|
ok whew, i was honestly confused at first. i'm not a mechanic even though i managed to pull the engine completely apart by myself with minimal to no damage. The stock pistons are fine for stock tuned vehicles, which this is. had zero ringland or ring issues on the actual pistons themselved, they looked pretty damned good for the 100k lifespan of this engine, and looked piston shaped with no ring land issues. also none of the anything was sorted by cylinder. so all the wrist pins cylinders and rods are just in a giant gay pile. but this simple statement of your correction lets me know what i should be doing to move forward with the rebuild process. loving awesome!
|
#
?
Dec 9, 2020 13:31
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 26, 2024 08:27 |
|
|
i own every Bionicle posted:Nevermind it has broken ringlands how does it have broken ringlands if it runs fine and is stock? a compression test doesn't tell you what is borked it just says there is a problem in a specific spot, that would have minimal to no effects on the clutch/transmission system that probably needs replaced or strongly fingered. two seperate parts of the over all system in my eyes by no means is this a why aren't you buying it. if its unfit then noone needs another parts car in their inventory, is a legitimate question on how this was determined. I'm still learning is all. Munkeylord fucked around with this message at 13:45 on Dec 9, 2020 |
|
#
?
Dec 9, 2020 13:40
|
|
|
Munkeylord posted:how does it have broken ringlands if it runs fine and is stock? a compression test doesn't tell you what is borked it just says there is a problem in a specific spot, that would have minimal to no effects on the clutch/transmission system that probably needs replaced or strongly fingered. two seperate parts of the over all system in my eyes So after a first test drive that felt promising minus the clutch I picked it up yesterday, took it to my shop and put it on my lift to look at it more closely. On the drive over I figured out that the issue with the clutch is just that it’s worn pretty badly and needs to be replaced. The engagement point is high which is why it’s hard to modulate. It doesn’t slip so it would have lasted through the winter to when it would have been convenient to change it. The car looked passable underneath, some rust in a few areas but not too bad. But I checked the fluids and it was waaaaaaay the gently caress down on oil with the last change marked on the windshield sticker at 2900 miles ago. The dipstick was loving dry until I put two quarts in. There was some oiliness on the exhaust as well. Zero oil leaks on the engine, even the valve cover gaskets, so it’s not going there. So it is either using a quart of oil every thousand miles and the guy didn’t check it or he did check it and it uses more and he forgot or the oil change place only half filled it. Yeah, I don’t know for sure what caused such a low oil level. Maybe the pistons are fine and it’s something else. But I didn’t have time at that moment to do a compression and leakdown test, and the car was priced what I would consider the upper end of fair if it had no real issues, so the clutch and low oil level were enough to make me walk.
|
|
#
?
Dec 9, 2020 15:57
|
|
|
Lots of stock 2.5 turbos break ringlands. In many of those cases you don't even notice anything other than it goes through a little oil. But subaru's allowable consumption is a huge and ridiculous amount, probably so they can say "we're not going to do a leakdown or compression check because going through a quart every 1000 miles is totally normal!" And then a few years later when you start throwing misfire codes and burning even more oil, oh sorry it's out of warranty.
|
|
#
?
Dec 9, 2020 17:49
|
|
|
One of the reasons why I got rid of my '11 WRX is in the last year of ownership oil consumption went up dramatically. For most of the time I owned it, it consumed a non-measurable amount of oil between changes. Then suddenly it started consuming a quart every 3k miles or so. I took that as a warning that something wasn't quite right in ringland and made it someone else's problem.
|
|
#
?
Dec 9, 2020 17:54
|
|
|
My '10 Outback 3.6 H6 exhaust is smelling a bit gassy esp. after startup on cooler mornings. What do?
|
|
#
?
Dec 9, 2020 23:22
|
|
|
Wasabi the J posted:My '10 Outback 3.6 H6 exhaust is smelling a bit gassy esp. after startup on cooler mornings. Smells like gasoline? Any CEL or codes? Does it run the same? If it runs rough for a minute but then clears up it could be a leaky injector, which should be fixed as unburnt fuel in the cylinders will wash oil off of the cylinder walls and can lead to lots of wear/scoring, especially on a boxer. It will also cause the oil to smell like gas. If it’s a catalytic converter it should throw a CEL/code. If it’s an exhaust leak pre-cat you should hear it.
|
|
#
?
Dec 10, 2020 21:58
|
|
|
I was expecting broken ringlands when I took mine apart. It was consuming about a quart a week, more so if I hit it hard. But there weren't any when I tore the engine apart, there was some minor scratches in the cylinders. Maybe a combination of head gaskets and other various issues boxer engines have and such. There was one scratch that was deep enough from me to run my finger nail across and stop it. It definitely looks like at one point in its life it was running dry on oil from all the other evidence shown from the crank. But from the way I bought it till at about 115k it ran fine and had power minus the oil consumption issue with the occasional I can't find the throttle and would go into limp mode or hold at 2k rpm while going 90 mph down the highway. Which is probably a grounding/wiring issue. But I thought it threw a rod. If I had replaced the timing belt it would still be running strongly, guzzling oil though. I havent taken the heads in yet to get inspected or cleaned up, I do imagine they also contributed. With some of the evidence in the cylinders. I fear taking the valves out! The intake and everything past the bpv has oil coating or oil pools where it could pool up. I bought this sti with 44k on it in 2016. Owner said it sat in his garage for 6 years never started. I put like almost 70k on it in 3 years. probably rotted out somewhere along the line as it is an 05 and completely stock (allegedly). But grateful I bought the car, as I was never mechanically inclined before I'm not ready to give up the car at all as it's very fun to drive. And I'm extremely curious as to how any why it managed to end up engine less in my driveway. P.s. I forgot to mention that every single banjo bolt oil screen was completely intact and free of debris, so there wasnt anything that solidly ran through the engine to do what it did imo. But maybe it is just what mine did? I am considering iron sleeves just to give the cylinders some extra strength from wear and tear. But adiabatic and the rest of you were right lmao. Misery and despair! Munkeylord fucked around with this message at 11:44 on Dec 11, 2020 |
|
#
?
Dec 11, 2020 11:27
|
|
|
i own every Bionicle posted:Smells like gasoline? Any CEL or codes? Does it run the same? If it runs rough for a minute but then clears up it could be a leaky injector, which should be fixed as unburnt fuel in the cylinders will wash oil off of the cylinder walls and can lead to lots of wear/scoring, especially on a boxer. It will also cause the oil to smell like gas. No codes. Smells kind of like oil and gas mixed. Runs really well, idle has always been a little rumbly but I know the trans mounts are worn out and doesn't happen when in motion.
|
|
#
?
Dec 12, 2020 05:58
|
|
|
The gas smell in the morning could be the rich idle used to warm up the catalytic converter for emissions purposes. You smell it more when it's cold because the cat works less in colder temps. Happened to my WRX in cold mornings before I changed the exhaust and got a tune. Now I just smell gas all the time!
|
|
#
?
Dec 12, 2020 16:17
|
|
|
Wasabi the J posted:No codes. Smells kind of like oil and gas mixed. Runs really well, idle has always been a little rumbly but I know the trans mounts are worn out and doesn't happen when in motion. car is fine my fellow breathren. give it a cold start and release the fumes. MMMMMMMMM you owe me 256 mb of butts
|
|
#
?
Dec 13, 2020 14:04
|
|
|
They were confiscated by ice t and now I just stream butts Fuckin civil forfeiture
|
|
#
?
Dec 13, 2020 18:01
|
|
|
Back in October my WRX had the throw out bearing replaced as it fell under the TSB that was open for the squeaking clutch. Two months later and the squeak is starting to come back a little bit. Is this a case of usual Subaru weird noises or something more severe? I haven't exactly been putting on miles since the replacement and not been driving much different than before. Am I clutching in too hard and messing it up or something? I feel like a car on stock power shouldn't be running into these sort of weird issues and am tempted to see what they'd give me to buy it back.
|
|
#
?
Dec 13, 2020 23:25
|
|
|
I feel like I need someone to talk me down from going to an AEM Infinity 506 ECU on my 04 wrx wagon build. 2004 EJ257 (single AVCS) with Mahle pistons, 3MI M300 Rods, EFR 6758 on a full STI driveline. I dont have access to E85 so Im planning on trying to stay some what conservative and targeting 350-400whp but Id really like to be able to use the AVCS to spread out that powerband a little. I havent found any good solutions. From my research its either standalone or re wire the majority of the car, and get a poo poo load of STI parts, like ECU, immobilizer, engine harness, body harness, gauges, and maybe more. The AEM would come from a friend who's an AEM dealer/subaru shop so id be around a grand deep into it with a patch harness. Goals for the car are just to be a fun weekend car with maybe occasional road trips.
|
|
#
?
Dec 17, 2020 15:20
|
|
|
Sadi posted:I feel like I need someone to talk me down from going to an AEM Infinity 506 ECU on my 04 wrx wagon build. Could you use a JDM EJ205 ECU from 01-04 and add the wiring with an iWire kit? Swapping a Forester XT ECU is pretty much the same hassle as STI right? In any case it sounds like a cool car and project so keep us updated.
|
|
#
?
Dec 17, 2020 19:25
|
|
|
Anyone have any input on low profile mud flaps, as well as window vent covers for a 2016 WRX? I was looking at these Rally Armor flaps, and wondering if the Subaru OEM window vents are the best ones out there. It doesn't seem like Lund/AVS even makes any for the car. http://www.rallyarmor.com/product_info.php/urethane-mud-flaps-2015-subaru-wrx-sti-black-mud-flap-red-logo-p-1078
|
|
#
?
Dec 18, 2020 03:04
|
|
|
bull3964 posted:One of the reasons why I got rid of my '11 WRX is in the last year of ownership oil consumption went up dramatically. For most of the time I owned it, it consumed a non-measurable amount of oil between changes. Then suddenly it started consuming a quart every 3k miles or so. I took that as a warning that something wasn't quite right in ringland and made it someone else's problem. My car has been doing that for the past 10k miles, it's fine. (countdown until I get stranded in the middle of nowhere, eastern plains, CO).
|
|
#
?
Dec 20, 2020 05:29
|
|
|
Grandmas 06 forester 2.5 is apparently leaking oil and coolant from the head-gasket, had a look and couldn't find any milkshake. She is extremely old and hardly drives anywhere (well my uncle drives her but he takes the train). Given less than frequent use would it be worth immediately getting an engine put in at the dealer cost of 5kaud or is it something that can be monitored and taken care of at a later date. It is also just come due for a timing belt, would the engine in that car be interference? i would extremely like the car to not explode because i have dibs on it as a daily because it is goddamn mint and has under 100 thousand ks on it also: can i get a recommendation for a good subaru mechanic in melbourne australia?
|
|
#
?
Dec 25, 2020 17:57
|
|
|
I really want to get a BRZ but it's too expensive new and I'm afraid to buy a used one because I just figure that the previous owner probably thrashed it. Is this true or not? I feel like a knucklehead could ruin one of those in 30k miles pretty easily.
|
|
#
?
Dec 25, 2020 19:31
|
|
|
64bit_Dophins posted:I really want to get a BRZ but it's too expensive new and I'm afraid to buy a used one because I just figure that the previous owner probably thrashed it. I have looked for one for a little bit and came to the conclusion that it’s best to find a really nice one and pay the extra for it. There seems to be a price floor for them so that no matter how beat they are they will always bring at least 10-12k as long as the title is clean. Half the car still brings 75% of the money. With that said the new version is coming out so there may be some deals on the old one, both new and used, so it makes a lot of sense to wait for it.
|
|
#
?
Dec 25, 2020 21:11
|
|
|
big dong wanter posted:Grandmas 06 forester 2.5 is apparently leaking oil and coolant from the head-gasket, had a look and couldn't find any milkshake. She is extremely old and hardly drives anywhere (well my uncle drives her but he takes the train). Given less than frequent use would it be worth immediately getting an engine put in at the dealer cost of 5kaud or is it something that can be monitored and taken care of at a later date. It is also just come due for a timing belt, would the engine in that car be interference? i would extremely like the car to not explode because i have dibs on it as a daily because it is goddamn mint and has under 100 thousand ks on it 5k is cheaper than what I would have thought... that includes labour? I got recommended Cromwood Auto Service by a Subaru friend. I only got a ppi done but they did a very thorough job. I’d go back but they are pretty far from me. The dealership in essendon has been good sometimes and horrible to deal with at others. If you need parts the docklands dealership have an eBay store with cheaper pricing sometimes. If you’re inner or northern suburbs I’d be happy to help out a fellow goon. I just did the timing belt on my 2.5l 05 Impreza with the gracious help from others in this thread and it’s been working great. Granite Octopus fucked around with this message at 21:17 on Dec 26, 2020 |
|
#
?
Dec 26, 2020 21:13
|
|
|
EZ30 2005 Outback CEL just came on, steady not blinking Engine doesn't seem to be in limp mode, drives normal Traction control (steady light) and cruise control (blinking) forced off No AWD light on though Idles as before, low and steady Doesn't smell of fuel I'm planning to get a proper code reader but for now, I read there was a diagnostic mode inbuilt? quote:How to Read Diagnostic Trouble Codes on 2005 thru 2009 Subaru Legacy and Outback Mine isn't a manual. I can't get the above procedure to work though. Any tips? simplefish fucked around with this message at 06:05 on Dec 27, 2020 |
|
#
?
Dec 27, 2020 05:59
|
|
|
simplefish posted:EZ30 Pretty much what I think you would be expecting to hear - A ODB2 scanner and save the hassle because reading codes off the dash is a PITA IF it works at all. I'm not aware of any special set of cheat codes for an auto. Whats your location? I might know someone close with one
|
|
#
?
Dec 27, 2020 08:54
|
|
|
Thanks, that's a kind offer but I've been meaning to get a proper scan tool for a while. I have a bluetooth OBD2 dongle which was good enough to see how useful it can be to read codes. The phone I paired with it is dead now and I'm done farting about with free apps. And if I'm gonna pay for an app, I'll just as well pay for the real thing It was more about getting the dash codes to show because when something should work and doesn't I always wanna find out why.
|
|
#
?
Dec 27, 2020 09:03
|
|
|
64bit_Dophins posted:I really want to get a BRZ but it's too expensive new and I'm afraid to buy a used one because I just figure that the previous owner probably thrashed it. I bought a 2017 with 30,000 km on it and it's been pretty much fine. Needed new tires because the previous owner did a bunch of serious burnouts before trading it in for a Jaguar F-Type, but other than that, great condition.
|
|
#
?
Dec 27, 2020 09:06
|
|
|
i own every Bionicle posted:I have looked for one for a little bit and came to the conclusion that it’s best to find a really nice one and pay the extra for it. There seems to be a price floor for them so that no matter how beat they are they will always bring at least 10-12k as long as the title is clean. Half the car still brings 75% of the money. Kazinsal posted:I bought a 2017 with 30,000 km on it and it's been pretty much fine. Needed new tires because the previous owner did a bunch of serious burnouts before trading it in for a Jaguar F-Type, but other than that, great condition. Yeah my plan was to find one that was more "pre-owned" than "used". I feel like 30k miles would be the most I would be willing to go with a high compression motor like that. I'm glad to hear that you had a good experience buying one used. I for sure would never pay over 25k for one of these honestly. I just think the car is super overpriced new for what it is.
|
|
#
?
Dec 28, 2020 02:04
|
|
|
Everything new is overpriced for what it is. See: every pickup truck and SUV. Lol @ $40k 2 door jeep wranglers that come from the factory under recall.
|
|
#
?
Dec 28, 2020 02:31
|
|
|
CRUSTY MINGE posted:Everything new is overpriced for what it is. The funny thing is, that's a ridiculously cheap price where I'm from and you'd be mad not to spring for an offer like that if you saw it, because they'd never run it again
|
|
#
?
Dec 28, 2020 02:36
|
|
|
I remember when you could buy a base model 6cyl for like, $14k new. Ah the 90s/00s. poo poo is just bloat now. And it's Chrysler so you know it will come with steering problems, electrical gremlins, and the cheapest possible materials for an interior at a high end leather price. Also no straight 6 for like, 15 years now. People buying those lumps of poo poo deserve what they overpay for. But I'm sure they say the similar things when a Subaru lets a head gasket go in front of them.
|
|
#
?
Dec 28, 2020 02:41
|
|
|
Where I live in Georgia, used cars are super overpriced too. I figure it's because a lot of people up north come down here to buy used cars, but every used car I see seems to be grossly overpriced.
|
|
#
?
Dec 28, 2020 02:51
|
|
|
Yeah, same out here out west. It's why I bought a hail damaged Outback outright, thinking I got a good deal, then having to replace the engine. Still came out cheaper than buying a non-hail damaged one with a manual, those fuckers are scarce after about 2010. I don't care that it looks golf ball-ish, I have the title, gently caress making car payments ever again.
|
|
#
?
Dec 28, 2020 03:02
|
|
|
CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:Pretty much what I think you would be expecting to hear - A ODB2 scanner and save the hassle because reading codes off the dash is a PITA IF it works at all. I'm not aware of any special set of cheat codes for an auto. Solved it! In behind the dash by the fuse panel there are 2 white plugs (one designed to lock into another), ome with a pale green wire one with a black and yellow wire. For future reference, I have a JDM import. Dashboard tells me P0051 Which is an 02 sensor Which is funny because I had the same code this exact time last year on a different car (Toyota V6) That car went into limp mode and driving (throttle response and idle) was definitely affected. My Outback runs fine. Is clearing the codes just a case of disconnecting the battery for a bit? There are C codes in the diagnostic screen as well (I have no C codes) - are they different to clear? simplefish fucked around with this message at 04:22 on Dec 28, 2020 |
|
#
?
Dec 28, 2020 04:16
|
|
|
Disconnected the battery for 30 mins Reconnected Turned on but not engine start Waited for sweep and lights and noises to settle CEL cleared Engine on CEL instantly back Just letting it relearn idle now It's gonna need a new O2 sensor, right? Is it doing any harm driving without one until then? I'm several hundred miles away from home and tools.
|
|
#
?
Dec 28, 2020 20:12
|
|
|
It might cause some fluctuation in the air-fuel ratio, but should be fine to drive for a while. I know I've ignored them entirely in the past on old Ford pickups and maybe got 1mpg worse mileage. At some point everyone started using multiple O2 sensors. Before and after cat is common. Simple open end wrench should get it off but expect them to be seized with rust. You can try cleaning and reinstalling it, but O2 sensors aren't prohibitively expensive or difficult to change, so swapping however many there are at once isn't a terrible idea. Use anti-seize, in case you ever need to remove them again. Also check the wiring, could just have a tear in some insulation grounding out somewhere, throwing the code. They usually read around 450 mV iirc, so anything too far from that will cause the code. CRUSTY MINGE fucked around with this message at 20:28 on Dec 28, 2020 |
|
#
?
Dec 28, 2020 20:24
|
|
|
Yeah I checked the mileage with the dash display, looks fine. Sounds like it's running normal too. - or was before the relearn at least. Idles fine but haven't test driven it. Yeah there's a before and after. Head gasket went a while ago so I'm guessing the coolant in the exhaust fouled the sensor. There's no point in checking the fuse if the other O2 sensor codes aren't showing, right?
|
|
#
?
Dec 28, 2020 21:33
|
|
|
The engine will run rich as it goes back to default maps in the worst case. It shouldnt overfuel in such a way that it washes oil off the bores - but your fuel economy will noticably worsen. If it's going over/undervoltage the ECU should work with what it's got -but if it's really unhappy it'll just fall back to the default maps which are rich and I think the timing is dropped back to safeguard as well.
|
|
#
?
Dec 28, 2020 23:25
|
|
|
Ah right, thanks guys Yeah I've taken it for a test drive now, seems the same as before really, doesn't smell of fuel or anything (which it does on cold morning starts - warm at the moment though) Pulling away from lights it might be a bit weak? But then I'm being really gentle with it so probably just that. I've looked up O2 sensor swaps on this and it seems much easier than the Toyota 1MZFE I did. Hopefully the sensor doesn't separate like last time and leave half of itself in the exhaust!
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2020 01:01
|
|
|
I'm in need of a roof rack for my 2009 WRX 5-door with hardpoints, and I need it to hold a rocketbox with skis. Looks like there's OEM subaru versions available for ~$150, or aftermarket Yakima/Thule systems for $500+. Is there any reason to go with the aftermarket option? Are the "OEM" parts I'm seeing actually no-name crap? It's enough of a cost difference to make me worry that the low-priced models are complete poo poo but old posts on other forums seem to have had OK results - if those same models are what's being sold today.
|
|
#
?
Jan 10, 2021 21:44
|
|
|
OEM are fine. They used to be made by Yakima, but switched to Thule at some point.
|
|
#
?
Jan 10, 2021 22:09
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 26, 2024 08:27 |
|
|
Rad, thanks!
|
|
#
?
Jan 10, 2021 22:18
|
|