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Coydog posted:I like knowing that a mod like that is waiting for me down the road. Right now the SV still seems more than lively enough. Does it really reduce the whole throttle range to 1/4 turn around the grip? Isn't that like an on/off wide open throttle power switch? It stops you from having to reposition your hand when going WOT. It's a very cheap and universally loved mod. http://www.canyonchasers.net/shop/bike/r6-throttle.php
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Apr 28, 2014 04:57
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Coydog posted:Is there any reason why you don't want to get a riser plate, instead of entirely new rearsets? Riser plates are cheap (around 30 a pair) and varied enough to find the right one for you. Some have many points of adjustment, others just one. I'm pretty tall, so I use a 1" back 2" up plate that is flipped so my pegs are lowered. They work great and are unobtrusive. My rearsets were a bit hosed up when I got the bike from the previous owner, and I haven't done them any favors  . Think I'm at the stage where OEM parts are going to be at least as much as replacing both rearsets with aftermarket parts, not like OEM is cheap. I replaced my gear shift assembly with a cheap one from e-bay once already and was a bit underwhelmed with the quality, though I'm pretty happy with my e-bay levers so far.Going to gamble on the Danmotos and hope it ends up like the levers and not the gear shift assembly. 50% of the cost of Vortex or Woodcrafts + Risers is a good deal if it works out, reviews on the internet are mixed but some people have had good luck.
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Apr 28, 2014 05:18
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The nice thing about riser plates is that when the footpegs are made to sustain the entire weight of the bike ~for whatever reason~ the riser plates bend before the rearsets. It's way cheaper when the weakest link costs 15 instead of whatever rearset parts cost. Those danmotos look less substantial, but the levers don't take major pressures anyway. The pegs don't look long or grippy enough for my liking but it could be the photo. Either way, they look good enough for the task, and for 138 a pair I can't fault the choice. Noted in case I have to take that route down the road. Be sure to drop in and report what you think of them and how they work. xaarman, thanks for linking that info on the r6 levers. It had always been something I planned to look into "down the road" but for 11 bucks I might grab one to keep on hand for when I want to do the mod. Right now the throttle leaves nothing to be desired, and I welcome the long throw to dampen the trouble I can get in. When I get bored of the bike, this will be just the thing I need.
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Apr 28, 2014 05:55
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Hey thanks for the information and advice guys. The two listing are gone now unfortunately (well one is up, but no reply). Any thoughts on this http://denver.craigslist.org/mcy/4443897082.html ? edit: Or this one http://denver.craigslist.org/mcy/4444245561.html ? Is that a good price or what should I aim for? Thanks again! Radon fucked around with this message at 17:54 on Apr 28, 2014 |
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Apr 28, 2014 17:27
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Radon posted:Hey thanks for the information and advice guys. The two listing are gone now unfortunately (well one is up, but no reply). Both of those seem high to me price-wise, though they look to be in decent condition. If this is your first bike I'd try to find something a little rougher looking so you don't feel bad when you rough it up further. Generally not worth paying extra for a cosmetically perfect bike if you aren't likely to keep it that way. If you are going to look at them I'd go with the second one and see if you can talk him down because the valve check is coming up in about 300 miles and he surely hasn't had it done. At that mileage it's likely to need an adjustment as well which is either a fair amount of time or several hundred at a mechanic depending on how many valves need to be adjusted. Nakeds also hold together better if you do have a low speed drop or something. I got the 650s for my first bike and think I'd have liked the naked better, but up to you if you want the more aggressive riding position. Also budget for frame sliders if you get the naked since it doesn't have any. For reference I got my 2005 for $2400 with similar miles to the naked about 6 months ago. Hard to say how the conditions compare but my bike wasn't *that* bad off, not 600 dollars worth of damage, anyway.
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Apr 28, 2014 18:31
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M. Night Skymall posted:Both of those seem high to me price-wise Thanks for the information. I kind of had the same feeling. Should I expect to pay a little more than you did proportionally due to the time of year though? I'll definitely mention the upcoming maintenance, and see if either is willing to move on the price at all. I'm very much in a "Buy now!" mode, but I know I'll probably be better off shopping around a little bit more.
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Apr 28, 2014 19:26
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Radon posted:Thanks for the information. I kind of had the same feeling. Should I expect to pay a little more than you did proportionally due to the time of year though? I'll definitely mention the upcoming maintenance, and see if either is willing to move on the price at all. I'm not really sure, I bought in October in Texas which is pretty amazing riding weather, but it's definitely the tail of the season. Even so both of those guys are like $600 above KBB.
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Apr 28, 2014 20:16
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I concur with M. Night Skymall. You'll be happier with a rougher bike for your first bike. Those prices seem a bit high, but 2600 would be more reasonable for you and them. I want to know how that first guy is getting 100 a year to insure. I pay 100 a month with lib mutual because "that's just calculated based on the bike, sir". Coydog fucked around with this message at 20:43 on Apr 28, 2014 |
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Apr 28, 2014 20:39
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Is it worth upgrading from a Ninja 250 -> a SV650? I've been riding my Ninja 250 for 2 years now. I'm planning to do a multi week motorcycle trip this summer with some friends and I know the Ninja 250 will be a pain to ride for the trip. I was thinking of getting a 600 supersport bike, but the riding position is what deters me. I'm also jealous of how cheap you guys can get SV650s for. In Seattle, SV 650s go for $3000+ even for older <2005 models.
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Apr 29, 2014 02:14
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Rabid Snake posted:I'm also jealous of how cheap you guys can get SV650s for. In Seattle, SV 650s go for $3000+ even for older <2005 models.  
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Apr 29, 2014 05:11
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Rabid Snake posted:Is it worth upgrading from a Ninja 250 -> a SV650? I've been riding my Ninja 250 for 2 years now. I'm planning to do a multi week motorcycle trip this summer with some friends and I know the Ninja 250 will be a pain to ride for the trip. I was thinking of getting a 600 supersport bike, but the riding position is what deters me. That's the move I made, couldn't be happier.
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Apr 29, 2014 14:59
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How important is a title when purchasing a used motorcycle? I'm taking the MSF early next month and I've been eyeing a used SV650 as my first bike.
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Apr 29, 2014 15:02
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Spankydoodle posted:How important is a title when purchasing a used motorcycle? I'm taking the MSF early next month and I've been eyeing a used SV650 as my first bike. You won't be (legally) riding it on the street without a title. In some states you can get a bonded title where you pay a company to basically insure the bike's value and they provide you a title. If you're looking at an SV with title issues just walk away. They're way too common to deal with that kind of bs from a seller.
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Apr 29, 2014 15:08
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Thanks for the heads up.
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Apr 29, 2014 15:12
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Yeah, for your first bike, don't mess around with missing title issues.
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Apr 29, 2014 16:29
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Rabid Snake posted:Is it worth upgrading from a Ninja 250 -> a SV650? I've been riding my Ninja 250 for 2 years now. I'm planning to do a multi week motorcycle trip this summer with some friends and I know the Ninja 250 will be a pain to ride for the trip. I was thinking of getting a 600 supersport bike, but the riding position is what deters me. That was my upgrade path - Ninja 250 to an SV650. It is definitely worth it. Just make sure you budget for an aftermarket seat to save your balls.
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Apr 29, 2014 20:05
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Did the R6 throttle tube mod today. The canyon chasers article claims that you need to modify the R6 tube for a 2nd gen sv650s but I didn't do anything but stick it on there and everything worked perfectly, adjusted fine with no change in RPMs from lock to lock. On the other hand my right clip-on is definitely different from the left one so maybe I have a first gen SV650s handlebar on there . Regardless, definitely feels nicer than my slightly chewed up poorly adjusted throttle tube I had on it previously but that's kind of a low bar. Was easy to do so would recommend since pinning the throttle with the stock tube is really awkward and I definitely didn't feel any loss of fine control/twitchiness from the change.
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Apr 29, 2014 20:24
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The way quarter turn throttles work is basically the first 20% is pretty much the same, and the latter 80% is shorter. And you never really needed to be just exactly 65% throttle, so being pinned there is usually fine.
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Apr 29, 2014 22:04
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Stupid question, does the R6 throttle mod only work on the non-naked bike. I've been considering it for my naked but wasn't sure if it'd work.
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May 1, 2014 22:54
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ReformedNiceGuy posted:Stupid question, does the R6 throttle mod only work on the non-naked bike. I've been considering it for my naked but wasn't sure if it'd work. I think it's actually an easier direct replacement for the naked, on the S model the position of the cables makes it trickier to adjust on second gens, supposedly. Mine's a 2nd gen sv650s and I didn't notice anything like that but whatever. http://www.canyonchasers.net/shop/bike/r6-throttle.php goes over all the details.
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May 1, 2014 23:00
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M. Night Skymall posted:Did the R6 throttle tube mod today. The canyon chasers article claims that you need to modify the R6 tube for a 2nd gen sv650s but I didn't do anything but stick it on there and everything worked perfectly, adjusted fine with no change in RPMs from lock to lock. On the other hand my right clip-on is definitely different from the left one so maybe I have a first gen SV650s handlebar on there You do need to cut off a bit... compare the one you removed to your new one - the plastic "stop" is closer and does not allow you to access full open throttle. Right now it's going all the way to the stop, but it's not actually as open as the throttle could be. If you hold the old throttle tube up next to the new one, it's pretty self explanatory.
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May 2, 2014 03:21
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xaarman posted:You do need to cut off a bit... compare the one you removed to your new one - the plastic "stop" is closer and does not allow you to access full open throttle. Right now it's going all the way to the stop, but it's not actually as open as the throttle could be. Oh, the way canyon chasers explains it is that it won't close the throttle fully, which it obviously does. Guess I'll take it off and shave it down then, or at least look at what it's doing at the throttle bodies.
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May 2, 2014 04:55
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Please let me know what you find out. What xaarman says seems logical, but I'm lazy and would love to install this to my N with zero effort. PSA Reminder- Yoshimura exhausts sound like heaven and hell blended in perfect harmony.
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May 2, 2014 05:52
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I ordered one for my N after my post up there. I'll post an update once it's arrived and installed 
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May 2, 2014 19:59
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So I received my replacement fuel pump from ebay and installed it. Everything went pretty smooth aside from my new scratches on my already hosed up tank (man the paint on these things is pretty fragile...) Went to crank the bike, turned the key for the first time and heard the pump prime and the diagnostic lights flash like it always does. Cranked the bike a bit and it wouldn't start. No big deal I thought, since it'll probably take a bit of cranking for it to get fuel through the new pump. So I hit the kill switch and tried again. I did this several times and noticed that it no longer displays diagnostic lights or primes the pump. Even after I opened the tank (and heard it depressurize) it does not make the pump-priming noise I'm used to hearing. How can I trick the bike into doing that again? I don't want to just keep cranking it. I checked and didn't see any fuel leaking. And since I heard the pump prime the first time I turned the key I don't think its entirely dead.
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May 3, 2014 23:06
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Got my Danmoto rearsets installed and tooled around town for 30 or 40 miles to try them out. I really like them. Admittedly I don't have anything to compare them to and it's entirely possible they'll fall apart really fast or something but at least right after installation they feel solid and everything works great. It even comes with a spring that works with the stock rear brake light sensor so I didn't lose my rear brake light. I'm fairly tiny so the new riding position is significantly more comfortable for me. There're a few negatives, it isn't quite as adjustable as it appears because the rear brake cylinder will hit if you go up and back as far as possible on the plate, and the shifter rod will hit if you go up too far, so in the end I have them 1 down and 1 forward from the furthest back/up setting possible. Once I set it up like that everything lined up perfectly and it installed pretty solid. I guess it's possible something will loosen up over time or whatever but I used red locktite on basically everything and everything feels really good at the moment. Shifting is smoother than it was on my bent up stock rearsets (not saying much) and the rear brake works fine. The other weird issue I'm having is catching my left boot on the little carbon fiber heel guards, but I assume over time I'll adjust to that and it doesn't happen very frequently. I'd say for the price I'm really happy with it, I'm sure in a wreck it'll explode but I could still buy two sets and not have paid for a name brand set, and you still have to replace parts on those when you wreck so it doesn't seem like that big a deal. I also haven't used a woodcraft or other big name rearset so I may just not know what I'm missing. Biggest weak point is that I have to position my foot totally differently to get my kickstand down and riding up on my bike and spending 30 seconds flailing around with my left foot trying to get the stand down is embarrassing as all hell. It's also possible I just happened to get lucky with a non-lovely part because it's pretty likely that the QC on these things is minimal.
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May 4, 2014 06:55
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ReformedNiceGuy posted:I ordered one for my N after my post up there. I'll post an update once it's arrived and installed I go this done today with time for a quick blast round my favourite local loop. Installation took about forty minutes, probably twenty if which was filing down and sanding the extra bit off the R6 throttle - I really need a dremel! Make sure to adjust your cables, with the R6 tube being wider you'll need to add some extra slack so your throttle doesn't stick. On the road it took me a few minutes to notice the difference, it's certainly not a night and day thing, low speed through villages and it feels very similar to the stock throttle. It did seem to smooth out my low speed gear changes though, I have a habit of occasionally not quite adding enough throttle after a shift and this seemed to help with that. I did find myself accidentally speeding a couple of times, it seems the muscle memory in my wrist for 30 with the stock tube equated to about 40 with the new one. On the national speed limit roads the difference is much more readily apparent, no need to adjust your grip or contort oddly for WOT, corner exit is way more fun yet I don't seem to have lost any fine control for mid corner adjustments- one of my favourite corners is a long left hander that goes from 60 to 50 back to 70 before the exit All in all I recommend it, even if you find you don't like it sticking your old tube back on will only take about fifteen minutes! ReformedNiceGuy fucked around with this message at 16:34 on May 4, 2014 |
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May 4, 2014 16:27
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ADINSX posted:So I received my replacement fuel pump from ebay and installed it. Everything went pretty smooth aside from my new scratches on my already hosed up tank (man the paint on these things is pretty fragile...) Removed the battery to throw it on the charger this morning, figured it couldn't hurt. Checked the fuses and the one labeled "fuel" had blown. I checked out the pump and re-plugged in the power connector, this time I heard it distinctly *snap* in where as last time I didn't (I was sort of at a weird angle, might not have plugged it in all the way) I'm hoping if I try again it will fire up, but a bit worried that I blew a fuse, is there any real risk to trying again?
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May 4, 2014 16:58
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ReformedNiceGuy posted:R6 throttle That's good to hear. I've been wanting to do it, but I was worried it would make around-the-town driving annoying. As for my SV, I just plasti-dipped the wheels to cover up the PO's awful paint job, and I think they look pretty drat good for what amounted to almost no prep and $9 in paint. Definitely recommended if someones looking for a cheap way to paint. ADINSX posted:Removed the battery to throw it on the charger this morning, figured it couldn't hurt. Checked the fuses and the one labeled "fuel" had blown. I checked out the pump and re-plugged in the power connector, this time I heard it distinctly *snap* in where as last time I didn't (I was sort of at a weird angle, might not have plugged it in all the way) Nope, you'll just blow another fuse if something is haywire. That'll at least help narrow down what's going on.
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May 4, 2014 17:02
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AncientTV posted:That's good to hear. I've been wanting to do it, but I was worried it would make around-the-town driving annoying. so "nope" as in there is little to no risk?
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May 4, 2014 17:16
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ADINSX posted:so "nope" as in there is little to no risk? Change the fuse of course, and if there's grounding or shorting issues the fuse will just pop again.
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May 4, 2014 17:31
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ADINSX posted:so "nope" as in there is little to no risk? Yeah, sorry, that's what I meant. Give it another shot with a new fuse and see what happens.
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May 4, 2014 20:56
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AncientTV posted:Yeah, sorry, that's what I meant. Give it another shot with a new fuse and see what happens. Well, i did, and then I did again... and its just a bum pump. I contacted the seller but noticed on his page that it says "no refunds" or some such, so I'm not hopeful. Then I got impatient, and started tearing into the pump assemblies. I figured if the new pump is inoperable but has a cleaner filter, I could use the filter from it and just attach it to the old pump. Tearing into the "new" pump its clear that it has been sitting for quite some time... only one thousand miles! and years and years of sitting idle in fuel. So... A couple of questions: Can I try running hot water through the high pressure fuel filter to try and clean it a bit? Will that be ok so long as I let it dry out? Do you think the "new" filter will be cleaner than the old one. Its hard to see inside these things, but assuming the "new" pump only had 1000 miles, but was sitting for awhile, there should be less stuff jammed in the filter. On the other hand, corrosion could have built up? I don't know.
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May 4, 2014 21:38
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If the ad said "working pump" and it's not, then you can get a refund for item not as described.
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May 4, 2014 21:49
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 Apparently the tank has a drain to remove pooled water from around the tank opening. Apparently there was a crack in that line, which allowed water to enter the tank on the bike. The mechanic told me the cheapest way to remedy this problem, without replacing the tank, was to just seal that line and be careful to not let any water in while refueling. Now I have a couple of questions: 1. Given that some water has likely been through the bike's system at this point, what kind of long-term damage might be done? I have ridden through the rain several times, and experienced some engine sputtering as a result, presumably when water managed to enter the tank. 2. Can water enter the tank through the keyhole area while I ride? Is there anything I should be doing now that the whole drainage preventative measure is removed from the equation?
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May 6, 2014 10:18
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SV's are well known to cut out in the rain due to the front spark plug getting wet. This is probably what you experienced. I think you're fine - get a cover for it if you think storing it outside is an issue in the rain. Adding some fuel stabilizer will help remove a bit of the water if you don't want to turn the tank over and dump it.
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May 6, 2014 16:25
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fuel pump issues look sorted. Cleaned the sort of baggie filter in front of the pump (there were visible chunks of god knows what in it, gross) and swapped out the high pressure fuel filter from the non working pump, now no more high pitched squeal! The bike might also rev a bit more freely? I know how much bias goes into observations like that, maybe I was just riding harder because I was excited. But the squeal is defiantly gone, for now anyway.
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May 6, 2014 18:09
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Rabid Snake posted:I'm also jealous of how cheap you guys can get SV650s for. In Seattle, SV 650s go for $3000+ even for older <2005 models. It's a hit or miss thing. I bought my '04 naked with ~28k miles on it in relatively good shape for $1900 up near Northgate. Guy needed to get rid of it to pay for some wedding costs, and it had clearly been dropped at low speed and needed some really mild parts replaced. He was looking for $2800, I offered $1900 cash on the spot. Really just need to know what you're looking at, condition wise, and be willing to walk away from 100% of the bikes you see. I've also bought an 88 Hawk GT here for $900 with about the same mileage, really was just about looking for several months and walking away from a bunch of bikes before finally buying. I also generally only buy in the October/November period when we start getting rainy again, which helps a lot.
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May 12, 2014 23:05
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Clutch line snapped right at the handlebar and now im trying to find a replacement. Only thing i found in my area (finland) was Motion Pro MPR-04-0334. Only problem is that it's out of stock and has a 2-4 weeks order time. They have some stock but they are for the naked model (MPR-04-0220) and supposedly dont't work on the S? Are there more options that fit to 2001 sv650S? edit: i also have no idea what i am doing but i'll try to fix it myself before i start calling for help. edit: year model is 2000 but i dont think it matters. 1gen anyway. Barfolemew fucked around with this message at 11:12 on May 13, 2014 |
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May 13, 2014 11:04
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NVM google fu helped and i found one from england. OEM 58200-19F00 or motion pro 04-0334 both fit Gen1 sv650s. Ordered the oem one.
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May 13, 2014 12:36
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