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Beach Bum posted:I didn't know what a speed wrench was until today. That's a nifty looking tool that I just ordered. I figure 1/2" is fine, right? Same as others I got 1/2" since I use mostly 1/2" on my pickup, very good for repetitive tasks. And cheap!
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# ? Apr 23, 2017 20:49 |
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# ? May 26, 2024 02:47 |
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FogHelmut posted:Does it give them more power, or just lighter weight/longer life? They don't slow down as they lose charge so you get maximum braps up until the battery is "empty". No need to buy a new tool. If anyone you know has a lithium ryobi set ask to borrow a battery and try it out. That said, acid green is outright a better colour.
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# ? Apr 23, 2017 22:02 |
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Would a non-lithium tool have the necessary cutoffs to prevent discharging too far? Don't Li-Ions really hate that?
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# ? Apr 23, 2017 22:24 |
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Beach Bum posted:I didn't know what a speed wrench was until today. That's a nifty looking tool that I just ordered. I figure 1/2" is fine, right? So looking it up, I've used them for years at my dad's old shop, I just never knew what they were called. Does anyone know if there is another name for those?
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# ? Apr 23, 2017 23:14 |
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I've called them a speed brace for a long time. I've heard them called a cheat wrench as well.
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# ? Apr 23, 2017 23:17 |
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InitialDave posted:Would a non-lithium tool have the necessary cutoffs to prevent discharging too far? Don't Li-Ions really hate that? That protection should be in the battery.
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# ? Apr 23, 2017 23:21 |
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Bake in ye olden times they had hand drills shaped liked that, so that's always what they've been in my mind. Miserable tools when you're trying to make a hole, I tried to use one in shop class as a kid and had no luck.
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# ? Apr 23, 2017 23:21 |
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I'm used to them being called speed braces. Makes sense because they look/work like a brace you use for carpentry. xzzy posted:Bake in ye olden times they had hand drills shaped liked that, so that's always what they've been in my mind.
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# ? Apr 23, 2017 23:23 |
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cakesmith handyman posted:They don't slow down as they lose charge so you get maximum braps up until the battery is "empty". No need to buy a new tool. If anyone you know has a lithium ryobi set ask to borrow a battery and try it out. Uh, there is no way in hell that a Li-On battery pack will fit into a drill made for a NI-CAD or NI-MH pack. poo poo is not interchangeable. Ever. In any way whatsoever.
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# ? Apr 23, 2017 23:26 |
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Johnny Aztec posted:Uh, there is no way in hell that a Li-On battery pack will fit into a drill made for a NI-CAD or NI-MH pack. I've used Dewalts new li-on batteries in my old (originally ni-cad) drill/impact driver. Works great, lighter and longer lasting. http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=127047
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# ? Apr 23, 2017 23:32 |
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Johnny Aztec posted:Uh, there is no way in hell that a Li-On battery pack will fit into a drill made for a NI-CAD or NI-MH pack. https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DC9182-18V-Lithium-Battery/dp/B00OKK87FG Lithium Ion for use in all 18 volt dewalt drills.
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# ? Apr 23, 2017 23:46 |
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Memento posted:I've called them a speed brace for a long time. I've heard them called a cheat wrench as well. Goddamn, yeah cheater wrench, that rings a bell now. On a similar note of differing tool names, pipe wrenches are known as stillsons where I'm from. I had no idea what it was for years but apparently that was one of the more popular pipe wrench manufacturer's.
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# ? Apr 23, 2017 23:55 |
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cakesmith handyman posted:They don't slow down as they lose charge so you get maximum braps up until the battery is "empty". No need to buy a new tool. If anyone you know has a lithium ryobi set ask to borrow a battery and try it out. Or on the other hand just buy a Ryobi LiOn set cause goddamn they are so unexpectedly good for the cheap rear end price
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# ? Apr 24, 2017 00:03 |
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Yeah a Stilson for me is a massive adjustable wrench with a sawtooth pattern on the teeth.
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# ? Apr 24, 2017 00:12 |
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Johnny Aztec posted:Uh, there is no way in hell that a Li-On battery pack will fit into a drill made for a NI-CAD or NI-MH pack. works for almost all ryobi 18v tools made in the last 10 years
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# ? Apr 24, 2017 00:21 |
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cakesmith handyman posted:They don't slow down as they lose charge so you get maximum braps up until the battery is "empty". No need to buy a new tool. If anyone you know has a lithium ryobi set ask to borrow a battery and try it out. Didn't know they did that.
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# ? Apr 24, 2017 00:23 |
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xzzy posted:Miserable tools when you're trying to make a hole, I tried to use one in shop class as a kid and had no luck. Actually they rock for making holes in wood. But you need the correct bits and I would bet a kid in shop class had mediocre equipment and probably not great instruction.
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# ? Apr 24, 2017 00:42 |
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Johnny Aztec posted:Uh, there is no way in hell that a Li-On battery pack will fit into a drill made for a NI-CAD or NI-MH pack. All Ryobi one plus tools will take nicad or lithium ion batteries of the one plus series. Protection is built into the batteries, and the new chargers will charge both chemistries. You could buy a new set of tools, which would bring a couple of new batteries and a charger, plus new tools. My Makita 18V lithium gear has basically replaced corded tools for everything I do aside from a grinder, table and miter saw. sharkytm fucked around with this message at 01:04 on Apr 24, 2017 |
# ? Apr 24, 2017 01:01 |
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CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:Or on the other hand just buy a Ryobi LiOn set cause goddamn they are so unexpectedly good for the cheap rear end price It was actually cheaper for me to buy one of the kits that included two new drills and a battery than to buy a new battery alone, so I did.
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# ? Apr 24, 2017 01:36 |
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wolrah posted:It was actually cheaper for me to buy one of the kits that included two new drills and a battery than to buy a new battery alone, so I did. This. I wanted a few battery spares, just got a few kits. The 5Amp batteries are worth the standalone price tho, they last a ridiculous amount of time.
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# ? Apr 24, 2017 02:12 |
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GopherFlats posted:Goddamn, yeah cheater wrench, that rings a bell now. Stillson wenches have a spring in the jaw so that the harder they're torqued, the tighter they grip. Haven't come up yet with a better wrench for removing black/galv pipe.
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# ? Apr 24, 2017 03:15 |
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Appreciate the advice on impacts. Coincidentally, just this weekend I had the opportunity to do some suspension work on my car with a cordless impact my buddy owns. Getting lug nuts off immediately and spinning them back on to be finished by hand was loving glorious and I still think I want one. Wasn't aware that torque sticks couldn't be used with them, though. ...That being said, I don't think I know a single person IRL who actually uses a torque wrench on their lug nuts. I always just tighten them to "not gonna fall off" by hand and haven't had any problems.
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# ? Apr 24, 2017 07:26 |
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Fifty Three posted:Appreciate the advice on impacts. Coincidentally, just this weekend I had the opportunity to do some suspension work on my car with a cordless impact my buddy owns. Getting lug nuts off immediately and spinning them back on to be finished by hand was loving glorious and I still think I want one. Wasn't aware that torque sticks couldn't be used with them, though. So how many people do you know that had problems with their wheels?
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# ? Apr 24, 2017 07:43 |
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GopherFlats posted:Goddamn, yeah cheater wrench, that rings a bell now. Anyone that's been US DoD is probably gonna call it a speed handle.
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# ? Apr 24, 2017 09:19 |
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My personal Worst spare wheel location award goes to: Peugeot 306. 15 years of doing muddy lanes, everything underneath the car well and truly seized with mud. Spare wheel is located under the car in a cage, cage is lowered by turning a bolt in the boot. But not an average bolt. A wierd oval headed bolt with a curved concave slot along its shortest section. Special unique fit for the butt end of the wheel wrench. You're supposed to use it like a screwdriver with the socket end pointed at the sky and the handle slots into the bolt. Imagine a giant rounded - off flat head, with a bolt style thread and just to make it harder have it be seized up with 15 years of mud as the spare had never even been looked at so the mechanism was probably unmoved since it left the factory. Add to this that the end of the wheel brace was a bit scraped up from having to lower the vehicle onto it to use its weight as leverage to cracking the wheel nuts free. Honestly it's like they tried to make the worst fitting interface on something that even when new would have required reasonable force to get free. Additionally you can force the wrench to fit in the slot sideways rather than pointing upward. But since you're trying to undo a seized bolt with essentially a round tube fitted in a rounded slot, you need a lot of downwards pressure keep it in. Hope you enjoy scraping your knuckles repeatedly across the corrugated boot floor pan for hours as you manage to turn the bolt about 1/8th of a turn per knuckle scrape. After hours of swearing at it, I managed to get it free like the caveman I am by bending the cage enough to pop free using a large rock I found in a nearby field.
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# ? Apr 24, 2017 14:21 |
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Captain Hair posted:My personal Worst spare wheel location award goes to: Peugeot 306. Why are you using a 15 year old wheel? Also did you never get new tires in 15 years?
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# ? Apr 24, 2017 14:32 |
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SEKCobra posted:Why are you using a 15 year old wheel? Also did you never get new tires in 15 years? I'd be assuming the spare never got changed, as I know the spares on any of my vehicles tend to be horridly forgotten. Which I should be better about, but, I spend enough on rubbers.
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# ? Apr 24, 2017 14:51 |
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I pulled the original spare out of '66 Corvette when I bought it in 2008. Nobody gives a drat about spares.
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# ? Apr 24, 2017 14:52 |
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The underslung cage-mounted spare for Citroens & Peugeots never used to be a problem in terms of access or condition. It just wasn't there, because some fucker had nicked it.
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# ? Apr 24, 2017 15:01 |
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SEKCobra posted:So how many people do you know that had problems with their wheels?
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# ? Apr 24, 2017 15:06 |
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InitialDave posted:The underslung cage-mounted spare for Citroens & Peugeots never used to be a problem in terms of access or condition. Were they the ones where the spare wheel was also an alloy and the cage could be undone from the underneath? So the local scrotes would nick the spares from 4 cars and have a complete set for themselves - and no-one would notice they had been stolen?
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# ? Apr 24, 2017 15:24 |
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spog posted:Were they the ones where the spare wheel was also an alloy and the cage could be undone from the underneath? lol 5 including the spare
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# ? Apr 24, 2017 15:26 |
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Godholio posted:Nobody gives a drat about spares. This. I've yet to ever buy a car that had the spare actually inflated, much less actually changed at some point. Having the spare mounted to the bottom of the vehicle is very much a thing for pickup trucks and some minivans in the US, you're lucky if you can even get the drat thing dropped without a serious fight if the vehicle is more than a couple of years old.
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# ? Apr 24, 2017 15:33 |
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I had a 206sw with the opposite problem, the bolt/cage rattled itself undone and dropped my spare on the road behind me at 70mph like laying a mine. Right into the front grill of the saab 6 inches off my arse.
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# ? Apr 24, 2017 17:06 |
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Captain Hair posted:My personal Worst spare wheel location award goes to: Peugeot 306. loving Peugeot. My '08 308 SW still had the spare in the cage underneath the car. They improved the bolt in the boot though. It was a regular hex bolt if i remember right. They still put all the emergency tools and the jack in a plastic box next to the spare. Of course the box wasn't sealed or anything so everything was completely rusted to poo poo. It was even more fun on a 205 though. Those didn't have the bolt in the boot. The cage was held on by a bolt underneath the car so it was either completely seized or the latch just fell apart on the road.
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# ? Apr 24, 2017 17:07 |
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SEKCobra posted:Why are you using a 15 year old wheel? Also did you never get new tires in 15 years? I'd had a full set about 2 years previous to needing the spare, but honestly I was real dumb and had never bothered replacing the spare. I used it for about half an hour in total, limped home in it for a cuppa tea then over to the garage once they'd ordered the tyres in. Spare tyre was junked and replaced with the 1 good front tyre I had left. I got part worns too, as sure enough about a week later I got another metal rod through a tyre. They were relaying the road surface on the lane I went down daily. But the stuff they use is just crushed up concrete and debris so it's filled with metal rebar and such for about a month each time they do it. I usually take the dog for a walk and pick up all the bits as I walk down, usually a good 50 or so bits of metal scrap waiting to leap into my tyres.
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# ? Apr 24, 2017 17:41 |
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spog posted:Were they the ones where the spare wheel was also an alloy and the cage could be undone from the underneath?
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# ? Apr 24, 2017 17:52 |
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Oh here's a better one, the spare in the multipla is under the boot floor, lowered by a loving bevel drive wire cable winch. Driven by a hex head embedded in the boot floor. Of course they're all rusted to gently caress so the winch is siezed, the cable is flakes arranged in a line, the wheel is rusted to the end of the cable. As Fiats go it's a loving work of art.
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# ? Apr 24, 2017 19:36 |
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The Peugeot ones, like on the 306 and 106 would rust away so you would be driving along and hear a bang and see your spare laying in the road behind you. I usually took the whole lot out and just strapped it into the boot.
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# ? Apr 24, 2017 19:40 |
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# ? May 26, 2024 02:47 |
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Oops.
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# ? Apr 24, 2017 21:25 |