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Sterndotstern posted:Yes, that part should not be dangling off the car. The shop that did the work should replace the piece that was dragging if it's damaged and secure them correctly. Yup that would be a good name for 'em. I took it by the shop, they are replacing the one that dragged and resecured the other one so all should be well with the world. @Orange Furious: I have an '02 530 with the sports package, and my rears have a visible negative camber. Seems like most others I see do as well. AFAIK it helps with power-on oversteer.
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Jul 14, 2009 23:13
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Most BMWs I've ever seen including the X5s have noticeable negative camber, it's just how they are.
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Jul 14, 2009 23:47
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Thanks, I feel better. The only other E38 I deal with regularly is a floaty-boaty '99 740il. No camber there, but no fun in the suspension either.
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Jul 15, 2009 05:37
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So I've gotten used to the M3 for the most part. One thing I've noticed though was a wobbling/shaking when braking. It's very subtle at lower speeds but at highway speeds it really throws the car around. It's got a Brembo brake job installed and it sits with a ridiculously slim clearance to the rim. Though, it it were hitting the rim I think I'd know. I know I could probably get this answered on another car thread, but I feel a little more comfortable in here. 
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Jul 15, 2009 06:19
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DevCore posted:So I've gotten used to the M3 for the most part. Sounds like warped rotors to me.
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Jul 15, 2009 06:31
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peterjmatt posted:Sounds like warped rotors to me. Hmm, yeah after doing some research that sounds exactly like what it is. gently caress, Brembo rotors are ~$80 for one. Is there a way to tell which rotor is warped? And also, I guess I need to know what caused the warping. If it's the pads then I'll just be throwing away another rotor.
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Jul 15, 2009 07:53
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DevCore posted:Hmm, yeah after doing some research that sounds exactly like what it is. I'd bet you the cost of a rotor that if you re-bed your brake pads, your wobble will go away. Highway frontage roads at night are great for this task. Step 1) Accelerate to 80 mph, make sure no one is behind you. Step 2) Brake *hard* to 20 mph, but do not stop. By "hard" I mean "hard enough to feel the brakes pulsing, squeek your tires, and throw your coffee cup against the dash," not "slowing down for a stoplight." Step 3) Repeat steps 1 & 2 three more times. You should feel the pedal get a little squishier as the fluid and pads should now be HOT. You might smell warm brakes, this is a good sign. Step 4) Drive around for ~15 minutes to cool the brakes, preferably without touching them at all. If you're on a frontage road, just get on the highway and drive for a few minutes. Step 5) Park the car overnight to allow the brakes to cool completely. Sterndotstern fucked around with this message at 17:20 on Jul 15, 2009 |
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Jul 15, 2009 17:13
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Sterndotstern posted:I'd bet you the cost of a rotor that if you re-bed your brake pads, your wobble will go away. You're probably right, rotors almost never "warp".
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Jul 15, 2009 17:31
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Could it be a worn out suspension component? I had "classic" warped rotor symptoms on my 300ZX, however, the problem was actual a worn out Toe arm.
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Jul 15, 2009 17:42
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DevCore posted:So I've gotten used to the M3 for the most part. "Warped rotors"? Sigh. I'd try replacing the control arms. On the E34 at least, it's a classic symptom that if you get steering wheel shudder when braking between ~100 km/h and 80 km/h, it's because of the upper control arms. I'm not sure if it's the bushing or busted ball joint that does it, but they're replaced as a whole unit anyway (arm + bushing + ball).
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Jul 15, 2009 17:52
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Exactly what I am talking about. Busted ball joint on the drivers side caused the steering wheel to shake under braking. I am just not sure what the suspension layout for his M3 is like.
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Jul 15, 2009 18:23
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Checking in on the BMW thread. I bought a 1988 325 yesterday for $1000. Runs like a champ but there are quite a few things that need to be addressed. Needs a new front right wheel bearing, Central locking needs to be sorted out, Wipers don't work except when using single wipe, Interior looks like it went through a tornado. The most pressing problem is the brake pedal will goto the floor sometimes. Always after I come to a stop or am moving slowly in a parking lot. Hoping a brake flush will fix that.
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Jul 16, 2009 02:24
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...Warped rotors may have been a poor term to use. Hot-spotted, uneven, poorly broken-in, bad pad contact, contaminated friction material, take your pick. Trying to re-bed the pads is worth a go, but usually when I see this complaint the fix ends up being new brakes. By all means, check the front suspension out before committing to brakes though. Lift the front wheels off the ground and gently shake them side to side; not forcefully enough to move the steering rack. If you feel some play you'll want to watch or feel the ball joints while someone shakes the wheels for you- there are two pressed into the control arms, and two on the tie rods (one one is underneath the dust boot and connects the tie rod to the rack). You'll also want to look carefully at the rubber bushing on the rears of the front control arms- cracked or torn bushings may cause a brake shimmy. In general, worn out components on the single-pivot front suspension setups like these don't just cause a brake shimmy like you're describing- they cause an all-the-time shimmy, or a shimmy under load. The dual pivot-point systems are a little different. It may not be an issue with your rotors, but it's still where I'd place my bets. ..And it seems that the term "warped rotors" is a bit of a hot-button. To me, the difference between "rotors irreparably damaged by hot spotting" and "warped rotors" is negligible but I'll try to respect the semantics in the future.
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Jul 16, 2009 04:54
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Well if your rotors were warped, you would need to replace them. If there are pad material deposits on them, you may be able to re-bed the pads to fix it, or you can fix it by having the rotors machined, and maybe sanding down the pads a little. At least this is why I make the distinction, I'm sure many do it just to be pedantic. (of this I am frequently guilty, just not on this topic).
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Jul 16, 2009 06:39
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ab0z posted:Well if your rotors were warped, you would need to replace them. If there are pad material deposits on them, you may be able to re-bed the pads to fix it, or you can fix it by having the rotors machined, and maybe sanding down the pads a little. At least this is why I make the distinction, I'm sure many do it just to be pedantic. (of this I am frequently guilty, just not on this topic). Unfortunately, the situation is almost exactly reversed. If rotors simply warped you'd be able to machine them flat again for short money. The problem is that rotors rarely "warp" the way a piece of wood can. Instead, they hot-spot for a variety of reasons. This actually changes the temper of the rotor, meaning that the wear characteristics are no longer uniform across the disc. This is an irreparable situation and the pads and rotors need to be replaced. If the run-out is caused by pad deposits, poorly broken-in pads, or surface rust on the rotor, then a simple run-in as described will be effective. However, sometimes it doesn't take much for a non-optimal braking situation to hot-spot a rotor, even if it's not to the point where the rotor becomes visibly blued. E53 X5s are notorious for this. And I've actually seen more warped (drat, I mean hot-spotted) after market performance rotors than stock. I'm not sure whether it's due to harder use, or less rotor mass. Seriously though, in the industry it's pretty common to just use the term "warped", even if that's not what's really going on. We call R-134A refrigerant "freon" as well.
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Jul 16, 2009 07:11
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I'm starting to think it might not be a good idea to re-bed the brakes before I get the other suspension components checked out, or at the very least get the car up on a jack and give the wheel a tug like peterjmatt suggested. Putting unnecessary stress on them seems like a bad idea, especially since I've got a 17 hour drive coming up in a couple of days.
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Jul 16, 2009 07:55
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So if I buy a 90 325i auto sedan will only the fat girls want to go for a ride?
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Jul 17, 2009 02:44
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Elephanthead posted:So if I buy a 90 325i auto sedan will only the fat girls want to go for a ride? Yes. Worse than that, they'll have herpes and be prudes.
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Jul 17, 2009 02:49
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Sweet, sold!
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Jul 17, 2009 03:16
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Guys I'm looking at this... http://sanantonio.craigslist.org/ctd/1269933421.html This is also it http://sanantonio.craigslist.org/ctd/1256233467.html My question is, do you guys know if BMW ever did two tone interiors like that on the 2nd link? Something doesn't sound right about this to me. Appreciate any help thanks dudes! UPDATE: I also got the VIN from this dude and did the carfax on it, this is the last entry. Thoughts? 06/08/2009 154,437 Auto Auction Sold at auction in Texas Listed as a dealer vehicle pistophchristoph fucked around with this message at 03:48 on Jul 17, 2009 |
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Jul 17, 2009 03:43
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I'm pretty sure Auto-Auction's are just what dealerships do when they get trade-ins from customers or need to get rid of some inventory to other dealerships. I doubt that's an issue, but I'm not an expert or anything.
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Jul 17, 2009 04:11
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When dealers get a used car, usually by trade in, if it is not something they would normally sell, they send it to auction, they also send off the cars that they are having a hard time selling. In this market it could mean anything.
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Jul 17, 2009 04:16
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Looks like I got here just in time for the tail end of the brake discussion. I drive a '86 528e (Same year as me), and my WORN BRAKES warning light is going off. I called up my regular mechanic to see how much replacement would be. $1000. Yup. For pads and rotors. He said it was because they were all OEM parts. That's when I remembered, I'm off work. I have tools. gently caress that noise, I'll do it myself. I googled "e28 brakes" and saw a few threads on the e28 forums, with some awesome pad and rotor recomendations. Then I promptly closed the tabs, and forgot what the hell I googled for, because I can't find the drat things. Soooo, that's a really long way of asking for pad and rotor recomendations. Right now I'm looking at the Brembo OEMish rotors and some middle-of-the-road pads off Tirerack. Apparently people like my car, I've had a rash of compliments lately, even some dude in a Jaguar pacing me through Seattle just to ask what it was. I've got plans for it, some big, some small, mainly keeping it/getting it as stock as possible. I use it year round, and the fogs got the poo poo kicked out of them by Snoqualmie pass. I need to replace them, or the glass at least. Gotta replace the valve cover gasket, which I've done easily in the past, on other cars though. The power steering leaks, so does the filler neck for the gas tank. I'll have to drop the tank and see if it can be fixed, or just replace it outright. The trunk seals are shot, so I need to unfuck the rear carpet and redo the seal. My driver's brakelight holder thingy is corroded (from said trunk seal), so I need to fix that. Oh, and the INSPECTION light never goes out since I had the tranny replaced (I've got the reset tool, no dice), and the coolant resevoir sensor is bad. Oh, and my speakers are going out one by one. I got the car from my dad, he's the 2nd owner, I believe. Now I see why he called it his million-dollar car. This summer will be fun.
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Jul 17, 2009 12:38
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Elephanthead posted:When dealers get a used car, usually by trade in, if it is not something they would normally sell, they send it to auction, they also send off the cars that they are having a hard time selling. In this market it could mean anything. Yea but the guy is a private seller, does that make a difference? Not to mention he was saying he got it from his Uncle... But the other question was did BMW ever do that 2 tone as seen the 2nd post? Where the back seat door handle is black but the rest is tan?
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Jul 17, 2009 13:57
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It just means it was sold at auction sometime in the past, obviously the best carfax you can get is dealer, one owner, then you, with 1500 mile maintenance updates ever 1500 miles/ 6 months. That report shouldn't eliminate the car from your list, but if your paying double retail price for a perfect car, it might give pause.
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Jul 17, 2009 14:01
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Elephanthead posted:It just means it was sold at auction sometime in the past, obviously the best carfax you can get is dealer, one owner, then you, with 1500 mile maintenance updates ever 1500 miles/ 6 months. That report shouldn't eliminate the car from your list, but if your paying double retail price for a perfect car, it might give pause. Ok, thanks I feel a little more comfortable. On another note my dad was saying that BMW basically does an inspection that they give their certified used cars, and it costs like $400, I was thinking it was worth it. Any of you BMW enthusiasts also think this is a good idea? Because I mean basically get a certified used car for alot less.
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Jul 17, 2009 14:06
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pistophchristoph posted:Ok, thanks I feel a little more comfortable. On another note my dad was saying that BMW basically does an inspection that they give their certified used cars, and it costs like $400, I was thinking it was worth it. Any of you BMW enthusiasts also think this is a good idea? Because I mean basically get a certified used car for alot less. A "certified used car" isn't expensive because of the inspection, it's expensive because of the warranty that they give you based on the inspection. So without a warranty, I doubt the inspection is anything special.
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Jul 17, 2009 21:02
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BossTweed posted:A "certified used car" isn't expensive because of the inspection, it's expensive because of the warranty that they give you based on the inspection. So without a warranty, I doubt the inspection is anything special. Oh ok, I would assume they do a thorough check though.
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Jul 17, 2009 21:38
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pistophchristoph posted:Oh ok, I would assume they do a thorough check though. Sure, it should be a good inspection. I don't know how much different it would be than if you asked for a pre-purchase inspection at an independent shop, which could be cheaper. I'm sure they could give you a list of what they check and you could compare.
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Jul 17, 2009 21:46
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Carbon Deity posted:I cleaned the hell out of the M3 yesterday and grabbed some shots that I just have to share with you guys. Holy crap, it's gorgeous and it looks brand new. Nice job
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Jul 17, 2009 21:51
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VacaGrande posted:Most BMWs I've ever seen including the X5s have noticeable negative camber, it's just how they are. They pretty much have some negative rear camber built in.
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Jul 17, 2009 21:52
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Keyser_Soze fucked around with this message at 22:14 on Jul 17, 2009 |
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Jul 17, 2009 21:54
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DevCore posted:
1. Dented Rim 2. Worn Front Control Arm Bushings/Ball/Joints/Tie Rods Would be the top 2 culprits for what you describe, in my experience. Maybe swap the wheels around and see if it helps to test #1 but since you say it's primarily during braking check #2 out first. pistophchristoph posted:Guys I'm looking at this... Go search for E46's with "NATURAL BROWN" interior, I believe that's what it is. It's basically an option for black everything except the seats, which are a darker brown than the fugly stock tan color. Keyser_Soze fucked around with this message at 22:36 on Jul 17, 2009 |
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Jul 17, 2009 21:59
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you don`t need a post for every quote, god drat
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Jul 17, 2009 22:04
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Keyser S0ze posted:1. Dented Rim Couldn't it also be a sign of warped rotors, or is that less likely?
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Jul 17, 2009 22:05
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MetaJew posted:Couldn't it also be a sign of warped rotors, or is that less likely? extremely less likely, check all the rubber suspension bits up front or have it done at an indy shop. Bimrs.org can find you one.
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Jul 17, 2009 22:15
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Keyser S0ze posted:
Ohhh I see, must not be picked very often then... Thanks dude! BossTweed posted:Sure, it should be a good inspection. I don't know how much different it would be than if you asked for a pre-purchase inspection at an independent shop, which could be cheaper. I'm sure they could give you a list of what they check and you could compare. This is true, It would be nice if it were all online... 
pistophchristoph fucked around with this message at 23:00 on Jul 17, 2009 |
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Jul 17, 2009 22:58
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alright, my E36 car is possessed. While I was driving today, the HVAC system (which was off) went haywire. The blower ramped up to full speed and back a few times, and the vent doors opened and closed - it would go from defrost, to dash, to floor, and back. It sounds to me like either a bad ground, or a messed up resistor pack (I think there's two separate ones). Anybody else ever experience this? (I have a 1997 328i, so I have the dual zone digital climate control)
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Jul 18, 2009 02:31
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CornHolio posted:alright, my E36 car is possessed. Nope, sounds like the climate control computer (IHKA) is toast. I've heard a few stories of people sending them out for repairs, or even replacing individual circuit components themselves. Since I work for a dealer though, I just replace the whole computer. Sorry, it's an expensive part.
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Jul 18, 2009 02:37
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peterjmatt posted:Nope, sounds like the climate control computer (IHKA) is toast. I've heard a few stories of people sending them out for repairs, or even replacing individual circuit components themselves. Since I work for a dealer though, I just replace the whole computer. Sorry, it's an expensive part. Well if thats the case, Ill wait till it really gets annoying (as in doesnt work at all), then Ill send it to this guy and get it fixed for $49 plus shipping.
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Jul 18, 2009 02:41
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