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Guitarchitect posted:Any advice on a good dust collector? Honestly, I just picked up the 540CFM Craftex and it's perfect for a shop like mine. You can't expect to have a full DC system for a small shop where you aren't working 7.5 hours per day. Pull the DC to the tool you are using and hook up. It's worth the 100's of dollars to buy other tools and not a huge DC system.  
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Oct 27, 2011 19:04
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MarshallX posted:Honestly, I just picked up the 540CFM Craftex and it's perfect for a shop like mine. You can't expect to have a full DC system for a small shop where you aren't working 7.5 hours per day. Pull the DC to the tool you are using and hook up. Totally jealous of that setup. I need something similar but I don't think I have the width. Gonna have to get clever with layout and tools on wheeled bases! I'm hoping the floor doesn't slope *too* severely. Anyone know anything about routers? A local guy is selling 2 Makita routers in a carry case, models 3612 (plunging) and RF1101 for $225CAD
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Oct 27, 2011 21:10
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Reggie Died posted:It's made out of basic pine-faced playwood, and framed with some s4sfir strips. On the next one I'll use much nicer wood, but used the cheap stuff (5/8 or 3/4) for my first try. Yeah man that's be great, I'd love to see some details. Feel free to PM the images to me.
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Oct 27, 2011 22:36
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Guitarchitect posted:Totally jealous of that setup. I need something similar but I don't think I have the width. Gonna have to get clever with layout and tools on wheeled bases! I'm hoping the floor doesn't slope *too* severely. I have had nothing but awesome success with the Mastercraft Maximum Router - I am not a huge fan of Mastercraft tools but it's one that I feel works far better than any other 300$ router out there - personal opinion - but yeah. Most wheel bases or tools with wheels will have brakes you can throw on.
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Oct 28, 2011 00:53
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I just visited my new shop area under the cover of night (landlord wasn't around, garage was open). it's TIGHT - probably exactly 8' wide. is that retarded for a shop? not sure how I'm going to reliably rip a full 4x8 sheet of plywood, which will probably be my main building material. circular saw to get it to 6'? hm. EDIT: Found this - awesome setup. And the kicker: "I cut the sheets to rough size with a circular saw in my driveway, then trim them at the tablesaw" - guess I have a new tool to buy 
Guitarchitect fucked around with this message at 01:58 on Oct 28, 2011 |
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Oct 28, 2011 01:10
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MarshallX posted:Most wheel bases or tools with wheels will have brakes you can throw on. I was thinking more for an uneven work surface - if I wanted to make a large table like the one here, it would need to have an adjustment on the wheels so I could raise/lower the work surface and level it.
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Oct 28, 2011 01:14
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Guitarchitect posted:Totally jealous of that setup. I need something similar but I don't think I have the width. Gonna have to get clever with layout and tools on wheeled bases! I'm hoping the floor doesn't slope *too* severely. No advice on those particular models but if you plan on it doing part duty in a router table you should ensure it can be adjusted through the bottom plate. Also, soft start is a really nice feature to have. Guitarchitect posted:I just visited my new shop area under the cover of night (landlord wasn't around, garage was open). A Festool TS55 (I have and like, great for breaking down panels) and Festool MFT (I don't have) make compact alternative to the traditional table saw setup. You'll definitely need a router table with that though. Just something to consider, I wouldn't necessarily go that route but I don't have space issues. kafkasgoldfish fucked around with this message at 04:06 on Oct 28, 2011 |
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Oct 28, 2011 04:01
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Random thing: friend has a project car for which he wanted a new shifter knob, in wood. I had some maple lying around, so we made one today. He still had the original medallion from the old shifter, so we inlaid that and it turned out all right:
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Oct 28, 2011 04:12
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/\/\ That's beautiful! I've never had any luck with inlaying stuff. What's your secret? I finally got a chance to install the glass windows and move the liquor cabinet/bookshelf into my house. It's stocked with assorted booze (even some goony Crystal Head). From top to bottom. Booze Books and a watercolour painting of some thistles Books and some of my homemade plumb brandy Some more books, a chamber pot, and two RCAF egg cups. In the first photo you can see the matching coffee table I made a few months ago covered with junk and the floor I refinished back in April. I recently repainted the trim and walls, but still have to paint those sliding doors and put the 1/4 round trim in. Click for big  
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Oct 28, 2011 04:42
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Blistex posted:/\/\ That's beautiful! I've never had any luck with inlaying stuff. What's your secret? The secret was to inlay a round thing into an object made on the lathe...just cut a divot of the right size, and drop the medallion in. :P
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Oct 28, 2011 04:50
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So, I'm looking to build a somewhat portable chest of sorts for my Girlfriend for Christmas, and was wondering, what's a good type of wood that's pretty durable, but doesn't weight a whole lot. Would just pine be the best kind for that?
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Oct 28, 2011 04:52
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Cedar's pretty popular for chests, I believe, and it smells awesome to boot (especially if you line the interior with aromatic cedar.) And it's fairly light as well. Rot resistant, etc.
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Oct 28, 2011 04:57
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kafkasgoldfish posted:No advice on those particular models but if you plan on it doing part duty in a router table you should ensure it can be adjusted through the bottom plate. Also, soft start is a really nice feature to have. Hm... I'm skeptical about how true + parallel the cuts would be with that. I watched a few vids and people do talk about how the guides aren't for squareness, just parallel cuts. For making drawers + shelves + the like I'll need to cut a lot of dadoes and smaller (<8") dimensions of stock, and the guide looks pretty dodgy on top of fatter/short/non-panel stock... do you basically only use it for cutting panels to size? I wonder if this guy's panel cutting table could happily mate with this guy's sacrificial table for a simpler regular circular saw panel cutting setup. If I were to buy a cheapo circular saw and a decent blade, would it cause a tonne of splintering?
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Oct 28, 2011 06:09
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Guitarchitect posted:Hm... I'm skeptical about how true + parallel the cuts would be with that. I watched a few vids and people do talk about how the guides aren't for squareness, just parallel cuts. For making drawers + shelves + the like I'll need to cut a lot of dadoes and smaller (<8") dimensions of stock, and the guide looks pretty dodgy on top of fatter/short/non-panel stock... do you basically only use it for cutting panels to size? Like I said, I don't have the MFT though I have heard good things about it. I was under the impression it would be fine for doing square cuts. The aluminum tracks are certainly capable of doing repeatedly accurate cuts if setup correctly. The wood whisperer talks about his MFT on occasion and has suggested he uses it for a similar purpose. It's something worth researching anyhow. Having said that, I have a nice table saw so in my situation I find the Festool plunge saw is best for doing the crosscuts in the panels or rips cuts that are more than 28" or so my table saw can rip. I think Makita makes a track saw now too so that may be a cost effective alternative (the dewalt track saw is more or less the same $$ as the Festool). edit: I like the cut table. If I were to do it, I wouldn't make the rails run the full length of the table and I would make the stops taller. It seems kind of goofy to have to put spacers under the material to ensure everything is always 3/4" thick. Having stops that you can reference the back edge of the track against would ensure squareness without the rails necessarily being continuous along the full length of the table. There's nothing wrong that sacrificial table although I'm just using a 4x8, 1/2" foam panel to act as my sacrificial layer. Lots of people do that. It might be a little bit easier to setup. You can throw a panel on top of some saw horses plus the foam and et voila, sacrificial table. kafkasgoldfish fucked around with this message at 17:26 on Oct 28, 2011 |
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Oct 28, 2011 17:18
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Guitarchitect posted:If I were to buy a cheapo circular saw and a decent blade, would it cause a tonne of splintering? A used circular saw from a yard sale for $5-10 and a cheap plywood blade for it will make very good cuts in plywood. Just use it to cut sheets down to rough size, then finish cutting accurate size on the table saw. I put my sheets down on 2x4s so both sides of the cut are supported and clamp a long straight-edge or level to the sheet to use as a rough cut guide.
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Oct 28, 2011 19:30
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I have a bunch of reclaimed redwood 2x6 lying around and I had the thought to resaw them in 1/2" lap siding for another project. I don't own a bandsaw but have been wanting one. Worth buying one for something like this you think?
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Oct 28, 2011 19:44
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dwoloz posted:I have a bunch of reclaimed redwood 2x6 lying around and I had the thought to resaw them in 1/2" lap siding for another project. I don't own a bandsaw but have been wanting one. Worth buying one for something like this you think? Depends, I'd say... if there's a place nearby where you can get some time on their tools (I found out my local mill lets you avail yourself of their joiners, planers, bandsaw and table saw at $90/hour) and do it efficiently, maybe you do that instead for a one-off job. OTOH, if you see yourself turning the bandsaw into a workhorse, go for it!  In my experience though, big lumber always needed to be cut on a serious 1"+ blade in order to rip it somewhat cleanly - assuming you're slicing the 2x6 into 3-1/2x6".
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Oct 29, 2011 00:23
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kafkasgoldfish posted:edit: I like the cut table. If I were to do it, I wouldn't make the rails run the full length of the table and I would make the stops taller. It seems kind of goofy to have to put spacers under the material to ensure everything is always 3/4" thick. Having stops that you can reference the back edge of the track against would ensure squareness without the rails necessarily being continuous along the full length of the table. Thanks, I'll definitely check out the Makita. I found out my local lumber yard will let you use their table/panel saws for cutting your stuff down to size, so I may do that more often than not - though not if their $90/hour charge is a minimum (I'm hoping for reasonable prices on 15mins of work). It'd be nice not to have to rent a pickup for every trip there. and I could use my own table saw mostly for dadoing and trimming. As it turns out a friend HAS a table saw but has never had anywhere to set it up, so we're setting it up in my shop in exchange for his use of it from time to time  (probably a lovely contractor saw, but one less thing to buy for now)With the foam panel, are you using like, pink insulation foam? How long does that last? I too would make taller stops - not sure what his rationale is for always propping it up.
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Oct 29, 2011 00:34
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Guitarchitect posted:Thanks, I'll definitely check out the Makita. I found out my local lumber yard will let you use their table/panel saws for cutting your stuff down to size, so I may do that more often than not - though not if their $90/hour charge is a minimum (I'm hoping for reasonable prices on 15mins of work). It'd be nice not to have to rent a pickup for every trip there. and I could use my own table saw mostly for dadoing and trimming. As it turns out a friend HAS a table saw but has never had anywhere to set it up, so we're setting it up in my shop in exchange for his use of it from time to time Yea, I'm referring to the pink insulation foam. I think it's holding up fine for what it is. Even after cutting up several panels it's in decent shape, withstanding the 1/8" deep grooves all over the place. It is what it is. Laying a panel on edge will dent it, crawling on it will dent it... I suppose the best reason to use it if you need a super lightweight sacrificial layer for an existing work surface. When I need to use the table for some other purpose I just throw the foam on top of a hanging storage rack. The sacrificial table posted before would take up a good bit of storage space and wouldn't exactly be light and that's where the foam is superior. Also, it cost 9 bucks. edit: the rationale for propping things up is to just address the design flaw of having the rails run the full length. Since they do that, the track won't be in contact with the work piece unless you prop it up. If it's not in contact, you'll have trouble accurately lining up your cuts, the track will sag... lots of obvious problems. kafkasgoldfish fucked around with this message at 02:01 on Oct 29, 2011 |
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Oct 29, 2011 01:59
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kafkasgoldfish posted:edit: the rationale for propping things up is to just address the design flaw of having the rails run the full length. Since they do that, the track won't be in contact with the work piece unless you prop it up. If it's not in contact, you'll have trouble accurately lining up your cuts, the track will sag... lots of obvious problems. Yeah, I knew that much - what I meant was I wasn't sure why he would make it so that he *has* to prop all his <3/4" stock up. like you say, it's because his rails are that height and they run the full length. my main guess would be that as a cabinet maker he most often works with 3/4" stock, so the odd time he works with 1/2" he just bumps it up.
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Oct 29, 2011 03:02
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So can anyone guess what I'm making?  
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Oct 29, 2011 06:24
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Circus Pies! posted:So can anyone guess what I'm making? Cask Tap Handle??
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Oct 29, 2011 12:48
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Some kind of hand game? Small ball hangs on a string through the center hole, you have to swing it up and get it to land in one of the holes topside.
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Oct 29, 2011 15:03
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Baby rattle?
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Oct 29, 2011 16:44
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Circus Pies! posted:So can anyone guess what I'm making?
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Oct 29, 2011 17:12
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Some manner of throttle handle? A propeller for an asymmetrical plane?
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Oct 29, 2011 21:25
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Reclining easy chair handle?
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Oct 29, 2011 22:11
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Ropemaking tool?
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Oct 29, 2011 22:19
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Ineffectual magnifying glass?
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Oct 29, 2011 22:36
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/\ /\ /\ That might be what it becomes if I gently caress it up. I am waiting for the poly to dry before I put it together, It's taking longer than I thought due to the drop in temperature. soon.
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Oct 29, 2011 22:57
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Ok, here we go... Researching for my small bow experiment lead me to bow slings (or arrow bows or whatever.) The idea is to shoot arrows from a sling shot.  I saw many moded sling shots with key rings, pvc pipe and whisker biscuits  added to stabilize the arrow. So I thought I would give it a shot and make my own. I haven't tried it out yet because the poly is still a little tacky and it's dark out but I'll have a trip report tomorrow. I also made a standard one for my Son to play with at his Mother's house.  Update: I need to re work the pouch to better hold the arrow. If anyone was wondering they are made out of red oak sandwiching aspen with Minwax "natural" stain and spray poly. Circus Pies! fucked around with this message at 05:31 on Oct 30, 2011 |
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Oct 30, 2011 03:24
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Traxxus posted:What should I use after staining to protect it from inevitable water drips? Just a few coats of minwax polycrilic good enough? I'm not familiar with that product but a few coats of varnish, poly or lacquer should do it. Traxxus posted:So the tank will be sitting on top of the frame, enclosed by a ~2" wall rising from the frame. Would this pose potential risks for water getting trapped and ruining anything Potential risk but I wouldn't worry too much, just mop up any spills. Traxxus posted:Also, need to protect the floor from scratches, was planning to hotglue a thin strip of carpet along the bottom frame, good idea? I was thinking it would help even out any imperfections in the floor as well. I will have extra plywood left over, would it be better to just use that? I wouldn't worry much about imperfections, 700lbs will flatten anything minor. If you have the carpet then I suppose it would be fine, I wouldn't go sliding it around as even carpet or felt can leave scuff marks, which I learned the hard way.
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Oct 30, 2011 08:08
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kafkasgoldfish posted:Having said that, I have a nice table saw so in my situation I find the Festool plunge saw is best for doing the crosscuts in the panels or rips cuts that are more than 28" or so my table saw can rip. I think Makita makes a track saw now too so that may be a cost effective alternative (the dewalt track saw is more or less the same $$ as the Festool). Alternatives are Mafell, Bosch and Metabo. The Mafell MT 55 is as expensive if not more than the Festool but of newer design with many more features. Bosch is releasing a plunge saw one of these days and it will probably compete with the best of them. Metabo has a nice circular saw/plunge crossover. It's not as tied to using a rail as the other plunge saws are. With the exception of DeWalt, you can get any brand and get a quality plunge saw. Look at prices. I think the Festool is too pricy given that the other brands have caught up and in some way surpassed it. It does fit very nicely with other Fes accessories though.
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Oct 30, 2011 13:35
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Iskariot posted:The Fes is a good saw, it's just a little dated at this point. The Makita does everything the Festool does at a slightly lower cost. The DeWalt is probably the worst of the plunge saws if various reviews are to be trusted. They do have one in 28V version though which is a nice niche. Got a link? Not that I don't believe you but my research ended up somewhere different. I'd like to know if I made a good investment or not. I did handle a Makita and wasn't impressed but the Bosch/Metabo/Mafell don't seem to be readily available in my market.
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Oct 30, 2011 19:11
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My first attempt at fan carving. Pretty rough but with practice I think I'll get a lot better at these. 
mds2 fucked around with this message at 20:23 on Oct 30, 2011 |
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Oct 30, 2011 20:19
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As someone who knows absolutely nothing about what is involved in fan carving that is loving amazing.
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Oct 30, 2011 22:07
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mds2 posted:My first attempt at fan carving. Pretty rough but with practice I think I'll get a lot better at these. Did you see the Woodwright's Shop episode where Roy's guest did something similar? If not, check it out, I'll look up the link where you can see old episodes.
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Oct 31, 2011 04:38
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MarshallX posted:Honestly, I just picked up the 540CFM Craftex and it's perfect for a shop like mine. You can't expect to have a full DC system for a small shop where you aren't working 7.5 hours per day. Pull the DC to the tool you are using and hook up. Are you talking about something like this? Seems pretty big, is it better than something dead simple like a shop vac? I know the CFM is much larger, I guess that helps pull in way more dust from the tool that it's hooked up to - is there anything that's a lot more... compact? Guitarchitect fucked around with this message at 04:58 on Oct 31, 2011 |
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Oct 31, 2011 04:55
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kafkasgoldfish posted:Got a link? Not that I don't believe you but my research ended up somewhere different. I'd like to know if I made a good investment or not. I did handle a Makita and wasn't impressed but the Bosch/Metabo/Mafell don't seem to be readily available in my market. http://www.bosch-professional.com/gb/en/ocs/tools/104655/27298/hand-held-circular-saws/gkt-55-gce/ http://service.mafell.de/index.php?IdTreeGroup=12968&IdProduct=22938 http://www.metabo.com/Plunge-Cut-and-Circular-Saw-KSE-55-Vario-Plus.31177.0.html
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Oct 31, 2011 12:00
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Guitarchitect posted:Are you talking about something like this? Seems pretty big, is it better than something dead simple like a shop vac? I know the CFM is much larger, I guess that helps pull in way more dust from the tool that it's hooked up to - is there anything that's a lot more... compact? There's a big difference between a dust collector and a shop vac. The shop vac is meant to have high suction in a small area with low air flow whereas dust collectors have a large area, high air flow and atmospheric suction. By this I mean that if you put a shop vac tube into the middle of the air and throw a bunch of sawdust, it's not going to pick up much of it. If you do the same with a dust collector you can assume that most of that will disappear. If you are are worried about the stuff that sits on the ground, get a shop vac and clean your shop daily. If you are worried about the stuff in the air (that is not at all good for you), get a dust collector. The DC you linked is only 4' tall, 2' long and 18" wide.
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Oct 31, 2011 13:48
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