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Can someone help me out with painting dark skin? I have been working on dwarfs (fyreslayers) and wanted them to be a little bit more diverse than 65 short white dudes. I am pretty bad at flesh in general and have been using this army as a way to practice.
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Oct 17, 2020 17:46
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| # ? May 26, 2024 04:23 |
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The recipe I want to try is: 1. prime black 2. base rhinox hide 3. wash black 4. mix rhinox hide and doombull brown for highlights 5. highlight doombull brown 6. mix doombull and bugmans glow for highlights 7. highlight bugmans 8. highlight ubshanti bone
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Oct 17, 2020 17:56
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Usenet Magic-User posted:Can someone help me out with painting dark skin? I have been working on dwarfs (fyreslayers) and wanted them to be a little bit more diverse than 65 short white dudes. I am pretty bad at flesh in general and have been using this army as a way to practice. Its something I'm working on getting better at myself, off and on. Been trying to paint people with a range of skin tones, rather than all white guys, all the time. So far my results are okay I think. One tip I saw online (possibly in a GW video?) was if you are painting dark skin wash your brown with purple rather than black, it looks more organic and less cartoonish.
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Oct 17, 2020 18:12
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Goonhammer has a helpful article on painting skin tones, too. It helped me out a few months ago. https://www.goonhammer.com/how-to-paint-everything-human-skin/
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Oct 17, 2020 18:12
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Thanks everyone this is all good advice. I'll post some results and what I went with when I'm done.
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Oct 17, 2020 20:46
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Posting my BARC Speeder that I just finished: 
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Oct 17, 2020 22:40
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Finished painting my murder buckets as a break after doing my Skorpekh Lord
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Oct 17, 2020 22:46
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Xpost! Moved on to the Indomitus box and Started with the Bladeguard Ancient this week.   I'm feeling more comfortable with my edge highlights also switched up the base with a rocky dirt and some grass patches instead of mostly grass.
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Oct 18, 2020 08:25
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God drat, I love that red & black colour scheme. Very well done!
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Oct 18, 2020 10:02
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After wanting to get into this for a while, I finally broke down and got some ork boyz. First 3 are painted. I messed up and got agrax earthshade GLOSS wash for the middle one so now he looks perpetually wet.  The wife and kids think I've lost my mind, but I'm really enjoying it. Still trying to convince her to pick up a necron army, unsuccessfully so far.
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Oct 18, 2020 15:17
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nostrata posted:After wanting to get into this for a while, I finally broke down and got some ork boyz. First 3 are painted. I messed up and got agrax earthshade GLOSS wash for the middle one so now he looks perpetually wet. I wanted my wife to get Necrons, so I didn't have to justify another army. Might convince my kids too, though.
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Oct 18, 2020 15:18
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nostrata posted:After wanting to get into this for a while, I finally broke down and got some ork boyz. First 3 are painted. I messed up and got agrax earthshade GLOSS wash for the middle one so now he looks perpetually wet. you can buy a spray can of matte varnish which will fix the glossy look
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Oct 18, 2020 15:26
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That's good to know. I liked the color of agrax more than the nuln oil the other 2 have but I was worried about the shininess. I'll find some matte varnish to hit them with after I finish the rest. There are a few colors I'm still missing and need to pick up anyway.
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Oct 18, 2020 15:35
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Frosty Eradicator. Tested out using a contrast paint on leadbelcher for a Mr. Freeze style ice cannon. I should probably mix in a little bit of blue to the aethermatic blue to copy the recipe used on the shoulders, or maybe use a brighter metal color as the undercoat. Oh well, this is why I try out new things each time.  
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Oct 18, 2020 15:35
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nostrata posted:There are a few colors I'm still missing and need to pick up anyway.
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Oct 18, 2020 16:04
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PoptartsNinja posted:Added a little more Halloween to my collection. You need a Slendamin, true, but you also need a Pumpkinhead! (saw that like you might talk about a kids show mascot).
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Oct 18, 2020 16:18
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Xpostingro5s posted:More bugs for the bug pile:
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Oct 18, 2020 17:31
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Fingat posted:Xpost! I like this scheme a lot, well done
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Oct 18, 2020 17:45
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Wrapped up a Grey Seer  
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Oct 18, 2020 21:03
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 Still need to finish the guy in the back + some minor details and 5 more grots but feeling pretty happy with them so far Plague bearer contrast + atmo camoshade + ogryn skin highlight is so much easier to do compared to deathworld forest + atmo camoshade + elysian green and ogyrn skin highlight for the snot green grot skin, I didn't really get contrast paints at first but now I am seeing the appeal
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Oct 18, 2020 21:47
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Those grots own, I'm always tempted to pick some up just to paint them even though I have no interest in ever playing a horde army. Just really fun sculpts.
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Oct 18, 2020 23:41
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Deified Data posted:Wrapped up a Grey Seer Hell yeah.
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Oct 18, 2020 23:44
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So after what feels like a month of not doing anything mini related, I decided to give the airbrush another go. As someone said, the issue I had in my first attempt was that the needle wasn't properly adjusted, which was causing paint to leak out, despite not pulling the trigger back. I disassembled and reassembled it (not on purpose; by accident in trying to fix the needle), and I tried priming a pushfit Space Marine Heroes Terminator with a zenithal highlight.  The good news is that it went a lot better this time. I think I managed to readjust the needle properly, as it didn't leak when pushing the button down. I got a pretty good overall coat with the black primer (Stynelrez). There were a couple patches of the red plastic sticking through, but they were small, and the coverage seemed pretty solid. The bad(ish) news is that the zenithal with the white primer (also Stynelrez) didn't pan out quite as well.  As you can see, the paint is cracked, I think because it got sprayed on too thick. I remember someone saying that the Stynelrez white needs flow improver to get a better result, but I don't know if that was the issue here. Not sure how to fix it, apart from maybe sanding it off. Another issue was that I think I screwed up when setting up the compressor. Towards the end of the session, I realized that I was spraying at 10 PSi, despite setting it to 20 PSi. I think what happened was that when I turned it on, it was at 30psi, so I turned it down to 20, but I think the reason why it was at 30 is because there was excess air or something.
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Oct 19, 2020 00:09
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Yea, that is going on WAY too thick, but likely for a few reasons, one that you do want a couple drops of flow improver, but also I think you're pulling the needle way too far back. You should be getting a somewhat gradual transition between the white and black with the zenithal but yours is pretty much a hard line where the white paint is going. You should almost never be pulling the trigger fully back, even when priming, it's going to put out way more paint than you want.
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Oct 19, 2020 00:18
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You don’t need to put white primer on top of your black primer. That’s a lot of thick paint once you get it all on. Ideally buy some white acrylic ink and use that for your highlighting (mix it equal parts ink and flow improver), or alternatively lay down a couple of coats of whatever regular white paint you have, thinned down of course
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Oct 19, 2020 00:40
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Looks like Vallejo changed the formula for their model air mahogany paint. I'm trying to find something similar as a replacement. Anybody seen something that looks like this (the red colored paint in the very middle) (the other pools around it are the new mahogany paints) BULBASAUR fucked around with this message at 01:22 on Oct 19, 2020 |
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Oct 19, 2020 01:19
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jesus WEP posted:You don’t need to put white primer on top of your black primer. That’s a lot of thick paint once you get it all on. Ideally buy some white acrylic ink and use that for your highlighting (mix it equal parts ink and flow improver), or alternatively lay down a couple of coats of whatever regular white paint you have, thinned down of course On the one hand that's a good method, but I generally do a coat of black, grey, and white stynlrez for zenithal priming and don't lose any detail. 3 coats of that are noticeably thinner than 1 coat of rattlecan. You just need to a) make sure to shake the white vigorously for a solid minute or so and b) use a light touch on the airbrush action rather than caking it on.
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Oct 19, 2020 01:27
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If you have an airbrush you gotta use inks they're so so nice
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Oct 19, 2020 01:27
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Yeah, sufficiently thinned and shaken you'll be fine layering primers without loss of detail
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Oct 19, 2020 01:33
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gently caress off your white primer if you want to do Zenethiel work. Buy this stuff. It’s incredibly affordable waaaaaay smoother and brighter than primer. Inks are the business. 
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Oct 19, 2020 01:42
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Yeast posted:gently caress off your white primer if you want to do Zenethiel work. gently caress off with your white ink. If you have white primer it will work perfectly well for zenithal as long as you use it properly, which is trivial to do once you know how. There's no reason to go out and buy white ink for that purpose if you've already got white primer. I've tried liquitex white ink end the end result was pretty much identical.
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Oct 19, 2020 01:52
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Well, the ink can be a bit more delicate. I prefer zenithal with primer for that reason.
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Oct 19, 2020 01:55
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White ink can also be painted with after priming tho, and mixed with acrylic paints to lighten them They're great! Buy white ink. Max Wilco, do it. As an aside, I prime with Stynelrez Grey & black and they're great, their white is average.
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Oct 19, 2020 01:56
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gently caress off with your white ink and white primers, you can also just use white paint
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Oct 19, 2020 02:02
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Lol if you’re not just mixing your titanium oxide powder with water and smearing it on your models 
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Oct 19, 2020 02:05
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BULBASAUR posted:gently caress off with your white ink and white primers, you can also just use white paint White paint can also be painted with after priming, and mixed with acrylic paints to lighten them.
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Oct 19, 2020 02:06
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Yeast posted:Lol if you’re not just mixing your titanium oxide powder with water and smearing it on your models Unironically, yes, you could just use white pigments too
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Oct 19, 2020 02:11
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Get a basic set of ink colours so you can use any kind of ink to bring back colour saturation on your models after you've highlighted and shaded a ton
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Oct 19, 2020 02:16
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Cinara posted:Yea, that is going on WAY too thick, but likely for a few reasons, one that you do want a couple drops of flow improver, but also I think you're pulling the needle way too far back. You should be getting a somewhat gradual transition between the white and black with the zenithal but yours is pretty much a hard line where the white paint is going. Yeah, I picked up on that partway through spraying the white primer. I was just having trouble finding a happy medium*. There were points where I had to try spraying the mat I was working on to see if there was primer still coming out, and other points where I'd pull back all the way and get a big splat of paint (which I guess would maybe fall under the umbrella of spider-webbing). I think some of that issue was related to the pressure not being set right. The same thing happened with the black primer, but with the globs I got with that, it seemed like blowing air out on the point helped to get the primer spread around. Regardless, I get that I shouldn't pull all the way back on the trigger. *There's a painting joke to be made there the thread posted:arguing about zenithals with inks vs zenithals with primers vs zenithals with paints vs zenithal with titanium oxide powder Yeast posted:gently caress off your white primer if you want to do Zenethiel work. Only reason I'm doing a zenithal with the Stynelrez White Primer is because that's what I have currently (I bought the three-pack). I totally forgot about inks, though. I think I've seen that Liquitex White Ink used to do a white zenithal in the eBay Miniature Rescue videos or something. Eej posted:Get a basic set of ink colours so you can use any kind of ink to bring back colour saturation on your models after you've highlighted and shaded a ton What brand would you suggest? I'm not familiar with what inks are available.
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Oct 19, 2020 02:49
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Max Wilco posted:What brand would you suggest? I'm not familiar with what inks are available. Liquitex and Daler Rowney are the go to brands.
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Oct 19, 2020 03:00
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