Medieval Medic posted:Quick question, can a lens have a significant effect on white balance? The lens' effect on colors is generally limited to saturation levels, local contrast and potentially some separation between shades. What I'd say is more likely is that the camera's auto-white balance got confused by some elements that happened to be in some of the pictures, which happens. Chance is, if you shot RAW then you can simply adjust the white balance to be the same in all the pictures and everything will be fine.
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# ? Apr 20, 2016 17:43 |
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# ? Jun 11, 2024 07:40 |
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Only time I've had a lens throw colours off was when I had some really ancient tamron superzoom and the coating on it had gone off, so pictures ended up with a odd orange or green hue. It was very noticeable on the lens itself though. It does sound like, as nielsm said, that there is another factor, maybe a lamp or an energy saving light bulb the camera is confused by?
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# ? Apr 21, 2016 15:57 |
learnincurve posted:It does sound like, as nielsm said, that there is another factor, maybe a lamp or an energy saving light bulb the camera is confused by? True, if you've previously been using slower zoom lenses, and then move to a faster prime, your shutter speeds might get faster than the AC frequency. When that happens, you may catch cheap bulbs that have blinking or pulsing light output during a low phase, where the light is dimmer or even has a different color.
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# ? Apr 21, 2016 16:58 |
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Is it normal for a lens to be loose on a Nikon mount? My 70-200 is perfectly tight on my Df, then it shifts around when mounted on my D750. It doesn't really seem to matter, just bothers me that it has a bit of play and twists when mounted. E: Apparently just a tolerance thing. Weird.
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# ? Apr 24, 2016 06:07 |
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red19fire posted:Is it normal for a lens to be loose on a Nikon mount? My 70-200 is perfectly tight on my Df, then it shifts around when mounted on my D750. It doesn't really seem to matter, just bothers me that it has a bit of play and twists when mounted. I've had a lens so tight it took a bit of effort to remove on one body, and so loose it threw an error if I didn't hold it just so on another of the same age/model. Granted, this was newspaper kit, but both bodies had been equally abused. Also lol Nikons still don't work right with purple. From today's little shoot in my yard with my D7000: That's bits of one of these, in this color: (Stock photo clearly shot with a Canon)
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# ? Apr 24, 2016 21:02 |
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A bit of a technical question for you guys: Do modern AF-S lenses (like the 70-200mm VR II and the 200mm f/2 which has an AF toggle switch) require electrical power to be able to focus in manual mode? In other words, is there a mechanical coupling between the focus ring and the the focusing lens group, or is it completely fly-by-wire? I'm wondering because I was considering adapting some AF-S/G lenses to my Sony and am quite happy with manual focus. There are adapters that will let me manually control aperture so I'm not worried about that bit, just focusing.
Jimlad fucked around with this message at 22:44 on Apr 24, 2016 |
# ? Apr 24, 2016 22:40 |
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That lens uses a mechanical zoom and also mechanical focus mechanism so you will be fine. Nikon doesn't make a lot of zoom or focus by wire lenses. But you're not going to get vr or af so why not go old school with the ais or afd lenses that have aperture rings and a much better mf mechanism Like the 80-200 f4
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# ? Apr 24, 2016 23:44 |
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Wild EEPROM posted:That lens uses a mechanical zoom and also mechanical focus mechanism so you will be fine. Nikon doesn't make a lot of zoom or focus by wire lenses. Ah that's good hear, cheers. I actually have an old manual 80-200 4.5, but it's slow and frankly, in terms of optics Nikon have never made anything nearly as good as their modern telephotos.
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# ? Apr 25, 2016 00:43 |
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So I'm ready to upgrade from my ten year old Canon PowerShot S5 to a DSLR. After doing a bunch of research and reading this thread, I think I'm going to go with the D7200. I'm currently looking for deals on used bodies and lenses. Keeping an eye on B&H but also on the lookout for other deals. It looks like Amazon has a ton of bundle deals that seem too good to be true. This is one such offer: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0127W4I9M/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?qid=1463089946&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=nikon+d7200 What's up with this? Are these scams? Stolen items? Counterfeit? I saw mention that they are imports which can't be warrantied. Anyone have more details?
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# ? May 12, 2016 23:03 |
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47th St Photo sounds very 'dodgy NYC photo store' and I expect those lenses and accessories are all complete poo poo.
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# ? May 12, 2016 23:09 |
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lol, they sell the same package but with the poo poo $20 long zoom removed and the 55-200 instead of the 55-300 at $340 less. Amazon have refurbished by nikon bodies at $868.99. Used but perfect lenses:18-55 $79.95, 55-200 $121.28, 55-300 $220.00 So that's $1070.22 vs $1,333.95 and $1168.94 Vs $1,673.95 and they throw in, if I'm being very very generous, maybe $100 worth of extras
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# ? May 12, 2016 23:33 |
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Saddamnit posted:So I'm ready to upgrade from my ten year old Canon PowerShot S5 to a DSLR. After doing a bunch of research and reading this thread, I think I'm going to go with the D7200.
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# ? May 13, 2016 06:50 |
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Any if you guys ever deal with Factory Official? They have the D7200 for $670 ( http://factoryofficial.com/digital-cameras/603-nikon-d7200-dx-format-digital-slr-body-black-018208015542.html). Not much info on the site. Tough to tell if it's legit. Abe's of Maine has a decent deal on it too and I think they're more reputable. Any experience with either of these vendors? EDIT: Did some more research on both these vendors and it sounds like they are basically scan artists. Won't be purchasing from either one. Guess I'll just keep my eye on B&H for a good used deal. Saddamnit fucked around with this message at 22:35 on May 14, 2016 |
# ? May 14, 2016 21:56 |
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Saddamnit posted:Any if you guys ever deal with Factory Official? They have the D7200 for $670 ( http://factoryofficial.com/digital-cameras/603-nikon-d7200-dx-format-digital-slr-body-black-018208015542.html). Not much info on the site. Tough to tell if it's legit. Abe's of Maine has a decent deal on it too and I think they're more reputable. Any experience with either of these vendors?
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# ? May 15, 2016 19:15 |
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Yea I thought the same thing about Abe's but I did some reading and one of those NYC grey market places bought the name from the original business or something.
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# ? May 16, 2016 06:29 |
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People should really stop and think "Why would someone sell me a new camera $200 cheaper than second hand Nikon refurbished?" D7200 has held it's value so it has to be grey market, not new as advertised, or dodgy. If you want a camera bricks and mortar have so many of in the stock room that they can fill a skip with them then the D5200 is an absolute steal right now.
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# ? May 16, 2016 07:48 |
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To anyone who ever wondered about adapting M42 lenses to a Nikon body, I bought the thinnest adapter I could find without corrective optics. I knew I would lose infinity focus, but I wanted to know exactly how bad it would be considering the lens to focal plane distance between Nikon F and M42 is very very close. Turns out with the 50 1.4 super-takumar, I can focus around 4-5 feet in front of me. So it's actually great for portraits, close up kid stuff, that kind of thing. With the 105 2.8 super-takumar, I can focus entirely across the room (haven't tested it outdoors yet). So it's totally still usable depending on your subject, and worth $10-15 for an adapter on ebay if you want to dick around with old lenses.
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# ? May 16, 2016 18:28 |
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What I have yet to me to understand is why I am still finding places with the D3200 and D3300 at the exact same price for the exact same kit. I mean I used a D3200 starting out but you would think the D3300 would have knocked it down a bit.
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# ? May 18, 2016 06:22 |
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A Hacked Soul posted:What I have yet to me to understand is why I am still finding places with the D3200 and D3300 at the exact same price for the exact same kit. Why would you drop the price if it sells for that price?
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# ? May 18, 2016 06:53 |
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The D3200 sells for that much because when you google beginners DSLR camera it still comes up top in all of the (out of date) newspaper/magazine/reddit best camera lists. So people either just search for that on amazon or ask the guy in the B&M for one while his mate stands in front of the D3300 display.
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# ? May 18, 2016 07:45 |
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I can't recommend any camera for even a beginner that doesn't have a front dial for exposure adjustment. Does the 3200 or 3300 have that?
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# ? May 18, 2016 07:48 |
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learnincurve posted:The D3200 sells for that much because when you google beginners DSLR camera it still comes up top in all of the (out of date) newspaper/magazine/reddit best camera lists. So people either just search for that on amazon or ask the guy in the B&M for one while his mate stands in front of the D3300 display. Ahhh point well taken, I guess that makes sense from a marketing stand point.
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# ? May 18, 2016 08:32 |
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Both have a exposure compensation button and one dial for changing exposure/aperture, where it's gimped is in the software, and the shutter life of around 19k is complete arse.
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# ? May 18, 2016 08:53 |
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IMO someone's first camera should be equipped to teach them transferable skills. Long live the d7x00 series of perfect beginner cameras.
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# ? May 18, 2016 13:08 |
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D300 is a viable option for newbies these days if they are the outdoors sort . A D300 with 10-30k out of 150k shutter actuations will set you back no more than £200 (same as the depreciation value on a D3X00 the moment you walk out of the shop). It's the one where Nikon couldn't decide what functions should be made physical buttons/dials so just went "gently caress it just put all of them on it".
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# ? May 18, 2016 18:57 |
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VelociBacon posted:IMO someone's first camera should be equipped to teach them transferable skills. Long live the d7x00 series of perfect beginner cameras. FWIW my first DSLR was a D5300, I was happy with it for a few months and then regretted not going with the D7200 instead. Some of that was the second dial, although manual exposure / aperture + auto ISO works fairly well via button + dial, mostly it was the better autofocus system and sensor. Admittedly, the last two points are very subject dependent.
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# ? May 18, 2016 23:28 |
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I started with a D5100 and I got so used to the single dial that when I eventually up (side?) graded to a D7000, it felt weird having two wheels. I had no problem with the 5100 from a learning standpoint, the only reason for the upgrade was that I wanted to use vintage lenses.
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# ? May 18, 2016 23:46 |
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Problem is that there is always a better camera right up until you get to the top one in the range, all the ones below it are gimped in some way. I've seen far too many people trapped in this cycle of chasing better bodies which depreciate like a rock when they should be investing in better glass which does not. Of course if your photography is specific, like sports or birding then you may hit the limit of what your mid range body can do with your nice lenses, but I've lost count of how many people I've seen using lenses like the the bog standard 55-200mm bundle lens that think that everything will be magically fixed by going to upper range FF bodies. I used to deal in cameras, my bag of many systems is very odd to say the least. I got good lenses across three different formats just because of stuff like if I have a sony A37 body in stock I picked up for £40 and the Sigma macro lens I want for myself is £45 more expensive in Nikon then I may as well keep the Sony.
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# ? May 19, 2016 00:06 |
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Ika posted:FWIW my first DSLR was a D5300, I was happy with it for a few months and then regretted not going with the D7200 instead. Some of that was the second dial, although manual exposure / aperture + auto ISO works fairly well via button + dial, mostly it was the better autofocus system and sensor. Admittedly, the last two points are very subject dependent. BANME.sh posted:I started with a D5100 and I got so used to the single dial that when I eventually up (side?) graded to a D7000, it felt weird having two wheels. That's why the D7x00 is best. Same controls as the top-end bodies (D5's out now, I think, though the decent-sized daily I used to work for is mostly D700s now because they can't afford proper newspaper cameras), and, for the amateur/hobbyist, the ability to autofocus cheap tough old lenses. Sure, the new zooms with onboard motors are better glass, faster focusing, and quieter (which really only matters for video, but any half-decent video guy will have an off-camera mic and be pulling focus manually, or at least using a Canon), but they're either plastic or $megabucks; body-driven AF lenses meant for 35mm can be had for $150 and you can beat a man to death with one and not hurt the lens. In other news, the other day I saw an F4 with 135mm lens in an antiques/junk store for $170. Kinda wish I'd bought it, just to get back into film. Or flip it to one of you guys and make $20 Also, huh, there's an F6. Until I looked up the F4 just now, I thought the F5 (basically same chassis/controls as the D1) was the last Nikon 35mm. I guess they'll keep making film cameras as long as somebody keeps making film, even though the market for $2500 film DSLRs has to be fuckin' tiny these days.
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# ? May 22, 2016 11:29 |
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Anyone have any recommendations for good lens cleaning products? There are a ton of products on Amazon, but it's tough to tell which reviews are legit.
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# ? May 22, 2016 16:43 |
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Saddamnit posted:Anyone have any recommendations for good lens cleaning products? There are a ton of products on Amazon, but it's tough to tell which reviews are legit. Get a lens pen
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# ? May 22, 2016 18:29 |
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Saddamnit posted:Anyone have any recommendations for good lens cleaning products? There are a ton of products on Amazon, but it's tough to tell which reviews are legit. I just use a damp (with water) microfibre cloth. I don't find my lenses get so dirty that it's a problem, it's just removing dust or rain splatter etc.
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# ? May 22, 2016 18:43 |
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Delivery McGee posted:That's why the D7x00 is best. Same controls as the top-end bodies (D5's out now, I think, though the decent-sized daily I used to work for is mostly D700s now because they can't afford proper newspaper cameras), and, for the amateur/hobbyist, the ability to autofocus cheap tough old lenses. Sure, the new zooms with onboard motors are better glass, faster focusing, and quieter (which really only matters for video, but any half-decent video guy will have an off-camera mic and be pulling focus manually, or at least using a Canon), but they're either plastic or $megabucks; body-driven AF lenses meant for 35mm can be had for $150 and you can beat a man to death with one and not hurt the lens. the D7000 doesn't have the same controls as the top-end body since it uses the mode dial instead of mode button But I agree completely with buying the D7000+ so you have the two wheels and things like metering with AI lenses
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# ? May 22, 2016 18:47 |
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I like the mode dial, personally. Does the mode button make things better or is it not really much different in use?
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# ? May 22, 2016 19:15 |
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It's basically worse. It allows for settings banks to switch exposure modes but i like pasm + a couple customs better.
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# ? May 22, 2016 22:19 |
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Yeah my d50 used too much space on predefined scenes, but the d7200 has MASP and the two custom ones which take up the most space. Auto is useful when a waiter wants to take a photo I guess, flash off isn't much use to me ever, and scenes/effects can do one. But hey, all the good stuff is all next to each other so that's fine overall.
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# ? May 22, 2016 23:43 |
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What's the difference between the Nikkor 55-300mm f/4.5-5.6G ED VR AF-S DX and the Nikkor 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6G ED IF AF-S VR? Other than the 55 vs 70 mm starting focal point and the dx vs fx format? Is there a big advantage to getting an fx lense even if you use a dx body? I've just seen the 2nd lense recommended, even for dx bodies and I have no idea why especially when the dx lense is 100$ cheaper and gives more zooming options. Being stuck with a f4.5 seems like you'd be restricted to only shooting on bright days so I don't think that would make a difference either.
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# ? May 23, 2016 17:06 |
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Have a look at both lenses on dxomark, the fx variant might be better quality glass and that's why it's being recommended. Some people always say to get fx lenses for when you upgrade to fx in the future. I personally ignore this advice because there's no guarantee you'll go this path, especially with cameras as good as the d500 in existence. DX lenses generally have a more comfortable zoom range for the format, and are often cheaper and lighter. All my zoom lenses are DX format and I regret nothing.
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# ? May 23, 2016 17:13 |
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I know the 55-300 moves the focus elements fairly slowly, I can't tell you if the 70-300 is better. If I remember correctly there isn't supposed to be much difference IQ wise, but its been almost a year since I had to make that choice. I'm undecided whether going with the 55-300 was the correct choice. I have a number of shots at 55mm where 70mm would have clipped off parts of the image I wanted, where going further away wouldn't have worked. However I also have missed a number of shots due to the slow focus speed, which may be better with the other version. And of course the upgrade path to FX is blocked. E: With slowly, I mean it won't do cheetahs or BIF well, not that its annoying for more static subjects
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# ? May 23, 2016 18:43 |
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# ? Jun 11, 2024 07:40 |
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Ika posted:I have a number of shots at 55mm where 70mm would have clipped off parts of the image I wanted, where going further away wouldn't have worked. This is the reason I was happier going for the 50-150 over the usual 70-200. Losing that wide 20mm would just end in frustration for me I'm sure. I like shooting at 50mm and use it a lot.
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# ? May 23, 2016 18:52 |