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Covert Ops Wizard posted:Let's ignore CAHOG for the time being. Oh is that how its going to be 
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Jun 11, 2013 20:34
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SaNChEzZ posted:http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5165/5367675023_a167a49c29_z.jpg Let's compare war wounds.  I'd yet to scrub the gravel out of it in this pic, but it was a nice divot out of my knee.  http://i.imgur.com/m4IeVJk.jpgHere's the scar 4.5 later. http://i.imgur.com/vhfI3xo.jpg Don't wear jeans, kids(or short gloves for that matter, I had a similar one on my wrist).
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Jun 12, 2013 01:22
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I refuse to look at any of these pictures but I was nevertheless convinced to order a pair of textile overpants today. Thanks, dudes.
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Jun 12, 2013 01:43
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With those tags, I was expecting abunchofnumbers-level gore. I am simultaneously relieved and disappointed.
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Jun 12, 2013 06:35
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Abe Froman posted:I refuse to look at any of these pictures but I was nevertheless convinced to order a pair of textile overpants today. Thanks, dudes. Get a pair with CE armor and I like ones with a 3/4 or so length zipper down the side. I had a pair without the zipper and you couldn't put them on over boots, so I didn't wear them half the time. I wear my pants every ride now.
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Jun 12, 2013 06:44
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fingerling posted:Pfft, pansy! I wish I had some photos of my knee (not quite to the same extent as the dude who shattered his knee). But it was hugely swollen, and degloved. That's right. I degloved a knee Why did I GIS that? 
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Jun 12, 2013 07:02
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Rugoberta Munchu posted:With those tags, I was expecting abunchofnumbers-level gore. I am simultaneously relieved and disappointed. Seriously, how disappointing. These were barely "10 year old on a BMX with a skinned knee" level.
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Jun 12, 2013 15:10
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Agreed, someone post some real poo poo. In particular, I could use some motivation to get new boots.
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Jun 12, 2013 16:46
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Motivation for new boots you say?! I did this for you! http://i.imgur.com/dknOAEl.jpg] http://i.imgur.com/5BWxAUz.jpg] Learned a lot of lessons on Monday: (1) Stop being "frugal" and buy proper kit; riding boots and pants will be acquired this weekend. (2) Don't ride if you are running late; take the car. (3) Don't mash the rear brakes like a hamfooted fool when you have to make a sudden stop. Long story short: was running late to work, situation was exacerbated by traffic, and decided to whiz past a line of traffic. I don't think I was speeding and if I was, it wasn't by much, but I was still riding in a hurry. Regardless, light turns yellow and I vacillated between trying to blow through it or stopping. I decided to stop after hesitating and then realized I didn't have a lot of room for the stop. Being flustered and unfocused, I ended up locking up the rear tire and good lord did the thing loving move on me. Having never experienced that before, I failed at recovering and rode the bike to the ground while wearing jeans and Nike Frees. Everything I did was stupid but I am grateful that I emerged mostly okay and my bike isn't too messed up  Seriously, get proper riding pants and boots. I estimate I went down at around 25-30 mph (was braking from ~45) and my jeans and tennis shoes didn't stand a chance. Damage to the bike: (I loving hate myself for this part above all else) Gear shift lever got bent to hell; it was worse but the adrenaline allowed me to crank it out a bit so I could ride to the hospital:   Cracked and scraped the front fairing, looks like I broke one of the places it connects as well:   Bunch of other little scrapes, nothing too bad Edit: may as well ask here if anyone has any input on how to go about repairing the above? MarquisDeCarabas fucked around with this message at 05:10 on Jun 13, 2013 |
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Jun 13, 2013 05:03
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Legerdemain posted:Agreed, someone post some real poo poo. In particular, I could use some motivation to get new boots. As you wish. Don't look at this if you're squeamish. I'm serious.  imgur.com/OhrzxUb.jpg?1 Here's the doc's description of that injury: Eighteen-year-old male patient with severe Gustilo type IIIC injury of the ankle after a motorcycle accident. An initial attempt for limb salvage with anastomosis of the posterior tibial artery was followed by delayed amputation 5 days postoperatively due to severe sepsis.
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Jun 13, 2013 05:18
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MarquisDeCarabas posted:Motivation for new boots you say?! I did this for you! Shifter is a cheap buy, as is the fairing (relatively). When I lowsided my old ninja I would always just bend the shifter back in place, but that's just way to twisted up. Plastics will run you a few hundred bucks at the most. Buy them from whatever asian country is selling them cheapest, and save your heat shielding and the fasteners. When you're able to ride again go to a parking lot and practice locking your rear brakes. If you don't panic you can just slide a skidding back tire to a complete stop, or if you need to stop skidding let off when it comes back in line. If you're completely upright you can literally skid your front tire as well, though losing traction on both could go very poorly. Your bike kinda has crappy brakes compared to supersports, which means you have to work harder to bring it to a stop once it's moving. Learn the limits of front and rear, then practice linking the two for panic braking.
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Jun 13, 2013 06:17
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MarquisDeCarabas posted:
Take the fairing off, get a fibreglass kit and you can fix that in 20 minutes (then leave it overnight to set). Apply the stuff to the inside and it'll be fine, will look crap outside but at least it'll be solid. Could also stuff some on the outside in the cracks and paint over it if you care to. Should run you about $30 - $50 max depending on how cheap it is where you live. Wear gloves and glasses when you do it, from experience, fibreglass in your eye loving hurts. It can also cause permanent eye damage. I missed that part luckily.
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Jun 13, 2013 06:25
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There was a motorcycle accident on Alaskan Way in Seattle this morning around 7am. Didn't get a good look at the bike and didn't see a rider anywhere. It was a white sport bike. Think it was a Kawasaki. Looked pretty hosed up with plastic litering the road. Took place around the crosswalk to the Victoria Clipper in the south bound (that's where the bike was, at least) lane. Any number of things could've caused it between the towncars/taxis, cyclists, and pedestrians out and about that time of morning. There was already a crowd of people and the sirens were headed for us, so pulling over would have done nothing in terms of assistance.
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Jun 13, 2013 16:37
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Second day riding and I've crashed my 99 CB250 Nighthawk already  Approached a T intersection and there was already a car stopped, so i started to slow down (probably slowed down too late) Front wheel locked for a second and the road surface just ripped straight up underneath me I was leaning to the left a little to go up the left side of the car (he was turning right) so the front end washed out and i ended up going left side down Luckily I was only doing about 20-30kmph, so not too much damage was done A bit of a ding to the speedo housing, tiny scratch to the front fender, shifter needs replacing, left front indicator needs replacing, small scratch on the exhaust, left foot peg bracket needs bending back a little and the headlight surround and bucket need replacing Damage to me is only a 2 inch wide bit of minor gravel rash and a sore hip My Draggin Jeans (Australian Brand) are toast, tore through the denim and kevlar Don't think I'll buy another pair, might look around for some textile pants that come in fatty sizes with short legs
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Jun 19, 2013 09:24
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Oh, drat, Draggin tore at that speed that quick? I was looking at getting a pair of them as well. Bah. Glad you're ok though, at least it was a little crash (as things go). Once you're back on the bike, find an empty parking lot and practice those emergency stops. I also like to practice braking lightly while turning a bit (probably not the best idea, but, eh).
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Jun 19, 2013 10:04
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Mayor Poopenmayer posted:Second day riding and I've crashed my 99 CB250 Nighthawk already Aw crap and draggin are meant to be the best you can get in AUS/NZ. If they can't handle a 30km/h spill I guess I won't be buying them like I planned. Your crash was not in vain, this nugget of information may some day save my legs! Regardless that doesn't sound too major. Was the road wet? What do you think you did wrong, aside from braking too late?
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Jun 19, 2013 10:05
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Road was completely dry I think the main thing is I maybe braked a little too hard Other than that I'm blaming the road surface Our local council has been patching this corner for ages, it's crumbling away in a lot of spots
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Jun 19, 2013 10:13
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Mayor Poopenmayer posted:Road was completely dry It's 100% your fault sorry bro. Second day riding the only thing to blame for eating poo poo is the guy sitting on the bike. Crashing while slowing down at an intersection is not a 'normal' thing. Sounds like your jeans did their job when you went down, anything textile is a one and done thing most of the time.
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Jun 19, 2013 13:44
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Might be worth getting someone who knows what they're doing to check your front brake over. The operation should be smooth allowing you to apply gradual braking. If it has become sticky (for want of a better word) then it can go from not applied to fully straight away leading to the kind of rear end-dumping you've just suffered. On the other hand if it's fine I'd go find an empty car park and practice stop and go and emergency braking!
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Jun 19, 2013 13:50
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Mayor Poopenmayer posted:Second day riding and I've crashed my 99 CB250 Nighthawk already You probably need to practice your emergency braking a lot more. Did you use the rear at all? I concur with n8r - this is almost certainly 100% your fault. Don't blame the road, take responsibility for it and get better.
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Jun 19, 2013 15:00
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Everyone grabs too much front brake at least once. The good thing is that now your lizard brain should remember the pain of it and stop you doing it again. I did it twice when I was learning, the first time I went down hard. The second time I saved it. I was slowing because there was another biker coming the other way on a big tourer with panniers and such and the tiny country lane wasn't wide enough. He had an open face helmet and I remember seeing him all  as I hit pea gravel, locked the front, let off and re-applied twice in quick succession without dropping it.Still scared the poo poo out of me.
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Jun 19, 2013 15:00
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A '99 Nighthawk has a front drum brake. My R5 drum brake isn't exactly the most progressive brake in the world so I could see how a beginner rider might give it the beans accidentally.
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Jun 19, 2013 15:25
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n8r posted:A '99 Nighthawk has a front drum brake. My R5 drum brake isn't exactly the most progressive brake in the world so I could see how a beginner rider might give it the beans accidentally. I've been reading about drum brakes, and am amazed that anyone ever thought them anything more than a half-assed compromise until better materials showed up (in the 50s). Self-assisting may seem great on big trucks, but on a motorcycle, if you lock a wheel, then that wheel slides. If the front drum self-assists, it may be physically impossible to unlock the wheel without getting weight off it. That seems like a HORRIBLE idea. Some bikes even had dual leading brake shoes, so there were TWO locked shoes, BOTH of which had to unstick to get the wheel rolling again. This may have been a newbie crash (grabbing too much brake), but the mechanics of the whole thing make it an advanced lesson in why drum brakes suck.
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Jun 19, 2013 21:54
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:I've been reading about drum brakes, and am amazed that anyone ever thought them anything more than a half-assed compromise until better materials showed up (in the 50s). I just can't believe that a bike from loving 1999 had a FRONT drum brake. Christ. My 1979 Honda has a front disc.
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Jun 19, 2013 21:58
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If you think that's bad, the nighthawk 250 STILL uses drum brakes on both wheels. The latest model I've seen is an 08 and yep, still a drum on the front. What the hell, honda.
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Jun 19, 2013 22:01
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Pham Nuwen posted:I just can't believe that a bike from loving 1999 had a FRONT drum brake. Christ. My 1979 Honda has a front disc. I know! I finished that post up with "why old bikes suck for new riders" then I saw it was a '99. I had a '92 old-man car that had four-wheel discs.
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Jun 19, 2013 22:03
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:I know! I finished that post up with "why old bikes suck for new riders" then I saw it was a '99. I had a '92 old-man car that had four-wheel discs. I have an old man car that debuted in 1986 with 4-wheel discs. There is absolutely no redeeming value in drum brakes, even though plenty of cars still have 'em in the rear. Speaking as a both a tech and a private concerned citizen, gently caress drum brakes forever.
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Jun 19, 2013 22:17
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Splizwarf posted:I have an old man car that debuted in 1986 with 4-wheel discs. There is absolutely no redeeming value in drum brakes, even though plenty of cars still have 'em in the rear. Speaking as a both a tech and a private concerned citizen, gently caress drum brakes forever. Yup. I love it when people trot out that hoary old argument about the supposed simplicity and cheaper cost and all that garbage. It's all bullshit. They aren't even cheaper to make anymore, not when 90% of vehicles have discs everywhere. It's purely a marketing ploy to make the base model of x vehicle appear lovely compared to the better-specced varieties.
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Jun 19, 2013 22:32
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Slavvy posted:Yup. I love it when people trot out that hoary old argument about the supposed simplicity and cheaper cost and all that garbage. It's all bullshit. They aren't even cheaper to make anymore, not when 90% of vehicles have discs everywhere. It's purely a marketing ploy to make the base model of x vehicle appear lovely compared to the better-specced varieties. I bet they are cheaper to make when you're using the same machinery that you paid off in 1978 to make them.
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Jun 19, 2013 22:39
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n8r posted:I bet they are cheaper to make when you're using the same machinery that you paid off in 1978 to make them. No. Stop and really think about it: is it cheaper to have one factory that makes every part, or have the factory split up with a small portion making the lovely old part, with entirely different tooling, with workers who have to be trained differently and different maintenance costs on the machinery and a different supply of blanks and so on. Logistically they are more expensive. Marketing is the only reason. And I guess looks on some cruisers?
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Jun 19, 2013 22:43
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Slavvy posted:Yup. I love it when people trot out that hoary old argument about the supposed simplicity and cheaper cost and all that garbage. It's all bullshit. They aren't even cheaper to make anymore, not when 90% of vehicles have discs everywhere. It's purely a marketing ploy to make the base model of x vehicle appear lovely compared to the better-specced varieties. Speaking as someone who will soon have to open up a 30+ year old drum brake which is almost certainly full of asbestos dust: gently caress drum brakes.
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Jun 19, 2013 22:44
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Slavvy posted:No. Stop and really think about it: is it cheaper to have one factory that makes every part, or have the factory split up with a small portion making the lovely old part, with entirely different tooling, with workers who have to be trained differently and different maintenance costs on the machinery and a different supply of blanks and so on. Logistically they are more expensive. Are you a manufacturing engineer/consultant? I'd be interested to hear about how this works.
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Jun 19, 2013 23:10
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Pham Nuwen posted:I just can't believe that a bike from loving 1999 had a FRONT drum brake. Christ. My 1979 Honda has a front disc. My 1978 Suzuki has disc brakes for both wheels.
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Jun 19, 2013 23:40
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The Aussie model has a disc brake in the front I'll be taking it to my local Honda dealership in a week or so to get them to give it a look over
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Jun 19, 2013 23:59
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I'd argue that drum brakes (on a car) are better than discs if you live somewhere that gets snow and salt and poo poo cause that makes your rear calipers seize like every loving year, unlike the mostly protected mechanism of the drum. Some (I wont say all, but I wouldn't be surprised) car brands here recommend that you take apart your rear brakes to clean the guide pins and push the piston in and out a couple of times every year to prevent it from seizing. Four wheel drum brakes was the best thing on my Volvo Duett (until you actually had to service them).
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Jun 20, 2013 00:12
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n8r posted:Are you a manufacturing engineer/consultant? I'd be interested to hear about how this works. I'm not in that part of the automotive industry but I have a friend who is; I've picked his brains on numerous occasions and most of it really works totally differently to the way I thought it did. When I talk to him again I'll ask him about the nuts and bolts of it. Nidhg00670000 posted:I'd argue that drum brakes (on a car) are better than discs if you live somewhere that gets snow and salt and poo poo cause that makes your rear calipers seize like every loving year, unlike the mostly protected mechanism of the drum. Some (I wont say all, but I wouldn't be surprised) car brands here recommend that you take apart your rear brakes to clean the guide pins and push the piston in and out a couple of times every year to prevent it from seizing. Four wheel drum brakes was the best thing on my Volvo Duett (until you actually had to service them). I get the feeling this is why hilux, navara, triton etc all retain rear drums even on the big 4WD models but it still seems pretty thin.
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Jun 20, 2013 00:18
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Slavvy posted:I get the feeling this is why hilux, navara, triton etc all retain rear drums even on the big 4WD models but it still seems pretty thin. I owned a Jeep Wrangler with rear drums, and the fuckers got packed up with mud to the point where they only worked, unexpectedly and violently, in the rain. gently caress rear drums.
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Jun 20, 2013 01:01
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Nidhg00670000 posted:I'd argue that drum brakes (on a car) are better than discs if you live somewhere that gets snow and salt and poo poo cause that makes your rear calipers seize like every loving year, unlike the mostly protected mechanism of the drum. Some (I wont say all, but I wouldn't be surprised) car brands here recommend that you take apart your rear brakes to clean the guide pins and push the piston in and out a couple of times every year to prevent it from seizing. Four wheel drum brakes was the best thing on my Volvo Duett (until you actually had to service them). Stop parking with your emergency/parking brake on and watch rear calipers stop freezing up on you. I lived in WI until I was 23, I never had my rear calipers freeze up and have never heard of anyone having that problem unless they are using the e-brake. drat this reminds me I need to find 323i rear trailing arms for the 320i so I can go to rear disc.
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Jun 20, 2013 01:02
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My dad's 9-5 saab wagon had all discs and the calipers never once had a problem in 12 years, even though we lived in nuclear-winter northeast.
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Jun 20, 2013 01:05
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NitroSpazzz posted:Stop parking with your emergency/parking brake on and watch rear calipers stop freezing up on you. I lived in WI until I was 23, I never had my rear calipers freeze up and have never heard of anyone having that problem unless they are using the e-brake. As my dad used to put it, "Is it an emergency? Then leave the emergency brake alone." It's just important that you remember to leave the vehicle in gear, lest it roll down a slight incline and into a poplar tree. Or so I've been told.
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Jun 20, 2013 01:12
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