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General automotive adjacent wiring question: Is it possible for a relay to "click" but not send power through it? Boss bought me a new drill and I've been repositioning the work lights on it as they were....... in less than ideal locations. I had the power on to poke the live with a test light and dropped it, it arced out and something popped. When I opened up the control panel, the fuse for it (20A) wasn't blown, and there is no power going to it. When I turn the switch on I hear the click of a relay and can feel it. Also, poking a random wire from that relay, with the test light it lights up when I turn the switch on. Though in fairness, I have no idea if the test light is lighting up because power is coming TO the relay, or if its from the relay closing and then sendng it out towards the fuse but there is an opening in the circuit (blown fuse) further down the line, in between the relay and the second fuse. So I guess my question is as above: Can a relay "click" but not send power through it? I'm not sure how else to phrase the question. I've emailed one of the guys from the manufacturer asking if there is another fuse for the lights buried somewhere, but haven't heard back yet. Though that was at 8pm last night, they are 2 time zones away, and might be off for the holidays. wesleywillis fucked around with this message at 16:16 on Dec 28, 2021 |
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Dec 28, 2021 16:13
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Yes, both because the relay is bad or because the control circuit is working but not the actual power circuit through the relay. To diagnose it you need to know which pins you're looking at/testing. Relays are nothing more than power-operated switches. You could hook one up and make it go click click click all day, but still have no power going through the terminals it's switching.
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Dec 28, 2021 17:44
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wesleywillis posted:General automotive adjacent wiring question: Absolutely 1000% possible
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Dec 28, 2021 21:46
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Also I believe the first "bug" in the computing sense was literally a bug on the load side of an open relay contact that was keeping it from closing/completing the circuit. That's probably just a convenient story......... But that exact thing absolutely does happen routinely on fixed AC compressor "contactors" (they're relays).
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Dec 28, 2021 22:13
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That's a fun story, but false...the bug was photographed as the first documented instance of a "computer bug", which means that the concept already existed before that point.
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Dec 28, 2021 22:34
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Thanks for the replies. Engineer from the Manufacturer got back to me and said there was a 15 amp fuse coming off the battery that I might want to check. Sure enough, it was blown. If it happens again, at least I know it'll be easier to get to than taking 9 screws out to open up the back of the control panel.
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Dec 28, 2021 23:01
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wesleywillis posted:Thanks for the replies. Yup. That was probably the actual load wire going to one side of the relay, while the control voltage was still working.
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Dec 29, 2021 00:32
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07 Ford Crown Vic, though this can probably be applied to any Ford with a later 4.6/5.4/V10 (with the PWM controlled fuel pump instead of a FPR on the fuel rail). Car is falling flat on its face when I stomp it. Sometimes. Sometimes it's just at certain RPMs, sometimes it's so bad that I lose all power, get a backfire or two from the intake, then it sputters and tries to take off, but still falls on its face around 3-4k. This is ONLY under WOT or close to WOT conditions. Regardless, if I do a 0-whatever pull with WOT, it eventually falls down hard - either at the top of 2nd, or a bit into 3rd. I haven't done much datalogging yet, but it looks like fuel pressure is dropping under high load conditions (fuel pressure dropped to slightly over 20 PSI around 5k earlier, normally runs 35-38 at idle). The fuel filter is only a couple of months old, though I have a new one that I'll be putting in shortly (as in tonight). I've yet to log AFRs, but I will soon (I have been keeping an eye on fuel trims, short term shoots up to +19 on both banks a second or two after this happens, but my OBD2 dongle is too slow to catch it quickly with everything I'm trying to get it to do). It's probably the fuel pump... right? 
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 00:57 on Dec 29, 2021 |
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Dec 29, 2021 00:53
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STR posted:07 Ford Crown Vic, though this can probably be applied to any Ford with a later 4.6/5.4/V10 (with the PWM controlled fuel pump instead of a FPR on the fuel rail). How is your fuel tank? This sounds like a clogged fuel filter to me, and if you've replaced it before already then perhaps your tank is full of garbo.
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Dec 29, 2021 01:31
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wesleywillis posted:Yeah, I just looked at the link you posted. Didn't realize they were welded on. Between putting the top pin in, and a little bit of penetrating spray, I got the door off! Thanks for the help!
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Dec 29, 2021 01:36
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KakerMix posted:How is your fuel tank? This sounds like a clogged fuel filter to me, and if you've replaced it before already then perhaps your tank is full of garbo. Don't those have a pre-pump sock/strainer too? Which could also be clogged with garbo with an otherwise fine pump.
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Dec 29, 2021 02:12
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KakerMix posted:How is your fuel tank? This sounds like a clogged fuel filter to me, and if you've replaced it before already then perhaps your tank is full of garbo. AFAIK it's fine, but I do know the car sat for 2-3 years at one point after being wrecked. The whole car is  thanks to being a constable vehicle in a rural area in its former life. (I wound up getting sent to that county the other day by work, and..... saw my car's twin, still in service with a constable  )It had what I'm pretty sure was the original filter when I got it, and the fuel in the filter was naaaaasty when I changed it (Motorcraft filter anyway). It was kinda like... liquid black sand is the best way to describe it? PCM was commanding 75 PSI [100%], but it was falling on its face when you gave it more than a little throttle thanks to the low flow. Currently has a Carquest filter, which is also what's going in.
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Dec 29, 2021 06:17
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STR posted:AFAIK it's fine, but I do know the car sat for 2-3 years at one point after being wrecked. The whole car is Sitting for 3 years with a not-full tank of fuel is a sure-fire way to get a tank full of poo poo. Literally what happened to a Tracker we bought. Snowbird's car so hardly driven, then sat for 3 years with a quarter tank. Was fine when we started driving it but shortly developed your exact symptom. Replaced the filter, was good for a bit, then bucking under throttle came back. Pulled the tank down, a bunch of poo poo all long the inside. Replaced the tank, the pump and the sock around the pump intake, along with the filter (again). Never had an issue after that. Was the car fine for a bit when you first replaced the filter?
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Dec 29, 2021 06:29
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KakerMix posted:Sitting for 3 years with a not-full tank of fuel is a sure-fire way to get a tank full of poo poo. Literally what happened to a Tracker we bought. Snowbird's car so hardly driven, then sat for 3 years with a quarter tank. Was fine when we started driving it but shortly developed your exact symptom. Replaced the filter, was good for a bit, then bucking under throttle came back. Pulled the tank down, a bunch of poo poo all long the inside. Replaced the tank, the pump and the sock around the pump intake, along with the filter (again). Never had an issue after that. well gently caress. My E36 has been sitting for the better part of 2 years (moved last March) with like maybe a quarter gallon of gas. I knew the gas would go bad/need siphoning/etc, but I didn’t think it might gently caress up the fuel system. Fuel pump replacement was the last major job the car got before its extended sit, too.
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Dec 29, 2021 07:33
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Ok Comboomer posted:well gently caress. My E36 has been sitting for the better part of 2 years (moved last March) with like maybe a quarter gallon of gas. I knew the gas would go bad/need siphoning/etc, but I didn’t think it might gently caress up the fuel system. Did you ever think of this thing as a possibility? https://www.amazon.com/STA-BIL-22205-Fuel-Stabilizer-oz/dp/B002G14VCY/ref=dp_fod_1?pd_rd_i=B002G14VCY&psc=1 Might have helped you out at the time, don't know if it's worth it now.
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Dec 29, 2021 08:32
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Inner Light posted:Did you ever think of this thing as a possibility? https://www.amazon.com/STA-BIL-22205-Fuel-Stabilizer-oz/dp/B002G14VCY/ref=dp_fod_1?pd_rd_i=B002G14VCY&psc=1 at the time I was dealing with some life threatening health issues, as well as a massive break up, and I was suicidally depressed, so no I didn’t. Then I switched careers, got a new daily and a bunch of other poo poo happened. Then I eventually totaled that car and had to replace it with an even newer daily and then there was never enough time or money to deal with the E36 and start properly sorting it out. Sorry present-and-future-tense me. Assuming I want to get the E36 back to roadworthiness, am I looking at ripping out the fuel tank/pump? The car is in mostly excellent condition and had been fairly extensively maintained before my life temporarily went to poo poo, but I was gearing up to schedule several low thousand ($1-5k) in work over the following few years (mainly cosmetic but the clutch, guibo, and suspension needed replacement and the whole motor was due for a full refurbishment/gasket replacement/etc). It’s definitely not a “cost no object” car, but I’m attached enough to it that I could reasonably sink another $10k into it at the very extreme high end over the course of my lifetime to get it back to decent shape (the previous owner’s apparently-much-more-cut-rate-than-I-was-led-to-believe paint job is starting to go in places, so let’s assume that the $10k includes $4-5k for some better-than-Maaco paint and trim work) and replace the stuff that’s aged/could be improved.
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Dec 29, 2021 08:50
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Is it worth putting a catch can in a 6.4L Hemi Durango SRT?
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Dec 29, 2021 14:31
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Ok Comboomer posted:at the time I was dealing with some life threatening health issues, as well as a massive break up, and I was suicidally depressed, so no I didn’t. Then I switched careers, got a new daily and a bunch of other poo poo happened. Then I eventually totaled that car and had to replace it with an even newer daily and then there was never enough time or money to deal with the E36 and start properly sorting it out. Sorry present-and-future-tense me. I think it’d be worth seeing what it does with some fresh gas in the tank. If it fires up, fill it up and get some fuel stabilizer in it. If it doesn’t, you’ll have to start diagnosing why not. Sitting for so long, a dead battery is a possibility. I’m not convinced you’ll have to overhaul the fuel system, but you just have to try it and find out.
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Dec 29, 2021 15:18
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KakerMix posted:Sitting for 3 years with a not-full tank of fuel is a sure-fire way to get a tank full of poo poo. Literally what happened to a Tracker we bought. Snowbird's car so hardly driven, then sat for 3 years with a quarter tank. Was fine when we started driving it but shortly developed your exact symptom. Replaced the filter, was good for a bit, then bucking under throttle came back. Pulled the tank down, a bunch of poo poo all long the inside. Replaced the tank, the pump and the sock around the pump intake, along with the filter (again). Never had an issue after that. It was... better, yeah. Had a little bit of a flat spot in power. Doesn't buck (it bucked once the other day, first time), it just feels like it loses some power for a few seconds - basically the same flat spot, but much worse now.
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Dec 29, 2021 17:47
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nitsuga posted:I think it’d be worth seeing what it does with some fresh gas in the tank. If it fires up, fill it up and get some fuel stabilizer in it. If it doesn’t, you’ll have to start diagnosing why not. Sitting for so long, a dead battery is a possibility. I’m not convinced you’ll have to overhaul the fuel system, but you just have to try it and find out. Oh yeah, the battery’s hosed. Been hosed for at least a year or two. So are the tires most likely, but those are costs I’ve accepted. If I jump the car for 20-40 minutes, it’ll hold enough spark to start (every 6-7 months my landlord moves his boat in/out of the space behind our driveway and that means pulling out the car). And if I run it for a while it’ll build up stored power for at least a couple of days. But in short order the battery eventually goes. One thing I didn’t mention is that the summer before COVID, after the car had already been sitting for the better part of a year, I did get it back up and running and drove it up and down the MA north shore that summer, so it did get regular use somewhat recently. Since then tho, it’s been turned on and moved maybe a total of five times (but every one of those times has entailed at least letting the car run for a good long while), and not since last spring.
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Dec 29, 2021 18:08
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Ok Comboomer posted:Oh yeah, the battery’s hosed. Been hosed for at least a year or two. So are the tires most likely, but those are costs I’ve accepted. That's promising. This sounds like good project thread fodder too.
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Dec 30, 2021 01:26
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AI you need to save me from a literal gruesome death: I got a piece of poo poo grand marquis a couple of years ago for general grocery fetching purposes. At the time I lived in Baltimore and was 10 minutes away from work on foot, so the car hardly got much use but did everything it really needed to do. Now I am moving cross country, and I'm currently stuck outside Denver. I realized as soon as I tried to really do some driving in the GM that the windshield was very badly scratched with very fine small scratches in the pattern of the wipers. The car is unuseably dangerous at night due to glare from scratches if I catch oncoming headlights or the like. Like I get giant streaks around the light source across my entire windshield. Now, I am currently 1500 miles from anything even resembling home base, and I really really need my windshield to be useable at night. I have a job starting Monday in San Francisco and currently winter has turbofucked virtually every road between me and there. Only driving during daylight hours is going to get me fired because I won't get to SF in time. TLDR: How do I deal with glare from windshield scratches? Solution needs to be something I can do RIGHT NOW, dropping my car at the mechanic for a week is not an option because I'm in the middle of a road trip. Do I rub wax on the windshield? Should I buy clear polarized lenses? Hail xenu 3 times while facing detroit? Edit: as a sidenote, if anyone's got a good idea of what the least worst route from Denver to SF is right now, please tell me. I seriously got no idea what to do. Drive to Albuquerque? Hope the I80 stays clear and drive via Wyoming? DearSirXNORMadam fucked around with this message at 02:41 on Dec 30, 2021 |
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Dec 30, 2021 02:36
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I would try some polarized lenses. If you have the funds, safelite can probably replace your windshield in the morning if you drive it to their shop You have 4 days to go 1250 miles or so. Even driving during only daylight hours you have time to get there.
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Dec 30, 2021 02:46
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skipdogg posted:I would try some polarized lenses. In MA, windshield replacements literally have to be fully covered by insurance. Not sure about other states, or WRT interstate travel. If “I can’t see out of it” isn’t enough to get you covered then maybe find a sharp rock and give it a good crack.... Safelite will turn over a job in under 2 hrs if you go early enough. I wouldn’t go to them for a car I truly cared about, but it sounds like the GM in question here is a hooptie on its way out.
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Dec 30, 2021 02:49
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80 in Wyoming sucks poo poo I got stuck there for two days because they shut it down for blowing snow. I’d take 70 and 50 and get on 80 in Fernley.
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Dec 30, 2021 03:33
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STR posted:It was... better, yeah. Had a little bit of a flat spot in power. Doesn't buck (it bucked once the other day, first time), it just feels like it loses some power for a few seconds - basically the same flat spot, but much worse now. Can you log TPS % for the heck of it?
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Dec 30, 2021 11:26
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C-Bangin' it 
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Anyone here speak german? I'm learning about the difference between powertrain and drivetrain, but in german this apparently translates to the same word (Antriebsstrang), and Wikipedia shows no german version for drivetrain. One place translates it as "Schaltgruppe", which would be something like "transmission group".
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Dec 30, 2021 15:19
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busalover posted:Anyone here speak german? I'm learning about the difference between powertrain and drivetrain, but in german this apparently translates to the same word (Antriebsstrang), and Wikipedia shows no german version for drivetrain. One place translates it as "Schaltgruppe", which would be something like "transmission group". I prefer to live in the world where the Germans don't have a word for everything.
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Dec 30, 2021 15:28
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busalover posted:Anyone here speak german? I'm learning about the difference between powertrain and drivetrain, but in german this apparently translates to the same word (Antriebsstrang), and Wikipedia shows no german version for drivetrain. One place translates it as "Schaltgruppe", which would be something like "transmission group". Antriebsstrang is the drivetrain. I'm not sure there is actually a word for powertrain where it includes the engine also. Outside of electrical switching Schaltgruppe is only used in a bicycle context. In any case the meaning is more like "switching group" and doesn't really apply to the drivetrain as a whole. If it were used in an automotive context it would only apply to a gearbox or maybe a H/L transfer case or something like that. I'm not a native speaker though and certainly no engineer so I might be wrong.
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Dec 30, 2021 16:57
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I've thought about selling my rally car and thus, my 4Runner since I wouldn't need a tow/recce vehicle, but aside from buying an old car, there aren't a lot of options for a small car anymore (and I already own an old RX-7). What are the smallest cars you can buy new in Canada these days? Preferably ones that aren't poo poo but I've owned plenty of poo poo cars so that's not a deal breaker. Coupe/2-seater probably but open to considering sedans and 5 doors.
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Dec 30, 2021 19:25
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MrOnBicycle posted:1998 Chevy S10. Update on the transmission fluid: I checked it warm and with the engine idling on level ground like the dip stick says to. The Fluid was in the whole operating zone and looked good and had no off smell. I actually drove the truck today more than for a minute and apart from the janky shift at idle, the truck shifts smooth for the most part. The engine moves quite a bit on start up though, so wouldn't surprise me if the mounts are toast. Was actually pretty quiet and civilized when traveling at speed. Oh and man it was nice to have a truck bed to haul poo poo to the recycling center. All in all I don't think the truck needs a tranny fluid change, but if anything I need the drat throttle plate restored as well as perhaps some engine mounts.
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Dec 30, 2021 19:27
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Thanks all, gonna get it to a Safelite when the snowstorm lets up
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Dec 30, 2021 19:57
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Mirconium posted:Thanks all, gonna get it to a Safelite when the snowstorm lets up That is by far the best/safest solution. Anything else would be impractical (like actually trying to polish it) with potentially bad results or just plain meh - like wax.......might work? Might not. Probably won't work anymore (and may make a total mess) after the very first time you need to use wiper fluid. Good luck and be safe.
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Dec 30, 2021 22:05
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hot cocoa on the couch posted:I've thought about selling my rally car and thus, my 4Runner since I wouldn't need a tow/recce vehicle, but aside from buying an old car, there aren't a lot of options for a small car anymore (and I already own an old RX-7). What are the smallest cars you can buy new in Canada these days? Preferably ones that aren't poo poo but I've owned plenty of poo poo cars so that's not a deal breaker. Coupe/2-seater probably but open to considering sedans and 5 doors. 5-door/hatchback It’s not brand new, but they made the Fiesta ST until 2019. Mine is smaller than a Mini Cooper, I love it so much. I want to keep it forever. Mini Coopers S themselves are quite plentiful and proven going back ~2 decades, there’s a lot of them out there. Honda Fits are way less fun than a FiST but probably way more reliable, and there’s actually a big tuning/racing scene for them. The new Civic owns bones but is probably too big for what you want. There’s gonna be an Integra based on it too if you like ugly things. There’s a fancy fancy new rally-bred Corolla hatch coming to Damnatio-Memoriae the Focus RS next year, might be too big and pricey for you but it will undoubtedly be really really good if the Yaris it shares all its guts with is anything to go by, and probably Toyota quality/reliability. There’s also stuff like the Fiat Abarth, etc which can be had hella cheap. But an Abarth is just a FiST with lower quality and reliability and a much smaller aftermarket and support, IMO. I assume that hatchbacks like GTI/R or Veloster N are too big. 2-door/convertible/coupe Otherwise, the ND Miata is basically the same size and weight as the original. It rules and you should buy one. I wish I had the means and space for one. I’d own it right now. There’s also a brand new BRZ/GR86 out and people really like it a lot. They did a good good job on it. You can have a RWD Subaru with Subaru build and reliability, or you can have a RWD Toyota with Subaru build and reliability. What a bargain. Joking aside, they seem to have done a good good job on it, and it’s arguably a way better and more livable daily than a Miata. Hi five. I assume that the American RWD performance cars, your Mustangs and Camaros, etc are all too big. Charger is kinda sorta medium-small I guess, but it’s no Neon/SRT (RCR is right, you should go get a Neon). Comedy option: used 1 or 2 Series I assume the Supra/Z4 are too big and expensive. Otherwise, I mean like Porsche exists and still makes Boxters, etc. I think they’re still making TTs. EV/wildcard BMW i3 is really small, really fun, and really cheap, if you really don’t need a lot of range HAVE I MISSED ANYTHING, THREAD?
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Dec 30, 2021 22:46
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Ok Comboomer posted:HAVE I MISSED ANYTHING, THREAD? 350/370Z!!
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Dec 30, 2021 22:50
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Enos Cabell posted:350/370Z!! OMG nissan’s been a flaming toilet for so long that I legit blanked on including them, even tho the new incoming Z is probably the best looking new car of the last 5 years, even with the incomplete-looking braceface  front
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Dec 30, 2021 22:56
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Kia Soul (EV) 
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Dec 30, 2021 22:57
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Mazda2
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Dec 30, 2021 23:39
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Mr. Wiggles posted:Mazda2 Mazda Motorsports will still sell you the B-Spec kit as well. Edit: Part # : 0000-10-2001-KT McTinkerson fucked around with this message at 00:16 on Dec 31, 2021 |
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Dec 31, 2021 00:06
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2007 Toyota Sienna FWD I was changing the rear brake pads and I was having a hell of a time getting the pads on after replacing the retainer clips. I cleaned the area with a wire brush and put some brake lube on the clips and the pad "ears". It was *very* tight to get the pads on, took quite a bit of pressure to get them seated. I recently did the front and they were nowhere near this hard to get on. 1. How tight is too tight? B. Did I gently caress up by applying to much force to seat the pads? III. If it shouldn't be so tight, how do you get the pads on?
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Jan 1, 2022 05:03
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