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melon cat posted:I see. But the trap adapter (B) transitions the pipe from 1 1/2" to 1 1/4. If I connect this adapter to the pipe coming out of the wall, does that mean that I need to "reduce" my entire trap assrmbly's size to 1 1/4" (hopefully that made sense)? The marvel adapter, B, enlarges the 1 1/4" drain from your sink to 1 1/2" for your trap assembly. The marvel adaper is the first thing the drain from your sink touches. The no hub coupling is used to attach the back of the trap to the pipe sticking out of the wall. That way the trap can be removed by loosening the marvel adaper and the no hub coupling and slipping the entire trap out to clear a clog. You will need to use pieces of 1 1/2" abs to go between the marvel adaper and the trap and the trap and the no hub coupling. Make sure you glue both pieces of your abs-abs connections and give them a twist so the glue seals well.
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Oct 20, 2014 03:16
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sirr0bin posted:The marvel adapter, B, enlarges the 1 1/4" drain from your sink to 1 1/2" for your trap assembly. The marvel adaper is the first thing the drain from your sink touches. 
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Oct 20, 2014 03:54
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melon cat posted:I think I understand what you're suggesting. Is this it? Just imagine that this is actually connected to a pipe sticking out of a wall... Yep you got it!
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Oct 20, 2014 05:11
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sirr0bin posted:Yep you got it! melon cat fucked around with this message at 23:56 on Oct 20, 2014 |
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Oct 20, 2014 14:18
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melon cat posted:Awesome. Thanks for confirming that. I was initially confused because I thought that the marvel adapter got glued to the pipe coming out of the wall. The marvel adapter would go there if you wanted to do all slip joint piping from the sink to the wall, that other option that I mentioned. But the way you're doing it works too and with that no hub coupling will definitely be easier to take apart should a clog form at some point in the future. Last piece of advice: before you glue anything to anything, first make sure that all your pieces fit together! That also includes figuring out if you will be able to remove/put on any subassemblies once those parts are glued together, i.e. you don't want to find out after the fact that those pieces you just glued together outside the cabinet can't even fit into the cabinet to put them on, or that you can get them into the cabinet, but you can't maneuver it onto the sink drain because it sticks down too far. Plan ahead! 
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Oct 21, 2014 00:35
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I'm installing a new drop-in tub and my main concern is that it has enough support / weight displacement that it doesn't fall through the floor. I'm going to build a frame around it per usual but the deviation from all articles I've found online is that it comes with four self-levelling feet which most articles don't mention. Do I still need to use a mortar bed for it? Any other considerations?
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Oct 21, 2014 04:23
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kid sinister posted:The marvel adapter would go there if you wanted to do all slip joint piping from the sink to the wall, that other option that I mentioned. But the way you're doing it works too and with that no hub coupling will definitely be easier to take apart should a clog form at some point in the future. I understand. And thanks for the tips about planning ahead. I nearly learned that lesson the hard way when dry-fitting the new vanity. It just *barely* fit into the space (I'm talking by a millimeter).  I forgot to ask a question about the tailpiece. How far down should the new sink drain go into into the tailpiece? Just enough to bypass the marvel adapter? I did a mock-up on the diagram provided earlier in this thread in case I'm not explaining it correctly:  And is the marvel adapter supposed to have a washer, of some sort? Because I disassembled the one I bought, but it doesn't seem to have one. melon cat fucked around with this message at 06:03 on Oct 21, 2014 |
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Oct 21, 2014 05:10
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I replaced my hot water heater in August and now it smells again  It's not a sulfur-poo poo smell now, though. Now it smells a bit like dough. Does my hot water heater have a yeast infection?
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Oct 21, 2014 13:41
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ijustam posted:I replaced my hot water heater in August and now it smells again When is the last time you had your water tested? Is it public or well? Any treatment? (filters, softeners, etc)
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Oct 21, 2014 13:52
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When I bought the house, last year. I'm due to have it tested in a few weeks. It's a well w/ a softener. I replaced the water filter today and it was orange as all hell and drained part of the water heater but I don't have all day so I didn't drain much of it.
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Oct 21, 2014 17:59
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ijustam posted:I replaced the water filter today and it was orange as all hell You have iron bacteria or something similar. It loves to crud up pipes and especially boilermate tanks or hot water heater tanks. There are treatments options available but they are all expensive. I flush my pipes several times a year with peroxide or chlorine(poured into an empty filter housing, run the water until you smell it, stop and let it sit for an hour then thoroughly flush. I do NOT have hot water storage, which would complicate this process. I'd imagine you would need to bypass the water heater/tank to clean the pipes effectively and figure out some other method of treating the holding tank. Using "green" salt (the rust preventer stuff) in the softener seems to help.
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Oct 21, 2014 18:18
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Is it within reason to replace the water filter ever 3 months?
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Oct 21, 2014 20:37
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ijustam posted:Is it within reason to replace the water filter ever 3 months? Depending on the filter and how much sediment you are pulling up that may be the longest you'd want to go. It's not going to significantly help your bacteria situation though.
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Oct 21, 2014 21:04
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melon cat posted:I understand. And thanks for the tips about planning ahead. I nearly learned that lesson the hard way when dry-fitting the new vanity. It just *barely* fit into the space (I'm talking by a millimeter). The answer is it should go in "enough". By that, I mean that enough tailpiece should extend down into the threaded/marvel/trap adapter that the slip nut and slip washer will make a good seal. In other words, "enough" is anywhere from "just barely makes a seal" to "so much fits in that the tailpiece hits the turn in the trap down below". And yes, you may need a slip washer for that nut on the marvel adapter. Bathroom sink tailpieces need a 1&1/4" slip washer. If you got a larger 1&1/2" threaded/marvel/trap adapter though, they do make 1&1/4" -> 1&1/2" slip washers to make up the diameter difference.
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Oct 21, 2014 21:49
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kid sinister posted:The answer is it should go in "enough". By that, I mean that enough tailpiece should extend down into the threaded/marvel/trap adapter that the slip nut and slip washer will make a good seal. In other words, "enough" is anywhere from "just barely makes a seal" to "so much fits in that the tailpiece hits the turn in the trap down below". A question about installing a new faucet. I've nearly got this part done, but the lift rod is giving me some trouble. There's seems to be a lot of resistance in it. The action isn't smooth at all. Is it common practice to have to bend the lift rid on order to make it fit your counterspace properly?
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Oct 26, 2014 05:15
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melon cat posted:Thanks for the follow-up. Working on things as we speak The lift rod needs to be straight so that it can be pulled smoothly through the hole in the back of the faucet. Is it hitting the sink under the faucet base? You may need to loosen the faucet from the sink and move it slightly. If you still have problems after that, you can bend around on the lift rod strap and move the spring clip up and down the pivot rod as needed. If that STILL doesn't work, You may have tightened down the pivot rod nut too much.
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Oct 26, 2014 16:01
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kid sinister posted:The lift rod needs to be straight so that it can be pulled smoothly through the hole in the back of the faucet. Is it hitting the sink under the faucet base? You may need to loosen the faucet from the sink and move it slightly. If you still have problems after that, you can bend around on the lift rod strap and move the spring clip up and down the pivot rod as needed. If that STILL doesn't work, You may have tightened down the pivot rod nut too much. Here's my new set up. I used the no-hub coupling method that was discussed before.  But there's a leak. Right at the union (circled in bright green). A leak forms at that one particular spot.  I tried to hand-tighten it, but the leak persists. Should I tighten it using Channel locks? I'm thinking that my new pipe (the vertical one connecting into the sink) might be too long. I was so close to having it all successfully put together.... Additional outside view in case it helps: 
melon cat fucked around with this message at 04:03 on Oct 27, 2014 |
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Oct 27, 2014 03:22
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Tighten it up with some channel locks and you should be good to go! Looks good!
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Oct 27, 2014 03:33
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I disassembled the new trap asembly, then put it back together. Then re-tightened it with my Channel Locks. It now appears to be leak-free! Here's to hoping it stays that way. Thanks to all of you guys for answering my many inane questions about ABS piping. 
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Oct 29, 2014 01:32
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Question for the plumbing experts: I am redoing my Kitchen right now and in the process of removing the 40 yr old, built in place cabinets, discovered and interesting pipe job. Instead of running the kitchen sink lines through the outer wall, the builders ran them under the corner cabinet about 2" off the floor (concrete slab). These are circa 1968 galvanized cast iron pipes with probably about 50% flow max. I was thinking about replacing them, but I guess the decision has been made because my new cabinets will not fit without cutting up the bases. I am lucky I didn't bust one when I was removing the old cabinets.  About 7 years ago I added 500 sq ft onto the back of the house (family room, 2nd bathroom) so the exterior kitchen wall is now the family room wall. I had a plumber run copper pipe to the new bathroom, tapping into the existing iron pipe behind the 1st bathroom shower stall (which was replaced also). I also replaced the water heater 2 months ago, using cast iron at the fittings, adding an expansion tank and a copper fridge water line.  My plan: Tap into the cast iron behind the water heater, accessing thru the washer and dryer wall(blue X). Replace the iron from the water heater to the copper add-on with pex myself. I want to run the pex to the front yard, where we have PE to the house, but that will have to wait until next year. I will be replacing all hot/cold connections, and place the kitchen sink lines in the wall correctly.  Does sound like a good plan for now? I plan on crimping the pex (not sharkbites, probably stainless cinch clamps), but may use a sharkbite to connect to the iron until spring. I may be able to find a threaded connection, but I have not opened up that wall yet. Is it stupid to go iron --> pex --> copper. I don't want to learn to sweat copper on the fly, and my budget is tight already to hire someone(over 10k invested in cabinets and appliances so far). I am doing all the kitchen work myself, and on a scale of 1-10, probably around a 5 or so in plumbing. Never did pex though. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Fire is not out of the question.
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Oct 31, 2014 05:15
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Meydey posted:Question for the plumbing experts: It sounds like a plan. I wouldn't call it "stupid", but I would think that it wasn't consistent, but if it works, it works. One thing to keep in mind when retrofitting PEX or any plastic piping into old houses is to watch for breaking electrical grounding paths, especially if you're going to be replacing near the service entrance like you have planned. Metal supply pipes were and are used for grounding electrical panels, or sometimes even low voltage stuff like phone lines, or even individual outlets for a 3 prong upgrade. Because plastic pipes exist now, metal pipes are only allowed to be grounded to if it's within 6 feet of the service entrance, with the idea being that you can inspect all the piping in that 6 feet for any plastic. Check all along those galvanized pipes if any wires are clamped to them. If you see any, then you will have some electrical work to extend too. Also, sweating copper isn't very hard to learn. Just make sure that your lines are bone dry and you protect whatever is behind your joint from the torch's heat. Check out Youtube, there are all kinds of tutorials on there for sweating copper and crimping PEX.
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Oct 31, 2014 21:41
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Thanks. I have not found any grounds on the existing pipes, but will probably keep the old pipe in place if it is not in the way anyways. There is a ground pole on the outside of the house, but I do not know what it connects to. I think I can make the incoming iron to pex connection at the water heater T, which will make it easy to do the rest next year. My father in law is going to swing by tomorrow and give his advice. I know he did at least one copper retrofit, but he's 80 now so... My wife is afraid that I will burn down the neighborhood if get a torch in my hands. I told her a hole in the fiberglass tub was more likely, that did not go over well.
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Nov 1, 2014 00:31
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Ok, so, um. Weird development. I thought it was just the shower at first that had the temperature fluctuating. But no, it's in the tub, and in the sink faucet as well. You turn on a mix of hot and cold and you can feel it shifting back and forth probably about 15-20 degrees. Doesn't do that anywhere else in the condo. I'm so confused.
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Nov 6, 2014 01:58
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I'm looking to install a backup sump pump in my basement. The instructions for the new pump want me to connect the output of the new pump downstream from the check valve of the existing pump. The check valve is reasonably high up the wall (green box in the picture). Is it OK for me to install a second check valve on the main pump's output closer to the pump, resulting in two check valves in the output for the main pump? Existing installation: 
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Nov 8, 2014 19:49
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A follow-up question about this no-hub coupling set up: I'm currently using it in my new bathroom vanity set-up, and it seems to be working beautifully. But is a similar set-up suitable for a double kitchen sink? Just wondering if no-hub couplings should or shouldn't be used for such an application.
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Nov 10, 2014 05:32
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melon cat posted:A follow-up question about this no-hub coupling set up: Yep shouldn't be a problem, just make sure the second sink connects in before the P-trap, not after it. A wye connection is better than a tee where you connect the second sink into the drain line (water keeps moving instead of potentially sitting and collecting debris).
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Nov 10, 2014 07:06
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Alright so apparently the drain for my entire bathroom is clogged. Was in the shower just now when I heard my toilet start gurgling, then water started backflowing up the shower drain. Got out and gave the toilet a test flush, sure enough it came up the shower drain. I've tried plunging them both to no avail; there's currently about a half inch of standing water in the shower and it's not going down at all. What do I do?
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Nov 14, 2014 05:22
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Do you have any other fixtures that feed into that main drain? What happens at the kitchen? Sounds like you may either have a big blockage or roots.. tater_salad fucked around with this message at 05:50 on Nov 14, 2014 |
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Nov 14, 2014 05:42
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Yep, just checked and with the kitchen sink running it backflows into the shower (my shower is recessed about 3 inches into the floor, so it's the lowest drain in the house.) I was sick all last night and this morning, was throwing up and using a lot of toilet paper, so that could definitely be the issue. Is there anything I can do to fix this, or is it "call a plumber" territory?
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Nov 14, 2014 05:53
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Sounds like you are in call a plumper territory. Do you have trees where your main sewer line is? Most likely you have roots and all that tp has gotten tangled. Dont call rotorooter they charge by the foot (at least in my area) call an actual plimbing shop that charges by the hour.
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Nov 14, 2014 13:05
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Fucknag posted:Yep, just checked and with the kitchen sink running it backflows into the shower (my shower is recessed about 3 inches into the floor, so it's the lowest drain in the house.) Do you know where you clean out it? Sounds like it's probably downstream of that. You need some stuff to do anything about it, more stuff depending on what you find, and it's a truly "lovely job". You can usually rent a power rooter from any decent tool rental place, which would likely take care of it. But if you have the money........call a plumber. Because you will NOT like this job. It's right on up there with my christmas present last year: digging up my sanitary lines form the house to the septic box because they had bellied and clogged due to improper installation (should have done it myself the first time). The only way these jobs can be any worse is if you are digging around in some ELSE's poo poo. So I'd say this is solidly second from the bottom on the list of worst small jobs to do around a house.
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Nov 14, 2014 16:53
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Around me I can rent a rooter for $50 for 4 hours (drive time included) or I can call a plumber (granted im spoiled they live next door) and a root job is usually around 70 bux (I do it 2x a year because I have trees on near line that grow in) Ive had a bad clog and I think it cost me 130 for them to do it. Basically you can save $70 and dick around to try uncloging yourself, or spend a bit more and let someone else who knows what they are doing deal with standingnin the cold and getting covered in cold shitwater.
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Nov 14, 2014 17:08
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When threads in the DIY subforum are telling you that you could, but don't want to do this particular job, you know it's a truly lovely job. pun not intended, but leaving it anyway. Dragyn fucked around with this message at 17:30 on Nov 14, 2014 |
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Nov 14, 2014 17:25
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tater_salad posted:call a plumper territory. Hehehe
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Nov 14, 2014 22:17
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Depends on the area and just how handy you are if you should call a plumber or not. About the cheapest you can get a main cleared through a cleanout around here is 150ish, some places charge as much as 500 for cabling + cameraing a line. (with the camera survey being a mandatory part of the job) That is before any afterhours / emergency service fee. Around here you can also rent the equipment for like 65 bucks for a day.
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Nov 16, 2014 06:37
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Jadunk posted:Depends on the area and just how handy you are if you should call a plumber or not. About the cheapest you can get a main cleared through a cleanout around here is 150ish, some places charge as much as 500 for cabling + cameraing a line. (with the camera survey being a mandatory part of the job) That is before any afterhours / emergency service fee. ^^ this.. If you haven't already called around to get a price this is important.. I live in a cheap area.. so for me it's not much more to call a "plumper". for you it may be worth watching a few youtube videos and running the snake on your own.. for me, by the time I drive pick the basket snake up, drive home, run it, it's cheaper to call the guys next door for 45/hr x2 for them to show up for 45 min. Either way.. dont' call roto-rooter unless you want them to snake your wallet with the rape bit.
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Nov 16, 2014 08:12
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tater_salad posted:Either way.. dont' call roto-rooter unless you want them to snake your wallet with the rape bit. Depends on the area for roto-rooter, around here one of them is cheap and their average tech is pretty good the other is cheap but their techs are mostly poo poo. They are franchises after all, each one will have different pricing.
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Nov 16, 2014 11:15
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The drain for my kitchen sink in my apartment is comprised of what I'm pretty sure are compression fittings. About every month they work themselves loose and leak under the sink. Are compression fittings inherently bad or are mine just crap and need to be replaced?
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Nov 17, 2014 06:20
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FISHMANPET posted:The drain for my kitchen sink in my apartment is comprised of what I'm pretty sure are compression fittings. About every month they work themselves loose and leak under the sink. Are compression fittings inherently bad or are mine just crap and need to be replaced? Slip joints are known to do that, the more you have the more trouble you're going to have. Have you tried replacing the washers and cleaning the outside of the pipe you're attaching them to?
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Nov 17, 2014 08:41
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Not my loving problem, sounds like the landlords problem. If he wants to let the brand new cabinets rot out from under him that's his problem. Every time the garbage disposal jams, the maintenance guy comes and sticks a broom handle into it to get it unjammed, and every time he's done that, it's caused the pipe that goes from the disposal into the trap to just twist out, and the maintenance guy never thinks to check, even after I told the landlord they need to explicitly make sure they haven't wrenched the pipes apart every time. Sorry, a little pissed, currently trying to break my lease due to bad maintenance stuff.
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Nov 17, 2014 08:46
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