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Javid posted:This is what I've been doing instead of dealing with donut spares for a decade now. Difference between a 50 mile limp to get a new tire, and having plenty of time to replace the flat because you still have four non bullshit tires My problem is that I can't fit a spare tire anywhere other than in the trunk, and then it takes up so much space that the truck becomes much less useful. I've been considering a roof rack to carry a spare. Otherwise I have a patch kit and compressor and hope I'm not stuck in farmland on a Saturday night.
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Aug 24, 2021 22:51
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whenever i've had a flat they've towed me on a flatbed. i just tell them i don't have a spare, because i don't on the M5
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Aug 24, 2021 23:15
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if you have no spare and would choose to deal with being towed, then AAA is the best game in town for you yeah. Anecdotally, even my insurance company's sales people were like "oh yeah if you have AAA don't waste money on OUR roadside assistance"
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Aug 24, 2021 23:25
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I've actually had a really good experience with Geico's roadside assistance the couple of times I've had to use it.
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Aug 25, 2021 00:34
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I haven't driven my car in about a week. Battery has gone flat (rapid clicking when turning key). I knew I wouldn't be driving, so I disconnected the battery when I parked it. I pulled the red terminal off. Although something in my head remembered it being the black one to disconnect for storage, I figured the circuit would be broken anyway, right? Anyway, battery dead and not sure why. It's within warranty so I'll just replace it, but I don't ubderstand how it goes flat in a week while being disconnected. Any ideas?
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Aug 25, 2021 04:41
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Older battery in hot weather? The disconnect did indeed break the circuit - the battery is bad.
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Aug 25, 2021 05:02
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For what it's worth, the reason it's always recommended to disconnect negative first / reconnect it last is to prevent you from being able to short the battery to ground while working on the positive terminal, such as if your wrench bumps the body while on the positive terminal.
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Aug 25, 2021 05:31
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2014 Lexus IS350 F-Sport AWD Got a flat, passenger front. Put spare on, took to dealership because that's where Zurich told me to go to be covered by the wheel and tire plan i got when i purchased the car. They said there was damage to the side wall so must replace. Insurance will pay for 1 new tire, mounting, balancing. But of course I'm worried about the AWD. How much tread difference between a new tire and the existing tires is enough to merit paying for all new 4 tires? Or could I get away with just replacing driver front too, or is it an all or nothing sort of thing? I hate to have to pay for all new tires every time i get one flat. I've been driving on these since July 2020 but work from home so i haven't driven it all *that* much. Front are 225/40ZR-18 MICHELIN PILOT SPORT 4S XL, rear are 255/35ZR-18 MICHELIN PILOT SPORT 4S XL. In looking that up, I also noticed i have free road hazard protection from tirerack. Should I stick with Zurich since they work well with the dealership or should i try going through tirerack's claim? Most important thing I need to know though is can i get away with replacing the tire, or should i get a new driver front, or should i get all 4 new. Thanks guys! Edit: Oh also do I have to get an alignment? The guy at the dealership is recommending it but idk if that's an upsell or if it really should be done when replacing tire(s). Edit2: If this helps, i asked the guy to provide the current tread depths. He said: 8/32 Driver front, 8/32 driver rear, 7-8/32 passenger rear. (looked it up, tread depth new is 9.5/32). So a 1.5-2.5/32" difference. What do you think? yamdankee fucked around with this message at 15:44 on Aug 25, 2021 |
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Aug 25, 2021 15:34
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One-year-old tire and not driven much in that year? Me, I would not worry about it. Do the front pair if it bothers you that much, and keep the undamaged tire as a spare. No, you do not need an alignment, that's an upsell unless the tire blew because you hit a fixed object (curb, pothole, etc).
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Aug 25, 2021 15:45
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PainterofCrap posted:One-year-old tire and not driven much in that year? Me, I would not worry about it. Thank you very much! Guy told me it'd be $675 for 3 new tires (1 covered by insurance), and $140 for alignment. You saved me $915 and provided peace of mind that i'm not hurting the AWD. Thank you thank you! Edit: Possibly dumb followup question: Is it worth looking into getting it shaved by a place that does that? Like is that a legit thing and is it something i should maybe do to get the tread depth closer to matching? yamdankee fucked around with this message at 16:13 on Aug 25, 2021 |
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Aug 25, 2021 16:10
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I used Tire Rack shaving and it was a good experience to get peace of mind on ~3 / 32nds difference if I remember right. I am personally skeptical that a small difference like that would cause meaningful AWD differential wear, but decided to do it anyway. Would I have been fine if I didn't get it shaved? Probably.
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Aug 25, 2021 16:15
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yamdankee posted:Edit: Possibly dumb followup question: Is it worth looking into getting it shaved by a place that does that? Like is that a legit thing and is it something i should maybe do to get the tread depth closer to matching? It's a thing that can be done, but we can't tell you if it SHOULD be done without a tread depth measurement of your existing tires vs a new tire. There should be specs in the owner's manual (and if not the factory service manual) as to how much of a variance is allowable. Also, that shop is trying to upsell you, and likely someone there need three+ good tires in that size.
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Aug 25, 2021 16:16
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Oh ok nice so you had ~3/32nds difference and weren't super worried about it. I'm reading from some sources that 2/32" is a general rule in allowing the replacement of only a single tire. I looked it up and I see a few places near me that do it. I wonder how much it costs...
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Aug 25, 2021 16:17
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yamdankee posted:I wonder how much it costs... Less than replacing a center diff. Just measure the tires.
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Aug 25, 2021 16:20
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Motronic posted:Also, that shop is trying to upsell you, and likely someone there need three+ good tires in that size. I never thought about this. Tire shops routinely charge something like ~$10 / tire 'recycling fee' around me. There are probably shops that charge the fee then just turn around and sell the used tires for profit right? Maybe even most of them. They're profiting on a profit! Brilliant.
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Aug 25, 2021 16:20
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Motronic posted:Less than replacing a center diff. Great point! As far as measurement, do you mean the tread depth or the actual diameter? Because I added the tread depth to my original question (8/32 Driver front, 8/32 driver rear, 7-8/32 passenger rear. (tread depth new is 9.5/32))
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Aug 25, 2021 16:27
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yamdankee posted:Great point! If they are identical make/model/size tires you should expect their diameter to be the same. If they are not....well, don't do that. So yeah, tread depth is what matters. Yours doesn't sound too bad, but I'd do some digging to find out what Lexus has to say about it.
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Aug 25, 2021 16:31
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Motronic posted:If they are identical make/model/size tires you should expect their diameter to be the same. If they are not....well, don't do that. Yeah I made sure they are replacing with the same exact model tire. All the actual manual says is "Do not mix tires of different makes, models or tread patterns. Also, do not mix tires of remarkably different treadwear." So i'll look around to see what lexus thinks is "remarkably" different, ha. Thanks for all your help guys, really appreciate it!
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Aug 25, 2021 16:35
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1.5/32 different - therefore your diameter instead of being pi*2r is now Pi*2(r+1.5/32). The difference in overall diameter is 3pi 32nds or just under a third of an inch. That doesn't seem like a lot but I'd RTFM and do what it says as AWD cars can be finnicky.
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Aug 25, 2021 21:45
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gently caress shaving the tire down. Mount it on the rim, call a friend with a car that has an open diff , bolt on the tire and get them to do a sickass burnout. Post video
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Aug 25, 2021 23:49
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Hmm the pipe that connects the muffler to the engine has rusted apart and fallen off of my 2007 Subaru outback. It obviously still runs but louder, how long is bad to have it like that? The timing is inconvenient cause I just threw all my cash in a fire to buy a condo
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Aug 26, 2021 01:21
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Wowporn posted:Hmm the pipe that connects the muffler to the engine has rusted apart and fallen off of my 2007 Subaru outback. It obviously still runs but louder, how long is bad to have it like that? So the biggest problem there is poisoning yourself with CO. You need to NOT be sitting around at stop signs/lights with the windows closed. I'd in fact say you shouldn't be driving it at all.
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Aug 26, 2021 01:29
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Where live an exhaust leak is instant failure on inspection but maybe it's not in the United States of Freedom to poison yourself In fact I think if it gets bad enough cops can pull you over for it.
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Aug 26, 2021 07:38
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If you dont mind getting very dirty you could just crawl under there with a hack saw and bits of pipe and fix it yourself.
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Aug 26, 2021 13:34
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Inner Light posted:Classic! Had the same looking damage with my car but it wasn't making symptoms, I was having it looked at for other stuff and there was a bunch of CV grease everywhere. Sorry man. I replaced the CV yesterday and I think overtightened the axle bolt, and when I accelerate hard there's the worse grinding sound you can imagine coming from that wheel. Oh also that sound isn't really gone at all. Guess I had a bad wheel bearing all along? Going to replace that today. Fuckkk
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Aug 26, 2021 14:02
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spankmeister posted:Where live an exhaust leak is instant failure on inspection but maybe it's not in the United States of Freedom to poison yourself lol, in glorious USA only 14 of 50 states require any inspections at all. I routinely share the road with all kind of garbage vehicles that should have been scrap decades ago.
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Aug 26, 2021 15:02
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spankmeister posted:Where live an exhaust leak is instant failure on inspection but maybe it's not in the United States of Freedom to poison yourself The state I live in does not have inspections at all. The car is also not nearly as loud as I was afraid it would be without the muffler so between now and when I can get it fixed I will at least not piss off everyone in my parking garage.
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Aug 26, 2021 15:02
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Enos Cabell posted:lol, in glorious USA only 14 of 50 states require any inspections at all. I routinely share the road with all kind of garbage vehicles that should have been scrap decades ago. poo poo, IL doesn't do emissions testing, though Cook County (Chicago) does. I'm always a little surprised when someone says they need to go in for a test. Or has to pay for a city sticker. I haven't had to do either for 20 years. Well, 40 years, since I didn't own a car until after college and I moved south of I-80.
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Aug 26, 2021 15:16
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My state USED to do inspections but stopped about twenty years ago. So the law and the infrastructure was in place but they just kneecapped it for freedumb. The reasoning I heard was that the $4 or whatever that shops were allowed to charge drivers was losing them money but the state wasn't willing to raise the allowed fee.
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Aug 26, 2021 15:27
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Uthor posted:poo poo, IL doesn't do emissions testing, though Cook County (Chicago) does. I'm always a little surprised when someone says they need to go in for a test. Or has to pay for a city sticker. I haven't had to do either for 20 years. Well, 40 years, since I didn't own a car until after college and I moved south of I-80. Lake County (one north of Cook, up on the border) does it too. Bit of a 'what the gently caress' moment when I got that letter in the mail after moving up here from central IL.
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Aug 26, 2021 15:34
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Ohio has biennial emissions testing in a small set of counties for vehicles between four and 25 years old. Now that everything required to be tested is OBD-2 they've been shutting down the test stations in favor if self-service kiosks. I just did mine the other day. You scan the VIN barcode in your door, plug in the OBD2 dongle, the dongle asks the ECU about the various emissions self test states, and if the ECU says it's all good your VIN gets flagged as clear to renew for another two years. Easy and quick. The state legislature made noise this year about removing the requirement, but all they'd be able to do is ask the EPA to let them do it.
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Aug 26, 2021 15:39
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Uthor posted:poo poo, IL doesn't do emissions testing, though Cook County (Chicago) does. I'm always a little surprised when someone says they need to go in for a test. Or has to pay for a city sticker. I haven't had to do either for 20 years. Well, 40 years, since I didn't own a car until after college and I moved south of I-80. Hmm.... that is not accurate anymore. IL does have statewide emissions testing. They don't seem to give a drat about any other safety aspects of a car whatsoever, no inspection of brakes etc., but they do a quick OBD2 test required every couple years. https://www2.illinois.gov/epa/topics/air-quality/mobile-sources/Pages/vehicle-emissions-testing.aspx quote:Most 1996 and newer gasoline-powered passenger vehicles are subject to emissions inspections after they are four years old (e.g. 2012 vehicles are being inspected in 2016 for the first time). The inspection month coincides with the expiration date of the vehicle license plate. Typically, even model-year vehicles are inspected during even years, and odd model-year vehicles are inspected in odd years.
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Aug 26, 2021 15:40
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Inner Light posted:Hmm.... that is not accurate anymore. IL does have statewide emissions testing. They don't seem to give a drat about any other safety aspects of a car whatsoever, no inspection of brakes etc., but they do a quick OBD2 test required every couple years. Emissions testing is mandated in certain areas by the people who run your locations EPA region. It's tied to federal funding and grants, so the states have to play along with whatever the EPA jams into the federal register. Same deal with vapor recovery requirements on gasoline pumps.
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Aug 26, 2021 15:43
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Inner Light posted:Hmm.... that is not accurate anymore. IL does have statewide emissions testing. They don't seem to give a drat about any other safety aspects of a car whatsoever, no inspection of brakes etc., but they do a quick OBD2 test required every couple years. Huh, first I've heard of it. Putting in my address, the closet place is over 90 miles away, only four locations within 100 miles. All around Joliet. I don't think this applies to Central IL.
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Aug 26, 2021 16:07
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VelociBacon posted:I replaced the CV yesterday and I think overtightened the axle bolt, and when I accelerate hard there's the worse grinding sound you can imagine coming from that wheel. Oh also that sound isn't really gone at all. Guess I had a bad wheel bearing all along? Going to replace that today. Fuckkk Check that you tightened the lugs!! ASAP
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Aug 26, 2021 17:08
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Uthor posted:Huh, first I've heard of it. Putting in my address, the closet place is over 90 miles away, only four locations within 100 miles. All around Joliet. I don't think this applies to Central IL. Ah my mistake, you were correct originally! The wording is vague and unclear, but upon a reread I can see they focus it only on certain areas in Illinois that are more urban. Go figure.
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Aug 26, 2021 17:20
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Charles posted:Check that you tightened the lugs!! ASAP Definitely did! If I somehow pulled my new CV axle out of joint I assume it would be making horrible noises all the time right? I have to pop that out of the hub when I replace the bearing later today anyways, wondering how I can 'check' the wheel end of the new CV axle.
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Aug 26, 2021 18:05
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2006 Mazda 3, it's always pulled to the right, figured it was just out of alignment/worn suspension stuff because it's a bit of an old, rusty nightmare underneath. Today I took my front tires off to check my sway bar links (which were a bit discolored but didn't make noise) and decided to rotate my front tires, lo and behold as I was driving around later my car now pulls to the left in the same exact manner it pulled to the right! I double-checked the torque and tire pressure, and both were even and correct. What else should I check? Could an unbalanced tire cause a pull to the side?
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Aug 27, 2021 01:35
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DildenAnders posted:2006 Mazda 3, it's always pulled to the right, figured it was just out of alignment/worn suspension stuff because it's a bit of an old, rusty nightmare underneath. Today I took my front tires off to check my sway bar links (which were a bit discolored but didn't make noise) and decided to rotate my front tires, lo and behold as I was driving around later my car now pulls to the left in the same exact manner it pulled to the right! I double-checked the torque and tire pressure, and both were even and correct. What else should I check? Could an unbalanced tire cause a pull to the side? I would hazard a guess that the fundamental problem was misalignment, specifically camber in the right front, causing the outside of the tire to wear faster than the inside and making the car pull right. Now with the tire on the left front, the smaller outside diameter is making the car pull to the left. Check your front tires to see if the tread is worn evenly across. If not, get an alignment and a new set of tires.
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Aug 27, 2021 01:52
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Will do once it's light out again. Any tips on getting through the tire shop BS of "I'm not going to do an alignment until we replace X,Y, Z?"
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Aug 27, 2021 02:25
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