6GB in the same price range it should be a relatively safe purchase (and offer performance roughly equivalent to the 580). wormil posted:Thank you both, I'll go with the Pro. I'll see how the new system runs with the 1050ti before upgrading the gpu. I assume Seasonic are still good quality power supplies? I've been running an Antec made by Seasonic for 8 years, rock solid. Yes, the M12IIs are good quality though I'd still avoid running them outside the five-year warranty, if possible. Most psu will outlast their warranty by a decent amount, but there's a good chance they'll take other bits with them when they finally go! Stickman fucked around with this message at 08:04 on Oct 15, 2019 |
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Oct 15, 2019 07:53
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wormil posted:I assume Seasonic are still good quality power supplies? I've been running an Antec made by Seasonic for 8 years, rock solid. Be careful for these and read recent reviews. They buy their modular cables from a third-party vendor and the recent batch is terrible. They have 3-inch heatshrink cuffs filled with glue right near the connectors that are completely inflexible, so you can't bend them to pass through cable management holes in your case. I bought a Focus 550 Gold in April that was fine, and a Focus Plus 650 Gold with such bad cables I had to spend another $30 on cable extensions to make them manageable. AgentCow007 fucked around with this message at 15:35 on Oct 15, 2019 |
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Oct 15, 2019 15:30
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Howdy All!! Thinking about building a new gaming machine. I haven't built a new gaming PC in quite some time (it has been several years so am out of the loop). I have been mainly using a laptop but now want to build something pretty solid and was looking for some advice. It will mainly be used for gaming and a little software development. What country are you in? - United States What are you using the system for? Web/Office, mainly Gaming, Software Development, potentially some amateur photo editing. If you’re doing professional work, what software do you need to use? VS, VS Code, Jetbrains tools, Adobe Lightroom Classic to name a few What's your budget? No real budget but nothing crazy. Maybe under $2000? For monitor, I have an Acer 38" Widescreen. This guy - https://www.amazon.com/Acer-XR382CQK-bmijqphuzx-Response-Technology/dp/B075LQLJ52/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=acer+38%22&qid=1571157055&sr=8-1 I would like to run games as high as possible. I also would like to not have a gigantic case if possible. Let me know if there are any more details I should provide. Thanks!!
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Oct 15, 2019 17:35
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tngffl posted:Howdy All!! Thinking about building a new gaming machine. I haven't built a new gaming PC in quite some time (it has been several years so am out of the loop). I have been mainly using a laptop but now want to build something pretty solid and was looking for some advice. It will mainly be used for gaming and a little software development. To push that resolution at high quality you're gonna need to go stupid on your GPU. You'll need a 2080 Super and you'll still be cranking poo poo down on some games but you should achieve over 60fps on almost every game with high/ultra settings. Honestly 1600p ultrawide is a hard resolution to push at a high level of detail. My regular 2080 does 1440p ultrawide fine but some games will still dip below 60 at times.
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Oct 15, 2019 18:29
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AgentCow007 posted:Be careful for these and read recent reviews. They buy their modular cables from a third-party vendor and the recent batch is terrible. They have 3-inch heatshrink cuffs filled with glue right near the connectors that are completely inflexible, so you can't bend them to pass through cable management holes in your case. I bought a Focus 550 Gold in April that was fine, and a Focus Plus 650 Gold with such bad cables I had to spend another $30 on cable extensions to make them manageable. Ah, that sucks. I'll be wary.
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Oct 15, 2019 19:30
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tngffl posted:Howdy All!! Thinking about building a new gaming machine. I haven't built a new gaming PC in quite some time (it has been several years so am out of the loop). I have been mainly using a laptop but now want to build something pretty solid and was looking for some advice. It will mainly be used for gaming and a little software development. Yeah, if you're looking at benchmarks keep in mind that 1600p UW is ~67% more pixels than non-UW 1440p, so you can expect roughly 60% the FPS of non-UW 1440p. That said, besides turning down settings, you can also upscale from UW 1440p without too much of a quality hit (roughly 75% of the fps of non-UW 1440p), run demanding games in non-UW 1600p (~81% fps), or upscale from non-UW 1440p. Fortunately, with your budget you could fit a pretty hefty gpu! Benchmarks for the 5700 XT, 2070 Super, 2080 and 2080 Super + 2080 Ti. Here's what I'd start from: CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor ($194.79 @ OutletPC) Motherboard: ASRock X570 Pro4 ATX AM4 Motherboard ($163.69 @ OutletPC) Memory: Crucial Ballistix Sport LT 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($75.98 @ Amazon) Storage: HP EX920 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($108.89 @ OutletPC) Case: Fractal Design Meshify C ATX Mid Tower Case ($84.99 @ Walmart) Power Supply: Corsair RM (2019) 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($94.99 @ Newegg) Total: $723.33 A 3600 is the sweet spot for gaming, but spending an extra $135 to move up to a 3700x could help with compile times and any tasks that scale well beyond six cores. Similarly, 16gb of RAM is enough for gaming right now, but if your other tasks are sufficiently ram-heavy you might want to consider spending an extra $60 for 32GB. A good video card is a bit trickier to recommend here. Given you larger budget and monitor, I'd minimally recommend a 5700 XT (starts ~$410 for good models) or 2070 Super (starts around $500), which have similar performance but the 5700 XT lacks raytracing support. The PowerColor Red Dragon or Red Devil, Sapphire Pulse/Nitro, and Gigabyte Gaming are all good options for the 5700 XT, and EVGA black or XC Gaming are the best current 2070 Super deals. Moving up in performance gets expensive - the 2080 Super is only about a 10% performance boost over the 5700 XT/2070 Super and they start at $700 (the XC Ultra Gaming for $710 would be my choice). The 2080 Ti is a much better performance boost (~40%), but they're very expensive. Entry-level cards like the MSi Ventus start around $1,050, but I'd seriously consider paying $100 more for an EVGA with a giant cooler (and EVGA has great service). Also keep in mind that there's a good chance that it'll be superseded by NVidia's next generation sometime next year (we don't know when, and we don't have details, though).
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Oct 15, 2019 19:31
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AgentCow007 posted:Be careful for these and read recent reviews. They buy their modular cables from a third-party vendor and the recent batch is terrible. They have 3-inch heatshrink cuffs filled with glue right near the connectors that are completely inflexible, so you can't bend them to pass through cable management holes in your case. I bought a Focus 550 Gold in April that was fine, and a Focus Plus 650 Gold with such bad cables I had to spend another $30 on cable extensions to make them manageable. Thanks for the heads up - I haven't heard of this before!  Have you tried contacting Seasonic to see if they'd be willing to replace your cable set? No idea if it would work, but it might be worth a go.
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Oct 15, 2019 19:31
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I want another hard drive for bulk storage, is a $69 Seagate Terascale cloud drive a good drive? I am only afraid of getting something with shingled recording, I don't care too much about the speed so long as it is not the slowest hard drive available, which I assume SMR is really slow. Is there a a better bulk storage drive for less than $100?
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Oct 15, 2019 20:13
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Terascale isn't SMR and except for the Hitachi Ultrastar 7K3000 3TBthat's the best TB/$$ on bare drives that I see from a quick search. You might want to consider one the shucked 8TB WD white-label W80EZAZ drives that are selling for $100-110 on ebay right now. It's a slightly modified WD Red with some of the RAID features disabled. You'll probably need to cover or otherwise disable the third SATA pin for it to spin up in a desktop (I just used a pen knife to bend it up), but mine has worked wonderfully so far!
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Oct 15, 2019 21:36
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Stickman posted:Fantastic Info!! Another goal I would have would be for this to be as quiet as possible. What do you suggest for CPU coolers? Currently overall this is what I have based off your suggestions https://pcpartpicker.com/list/N9FCyk
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Oct 15, 2019 23:01
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I'm looking at the 2070 super, is there actually much of a difference between the evga black and xc ultra editions, I can't see how 30mhz boost and some leds adds £35 to the price. The zotac twin fan is also tempting as it's currently £45 cheaper than the black, but I don't really want to deal with sending it to Hong Kong if I need to RMA it down the line. Solly fucked around with this message at 23:25 on Oct 15, 2019 |
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Oct 15, 2019 23:23
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Solly posted:The zotac twin fan is also tempting as it's currently £45 cheaper than the black If I had to do it again, I'd probably get a different GPU.
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Oct 15, 2019 23:27
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tngffl posted:Another goal I would have would be for this to be as quiet as possible. What do you suggest for CPU coolers? Did you mean to get a micro ATX motherboard? Your case can fit a full ATX if you wanted to.
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Oct 15, 2019 23:29
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Solly posted:I'm looking at the 2070 super, is there actually much of a difference between the evga black and xc ultra editions, I can't see how 30mhz boost and some leds adds £35 to the price. AFAIK it's actually a lot more than 30mhz boost, the chips in the black cards don't boost very well. Try to find some benchmarks but I'd bet the XC Ultra does around 5-10% better with average samples for both cards.
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Oct 15, 2019 23:53
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Stickman posted:Terascale isn't SMR and except for the Hitachi Ultrastar 7K3000 3TBthat's the best TB/$$ on bare drives that I see from a quick search. Thanks! Unfortunately I want at least 4TB so I can backup my NAS. I found one other drive I think might be a slightly better deal - a $68 Amazon "renewed" 7200RPM 4TB HGST drive. I think I would be fine with like a manufacturer refurbished drive, assuming it still has a warranty at all, but is an Amazon renewed drive worth trusting? I like it simply because it would be 7200 instead of 5900RPM for the same price.
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Oct 15, 2019 23:58
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Mu Zeta posted:Did you mean to get a micro ATX motherboard? Your case can fit a full ATX if you wanted to. Good call....updated!
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Oct 16, 2019 00:27
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Any opinions on PCpartpicker's build guides? My friend is looking to build a gaming PC for his wife, is there anything terribly wrong with this one that he should replace? He still has $200-300 room in the budget. https://pcpartpicker.com/guide/t2wrxr/modest-intel-gaming-build
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Oct 16, 2019 08:21
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If you have ~$800 you'll get more value from an AMD system. Stickman has a good build in a post further up the page. e: You can keep the 1660ti video card. Good value at $250. Mu Zeta fucked around with this message at 09:20 on Oct 16, 2019 |
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Oct 16, 2019 09:10
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Solly posted:I'm looking at the 2070 super, is there actually much of a difference between the evga black and xc ultra editions, I can't see how 30mhz boost and some leds adds £35 to the price. The XC Ultra has a giant 3-slot heat sink which helps keep it quieter and cooler than the black. Usually the "XC Ultra" varieties have a custom pcb with extra VRM and a higher power limit for overclocking, but reddit posts seem to suggest that the power limit for the 2070 Super XC Ultra is currently the same as for the black edition. There's a possibility that there might be some higher-power custom bioses in the future, but for now I suspect there's not a big difference in performance. The black's cooler is good enough that I wouldn't pay much extra for an XC Ultra for a 2070 Super. tngffl posted:Another goal I would have would be for this to be as quiet as possible. What do you suggest for CPU coolers? The Scythe Mugen 5 Rev.B is a fantastic cooler with a noise/thermal profile that's nearly as good as the gold-standard Noctua D15/D15s, but for $30+ less. If you want something a little cheaper, the Arctic Freezer 34 or one of it's "esports" variants would still be a step up from stock.
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Oct 16, 2019 09:11
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FeastForCows posted:Any opinions on PCpartpicker's build guides? My friend is looking to build a gaming PC for his wife, is there anything terribly wrong with this one that he should replace? He still has $200-300 room in the budget. Mu Zeta posted:If you have ~$800 you'll get more value from an AMD system. Stickman has a good build in a post further up the page. Yeah, the 9400f is a decent cpu at $14, but a 2600/3600 + b450 will do everything you want it to do now and the 6-core/12-thread configuration will help with minimum frame rates and longevity (as will the much, much better drop-in cpu upgrade options). I'd also spend the $50-60 to upgrade the SSD to a 1TB Adata su800 or HP ex920, maybe ditching the spinny drive entirely or replacing it with an external drive, depending on what it's going to be used for. The Fractal Design Meshify C Mini is a nice upgrade over the MB Q300L, but if you stick with Q300L I'd add one or two 14mm intake fans. Artic F14s are good and not too expensive; the PST variant adds a daisy chain connector that allows you to connect multiple fans to one motherboard header without needing a splitter. E: If she plays current AAA games, moving up to a 2060, 2060 Super, 5700, or 5700 XT could be a worthwhile investment too. Or take some saving and put them towards a nice monitor! Stickman fucked around with this message at 09:27 on Oct 16, 2019 |
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Oct 16, 2019 09:22
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Stickman posted:Yeah, the 9400f is a decent cpu at $14, but a 2600/3600 + b450 will do everything you want it to do now and the 6-core/12-thread configuration will help with minimum frame rates and longevity (as will the much, much better drop-in cpu upgrade options). I'd also spend the $50-60 to upgrade the SSD to a 1TB Adata su800 or HP ex920, maybe ditching the spinny drive entirely or replacing it with an external drive, depending on what it's going to be used for. Thank you both! How does this look? PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor ($194.79 @ OutletPC) Motherboard: ASRock B450 Pro4 ATX AM4 Motherboard ($89.89 @ OutletPC) Memory: GeIL EVO POTENZA 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($58.99 @ Newegg) Storage: ADATA Ultimate SU800 1 TB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($97.99 @ Amazon) Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 1660 Ti 6 GB XC ULTRA BLACK GAMING Video Card ($253.98 @ Newegg) Case: Fractal Design Meshify C ATX Mid Tower Case ($89.99 @ Walmart) Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G3 550 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($74.98 @ Newegg) Case Fan: ARCTIC Arctic F14 PWM 77.3 CFM 140 mm Fan ($9.26 @ Amazon) Case Fan: ARCTIC Arctic F14 PWM 77.3 CFM 140 mm Fan ($9.26 @ Amazon) Total: $879.13 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-10-16 04:41 EDT-0400 I will give him the additional GPU options, no idea what kind of games she will be playing. vvvv Thanks! I replaced the memory. FeastForCows fucked around with this message at 10:00 on Oct 16, 2019 |
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Oct 16, 2019 09:42
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Looks good! I'd consider spending an extra $10 for this Corsair 3200 kit. The extra fans aren't strictly necessary with a Meshify C since it comes with both an intake and exhaust fan, but one or two 140mm PWM Arctics will be nicer than the stock 120mm DC-controlled intake. PWM makes setting up a temperature-controlled fan curve easy so it can be quieter while idle, too! E: Here's some Ultra/Very High benchmarks for the 5700 XT, 2070 Super, and 2060/2060 Super. Also the 1660 Ti. Stickman fucked around with this message at 09:53 on Oct 16, 2019 |
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Oct 16, 2019 09:51
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If I were looking for a cheap SSD to use as a StoreMI SSD what metrics should I be looking for? I'm thinking that TBW life would be important, along with sustained read and write?
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Oct 16, 2019 15:05
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Looking at these new high end motherboards that run dual M2 slots- do they each get their own drive letter or can you set it up that they end up as a big C drive (where everything always wants to be it seems). So if you populated each M2 SSD slot with a 1 Gig card could you have an nice speedy 2 Gig C M2 SSD drive? Sorry if this is a dumb question.
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Oct 16, 2019 16:00
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highmodulus posted:Looking at these new high end motherboards that run dual M2 slots- do they each get their own drive letter or can you set it up that they end up as a big C drive (where everything always wants to be it seems). They would be set up as separate drives by default but you can configure them as a single spanned or striped volume in Windows Disk Management. It should be mentioned that technically you'll likely get some slight latency from the second drive because usually those run through the chipset to the CPU while the primary M.2 slot goes straight to the CPU. In practice though the difference would likely be unnoticeable. Scruff McGruff fucked around with this message at 16:17 on Oct 16, 2019 |
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Oct 16, 2019 16:14
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I'm looking to build another PC before the end of the year. I haven't built a machine since 2014 (used to build almost yearly until everyone wanted to mine Bitcoins..). I'm not looking to do anything computationally crazy, just play some games here and there. I'm definitely a casual player (most intense game is GTA V). I'm definitely interested in mITX though (my current build is an mITX) and I'm having trouble figuring out what I want. I feel like my budget is around $1k (lower the better obviously) but I am looking for everything but storage (have 16TB on raid 0 right now and that will carry over). Ideally the mobo would support M2. My priorities are: Quiet, play GTA V at >60fps, good value. It sounds like Ryzen is the way to go right now? I don't plan on overclocking, just want a solid build. Any recommendations?
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Oct 16, 2019 19:51
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Any particular case you're interested in? I like the NZXT H200 but it's larger than most itx cases. I feel like you go any smaller it starts to get annoying to build.
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Oct 16, 2019 19:57
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Schadenboner posted:If I were looking for a cheap SSD to use as a StoreMI SSD what metrics should I be looking for? I'm thinking that TBW life would be important, along with sustained read and write? How cheap are you thinking? Honestly, you get better performance and more control by stretching for a good 500GB or 1TB drive and installing the OS on it along with any current games you're playing that could benefit from SSD load times. Also, be aware that StoreMI can also be a headache if either drive fails - it makes recovering data off the spinny disk much more difficult. That said, write endurance is important, but I wouldn't worry about it too much beyond keeping an eye on your drive's health with CrystalDisk every six months or so. Sustained write speed isn't important at all - you'll be getting HDD speeds on the initial miss and any SSD is going to be much, much faster than your HDD meaning transfer rates for the data caching are going to be exactly the same. Sustained read also isn't super important because most SSDs are going to be very close in terms of gaming performance and a 128/256GB drive with top-end sustained read is going to be within spitting distance of the cost of a 500GB Adata SU800. highmodulus posted:Looking at these new high end motherboards that run dual M2 slots- do they each get their own drive letter or can you set it up that they end up as a big C drive (where everything always wants to be it seems). Like Scruff McGruff said you can do it, but I'd advise against it. It's pretty easy to install programs/games/whatever to a separate drive, and it makes backing up and retaining important bits much easier if you ever need to reinstall the operating system.
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Oct 16, 2019 20:21
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Bank posted:I'm looking to build another PC before the end of the year. I haven't built a machine since 2014 (used to build almost yearly until everyone wanted to mine Bitcoins..). "ITX" and "quiet" are pretty much on opposite ends of the spectrum. ITX doesn't have to be ridiculously loud, but cases have less sound dampening and often put the GPU right up against a vent for better cooling. Tower cases are going to be the best bet - like Mu Zeta's suggestion of the NZXT H200, or the Fractal Design Nano S or BitFenix Prodigy. Here's a good place to start that'll definitely give you >60fps in GTA 5 (@1080p): PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 2600 3.4 GHz 6-Core Processor ($117.90 @ OutletPC) Motherboard: ASRock Fatal1ty B450 Gaming-ITX/ac Mini ITX AM4 Motherboard ($123.88 @ OutletPC) Memory: Crucial Ballistix Sport LT 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($74.99 @ Adorama) Storage: HP EX920 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($108.89 @ OutletPC) Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 1660 Ti 6 GB XC ULTRA BLACK GAMING Video Card ($253.98 @ Newegg) Case: NZXT H200 Mini ITX Tower Case ($68.95 @ Amazon) Power Supply: Corsair RM (2019) 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($88.98 @ Newegg) Total: $837.57 If you live near a Microcenter you can save $35 on the motherboard/cpu. The stock cooler on the 2600 is sufficient and should be a good bit quieter than the GPU, but if find it too loud an Arctic Freezer 34 should be quieter and cooler without breaking the bank (and give some overclocking headroom!)
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Oct 16, 2019 20:51
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