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DildenAnders posted:1999 Honda Civic. Car has sat for about 6 months, 6 year old battery in it was toast (wouldn't hold a charge after jumping it) so put a new battery in. Right now it reads 12.6V when sitting and 14.1V when the car is running. However, when I turn the headlights on, the interior lights start to dim, and when I turn stuff like the A/C and radio on, the engine starts to shutter a bit. Aren't those symptoms of something in the battery circuit not being right? I have no real experience diagnosing battery issues but I do have a multimeter if it makes sense to check other things. How much do the interior lights dim when you turn on the headlights? Is it noticeable when you're driving the car around, or just when it's idling? A small amount of dimming at idle is normal, as the alternator's current output increases with engine speed. Does the engine shudder when you turn on the radio, or only when you turn on the AC? Because the air conditioner is clutched directly to the engine and will draw noticeable amounts of power, usually lowering the idle a bit when it's on. In a small car like a Civic you will probably also notice decreased engine performance (e.g. passing power) with the AC on; that's normal. The radio, however, should be drawing almost no power and shouldn't change anything when you turn it on. Does it ever stall from turning on the AC, or just sound a little cranky? The symptoms could point to an alternator issue, but 14.1v when running is normal, so I wonder if everything is fine and you're just overthinking it a bit. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 20:55 on Jul 24, 2021 |
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Jul 24, 2021 20:52
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You're probably right, just went to double-check it and it turns out it was just the A/C that made it shutter, and the interior lights barely changed when I popped on the headlights. What threw me off was that the gear indicator (showing "P" "N" "D4" "D3" etc.) on the dash got dim as I turned the lights on. Thanks for the help
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Jul 24, 2021 23:27
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DildenAnders posted:What threw me off was that the gear indicator (showing "P" "N" "D4" "D3" etc.) on the dash got dim as I turned the lights on. Thanks for the help This is actually an intentional feature. The panel lights need to bright to be visible in the day, but you don't want them to blind you when driving at night, so they are automatically dimmed whenever the headlights are turned on. When you said the interior lights dimmed, I thought you meant the overhead dome light -- that one may also dim slightly when the headlights are on due to current draw, but it's subtle. The dimming of the panel is definitely noticeable and definitely on purpose. Happy to help 
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Jul 24, 2021 23:40
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Hopefully this is truly a bad battery and not something more serious. 2007 Honda Accord SE ~195,000. It started up fine, no delay or anything when I took my kids to the park, roughly 2 miles from my house. When we went to get back in it was completely dead. Dash lights didn't come on. No sound when I put the key in with the door open. When I turned the key it didn't turn over, and nothing happened. I was just able to try and jump start it. While it took a couple minnutes, the dash lights came on, but it still made no sound when I tried to start it, as in it wouldn't turn over.
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Jul 25, 2021 00:34
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Mr. Toodles posted:Hopefully this is truly a bad battery and not something more serious. Could be a battery, could be a battery and alternator, could be a wiring issue, could be a fuse. Do you have a multimeter? This starts with checking battery voltage.
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Jul 25, 2021 00:38
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I don't. I'm not handy at all. Can I rent one from someplace?
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Jul 25, 2021 00:47
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Mr. Toodles posted:I don't. I'm not handy at all. Can I rent one from someplace? You can buy one for less than $20.
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Jul 25, 2021 00:55
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Deteriorata posted:You can buy one for less than $20. If you promise to never ever ever touch it to any wiring that might be above 14V, the cheapest nastiest meter at HF is fine as well. Used to be able to get them free with purchase, now they're a whopping $7.
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Jul 25, 2021 01:23
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Mr. Toodles posted:I don't. I'm not handy at all. Can I rent one from someplace? As already noted, you can get one cheap but if you're "not handy at all" it doesn't matter: whatever this thing needs is what it needs and you should send it to someone to be repaired.
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Jul 25, 2021 01:25
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Wondering if I should buy a car that's mechanically perfect and a good deal but has poo poo paint. Even with the condition it's in I'd probably reduce the value a lot if I repainted it with rustoleum.
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Jul 25, 2021 01:48
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"mechanically perfect" doesn't exist. Get a prepurchase inspection.
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Jul 25, 2021 01:51
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cursedshitbox posted:"mechanically perfect" doesn't exist. Okay, say I did, would it still be a bad idea because of the paint? That's really the issue for me here
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Jul 25, 2021 01:52
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NotNut posted:Wondering if I should buy a car that's mechanically perfect and a good deal but has poo poo paint. Even with the condition it's in I'd probably reduce the value a lot if I repainted it with rustoleum. This is seriously low information post. What kind of car? What do you need it for? What parts matter to you?
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Jul 25, 2021 01:54
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NotNut posted:Okay, say I did, would it still be a bad idea because of the paint? That's really the issue for me here As long as it's not bare metal, it's just appearance. How much does that matter to you? If it does matter, how much would it cost for a decent paint job and does that impact the price you're willing to pay for it?
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Jul 25, 2021 01:55
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NotNut posted:Okay, say I did, would it still be a bad idea because of the paint? That's really the issue for me here Buy it, post a thread where you tremclad it. Iirc about 15ish years ago there was a car thing that went viral because someone did an actual good job of tremcladding an old Dodge charger. I think they cut the poo poo out of the paint with solvents and either rollered or brushed it on. Try googling '75 dollar paint job' it might come up.
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Jul 25, 2021 01:57
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If the owner cared so much to let the paint go to poo poo I'm sure it's mechanically magnificent. /Sarcasm. Paint doesn't matter a lot but it'll speak volumes about owner care without any other details. Of which when buying a car there's about a million and three quarter. No rust is important. Or at least the least rust possible. Since you're asking these questions....get a PPI.
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Jul 25, 2021 01:59
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Hello! My friend is making a Dungeons and Dragons character for a very stupid off-brand Lego adventure. He wants to make a wizard, with a crystal skull for a head, who rides a motorcycle, and the motorcycle is a big aspect of his character. Could anyone here please suggest fun motorcycle-themed phrases and idioms he could use for the game? Thank you! I plan to check back a few times this week. He is very excited.
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Jul 25, 2021 03:15
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don longjohns posted:Hello! My friend is making a Dungeons and Dragons character for a very stupid off-brand Lego adventure. He wants to make a wizard, with a crystal skull for a head, who rides a motorcycle, and the motorcycle is a big aspect of his character. Could anyone here please suggest fun motorcycle-themed phrases and idioms he could use for the game? sounds like you guys should watch/read some Ghost Rider
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Jul 25, 2021 04:21
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Also with the 99 Civic, it seems like the valve cover gasket is seeping and I want to replace it. Anything else I should do while I do that (aside from plugs)?
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Jul 25, 2021 04:27
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DildenAnders posted:Also with the 99 Civic, it seems like the valve cover gasket is seeping and I want to replace it. Anything else I should do while I do that (aside from plugs)? shocks? rims? fart can? tow ring?
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Jul 25, 2021 04:29
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DildenAnders posted:Also with the 99 Civic, it seems like the valve cover gasket is seeping and I want to replace it. Anything else I should do while I do that (aside from plugs)? you gotta get NOS bro. stick a hundred shot in there. reinforce your manifold while you're at it
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Jul 25, 2021 06:59
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NotNut posted:Wondering if I should buy a car that's mechanically perfect and a good deal but has poo poo paint. Even with the condition it's in I'd probably reduce the value a lot if I repainted it with rustoleum. Of the 39-odd vehicles I have bought over the past 45-years, the vast majority fit this description. You can get a great deal on truly ugly cars that serve reliably. It is incumbent upon you, the buyer, to determine whether or not it is in fact mechanically sound, and that the things that are wrong are within your abilities to set right. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 14:57 on Jul 25, 2021 |
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Jul 25, 2021 14:54
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cursedshitbox posted:If the owner cared so much to let the paint go to poo poo I'm sure it's mechanically magnificent. /Sarcasm. Eh, my cars end up looking rough but I keep them running well. Like you said we need more details though.
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Jul 25, 2021 16:34
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cursedshitbox posted:Look underneath the rearend for a load sensing proportioning valve. it could be misadjusted or broken. It'll have a hydraulic valve somewhere with a lever arm and a connecting rod that goes to the rearend. Is this it?   It looks like there is a hex hole that I can adjust, but I can't see a spring or anything. I think just before I bought it they put different tires and wheels on it, a different size that maybe is throwing it out of whack?
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Jul 25, 2021 18:04
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With 'hosed paint' there needs to be caveats/allowances for certain things. For example, models where the paint flaking off in sheets is a known issue. Nothing you can do to prevent it, and by the time it happens it's usually late enough in the vehicle's life that a respray is way out of the question. Or the silver paint Mazda used. I can't remember the last time I saw a silver NB Miata where the paint wasn't completely sun-hosed.
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Jul 25, 2021 18:09
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otter posted:You car-understanding goons are so helpful. Who is up for a challenge? So update on this: After having it for another 2 days the result is they replaced the rotor again, and they replaced the caliper again and the knock is gone. (allegedly) If it comes back, do you think I should take it to a different mechanic and send them a bill for it? What Would Judge Judy Do?
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Jul 25, 2021 20:02
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otter posted:So update on this: After having it for another 2 days the result is they replaced the rotor again, and they replaced the caliper again and the knock is gone. (allegedly) If it comes back, do you think I should take it to a different mechanic and send them a bill for it? What Would Judge Judy Do? This is their Customer Service contact info: https://www.firestonecompleteautocare.com/contact/ I'd say it'd be worth a try to talk to them about the situation. Otherwise, yeah, I'd bring it somewhere else and either take your losses or open a small claims court case.
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Jul 25, 2021 20:10
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As I mentioned, I have to park my car under a tree. One of the little wells the wiper mechanism is housed in at the base of the wiper got a bunch of these stupid little leaves in it and my fingers are too big to clean all of it out (I did what I could). How bad is that? Are the leaves going to like, get into the vehicle and catch on fire or something? Im a car novice. I lived in Manhattan for the last thirteen years. I really know nothing.
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Jul 26, 2021 00:18
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They won't catch on fire but they will hold moisture and turn into compost and could accelerate corrosion of any metal they are touching. A high powered vaccuum should be able to suck it out.
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Jul 26, 2021 00:31
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2000 Jeep Cherokee, 4.0L, A/T (possibly relevant: Optima Red Top battery) and 2000 Ford Mustang GT, (4.6/5.4L), M/T I'm having trouble getting the readiness monitors set for smog certification (in California) after basically driving both very little during the pandemic. Particularly, the Oxygen Sensor and Catalyst readiness monitors are not set, and lo and behold: quote:If the oxygen sensor heater monitor is not ready, check to see how many other monitors are not ready. If the oxygen sensor and catalyst monitors are also not ready, the culprit is most likely a weak battery. If your battery is more than four years old, replace it and re-run the Drive Cycle. Even though your car may start just fine, the PCM is hypersensitive to the slightest glitch in the battery. It will suspend the Drive Cycle if it is not happy with any aspect of battery performance and/or charging system performance. I guess: It sure sounds like this is my problem, but does that sound right on cars this old? I've never had this much trouble getting those monitors set. Possible curveball - could the fact that both have solar chargers regularly maintaining the batteries be affecting this too? I can believe that they're not 100%, because both have died during the last year, more than once, and the Optima died a lot before I made the solar charger. Is there anything else I should be looking at? Edit: For the Jeep, if I do replace it, should I get the yellow-top / deep cycle? Is there any reason that shouldn't be used for a starting battery?
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Jul 26, 2021 03:16
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Krakkles posted:2000 Jeep Cherokee, 4.0L, A/T (possibly relevant: Optima Red Top battery) and 2000 Ford Mustang GT, (4.6/5.4L), M/T How much have you driven them? In what conditions? There is a "drive cycle" that needs to be completed to get these I/Ms set. It varies by each thing, but gernerally requires things like 50+ MPH for a few minutes at consistent throttle which is usually what gets people. So your key word is :drive cycle" and you need ab OBD2 reader to see which I/Ms are set. Example of this search for your jeep: https://antiochstarsmogcheck.com/chrysler-drive-cycle-odb2-readiness-monitors/
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Jul 26, 2021 03:24
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2007 Honda Civic SI sedan, 148k miles. The previous owner used it for a few autocross events before covid and put a front sway bar, exhaust and springs in it, as well as wheels and tires. I had an alignment done to keep the tire wear down, and I've had a lot of fun in it for almost a year. I've recently noticed vertical vibrations at higher speeds (80+) that don't seem to have any relation to the road surface, gear, rpm, or steering inputs (though I'm only ever going straight). We feel it through the body of the car as well as the steering column. I suspect it's a front suspension issue, obviously, but that's as precise a guess as my experience allows. Maybe a wheel issue that only causes some weird resonance at that speed? Should I send it faster to see if it goes away? 😀 Not that I need to speed, but it's a symptom that I need to sort out. I have a mechanic neighbor whose work I trust, and I just wanted to see if y'all had any ideas. Also, with the window open there's a bit of a whine that increases with rpm, at least when it's hot, that I suspect is either normal intake nose and I'm paranoid, or the accessory belt which I have a kit for, but have been too lazy to get around to. I doubt they are related but I don't have much experience in diagnosis. Thanks!
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Jul 26, 2021 03:37
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Motronic posted:How much have you driven them? In what conditions? There is a "drive cycle" that needs to be completed to get these I/Ms set. It varies by each thing, but gernerally requires things like 50+ MPH for a few minutes at consistent throttle which is usually what gets people. The mustang, I've done several "let's drive around for a couple hours" days, including one that involved ~30-40 miles on the freeway. I would say that I have accurately followed this guide multiple times for both cars, though I recognize it's not specific to either (or any) model. I do have an OBD-II reader, and ... Ok, so seriously, I checked the Jeep yesterday after driving, and it said those two (O2 sensor and catalyst) were not ready. Today? It says it's ready for emissions testing. gently caress it, problem solved, I'm taking it tomorrow. The mustang, last time I checked, had several (at least the two mentioned before, though I wouldn't swear only those), but this time, I only see Evap system not set. That makes sense, I replaced the fuel filler neck recently, so maybe it just still hasn't been driven enough. Edit: Yep, apparently EVAP is hard to set on Fords, according to a variety of the cesspool forums about mustangs out there. It appears that you need to: "Cruise at 72 to 104 Km/h (45 to 65 MPH) for 10 minutes (avoid sharp turns and hills)" and then roll to a stop without braking. That sounds fun to attempt in Los Angeles. Krakkles fucked around with this message at 03:52 on Jul 26, 2021 |
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Jul 26, 2021 03:43
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Krakkles posted:I only see Evap system not set. That makes sense, I replaced the fuel filler neck recently, so maybe it just still hasn't been driven enough. You probably don't' need all of the set and evap is usually the last to set. On most thing you need to be between just over half a tank of fuel but below like 3/4 tank. So it might oe even be in a state where that test can be ran. And that's fine......if all other than that is set keep it there and get your sticker. JohnnySavs posted:blah blah blah You likely have a balance issue or you also bent a rim. Go get your tires balanced. They will tell you if you bent the poo poo out of a wheel.
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Jul 26, 2021 03:55
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nitsuga posted:This is their Customer Service contact info: https://www.firestonecompleteautocare.com/contact/ The knocking is gone... for now. The manager guy thinks the issue was rotors being out of spec from the manufacturer. (Duralast Gold, which I guess are supposed to be pretty good). After replacing the rotor again all is healed.I was kinda looking forward to meeting Judge Judy though.
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Jul 26, 2021 04:35
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Something I've always wondered: why did gas mileage get worse for a lot of models in the 2010s than it was in the 2000s?
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Jul 26, 2021 04:57
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Motronic posted:You probably don't' need all of the set and evap is usually the last to set. On most thing you need to be between just over half a tank of fuel but below like 3/4 tank. So it might oe even be in a state where that test can be ran. And that's fine......if all other than that is set keep it there and get your sticker. EVAP is the only one you can get away with in California in 2000 or newer. Everything else needs to be complete. Unless they've changed the rules, which is always possible. NotNut posted:Something I've always wondered: why did gas mileage get worse for a lot of models in the 2010s than it was in the 2000s? It didn't necessarily, they applied a correction factor to make mileage numbers more realistic to real-world conditions. I believe it was 2008ish. They also retroactively applied the correction on fueleconomy.gov I believe. There was also a lot of political fighting on CAFE standards and I don't remember how it's all gone down. Everything is giant trucks now so obviously not that strict. edit: changes in 2008 and 2017 https://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/ratings.shtml edit 2: here's my old car. The changes were pretty dramatic, and in my experience, more realistic. https://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/comparempg.shtml#id=21822 Kia Soul Enthusias fucked around with this message at 05:22 on Jul 26, 2021 |
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Jul 26, 2021 05:08
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Motronic posted:You probably don't' need all of the set and evap is usually the last to set. On most thing you need to be between just over half a tank of fuel but below like 3/4 tank. So it might oe even be in a state where that test can be ran. And that's fine......if all other than that is set keep it there and get your sticker. Charles posted:EVAP is the only one you can get away with in California in 2000 or newer. Everything else needs to be complete. Unless they've changed the rules, which is always possible.
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Jul 26, 2021 06:02
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Krakkles posted:Good enough for me - thanks, folks! Just double check, I've been out of CA for a long time now! It's what I found on Google but I couldn't find it from a .gov source.
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Jul 26, 2021 06:05
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Charles posted:Just double check, I've been out of CA for a long time now! It's what I found on Google but I couldn't find it from a .gov source.
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Jul 26, 2021 06:12
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