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NomNomNom posted:Just as a PSA, if you're not using a vacuum when you sand, do so. Seconding this. I have a shop space with zero ventilation and this is one of the techniques I use to make it not leak dust into the house constantly. I can barely smell the dust while sanding when I have this set up during the rare times I'm not wearing a respirator.
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Jun 30, 2021 00:39
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My next project is going to be a storage cabinet/miter saw stand for the garage. Is there a concern using MDF instead plywood to build it? 3/4" thick carcass, 1/2" for drawers, going to experience -15°F in the winter, 105°F and humidity in the summer, will probably throw some cheap paint on it as a finish. It's like half the price of plywood where I've looked.
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Jun 30, 2021 01:22
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Mr. Mambold posted:I boiling water processed the chutney. And then poured melted paraffin on top. And then gave him an enema! I'm working on furniture, not on bits of my house.
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Jun 30, 2021 01:37
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Uthor posted:Bourbon Moth recently did a build with a bunch of cabinets for an entertainment center. This is the beginning of the build, the next video is the install and the previous video is him making the doors. I think I've already watched this video-- but yeah, maybe something similar. One dilemma is that since I did my kitchen remodel, I don't really have another wall to run my subwoofer to, other than the wall that the TV is on, so I'm not sure if what I should do is design the cabinets in such a way that there is a cavity for the subwoofer to slide into, get a wireless subwoofer setup, or something else. In addition I really don't know how to design a particularly practical setup with regards to dimensions, number of shelves, drawers, etc. The wall is 8' tall by ~197" long. A very cluttered house while:  Not to scale drawing of what I think I want:  This is one product I found which is maybe the idea I'm going for, although I'd like space for a larger television, and room for some AV equipment in the cabinets.  Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Rockler and fancy woodworking stores may have it...for a price. Otherwise a lumberyard that supplies cabinet shops. You might even ask a small cabinet shop if they could sell you some or order you some, as most of those places are wholesale only. You can get baltic birch in 4x8 sheets, or 5x5. One of my suppliers has one, one has the other and it may depend on your local market. One of my suppliers has prefinished import (vietnamese or whatever has replaced chinabirch) birch, but not baltic birch and I wouldn't think it was a commonly stocked product. Yeah I figured that all sorts of lumber may be very hard to come by-- which is partly why I've tossed around the idea of hacking/installing the Ikea Besta system, but the cabinets are too shallow for things like receivers. I've found a ikea hack of a guy who spaced them out from the wall and built a false wall and in-wall speakers, but I'm not sure that's the route I really want to go with. https://www.ikeahackers.net/2013/12/besta-depthadapted.html I don't think building cabinets or bookshelves would be especially difficult, assuming I can get consistent and reproducible cuts. However, I don't know how hard it would be to trim it out and close any gaps that will absolutely occur because houses don't have straight, or plumb, or flat walls. If there's some other modular shelving system out there that doesn't cost an arm and a leg I'm all ears and gets me out of building something custom I'm all ears. I found these guys, and quickly assembled a $9,000 entertainment center. So that's probably out. https://www.bdiusa.com/modular
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Jun 30, 2021 07:47
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When a (softwood) board has suffered from some form of wood-boring creature, do I need to remediate it any more than just cutting off the visibly-affected portion? Or are they like bed bugs for planks?
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Jun 30, 2021 21:35
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Jaded Burnout posted:When a (softwood) board has suffered from some form of wood-boring creature, do I need to remediate it any more than just cutting off the visibly-affected portion? Or are they like bed bugs for planks? Depends pretty wildly on the creature in question and how the board has been treated since it was chewed on. If it's old damage from a standing tree, and the lumber was kiln dried then you can just cut off the bad stuff. If it's old damage from a standing tree and it wasn't kiln dried it's likely fine (particularly if the creature in question was a larger borer). If it's damage suffered when the lumber was already sawn, it's definitely into the realm of powder post beetles and similar that like to eat dead wood. Those are bad news and need to be dealt with using Timbor/Boracare/etc treatment.
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Jun 30, 2021 22:39
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Hypnolobster posted:Depends pretty wildly on the creature in question and how the board has been treated since it was chewed on. If it's old damage from a standing tree, and the lumber was kiln dried then you can just cut off the bad stuff. If it's old damage from a standing tree and it wasn't kiln dried it's likely fine (particularly if the creature in question was a larger borer). If it's damage suffered when the lumber was already sawn, it's definitely into the realm of powder post beetles and similar that like to eat dead wood. Those are bad news and need to be dealt with using Timbor/Boracare/etc treatment. I thought that might be the case. So these are boards which were installed in a house circa 1908 and removed in 2017, and dumped in the garden where they've remained, exposed to the elements and the ground for 4 years, and now I'm recovering them. I've no idea whether the damage was there prior to them being removed from the house, but I'd be willing to go either way with it. I doubt the damage was there prior to being originally installed in the house.
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Jun 30, 2021 23:34
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Jaded Burnout posted:I thought that might be the case. So these are boards which were installed in a house circa 1908 and removed in 2017, and dumped in the garden where they've remained, exposed to the elements and the ground for 4 years, and now I'm recovering them. I've no idea whether the damage was there prior to them being removed from the house, but I'd be willing to go either way with it. I'd guess you have some kind of powderpost beetle damage. They get in the wood while it's still green, munch around for a few years, then emerge and go find some (usually wetter) wood to lay their eggs on and don't usually perpetually eat a house. The heat from kiln drying will kill them, but most older wood was not kiln dried. If you see little piles of sawdust around tiny holes, you probably have an active infestation. They can be hard to get rid of because most pesticides can easily get below the surface of the wood, but it's also likely that you are just seeing old damage. I wouldn't bring it inside your house until you were sure though as they are contagious to some extent. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Common_furniture_beetle And a deeper dive: https://entomology.ca.uky.edu/ef616
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Jul 1, 2021 00:11
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Jaded Burnout posted:I thought that might be the case. So these are boards which were installed in a house circa 1908 and removed in 2017, and dumped in the garden where they've remained, exposed to the elements and the ground for 4 years, and now I'm recovering them. I've no idea whether the damage was there prior to them being removed from the house, but I'd be willing to go either way with it. This well could have been avoided if you'd taken the time to periodically flip those exposed slats. probably not, beetles don't give a fig about that and don't get me started on fig beetles! Hello Jaded, haven't seen you around here in a while.....
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Jul 1, 2021 00:52
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Mr. Mambold posted:Hello Jaded, haven't seen you around here in a while..... Attributed I guess to either increased competence (needing to ask fewer questions) or decreased productivity (fewer questions arising). I haven't had a good woodworking project going for a while that didn't just get dumped in my project thread. I'll have something to show off eventually, but for now it is at best a cavalcade of carpentry. Buying £8,000 of wood isn't very interesting if it's all construction grade. Jaded Burnout fucked around with this message at 01:26 on Jul 1, 2021 |
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Jul 1, 2021 01:23
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Jaded Burnout posted:Buying £8,000 of wood isn't very interesting if it's all construction grade. What’re you gonna do with a single 2x4
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Jul 1, 2021 01:32
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Bad Munki posted:What’re you gonna do with a single 2x4 Carve some art like people do with pencil leads.
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Jul 1, 2021 12:07
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Jaded Burnout posted:Attributed I guess to either increased competence (needing to ask fewer questions) or decreased productivity (fewer questions arising). I haven't had a good woodworking project going for a while that didn't just get dumped in my project thread. Woodworking: A ca-ca-cavalcade of ca-ca-carpentry
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Jul 1, 2021 16:23
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When a stain is something like “Red Oak”, what would you need to do to actual red oak to get a similar color?
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Jul 1, 2021 21:28
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In theory, just put any clear or nearly-clear finish on it. In practice, stain manufacturers are not held to some kind of enforced standard of what color red oak is or should be, so you should not assume that someone's "red oak" colored stain has an especially close resemblance to actual red oak.
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Jul 1, 2021 22:56
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Leperflesh posted:In theory, just put any clear or nearly-clear finish on it. In practice, stain manufacturers are not held to some kind of enforced standard of what color red oak is or should be, so you should not assume that someone's "red oak" colored stain has an especially close resemblance to actual red oak. And, of course, red oak itself varies a lot.
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Jul 1, 2021 23:05
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Depending on type, brand, or wood, I've found "dark walnut" ranges from orange to espresso. hth
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Jul 1, 2021 23:38
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Calidus posted:When a stain is something like “Red Oak”, what would you need to do to actual red oak to get a similar color? Stain manufacturers should be forbidden from labelling their stain anything but like 'Brown, reddish' 'Brown, light amber' with the pigment formula after it or something.
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Jul 1, 2021 23:44
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All the wood(trim, paneling, doors) in my house is a “red oak” color. I have used minwax red oak stain to do some repair work. I want make some shelves to match. I bought a piece of scrap red oak to play with. Guess I try mineral oil and fake tung oil before I buy more finishes.
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Jul 1, 2021 23:58
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Whatever is in your house probably has a film finish of some sort like shellac or poly on it and stains may not look right with oil. Usually stuff like minwax is pretty good at matching itself and the wood underneath doesn't matter a ton. If it has matched your other trim decently, it will probably be fine on red oak too. You may need to thin it with mineral spirits if it's too dark or do multiple coats/leave on longer if it is too light.
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Jul 2, 2021 00:24
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I turned another bowl! Never know what you're going to find inside a random log a neighbor sticks on the curb. In this case it was spalting, and ants. Lots of ants.
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Jul 2, 2021 01:23
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I can only imagine cutting into a blank on the lathe and having it suddenly start spraying ants like a water sprinkler. The imagery just made my night.
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Jul 2, 2021 04:01
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The junk collector posted:I can only imagine cutting into a blank on the lathe and having it suddenly start spraying ants like a water sprinkler. The imagery just made my night. I'M ANTS IN MY EYES NOMNOMNOM!
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Jul 2, 2021 04:22
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The junk collector posted:I can only imagine cutting into a blank on the lathe and having it suddenly start spraying ants like a water sprinkler. The imagery just made my night. fuuuuuuuuuuck
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Jul 2, 2021 13:59
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That's why you wear safety glasses folks. Ants in the eyes is no laughing matter.
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Jul 2, 2021 14:47
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Taking a blank to a lathe only for it to crumble apart like a pomegranate filled with ants while NomNomNom stands there like 
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Jul 2, 2021 15:48
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More or less. I cut a blank outside and it started spewing termites. That did not come in the house.
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Jul 2, 2021 16:00
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NomNomNom posted:More or less. I cut a blank outside and it started spewing termites. That did not come in the house. Would you say the termites were going…..’nomnomnom’? 
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Jul 2, 2021 16:04
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signalnoise posted:Taking a blank to a lathe only for it to crumble apart like a pomegranate filled with ants while NomNomNom stands there like I love this photo. I have also made this same exact mistake. I feel you grammy
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Jul 2, 2021 18:21
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That Works posted:I love this photo. But just lift the bowl into place.  I have not made this mistake, but I have cleaned up after it. It is unpleasant. Sanding that coffee table today after finishing the round over on the top. I can point out each spot on this thing where I’ve made a mistake, but that’s because I made them. If I didn’t know better I could find 2-3 if I look closely. So absolutely good enough to pick out a stain and find a finish that won’t pick up drink marks when it inevitably gets drinks left on them. What do they put on boats? J/k I’ll just probably grab some polyurethane for the top.
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Jul 2, 2021 19:09
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I am a huge fan of Varathane's triple thick poly. Looks like and brushes on like snot, but it's magically self leveling. One coat to finish, dry to touch in two hours.
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Jul 2, 2021 20:24
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NomNomNom posted:I am a huge fan of Varathane's triple thick poly. Looks like and brushes on like snot, but it's magically self leveling. One coat to finish, dry to touch in two hours. Those are both really useful selling points. I'll take a look for it when I go pick out my finishes. I also have a hand rail to do, and I suppose it would work well for it being a mostly high contact area too. It'll be getting stained first, so I'll make sure I grab a water based stain so I don't need to worry about them interfering with each other.
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Jul 2, 2021 22:02
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Question for folks. I have been helping a friend work on a river table as his intro to woodworking but his form appears to have been slightly screwy and we have ever so slight V action going on the table top. Essentially there's a slight cupping that isn't actually moisture cupping. Unfortunately I can't find a local place that will rent wide belt sander time or I'd tell him just to do that. Is there any point trying to flatten this by sanding (he really just needs the spots for flat steel plate coffee table legs to mount evenly, right now the resin/inner wood is about 1/8 ish above either end) given what a pain sanding resing at the same rate as wood is or should I break down and make a router flattening jig with him (I really don't want to do this as we'd have to purpose buy wood for it at this point. He gives no shits about the slight concaveness on the top, it's really only the flatness of the bottom allowing the steel plates to attach properly.
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Jul 2, 2021 22:22
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Generalissimo
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How big of a table are we talking here? My instinct would be to grab a hand plane and flatten things that way. Shavings are cleaner/safer than sanding. I don't know what your steel legs look like, but if they just need 4 level, aligned flat points to mount to, then I think what I'd do is put the table upside-down on a known-flat surface, mark the points I want to level out, and then get four identical blocks the size of the mounting plates. Periodically put the blocks on the areas you're working on, then measure how level they are both for each individual block, and from one block to another. It'll be kind of fiddly, but you should be able to creep up on the right shape.
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Jul 2, 2021 22:33
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:How big of a table are we talking here? My instinct would be to grab a hand plane and flatten things that way. Shavings are cleaner/safer than sanding. Off the top of my head it's about 2'x6' The blocking is a good idea. The legs themselves are about 18" X shaped legs with a flat steel plate for mounting (similar to  )Unfortunately my only plane is a garbage entry level stanley block plane, I'm hoping to get a proper plane soon as my uncle is bringing my grandfather's old gear when he comes to visit in a month or two but that doesn't help me now. I'd worry about getting it done properly using just the baby plane. I'm willing to try if it would work but I also don't want to gently caress up his piece. (I'm also annoyed as this is eating into my time to finish my own coffee table project heh) Toast fucked around with this message at 22:40 on Jul 2, 2021 |
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Jul 2, 2021 22:37
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OK, yeah, that's way too big to use a block plane on. If you have a belt sander, that might work. You'll want to stop and check frequently, though, because belt sanders are very aggressive and it's easy to overshoot your target. Honestly, you might also consider using a chisel to cut out a recess in the wood. You don't need to remove much thickness...a 1" chisel would probably be able to remove it in a vaguely reasonable amount of time. It'd be way more controlled than a belt sander would be, too.
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Jul 3, 2021 00:24
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Toast posted:Question for folks. For power tools that you only need to use once, and might only be able to use once, there's Harbor Freight. You can get your belt sander or power planer there.
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Jul 3, 2021 00:54
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:OK, yeah, that's way too big to use a block plane on. Yeah overdoing the removal is what I'm most worried about, god I wish I had access to a wide belt sander.
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Jul 3, 2021 00:57
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Is Just Sending It an option? Like will the flat part of the steel legs just pull the top flat? Personally I always Just Send It, for better or worse. Desk is almost done, just got some poly on the legs, will attach the top in the morning.
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Jul 3, 2021 01:13
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NomNomNom posted:Is Just Sending It an option? Like will the flat part of the steel legs just pull the top flat? This is the correct answer if it's 1" thick or less. Trying to flatten a curved slab like that just doesn't satisfy. The only way to take out the cup is to rip the thing right down the middle of the cup and re-glue, but I'd go with NomNomNom's advice. Have him clamp the table at the end he's starting at and just make sure he gets the top flush with the plates as he screws..... and the rigidity of the steel should straighten it over time. Or you could make a router jig that allows you to just cut an even inlay for the plates. That will never take the cup out, but will allow an easy mounting. Who cares what the bottom looks like? Toast posted:Yeah overdoing the removal is what I'm most worried about, god I wish I had access to a wide belt sander. No. No, you don't.
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Jul 3, 2021 01:30
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