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Ok Comboomer posted:sounds like what you need is a Civic, the Best Car Ever Made What’s the deal with the 10th gen? I was looking at them when I bought my last car, the 2016, and I only ever saw high praise for it.
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Nov 8, 2021 04:56
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Ok Comboomer posted:I wouldn’t even look at the 10th Gen (2016-2021). Any particular reason why? My wife loves the looks of the 10th gen Civics, and I loved my EF, I figured newer Civics would be just as reliable and good. I'm not shopping or anything, just curious.
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Nov 8, 2021 05:16
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Anonymous Robot posted:What’s the deal with the 10th gen? I was looking at them when I bought my last car, the 2016, and I only ever saw high praise for it. Nothing’s wrong with it. Some people really hate the external design and think it looks really different from all of the other Civics. Personally, I love that Honda literally took inspiration from Gundam when designing it, how could you not want to daily a car that looks like a Gundam? Some 2017s have HVAC problems and some 2016s appear to have first gen turbo motor problems, but all of that appears to be resolved and covered by various programs and warranty extensions. For me it’s mainly the issue that the 10th Gen’s infotainment system is doodoo garbage and it’s a massive ordeal/functionally impossible to do any kind of aftermarket replacement or upgrading without loving up the rearview camera and a bunch of other things. Also the quality of the textiles and interior touch points on the 10th Gen leaves a lot to be desired compared to the competition. It’s all plenty durable and whatnot, just like any other Honda of the past, but it just doesn’t feel as high quality or as nice. The seat fabrics are all kinda rough. It has the same vibe as Mazda’s base level interiors from the pre-Skyactive days. Ultimately it’s an issue of what you get for your money in today’s market. If I’m going to be constrained by my budget and buy used, I’d rather spend $9-15k on a Gen 9 (which is overpriced) with decent miles and maybe DIY myself a CarPlay-compatible infotainment upgrade via Crutchfield than spend $20-24k, which is basically MSRP for a brand new car, and get something that’s also used with the same number of miles but that’s a generation newer, and with a universally-reviled infotainment system that can never be improved or replaced and an interior that’s not much better (many people would say it’s worse) than its predecessor’s. Once you’re asking me to spend $20-24k on a 10th Gen Civic in late 2021 I’m either going to want “similar enough experience for a whole lot less money” (we’re talking like MY 2014-2015) or I’m going to want to look at a brand new Civic of the brand new generation that just dropped, which has an improved version of the Gen 10 drivetrain and (I believe) chassis, and is a massive improvement in terms of luxury features, design, and creature comforts, even if it means spending a little bit more. Am I making sense? trilobite terror fucked around with this message at 05:43 on Nov 8, 2021 |
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Nov 8, 2021 05:35
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I get you, thanks. I do love the Gundam car, I thought the Civic’s more aggressive styling was really neat.
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Nov 8, 2021 05:46
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Ok Comboomer posted:They’re all gonna be like that in the current market. Yeah then that level of fantastically bad deal is bad enough that I would wait to buy a car at all if one can. I like entry level luxury A4 / 3 Series etc. so I look at them on Carvana or Cars.com or wherever, and I am used to seeing $20k off MSRP sticker for a few years used. $1k off sticker is a complete joke.
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Nov 8, 2021 07:25
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Inner Light posted:$1k off sticker is a complete joke. $1k off sticker with ~60k miles, no more warranty coverage, and if you’re really lucky visible wear and tear both inside and out. Maybe even a bunch of rust on the undercarriage and in the engine bay if you’re talking about some of the northern New England cars I saw. Maybe even some broken trim, stains and tears in the headliner, why not? Seller’s market, baby, you need a car to go to work or not? You think we’re gonna jump through any hoops for you?
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Nov 8, 2021 07:43
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kid sinister posted:Do you have the 1996 F250? Ford F series switched generations in 1997. The 250 was the new generation while the 250 HD was the old generation. https://imgur.com/feBmlgP https://imgur.com/aRMI81g
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Nov 8, 2021 08:40
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C-Bangin' it 
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Ok Comboomer posted:sounds like what you need is a Civic, the Best Car Ever Made New car adding on ~1500 destination charge and TTL and it raises the price 3-4k and that makes it a no deal for me, my budget is that tight. It's just the dumbest thing in the world with used cars being just as much if not higher than new ones, but all buyers are in the same poo poo pile together on this.
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Nov 8, 2021 09:08
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iroguebot posted:New car adding on ~1500 destination charge and TTL and it raises the price 3-4k and that makes it a no deal for me, my budget is that tight. It's just the dumbest thing in the world with used cars being just as much if not higher than new ones, but all buyers are in the same poo poo pile together on this. That’s why I recommended something like a Gen 9 (or hell, even a Gen 8) Civic. Or really anything else like that, with a reputation for reliability and low running costs, from that time period, let’s say 2005-2015. Heck, I almost bought a 2007 CRV at one point for $6k. Perfectly nice and comfortable car on the inside, aux port, usb, heated seats, 80k on the odometer-probably put another 100k on it easy. Ideally something purchased right from the owner instead of going through a dealer, but where it isn’t so new that they’re jacking the price way up because that’s what they see the dealers doing. In your shoes I’d be trying to spend as little money as possible right now and getting a car that will do all the important poo poo and the basics without breaking down or causing you maintenance headaches. Then in 1, 2, 3, maybe 4 years you sell it and get that newer car. Or maybe even an EV at that point. Who knows. You’re probably going to take a bath on the value of the car no matter what, but the size of that bath is within your control. An older, less expensive car is simply going to have less markup, and any markups will be less money because that’s how proportionality works, etc. Lets say prices inflated 20% across the board— you could have a used car that would cost $20k last year and costs $24k now vs a used car that cost $10k last year and costs $12k now. What I wouldn’t do is pay “new car” prices, or close to “new car” prices, for a car with no warranty, or with 10k miles/1 year/whatever left on the warranty. Also, when cars are as inflated as they are now the biggest danger to buyers is to end up holding the bag on a 48 month loan for a car that’s gonna be worth way, way less than what’s owed on it after the bubble deflates (I don’t think it’s ever gonna truly pop, I think cars are probably just gonna stay more expensive from here on out, but values will come down a lot).
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Nov 8, 2021 10:07
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Where is a good place to buy legit upgraded headlight bulbs? I used to deal with Candle power, but the dudes who founded the company retired and sold, and the guy that took over (just found out) had a heart attack and died like 2 months later. I guess thats why he didn't reply to my emails..... I'm looking for H9 and H11 bulbs specifically. I've checked out Daniel Stern lighting but there are none listed there.
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Nov 8, 2021 10:24
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In terms of carfax owners I'd obviously want to stay away from a previous rental, as it's just expected that people dog out rentals for shits and giggles. Would a commercial vehicle be in the same ballpark or if I came across a 2015 Camry with 30k miles on it that looks like it had a oil changed every 5k miles or so be something safe? From what I've read is a lease is typically a safe bet since getting maintenance done is usually built into the contract, and personal ownership is just however the person treated the car. Here's the car in question, I'm sorry for spamming this thread with my horseshit I really have little else to turn to. https://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-sale/vehicledetails.xhtml?listingId=609607469 Found a Honda Fit that I like the mileage and carfax, I emailed the dealer for some more pictures if they can provide. https://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-sale/vehicledetails.xhtml?listingId=610566548
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Nov 8, 2021 11:50
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Thank you so much! The wire colors make sense now.
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Nov 8, 2021 19:04
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wesleywillis posted:Where is a good place to buy legit upgraded headlight bulbs?
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Nov 8, 2021 19:06
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This came up in a facebook group earlier. The alldata instructions for a honda k24 timing chain say to keep the chain away from magnetic fields before install:  Can any of you think of WHY? There's a reluctor for the crank position, and there's really nothing else on the path. All I can figure is that it might attract metal pieces that would otherwise sit in the sump. Could it be enough to keep the cam phasing cogs from rotating freely? 
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Nov 8, 2021 20:53
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So I'm in the parking lot of the local Canadian tire parking lot when suddenly a LOUD knocking makes me jump. There's a Ford F-150 (not too good with trucks: could have been as old as the 11th generation that started in 2004, but my guess it was a 12th gen), towing a medium-size trailer. It is stopped, and every time the guy revs it, the truck makes a knocking sound as loud as a jackhammer, like the flywheel has come loose and is just wanging on the transmission housing or something. As I go about my business, he slowly moves in pulses across the parking lot, stopping every time with that jackhammer sound. Anyway, my question is what the heck was wrong with this truck?
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Nov 8, 2021 21:33
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Driveshaft loose/about to let go, transmission guts working their way out, engine bits working their way out. Flexplate / flywheel (did they make manual trucks by that point?) bolts could indeed be loose! There's a variety of things that could do it.
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Nov 8, 2021 22:03
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Metal skeleton orgy in the trailer.
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Nov 8, 2021 22:05
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glyph posted:This came up in a facebook group earlier. The reluctor or whatever kind of crankshaft position sensor uses an electromagnetic sensor probably.
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Nov 8, 2021 22:15
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Deteriorata posted:The switches and connections may be fine, it may be the CC module itself. You'd have to go through a thorough trouble-shooting tree to pin it down. That was it, the last step at the end of the checklist was "replace the speed control servo". So I did. It works now! Thanks, everybody!
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Nov 8, 2021 22:23
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Charles posted:The reluctor or whatever kind of crankshaft position sensor uses an electromagnetic sensor probably. Right, but there's a toothed wheel for that. Though. I guess it IS clamped tight to the crankshaft chain sprocket.
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Nov 8, 2021 23:13
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I am considering getting a remote starter for my 2009 Toyota Prius. (It might be a 2010? I forget. It's second generation.) The hope is to make it easier to go to the gym in the dead of winter if I can let it run for a bit and not have to scrape, or at least make it easier. Is there anything I should know ahead of time, from a technical/purchasing perspective? I know these things were all the rage 10 years ago, but I never looked into them before now.
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Nov 9, 2021 11:19
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Magnetic North posted:I am considering getting a remote starter for my 2009 Toyota Prius. (It might be a 2010? I forget. It's second generation.) The hope is to make it easier to go to the gym in the dead of winter if I can let it run for a bit and not have to scrape, or at least make it easier. Is there anything I should know ahead of time, from a technical/purchasing perspective? I know these things were all the rage 10 years ago, but I never looked into them before now. check if there's a factory part for it you can just snag (just did that, there's not), see what people say on forums and poo poo (not super positive), see what's available commercially (just universal whole ignition switch replacements), pull up a wiring diagram for your switch and see how tricky it looks to splice that poo poo in (this is the first one i saw but the official ignition diagram would be pretty nice) the reason they have a kinda bad rep is that if you/whoever installs it fucks up now your car won't start. not really any more complex than installing a stereo though
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Nov 9, 2021 15:20
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2016 Honda CRV It's had trouble starting for a couple of months now. It seems exactly like a dead/dying battery (headlights dim when you lower a power window, etc). The starter turns over very slowly, and then just stops. I got a new battery and it seem ok for a little over a week and now it's back to the same behavior. The teenager at autozone tested my alternator and said it passed. It really seems like the alternator, but I'm at a loss of how to be certain. Any suggestions?
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Nov 9, 2021 16:06
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spacetoaster posted:2016 Honda CRV Get a multimeter and see what the voltage is across the battery terminal with the vehicle running, should be over 14v.
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Nov 9, 2021 17:10
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pnac attack posted:the reason they have a kinda bad rep is that if you/whoever installs it fucks up now your car won't start. not really any more complex than installing a stereo though Hmm maybe I'll just be cold. But thanks for the info.
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Nov 9, 2021 17:11
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VelociBacon posted:Get a multimeter and see what the voltage is across the battery terminal with the vehicle running, should be over 14v. 14.37 With car off 13
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Nov 9, 2021 18:11
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That looks like a working alternator and reasonably healthy battery to me, especially if it's hovering in the 12-13V for a good while after being shut off. If you can get someone to help you, watch the voltage while cranking (this can be a bit tricky with a low end digital meter since they don't respond quickly) and see what it drops to, but this sounds more like either a loose/corroded connection on a battery cable, or possibly a failing starter.
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Nov 9, 2021 18:29
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I'm voting for cruddy cables/connection to the starter, especially if this car is somewhere with road salt. Little early, but cleaning up all the connections certainly won't hurt.
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Nov 9, 2021 18:34
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Magnetic North posted:Hmm maybe I'll just be cold. But thanks for the info. Also, I’ve tried this in Chicago we get pretty cold. I don’t have a remote start. It will take 30+ mins of idling to make any appreciable difference in how hard or how much ice you have to scrape off the exterior, due to how efficient idling it, it doesn’t generate much heat. Driving is what does it. I just buck up, turn on the seat heater (no steering wheel heater in my whip) and get to work. It seems less cold if I do some physical work before plopping down on the seat anyway. Love having a garage spot now though! Brand new Audis still don’t have remote start I believe due to EU environmental regs. Inner Light fucked around with this message at 18:39 on Nov 9, 2021 |
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Nov 9, 2021 18:37
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I'll clean the battery connections, just to be sure, but they're shiny and clean already.
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Nov 9, 2021 18:38
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IOwnCalculus posted:That looks like a working alternator and reasonably healthy battery to me, especially if it's hovering in the 12-13V for a good while after being shut off. I bet half of my posts about batteries are "Check the connections", and in this case I think thats a very high likelihood. Dead battery before its time, and a fresh one worked well for a while. Time to bust out the brushes and clean some terminals, both sides of the cable. For full satisfaction, you can do a resistance check from the top of the negative lead post to a good ground, and from the top of the positive post to the starter connection, ideally the top of the bolt, so you're isolating the cable. If the resistance is more than double digits you've got a problem.
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Nov 9, 2021 18:39
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Battery-side might be good but like Motronic and StormDrain said, you need to check both ends. Unfortunately the starter on a K-series is tucked up under the intake manifold and is a pain in the rear end to get at.
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Nov 9, 2021 18:42
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Inner Light posted:Also, I’ve tried this in Chicago we get pretty cold. I don’t have a remote start. It will take 30+ mins of idling to make any appreciable difference in how hard or how much ice you have to scrape off the exterior, due to how efficient idling it, it doesn’t generate much heat. Driving is what does it. This is vehicle dependent I beleive. When I use the factory remote start on my Sierra it will blast the defroster on and run at a high idle and within the 10 minute run time the center will be defrosted and the rest will be soft. In Denver for reference. This could be a difference of how much heat is generated or the routing of the coolant.
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Nov 9, 2021 18:42
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Last night my prius (2015) wouldn't start, do I need a new Aux 12V battery? So I know nothing about cars, much less hybrid ones, but I think my battery is dead. About two weeks ago I stopped at the gas station, turned off my car, and when I was done refueling my car wouldn't start up right away. Usual procedure is depress brake>push lil power button, and the car starts. There's the "accessory mode" which is supposed to not start the engine, but just let you use the radio and roll windows down, and I thought I may have accidentally started it in that at first, but nothing worked. About three minutes later it started up, so I didn't think much of it, and then last night I stopped at the grocery store and when I got back to the car it wouldn't start whatsoever. The key fob also wouldn't lock/unlock the car reliably at that time, so I thought it may have been an issue with the fob, as I had to replace that battery last month and figured it could have just been a lovely key battery, but then while I was waiting for the tow the lock/unlock buttons on the drivers door (with all the window buttons, etc) wouldn't work, and after it got dark the cabin lights were getting dim. I had the doors shut so I don't think I was draining the battery that hard, but I was trying to start the car over the next hour while waiting for AAA to show up. The tow truck driver was unable to jump it, so I ended up getting towed home (which was fuckin hilarious, since the vehicle can't enter nuetral without turning on, he had to rock my car off the ramp by shaking the ramp front to back for like ten minutes. Hope that doesn't gently caress anything else up) This is a 2015 Toyota Prius (I don't know if there's a sub-catagory for it or if that is relavant, and I also can't find out what the sub-type would be from the manual). I bought this pre-owned in early 2018, and the maintanence record from the last owner was superb, but I don't believe the battery was changed before I bought it and certainly wasn't changed while I have had it. Is there anything else this may be? I am extra broke after the tow, so I don't really have a lot of cushion to try one fix and it not work, and I rely on my car to work as my job requires me to drive roughly 200 miles a day (not quite a delivery man but about that much driving). I can't afford to tow my car to a dealer or repair shop, but if I am completely unable to replace the battery myself I may have to. (Thank you for any help and I'm sorry if this is the wrong thread, let me know and I'll delete my post) ETA: Follow up question - I managed to haul that battery outta my car, but won't be able to get a replacement until tomorrow. No battery in the vehicle isn't worse than a dead battery in the vehicle, right? Am I cool to leave this thing out until tomorrow? Hit or miss Clitoris fucked around with this message at 00:29 on Nov 10, 2021 |
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Nov 9, 2021 21:15
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Your 12V battery is dead. And rocking it like that is a drat good way to break the parking pawl in your transmission. Disconnecting the 12V battery and hooking a jump pack up to the battery cables should be enough to power the car up enough to get it out of park, though your owner's manual should have more info.
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Nov 10, 2021 01:31
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STR posted:Your 12V battery is dead. Cool, thanks for the answer We tried charging it for like 5 minutes and it couldn't start whatsoever, following the instructions from the manual. I wasn't stoked about trying to shake the car off like a cold, but it got me home, and I took video of the event cause a) it was hilarious and b) yeah that seemed damaging Guess I'll keep an eye on my parking pawl, good thing I don't park on steep hills and always use the parking brake (those are different things right (oh god I know nothing
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Nov 10, 2021 01:51
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(yes, parking brake and parking pawl are entirely separate) I want to put this Huf RDE014V21 tire pressure sensor on this 15x6.5 steel wheel. That is the OEM wheel for my 2000 Toyota Sienna minivan, which pre-dates these fancy new tire pressure sensors. What do I need to know about sensor/wheel compatibility? Is that a thing? I picked this particular sensor because it is known to work well with the aftermarket display I'm going to buy.
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Nov 10, 2021 02:54
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So I test drove a 2017 Corolla SE and it drove well, was very clean inside and out, carfax didn't have anything shocking like rental car or any accidents, the only thing that I saw on the carfax that stood out was a ~20k mile change of oil towards it being traded in to the dealership that has it now. I've been sort of a stickler for oil changes and monitoring all the records so maybe they just took it to a place that didn't pop up as a service, I don't know. I checked it out monday and looked at the dipstick and checked the fluids and everything looked good, oil was crystal clear but had just been changed before being put up for sale. Two previous owners, car is 59k miles. Any red flags with it? Are CVT transmissions in corollas good and reliable? https://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-sale/vehicledetails.xhtml?listingId=610603081
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Nov 10, 2021 13:17
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iroguebot posted:So I test drove a 2017 Corolla SE and it drove well, was very clean inside and out, carfax didn't have anything shocking like rental car or any accidents, the only thing that I saw on the carfax that stood out was a ~20k mile change of oil towards it being traded in to the dealership that has it now. I've been sort of a stickler for oil changes and monitoring all the records so maybe they just took it to a place that didn't pop up as a service, I don't know. I checked it out monday and looked at the dipstick and checked the fluids and everything looked good, oil was crystal clear but had just been changed before being put up for sale. Two previous owners, car is 59k miles. Any red flags with it? Are CVT transmissions in corollas good and reliable? How bad do you need a car? I just picked up a 2021 Corolla hatchback SE in July for 20250 out the door with .9% financing from my credit union. I had to wait ~50 days for the car to get here, but I got it at 9 miles with a 60k warranty. I got the manual, has some cool features for daily driving like hill hold, rev match. Their new cvt has a real gear and suppose to be nice. I never test drove a cvt though.
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Nov 10, 2021 16:28
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So I committed a rookie mistake today, and I could use some help. I tried to change the spark plugs on my 2016 Ford Fusion with the 1.5 Ecoboost and things went wrong. I got some bad info/made a mistake and used a 5/8 socket instead of a 9/16ths. Now the socket is jammed in the plug hole. It turns, but only with great difficulty. I immediately stopped screwing with it when I realized something wasn't right. Any suggestions for getting that socket out without breaking anything? Should I just bringing it to a garage?
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Nov 11, 2021 05:50
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