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Bad Munki posted:Ah, see, not a witch, simply a charlatan. The trick is that one of your pieces is two halves. I think the claim involved three solid pieces, not four that look like three. If you use the mortise/tenon method, yes. The other method is three solid pieces, though there is an extra filler piece for the joint. In the end the whole thing could just be made of some sort of composite material and covered in veneer and you'd get the same effect.
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Sep 29, 2011 03:42
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Bad Munki posted:Ah, see, not a witch, simply a charlatan. The trick is that one of your pieces is two halves. I think the claim involved three solid pieces, not four that look like three. Its three solid pieces and one key? I don't think you can say "it can't be done," although I've never seen that joint made. Also all joinery is more than meets the eye, I started a woodworking apprenticeship this monday and started documenting how a bent laminate was made, noticing a few cool tricks. Seeing complex roundovers made by shoulder planes alone is neat too.
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Sep 29, 2011 18:03
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No, that was exactly the point, that three continuous pieces at right angles to each other all going through the same space can't be done without gaps, or extra pieces. I mean, this isn't a thesis-level claim or anything, it was more just that that's what was being said, and the. Someone said, "I've seen it," but it turned out that no, it still used split parts or extra pieces.  Also, I love looking at joints and finding out where the extra secrety bits are, or how the parts are actually cut. It's often really surprising.
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Sep 29, 2011 18:11
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Just picked up a "Zenith" bandsaw for 125$ - upon further investigation it actually looks like a Rockwell 28-200! Saw runs great, guide blocks and bearing are in good shape  I also found the dealer that is an hour from me and sells tons of parts for this specific bandsaw.
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Sep 29, 2011 19:08
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Bad Munki posted:No, that was exactly the point, that three continuous pieces at right angles to each other all going through the same space can't be done without gaps, or extra pieces. I haven't spent much time thinking about it, but why not?
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Sep 29, 2011 23:29
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wormil posted:I haven't spent much time thinking about it, but why not? Physics. You can't have that many pieces intersect in the same space while occupying all the area or having one of them cut into two. Skinny Bins showed how you could sort of do it, but it required a gap and a 4th piece to be inserted.
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Sep 30, 2011 00:19
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Well, a person could relatively easily design three pieces that would mate into such an arrangment, but assembling them wouldn't be possible without some extradimensional contortions.
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Sep 30, 2011 03:15
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Bad Munki posted:Well, a person could relatively easily design three pieces that would mate into such an arrangment, but assembling them wouldn't be possible without some extradimensional contortions. You're probably need the Large Hadron collider to do it.
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Sep 30, 2011 04:15
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Blistex posted:Physics. You can't have that many pieces intersect in the same space while occupying all the area or having one of them cut into two. I'll have to think about this. There are 3 piece wooden puzzles that when assembled are all at right angles. I assume they are tricky on purpose because they are puzzles but maybe they are complicated because it's just complicated. But ultimately I'm not trying to make a puzzle and it would probably be better if they were not at right angles. I don't see why it couldn't be made simple if you cut 2 laps on each piece and insert the last piece on a 22.5 degree angle to the first two. Wish I had learned Sketchup so I could try to model what I'm imagining.
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Sep 30, 2011 04:35
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wormil posted:Wish I had learned Sketchup so I could try to model what I'm imagining. e: iPhone auto spell... jvick fucked around with this message at 17:54 on Sep 30, 2011 |
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Sep 30, 2011 06:53
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jvick posted:really you can learn it in about an hour. Just watch a couple of the tutorials and get the hang of it. I was airports how easy it was and I've never worked with any sort of cad program before. likewise, I picked it up in an hour or two, just have to learn the basic functions of it and you're set to do simple squared shapes.
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Sep 30, 2011 09:02
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So my girlfriend and I recently moved into our own place. Neither of us had more furniture besides a couch and bed. So I decided that one of the first things I'd like to build is a TV stand so that I can free up my little table to use as a temporary coffee table. I have built a similar TV stand before, but left that with my old roommate. I tried to modify that design and make this one a bit more clean. One of my main goals was to make the design easy to hide all of the cables between the stereo, PS3, DirecTV, and TV itself. To achieve this I cut some strategically placed holes and blocked off the back of the middle shelf. I originally planned to have the middle shelf on the back span the width of the stand, but I screwed up a cut and had to improvise. The wood turned out a bit lighter than I wanted, but I do like the way the grain looks. Doing it again, I would have tried to darken the wood enough to match the speakers better. Wood: Birch Ply (1 sheet) Finish: Zar Ultra Polyurethane Clear Satin Joinery: Dadoes Finished Stand   Hidden compartment and holes (before/after)   Grain closeup 
jvick fucked around with this message at 01:24 on Oct 1, 2011 |
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Sep 30, 2011 18:07
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jvick posted:So my girlfriend and I recently moved into our own place. Neither of us had more furniture besides a couch and bed. So I decided that one of the first things I'd like to build is a TV stand so that I can free up my little table to use as a temporary coffee table. I have built a similar TV stand before, but left that with my old roommate. I tried to modify that design and make this one a bit more clean. love those speakers, what are they?
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Sep 30, 2011 18:38
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MMD3 posted:love those speakers, what are they? Want to buy them?!
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Sep 30, 2011 19:09
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MarshallX posted:I just wanted to warn you to be very careful, some wood is not at all good for bow making and without tillering it properly or using the right wood you could seriously hurt yourself. There is a ton of energy stored in the limbs when a bow is pulled and I have seen pictures of guys who have taken their noses off when one blows out. You scared me pretty good so I went out and bought the straightest boards of Oak and Maple with the straightest and closest grain. When you put the silk on how did you stain the bow without it messing up the silk?
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Oct 2, 2011 05:02
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jvick posted:Thanks, they're 1980 Klipsch LaScalla's I got from my bachelor uncle. They sound amazing. haha, I don't have room for them, nor would the blonde wood match anything else I have. Currently using some Aperion Audio bookshelf speakers with cherry veneer. One day I'll have room for floor speakers  those are really beautiful though, you should keep them around.
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Oct 2, 2011 07:41
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jvick posted:Thanks, they're 1980 Klipsch LaScalla's I got from my bachelor uncle. They sound amazing. No. but we want you to take detailed pics and explain how we could build a pair. They're perfect.
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Oct 3, 2011 02:29
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Circus Pies! posted:You scared me pretty good so I went out and bought the straightest boards of Oak and Maple with the straightest and closest grain. I put a coating of titebond III over the silk and let it dry before I stained, basically seals the silk.
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Oct 3, 2011 15:27
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Anyone have tips or suggestions for a shellac first-timer? I'm currently in the process of making a wooden cheese board (NOT cutting board) for my mom. The plan is to etch the design in with a woodburning pen, sand/tack cloth it, add some light color with watercolors or heavily diluted acrylics (I'm more after a "wash" look than bold, bright colors) and oil with linseed. Finally, I'd like to put some kind of food-safe sealant over the paint after the design is completed so the food doesn't come directly in contact with the painted surface. Unfortunately, non-toxic wood sealants are hard to come by. Since the board is just for serving and won't be used for chopping or other heavy-duty purposes that might crack the finish, shellac seems to be a good choice. If y'all have any other suggestions, please feel free to sing out. This spray form is on sale at Amazon and seems ideal, but even though it says non-toxic I'm skeptical of putting something that comes out of an aerosol can over a serving piece. Conversely, this flake form comes highly recommended and seems ideal for display purposes, but I'm concerned about application and whether "dewaxed" means anything with regard to a food piece. Any advice or tips would be so, so appreciated. Thanks very much in advance -- pictures coming soon! The talent displayed in this thread is amazing -- I'm in awe of all of your projects.
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Oct 4, 2011 18:02
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Shellac is easy enough to wipe on, so you don't need an aerosol spray to apply it. Dewaxed just means that the small amount of naturally occurring wax is removed. Supposedly this helps other top coat materials adhere better. From the research I've done, varnishes are food-safe once fully cured (>1 month).
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Oct 4, 2011 19:39
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Does anyone have any experience with pourable epoxy finish? I need a super glossy finish over the walnut veneer in my old car. I'm thinking this stuff: http://www.eclecticproducts.com/GlazeCoat.htm I want to do a true thick gloss coat. My current setup is like this:  I made it myself and finished the wood with shellac, but it's not truly glossy and it's only a rebuilt fascia. I'm going to totally rebuild the console from scratch so that it isn't just wood pieces on top of the old parts. I figure in the process I'll opt for the actual high-gloss finish I wanted in the first place.
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Oct 5, 2011 01:10
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Search for info on epoxies used for finishing fretless bass fingerboards. They are all after the same thing high gloss, durability.
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Oct 5, 2011 01:52
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I finally strung my little bow and I will never try to shoot this thing. I didn't tiller it enough and it will most likely snap if i put any more tension on the string.   I'm pretty proud of the nocks.  Not so proud of the splinter.  This was a good exercise for making a real bow I think. Now I know what to watch out for and I realize that I need to make a proper tillering jig. I think it will look good on the wall though.
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Oct 5, 2011 03:26
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I have a room that I am refinishing and one of things I want to do is convert a really awful closest setup into a built-in cabinet/shelf unit. It was actually a closet and then two linen.. mini-closets or boxes, basically 2'x2'x2' cubbyholes with lovely doors. The issue is that between the closet and the cubbyholes is a 6"x6" load-bearing post that divides my nice little space. What I want is to put posts on either side so I can remove the post and the small section of wall behind it. The beam is solid the entire length so conceptually it doesn't seem like it should be a problem to re-arrange things here. The issue is I'm not sure what exactly to put there. It's a 6x6 so would I use two 2x6s lashed together on each end so I end up with as much supporting material as I started with or do I need something more substantial? Can I get away with less? Another thing that I am unsure about is that there is a roughly 2" thick plinth underneath the post. Is it necessary to replicate that? In other words, is it there because the floor is not designed to take the post directly (why would that even be the case, who knows!) I'm guessing it's insurance against moisture on the floor but after 50 years, that hasn't been a problem. edit: or can I just use a shoring post to hold things temporarily and then move the existing post to either side with a wood caul on the top or an ad hoc plinth of hydraulic cement? edit2: red outline is a perspective drawing of the space that I want to create. One last note, the foundation is about 6-8' to the left of the 6x6 (the room is in the daylight basement). 
kafkasgoldfish fucked around with this message at 04:21 on Oct 5, 2011 |
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Oct 5, 2011 04:05
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I'm not an engineer or anything so I wouldn't dare speak to the soundness or possibility of moving the post, but: I don't know why but I think a lot of places require that footer under the post in order to be up to code. Also, I don't think it's necessarily valid to suppose that two double-2x6 posts is equivalent to one 6x6 post. Could be it'd work, could be the thinner material would be more susceptible to the forces applied. Looks like that whole thing is in your basement, which means it's holding up another floor (or two!) in which case, y'know, it might be worthwhile to actually consult a professional--in a paid, professional capacity--on this one.
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Oct 5, 2011 04:25
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MMD3 posted:haha, I don't have room for them, nor would the blonde wood match anything else I have. Currently using some Aperion Audio bookshelf speakers with cherry veneer. One day I'll have room for floor speakers iwannabebobdylan posted:No. but we want you to take detailed pics and explain how we could build a pair. They're perfect. If you're serious, it's generally cheaper to buy an older pair and refinish them. Otherwise the common practice is to buy a crappy old pair and use the parts. But there are a few plans online. This PDF is a detailed version of this copy from 1977 (page 1) (page 2). Plans in metric units Here are some additional pictures of my pair. Apparently they're from 1990, I thought they were from '80.      
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Oct 5, 2011 04:25
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Hecuba posted:and oil with linseed. You can put oil under shellac but in this case gain nothing from it. I wouldn't recommend linseed oil, the commonly available variety is boiled linseed oil which has petroleum additives and metallic dryers. Food grade linseed oil is really flaxseed oil and will go rancid. Mineral oil is safe. Don't buy anything fancy though, just buy unscented, pure mineral oil from the grocery store. Varnish/poly and lacquer are also food safe once fully cured. I don't know if watercolors or acrylics are food safe or not, my gut reaction would be to use food safe dyes instead.
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Oct 5, 2011 04:50
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kafkasgoldfish posted:The issue is that between the closet and the cubbyholes is a 6"x6" load-bearing post that divides my nice little space. Without understanding how that post fits into the whole structure, my guess is that you would have to beef up the joist it's supporting, maybe by sistering plywood or steel plates to each side depending on the load, while adding additional supports to each side of the closet. If you have floors above I would definitely contact a professional.
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Oct 5, 2011 05:12
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wormil posted:Without understanding how that post fits into the whole structure, my guess is that you would have to beef up the joist it's supporting, maybe by sistering plywood or steel plates to each side depending on the load, while adding additional supports to each side of the closet. If you have floors above I would definitely contact a professional. Yea, for some reason I thought it'd be easier than that but I've found some decent resources online that suggest it's a much bigger pain in the rear end. I'll just call someone and pay them to tell me what I need to do.
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Oct 5, 2011 06:09
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Circus Pies! posted:I finally strung my little bow and I will never try to shoot this thing. I didn't tiller it enough and it will most likely snap if i put any more tension on the string. Not bad man! Without a backing you are guaranteed to have the bow break. The only way to have a non-backed self-bow is to chase a ring in a raw log so that you have the same ring of wood all the way down the stave. Your bow looks fine, but yeah a tillering tree is very important because if you have a hitch, you are pretty much screwed when you draw the bow. Here is my latest bow, it pulls 39.5# @ 28" and is Hickory Backed Cherry with a Cocobolo Riser. It shoots really sweet, probably nicer than the bow I posted earlier. I'd love to get these bows on a chrono...typical compound bows shoot at around 310fps - good longbows are about 200 fps - i'd be surprised if mine was even 150.  
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Oct 5, 2011 14:56
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I just came into possession of a ryobi table saw, a 3hp ryobi plunge router, a belt sander, and an assortment of bits and jigs I haven't organized. All from my deceased grandfathers shop. I also own basic tools like a power drill and mechanics stuff. the big question is what are some good projects for the beginner woodworker who would like to get aquainted with his new toys, and eventually move to no or limited upholstery furniture(tables and chairs, bookcases, desks, etc) and possible some decorative woodworking(wall hanging sculpture kinda). My father operates a CNC woodworking router at work, so I can have some stuff fabricated on it if I need to overcome my own limitations. And purchasing tools is only a big deal if they're real expensive.
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Oct 5, 2011 22:58
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End-grain cutting board is a pretty popular starter project. You'll need some good clamps.
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Oct 6, 2011 00:07
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Step stools, benches, small bookcases, end tables, jewelry boxes, trays, cutting boards, clocks, lamps, are all pretty traditional beginner projects.
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Oct 6, 2011 03:32
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wormil posted:You can put oil under shellac but in this case gain nothing from it. I wouldn't recommend linseed oil, the commonly available variety is boiled linseed oil which has petroleum additives and metallic dryers. Food grade linseed oil is really flaxseed oil and will go rancid. Mineral oil is safe. Don't buy anything fancy though, just buy unscented, pure mineral oil from the grocery store. Varnish/poly and lacquer are also food safe once fully cured. I don't know if watercolors or acrylics are food safe or not, my gut reaction would be to use food safe dyes instead. Ack, my bad-- I did mean raw linseed oil, but realized it I should've clarified after posting. Was thinking the oiling step would be useful for moisture resistance, but you're right in that it doesn't seem necessary with the lacquer on top. Using food-safe dyes for the paint is a GREAT idea, thanks. However, just to preserve the color/design, I think some kind of sealant is still the way to go. Since I'm physically burning/etching some of the design in as well, I'm after something that's thick and resinous enough to cover the grooves this will leave, leaving a glossy, smooth, clear surface area to serve on. Polyurethene looks promising, and I'm not afraid of taking a while to let it cure. Is there any other kind of lacquer or varnish that yall like? Wish I could offer some more constructive criticism or information to the thread. I've only recently gotten into woodburning -- used to consider it terribly Boy Scout-y, but the process is very soothing and methodical, and the subtle gradations you can get from the wood are really quite beautiful. Highly recommended if you want to putz around with some decorative work on your pieces after they're done.
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Oct 6, 2011 16:53
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Cross posted from the tools thread, since I'll need to order it before the weekend: Has anyone used one of these alaskan sawmills before? http://www.amazon.com/Granberg-Chain-Mill-Model-G777/dp/B000AMFY90/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1317916128&sr=8-1 Do they work well? I'm afraid my Poulan chainsaw might not have enough power but a coworker is taking down some black walnut trees and was just planning on burning the wood! I don't own a band saw and even if I did I doubt I could convince other people to help me process the logs quickly enough so I was considering going this route. Anubis fucked around with this message at 19:38 on Oct 6, 2011 |
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Oct 6, 2011 19:07
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jvick posted:
Thanks for this, they're the bees knees.
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Oct 6, 2011 19:11
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Anubis posted:Cross posted from the tools thread, since I'll need to order it before the weekend: Amazon.com posted:Looking for something?
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Oct 6, 2011 19:12
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I fixed the link, apparently it got broke copying it over from my other post.
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Oct 6, 2011 19:39
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Hecuba posted:Ack, my bad-- I did mean raw linseed oil, but realized it I should've clarified after posting. Was thinking the oiling step would be useful for moisture resistance Linseed oil offers very little moisture resistance. Based on what I've read, tung oil is better but not better than shellac. But you're not gaining anything with the oil except to put a softer finish under a harder finish. Linseed oil is sometimes used under finishes because it will accelerate darkening/patina and emphasize the grain. Hecuba posted:I'm after something that's thick and resinous enough to cover the grooves this will leave, leaving a glossy, smooth, clear surface area to serve on. Polyurethene looks promising, and I'm not afraid of taking a while to let it cure. Is there any other kind of lacquer or varnish that yall like? There is also bar top epoxy, which is mixed in 2 parts and poured on. Would need to set a week before you could use it. Makes the wood look like plastic though. Shellac and oil based varnish warm the color of wood while poly cools (bluish), lacquer is neutral. Shellac, even though it isn't as tough as varnish or lacquer, is very easy to repair but is susceptible to water stains. Poly can be poured on as well. There probably are differences in various brands but I doubt it really matters.
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Oct 6, 2011 20:26
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iwannabebobdylan posted:Thanks for this, they're the bees knees.
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Oct 6, 2011 21:13
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