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Gyro Zeppeli
Jul 19, 2012

sure hope no-one throws me off a bridge

Lemon Curdistan posted:

Shame, but thanks for the answers. I'll probably get the HG once my backlog is cleared.

The HG is a god-drat monster of a kit too. Like, in terms of parts count, it's equivalent to a decent MG.

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TARDISman
Oct 28, 2011



Totally worth it though, I think it's probably my second favorite HG after my Ex-S, and that's largely because of me spending a week or two painting it.

Bimmi
Nov 8, 2009


someday
but not today
Just to be clear, this is the original MG Nu Gundam:



Not really a match for that lineart, but closer than the ver.Ka at least.

Mecha Gojira
Jun 23, 2006

Jack Nissan
Does anyone still make 1/100 aftermarket hands, resin or otherwise? Thinking that would be a decent if pricey solution to the Emotion Manipulators.

BlitzBlast
Jul 30, 2011

some people just wanna watch the world burn
You might be able to find some B-club resin hands if you're willing to snoop around and pay out the rear end, but you're better off with Bandai's 1/100 Builders Parts. It'll take some work to actually get them to hold weapons, but if you're looking for fists and open palms then there's nothing better.

Well except the Sazabi vKa anyways. You can find resin hands for that pretty easily.

Bimmi
Nov 8, 2009


someday
but not today
I think Kotobukiya may sell them also but I haven't checked in a while.

edit: they do — search for M.S.G or Modeling Support Goods.

Bimmi fucked around with this message at 23:49 on Mar 1, 2015

Lemon-Lime
Aug 6, 2009

Bimmi posted:

Just to be clear, this is the original MG Nu Gundam:



Not really a match for that lineart, but closer than the ver.Ka at least.

That's actually not bad - I think you could probably get it closer by just not doing as much panel lining (and not putting the fin funnels on). Isn't it a fairly old kit and hard to get hold of, though?

Hijo Del Helmsley posted:

The HG is a god-drat monster of a kit too. Like, in terms of parts count, it's equivalent to a decent MG.

Apparently it's also equivalent to an MG in price: http://www.amazon.co.uk/HGUC-RX-93-Gundam-Mobile-Suit/dp/B00LHA2DE8/. :stare:

Bimmi
Nov 8, 2009


someday
but not today

Lemon Curdistan posted:

That's actually not bad - I think you could probably get it closer by just not doing as much panel lining (and not putting the fin funnels on). Isn't it a fairly old kit and hard to get hold of, though?

Shouldn't be especially hard to find. You could certainly get one off eBay if all else fails.

quote:

Apparently it's also equivalent to an MG in price: http://www.amazon.co.uk/HGUC-RX-93-Gundam-Mobile-Suit/dp/B00LHA2DE8/. :stare:

It's really freakin' big.

Zedd
Jul 6, 2009

I mean, who would have noticed another madman around here?



The japanese base prices for all 3 are HGUC Nu: 2500, Mg Nu: 5000, Mg Nu ver Ka: 7000

Broken Loose
Dec 25, 2002

PROGRAM
A > - - -
LR > > - -
LL > - - -

Lemon Curdistan posted:

That's actually not bad - I think you could probably get it closer by just not doing as much panel lining (and not putting the fin funnels on). Isn't it a fairly old kit and hard to get hold of, though?


Apparently it's also equivalent to an MG in price: http://www.amazon.co.uk/HGUC-RX-93-Gundam-Mobile-Suit/dp/B00LHA2DE8/. :stare:

That's because you picked a special edition. http://www.amazon.com/Gundam-RX-93-HGUC-144-Scale/dp/B0013H61R0/ The real one is nearly half the price.

Lemon-Lime
Aug 6, 2009

Broken Loose posted:

That's because you picked a special edition. http://www.amazon.com/Gundam-RX-93-HGUC-144-Scale/dp/B0013H61R0/ The real one is nearly half the price.

Whoops, so I did. That makes more sense. :downs:

Bimmi
Nov 8, 2009


someday
but not today
That is a hilarious markup for app. ¥100 worth of parts.

The Muffinlord
Mar 3, 2007

newbid stupie?

Heh, "sword with benefits".

Shinde
Mar 19, 2009
There's always the old, 1988 1/100 Nu:







Be prepared to sand down seams left and right, though, as well as have permanent balance issues with the funnels on the back, even with the die-cast parts (which were also available on the 1988 kit).

AstraLunaSol
Mar 6, 2013
I have the HGUC Nu and it's honestly such a cool kit. Needs some stickers or paint but drat it's huge.

It has the right feel for the nu, too bad it's lacking a bit in the hip articulation and has single jointed elbows

Speaking of huge, I'm building the HGUC Sazabi and it's just

massive

Bimmi
Nov 8, 2009


someday
but not today

Shinde posted:

There's always the old, 1988 1/100 Nu:



The old Nu is a neat kit but it's so close in form to the MG that there's really no reason to bother with it. Probably is legit hard to find, too.

Frankenstein Dad
Jul 4, 2008

Dad of Frankenstein

BlitzBlast posted:

It technically doesn't. What it does is protect the layer of paint you theoretically have underneath from being damaged by whatever you use to rub off excess lining. If you're lining bare plastic, you just need to wash the parts first.

It's for when you're painting. I guess the smoother surface promotes the flow, but again you could just wash the parts for the same effect.

Thanks a tonne for the info!



Three more things for anyone who knows:

Anyone have any tips for getting paint into nooks and crannies? I'm using a spray can.



I overdid the coat trying to get at the highlighted recess (you can see some of the resulting bubbling on the right) and I'm gonna have to strip and re-do it.

Here are the potential solutions I can see for my next attempt:

Aim better.
Apply multiple coats.
Go over the missed areas with a gundam marker or a tiny paintbrush.

Are any of these good options?


Secondly, some peeps a few pages back were talking about dettol mixed with water being a good thing to soak parts in to strip paint. What sort of ratio of dettol/water are we talking?


Finally, if I apply waterslides onto bare plastic, will a final matte topcoat stop them from peeling off? Or should I go buy some mark setter?

Frankenstein Dad fucked around with this message at 08:12 on Mar 2, 2015

Bimmi
Nov 8, 2009


someday
but not today
You want to be spraying multiple thin coats regardless, to avoid just that sort of over-application.

I'd suggest a simple mask so you can focus spray on the problem area first and then finish the rest of the part, though the better solution entirely would be to use an airbrush. Rattlecans aren't suited to any kind of precision.

Bimmi fucked around with this message at 11:06 on Mar 2, 2015

Null of Undefined
Aug 4, 2010

I have used 41 of 300 characters allowed.
I just used my airbrush for the first time. Holy poo poo the difference between it and hand painting is night and day. Painted all the grey parts on the Hy Gogg I'm working on Gunmetal, and it actually looks like gunmetal, as opposed to sparkly dark grey when I hand painted it. I can't wait til all the blue parts are ready. This kit is turning out sick as gently caress.

Gyro Zeppeli
Jul 19, 2012

sure hope no-one throws me off a bridge

AstraLunaSol posted:

Speaking of huge, I'm building the HGUC Sazabi and it's just

massive

How is the HGUC Sazabi anyway? I love the design, but I've heard nothing but horror stories about the HG, and it's limbs falling off.

Frankenstein Dad
Jul 4, 2008

Dad of Frankenstein

Bimmi posted:

You want to be spraying multiple thin coats regardless, to avoid just that sort of over-application.

I'd suggest a simple mask so you can focus spray on the problem area first and then finish the rest of the part, though the better solution entirely would be to use an airbrush. Rattlecans aren't suited to any kind of precision.

Yeah, I got a bit over-ambitious, because I'd managed to do about 10 other pieces in one coat with no issue. :| A mask is a great solution! Thanks!

Bimmi
Nov 8, 2009


someday
but not today
Spraying thin coats has a number of advantages.

Most importantly, it avoids pooling, dripping and buildup that can obscure detail and otherwise ruin your paint job. A thick, wet paint coat will take much longer to cure, and will be more prone to damage of various kinds while it's still soft. Finally, lighter colors often can't be sprayed in one fell swoop, either with cans or airbrush: they need to be built up gradually to look good. Try spraying white paint over red plastic for a graphic demonstration.

This is not even getting into subtle gradation and weathering effects, which are all about precise control of application. Again, there is only so much you can do with spray cans, they are pretty much a blunt instrument in a hobby that does not generally reward such things.

edit: the disadvantage of multiple thin coats is that it can build up that damnable grainy finish which is SO HARD to avoid even under the best of circumstances, but I've found that warming the spray cans in hot-but-not-boiling water just before use can go a long way towards reducing this.

Bimmi fucked around with this message at 19:20 on Mar 2, 2015

AstraLunaSol
Mar 6, 2013

Hijo Del Helmsley posted:

How is the HGUC Sazabi anyway? I love the design, but I've heard nothing but horror stories about the HG, and it's limbs falling off.

I don't know about the legs yet since I haven't built them, but the arms feel solid. I think it was the legs that were the problem, but I'll find out soon enough.

Monaghan
Dec 29, 2006

I keep looking at my mg jesta and envisioning making a Ghille suit for it.

please someone tell me this is a bad idea before I go and start making it.

Bimmi
Nov 8, 2009


someday
but not today
apropos of nothing:

Gearhead
Feb 13, 2007
The Metroid of Humor

Monaghan posted:

I keep looking at my mg jesta and envisioning making a Ghille suit for it.

please someone tell me this is a bad idea before I go and start making it.

I'm not sure if it's a good idea or a bad idea, but do keep in mind it would look strongly like a statue of Cousin Itt.

Bimmi
Nov 8, 2009


someday
but not today
got a G30th thing going on for now:

Bimmi fucked around with this message at 03:27 on Mar 3, 2015

Lemon-Lime
Aug 6, 2009
My MG Tallgeese I arrived with a declared value of ¥1000, so if you're in the UK, Sukiyaki Japan is also a retailer that "correctly" declares customs values. They weren't as fast as Toyshop Japan Hobbyone and didn't provide parcel tracking, but it still got here by the ETD.

Broken Loose
Dec 25, 2002

PROGRAM
A > - - -
LR > > - -
LL > - - -
Okay, so I am losing my goddamn mind, here.



What the gently caress is that on the left?! It's 1/100 scale. It looks like an MG G30th, but those don't exist. It has the panel structure and decals of the 3.0, but the colors, V-Fin, weapons, and proportions are all completely different. No other MG has the 3.0/G30th/Shizuoka panel structure-- the closest visual style would be the OYW, but the panels are in completely different places. ARGH


edit: gently caress everything. It's a 945SH G Ver.GP30th, a MG-like that came exclusively with an obscure 5-year-old cellphone. It has an entirely metal inner frame which sounds awesome until you realize it's less flexible than a 2005 HG.

Broken Loose fucked around with this message at 14:44 on Mar 3, 2015

The Muffinlord
Mar 3, 2007

newbid stupie?
It's a Gundam, what is that wild looking thing on the right?

muike
Mar 16, 2011

ガチムチ セブン
Compati-Kaiser

Broken Loose
Dec 25, 2002

PROGRAM
A > - - -
LR > > - -
LL > - - -

The Muffinlord posted:

It's a Gundam, what is that wild looking thing on the right?

lol my post probably came off a bit wilder than it should have

The kit on the right is the Kotobukiya non-Scale (but close to 1/144) Compatible Kaiser. It's one of the older Banpresto Originals (dating back to Super Hero Sakusen on the Super NES) and currently is a featured unit in the Super Robot Wars Original Generation series.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E2i3vZlPUkc


I'm currently in the process of constructing it, and it hasn't been too much of a drag. It's big but doesn't have an inner frame. It's prepainted (actual paint) and has no stickers. It has really cool joint setups but can't bend any of the joints involved very far. I'll post a big thing when I'm done.

Koopa Kid
Aug 21, 2007



The Muffinlord posted:

It's a Gundam

*explosion noise*

Currently feeling really good about this 3.0 I'm putting together, thanks thread.

DigitalRaven
Oct 9, 2012




Lemon Curdistan posted:

My MG Tallgeese I arrived with a declared value of ¥1000, so if you're in the UK, Sukiyaki Japan is also a retailer that "correctly" declares customs values. They weren't as fast as Toyshop Japan Hobbyone and didn't provide parcel tracking, but it still got here by the ETD.

Thanks for the heads-up. I'll have to give them a shot once I've made a dent in this current backlog.

Lemon-Lime
Aug 6, 2009

DigitalRaven posted:

Thanks for the heads-up. I'll have to give them a shot once I've made a dent in this current backlog.

You're welcome. I got badly burned on HLJ (through no fault of theirs, obviously, since all they did was fulfil their legal obligation to declare things properly, but I still got hit with £26 customs/handling on a £50 parcel) the one time I ordered with them, so I'm not planning on buying anywhere except Amazon (where I've never had any issues) and have been keeping a list of the good Amazon Marketplace sellers.

DigitalRaven
Oct 9, 2012




Lemon Curdistan posted:

You're welcome. I got badly burned on HLJ (through no fault of theirs, obviously, since all they did was fulfil their legal obligation to declare things properly, but I still got hit with £26 customs/handling on a £50 parcel) the one time I ordered with them, so I'm not planning on buying anywhere except Amazon (where I've never had any issues) and have been keeping a list of the good Amazon Marketplace sellers.

Yeesh. I've kept an eye on what I've put in each shipment from the HLJ private warehouse, but not having to do that would be a great relief.

Pimpmust
Oct 1, 2008

Luckily Sweden got a ~169 USD lower limit before customs kick in.
...of course there's still "always" that 25% VAT and handling charge on top of that (and VAT on the handling/declaration charge :sweatdrop:)


But it seems my package slipped through without incuring any of those costs this time around so :toot:



Looks like I can order through Amazon Uk as well, but that's an import company (Santa Trading JP) doing the dealings and I might end up with (my national) VAT/Customs charges if they don't do a "middle stop" in the UK first (if they do it's just the UK VAT costs + shipping... I think).
In the end it's about equal in costs (slightly more expensive not ordering from HLJ, depending on said VAT charge) and it's mostly down to what they actually have in stock. Might depend on the sort of model too, the £10-15 ones look reasonably priced.

How's the quality on the Unicorn HGs? Got my eyes on the Stark Jegan, Dreissen and Geara Zulu amongst others.

BlitzBlast
Jul 30, 2011

some people just wanna watch the world burn
The Unicorn HGs are all solid barring Kirks' Zaku I Sniper, which is just an edit of the previous HG Zaku I Sniper. And that one wasn't even that bad since it had a nifty kneeling gimmick.

Only real issue with the lot is that anything Sleeves is sticker hell.

Lemon-Lime
Aug 6, 2009
Stark Jegan is fine except the leg thrusters are sort of loosely fitted over the legs and can fall apart, and the shoulder armour/launchers won't let you recreate the cool bit from the first episode (as previously mentioned).

I need to finish this Zaku II F2 so I can build my Grimoire (I'm still surprised at how few parts it has), but I'm still waiting on my replacement sprue cutters. :(

Also, I keep wanting to buy more kits and having to stop myself because of backlog (Zaku II F2, Grimoire, Genoace I, MG Gouf 2.0, MG Tallgeese I EW). :v:

Lemon-Lime fucked around with this message at 18:31 on Mar 3, 2015

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Pimpmust
Oct 1, 2008

BlitzBlast posted:

The Unicorn HGs are all solid barring Kirks' Zaku I Sniper, which is just an edit of the previous HG Zaku I Sniper. And that one wasn't even that bad since it had a nifty kneeling gimmick.

Only real issue with the lot is that anything Sleeves is sticker hell.

Ah poo poo, forgot about the stickers.


I drew this kitbash to celebrate my gunpla...ism yesterday:


(Jineo is derived from the first name that entered my mind "Vagoo Vagine" :v:)

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