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Warranty is not the same as maintenance
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May 8, 2017 15:26
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If it's a deal breaker and the guy lied to you, you could probably try to get the sale reversed.
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May 8, 2017 15:27
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BraveUlysses posted:Warranty is not the same as maintenance Yeah, this is my reading too. You're likely missing an oil change, and that's about it.
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May 8, 2017 15:39
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willroc7 posted:This just popped up near me and I've been looking for an extra vehicle for a family hauler and road trip car. Just how completely will this destroy my wallet in maintenance? Any major things I can ask the seller for records of? So i went and saw this and it was pretty clean. I'm thinking about making an offer but I was hoping to get a little feedback from the thread first. Is this reliable enough o be a family road trip car? The radiator is original, is that cause for concern?
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May 8, 2017 16:37
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Probably needs a radiator and full cooling system replacement but they are generally regarded as the best 7 series ever made and they really are gorgeous looking cars. The m60 has plenty of well known maintenance issues like the valley gaskets but they make good power. Does he have records of all maintenance? Have you read through the records? The price is good imo if it's got good paint, good records and runs well.
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May 8, 2017 17:21
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7 Series cars are notorious for having little poo poo go wrong, mainly electronics. Repair bills can add up so it's good if you can fix it yourself or just deal with stuff not working. Also engine stuff that is all well-documented online. Maintenance records would be a huge plus, and if there aren't any I'd do the water pump/etc like BraveUlysses said. Here's a really cool site I found once when I was looking at these cars: http://www.meeknet.co.uk/e38/
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May 8, 2017 17:26
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I've always heard with the 7s that if you stick to drivetrains shared with the 5s then the suspension becomes really the only major mechanical concern. Most everything else that differs in any meaningful way is luxury equipment where a failure may be slightly to moderately annoying but won't require immediate expensive repair. If you can DIY those or tolerate them just not working then you should be OK. Not sure how exactly true that is but it seems reasonable.
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May 8, 2017 18:55
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He's the second owner from ~60K and has records for things he has done (for example, alternator to the tune of $1k). No records before that but he claims it was owned by an owner gentlemen who maintained it at the dealer. No record or history for the water pump, likely original. It has a couple cracks in the front bumper cover but other than that it is in really nice shape cosmetically. He also said it had a little puddle of something under it when it took it out of storage but didn't know what it was.
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May 8, 2017 19:17
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Your mileage is going to be something like 13/city, 19/highway, too, so might not be the best choice for a long hauler.
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May 8, 2017 20:33
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Ether Frenzy posted:Your mileage is going to be something like 13/city, 19/highway, too, so might not be the best choice for a long hauler. Comfort trumps MPG every time in a long hauler though. 50mpg and incessant road noise in my old Honda hatchback certainly doesn't beat 30mpg and comfort in my 645 when you're doing 6 hour stints.
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May 8, 2017 20:50
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http://m.autotrader.com/cars-for-sale/vehicledetails.xhtml?listingId=457042883 Speaking of 7 series, someone tell me why I shouldn't buy this
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May 8, 2017 21:43
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The chrome fender lips.
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May 9, 2017 00:49
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Quick question: E36 tach intermittently goes wonky and drops to 0 or swings up to 5,000. Usually a light press on the bottom of the gauge cluster clear plastic brings it back to life. Bad connection somewhere? How easy is it to fix? It's not awful but it's lightly annoying.
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May 9, 2017 11:23
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Tell me about Carly for BMW. It seems like the coding stuff is neat like having DVD in motion (which would be used to keep the kids entertained) but I find that lame that it is only an in-app purchase to unlock that. Is it a one-time in-app purchase to do the coding on the car, or do I need to pay $15 every time I want to code? Same for the battery and service engine resets. The adapter is ~$80 through Amazon, the app is $45, then there are the in-app purchases. Just trying to decide if it is worth it. My car just had a SES light come on, with iDrive telling me that there is increased emissions. I am thinking it could be idle control valve related. On one hand it would be nice to scan the error codes should they happen often-ish. I am sure I can find someone in the local BMW community that can do it for me too and I can throw a little  to do the coding, but if some say it is worth having then I would be open to buying it for myself.
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May 9, 2017 22:08
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After several months of ownership, I finally had an opportunity to use the cupholder in my e85 Z4. It is the worst cupholder in automotive history.
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May 9, 2017 22:13
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Somewhat Heroic posted:Tell me about Carly for BMW. It seems like the coding stuff is neat like having DVD in motion (which would be used to keep the kids entertained) but I find that lame that it is only an in-app purchase to unlock that. Is it a one-time in-app purchase to do the coding on the car, or do I need to pay $15 every time I want to code? Same for the battery and service engine resets. The adapter is ~$80 through Amazon, the app is $45, then there are the in-app purchases. Just trying to decide if it is worth it. My car just had a SES light come on, with iDrive telling me that there is increased emissions. I am thinking it could be idle control valve related. On one hand it would be nice to scan the error codes should they happen often-ish. Unless they changed it, general ECU coding is included with the price of the app. There are other things like the battery reset that cost more because they added it later and most people probably won't use it. Once you buy something, you can do it as many times as you want.
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May 9, 2017 22:51
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Carly is worth it IMHO, I only use it occasionally but it's got some neat stuff for diagnostics and what not and the ability to code is pretty solid. First thing I did was turn off the "Never use the screen or controller we mounted within view/reach of the driver's seat, while driving" message that prevents you from friggin' turning down the radio using the steering wheel controls until it goes away, on every start up. That 'Increased emissions' thing happens if you let the car idle for a long time (like 15-20 mins) and usually goes away after two or three restarts. At least for me, it's happened a couple times and that solved it. Alternately for like $100ish + the cost of the cable, you can get one of the remote guys on the forums to do coding for you like Mike Benvo, he seems to be one of the better rated ones on m3post.
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May 10, 2017 00:18
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Lincoln posted:After several months of ownership, I finally had an opportunity to use the cupholder in my e85 Z4. It is the worst cupholder in automotive history. http://www.ultimatecupholders.com/
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May 10, 2017 03:53
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Help me decide guys, what do I do with my E63 645? Front spring sheared last week and it's currently in the shop having that addressed. Since buying the car in October 2015 I've had the car poo poo the bed three times at great inconvenience. First was a seized water pump when I was driving. The second time, the alternator cooked itself and I had to drive across London with everything electrical shutting down. Now it's the springs. There is also the albatross around my neck of valve stem oil seals which are now approaching the point where not sorting it would be stupid/negligent ownership. I'm not sure whether I should just sell the thing and be done. With a bit of luck I can maybe get £6,000 for it which I'd be happy with. Market rate for equivalent cars is between £6-7,500 dependent on condition. I have full history of the car, going right back to the factory build sheet printed in 2004 and it's a pretty tidy example with the only optional extra not specced being the HUD. Alternatively, do I keep the car as I genuinely do love it, and drop ~£1,000 on getting the valve stem seals done and hoping for a few years of trouble free motoring? I can't be trusted to make the decision because I'm an idiot that gets emotionally invested in cars.
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May 10, 2017 16:41
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If you sold it for 6,000, and included the 1,000 it would cost to take care of the valve stem seals, do you think you could get a car you would enjoy for 7,000? And would that car then require any unexpected maintenance that would add to the cost? I think that since you like the car, and you know its history, you'd be best off spending the money for the preventative maintenance it needs and continue enjoying it. If you figure that it might end up costing you 1,000 in maintenance each year then you won't be surprised/disappointed when it does. And if you get trouble-free driving out of it, bonus!
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May 10, 2017 17:07
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GentlemanofLeisure posted:If you sold it for 6,000, and included the 1,000 it would cost to take care of the valve stem seals, do you think you could get a car you would enjoy for 7,000? And would that car then require any unexpected maintenance that would add to the cost? An additional factor for myself was that my old car was 100% paid off. So throwing $1000-$1500 a year into preventative work/repairs wasn't as hard to take as if I were also paying huge monthly payments.
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May 10, 2017 17:13
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Theophany posted:Help me decide guys, what do I do with my E63 645? I guess a lot of it depends on how you'd obtain a new car. Would it be new/used? Would you buy outright, or use the cash as a deposit with hire purchase or PCP? Would you downgrade to something newer and more reliable but less powerful? Etc. Perhaps it's worth seeing what tends to fail on these models and getting some form of inspection done to see if there's anything else coming up that needs work on top of what you already know about, so you have a better idea of potential future costs. From what I've seen you could get a facelift E90 325i for that kind of money, so it's not all doom and gloom.
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May 10, 2017 17:39
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All good points, thank you. Tbh, if I get the valve stem seals done it's a £7,000 car all day long as so few on the second hand market will have done the work done and sellers are reliant on suckers who don't do their research (me) buying the cars unaware of the horrible potential. BMW quote £6,000 for the job, most indies will be looking £2,500-5,000 for a heads off rebuild and for about £1,000 you can use a kit allowing you to replace the seals in situ. If I were to switch cars, I'd probably sell this one privately, take the cash and take my time to decide on a replacement. The sensible side of my brain would buy a cheap beater to end my communal parking anxiety and because I've drastically cut back my motorway mileage since switching jobs. I'll shop around for a few quotes and see what the suspension refresh ends up running me and take it from there I guess. I've read up extensively on common faults with the car and the only one I'd really get wound up about in the future is the coolant transfer pipe breaking which is pretty catastrophic (hello oil, meet coolant). Pretty much everything else that hasn't been addressed by the previous owner bar the valve seals I've had done at some point. And in all honesty, I would've had the seals done by BMW under warranty had I taken the car to them a day later. Warranty claims cannot be lodged within 60 days of opening the warranty and guess which shithead got his days mixed up!
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May 10, 2017 18:06
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DevCore posted:Looks like it's not transferable. I am super confused about this still. I brought all this up to the person selling me my car, and they specifically said 'the original maintenance plan on the car is good for 4 years, 50k miles, and follows the car, no matter who it's sold to'. They even pulled up the active warranty in their computer and showed it to me- it pretty clearly says maintenance plan valid through 2019. Now, it was as of before the sale, so I guess they could have been straight up lying to me, and if I pull it up after I receive the car and it's not on there, I will be really loving pissed. but super confused because I've seen documents that very explicitly say it doesn't transfer - and then I have these guys straight up getting annoyed with me because I'm pressing them on it and they're unequivocally saying it does transfer, HOW MANY TIMES DO WE HAVE TO TELL YOU IT WILL BE VALID UNTIL 2019. I dunno. I guess what I decided in the end, is that no matter what exact CPO BMW I buy, the story would be the same - either it transfers or it doesn't - and everything else about the car and deal was the best I've seen in a year of looking, so whatever I just bought it. worst case scenario the car spontaneously explodes tomorrow and I'm out 28k, and have learned an expensive lesson.  car arrives tomorrow 
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May 10, 2017 20:13
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I've never owned a car with any kind of warranty. Welcome to the club of thinking up what horrible ways your car will die. Don't forget about that cooling system.
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May 10, 2017 20:29
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mindphlux posted:I brought all this up to the person selling me my car, and they specifically said 'the original maintenance plan on the car is good for 4 years, 50k miles, and follows the car, no matter who it's sold to'. They even pulled up the active warranty in their computer and showed it to me- it pretty clearly says maintenance plan valid through 2019. I'd be really surprised if they did not honor it exactly like this, I think you'll be fine. You will enjoy the car, the N20 gets crapped on for not having the character of the inline sixes, which is true, but the midrange punch and overall performance with the 8 speed auto is great. I traded an E90 328 for a 2016 328 in December and am very satisfied. The seats in particular are a huge improvement. sanchez fucked around with this message at 21:02 on May 10, 2017 |
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May 10, 2017 20:52
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mindphlux posted:I am super confused about this still. When I got my 118i in January, the remaining balance of warranty and service plan was mine as it stays with the car. This is standard with all approved used BMWs.
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May 10, 2017 21:02
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mindphlux posted:They even pulled up the active warranty in their computer and showed it to me- it pretty clearly says maintenance plan valid through 2019. Is there a way to pull this up and check on the status? Like on the BMW site? But heck yeah! Can't wait to see it. Popete posted:I've never owned a car with any kind of warranty. Welcome to the club of thinking up what horrible ways your car will die. Yeah, this is the first car I've (maybe) had a warranty on. And good god, the one thing that drives me bonkers with the 228 is that it doesn't have a temperature gauge. Just the dumb fuel efficiency needle. I'm guessing/hoping my on board computer will "bling" at me if the oil temperature or pressure goes off kilter. Off topic, has anyone installed or had installed BAVSound speakers? I feel like my 15 year old GTi had a better sounding system. Wondering a $400 set of speakers will do much.
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May 10, 2017 21:15
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mindphlux posted:I am super confused about this still. how much maintenance does this car need before 50? 3-4 oil changes and two sets of wipers?
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May 10, 2017 21:27
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BraveUlysses posted:how much maintenance does this car need before 50? 3-4 oil changes and two sets of wipers? If it's on a BMW service plan it's probably only going to get 2 oil changes in that time. Hooray for condition based servicing.
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May 10, 2017 22:30
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Lincoln posted:After several months of ownership, I finally had an opportunity to use the cupholder in my e85 Z4. It is the worst cupholder in automotive history. Looks like someone hasn't been in one of the GM Kappa twins.
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May 11, 2017 00:18
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mindphlux posted:I am super confused about this still. To be clear, "warranty" and "maintenance plan" are two different things. The warranty (4/50 bumper-to-bumper) covers poo poo that's not supposed to break but does anyway and will transfer. The maintenance plan covers poo poo that is supposed to wear out (oil changes, air filters, wiper blades, etc) and will NOT transfer. The dude who is telling you that the maintenance program will transfer is lying or confused. I hope you got it in writing so that when the service department bills you for the non-free maintenance, you can have them send it straight to the sales department.
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May 11, 2017 04:26
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BraveUlysses posted:how much maintenance does this car need before 50? 3-4 oil changes and two sets of wipers? I have no idea, I have literally never owned a car A. with less than 50k miles on it, or B. that was purchased through a dealership. (or C, for kicks - that had any sort of warranty on it.) mindphlux's FunTime Car History Bonanza
I guess in retrospect I really got the gently caress worth of my money out of that E36. Still a good car, not too much wrong with it. I feel a tinge of guilt coming on giving it up...
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May 11, 2017 06:09
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What's the differences between the e34 manual and auto interior console? I'm still thinking about an e30 or e34, but the price is right for a couple of auto e34s right now. I was tending to an e30 for higher resale, but an e34 in black and manual would win out. Can't find one though. But the cheap auto 535i e34 for 2k is really tempting, and I've read if it's a 535 I don't have to change the pedal box, just driveline. For that cheap it seems worth it as there's always a WTB ads for manual 5 series $5-7k, just no one has them down here. My first car (mazda rx3) was auto and I didn't have much problems changing the 12a and auto to a 13b 5sp manual, it just cost me 2k back then. I've got a 5k budget so hopefully if I can get a decent 535 for $2k I have plenty of cash for a conversion. And if I do a decent spray job on the falcon ute that turns out well, would take the gamble on another spray job even if it took a month to do. Seen tech how tos for the driveline stuff http://www.bmwe34.net/E34main/Upgrade/5speedswap.htm But I've never seen the interior of the manual version, or know if interior parts and clutch pedal, hydraulic cylinders etc are still available new from pelican or whatever in the USA. There doesn't seem to be many manual 5 series e34s wrecking here, so very uncommon E: never mind, found a e34 manual converted 535 in the eastern states for about $2k for all required parts minus clutch. But that seems pretty high for all s/h from a wrecked car. It can be my back up plan anyway. Anyone done the conversion with new/repro parts? Fo3 fucked around with this message at 16:15 on May 12, 2017 |
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May 12, 2017 15:55
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Lincoln posted:After several months of ownership, I finally had an opportunity to use the cupholder in my e85 Z4. It is the worst cupholder in automotive history. It's not so much a cup holder as it is a spill coffee down your door holder.
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May 12, 2017 16:58
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ColdPie posted:It's not so much a cup holder as it is a spill coffee down your door holder. And in your lap! Don't forget about your lap.
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May 12, 2017 17:03
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Or the entire interior of the car if you're foolish enough to close the door while your cup's in there.
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May 12, 2017 18:59
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https://newyork.craigslist.org/brk/cto/6130366374.html Anyone have suggestions on pricing for my 335xi? I remember paying a bit of a premium when I bought it because manual models were so hard to find. Is the price I'm asking fair? I feel like the market for manuals is pretty small so I don't want it to take forever and a half to sell.
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May 13, 2017 20:41
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  Finally got a chance to wash the new e30 project. I won't really have much chance to work on it until next year. So far I've got the old suspension from the brown e30, a 3.73 LSD, some Recaro LX-Cs, and a few other bits saved for it. Gonna try to make a nice daily out of it - 24V, working AC, heated seats. It's got a Luke box in the trunk and a decent sound system too.
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May 14, 2017 14:44
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Party Alarm posted:
Man that brings back memories. My grandfather's 320i E30 was a loving hoot.
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May 14, 2017 18:30
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