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Scarf posted:Man, been WAY too long since I've brewed. Relocated to Denver, CO, anxious to see how some of my recipes turn out with Colorado water... Hopefully going to give this hybrid brown a try in the next few weeks. British ingredients, brewed more like an American. I'd use brown malt instead of chocolate, but 5% shouldn't be the worst thing ever.
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Oct 29, 2016 22:14
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Brown malt is great stuff.
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Oct 30, 2016 02:28
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Yup. I've got a brown malt porter-ish thing on right now, and it's drat good; gonna brew it again as soon as it runs dry.
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Oct 30, 2016 02:31
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Brown malt in porters for sure. I was working on my recipe earlier for the root beer inspired porter and there is definitely some brown malt going in there. I'm debating putting a little lactose in there to add the creamy finish you get with a root beer. Not a ton, maybe half a pound or less.
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Oct 30, 2016 03:07
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Yeah I've def used it in porters before, never tried it in a brown tho
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Oct 30, 2016 03:20
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rockcity posted:I'm debating putting a little lactose in there to add the creamy finish you get with a root beer. Maybe also think about oats for the smooth and silky. I'm not a fan of lactose myself, but your way isn't wrong.
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Oct 30, 2016 03:59
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Scarf posted:Yeah I've def used it in porters before, never tried it in a brown tho It's a brown ale. Sure, the brown malt we get today isn't the same as what it was 100 years ago, but it is definitely something that's used in a brown ale. I use it in a london porter mostly, but I like to try to find places to use it because of the great toasty malty flavor. E: I should brew a brown ale.
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Oct 30, 2016 04:19
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Fork of Unknown Origins posted:I'm looking to try home brewing beer for the first time in about a week, once the stuff I ordered arrives. I got the Northern Brewing (it looked like it had the most stuff I wouldn't want to replace any time soon) kit plus a thermometer and hygrometer. Jo3sh's post is pretty definitive when it comes to the various types of extract brewing. I assume the Northern Brewer kit you got was unhopped extract + steeping grains + hops + yeast, right? If so, you'll be doing what most extract brewers do. If you can make tea, you can do extract-with-grains. It's all a matter of cleanliness and timekeeping. Whenever someone asks me what they should brew as a first beer (if they're doing extract-with-steeping-grains), I say to do an American Pale Ale. They're drinkable, super easy, and it gives you a chance to use US-05, which is a fantastic yeast that you'll use throughout the lifetime of your homebrewing hobby. My first truly successful homebrew was an APA, after loving up three attempts at doing brew-in-a-bag all-grain when I first started out. It's good that you don't care for lagers, because lagers are more complicated to brew than ales -- stick with something top-fermenting (an ale) for your first beers. To do a lager effectively requires more equipment and a bigger investment (ie: a chest freezer, temperature controller, and time). If I were starting over again, my biggest advice to myself would be to brew stuff that fits my ability to control my temperature. My apartment is unusually warm since I live above a restaurant kitchen, and my first couple beers came out with loads of undesirable off-flavors because the fermentation was far too warm (like 25 degrees Celsius). If you have a cool basement, this isn't an issue, but if temperature control in your house is difficult, stick to brewing styles that like higher temperatures (hefeweizen, saison). That being said, you can also get some pretty effective if inconsistent cooling with a swamp cooler setup that will cost you like 5 bucks. Pick up "Brewing Classic Styles" by Jamil Zainasheff. It's a fantastic resource and has a ton of great recipes that are formulated as extract-with-grains and are fairly simple to follow. I've brewed three of them so far and haven't been disappointed at all.
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Oct 30, 2016 05:54
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Jo3sh posted:Maybe also think about oats for the smooth and silky. I'm not a fan of lactose myself, but your way isn't wrong. Yeah, I had the oats idea too. That's sort of what I was debating between. My only concern with oats is they tend to add haze and I feel like I want this reasonably clear to look soda like. I love oats in beers though, I use them in pales regularly and I've done an oatmeal milk stout once that I loved. My only concern with the lactose is that it will add more sweetness. I have my mash at 153 right now and with lactose I'm estimating an FG of 1.019 or so with the yeast I think I want to try out (Wyeast Ringwood Ale). The sweetness could be a good thing for the beer though, so who knows. Jhet posted:It's a brown ale. Sure, the brown malt we get today isn't the same as what it was 100 years ago, but it is definitely something that's used in a brown ale. Drew Beacham talked about that in a recent Experimental Brewing podcast. Apparently he found some old recipe that used brown malt, but more in a base malt capacity and he ended up with just a face full of roast and had to dump the whole keg. He said that he's never used brown malt again and that if you see him post a recipe with it that he is in danger and the authorities should be contacted. rockcity fucked around with this message at 15:01 on Oct 30, 2016 |
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Oct 30, 2016 14:58
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rockcity posted:Drew Beacham talked about that in a recent Experimental Brewing podcast. Apparently he found some old recipe that used brown malt, but more in a base malt capacity and he ended up with just a face full of roast and had to dump the whole keg. He said that he's never used brown malt again and that if you see him post a recipe with it that he is in danger and the authorities should be contacted. Might I say, duh? Brewing historic styles is great fun, and I did that with a scottish ale, which by today's standards would be an 80-. I did a 2.5 hour boil, and reduced a bunch of the first runnings even further on the stove top. This is not how they would have done it 100 years ago, but I have modern tools, and modern malt, so I needed to adjust both the recipe and the process to fit. I think it turned out a good facsimile based on flavor and color. Modern brown malt needs to be balanced with pale malts or you'll not want to drink the beer. I'd use 20% easily, maybe 30% depending on the style. It can easily overpower if you use too much. So I'd say Drew Beacham is kind of an idiot for using it poorly and then complaining about it.
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Oct 30, 2016 17:10
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Jhet posted:Modern brown malt needs to be balanced with pale malts or you'll not want to drink the beer. Is the difference actually in the nature of the malt, or process changes or something?
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Oct 30, 2016 17:37
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the yeti posted:Is the difference actually in the nature of the malt, or process changes or something? Kilning methods, biological changes in the malt we selected for brewing, changes in taste requirements. All the different parts of the malting process that have improved and/or changed to make extraction more efficient gives us a different brown malt than 100 years ago.
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Oct 30, 2016 18:42
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Drone posted:Jo3sh's post is pretty definitive when it comes to the various types of extract brewing. I assume the Northern Brewer kit you got was unhopped extract + steeping grains + hops + yeast, right? If so, you'll be doing what most extract brewers do. If you can make tea, you can do extract-with-grains. It's all a matter of cleanliness and timekeeping. Thanks for the tips. I probably will start with an American Pale Ale. If the first batch turns out any good I plan on taking it to my in laws house for Christmas and that's a style I think most of them will drink. My apartment doesn't have a lot of space (especially with a baby in it now) but luckily the temperature stays around 71 almost all the time so I should get some consistent results. The kit came with those things but I'm not sure I'll use them. A craft brewery nearby sells brewing ingredients and I figure what I get will be fresher from there.
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Oct 30, 2016 19:00
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Fork of Unknown Origins posted:Thanks for the tips. I probably will start with an American Pale Ale. If the first batch turns out any good I plan on taking it to my in laws house for Christmas and that's a style I think most of them will drink. You said the kit came from Northern Brewer, so unless you've had it for a long while, it should be fine and fresh to use everything that came with it.
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Oct 30, 2016 19:08
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I'm trying to plan my 2nd batch of beer. I've got it in my head to make a wheat beer or an IPA, but either way something with citrus flavor in it...I'm loving the hell out of all the citrus beers out right now. Citradelic is often in my fridge, as are some local citrus beers when available. I'm in NC, and Raleigh Brewing company makes a blood orange wheat in the summer. So yeah, looking in the direction of one of those. But, I want to try to do things without a kit. Not sure why, except for the fact that the kit I brewed my first batch with was really just a handful of items. On the other hand, I have no idea what I'm doing. Extract brewing is all I'm set up for, so my plan was to buy some malt extract, hops, yeast, and probably some specialty grains, and maybe toss in some lemon peel or orange peel. Any thoughts on the direction I should take with this? I guess I'm really just starting to think of this, so I should probably do some more research on what hops/yeast to use...but any direction would be appreciated.
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Oct 30, 2016 19:11
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Jhet posted:Kilning methods, biological changes in the malt we selected for brewing, changes in taste requirements. All the different parts of the malting process that have improved and/or changed to make extraction more efficient gives us a different brown malt than 100 years ago. It also used to be a lot lighter from what he was saying in the podcast. He sounded pretty embarrassed by the mistake. It was part of a Q&A for what was the least successful beer you've ever made.
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Oct 30, 2016 19:15
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Jhet posted:You said the kit came from Northern Brewer, so unless you've had it for a long while, it should be fine and fresh to use everything that came with it. Good to know. I had read that sometimes the yeast in kits was old and not as active but if Northern has a good reputation for that sort of thing I'll trust it. Edit: The kit isn't actually here yet. Should arrive in the next week or so.
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Oct 30, 2016 19:25
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Fork of Unknown Origins posted:Good to know. I had read that sometimes the yeast in kits was old and not as active but if Northern has a good reputation for that sort of thing I'll trust it. That still holds true for those Coopers kits you get that come prehopped with a packet of yeast tapped on like an after thought that you can buy at Bed Bath and Beyond. Don't buy those. Most LHBS these days will keep their yeast current. If you're unsure, check for dust in the store and all the liquid yeasts will have a manufacturing date/best buy date stamped on the packaging.
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Oct 30, 2016 20:42
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Jo3sh posted:I'd just count it as water for the purposes of volume, then add 1 pound per gallon of dextrose to account for the sugar. That should get you into the ballpark. the yeti posted:Oh hey that's a lot easier, thanks So I just checked the FG on this recipe and it's 1.001 or so, where brewtoad estimated 1.015  It tastes fine (major case of cider sulfur for now, hard to get a good sense of the flavors) but wow for a yeast that people seem to worry about stalling a lot this stuff sure attenuated like hell. Edit: Goddamn it's sulfury. I know it dissipates, and this is only ten days old, but 
the yeti fucked around with this message at 04:35 on Oct 31, 2016 |
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Oct 31, 2016 01:13
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Thanks! The math seems like it checks out too, when I adjust for +1 gallon of volume and +1 pound of malt extract the OG stays more or less static:
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DaveSauce posted:I'm trying to plan my 2nd batch of beer. I've got it in my head to make a wheat beer or an IPA, but either way something with citrus flavor in it...I'm loving the hell out of all the citrus beers out right now. Citradelic is often in my fridge, as are some local citrus beers when available. I'm in NC, and Raleigh Brewing company makes a blood orange wheat in the summer. Use Citra as a dry hopped and you get great citrusy smells. Using Saison yeast also can net some good flavors.
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Oct 31, 2016 03:26
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I second that. 3711 French Saison Yeast + Citra is a pretty fool-proof combination. Get the OG to anywhere between 9 to 16 plato using whatever light-colored extract you please, and get to anywhere between 18 and 40 IBUs with late additions of Citra (no earlier than 10 minutes, with plenty reserved for the dry hop).
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Oct 31, 2016 03:56
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I managed to hit my highest efficiency brew ever yesterday, 84.2%. For years I've been getting efficiency results anywhere between 60-75%. My only difference that I would do to normal was changing the mash pH. I got a pH tester for the first time and tested the mash 10 minutes in, to find it was at 6.1 pH (The water around here is apparently hard and alkaline as gently caress). I threw in some gypsum and epsom salts as thats what I had handy, and got it down to 5.4. I want to make sure I can sort out my mash and water better in the future, and to be honest between some random articles I'm reading and my water report I'm getting confused as to what I need to do, how can I best adjust my water to suit the beer I make? Weissbiers, pale ales, and IPAs are what I brew 95% of the time. This is my water report: https://www.affinitywater.co.uk/docs/water-quality/TV008.pdf
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Oct 31, 2016 10:28
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Ahdinko posted:I managed to hit my highest efficiency brew ever yesterday, 84.2%. For years I've been getting efficiency results anywhere between 60-75%. My only difference that I would do to normal was changing the mash pH. I got a pH tester for the first time and tested the mash 10 minutes in, to find it was at 6.1 pH (The water around here is apparently hard and alkaline as gently caress). I threw in some gypsum and epsom salts as thats what I had handy, and got it down to 5.4. Your water doesn't look that bad to me, as long as you aren't planning on brewing any pilsners... If you do, just sub in 50% distilled water. http://www.ezwatercalculator.com Is what I use, it's easier to manage than brew n water. I think for what you want to brew, just adding some lactic acid to hit target pH is likely to be enough. I'm also not really big on trying to build a clone of a water profile. Others may be able to help you if that's what you are after. I usually just try and keep things balanced and to have enough calcium for health yeast.
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Oct 31, 2016 13:08
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Der Penguingott posted:Your water doesn't look that bad to me, as long as you aren't planning on brewing any pilsners... If you do, just sub in 50% distilled water. Water chemistry is totally a mystery to me, and just for shits and giggles I pulled the water report for my city's tap water. I have no goddamn clue what I'm looking for here... is there a calculator similar to what you posted above, but something a bit more high-level? I'm looking for something that takes my data and just says "yo, your tap water is poo poo for producing <style> but is probably pretty awesome for <other style>" and less about telling me what kind of minerals I need to add/compensate for in order to Burtonise my poo poo. Unfortunately I don't think just flat-out linking it here would help any, since I live in Germany and the report is in German. Thankfully nearly all of the mineral names are the same or very similar to English (except sodium = natrium and potassium = kalium). Here it is anyway if some friendly water chemistry expert wants to tell me how poo poo my tap water is and how screwed I am for not giving a drat about water chemistry in any of my homebrew thus far.
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Oct 31, 2016 13:47
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Drone posted:Water chemistry is totally a mystery to me, and just for shits and giggles I pulled the water report for my city's tap water. I have no goddamn clue what I'm looking for here... is there a calculator similar to what you posted above, but something a bit more high-level? I'm looking for something that takes my data and just says "yo, your tap water is poo poo for producing <style> but is probably pretty awesome for <other style>" and less about telling me what kind of minerals I need to add/compensate for in order to Burtonise my poo poo. Brewer's Friend has a good water calc thing. Basically, you create a record for your water chemistry, then tell the software what your "target" is (light and hoppy, dark and malty, etc etc) and it gives you some deltas to change up. You have to know a bit about water additives, but you can get pretty far with literally 3-4 easy-to-find chemicals like Epsom Salts, Gypsum, Calcium Chloride, and table salt. One thing you learn pretty fast when doing additions is that it's almost always easier to make a number go up than it is to make a number go down, which is why I gave up fixing my water and just use filtered water now. For example, my home tap water is fairly high in magnesium. Any addition of Epsom salts to my tap water quickly turned into a "Too High" MgSO4 which pretty much just gives you the shits. The other thing to note is that tap water profiles GENERALLY change pretty often and throughout the year. I had a test done and don't put much faith in it being accurate now. For a simple Light and Hoppy beer now, I add something like 8g of Gypsum and 2g of Calcium Chloride, a pinch of salt, a few ml of Phosphoric acid, and my water is fixed. You don't need to overthink it too much. robotsinmyhead fucked around with this message at 16:06 on Oct 31, 2016 |
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Oct 31, 2016 16:02
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Drone posted:Water chemistry is totally a mystery to me, and just for shits and giggles I pulled the water report for my city's tap water. I have no goddamn clue what I'm looking for here... is there a calculator similar to what you posted above, but something a bit more high-level? I'm looking for something that takes my data and just says "yo, your tap water is poo poo for producing <style> but is probably pretty awesome for <other style>" and less about telling me what kind of minerals I need to add/compensate for in order to Burtonise my poo poo. You're pretty much set as far as calcium and minerals go. In fact they're pretty much ideal for most styles. Most of the time your calcium will be about 100, as will your Sulfate, with the chloride around 25. A pretty classic pale ale/saison setup. However, you're going to end up with too high of a mash PH in most, if not all of your beers, so, seeing as the minerals are all in order, you're going to want to rely on acid additions of between 0.5 to 2 tsp of lactic acid or 100 to 300 grams of acidulated malt, depending upon the style (the lighter the beer, the more you add). If you really care to nail specific PHs and play around with mineral additions you should learn how to use the brewersfriend.com water calculator and/or get a set of PH strips. If you can't be bothered 1 tsp of lactic acid (80 or 88%) to the mash should be a step in the right direction for pretty much any style at this point (if you are indeed brewing 5-6 gallon batches). Basically, the "seasoning" of your water is already pretty great as far as yeast health and making hops pop goes, but since your mash PH ends up relatively high you'd probably get the best results from brewing really dark beers if you were to do nothing. Adding a bit of acid would by far be the most flexible approach, allowing you to use your water for pretty much anything without messing with it further. However, if you're only interested in brewing dry minerally west coast IPAs you could perhaps get away with adding a teaspoon or two of gypsum instead. thotsky fucked around with this message at 20:13 on Oct 31, 2016 |
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Oct 31, 2016 19:35
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Any wine or mead makers here? I've never home brewed before, I've been reading up on mead making and I've decided to try my hand at a Metheglin. One thing I'm still a bit confused on is final gravity. Suppose I want to make a sweet mead with an FG of 1.015. Should that be 1.015 after primary fermentation, or after backsweetening? Using the equation I found (ABV=131.25(OG-FG)), assuming a desired final gravity of 1.015 and ABV of 14%, that works out to a starting OG of 1.12. So ideally the mead will have .105, uh, gravity's worth of sugar left after primary fermentation? Is that how it works? (I know the equation isn't perfect and yeast doesn't magically stop at its upper tolerance, I'm just trying to get into the ballpark). Or should I just dry it out as much as possible and sweeten it in secondary? Kibbles n Shits fucked around with this message at 03:15 on Nov 1, 2016 |
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Nov 1, 2016 03:10
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Kibbles n Shits posted:Any wine or mead makers here? I've never home brewed before, I've been reading up on mead making and I've decided to try my hand at a Metheglin. One thing I'm still a bit confused on is final gravity. Suppose I want to make a sweet mead with an FG of 1.015. Should that be 1.015 after primary fermentation, or after backsweetening? Generally speaking yeast will ferment it to dryness so back sweetening is your best bet (make sure you sulfite/sorbate to ensure no refermentation). If you use a low alcohol tolerant yeast it can produce off flavors as it gets stressed at the upper limit of its tolerance. I'd sweeten it right before you bottle. A long maturation in secondary is beneficial to mead, and I'm not sure if back sweetening early would have a negative effect. That said I'm not super expert with mead and if someone here or another source says that sweetening earlier is fine, give it a try.
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Nov 1, 2016 03:23
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Ok, so I've got everything picked out and on its way, the only thing I've got left to figure out is how to keep my fementer (plastic bucket) more or less temperature controlled. I'm not "there" to where I'm going to go out and buy a mini fridge/etc, but I am looking at getting a bigger bucket for my fermentation bucket to go in and cooling it with water/evaporative cooling. The OP mentions putting frozen water bottles in the water. Is there a risk that that will make it too cold? I have a thermometer to check the water temperature with but if there are ice bottles in there I imagine the water will start off a lot colder than the fermenter and then even out as the bottle melts. Is overcooling something that I need to worry about?
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Nov 1, 2016 06:23
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Fork of Unknown Origins posted:Ok, so I've got everything picked out and on its way, the only thing I've got left to figure out is how to keep my fementer (plastic bucket) more or less temperature controlled. I'm not "there" to where I'm going to go out and buy a mini fridge/etc, but I am looking at getting a bigger bucket for my fermentation bucket to go in and cooling it with water/evaporative cooling. The OP mentions putting frozen water bottles in the water. Is there a risk that that will make it too cold? I have a thermometer to check the water temperature with but if there are ice bottles in there I imagine the water will start off a lot colder than the fermenter and then even out as the bottle melts. It depends a lot on how much your current environment changes I think. For the first year and a half I did no temperature control and by and large my beers came out good. The last year or so I put my fermentor inside a big tub and put ice packs in in the morning and at night to keep the temps around 64-67 versus the normal 68-73ish ambient. It made a noticible improvement in the pale and IPAs i made. Unless youre in some frozen wasteland you'll be hard pressed to be too cold for your yeast. Your yeast will make plenty of their own heat to stay warm.
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Nov 1, 2016 06:39
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Fork of Unknown Origins posted:Ok, so I've got everything picked out and on its way, the only thing I've got left to figure out is how to keep my fementer (plastic bucket) more or less temperature controlled. I'm not "there" to where I'm going to go out and buy a mini fridge/etc, but I am looking at getting a bigger bucket for my fermentation bucket to go in and cooling it with water/evaporative cooling.  , there's always this.
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Nov 1, 2016 06:42
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My apartment is usually around 68-72, but I read the yeast activity raises the fermentation temperature above ambient temperature. If people use a couple ice bottles and it's never a problem then I'm probably just overthinking it.
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Nov 1, 2016 06:47
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Yeah, before I had a mini fridge to ferment in I put my bucket in a Rubbermaid tub full of water, and switched out a frozen soda bottle once a day or so. Water has a lot of thermal mass, so it holds the temperature pretty steady as long as you get it in the ballpark.
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Nov 1, 2016 12:23
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Is there any style I can pull off by Thanksgiving if I brew tomorrow? I can temperature control the fermentation and force carb it. e: Any of the following? Saison Gose Steam Wheat
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Nov 1, 2016 12:44
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No experience with force-carbing or trying to go grain-to-glass quickly, but I bet you could do a wheat by then, considering it's a dead-simple style. How it will taste is another matter.
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Nov 1, 2016 12:48
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BrianBoitano posted:Is there any style I can pull off by Thanksgiving if I brew tomorrow? I can temperature control the fermentation and force carb it. Any of those could be done. You have two weeks to ferment the beer and still have a week left to slow condition in a keg. Just pick a yeast that gets its stuff done quickly and it shouldn't be a problem. You could do a cranberry gose, it would be quite festive! I have been co pitching the (Omega's) lacto with sacc, not using any hops and it's finished fermenting and terminally sour within a week. I did it most recently with mango and pineapple and it is carbonating now and super delicious. I also have a super simple semi-hoppy wheat recipe fermenting now that is fast. 50/50 Pacific NW pale and red wheat malt, 3oz (/5 gallons) citra at whirlpool for 45min and 2oz dry hop, I'm trying it with Conan but previous batched have had Chico or English ale yeasts and it's fine.
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Nov 1, 2016 13:09
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Mild OG (under 1.050) and a healthy yeast pitch (make a starter) will get you a fast ferment - you can get to FG in a week, easy. In fact, I have fifteen gallons of beer sitting at FG and pretty darn clear right now that I pitched yeast in seven and a half days ago. I could have kegged it last night, but I was busy with other stuff. Then crank up the regulator for 36-48 hours to get most of the way to fully carbonated beer - or use the TOTAL BALLER method to do it in a couple of hours. Let it sit at serving pressure for a few more days to round out the carbonation and get really ready for your guests' glasses. I've gone from grain to glass in ten days or so with my Best Bitter, but any session-strength beer should go just fine on that kind of schedule. Jo3sh fucked around with this message at 15:12 on Nov 1, 2016 |
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Nov 1, 2016 15:09
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I've done Grain-to-Glass in 6 days and so can you! Any decently active yeast in a proper environment can ferment in 3-5 days. I think mine was done bubbling at day 3 and racked off on day 4. 36 hours in the keg and force carbonation was done. I did a simple APA recipe with US-05. It likely would have been better to sit on the yeast for a while longer to 'clean up', but it was a perfectly drinkable house beer. Not sure I'd try this with anything over 1.050 OG.
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Nov 1, 2016 15:49
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Thanks all. I have some frozen cranberries, so that might be just the thing. Anyone have a good basic gose that I can add some cranberries to?
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Nov 1, 2016 16:06
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Der Penguingott posted:Your water doesn't look that bad to me, as long as you aren't planning on brewing any pilsners... If you do, just sub in 50% distilled water. This is really great, thank you. It makes it so much easier to understand adding how much of what will get my pH down to reasonable levels, and how it might affect the beer. Id better get some acid malt and lactic acid on order!
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Nov 1, 2016 16:08
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