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a primate posted:My 2011 Forte with 226k km needs calipers all around according to the dealer. Usually Id be sceptical of the dealer, but I went in for a transmission fluid change and they guy said dont bother, just buy another car. Never offered me a sales rep or anything, didnt really seem to care to sell me a new one, just didnt want me to waste money on maintenance, or so he said. I was also looking fairly rough coming from work so it might have been genuine. i wrote/accidentally deleted a longer thing but tl;dr i would not worry too much about any of that stuff. all looks like a normal lovely old kia, nothing dangerous or about to fail. you can get cheap calipers for ~$150 and nice ones ~$300, 500 is a lot. the brake stuff is doable solo by a beginner if you were interested, bushings would need some kind of press, old rusty exhaust is a real pain in the rear end. valve cover leaking oil is nbd either and a real easy fix. what to do very much depends on needs/budget/skillset/just plain personal preference, but if i were dailying your kia i'd probably start looking for a deal on a car i liked better and try to sell this one before anything actually went wrong
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Nov 21, 2021 23:10
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skipdogg posted:Whats your financial situation and whats the best outcome for you? I have money for a new car so Im not too bothered by it. Not looking forward to payments, but this thing has served me well and I dont feel shortchanged at all. Its in good shape for 11 winters of road salt. Wheel wells are clean. Theres one worrying rock chip that turned into a big deep rust spot at the border of the windshield. I sanded and paint penned it years ago but it came back anyway. I told myself Id fix it but at this point I dont see the point. I had heard that 2022 would be a good time to buy as chips returned to the market, so thought I could limp it through. If thats unlikely, Ill just get something now (depending on stock). KIA Seltos are apparently in pretty short supply, but Im test driving one tomorrow. Sales guy said 3-4 month wait for an order, so is trying to steer me to a Sportage (which I dont want). Im planning on checking out the Crosstrek and the CX-30 as well, which are more likely victors. I appreciate the advice, sounds like my thinking wasnt too off the mark.
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Nov 22, 2021 01:26
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pnac attack posted:i wrote/accidentally deleted a longer thing but tl;dr i would not worry too much about any of that stuff. all looks like a normal lovely old kia, nothing dangerous or about to fail. you can get cheap calipers for ~$150 and nice ones ~$300, 500 is a lot. the brake stuff is doable solo by a beginner if you were interested, bushings would need some kind of press, old rusty exhaust is a real pain in the rear end. valve cover leaking oil is nbd either and a real easy fix. what to do very much depends on needs/budget/skillset/just plain personal preference, but if i were dailying your kia i'd probably start looking for a deal on a car i liked better and try to sell this one before anything actually went wrong Thanks. Is it worth a private sale? Seats have some coffee stains from over the years. Ill need to give it a clean. Also various scratches on the back bumper due to people not knowing how to parallel park. Someone said I could get $500 as a trade-in which seams like a lowball offer but honestly I dont know any better. A colleague brought his ancient Matrix to the wreckers and got $500 for it. Any idea how much I could ask for it as a trade? For private sale, theyre going for a few grand: https://www.autotrader.ca/a/kia/for...%200B8&sprx=100 Mine looks like that but is one trim tier above, with some coffee stains on the driver seat and the scratched rear bumper.
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Nov 22, 2021 01:34
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a primate posted:Thanks. Is it worth a private sale? Seats have some coffee stains from over the years. Ill need to give it a clean. Also various scratches on the back bumper due to people not knowing how to parallel park. $500 is loving you, without even looking if it's running/driving/not wrecked it'd sell for at least triple that private party in a day. my sales strat is to do all the little things you can, list high, and not be in a hurry. just being clean/a nice place to sit makes a huge difference. not really the guy to ask about trade-in value, never bought a car from a dealership
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Nov 22, 2021 01:44
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For another data point, I sold a 2005 Subaru Outback with 150K miles and a blown headgasket for $1,000 US back in March. Took two days to sell, though a lot of dealing with craigslist shitheads during that time.
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Nov 22, 2021 02:42
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And yet another data point, trading in will always gently caress you - $500 for an older car is the norm. Carvana and Carmax, however, will buy your car, generally for a lowish fair price. It's better than dealing with Craigslist or FB Marketplace. Darchangel had a good experience with a broker that handled everything for a private party sale though (minus a small fee), maybe if he sees this he can remind me of who it was. He got his Spectra sold in 1 or 2 days through them.
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Nov 22, 2021 02:55
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skipdogg posted:Whats your financial situation I am extremely well off but I feel like its rude of you to ask.
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Nov 22, 2021 02:56
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A private sale is looking good then, or at least I can lean on a dealer for more trade-in value. Ive also seen on here not to bring up the prospect of a trade until late in the buying process so Ill keep that in mind. Ideally Id like to buy a demo unit or something used with low mileage but I enjoyed the peace of mind and full warranty that buying new provided last time. Ive seen a lot of ads for Unhaggle and similar sites. I really hate haggling, especially since everyone seems to want MSRP right now. I might look into one of those sites to save me some time. Id be interested to know if anyone has experience buying like that.
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Nov 22, 2021 03:00
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bird with big dick posted:I am extremely well off but I feel like its rude of you to ask. I wish that were the case lol. My wife and I have been lucky to keep our jobs through the pandemic and we have some money saved so Ive been mentally prepared to buy something for a while. Just dont want to sink too much money in repairing something that wont last. One thing I didnt mention is that I already replaced front ball joints, and the guy that did it said a steering rack is definitely next on the list. All of these things piling up make me want to peace out rather than dig in. STR posted:And yet another data point, trading in will always gently caress you - $500 for an older car is the norm. Carvana and Carmax, however, will buy your car, generally for a lowish fair price. It's better than dealing with Craigslist or FB Marketplace. Thanks for the tips. Ive never done any of this before so very happy for the input. Ill check out those services, never thought of such a thing.
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Nov 22, 2021 03:04
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My power steering system runs exclusively on STP High Mileage Power Steering Fluid + Stop Leak. By which I mean there is no longer any normal PS fluid in the system. It is running on pure stop leak. It went from pissing out all the fluid out in a day, to leaking several ounces per oil change. It still does leak a little, which causes the underside of my car to be permanently nasty. But for practical purposes, it fixed my PS leak. e: And keep pouring it in. It took several bottles to stabilize my leak. I think desperation makes it work better. ryanrs fucked around with this message at 04:20 on Nov 22, 2021 |
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Nov 22, 2021 03:54
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Just to follow up on my partial tune up from a week or so ago. Yesterday I took the car out for the longest drive since putting the new plugs in. Wow, car ran so nice and the mileage gauge showed a huge improvement. In hindsight it seems crazy to wait until 100k miles to change the plugs. So I'm thinking about finishing the job off and replacing the coil packs just to be thorough and, WOW, coil packs are expensive! The cheapest OEM Motorcraft I've found are $60 each. I'm not sure what I expected, but that's more than I expected. Guess I'll be saving up my pennies.
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Nov 22, 2021 07:34
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ryanrs posted:My power steering system runs exclusively on STP High Mileage Power Steering Fluid + Stop Leak. By which I mean there is no longer any normal PS fluid in the system. It is running on pure stop leak. lmao just picturing the inside of your PS line, and its got like the consistency of chewing gum
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Nov 22, 2021 09:01
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More like uncured epoxy. But yes, it is very much like that.
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Nov 22, 2021 15:50
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SpitztheGreat posted:Just to follow up on my partial tune up from a week or so ago. Yesterday I took the car out for the longest drive since putting the new plugs in. Wow, car ran so nice and the mileage gauge showed a huge improvement. In hindsight it seems crazy to wait until 100k miles to change the plugs. I wouldn't just replace your coilpacks, the value isn't there like it is for spark plug replacement IMO.
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Nov 22, 2021 16:10
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You can get a spark gap tester for like $10 and run through the cylinders to see how strong the coils are. I was in the same spot as you last year and turned out my coils were all working great. I have one like this, seems to work fine but I've never tried another type so maybe there is a better kind. 
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Nov 22, 2021 22:54
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SpitztheGreat posted:Just to follow up on my partial tune up from a week or so ago. Yesterday I took the car out for the longest drive since putting the new plugs in. Wow, car ran so nice and the mileage gauge showed a huge improvement. In hindsight it seems crazy to wait until 100k miles to change the plugs. Depending on the engine, 100k miles is pretty standard for a change interval (iridium, non-boosted engine). For boosted engines, change interval may be more like 60k, depending on the maker. To be honest, if you're not hooning around everywhere, your plugs can probably go past 100k miles by quite a bit. It's not crazy 
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Nov 23, 2021 08:52
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2017 F150 XL supercab 4x4 3.5L ecoboost with 4k miles: good deal at $34k? My wife wants to tow an Airstream and get rid of our 2010 Odyssey.
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Nov 23, 2021 18:51
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Four year-old 4x4 and four thousand miles? 
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Nov 23, 2021 19:33
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PainterofCrap posted:Four year-old 4x4 and four thousand miles? Apparently the seller's wife is rich and buys him whatever he wants, and he's bored with this (the guy is a friend of my wife's friend). It lives the sunset in SF. It's got steelies so it's a work truck as far as I can tell. I can't argue with 4x4 combined with a 3.5L Ecoboost- that's pretty sweet. KBB says around $30k private party.
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Nov 23, 2021 20:17
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AnnoyBot posted:Apparently the seller's wife is rich and buys him whatever he wants, and he's bored with this (the guy is a friend of my wife's friend). It lives the sunset in SF. It's got steelies so it's a work truck as far as I can tell. I can't argue with 4x4 combined with a 3.5L Ecoboost- that's pretty sweet. KBB says around $30k private party. People are pretty much always going to lie about the stories they tell about the cars they sell. This sounds super fishy, and even then a car that has sat around for the better part of 4 years is likely to have more issues than one that has been driven a lot. Definitely at the very least take it to a trusted mechanic and have them look it over.
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Nov 23, 2021 21:26
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Lowball em. Serious note its probably not too bad? I don't really follow the 150 line. Bonus if it has the tow pack or max tow. Anybody have experience with corbeau seats, long term etc? 4wd forums seem to hit two points that they're either poo poo and fall apart or they're great.
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Nov 24, 2021 02:30
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It seems to have the basic tow package (2 plugs + hitch). I looked up the VIN and it didn't mention towing. The 4x4 XLs with the 3.5L on autotrader seem to be $26-29k, with more miles and alloy wheels. I agree that the story could be just a story, and that a mechanic check and request for service records would be in order. Lowballing shouldn't be too hard given the comps. Thanks all.
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Nov 24, 2021 08:05
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Some packages are dealer-fitted (rather than factory fitted) so won't show on VINs No idea about if that's the case here
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Nov 24, 2021 08:39
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AnnoyBot posted:It seems to have the basic tow package (2 plugs + hitch). I looked up the VIN and it didn't mention towing. The 4x4 XLs with the 3.5L on autotrader seem to be $26-29k, with more miles and alloy wheels. I agree that the story could be just a story, and that a mechanic check and request for service records would be in order. Lowballing shouldn't be too hard given the comps. I would go for it, always negotiate what you can out of it. The 4k miles are unusual but not implausible. Sounds like it's not a luxury trim, and didn't become anyone's daily driver.
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Nov 24, 2021 16:04
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When it's cold outside the doors of my BMW G31 5-series touring freeze shut and it can be very difficult to get them open. It looks like it's mainly freezing in a bit that is not exposed, so spraying de-icer on it doesn't seem to do much. What the hell can I do? I feel like an idiot trying to get them open and it can make me late for stuff.
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Nov 25, 2021 08:49
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Maybe this thread is relevant to your doors? https://forum.bmw5.co.uk/topic/144756-off-side-rear-doors-in-the-frost/
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Nov 25, 2021 09:06
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Sir Sidney Poitier posted:When it's cold outside the doors of my BMW G31 5-series touring freeze shut and it can be very difficult to get them open. It looks like it's mainly freezing in a bit that is not exposed, so spraying de-icer on it doesn't seem to do much. this isn't specific to your car at all, and what you can do is spray silicone lube on your door seals. doesn't 100% prevent this, but it'll happen less often/not be as bad
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Nov 25, 2021 09:15
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pnac attack posted:this isn't specific to your car at all, and what you can do is spray silicone lube on your door seals. doesn't 100% prevent this, but it'll happen less often/not be as bad WD-40 will do it too, or at least disrupt it enough so the ice doesn't get a good seal going
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Nov 25, 2021 09:45
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Thanks, I'll give some silicone lube a try.
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Nov 25, 2021 10:26
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AnnoyBot posted:It seems to have the basic tow package (2 plugs + hitch). I looked up the VIN and it didn't mention towing. The 4x4 XLs with the 3.5L on autotrader seem to be $26-29k, with more miles and alloy wheels. I agree that the story could be just a story, and that a mechanic check and request for service records would be in order. Lowballing shouldn't be too hard given the comps. Where did you look up the VIN? Sometimes with Fords you can look up the actual original window sticker and that will tell you all the options but it's not decoding the VIN its just pulling the window sticker out of a database. Not all options are coded into VINs. In fact hardly any of them are.
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Nov 25, 2021 16:08
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Hey everyone. My tail light got smashed, and I got the idea in my head to replace it myself, since it seemed like a pretty simple and fun job to do. Upon trying to order the OEM part from a retailer online they insisted they needed my VIN. Did I fall into a classic scam, or is this normal? I had the part number and everything so I'm not really sure why they insist on needing the Vehicle Identification Number to begin with. Is this normal, and are there things I need to be aware of when trying to buy parts online? This has left me pretty confused. Is the VIN even something I need to worry about sending out to strangers? Thanks.
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Nov 25, 2021 17:40
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Perfectly normal.
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Nov 25, 2021 17:42
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I guess the better question is: Do I have to ever worry about giving out my Vehicle Identification Number?
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Nov 25, 2021 17:51
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hell astro course posted:I guess the better question is: Do I have to ever worry about giving out my Vehicle Identification Number? No. And for most manufacturers it indicates not only make/year/model but also package/trim model, therefore what parts that particular car needs for various things. Since most people are idiots and returns are expensive the online parts companies often require a VIN that matches those expensive parts you are ordering so they can reduce morons calling up yelling at them for sending them the wrong thing (the thing they specifically requested).
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Nov 25, 2021 18:15
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Motronic posted:No. And for most manufacturers it indicated package/trim model, therefore what parts that particular car needs for various things. Since most people are idiots and returns are expensive the online parts companies often require a VIN that matches those expensive parts you are ordering so they can reduce morons calling up yelling at them for sending them the wrong thing (the thing they specifically requested). Yeah, i did all my homework to make sure it was the right part. I was just sort of taken aback that the make/model/year/package wasn't enough, but if it's a harmless number to give out then I can relax. I was just worried I was getting into something shady by accident. Thanks for the answer!!
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Nov 25, 2021 18:19
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hell astro course posted:I guess the better question is: Do I have to ever worry about giving out my Vehicle Identification Number? if your car was involved in crimes and you're worried about a paper trail
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Nov 25, 2021 18:29
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A big reason for needing a vin is because there can be variations in which parts a car was equipped with not just from year to year but even from month to month or week to week depending on suppliers. The left bank oxygen sensor for a 2020 f150 might be a different part number for one made in January vs one made in June. *Sometimes* the manufacturer may have to slightly tweak the ECU to work properly with a sensor that is slightly different so if your ride was built on January and you get an o2 sensor for one made in June things may get funky.
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Nov 25, 2021 22:18
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Also your VIN is just out and visible on the dashboard of your car to anyone that wants to take a look. A VIN is not like a social security number for your car or anything.
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Nov 25, 2021 22:50
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KakerMix posted:Also your VIN is just out and visible on the dashboard of your car to anyone that wants to take a look. A VIN is not like a social security number for your car or anything. 
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Nov 26, 2021 06:40
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Krakkles posted:I mean, maybe YOURS is I am *still* upset about the rental car worker who couldn't possibly comprehend why my C10 didn't have a VIN tag on the dash, and insisted she needed to check the VIN to make sure I wasn't driving off with one of their cars. This was twenty loving years ago.
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Nov 26, 2021 08:31
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