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Arquinsiel posted:Doesn't the German end up with two armies in that scenario? Just a pair of the HQs really. Everything else can be used in one list or the other. 6 stugs and 4 paks is a good German core, along with all the infantry. In fact, that starter box is basically the cheapest way to get battlefront Shermans even if you get only $20 selling the rest of the box. PSC's still cheaper and better quality, though.
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Dec 17, 2012 04:27
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Just in case you really need this.
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Dec 17, 2012 15:29
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I don't really need it, but I do need it... You'll end up with four platoons of infantry too, it'd be a rather huge infantry company really.
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Dec 17, 2012 15:54
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Springfield Fatts posted:Just wanted to say thanks for the FoW info. I think we'll get the open fire set because it seems like a hell of a deal and go from there. I haven't got the Open Fire set but haven't there been issues with the plastics (namely the tanks and the Pak40s)?
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Dec 18, 2012 15:26
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Arquinsiel posted:I don't really need it, but I do need it... You can sub in some of the infantry as pioneers/recon so you can still make use of them.
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Dec 18, 2012 15:27
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I played a little bit of Force on Force a while ago and got diverted onto other things (including making terrain and painting up an army ...). Returning to it recently, I started doing a full sweep of the rules. Wanted to get it under my belt so I could teach a friend. First: that rulebook isn't great. Things are in a strange sort of order. I'd forgotten just how much I'd learnt from the quickstart rules and not from the rulebook. Tomorrow's War is much better written. Second: a few questions popped up - made all the more confusing when I google for answers and find conflicting replies. So: Reaction tests use a single die, right? And it's an opposed roll. Whoever succeeds (4+) and gets the higher number wins? And modifiers just add to or subtract from the value on the rolled die? Declaring actions and reactions: how do people handle this? The book writes it as the Initiative player declaring the action, then the Non-initiative declares reactions, then the actual turn is carried out. Whereas, a video I watched showed the Initiative player just carrying out their move and the NUI interrupting for reactions. Fire: the attacker rolls Firepower, the defender rolls Defense. Fine. But what happens next? I've sen two variants: - the defender chooses and places dice against the the attackers in order to equal or beat them. (The correct way from what I read in the rules?) - The attacker and defender rank their dice high to low and compare compare the pairs. Which is simpler, but is not the same thing. Finally, back to a situation someone posed to me: A and B are not line of sight of each other. A has initiative and announces that it will emerge from cover and move into the open where it will fire at B. B reacts by saying it will fire at A the moment it comes visible. So how does this play out: - A starts moving into the open. B fires on A. A can exchange fire, for a modifier on later action. - A reaches its position and fires on B. B can exchange fire, but as it has already fired this turn, suffers a modifier.
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Dec 18, 2012 17:40
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outlier posted:I played a little bit of Force on Force a while ago and got diverted onto other things (including making terrain and painting up an army ...). Returning to it recently, I started doing a full sweep of the rules. Wanted to get it under my belt so I could teach a friend. outlier posted:Reaction tests use a single die, right? And it's an opposed roll. Whoever succeeds (4+) and gets the higher number wins? And modifiers just add to or subtract from the value on the rolled die? outlier posted:Declaring actions and reactions: how do people handle this? The book writes it as the Initiative player declaring the action, then the Non-initiative declares reactions, then the actual turn is carried out. Whereas, a video I watched showed the Initiative player just carrying out their move and the NUI interrupting for reactions. outlier posted:Fire: the attacker rolls Firepower, the defender rolls Defense. Fine. But what happens next? I've sen two variants: outlier posted:Finally, back to a situation someone posed to me: A and B are not line of sight of each other. A has initiative and announces that it will emerge from cover and move into the open where it will fire at B. B reacts by saying it will fire at A the moment it comes visible. So how does this play out:
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Dec 18, 2012 23:01
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Arquinsiel posted:(Reactions rolls as opposed checks) I'm relieved. I saw an "instructional video" in which someone was just making a check for the Reactor to see if they interrupt. Made me wonder how I could have so badly misunderstood things. quote:In practice it's not really all that relevant, since usually the declaration of the action will allow the reacting units to plan their move. It's only really a niche case that one unit will react with fire and wipe out the active unit before it's move gives the second reacting unit LoS to fire. You have a point. The book gets so pinheaded about the order of resolution, I was wondering what the issue was. I expect in practice you can play fairly fast and loose with the exact way it's done and it would make little difference. quote:(Firing) This is correct. The other way would result in the dice shift being even more dramatic and silly. Of course. I was wondering why this opposed roll and the matching is done so differently to the others but you're right: d10s would horribly own d6s. I posted:Finally, back to a situation someone posed to me: A and B are not line of sight of each other. A has initiative and announces that it will emerge from cover and move into the open where it will fire at B. B reacts by saying it will fire at A the moment it comes visible. So how does this play out: You posted:Neither. A moves, and when it gets into LoS with B the round of fire happens. You already know what the action will be so you just declare the reaction to be "these dudes will fire when they get LoS" and roll the reaction test. The round of fire happens as normal then, since it's just one action-reaction pair. I hadn't actually meant my two options as choices, but as my impression that two exchanges of fire would take place. So only one exchange would occur? If it's not already clear, A has announced it is firing from a different position to where it gets fired upon by B. Do you resolve at the point B wants to fire or where A wants to fire?
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Dec 19, 2012 13:05
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The order of resolution only really matters when multiple units are reacting or in the obvious case of casualties. Whoever wins the reaction roll acts when they want to. You're looking for nuance where none exists dude.
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Dec 19, 2012 13:58
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So having done all this prep work for my Muskets & Tomahawks game today (I'll take pictures!), I started thinking about my other wargaming friend and how much he loves the ACW (being from South Carolina and all). Are there any similar rulesets around for skirmish-level ACW? I know TFL has The Couldn't Hit an Elephant, but I wasn't sure if they'd work for what I want (since it says it's for Divisional or Corps level games).
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Dec 25, 2012 17:26
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Xposting from the miniatures thread. Apparently you need 200 shades of green to paint a tiny guy.    The most fun part is definitely the landscaping. Tiny plants and grasses are worth every e-cent.
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Dec 25, 2012 18:02
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Colonial Air Force posted:So having done all this prep work for my Muskets & Tomahawks game today (I'll take pictures!), I started thinking about my other wargaming friend and how much he loves the ACW (being from South Carolina and all). Terrible Sharp Sword by TFL. http://toofatlardies.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=76 Its based on Sharpe Practice which is a fun skirmish game for between 20 and 100 minis. Serotonin fucked around with this message at 12:44 on Dec 26, 2012 |
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Dec 25, 2012 21:36
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Those look like excellent rules, thanks. Now that I've read through M&T a bunch (we didn't end up playing yesterday, but I'll play Sunday), I think I want to sell my 10mm AWI to fund a 28mm replacement. The AWI has very few large battles, and the skirmishes just seem way more fun. Plus it isn't like Black Powder can't be used with 28mm (it was written for it, after all).
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Dec 26, 2012 15:24
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Kegslayer posted:I haven't got the Open Fire set but haven't there been issues with the plastics (namely the tanks and the Pak40s)? The Pak40's are a little fragile and its easy to break them when removing from the sprue unless you are very careful. I suggest using a knife rather than a set of clippers. The Shermans won't fit together properly without a bit of filing, and then probably a bit of green stuff in a few places. Not a huge deal compared to cleaning up mold lines and other defects on your typical Resin and metal model. I had no complaints about the Stugs, which only have one problematic bit that is trivial to correct with some filing. In the two sets I bought I had a 4 or so infantry figures that had not been molded correctly, and a few broken rifles right out of the box.
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Dec 27, 2012 00:54
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So I finally got around to unpacking the rest of my models, including my Langton ships. But none of them are marks, and Rod doesn't have pictures on his website (surprise!). So now I have no idea what's what. I mean I can count the guns, obviously, and make good guesses, but some kind of identification guide or some photos would've been fuckin' helpful.
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Dec 29, 2012 03:01
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Colonial Air Force posted:So I finally got around to unpacking the rest of my models, including my Langton ships. I think Napoleonic ships is one of those niches that are so obscure that you are pretty much expected to know the different ships at a glance, even before picking it up. Do you still have the order saved somewhere? I bought one of the starter packs, and pretty much deduced which was which by sorting out the largest ship, the smallest ship, and so on.
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Dec 29, 2012 03:42
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lilljonas posted:I think Napoleonic ships is one of those niches that are so obscure that you are pretty much expected to know the different ships at a glance, even before picking it up. Yeah, I have the orders, since I bought them online. Like I said, I can just count the guns and do my best, but photos would have helped.
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Dec 29, 2012 13:58
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Email Rod, hes awesome. I spent ages chatting to him at a show and when I bought my ships from him he took ages explaining everything to me in person. Im sure he would respond to an email.
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Dec 29, 2012 14:19
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Serotonin posted:Email Rod, hes awesome. I spent ages chatting to him at a show and when I bought my ships from him he took ages explaining everything to me in person. Im sure he would respond to an email. This is true, I sent an e-mail about which bases would be appropriate for my starter set, and he sent a long and very informative response. Dude is really helpful, and the ships turned out great once painted:   Swooosh, boom boom!
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Dec 29, 2012 14:52
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I counted guns and then went through my orders and got it all sorted. Interestingly, I have two British 74s with 82 guns, but that's not really uncommon for British ships. :p Now to finish painting them up and assembling them. Muskets & Tomahawks: Once again, the world has conspired against me getting to play this. We got hit with a big winter storm, so my friend couldn't come over (the street I live on wasn't plowed until late afternoon). Someday. Someday.
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Dec 31, 2012 02:19
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Nature abhors our tiny mans
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Dec 31, 2012 02:23
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Women too
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Dec 31, 2012 04:12
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Nature abhors women? That'd explain a lot about my social life 
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Dec 31, 2012 05:26
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This is pretty great for something like Saga: http://www.terragenesis.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=8385
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Jan 2, 2013 18:50
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FoW Questions (I got a random box of U.S. Rifle Platoon from a friend who had planned to start playing but never did so yay free stuff) What do you guys use, in terms of basing, to bridge the gap between the models base and the plastic base provided?
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Jan 3, 2013 15:42
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Rikthor posted:FoW Questions (I got a random box of U.S. Rifle Platoon from a friend who had planned to start playing but never did so yay free stuff) Most people seem to use spackle. The other option is to buy Battlefront's newer bases: http://www.flamesofwar.com/hobby.aspx?art_id=2654
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Jan 3, 2013 15:59
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I used Milliput Super Fine or Brown Stuff. Green Stuff will probably also do the trick. You could use other quick setting epoxy putties as well if you're so inclined.
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Jan 3, 2013 16:42
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I use white glue mixed with modeling sand then paint heavily with brown and highlight with a lighter brown.
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Jan 3, 2013 17:33
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Vallejo Texture pastes. They come in a variety of grit sizes and are really easy to base FoW with
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Jan 4, 2013 01:38
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Liquitex resin sand is what I use, you can get it at stores like Hobby lobby.
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Jan 4, 2013 05:57
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Picked up Dux Bellorum at the weekend. A bit of a spur of the moment thing, although Dark Ages/Arthurian is a interest of mine. http://www.ospreypublishing.com/store/Dux-Bellorum-%E2%80%93-Arthurian-Wargaming-Rules-AD367%E2%80%93793_9781849086806 (cheaper on Amazon) Wasn't expecting much but sort of very impressed after a first read through. Aimed at larger actions than a skirmish game like Saga, and obviously being Arthurian its a few 100 years prior to that. Has all the ingredients I like in a game- lots of dice, a command mechanic (no godlike absolute control over all your troops), element basing, fast play and no casualty removal. Points based army lists, but hey we cant have everything huh?  It has an interesting mechanic based around leadership points. Your force will have between 6 and 10 leadership points (LPs)(dependent on how many you bought in your army list) that you spend each turn. You allocate up to 3 LPs per unit or group (units of the same sort touching each other in a line formation) and these can be spent to do a variety of things like cancelling out hits your units take, spending them to alter Bravery rolls (the roll you make to activate a unit- you can later the rolls up or down so in the case of warriors with impetuous charges its a good way of reining them in), boost the number of attacks in combat, or use them in a bidding war (your opponent can spend their own LPs to try and stop you) to interrupt your opponents move sequence and move your unit instead. It seems a good simple way of simulating the heroic nature of a charismatic warlord of this period influencing the forces around you. Ive been deliberating on what scale to do this, but after much thought looks like I will do it in 28mm, and start with 4 men to a unit to start with, and then up that to 8 in time. The games measurement mechanic is done in base widths, so it scales to any scale miniature or size of force. Most infantry units move 2 base widths, so I will do my guys on a 10cm frontage, meaning that units have a 20cm move a turn which feels reasonable for a 6x4 board. Standard game is 32 points (gently caress knows why) and that is about 6 to 12 units depending on troop quality/type. Anyway for Ł8 for a complete set of rules, everything you need in 1 book, you cant say fairer than that.
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Jan 7, 2013 22:57
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Seconing Serotonin's review. I grabbed it from Amazon myself on a whim having seen it mentioned in WI and it's basically DBA++ focused on Arthurian era combat. Looks like it'll be very fun and if you have relevant era armies based up for DBX games (like I sort of do) it'll be easy to get playing.
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Jan 8, 2013 00:54
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Finally got to play Muskets & Tomahawks today! I took pics, and I'll write up a full battle report in a while, but my first impressions are that this game kicks rear end.
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Jan 12, 2013 22:34
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Post it!!!!
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Jan 14, 2013 17:44
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I got in two games of Bolt Action, which actually played better than I thought, though 330 point games tend to swing on the dice fairly hard. I had a lot of fun with it.
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Jan 14, 2013 18:16
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Has anyone tried Tomorrow's War? Not a historical per se, sure, but is there anything in that book that makes it worth purchasing if I have Force on Force?
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Jan 16, 2013 00:59
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A friend bought it so I flipped through the book while they were playing it. There are a few things that are significantly different in there but most of them are the kind of thing that'd be common sense in a hi-tech sci-fi skirmish game. If you think "it'd be cool if you could..." then they probably did too, and fit it into the FoF paradigm. Usually this is how you would expect them to do it, so you can probably extrapolate all the differences by reading FoF properly. That said, it's a GORGEOUS book and playing "guess the source of THIS rip off faction" is fun.
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Jan 16, 2013 13:20
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We very briefly discussed it earlier as a way to play X-COM: The Tabletop Game. If you get it, let us know how it works out.
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Jan 16, 2013 15:08
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Sounds tempting. I'm sure I'll get the Tomorrow's War book some day. Hopefully after I've read FOF. X-posting(painting thread) these historical guys I've recently finished. Finished a couple of German MG teams and a Sherman.        
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Jan 18, 2013 00:18
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| # ? May 30, 2024 15:16 |
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So we played our first game of Muskets and Tomahawks last night. Sadly no pictures as we don't have the minis painted yet (Brent just got his last week and I am lazy). I have to say, the game was very fun, and definitely builds a good story as the games goes along (something I am pretty sure the creators envisioned). We played 200 points, My All Canadian Syrupy Bastards list: Canadian Officer - Irregular - Unpredictable and Backstabber traits, musket and thrown weapon 2 x 6 Canadian Militia - Irregular - muskets and tomahawks, scouts 4 Indians, rifles 5 local militia, inhabitants with rifles and if I remember correctly Brent's British Buffoons were: British Irregular Officer - Musket, Elite, Unpredictable and Eagle Eye traits 2 x 5 Rogers Rangers, Irregular, Elite, muskets 5 Indians, rifles, Auxiliaries The Brits rolled Raid as their mission, and the Brit Officer's personal goal was to kill more people than my officer We fine Canadian Gentlemen of the Syrupy persuasion rolled the Scout mission, and my outstanding officer was actually a usurper imposter, and therefore his personal goal was to never be within 4" of a friendly unit (less they discover his real identity) Quick rundown: Raid = burn down the building of the village on the table, at 200 pts there are 2 building that must be burnt (rules for burning buildings in the book) Scout = have someone make it to and live through a turn in each table quarter, then get off your deployment board edge with at least 1/3 of your force The card activation system builds a nice tension/fog of war, and many a time it made for big moments in what would happen to our plan, would i get to activate and get out of sight before they activate and fire, do i fore now at a worst modifier, or take up a better firing position, hoping my card comes up again before theirs. Very fun and engaging. Hope to get some painting done soon and snap some pictures at our next game.
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Jan 18, 2013 00:52
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