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The pickup has plenty of room, so it probably not really important which intake is on the engine. The van would be more restricted if at all - which honestly I don't think it is, since they just put a big box over it. Still, a cursory glance at it to see if there's any major differences would probably be prudent. For the exhaust manifolds, same. Take a quick look to see if the outlets are radically different. If they're just a little off, some creative bending and maybe an exhaust shop? Or swap them, which is probably best for working with the existing exhaust.
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Nov 21, 2022 23:02
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Well, I got some work done tonight. Got the injectors off the throttle body, got most of the bolts holding the accessories on removed, and got almost all the electrical harness disconnected. Need to remove the distributor cap, the rest of the grounds, and finish the throttle body and accessories and then I think I'll be good to go under the truck to get the exhaust disconnected, the transmission disconnected, pull the oil filter adapter since it's on the bottom of the engine, and then I think I'll be good to hook it up and undo the motor mounts? Depending on how jacked up the exhaust is I might also just order a new Y pipe, there are some spots under there where it feels like I could give the exhaust a good rap with a wrench and go straight through. I wish cats weren't so expensive, I'd just do the whole exhaust but I think one of the most restrictive parts is going to be the 30 year old pellet catalytic converter so it would be a waste. And legally in CO a professional has to install a new catalytic converter which adds even more expense. I can't figure out how to remove the injector wiring from the throttle body, Kastein, have you had to do that? The Eric the Car Guy video I saw he wasn't re-using the TBI so he just snipped the wires. I'd like to figure out how to get the plastic bits off so I can use one from the new engine if it has them, I forget. The plastic retainer tab snapped off one of them and I don't want to rely on it staying in place only half-secured. I also think I'm going to get new throttle body gaskets, this thing is nasty. And a new thermostat, this one has rusty coolant all over it and it's a "might as well" kind of thing. As far as the pickup having a lot of room, this is definitely the first time I've sat in the engine bay to work on a vehicle. Also the biggest vehicle I've worked on, I'm 5'11-6'1 depending on how my posture is for the day and I can barely reach some parts standing on the ground. 22 Eargesplitten fucked around with this message at 04:13 on Nov 22, 2022 |
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Nov 22, 2022 04:09
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The injector harness kind of pries out the front towards the grille. It threw me for a minute too, it's a rubber grommet thing on the harness because it will have a slight vacuum on it when the air filter is dirty and you're full throttle. You don't actually have to pull the injectors off the throttle body, I just took the unit off whole with the 3 bolts. You'll definitely want a new gasket for mounting it to the intake, there are a few styles, luckily they all came in the throttle body rebuild kit I bought (and didn't end up using yet) so I just used the one that matched the old one. Distributor cap screws are... I think 4.5 or 5.5mm, can't remember which, that was pretty annoying. They're very easy to twist off (I broke the back one) but at least you can usually grab the stub from under the removed distributor and screw it all the way down and through using pliers.
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Nov 22, 2022 04:37
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Yeah I didn't realize that the two bolts on the sides were holding the throttle body on because they are very odd-looking, I thought they were for something else and the bolts holding it on were under the injectors. I'll try pulling the harness out like that tomorrow, then. I'm hoping to pick up the pace tomorrow and Wednesday because I'm going to be out of town Thursday and Friday visiting family. I need to get this thing out of the garage, my friend's girlfriend wants to do the brakes on her Land Cruiser.
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Nov 22, 2022 05:20
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Slow progress is still progress I suppose. I got the water pump and AC assembly removed from the front of the engine, I've almost got the power steering/alternator combination off but I need to bring my prybar over. The pulley for the power steering is loose enough that it's spinning freely when I use the puller, so I need to apply some leverage to hold it tight and get it pulled the rest of the way off. Throttle body is off, manifolds are off the new engine, all the electrical stuff on the top of the engine is disconnected, the only things holding the engine in now are the manifolds, motor mounts, bellhousing bolts, and the vacuum line to the brake booster. Speaking of that, I think I need a new hard portion of the line from the intake manifold to the brake booster, I heard a crack as I was trying to get it off and one section is definitely kinked. I'm not sure what to look for on Rockauto for that, anyone know the term? The manifolds haven't been nearly the nightmare I expected so far, not sure why. They are heavily oxidized and look nasty but are coming off without issue.
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Dec 6, 2022 18:47
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If the bolts are coming out, consider yourself lucky and don't push your luck any further than you need to. Oh, I hope you have a timing light. It turns out you need one for these loving things. Strongly recommend cleaning the timing indicator strip on the timing cover up while it's accessible, I used a can of brakleen and a toothbrush held in my fingertips at a funny angle. It's just to the driver side of the top of the harmonic balancer and looks like this, at least on a factory timing cover:  The widest notch with the timing mark on the balancer almost centered on it is 0°BTDC. More advanced = Mark will be further CCW. Turning the distributor CCW advances timing. If you are too far out of whack with way too much advance like I was you may need to pull the distributor and turn the rotor a tooth or two CCW so you can get more CW angle out of it before the bump on the distributor hits the ignition coil. If you do this expect to need to turn the oil pump drive tang deep in the engine, a long clean flat blade screwdriver will do the trick nicely, if you get it wrong the distributor won't fully seat in the engine. You can fiddlefuck the oil pump drive gear any number of times before getting it right, it's not alignment critical, you'll just be annoyed. The procedure is loosen the distributor hold down bolt till you can deliberately (but not easily - you want it to stay where you put it, but be able to turn it by hand without it suddenly jerking) turn the distributor. Unplug the timing set connector to disable ECU ignition timing control, warm the engine up fully (or as fully as you can - a buttload of timing advance will make the engine run cool, allegedly), then put your timing light on cyl 1 (at the distributor is better, less chance of melting the pickup on the header) plug wire and aim your handheld epilepsy deathray / stroboscopic grease buildup illuminator device down into the bowels of the belt drive so you can see the timing marks and fiddle the distributor till you line the mark up on 0 degrees. Let it run a bit longer, make sure the timing stays the same, then shut it down and tighten the distributor bolt. The timing set connector appearance and location depends on model and year. On a B body I can tell you it's a 2 pin connector just over the passenger valve cover near the front, one of the how to videos I watched on a k series it was a one pin connector near the harness on the passenger firewall. The harbor freight 30 dollar timing light is perfectly adequate for this. If you want you can almost definitely just keep it very clean and return it after, too. If I hadn't looked like I went swimming in the la brea tar pits when I got to this point, I would have had a chance at that.
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Dec 7, 2022 08:22
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22 Eargesplitten posted:I think I need a new hard portion of the line from the intake manifold to the brake booster, I heard a crack as I was trying to get it off and one section is definitely kinked. I'm not sure what to look for on Rockauto for that, anyone know the term? I've always replaced that with either a solid length of vacuum hose, copper tubing, or polyethylene tubing (like oil pressure gauge tubing) depending on length and size. Might be able to get the black plastic tubing they use from Rock, or GM? edit: I personally prefer the copper, since it doesn't become brittle and gently caress up like that. Usually.
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Dec 7, 2022 23:43
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Good idea on the vacuum hose. The old one was already metal and it cracked really easy. how do you get the threaded plug part on, though? I ended up accidentally bending the hell out of the power steering pulley applying pressure to it with what I think was a too-large pulley puller and a crowbar, so I'll need to get a new one and possibly even a new pump if I end up having to cut it off the pump. Frustrating that one of the things that should come off easy has been such a mess. Anyone have experience with the bellhousing bolts on these? I can get to some of these from the bottom but I'm thinking of lowering the engine onto either the frame or a couple jack stands and then getting over the top of the engine to get to the others with a bit better of an angle. I think all that's left is pulling the old distributor to make sure I don't bend it like the one on the new engine got bent by the hoist's chain, undoing the motor mounts, and the bellhousing bolts. Then I can get the old motor out, clean up the new one, replace the motor mounts, and start putting it back together. I really hope this new engine lasts, I am not doing this again.
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Dec 8, 2022 06:28
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That should be fine. I usually get them from below with a set of long extensions and a ujoint but it's not like you care about the old block and head surfaces where it'll land on the frame. If memory serves they're either 9/16 or 5/8 head. For the vacuum line, part of it is metal I think? I'm not sure. Anyways, that's just for factory assembly line and budget reasons, I think, you could use stiff nylon braid based vacuum line of the right diameter to patch it or even replace it. Check mid 90s XJs at the yard if you don't want to buy new, IIRC they each have like a foot of it on the booster vacuum line.
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Dec 8, 2022 10:45
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Dunno if you knew this it not but there are pulley pullers you can rent from auto parts stores to prevent this. You can't really pry them off from one side without that happening since they need to come straight away from the shaft.
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Dec 8, 2022 15:29
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Good idea on the vacuum hose. The old one was already metal and it cracked really easy. how do you get the threaded plug part on, though? Mine's an old square body, so things are slightly different, but I've had a bunch of different manifolds on over the years and eventually just cut the factory steel line pretty close to where it bends around to aim towards the back of the engine, and then again where it bends around the back of the engine and just run vacuum hose that's clamped on the steel line nubs in between. It's worked great for years. If yours doesn't have enough good metal left for that, I believe the brass fitting that goes into the manifold is either 1/4 or 1/8 NPT, and the threads in that fitting take a 3/8 NPT possibly? I'm halfway around the world from my truck right now and can't check, unfortunately. Easiest option may be to take that brass fitting down to ACE (or wherever) and get whichever elbow fitting either threads into it (if you want to keep the factory fitting) or matches its threads and will go straight into the manifold. I seem to remember it's 3/8 vacuum hose. Alternatively, there's a used one for sale on ebay right now, that I believe should work for your truck. https://www.ebay.com/itm/284969692594 22 Eargesplitten posted:I ended up accidentally bending the hell out of the power steering pulley applying pressure to it with what I think was a too-large pulley puller and a crowbar, so I'll need to get a new one and possibly even a new pump if I end up having to cut it off the pump. Frustrating that one of the things that should come off easy has been such a mess. Do you have an actual power steering pulley puller available? If not, rent one from your nearest autoparts store, it will make everything easier. In my experience, even with the correct puller these pulleys like to bend. Autozone sells new pulleys for ~$30 and they work just fine. At this point, I'd concentrate on saving the pump if it worked and wasn't too leaky. It's getting harder and harder to get replacement pumps that aren't complete poo poo. 22 Eargesplitten posted:Anyone have experience with the bellhousing bolts on these? I can get to some of these from the bottom but I'm thinking of lowering the engine onto either the frame or a couple jack stands and then getting over the top of the engine to get to the others with a bit better of an angle. I think all that's left is pulling the old distributor to make sure I don't bend it like the one on the new engine got bent by the hoist's chain, undoing the motor mounts, and the bellhousing bolts. Then I can get the old motor out, clean up the new one, replace the motor mounts, and start putting it back together. Like Kastein, I usually just get them all from below with a bunch of extensions, but I think if the distributor is pulled, you can get the top few from above even without dropping the engine, it'll just be tighter. I also think they're 9/16 head bolts. If the engine ran well before it was pulled, short of dropping it on the crank, it ought to be just fine once you've got it installed. These TBI motors are pretty decent when they aren't being spun to the moon all the time and are taken care of. Hell, I know from experience that sans oil, with three shattered pistons, you can still do a 60 mile drive at 90mph with one (the racket, oh god, the racket).
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Dec 8, 2022 15:41
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A Small Car posted:Mine's an old square body, so things are slightly different, but I've had a bunch of different manifolds on over the years and eventually just cut the factory steel line pretty close to where it bends around to aim towards the back of the engine, and then again where it bends around the back of the engine and just run vacuum hose that's clamped on the steel line nubs in between. It's worked great for years. If yours doesn't have enough good metal left for that, I believe the brass fitting that goes into the manifold is either 1/4 or 1/8 NPT, and the threads in that fitting take a 3/8 NPT possibly? I'm halfway around the world from my truck right now and can't check, unfortunately. Easiest option may be to take that brass fitting down to ACE (or wherever) and get whichever elbow fitting either threads into it (if you want to keep the factory fitting) or matches its threads and will go straight into the manifold. I seem to remember it's 3/8 vacuum hose. Maybe this is a dumb question, but how does it get held into the fitting? I might get the used one but it says it's for up to '91 and while it looks right I'm hesitant to spend $50 on a "should work" on this shitbox. quote:Do you have an actual power steering pulley puller available? If not, rent one from your nearest autoparts store, it will make everything easier. In my experience, even with the correct puller these pulleys like to bend. Autozone sells new pulleys for ~$30 and they work just fine. At this point, I'd concentrate on saving the pump if it worked and wasn't too leaky. It's getting harder and harder to get replacement pumps that aren't complete poo poo. I did use a 2 ton puller that started getting it loose but didn't quite get it, then I tried a 5 ton that I think just didn't fit and I didn't realize until I messed up the pulley. I tried applying heat behind the pulley which might have ruined the pump apparently, I guess there's rubber seals in there that probably melted. Welp. At this point I'm thinking I'll sawzall off the pulley and replace both the pump and pulley. quote:Like Kastein, I usually just get them all from below with a bunch of extensions, but I think if the distributor is pulled, you can get the top few from above even without dropping the engine, it'll just be tighter. I also think they're 9/16 head bolts. I'll try to reach them from underneath then, I figure the less I have to do when it's on the hoist the happier I will be. There's no mechanical lockout so I'm trusting my life/health to the hydraulics. On the topic of the new engine, I realized the guy that pulled it didn't seal up the coolant holes coming from the water pump, is there any way that I should flush it out to make sure I don't have a bunch of crap in there? The intake is plugged up with a rag and I put paper towels in the exhaust ports when I pulled the headers so that should all be fine but it seems like part of this engine's cause of death may have been rusty coolant and I don't want to have that happen again.
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Dec 8, 2022 18:10
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Maybe this is a dumb question, but how does it get held into the fitting? I might get the used one but it says it's for up to '91 and while it looks right I'm hesitant to spend $50 on a "should work" on this shitbox. It's flared like a brake line, I think that's what you're asking. The one I linked to is from a suburban, but should work for any of the pre-vortec TBI motors (through 1995. 1996 should be the first year for the vortec). It sure looks like the one you have pictured here: How much is actually left of yours? If there's enough of the tube after that fitting coming off the manifold, just use vacuum line and hose clamps, it'll be fine. 22 Eargesplitten posted:I did use a 2 ton puller that started getting it loose but didn't quite get it, then I tried a 5 ton that I think just didn't fit and I didn't realize until I messed up the pulley. I tried applying heat behind the pulley which might have ruined the pump apparently, I guess there's rubber seals in there that probably melted. Welp. At this point I'm thinking I'll sawzall off the pulley and replace both the pump and pulley. Oof. At least parts store pumps are cheap. If you've gotten the pulley far enough forward, you may be able to get at the bolts holding the pump on without sawzalling it off 22 Eargesplitten posted:On the topic of the new engine, I realized the guy that pulled it didn't seal up the coolant holes coming from the water pump, is there any way that I should flush it out to make sure I don't have a bunch of crap in there? The intake is plugged up with a rag and I put paper towels in the exhaust ports when I pulled the headers so that should all be fine but it seems like part of this engine's cause of death may have been rusty coolant and I don't want to have that happen again. I'd probably rinse it out with a garden hose as best I could and then do a few flushes once it's running, but smarter minds than mine probably have a better technique
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Dec 8, 2022 19:11
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Good idea on the vacuum hose. The old one was already metal and it cracked really easy. how do you get the threaded plug part on, though? Oh, is this the brake booster line? Just cut out the king and repair with hose of the correct diameter. As long as it doesn't collapse, it could be rubber hose the entire length. It's just steel from the factory for ease of fitment/assembly. Suburban Dad posted:Dunno if you knew this it not but there are pulley pullers you can rent from auto parts stores to prevent this. You can't really pry them off from one side without that happening since they need to come straight away from the shaft. And usually the puller pulls on a ring at the hub, for just that reason. Why GM loves press-on pulleys, I have no idea. A Small Car posted:It's flared like a brake line, I think that's what you're asking. The one I linked to is from a suburban, but should work for any of the pre-vortec TBI motors (through 1995. 1996 should be the first year for the vortec). It sure looks like the one you have pictured here: Yeah, that.
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Dec 8, 2022 21:49
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If the power steering pump on the donor is any good you can probably just use that one, they're likely the same. Honestly, you might be able to have just taken the pump off with the bracket it's bolted to but I've never tried that on these so I can't guarantee it'll work.
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Dec 9, 2022 04:08
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Fwiw, I ordered and returned TWO new (rebuilt) power steering pumps for my Legacy before I gave up and just put my slightly leaky one back on and ordered a reseal/rebuild kit from eBay. I got one pump that wouldn't build pressure and sounded like a bucket of marbles, and a second pump that DID build pressure and still sounded like a bucket of marbles. So if you have a good working pump, definitely try to not destroy it.
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Dec 9, 2022 21:15
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GM type TC and P pumps are also like babbys first power steering pump rebuild adventure so if you have an even remotely usable one on the donor engine that will fit, slap it right on and rebuild your original at your leisure. I think mine took me 2 hours and most of that was looking for tools and idly sloshing it around in a 5 gallon pail of stale gas in front of my shop to dissolve the half inch of gunk off before I even started working on it.
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Dec 9, 2022 23:19
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I'll hold on to the old pump in case the new one sucks, right now my priority is get this thing driving so I can get it out of the garage. I ordered a supposedly new new rather than rebuilt new Cardone, which I'm not wild about but there were no brands that I recognized as quality at Rockauto. That may just be because I'm used to Japanese cars so I don't recognize reputable domestic parts manufacturers. I lost a socket extension between the AC condenser and grill, anyone have any suggestions for how to get it back out? It's too low for me to just stick my fingers through the grill opening. I can probably get by without it for the rest of this job but it would be really annoying to have it rattling around in there indefinitely. I thought I got the last of the bolts holding the PS pump on removed last night but it's still not coming out of the housing so I think I missed something. Looking through the pretty terrible FSM right now, this thing is bad enough I almost want to buy a Chilton manual just because it might be less bad, I've never felt that way about Subaru FSMs. I'm hoping to get the engine removed this weekend, then clean off the new engine and get it installed before next weekend, then try to get it hooked back up to everything next weekend. I might have some help week after next if I need it, but I really hope I can get the engine in place by myself since my friend who owns the garage is out of town and my other friends in town aren't mechanics or particularly strong and I don't want to get someone inexperienced hurt. Does anyone have advice on how to tell whether a clutch and flywheel are good to reuse or need to be resurfaced/replaced? I know the transmission and transfer case were rebuilt within the past 5,000 miles so I would hope they were replaced at that point, but it was done by my shadetree uncle and I'm not sure how thorough he was. There's a parts washer in this garage, I obviously can't get the new engine into it but I'm thinking about using it for the throttle body at least, is there anything in there that would be damaged by a dunk in diesel? Obviously nothing in the fuel path would have a problem, but I'm not sure if there's anything else in there that would be damaged. The whole throttle body assembly is absolutely filthy so I want to get it sparkling clean while I have it out. 22 Eargesplitten fucked around with this message at 22:31 on Dec 10, 2022 |
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Dec 10, 2022 22:28
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For the lost socket, magnet fishing. Magnet on a stick should be at every parts store, Amazon, and harbor freight. For the clutch and flywheel it's a eyeball kinda thing. I'd post pics here and the stupid questions thread. You have this will suck to do later on one side, expense on the other. Obviously shot will be obviously shot though. For the throttle body it will depend on which car and I don't know that one. Any sensors will have to come off. But for the most part they're all metal and will be fine. If it's drive by wire probably no though.
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Dec 11, 2022 00:17
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Oh this is the '92 Chevy pickup, definitely not drive by wire. I think I have a magnet on a stick somewhere, probably in my SVX. I'll dig it out. Finally got the power steering pump and power steering/alternator bracket off, so the only things that are holding the engine on are the mounts, starter, bellhousing bolts, and some weird sensor going in right above the oil pan that I need to figure out how to get out because the plastic surrounding it is shattered. Also need to get the distributor off, the bolt holding the clamp on is very stuck and I can't see any way to get whatever you call the flat disc beneath the rotor off so I can't get an impact or even a socket on it. Got some liquid wrench in there, hoping it soaks in. Would applying the MAP torch damage anything in a distributor? I think the closest rubber part would be the gasket which I'm not re-using anyway.
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Dec 11, 2022 03:51
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22 Eargesplitten posted:I think I have a magnet on a stick somewhere, probably in my SVX. I'll dig it out. Does anyone sell a big iron chunk for fishing your magnet on a stick out when you drop it?
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Dec 11, 2022 04:04
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Maybe a magnet of the opposite polarity, then an iron chunk, then an even bigger magnet, then a copy of "The old lady who swallowed a fly"
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Dec 11, 2022 04:09
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Oh this is the '92 Chevy pickup, definitely not drive by wire. Weird sensor is probably oil level sensor. I'd say not critical but for some hosed reason GM involved it in the fuel pump circuit on TBI engines, at least on the B body. Distributor is a uniquely stupid loving design too, that flat disc that is the bottom plate of the distributor that totally blocks the hold down bolt doesn't come off. That bolt led to many swear words. There is a special wrench you can get for them if you ever want to work on an SBC again, I don't so I made do. With most of the other poo poo (throttle body, coil) off the engine a 9/16 box wrench should do the trick at some angle. A 9/16 flex head gearwrench definitely will and it's an excellent excuse to buy one if you want to. Put a cut open and unrolled beer or soda can in between the distributor and the bolt as a heat shield and you'll be fine. Edit: I wouldn't run the throttle body through the parts washer. Seems like a great way to deposit more fine dust into the fuel passages to me. A can of throttle body cleaner should do the trick, don't bother cleaning anything outside the fuel and air exposed areas, it doesn't matter. Oh, you'll need two new o rings for the fuel lines into the back of the throttle body... I can't remember the sizes but I think I kept my old ones because I had to use hnbr from my AC service kit in a pinch to get it running and wanted the originals to gauge new ones again if the hnbr melted, so I can check those in the morning. kastein fucked around with this message at 10:36 on Dec 11, 2022 |
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Dec 11, 2022 10:33
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Oh this is the '92 Chevy pickup, definitely not drive by wire. I'm not 100% positive since it's a later generation than my truck, but that sounds like the knock sensor to me. Passenger side near the starter? It should have a shallow hex on top - you'll probably need a deep socket to get to it if the rest of the sensor is still intact. Or break it off since it sounds like a new one is needed anyway. Vice grips should also work to get it out. With how much poo poo 350s usually leak, I've always had those come out pretty easily for me. Seconding the recommendation for a flex head gearwrench, that's how I dealt with my distributor for a long time.
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Dec 11, 2022 13:28
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9/16"? Well that should help actually, this set of SAE wrenches I bought goes from 1/2" to 5/8", but I think I've got a loose 9/16 banging around here somewhere. It's significantly longer than the 14mm that I thought was the right size. I do hate how much this thing seems to mix metric and SAE. I would like a flex head wrench but I don't really want to buy a SAE flex head because it seems like aside from the engine on this vehicle everything else I have is metric. Since the plastic shroud is already broken I'll try to pull it back to find if it does have a hex head. I thought it was maybe the oil pressure sensor. I'm probably going to clean off the whole throttle body even though I don't need to, there's a good 2mm layer of filth all around it and I'd rather just have a clean part going back on even though it's not like I'm going to be pressure washing the rest of the engine. 22 Eargesplitten fucked around with this message at 20:50 on Dec 11, 2022 |
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Dec 11, 2022 20:22
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if the 14mm fits, use it. 14mm is slightly smaller than 9/16, so it will fit a little tight. i have encountered distributor hold-down bolts that were sort of rounded off, a 9/16" couldn't get a good bite on it but a 14mm could.
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Dec 11, 2022 21:56
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The 9/16 fit like a charm and was twice as long as the 14mm. Turns out leverage works! Got it off easily, set the distributor aside in a safe spot so it doesn't get damaged, and got to work on the bellhousing bolts. I got 4/6 of them off, I think one of them I'm going to wait until it's on the hoist so I can lower the engine a little bit to get a better angle, and one seems to be a different size than the others for some reason, it goes through a bracket on the passenger's side of the bellhousing. I got the knock sensor wire off safe and sound, and found a ground strap hiding behind the engine. I'm going to be very careful taking the engine out until I can confirm that everything behind the engine is loose. Next step is figure out how best to hoist the engine and then take the last bolts and motor mounts off. Then while it's on the hoist I'll take off the oil filter adapter and then set the rest of the engine aside for when I find that there's something missing from the new engine that I didn't notice was on the old one. I should have what is hopefully my last shipment of parts arriving tomorrow, so if I'm lucky I'll have everything I need to get the engine out tomorrow and get everything transferred between the engines in the next few days, then put the engine in next weekend. Then begins the long and painful process of hooking everything back up. I did decide while I was buying parts to buy a 34" core radiator, it's probably not necessary but I don't know if the engine overheating was the cause of or due to the engine's failure so I'd rather have the bigger one. I wouldn't go so far as to say the truck breaking down was traumatic but it happened well after what should have been the end of a long and stressful day so I'm really afraid of it happening again. While I was under the engine I noticed that the oil filter adapter has bolts in it that look to be plugs for oil cooler lines. I don't think this truck needs an oil cooler, should I get some lines and run them anyway? IIRC someone (Motronic?) said that the oil coolers built in to the side of a radiator are a problem waiting to happen when a small crack turns into oil milkshake. 22 Eargesplitten fucked around with this message at 02:59 on Dec 12, 2022 |
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Dec 12, 2022 02:56
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Yeah my mistake on that one, the sensor *in* the side of the oil pan is the level sensor, the one slightly above the pan rail is the knock sensor. Glad the distributor came out, I hate that bolt so much.
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Dec 12, 2022 04:13
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I hated dealing with that distributor bolt on my Firebird, it was such a pain to adjust timing due to the annoying design. A flex head was a lifesaver.
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Dec 14, 2022 04:53
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gently caress these motor mounts. I had to pull the manifolds to get to them, and they are positioned in such a way that I can't get to them with anything but a box wrench. Maybe I'll see if I can pick up a 15mm flex head, although nothing on the Subarus uses a 15mm because JIS vs whatever the American metric standard is. The internet led me astray, everything said the bolts between the frame rails and motor mount are 5/8 but 9/16 was too small and 5/8 too big, which is when I figured out that in this particular truck apparently they used metric for this despite almost everything else on the engine being SAE. I did get all but one of the bellhousing bolts out, but it's going to be a long process getting the motor mounts out. The engine is hooked up to the hoist, though, I've got two bolts per corner threaded through 3/8" chains. And I managed to dig out the diesel heater so that has helped a lot with making the temperatures bearable. And I checked my job chocking the wheels by trying to roll the truck both backward and forward with the parking brake off and the car in neutral, couldn't get it to budge. I'm optimistic I can get the engine out this weekend, although I said that last weekend, and the weekend before that.
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Dec 16, 2022 06:23
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lol
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Dec 16, 2022 08:37
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22 Eargesplitten posted:gently caress these motor mounts. I had to pull the manifolds to get to them, and they are positioned in such a way that I can't get to them with anything but a box wrench. Maybe I'll see if I can pick up a 15mm flex head, although nothing on the Subarus uses a 15mm because JIS vs whatever the American metric standard is. The internet led me astray, everything said the bolts between the frame rails and motor mount are 5/8 but 9/16 was too small and 5/8 too big, which is when I figured out that in this particular truck apparently they used metric for this despite almost everything else on the engine being SAE. Congratulations! You have just experienced GM (TM). 13 and 15mm. What in the actual gently caress. Oh, and 18mm rather than 17, too. And 7mm, because gently caress you Japan, apparently. Funnily enough, 7mm is 9/32", which is what GM always used on the smaller dash and interior screws (why they didn't just use 1/4"....?) edit: I should note that Ford does it too, since it's ASME standards as noted above - when they're not under-sizing the heads for some dumbass reason (right, KEN?)
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Dec 16, 2022 20:31
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my experience is the opposite of all yalls. i started with old american cars (so all standard), then briefly worked on some 80s metric american stuff and got used to those fastener sizes, then when my brother got a japanese car all the wrench sizes were weird. 12 and 14 instead of 13 and 15, how strange and bizarre and wrong. at least 10mm is still 10mm. the universal constant with modern stuff
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Dec 17, 2022 08:54
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It's really just the difference between ANSI, JIS, and DIN metric head size standards. The great thing about standards is there are so many to choose from. (Then add reduced head, flange type fasteners and it really gets murky.)
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Dec 17, 2022 09:13
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kastein posted:The great thing about standards is there are so many to choose from. I'm stealing this.
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Dec 18, 2022 16:51
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Raluek posted:my experience is the opposite of all yalls. i started with old american cars (so all standard), then briefly worked on some 80s metric american stuff and got used to those fastener sizes, then when my brother got a japanese car all the wrench sizes were weird. 12 and 14 instead of 13 and 15, how strange and bizarre and wrong. Constantly missing from my goddamn toolbox. I've found that I've needed to use both 13 and 14 on this thing but it could be slightly swollen 13s or slightly small 9/16s, who knows! At least we can all agree that the Euro-spec 17mm head on a 10mm bolt is dumb right? You're just taking up too much drat space with your bolt head at that point.
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Dec 18, 2022 20:20
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I found that one of the bellhousing studs is still in, just without its nut, so I tried jamming two nuts on there to unthread the stud. Result: one completely rounded nut, stud still in. I got a few mm of space between bellhousing and engine on one side, none on the other, none on top, going to try the top next but I'm not sure what to do about that rounded nut. Current thought is torch and vice grips, then hope that the stud isn't holding the bellhousing on without the nut? It *shouldn't* but it also *shouldn't* be this completely stuck.
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Dec 26, 2022 04:48
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I got the stud out but I'm about ready to give up and sell this drat thing. I still can't get the engine out even though there's nothing holding the engine to the bellhousing but the dowel pins. The clutch has no weight to it so it should be disengaged, I've supported the bellhousing and transmission, I've pried at the oil pan (and collapsed it), I've put a pry bar behind the engine and hammered on it as a lever, the engine will rock around but I can't get it loose. Does anyone have any ideas? If I can't get this thing replaced I'm going to have to get it towed out of my friend's garage soon so I'm running out of time.
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Dec 27, 2022 05:06
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either there's something you're missing in your plan of action, or you have something majorly stuck that shouldn't be. so let's go over the basics. my understanding is that you are trying to pull the engine while leaving the transmission in the truck. the things attached to the engine are the motor mounts, the transmission, exhaust, water lines, fuel lines, electrical, and misc controls stuff like vacuum lines, linkages, cables e.g. throttle. so lets assume that you have the exhaust disconnected, you have all the plumbing, electrical, and controls out of the way. at that point the engine is only connected to the transmission and the mounts. now you've taken out all the bellhousing bolts, and the big bolts between the clamshell halves of the motor mount. at this point, there shouldn't be anything bolted together to hold it in, it's just gravity and slip fits. so what you should be trying to do is lift the motor high enough that the motor mount halves separate, thus allowing it to slip forwards and out of the transmission. the dowel pins will come out, then you need to keep going until the input shaft comes out of the clutch. at that point, the engine should be free hanging on your hoist, and you can go straight up. don't forget to put a jack under the transmission, as it probably doesn't have anything holding the front of it besides the engine. i like to use this to help adjust the angle of the engine/trans when removing and reinstalling. what stage are you at? i believe you are at the "lift up and slide forwards" part, so let's confirm that's what you're trying to do. maybe the engine/trans are binding because there's nothing supporting the trans and the weight of the whole drivetrain is sitting on the trans input shaft? i apologize if this sounds like too simple of a picture of your situation, but it sounds like there must be something you've overlooked. or maybe there isn't, and poo poo's just stuck for some reason, but let's confirm the basics first.
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Dec 27, 2022 06:41
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| # ? May 24, 2024 21:20 |
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Is it budging off the transmission even a hair, or a fraction of an inch, or plain stuck? If it's moving a hair, or not at all, it's probably a bolt you missed or dowel pins are stuck. It happens and it sucks. But it can be worked with. If it's moving like a quarter inch or so at least, make sure you got everything out of the way of the flywheel, for example the flywheel dust cover on the front of the bellhousing opposite the oil pan kind of. Or any brackets it's hung up on. Sometimes they're just stuck because you have a side load on the input shaft, basically, and it won't pull out of the clutch disc that way. Wiggle and yank and shake while lifting and lowering a little at a time is the name of the game there.
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Dec 27, 2022 08:40
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