|
cursedshitbox posted:VG33s in Xterras I'm p sure had dizzies till 2004 where then they went with the VQ. Had a 2000 JDM Terrano/Pathfinder with the dizzy VG33. Identical to what became the Infiniti QX4 but never got the VQ, although the US got it in 2000 for the 2001MY.
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2022 01:45
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 24, 2024 18:03 |
|
|
cursedshitbox posted:VG33s in Xterras I'm p sure had dizzies till 2004 where then they went with the VQ. This is correct. The first gen X was a parts bin abomination. Minivan engine, z diff in the front, harbody parts, etc. And I still love it. This summer the bearing in my dizzy exploded. I was getting missfiring above 2k. Reved the everliving poo poo out of it up hills missfiring all the way to try and get it to code out. Nothing. Apparently the dizzy bearing loving off is a thing so the only reason I went digging in there to find it.
|
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2022 18:51
|
|
|
I am still in awe of how many stupid decisions they made under the hood on that thing.
|
|
#
?
Dec 4, 2022 02:23
|
|
|
kastein posted:Oh, it's got more than a healthy amount of distributor shaft end play as well. My theory is that the stalling when hot and you suddenly go to idle after running it down the road for a while thing was that the ECU would learn to compensate for the extra ignition advance from the distributor shaft riding up the gear, and then as soon as you suddenly drop from 1500+ RPM to 650 while it's hot it would continue with the same amount of advance despite the distributor shaft dropping down and giving it a few extra degrees suddenly, leading to it bogging, then trying to catch it, overshooting a little, kicking the shaft up and advance back down, running well, dropping back down and adding more timing from the shaft end play again, etc etc until it would just stall. Well it started back up with its bullshit games like this again but I don't care, it can do that till the end of time. It's been doing it for at least 6 years and we are used to it. A 300k mile LO5 that's making shiny oil isn't worth the $58 a new distributor will cost so it can deal with its own bullshit unless it fails all the way. I gave it an oil change to flush any gasket debris and coolant out of the sump. Saw no coolant but who knows. Better safe than sorry, this lump has to hold until I have a shop built and can devote actual clean workspace to Tesla swapping it. Anyways, it runs again so I set my sights on immediately loving with the running driving Honcho until it didn't. First up, it's time to get the previous owners two-post AM/FM stereo out of here in favor of a more millennial-friendly Bluetooth speaker amp. I'm very partial to the Fosi Audio ZK-1002 since they're around 20 bucks a pop on Amazon, class D amp, and easily loud enough on stock size speakers to be uncomfortable in my MJ. CSB suggested I look at Bluetooth amps using this chipset forever ago and I finally did so last fall, been putting them in everything since then. They claim 100W per channel at max supply voltage but who knows, and honestly I don't care, they're loud enough and high enough sound quality for my deaf rear end. They're also the size of a pack of playing cards.   Do I put it in the factory spot with a blanking plate? Nah. It's going in this silly little accent trim panel that had no purpose other than covering up the hole for the right hand ashtray originally.  Drill one hole for the volume knob (which it mounts by) and in it goes. I forgot to take after pics, it looks exactly how you expect it would. Eventually I'll end up putting my 2m Ham radio in the factory opening. Next up, it's finally time to pull the rear wiring harness out of the truck and add stuff to it. Due to the factory cluster being mechanical driven speedo style, I needed to use the only VSS mounting hole I had for a speedo cable drive assembly out of an 87-92 XJ. Since this is an NP241D, it has the right size hole. If it was an NP241C it would have instead a threaded hole for a variable reluctance pickup for the GM 40ppr sine wave VSS instead of a mechanical speedo drive or an 8ppr reed or hall type VSS like Chrysler preferred. This is both good and bad. Good, because it means my factory speedo works, which I insist on because I hate gaudy aftermarket gauges and butchering instrument clusters for engine swaps, but also bad, because I want to make my cruise control work which means I need a high resolution sine wave VSS signal to get the ECU to be happy. I COULD buy a 40ppr or 128k/mile VSS off jags that run, but that goes against my religion, because I don't want to be relying on spare parts from an aftermarket company that could suddenly not be able to supply replacements for any number of reasons. I'll take the janky junkyard supply chain option, thanks. Therefore, I needed to add two wires to this harness to run the RABS tone ring pickup from my '00 e350 sourced rearend to the VSS input pins on my LS ECU. The pulses per mile isn't exactly what I want - it's 120 per tire revolution instead of the 40 per driveshaft revolution I want (120/tire revolution works out to 69960 pulses per mile with 35s on, rather than 128k, but it's high enough hopefully) - but it is within the calibration range of the ECU via hptuners so I'm rolling with it. Harness, with two added wires, two added plugs (sensor at one end, VSS harness connection at the other), also now rewrapped with the new loom tubing I bought from delcity over a year ago. When I built this harness originally I ended up reusing short chunks of factory LS harness loom as I had them. So it looks better now.  I stuck it back in the Jeep and immediately took it to the lawless wastes of Canadadefinitely not WA-16 to do some, uhh, calibration testing.  It works! I sure need to adjust the calibration, since 92mph reads as 78mph via OBD2, but it works. I'll deal with that later. Oh, sendcutsend had a bad time cutting my gmt800 fuel pump mounting clamp plate and had to remake it, which pushed it out past when I left for the airport, but here's the fancy replacement:  This replaces this, which I made in 2020 out of some scrap acrylic we had lying around out of laziness: kastein posted:Made the hold-down plate too, same OD and bolt pattern, different ID: kastein fucked around with this message at 07:45 on Dec 21, 2022 |
|
#
?
Dec 21, 2022 07:40
|
|
|
Send cut send is amazing.
|
|
#
?
Dec 21, 2022 13:22
|
|
|
I fckn love those little $20 Amazon amps. I have like 3 of them. A 2 channel, 2 plus sub and 4 channel plus sub. Getting rid of the 2 post in my GMC dump truck is the reason for the 4.1 and I can't wait to not have to listen to the drat radio anymore
|
|
#
?
Dec 21, 2022 14:41
|
|
|
Yeah they're really great and I'm glad I was told about them. I tried to get the second knuckle adapter slug for the Dana 70 done tonight after dropping a load of stuff off at the hangar and the mill went into an entirely new "no gently caress you" error mode so that was fun, I guess that project isn't getting done for a while. But did manage to remember to use the mostly flat driveway there to measure my rear driveshaft ujoint angle on MJ and sure enough I gave it a little too much when I welded the perches. I asked on an MJ specific group and I now have 3 people trying to help me with unrelated questions that I already considered and discarded because they think they know more than me on driveshaft angles stuff, which while nice is unhelpful. Has anyone seen a place where you can buy 0.75 to 1 degree steel 2.5" wide leaf spring angle shims? I've got 2.2 degrees of ujoint operating angle at the pinion end of a double cardan-single cardan driveshaft, and springs so stiff they aren't letting the pinion rise enough to be in line under load. I really really do not want to reweld the perches because I burned them in very very very thoroughly and it'll be a total bastard to redo, especially as my workspace is now full of moving boxes.
|
|
#
?
Jan 2, 2023 07:32
|
|
|
sharkytm posted:Send cut send is amazing. I think you just answered my question of getting a couple very specific brass shapes cut when I've only got my garage to work with right now and an HOA that will murder me for doing metalwork in it.
|
|
#
?
Jan 3, 2023 06:42
|
|
|
Liquid Communism posted:I think you just answered my question of getting a couple very specific brass shapes cut when I've only got my garage to work with right now and an HOA that will murder me for doing metalwork in it. Between them and Big Blue Saw, yeah. Very neat system if they have what you need for stock. I think Xometry can do water jet and laser now too, but they'll be more money. Just be warned there's a minimum order value, so enjoy making some coasters or signs or whatever to hit it.
|
|
#
?
Jan 3, 2023 13:26
|
|
|
kastein posted:Has anyone seen a place where you can buy 0.75 to 1 degree steel 2.5" wide leaf spring angle shims? I've got 2.2 degrees of ujoint operating angle at the pinion end of a double cardan-single cardan driveshaft, and springs so stiff they aren't letting the pinion rise enough to be in line under load. I really really do not want to reweld the perches because I burned them in very very very thoroughly and it'll be a total bastard to redo, especially as my workspace is now full of moving boxes. Land Cruiser springs are 2.75” and I know that Valley Hybrids in Stockton has steel shims made for those. Shaving off 1/4” shouldn’t be hard. 209-475-8808
|
|
#
?
Jan 14, 2023 22:25
|
|
|
It's more the extremely low angle I need that's presenting the issue - I've found any number of suppliers with 2, 4, and 6 degree shims but none with 0.75 or 1 degree. 2.75" I could probably just bolt in and let the extra 1/8" hang over each side, honestly. I think there's at least that much air gap between the leafs and the ubolts. Also, my usual excuse is that I hate the phone and don't want to call anyone, but due to my awful cell provider I literally can't call right now, my voice and text comms are both 100% dead at the moment (have been for a week or two) and I can't even use VoIP because the towers here are overloaded and I get barely over dialup speeds during business hours.
|
|
#
?
Jan 14, 2023 23:16
|
|
|
kastein posted:It's more the extremely low angle I need that's presenting the issue - I've found any number of suppliers with 2, 4, and 6 degree shims but none with 0.75 or 1 degree. https://truckandgear.com/belltech/blc-10f7-4973.html Pinion shim seems to be the right term.
|
|
#
?
Jan 15, 2023 00:18
|
|
|
StormDrain posted:https://truckandgear.com/belltech/blc-10f7-4973.html those appear to be aluminum
|
|
#
?
Jan 15, 2023 02:13
|
|
|
Yeah those are aluminum. I've heard tons of horror stories of aluminum shims coming apart and leaving loose ubolts and sheared center pins and mangled fenders and ruined driveshafts in their wake so only really looking at steel or worst case, iron. Usually it's on lift blocks, but a shim is just a tiny lift block, as far as I'm concerned.
|
|
#
?
Jan 15, 2023 03:43
|
|
|
Mother making GBS threads gently caress I hate this truck so much right now I got death wobble FIVE loving TIMES today It has been death wobble free literally since last spring when I replaced a bunch of steering parts. It just decided to get death wobble again. gently caress you Jeep. gently caress you.
|
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2023 07:41
|
|
|
"It's a Jeep thing" Yup, that's why I don't own one. Condolences, you gonna parts-gun it again?
|
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2023 12:57
|
|
|
Everything I replaced was actually bad in one way or another. Steering stabilizer was totally junk, intermediate shaft had no bearings left in one ujoint, and steering box had like 1/8" of play in the sector shaft. I gotta get someone to shake the steering wheel while I look for floppy parts I guess. Though I might just start by rebuilding the old steering box and putting it back in, the one I swapped in was also used.
|
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2023 17:20
|
|
|
Some days I miss my Cherokee. Usually when I need to haul something, otherwise, not really.
|
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2023 20:11
|
|
|
I know you miss that 2.5 so much though.
|
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2023 21:17
|
|
|
Well, I got a friend to shake the wheel while I looked at the front end and  It's the track bar. It's always the track bar. This one has under 30k miles on it, I installed the cheapest brand (quicksteer) in 2016 thinking I would be doing major custom suspension work soon and would end up throwing it out anyways. Well I didn't. It now has a significant amount of play in it at both ends and has wallowed the taper hole in the bracket out. I guess this manufacturer doesn't realize that 90-down use a different taper from 91-up and I didn't know either. So I basically can't drive it more than around the block until the new one arrives because if it breaks you lose all steering. I just pulled the semi usable one off the white MJ, along with its 91+ bracket, so I ordered a decent brand one for 91+ off Amazon and will be installing all of that ASAP. Oh, finally swapped to the oil filter mounting stud from a later 4.0L so that I can use standard S16 filters that every store has 20 of on the shelf from 3 brands instead of a weird rear end RENIX only filter that I have to order, and changed the oil today. It needed it bad. Also, the white MJ is quite literally no more at this point. It's to the point where each piece can theoretically be lifted by a single human being. Last fall INTERNETRACECAR and my friend Mike came by to pull parts off of it for their J10 and MJ, respectively. INTERNETRACECAR got quite literally all the electrical from the engine bay and the whole top end of the motor for an EFI swap on his '85 J10 I peer pressured him into buying, I know Mike ended up with my wheels and tires and I'm sure there are other things but I can't remember them at the moment. Also the rear axle and badges went to Sandbagger, the rear leaf springs went to a local guy, and one door went to another local guy because he wanted the window regulator and vent window and I told him the price was the same with or without the door shell too. I'm keeping the cab back window to hang on the shop wall and the front diff cover, locker, and chromo shafts went in the blue MJ. Anyways. Here are some of the reasons I scrapped it.   Lot of mud built up on top of and in these frame rails for some reason.      gently caress I'm so tired of broken AX15 bellhousings.     The end of the road. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zexvo24N0MY
|
|
#
?
Feb 12, 2023 06:42
|
|
|
Man, you had that truck forever. RIP to a real one.
|
|
#
?
Feb 12, 2023 06:47
|
|
|
Almost exactly 13 years  I demolished and rebuilt half my house with that truck and did a hundred thousand miles in it. Not once did it let me down bad enough to need a tow unless it was my fault. Hell, it still ran and drove the day I moved it to the spot it got cut up, and it started easily - first or second crank - the day INTERNETRACECAR and I began stripping the EFI system off. It was the only vehicle I still had that I owned when I rejoined these forums, and the only vehicle I still had that I owned when I moved to this house.
|
|
#
?
Feb 13, 2023 05:34
|
|
|
OMG the mud buildup in the frame.....Is there any way to mitigate that? Like drain holes in the bottom or would that weaken the frame too much? I'm thinking like every so often stick a pressure washer wand in there and blast it out or something
|
|
#
?
Feb 13, 2023 14:15
|
|
|
It added the drain holes in the bottom all by itself. Honestly, if I'd ever washed it, it wouldn't have built up like that. But it was already terminally rotted and had no straight body panels when I got it, so there was little point in doing so. It might have lasted a few more years but it still would have died. Even when my friend bought it before me it needed 3 feet of metal replaced in the bottom of each frame rail under the cab.
|
|
#
?
Feb 13, 2023 18:26
|
|
|
kastein posted:It added the drain holes in the bottom all by itself.  Do off road guys ever clean out the frame rails tho? Seems like it would be a good idea if you're in mud a lot. Or even up north in all the salt.
|
|
#
?
Feb 13, 2023 18:42
|
|
|
The amount of mud trapped in the boxed section is impressive. Nothing lives forever. but its parts will go on to make other jeeps live. Fucker had a good run with its terminal rot.
|
|
#
?
Feb 13, 2023 18:49
|
|
|
STR posted:I know you miss that 2.5 so much though. Eh, it did the job. Unimpressively, but it worked fine until *someone* not me- the friend that bought it didn't replace the tamp sensor and *also* didn't notice when the lower radiator hose blew (edit: ON THE HIGHWAY). It still runs, but it is very unhappy about it, and probably only 3/4 of it is actually running. The 2.5 is still pretty tough, at least - it apparently took a while for it to melt a piston top, and the whole "will still run" thing. I'd probably have kept it if it was a 4.0, though, yeah. The 2.5 was dumb. It got like 1-2 more MPG, while losing 85 HP over the 4.0. That's a terrible tradeoff. I think I'd rather have a 4-door though. 2-door interior parts are a pain to find, not to mention rear seat access.
|
|
#
?
Feb 13, 2023 19:26
|
|
|
The 4 doors don't stress crack quite as badly either. Everyone loves 2 doors but I have never really liked them. As for cleaning the rails out, I guess maybe? It's a fully boxed frame which makes it quite annoying to do so. I used to run my garden hose through my bumpers occasionally to clear them out, but never considered the frame, I didn't realize how much it was collecting in there till I cut it in half.
|
|
#
?
Feb 13, 2023 22:15
|
|
|
Oh, no doubt. The hinges had already been (inexpertly) welded back on in mine, thanks to AMC using the same hinges and a-pillar structure for the heavier 2-door doors.
|
|
#
?
Feb 14, 2023 20:25
|
|
|
It's a noble death for a trusty steed. Rip white MJ
|
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2023 02:38
|
|
|
One of our customers has a blue MJ daily and I think of you every time I see it. He also has a turbodiesel Isuzu P'up too, neat guy.
|
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2023 17:54
|
|
|
Anyone with not one but two weird old pickups in their fleet is cool by me. I have no pictures of the new one installed but here's why the blue MJ had death wobble: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v3KpcQSlizY The bushing at the axle end was shot. The spherical joint at the frame end was also shot. AND the taper was the wrong, smaller size (and I didn't notice installing it in 2016 because I was in the dark under a truck trying to hold it up and get the nut on at the same time.) New one and new track bar bracket off the white MJ are both installed and it's no longer on team deathwobble. It'll get a mean shimmy going around 65-67 still but I had issues balancing one new front tire recently and there was a definite wobble to the wheel so I suspect the fix is either a new wheel or moving the wobbly one to the back and the straight one to the front. Whatever, it doesn't try and kill me anymore, I don't care. However I still don't particularly trust the steering box on this truck because I honestly do not remember what vehicle I pulled it out of, or anything about its condition in general. I thought it was from my 98, but I found what I think is the pump and box from the 98 recently. It's not from the white MJ because it was driving still well after I put this box in, and I think I gave that one to INTERNETRACECAR anyways. It's not from my 96. It's not from my 94 or 99 parts Jeeps as far as I know. It's a mystery. So given that I'm going to be running cross country in this pile soon, with no backup vehicle of any kind, it is time to rebuild the box I took out of the blue MJ as a spare. Worst case I can swap it in in a parking lot somewhere and carry on. First run it through the 87 octane parts washer and then disassemble it and check all the parts:  (I then rebuilt the steering box in a "semi conscious time traveling state" and as such do not have any pictures or other evidence. No effort was put into cleaning or painting the outside beyond making it not greasy and knocking off enough crusties that it would stop dropping chassis grime into its own internals. Not that which goeth onto the outside defileth a steering box; but that which goeth into the recirculating ball worm gear assembly, this defileth a steering box.) Blammo.    I am not particularly confident in this rebuild and the entire project left me with a bit of a sour opinion of these steering boxes, their engineering, parts availability, and information availability, so this is a dire circumstances spare only and assuming I make it cross country without using it, I will probably tear it down again, do a lot more reading, find the rest of the parts my rebuild kit didn't include, machine a custom bronze sector shaft support bushing (rough specs: 1.25 ID, 1.625 OD, 1.25 length with locating shoulder 0.125 thick, oil grooves on inside, exact diameters unknown until I put a real mic on the parts) no one seems to sell, and put it back together again. 0/5 stars. Do not recommend loving with Saginaw 800 series steering boxes.
|
|
#
?
Mar 2, 2023 02:36
|
|
|
Just curious, but are there electric power steering kits out there you could use?
|
|
#
?
Mar 2, 2023 02:48
|
|
|
Probably, but I don't want to customize any of that crap until I figure out what drivetrain is going in this pile eventually, and that's not happening till I'm several timezones away from here, sadly. The Rockies are going to really really hurt with a tired rear end RENIX 4.0 and a combined weight likely to be pushing 6000lbs. Oh well. My guess would be the Prius unit everyone likes, but if I go LS, it'll make more sense to just do a proper high quality rebuild on the steering box, while if I go EV it would make much more sense to go Prius EPS or possibly MR2 electric power steering pump.
|
|
#
?
Mar 2, 2023 02:58
|
|
|
Well I went junkyarding with a friend from Pennsylvania today and we got some decent finds. He just bought his first XJ, a red 96 4 door auto 4.0, so I've been showing him the ropes and foisting spare parts off on him that I don't need or feel like moving. Hard to believe but after nearly *8 years* of basically not letting anyone leave my house or workshop without extra free Jeep parts, I still have stuff left over. Also I installed a new driver side motor mount. Where by new I mean a used junkyard one with a Mopar logo on it, because I'll legitimately take a used Mopar one that looks pretty close to fine after 22 years over a junky aftermarket one that smells like a harbor freight store the minute you pick the box up and the center bushing sleeve is literally 3/16" too short to get the bolt to clamp on it at all without breaking the mount on the block. I'd go with fancy aftermarket mounts but this 4.0 doesn't deserve them and will eventually be replaced by an EV or LQ9 swap so it gets free junkyard used motor mounts. This and removing the flapping around intake preheater heat shield on my exhaust header did not fix the odd rattling noise at mid throttle under load, like I hoped it would, but it needed to happen anyways. Attempted to do the dual diaphragm brake booster upgrade I've been meaning to do and both flare nuts twisted off on the lines from the MC to the prop valve, and the other end are DIN/ISO bubble flares, and my $90 flaring kit that I bought SPECIFICALLY TO DO BUBBLE FLARES sucks rear end, so that was a bust and I'll buy new bubble flare premade lines at the parts store tomorrow and then bend them to shape and do the double flares on the other end myself. Those, I can easily do.
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2023 06:52
|
|
|
As of my last post I had just noticed that the blue truck was starting to smell rather strongly of gas. Weird. We popped the hood after going junkyarding and noted that... Several injectors were soaking wet. That's not supposed to happen. But it's a well known thing with the 80s Bosch injectors in these turds. So I started researching and apparently all the RENIX dorks fap about how awesome the 4 hole "746" injectors from certain 93-98 volvos are for RENIX 4.0s. You know, the usual, not only do they improve idle quality, power, mpg, emissions, and top end, they give you spectacular orgasms and reduce the price of your beer. What the gently caress ever. I don't care. I just want more common* junkyard donors for my poo poo box than 87-90 4.0L XJ and MJ ONLY, which is what factory injectors fit, that aren't pissing out fuel 4 inches from an exhaust header. I went back to the yard a few days later and got every single one they had. Which was five. Because Volvo. I have a six cylinder. Because Jeep. One of these things is not like the others... * So I spent a few days calling random local junkyards on and off looking for donors. Got my feelings hurt by them laughing and telling me that a 93-98 car is way too old to be in most junkyards, last time I checked those were everywhere and it was 00s cars that were hard to find in yards because of how new they were. No one had poo poo. Oh well. Rockauto wants 40 each. That's not happening, this entire engine isn't worth $40. eBay and Amazon and random little speed parts websites are absolutely chock full of "totally legit bro I swear they're real bro just trust me bro I definitely didn't buy these off Alibaba bro" counterfeits for extremely suspiciously good prices. Miss me with that poo poo, a $40 engine that's been hydrolocked on fuel or run lean on one hole until it burns a valve is worth even less. So I bugged a bunch of people. No one's got poo poo, at least nearby, because this was supposed to be a right-now project so I didn't want to lean on the AI Volvo crew to ship me poo poo. And then realized that there's been a broken Volvo rotting into the ground behind the hangar for so long it's on Google Earth satellite view. Not only that it has the right injectors. I thought it was several years newer than it actually was. So I have permission from the owner to borrow several of them (pending flow testing) in exchange for sourcing a few replacements out west where these are still everywhere in the yards and send them back with a set of o rings. Also I bought the correct DIN ISO bubble flare cunifer brake line (30" long, for the record, is plenty) to install my dual diaphragm booster upgrade yesterday. Here are my notes on doing that: -87-90 pedal boxes ARE different from 91-94, which may be different from 95-96. The difference is that 87-90 has a different bracket for the auto transmission brake switch and cruise brake switch and has the brake lamp switch mounted on the booster pushrod itself. Also the pedal arm is different as the 91+ uses a peg with a special clip on it to connect the booster pushrod rather than the bolt and bushing used on 90-. - you will need to either move the washer fluid tank forward an inch or two, use a heat gun to carefully soften and reshape the tank to clear the new booster, or swap to a 95-96 washer tank and extend the lines (assuming you have open cooling system swapped your truck - the 95-96 washer tank occupies the same space as the RENIX coolant reservoir.) - you will need a 30" premade DIN ISO bubble flare brake line section from the parts store. 3/16" line diameter. Get the one with the M10 flare nuts, though you'll be saving one flare nut from the XJ donor as it's M12. You'll also be saving the two flare nuts from the inlets of your proportioning valve as they are larger than the standard 3/8-24 used on 3/16 inverted flare lines. I prefer to use cunifer line for this because it never rusts, ever. An OEM tools 24364 inline flaring tool is perfect for doing the double flares at the proportioning valve end of each of the halves of this line (you cut it in half and use both halves so you can avoid making DIN ISO bubble flares on your own, which is difficult without pro level tools.) - you'll also need the following from a 95-96 XJ donor: booster, master cylinder with the flare nuts that screw into it, booster mounting nuts, the special 95-96 booster mounting spacer (normally stays stuck to the booster when you pull it), booster pushrod retention clip, pedal box, brake lamp switch, brake lamp switch harness pigtail with a few inches of wire, 4x red raychem duraseal butt splices. - The 91-96 brake lamp switch contains 3 sets of contacts, so it does double duty for your brake lamps and TCU brake signal. Dash harness - brake lamp switch pigtail color (Brake lamp switch - wide flat connector on switch at pushrod bolt) Pink ------- pink / black stripe Light blue / black stripe ------- white / tan stripe (TCU brake signal input switch on pedal bracket - automatic only) Black ------- yellow / red stripe Light blue / yellow stripe ------- blue / red stripe You will have two extra wires on the switch leftover. These can be left disconnected. They may be needed on vehicles with cruise control - I'm not sure, mine doesn't have it. All color codes match a 96 pedal box and booster donor and a 88 MJ. Yours may vary, usually slightly, so use process of elimination and you'll probably be fine. Can you do this easier? Maybe. I know some people cut the pushrod eye off the old booster and weld it onto the pushrod for the new booster. I know others use WJ boosters and bend the pinch weld and space the booster out with washers. I don't really like any of those options. I did the WJ booster swap on my old MJ and sure, it worked, but muddy water came in in between the booster and the firewall every time I went through a stream crossing because of the washer spacing. And I'm not a fan of the cut and weld option because, well, what happens if you're on a road trip and need a booster? You gonna borrow a welder and do that in the parts store parking lot? With the route I took, I can simply bolt parts store or junkyard parts in in an emergency because the only modifications I did are two small brake lines and 4 harness splices, the rest is stuff I can buy anywhere. This swap is absolutely worth it. I didn't realize how much I missed having a modern brake booster as I've gotten used to the crummy single diaphragm one in this truck over the last few years. But the difference is night and day - the 95-96 XJ booster is just as good as the WJ booster IMO, it just fits better install wise. Dirty rear end junkyard 96 booster and master shoved in a dirty rear end MJ:  Cunifer lines cut, correct flare nuts put on facing the right way, in the right places, THEN bent and flared the other end:   Washer fluid tank softened and caved in:  I'm having to relearn how to drive this thing because the new booster is so much better. I have so much better control in between "slow down a little" and "lock em TF up" without putting my foot through the floor, but I'm not used to it yet, I have been living with the crappy single diaphragm booster since 2016. Oh, and I finally mounted my mini Bluetooth stereo amp I installed on CSB's recommendation a year or two ago. It's been flapping around loose in the opening where the factory transmission power/comfort shift mode switch panel goes. I found my sheets of kydex stock while packing and figured what the hell, why not. First ripped the factory legend label off. Tested some acetone on the bracket and it softened it. Looked up kydex chemical composition and it's a PVC ABS copolymer or something, so PVC cement should work on that. If acetone works on the Jeep bracket PVC cement will likely too, and I've got spares, so I ran the bracket through the belt sander to clean it up, cut myself some 1/16" kydex, primed both, slobbered cement on and what do you know, it worked great. Drilled some holes and here's the fanciest interior work I've yet done on this filthy truck:  I also installed Amazon's finest USB fast charging port instead of the cig lighter as I realized I have used the cig lighter for things other than that exactly 0 times in 7 years. It's been very nice to not have to fiddle with the USB charging adapter to get it to contact the 35 year old cig lighter socket just right every half hour of driving. That's that until I get a chance to head up to the hangar again to pull the injectors, clean them all, and rig myself a flow testing setup. kastein fucked around with this message at 07:18 on Mar 20, 2023 |
|
#
?
Mar 20, 2023 07:16
|
|
|
kastein posted:As of my last post I had just noticed that the blue truck was starting to smell rather strongly of gas. Weird. I put the yellow 746 volvo injectors in my 88 renix some years ago before I sold it. They did improve the idle quality, and I didn't have to worry about the OEM split design suddenly leaking fuel all over the manifolds on a hot day in the Mohave desert, but that was it. I obsessively tracked mileage on the old rig between mods and they didn't make a difference. I rattlecanned them black so they wouldn't catch the eye of my admittedly cool CA SMOG tech guy, and as far as I know they're still out there not leaking fuel and doing their job while it struggles to pass NOX. The only approved butt-dyno greybeard mod I can vouch for is strokedjeep's bored throttle body. That was a fun week of driving before I grew accustomed to it.
|
|
#
?
Mar 22, 2023 06:24
|
|
|
Those are pretty much only the improvements I actually personally expect to get from this! I don't really care about the idle quality but I guess it'll be nice. Does the throttle body change actually improve top end, or just give quicker tip-in due to the same throttle plate angle change down low giving more effective throttle opening area? I've always wondered.
|
|
#
?
Mar 22, 2023 14:16
|
|
|
kastein posted:Does the throttle body change actually improve top end, or just give quicker tip-in due to the same throttle plate angle change down low giving more effective throttle opening area? I've always wondered. I'd say the latter; mostly the low end/getting off the line. I installed mine about 6months after I did my lift/tires, and for a week or so it felt like I was back on the stock tiresize taking off from lights, etc.
|
|
#
?
Mar 22, 2023 20:56
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 24, 2024 18:03 |
|
|
Makes sense. Also gently caress my life. It's not the injectors. It's not the o rings. It's the loving fuel injector rail that only fits 87-90 4.0L XJ and MJ and there are zero within 250 miles in junkyards. God loving drat it.
|
|
#
?
Mar 23, 2023 01:05
|
|