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Jadunk posted:1- measure from the finished wall to the closet bolts.
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Mar 12, 2015 17:31
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My entire list of plumbing-related tasks just got shelved because it was so stupidly warm out yesterday that about half a winter's worth of snow melted in one afternoon, but is still sitting on top of 6" of ice, which has led to several inches of water sitting on my patio, which found a way down between that slab and the foundation, which eventually found a way over to my sump, and is now coming in at roughly three times the rate the sump pump can handle. Suspecting the sump drain pipe might be frozen up somewhere, I dug it up outside and cut through it, and am now draining the sump out over the yard, gently caress it, at least I know it's going. That did nothing to abate the flow, so everything was fine there. I then dug out one of the drainage tiles in the back yard, which has already dropped the water level out there by an inch, so I am at least advancing on the problem. The tile I REALLY need to clear, though, is under, in turn: 2" ice, 12" ice water slurry, 6" ice. So I can't see poo poo to actually find it, and probing is almost useless because there's a super thick layer of ice on the ground under the water. If I can find that tile, I win. In the mean time, I have several gallons per minute flowing up out of my sump, through a doorway, out across the basement floor, and over to the sewer drain in the middle of the floor. It was recommend that I buy a second sump pump, run some pipe from that over to the sewer drain, and try to clear it that way, but honestly, I think I'm going to focus more on clearing the ice dam out back. Surprisingly, I'm not at all broken up about this, it's actually put me in a pretty chipper mood, I have no idea why, maybe my brain actually snapped. Nothing in the basement was damaged except some old cardboard boxes, and at the very least, it forced me to finally clean up a junk pile that turned out to ACTUALLY BE JUST JUNK, so that's fantastic. Once it's dry down there, it'll be quite a nice space again at my basement workbench. So I'm going to go put my boots back on, grab a spade shovel, and go wading around in a couple feet of ice water looking for a drainage tile. Spring is here, guys!
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Mar 12, 2015 19:02
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Bad Munki posted:Spring is here, guys! You ever heard of a groundhog that saw his shadow? Seriously, you might just want to wait a few weeks.
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Mar 13, 2015 04:45
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Zhentar posted:The expansion systems are generally regarded as superior, since they have less flow restriction at the fittings and the connections are harder to screw up. But the tools are much more expensive and the fittings and tubing aren't as readily available to DIY'ers. The crimp ring and cinch clamp systems work just fine; you should go with them unless you really like spending extra money for things that are "the best" but don't have any reasonable payoff. On the other hand around here homeowners / handymen can rent the nice Milwaukee pex tool (or comparable corded from some other brand) for 40-50 bucks from any of the local plumbing vendors. (ferguson/general/cal steam) insta posted:What happens if I leave 1/4" vinyl tubing pressurized at 50-70 PSI (house water pressure) all day? That's OK right? It's under a sink, not being used for an ice maker. There should be a pressure rating listed on the tubing itself, check that and see. That said, I generally would avoid leaving vinyl tubing pressurized for long periods. SkunkDuster posted:From the wall tile to the center of the bolt on the upstairs toilet is 11 3/4". Looking at the spec sheet it looks like you could get away with an 11 1/4" rough in. Depending on the tolerance, it seems like I will have 1/2"-1"gap behind the lid with my 11 3/4" rough in. Am I interpreting that correctly? Yep! With MOST toilets the tank sits furthest back, so even if you have giant 1.5" thick baseboard that makes it a 10.5" measurement from there to bolts you can still fit a 12" rough toilet in there.
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Mar 13, 2015 05:51
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kid sinister posted:You ever heard of a groundhog that saw his shadow? Seriously, you might just want to wait a few weeks. Not going to wait a couple weeks for that deluge of water to depart. The mold alone would destroy the house in that time. Nah, I got it all taken care of, things are rapidly approaching dry. The main problem was that the drainage tiles in the back yard had ice dams on them which was keeping the massive lake in the back yard from draining anywhere except onto the patio, where it had found a way between the foundation and the patio slab, and eventually worked its way over to the sump pit. There was so much water coming in, it was absolutely absurd. Fortunately, the sewer drain in the center of the floor was able to handle it. Otherwise, instead of a couple inches of fast flowing water, I would have had several feet of still water. There was so much water that, after we confirmed the sump pump was working perfectly, turning it on and off made zero visible difference in the amount coming in. Two sump pumps wouldn't have even come close to handling it. Three might have made a visible difference, but still would have been overcome. Once I got the drainage tiles expose, which was fun trying to find that thing through a couple feet of snow/ice slurry and under a 6" slab of ice covering the entire yard (the slab was on the ground with the water/ice on top), everything started draining insanely fast. Within an hour the water level had receded and the patio started drying out and the level in the sump pit lowered. I'll post pictures and video a little later, but the short version is mission accomplished.
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Mar 13, 2015 14:23
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So my tub/shower faucet is one of those single handle dealies that as you turn it, the water warms up. It has now decided to break, and the handle turns freely, maybe trickling out some water here and there. So the internet says take off the handle and replace the cartridge with one that fits your brand. My attempts to do so have been a comedy of errors. I have no idea what brand it is. There are no markings on it (unless "H C OFF" is a brand name  ), and it's likely that it's low quality, builder grade crap like every other original fixture in this house. (built in 2002)So last night I look it up online and decide I should take out the set screw to remove the handle, remove the cartridge, find a replacement, replace it, and then go on with life. Problem is, that set screw was a hex wrench screw that was stripped to be completely round. So I drilled it out with some drill bits, and ended up with a partial success. The screw head got plucked out, but enough of the screw shaft remains in place so I cannot remove the handle  I'm not sure I can remove it, and I'm guessing that at least the cartridge/shaft protruding from the wall and the handle are scrap metal at this point. What's next? Do I try using a larger drill bit to ream out the screw hole, or should I hacksaw through the shaft/cartridge under the escutcheon to pull that out? Once I get that, do I take the wreckage to Lowes/Home Depot/a plumbing supply place and get a replacement? I'll post some pictures when I get home, but man, this is really stressing me out and I'm afraid I'm going to have to call a real professional to cut a hole in my wall and install a new faucet 
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Mar 18, 2015 22:04
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canyoneer posted:So my tub/shower faucet is one of those single handle dealies that as you turn it, the water warms up. You could try your luck with a spiral screw extractor. That handle is probably toast at this point. What material is your shower handle made of? You might have luck breaking it off if it's plastic.
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Mar 18, 2015 22:22
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kid sinister posted:You could try your luck with a spiral screw extractor. It is very much metal. Any ideas on sourcing replacement parts for a mystery faucet? I don't even know where to begin.
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Mar 18, 2015 22:33
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canyoneer posted:It is very much metal. It's pot metal. I would start by getting a Dremel and using a cutting wheel to cut what's left of the set screw down to the stem. Wear goggles, those wheels break like nothing. Also, once you get the cartridge out, take it to any big box hardware store. With the stem end, you should at least be able to track down which manufacturer made your shower valve based on which of the handles they have will fit on your cartridge stem. Both Home Depot and Lowes typically have a big book from Danco full of cartridges complete with pictures. Start from the length with the chart off to side of the book, then flip through the chapter of the book for that length until you find a match. Once your find a match, check out what they have in stock there. If they don't have a match, at least you now have a part number to search for on the internet.
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Mar 19, 2015 06:37
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Thanks for the advice. I should note though that the set screw is recessed about an inch inside the handle. No way a dreamer wheel is getting there. I guess I'll go nuts with a drill and see what happens
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Mar 19, 2015 07:15
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canyoneer posted:Thanks for the advice. I should note though that the set screw is recessed about an inch inside the handle. No way a dreamer wheel is getting there. I guess I'll go nuts with a drill and see what happens As mentioned before, try a screw extracting bit.
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Mar 19, 2015 13:54
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canyoneer posted:Thanks for the advice. I should note though that the set screw is recessed about an inch inside the handle. No way a dreamer wheel is getting there. I guess I'll go nuts with a drill and see what happens ...and? Screw the handle, you're not salvaging it. Cut it away until you can reach the screw. Handles are extremely to replace compared to a shower valve.
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Mar 20, 2015 04:48
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Learned a lot of things about the shower handle. It's a Moen, and the handle connects to the cartridge via a plastic adapter. Why not spend the extra $1 on the part and make it invincible, I cannot say. I ended up drilling it out and got a full metal generic replacement at HD. Thanks dudes
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Mar 21, 2015 17:14
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Getting ready to install my new toilet in my gay pink bathroom and I have decided that I'm going to replace the shutoff valve as well. I found one on Amazon by BrassCraft, but the reviews said it was a piece of poo poo that falls apart. Can anyone recommend a good one I can order along with a replacement trim plate (or whatever you call that circular part that covers the hole in the wall)?
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Mar 21, 2015 19:07
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SkunkDuster posted:Getting ready to install my new toilet in my gay pink bathroom and I have decided that I'm going to replace the shutoff valve as well. I found one on Amazon by BrassCraft, but the reviews said it was a piece of poo poo that falls apart. Can anyone recommend a good one I can order along with a replacement trim plate (or whatever you call that circular part that covers the hole in the wall)? http://amzn.com/B003B6FKVY This one? Get a quarter turn, the kind pictured are useless. I only have 2 left in my house, I just got lazy and never got around to doing them.
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Mar 21, 2015 22:37
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That was the one I was looking at with the bad reviews.
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Mar 22, 2015 00:24
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Yeah, you want the one with the metal internals. Look up and see if you have a Cal-Steam, WCHI, Ferguson, Pace or some other plumbing supply vendor near you. They should be able to get you one with metal internals with a huge run around.
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Mar 22, 2015 01:03
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PuTTY riot posted:http://amzn.com/B003B6FKVY I'm not certain, but judging from the picture, you'd need a 1/2" FIP/3/8" compression valve. Could we get a better picture of the valve please? Also, the ring that goes around it is called an "escutcheon". They're available in several styles and installation types.
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Mar 22, 2015 17:52
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I believe you're right about the dimensions. I measured the output hole and it measures 1/2" across, but it attaches to a 3/8" hose. I'm not too worried about that right now, I just mainly want to know a good brand (or specific part number) that I can order and be confident that the valve I get will be good quality. I'd rather spend $40 on something that will last a lifetime instead of $8 on something that breaks the first time I try to shut the water off. From studying woodworking, I knew "escutcheon" as the thing that goes around a keyhole. Didn't realize the part I was asking about was called the same thing. Makes sense, though.
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Mar 25, 2015 03:48
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SkunkDuster posted:I believe you're right about the dimensions. I measured the output hole and it measures 1/2" across, but it attaches to a 3/8" hose. I'm not too worried about that right now, I just mainly want to know a good brand (or specific part number) that I can order and be confident that the valve I get will be good quality. I'd rather spend $40 on something that will last a lifetime instead of $8 on something that breaks the first time I try to shut the water off. I am a fan of the Dahl quarter turn ball valves. Have installed many of them without issues and they are only $8-10. http://www.rona.ca/en/angle-ball-valve-3624007
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Mar 25, 2015 06:13
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SkunkDuster posted:From studying woodworking, I knew "escutcheon" as the thing that goes around a keyhole. Didn't realize the part I was asking about was called the same thing. Makes sense, though. Oh, there are tons of parts named "escutcheon" out there, and they all are decorative elements used to cover behind or go around things. Guess what those rings are around fire sprinkler heads are called?
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Mar 26, 2015 20:02
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Can anyone tell me the model number or a replacement part for this? http://imgur.com/a/2gHMr It's a delta cartridge, but i can't find a model number and nothing on their website that has that metal tip. --- The replacement part is a RP19804. I got it fixed. moctopus fucked around with this message at 17:12 on Mar 27, 2015 |
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Mar 27, 2015 16:03
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moctopus posted:Can anyone tell me the model number or a replacement part for this? http://imgur.com/a/2gHMr Word of warning to anyone pulling apart a delta monitor, there are multiple cartridges that look strikingly similar. Despite doing this poo poo for a living it's one of the few I will still take the part with me to the store and I would advise you do the same if you tangle with it.
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Mar 28, 2015 06:05
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I'm looking at replacing a busted sillcock with a newer frost proof sillcock. Here's what it looks like from the crawlspace: The leak is between the faucet and where the sillcock and CPVC join. When turned on, water comes out of the hole in the brick and runs into the crawlspace. My question is this: Can I replace this myself by cutting the CPVC and fitting the new sillcock in or should I have a plumber do it? If I can do it, is there any reason I couldn't use sharkbite and PEX to make this easier than right-angled CPVC?
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Mar 28, 2015 19:14
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pseudonordic posted:My question is this: Can I replace this myself by cutting the CPVC and fitting the new sillcock in or should I have a plumber do it? As always, depends on how handy you are. It is a pretty simple fix, just make sure the installation is done per manufacturer specs. (we don't have frost free silcocks out here, but if memory serves they need to be slightly angled to slope towards the exterior) I would avoid using sharkbite as a general rule. Sometimes they are the only thing feasible due to access problems but when you've got plenty of room avoid them. They have a bad habit of starting to leak if things shift and pressure is put on them as such I would recommend instead using a PEXxCPVC adapter of some sort.
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Mar 28, 2015 20:54
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Jadunk posted:Sometimes they are the only thing feasible due to access problems but when you've got plenty of room avoid them. Sharkbites are also nice sometimes for copper plumbing in instances where using a torch to solder would be dangerous. But I agree, they should always be used as a final option.
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Mar 29, 2015 20:27
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kid sinister posted:Sharkbites are also nice sometimes for copper plumbing in instances where using a torch to solder would be dangerous. But I agree, they should always be used as a final option. Yeah, but that's really, really rare between heat shields, cool gel and correctly sized torch tips it is extraordinarily uncommon for me to not be able to solder due to safety concerns. Typically I use sharkbites for short term repairs; getting the water back on / leak stopped so that the job can be scheduled for another day / normal business hours etc OR when the fix needs to hold for a few months while they schedule someone to come in and remove ducting / electrical / other poo poo in my way. Oh, sharkbites are also loving awesome for T&P drain lines when you're swapping a water heater.
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Mar 29, 2015 20:55
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 This is what I see in the water meter box in my front yard. It doesn't appear to be a typical vale that a standard water key fits. Any clues as to what it is? Looks like a hex nut base with a threaded flathead screw top?
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Apr 23, 2015 22:28
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pseudonordic posted:
That appears to be a PRV (pressure regulating valve) and what you are looking at is the adjustment screw. Notice the "SET XXX PSI" thing on the tag.
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Apr 23, 2015 23:12
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I've been doing baby's first plumbing (the entire valve system needs to be changed on all 3 of our toilets) and I completed the first one with no problems, but the second... I reconnected the water supply line and, when I turned it on, water began to spray from the part where the silver meets the plastic twist part  I'm assuming I hosed it up somehow, unless water spraying from there indicates that I hosed up someplace else. I know how to replace a water supply connector, but the other end appears to actually be a part of the shut off valve. What do I do? Edit: I screwed it back on just now and everything's fine. I'm not even sure what I did differently. Okay then, in the event that I need to replace one of those, what would I do? Would I have to replace the whole shut off valve? Palisader fucked around with this message at 02:45 on Apr 28, 2015 |
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Apr 28, 2015 02:37
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There are a couple plastic twist parts, can you draw an arrow where the water is coming from? If water is coming from the valve stem (round metal tube part attached to the valve handle) then the packing nut that surrounds the stem can be tightened to stop a leak at that spot.
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Apr 28, 2015 02:44
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sirr0bin posted:There are a couple plastic twist parts, can you draw an arrow where the water is coming from? It was coming from the end that screws onto the toilet tank, though I edited my post because it's working now for reasons that are completely beyond me.
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Apr 28, 2015 02:47
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Palisader posted:It was coming from the end that screws onto the toilet tank, though I edited my post because it's working now for reasons that are completely beyond me. Oh the part that screws onto the toilet? There is a washer in there that doesn't always seat properly when reused. That looks like a pretty old toilet riser/supply, I would replace it with a new braided line for piece of mind. Should be $5. Edit: The riser hose should not be part of the valve, it should unscrew seperately. The valve looks like a common Brass Craft and it should have a 3/8 male threaded port for the riser. sirr0bin fucked around with this message at 02:51 on Apr 28, 2015 |
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Apr 28, 2015 02:49
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Alright, moving over from the quick question Thread: Putting a shower in a bathroom that HAS no shower. How hard is it//what's the cost? One of the bathrooms in the house I'm moving into has a tub, but no shower. The kitchen is also carpeted. Thanks, 1950s-1960s. 
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May 2, 2015 13:11
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Without knowing anything about the bathroom other than it has a tub and doesn't have a shower, it's a matter of opening up the wall where the water supplies are, tearing out the existing faucets, replacing it with a modern temp control since you're already inside the wall and then running a pipe up to where the shower head pokes out. Not too bad if you've done plumbing work before. Lots of measuring and making sure pipes are secure. http://www.rona.ca/en/faucet---bathroom-faucet-1502197--1 Plus pipe and a 1/2" 90* female IPS fitting for the shower head nipple to screw into. Then whatever you want to spend putting the wall back together and finishing it.
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May 2, 2015 15:04
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Freakbox posted:Alright, moving over from the quick question Thread: Whats underneath: Slab, basement or crawlspace?
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May 2, 2015 16:51
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And alternatively, is the tub situated in such a way that you could just add a diverter and showerhead?
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May 3, 2015 01:28
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Thanks to the advice from this thread, I got the new toilet installed in my gay pink bathroom. Next step is to relocate the toilet I removed down to the cellar to replace the hosed up on down there. There is no shutoff valve for that toilet so I plan to install one. Since all the plumbing is exposed and I don't give a poo poo about it looking pretty, would I be better off installing a ball valve than the standard toilet shutoff valve? I just ask because it seems like ball valves are a lot more durable and less prone to rusting and leaking.
Skunkduster fucked around with this message at 06:16 on May 3, 2015 |
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May 3, 2015 06:12
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SkunkDuster posted:Thanks to the advice from this thread, I got the new toilet installed in my gay pink bathroom. Next step is to relocate the toilet I removed down to the cellar to replace the hosed up on down there. There is no shutoff valve for that toilet so I plan to install one. Since all the plumbing is exposed and I don't give a poo poo about it looking pretty, would I be better off installing a ball valve than the standard toilet shutoff valve? I just ask because it seems like ball valves are a lot more durable and less prone to rusting and leaking. Do both! Instead of the crappy plastic "standard" shutoff valve with a rising stem, replace it with a ball valve shut off like: http://www.rona.ca/en/ball-valve-3624004 Toilet risers require a 3/8" fitting on the valve end so this should satisfy all of your requirements.
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May 3, 2015 14:45
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| # ? Jun 6, 2024 21:37 |
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Also use a ss braided line from the valve to the toilet
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May 3, 2015 14:52
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