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my '97 civic hatchback just had the exterior door handle snap-off when i tried to open the door that had frozen shut in the cold. The replacement part is only $10. Am I capable of doing this myself? I found this video explaining the process and it doesn't look too hard but the comments say that when they did this the green clip exploded or is a bitch and half to get out. I am not a car guy. Should I just get a pro? How much would that cost? Should I just glue the handle back on?
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Feb 5, 2022 03:58
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BIG FLUFFY DOG posted:my '97 civic hatchback just had the exterior door handle snap-off when i tried to open the door that had frozen shut in the cold. The replacement part is only $10. Am I capable of doing this myself? I found this video explaining the process and it doesn't look too hard but the comments say that when they did this the green clip exploded or is a bitch and half to get out. I am not a car guy. Should I just get a pro? How much would that cost? Should I just glue the handle back on? Gluing it back on will be fine as long as you don't actually try to use it to open the door. It needs to be replaced. Replacing it yourself will take a while because you'll spend a lot of time figuring out how the clips work and generally what you're doing. You can do a good job, though, if you have the time and are patient with yourself. If you need it fixed in a hurry, take it to a shop.
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Feb 5, 2022 04:15
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BIG FLUFFY DOG posted:my '97 civic hatchback just had the exterior door handle snap-off when i tried to open the door that had frozen shut in the cold. The replacement part is only $10. Am I capable of doing this myself? I found this video explaining the process and it doesn't look too hard but the comments say that when they did this the green clip exploded or is a bitch and half to get out. I am not a car guy. Should I just get a pro? How much would that cost? Should I just glue the handle back on? Try using some epoxy to glue it back on. Worst case, it doesn't work you're out 10 bucks and a bit of time. Replacing a door handle isn't *that* hard, but if you're not confident then there is nothing wrong with taking it somewhere. Motronic posted:You can probably get an extra few months out of throwing some split loom over it after it's been installed Yeah I think I have some of that laying around the shop from some other electrical work I've done lately. Speaking of split loom, I'd swear I've seen some metallic type split loom that is (presumably) for protecting stuff near heat sources, exhaust manifolds for example. Did I imagine this? The wiring harness on this thing runs close to the exhaust, and the plastic loom is melted. A quick look suggests that there isn't much slack in the harness so I can't reroute it very far away from said manifold. I can probably fab up a heat shield of some sort, but that'll take time and this machine is out nearly every day, and so am I on a different one, but if this magical metallica split loom exists, then it would probably take me all of 10 minutes to solve the problem.
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Feb 5, 2022 04:22
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BIG FLUFFY DOG posted:my '97 civic hatchback just had the exterior door handle snap-off when i tried to open the door that had frozen shut in the cold. The replacement part is only $10. Am I capable of doing this myself? I found this video explaining the process and it doesn't look too hard but the comments say that when they did this the green clip exploded or is a bitch and half to get out. I am not a car guy. Should I just get a pro? How much would that cost? Should I just glue the handle back on? Follow that video, you'll be fine. I'd buy another retainer clip (the green one) since it is likely that it will break. You can get 'em from Dorman, the dealer, or quite possibly at your local parts store (might be a "help!" part). Take your time, is all.
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Feb 5, 2022 04:42
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wesleywillis posted:Speaking of split loom, I'd swear I've seen some metallic type split loom that is (presumably) for protecting stuff near heat sources Yeah, I think you're thinking of this stuff: https://www.amazon.com/WISAUTO-Ther...44033015&sr=8-5 or this stuff: https://www.amazon.com/Team-Perform...07W5LTTFX&psc=1 I think "aluminized sleeving" is the key term here. Dunno how well it works, but I've definitely seen it around.
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Feb 5, 2022 04:51
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PainterofCrap posted:Follow that video, you'll be fine. I'd buy another retainer clip (the green one) since it is likely that it will break. You can get 'em from Dorman, the dealer, or quite possibly at your local parts store (might be a "help!" part). Take your time, is all. will buying a clip removal tool make my life easier enough to justify 6 extra dollars?
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Feb 5, 2022 05:10
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BIG FLUFFY DOG posted:will buying a clip removal tool make my life easier enough to justify 6 extra dollars? Do you have a link to the tool?
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Feb 5, 2022 06:21
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nitsuga posted:Do you have a link to the tool? i was looking at this which has a whole mess of stuff when trying to figure out if searching retaining clip was enough to get the right part and i saw it included a fastener remover which made me think of it.
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Feb 5, 2022 06:28
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BIG FLUFFY DOG posted:i was looking at this which has a whole mess of stuff when trying to figure out if searching retaining clip was enough to get the right part and i saw it included a fastener remover which made me think of it. I know a few people here have had decent enough luck with those kits. They’re not a bad thing to have around for that sort of job. Those prying tools can be handy too, but I seem to end up just pulling on things like they do in that video with a lot of interior work. The clip tool works best pulling on the clip directly, hence its shape, but it’s pretty hard to spot them without at least starting to pull the door panel. Long story short, I’d say go ahead, but it’s OK to set them aside if they’re not able to loosen things completely.
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Feb 5, 2022 13:41
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BIG FLUFFY DOG posted:will buying a clip removal tool make my life easier enough to justify 6 extra dollars? It's not a bad set to have if you possibly see yourself doing more work like this in the future. I use them because the Pontiac door-cards are literally +50-YO pressboard and it's easy to tear them. My son just pulls the door panels off of his 2000 Accord; sometimes, the white nylon retainers stay stuck into the door shell & it can be a bitch to remove them from there without one of these (you have to remove them & slot them back into the panel before reinstalling it). I'd get at least one. You slide the fork up into the seam, and kind of feel around until you find the retainer & work the fork around it & gently lever. Again, take your time. If they break, they, like the push-rod clips, are widely available. Just in case you're referring to said push-rod clip: no, those are easiest removed by fingat/thumb & go on the same way. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 16:12 on Feb 5, 2022 |
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Feb 5, 2022 16:09
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17 Lexus gs350 with 45k miles. It was just inspected, had its 45k service done about two months ago. The battery is dead for the second time in three weeks. During the maintenance they said the battery was fine (well the sticker says green next to battery and tires). I don’t drive much. I haven’t driven it since Monday (now Saturday) and that was for about an hour. Prior to that I’d taken a few 45 minute trips. anyways, it’s 20 degrees out so I’m thinking the cold plus it possibly being a 6 year old battery (I bought it CPO with 40k miles 8 months ago) plus not driving much means it either needs replaced or charged. Good ways to check? If I jump it it starts up pretty quick. I have a multimeter if that’s any help.
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Feb 5, 2022 18:30
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nwin posted:17 Lexus gs350 with 45k miles. It was just inspected, had its 45k service done about two months ago. At 6 years old, unless your battery is an AGM, your battery is almost certainly dead. You can use a multimeter to check the charge level of the battery (should be 12.6 or higher if good), but to get a true test on the battery, you have to load test the battery. Any auto parts store or battery store should be able to do that for free, but from what you describe I'm 99% sure it's your dead battery. The cold weather probably finished it off.
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Feb 5, 2022 18:55
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GOD IS BED posted:At 6 years old, unless your battery is an AGM, your battery is almost certainly dead. You can use a multimeter to check the charge level of the battery (should be 12.6 or higher if good), but to get a true test on the battery, you have to load test the battery. Any auto parts store or battery store should be able to do that for free, but from what you describe I'm 99% sure it's your dead battery. The cold weather probably finished it off. I just checked the date and the battery is from august 2020. I’ll check the charge with a multimeter but will that be any good with a dead battery or do I need to jump it first?
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Feb 5, 2022 19:02
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I have a 2021 volkswagon jetta and a 2-liter of coke zero froze and burst in the back seat after some exceptionally cold temperatures (I didn’t know it was back there). It’s been a few days since it happened, and it looks like most of the volume of the bottle was either still inside the bottle as ice or was caught by my rubber winter floormats, which have a raised rim on the sides, but likely not all of it. I see some dried spatter in various places, but no ice on the floor that I can see. What are the worst possible consequences of this? I don’t care about cleaning the interior or seats, but I would worry about soda seeping through the floor and rusting something. Is there anything I should do or prepare myself for/look out for? This feels like a stupid question and I feel stupid for allowing it to happen and not noticing right away.
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Feb 5, 2022 19:07
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nwin posted:I just checked the date and the battery is from august 2020. I’ll check the charge with a multimeter but will that be any good with a dead battery or do I need to jump it first? Probably not, the battery will be low if it can't start your Lexus. Jump it, drive it for thirty minutes (not just idle), turn the engine off and test it. If it reads above 12.5, wait an hour and test it again to see if it is draining quickly. If it still seems good, let it sit and test it the next day. If it is losing charge, it could be the battery is not holding a charge well, or you could have something in your car draining the battery. Next step would be to make sure the battery is charged and take it to where you got it for a proper load test and possible warranty replacement if it's bad. If you bring a battery in below 10 volts, most places will say the battery is too deeply discharged and possibly out of warranty because of that (the Batteries Plus I work at would, at least). If you get the battery tested and it is good, or you get a new battery and you keep having problems, post here and I can walk you through on how to test for drains.
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Feb 5, 2022 19:28
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I AM GRANDO posted:I have a 2021 volkswagon jetta and a 2-liter of coke zero froze and burst in the back seat after some exceptionally cold temperatures (I didn’t know it was back there). It’s been a few days since it happened, and it looks like most of the volume of the bottle was either still inside the bottle as ice or was caught by my rubber winter floormats, which have a raised rim on the sides, but likely not all of it. I see some dried spatter in various places, but no ice on the floor that I can see. Your rust concern is unfounded, it's just not enough liquid over a long enough time period to do any appreciable damage, it will evaporate before anything happens. Maybe leave the windows cracked if there's no precip in the forecast and you park outside. That being said, I am truly astonished you would not care about cleaning soda out of seats and carpet on a 2021 vehicle. I know you people exist (those that could not care less about cleaning an iota of dirt from their interior) but it makes my spine tingle to know I was keeping my car that dirty. The longer you wait, the more set in it will become (again in terms of stains and smell, not rust damage). Just a few squirts of a Fantastic all purpose cleaner and rubbing with a paper towel would be a good help. As you know, you're lucky it was Coke Zero instead of regular Coke, it's a big advantage that diet soda does not become sticky when spilled. It's one reason I like diet pop! Inner Light fucked around with this message at 19:32 on Feb 5, 2022 |
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Feb 5, 2022 19:30
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Inner Light posted:Your rust concern is unfounded, it's just not enough liquid over a long enough time period to do any appreciable damage, it will evaporate before anything happens. I meant it in the sense that I can handle cleaning the car but am too ignorant to know if there was damage beyond the car getting dirty or if I should be worried.
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Feb 5, 2022 19:34
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I AM GRANDO posted:I meant it in the sense that I can handle cleaning the car but am too ignorant to know if there was damage beyond the car getting dirty or if I should be worried. Coke Zero is almost pure water with a little bit of coloring and flavoring. There isn't anything in it that could cause damage beyond the water.
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Feb 5, 2022 19:56
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Deteriorata posted:Coke Zero is almost pure water with a little bit of coloring and flavoring. There isn't anything in it that could cause damage beyond the water. It has phosphoric acid in it but not enough to do any damage.
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Feb 5, 2022 19:58
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Anecdote, but when I pulled up the carpet on the xc90, there was one place with rust - third row someone spilled some kind of soda down the side of the side of the seat. It had a remnant sticky sugar goo, the water might evaporate but something is going to stick around and it is acidic.
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Feb 5, 2022 21:18
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GOD IS BED posted:Probably not, the battery will be low if it can't start your Lexus. Jump it, drive it for thirty minutes (not just idle), turn the engine off and test it. If it reads above 12.5, wait an hour and test it again to see if it is draining quickly. If it still seems good, let it sit and test it the next day. Thanks. I learned my multimeter sucks. It’s got 10 or 250 V for DC. It took a bit to jump it. I tried right after connecting the cables with the other car running and it took about a minute before my car finally turned over. Drove it for 40 minutes and it pinned the dial at 10v and at 250 setting it was at 18 which seems high…or I’m not reading correctly. Waited an hour and I got the same readings. A new multimeter is coming tomorrow.
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Feb 5, 2022 22:40
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Scrree posted:Honda / Civic / 2016 / 2.0L 4 cylinder / 63,000~ miles Charles posted:How old is your battery? To follow up on this -- I replaced the battery, took the car for a quick drive around the block, and half way back to home all of the warning lights blinked out. I drove it around 30 minutes longer and it ran fine. I hadn't touched the battery since I got the car, and now that I'm thinking about it all the lights turned on after a cold snap took the temperature into the negatives for the first time this winter. Thank you all so much for your answers! I'll drive like a granny over the next week just in case anything pops back up, but this thread may have literally saved me >$1000.
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Feb 6, 2022 01:04
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I AM GRANDO posted:I meant it in the sense that I can handle cleaning the car but am too ignorant to know if there was damage beyond the car getting dirty or if I should be worried. I had one car where the passenger and back seat had literally turned brown (from grey) from all of the soda spilled in it (I assume the PO had kids). Carpet had a lot of brown spots too. No damage, just took awhile to clean. Used a rented Rug Doctor with the upholstery tool. Ants loving everywhere when I got it too, ugh - they went away after cleaning it.
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Feb 6, 2022 04:03
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Based on how successful I’ve been over the years in removing old coffee & soda spills from various vehicle’s carpets & seat upholstery, I’ve assumed that car manufacturers are treating the materials with a repellent such as Scotch-Guard.
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Feb 6, 2022 04:34
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Scrree posted:To follow up on this -- I replaced the battery, took the car for a quick drive around the block, and half way back to home all of the warning lights blinked out. I drove it around 30 minutes longer and it ran fine. Yay! I hope that's it. When you get Christmas lights on the dash mysteriously sometimes it's good to check the battery first, especially with modern cars. Or sometimes just checking to make sure there isn't corrosion on the battery posts 
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Feb 6, 2022 06:05
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nwin posted:Thanks. I learned my multimeter sucks. It’s got 10 or 250 V for DC. It took a bit to jump it. I tried right after connecting the cables with the other car running and it took about a minute before my car finally turned over. So 24 hours later and the old multimeter still pins the needle at 10v. At 250v it was higher, around 20v today. New digital multimeter shows 11.9v today.
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Feb 6, 2022 22:05
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11.9 is extremely low for a car battery, and I'm betting it drops deep into the single digits when you attempt to start it. Replace it. The one I just replaced was showing 12.3 when sitting, but dropped to 5 as soon as I hit the starter. Hell, it dropped to 10 just turning on the headlights, and kept dropping from there - you could see the headlights dimming fairly quickly. After 5 minutes with the headlights on it was down to about 7 volts IIRC. My own question - my car (2007 Ford Crown Victoria, 135k) threw P0132 today (O2 sensor stuck high, bank 1 primary sensor). Fired up Torque, and.... bank 1 looks a little lazy, but it's definitely cycling.  This happened right after a car wash with an underbody spray. Think something got wet, or should I just go ahead and fire new sensors at it? Looks like the OEM is NTK and all of $28 on Rockauto, so I may as well do both primaries if it needs one. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 22:55 on Feb 6, 2022 |
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Feb 6, 2022 22:40
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STR posted:11.9 is extremely low for a car battery, and I'm betting it drops deep into the single digits when you attempt to start it. Replace it. in nwin's case, i would suggest further diagnostics. ok, it's under 12V when sitting, that's bad. but it could be due to a parasitic draw in the electrical system, or an alternator that isn't charging it properly. i would recommend jump starting the car, let it run for a bit, then measure the voltage at the battery with the engine on. it should be in the range of 13.8V - 14.8V. If it's not, or it's fluctuating, I would start to suspect something in the charging circuit. Once the battery has been charged up for a bit, I'd shut the car off and then disconnect the negative battery terminal. That way, there is no load on the battery. Measure it, it should be well over 12V. Probably closer to 13V. Then let it sit overnight, still unplugged. Ideally it should measure 12.6V. I wouldn't be too concerned about plus or minus 0.2V or so. If it starts out at an OK voltage but self-discharges (with no load) to below ~12.6V, that indicates that the battery is not holding a charge and should be replaced. If it's fine overnight, then I would suspect that there's something in the car that's draining it. You can find the drain by using a clamp-on ammeter, or pulling fuses with a meter in series with a battery cable.
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Feb 6, 2022 23:59
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STR posted:11.9 is extremely low for a car battery, and I'm betting it drops deep into the single digits when you attempt to start it. Replace it. Any code like this (to me) is an immediate "clear it and see if it comes back" situation. I suppose water up there could have shorted something in the sensor's loom but ehhhh. Just see if it comes back.
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Feb 7, 2022 01:32
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1995 RAV4. 2.0 engine. PCV question. Is the PCV supposed to be spring loaded? It just has a free floating metal disc. PCVs cost about $50AUD so I only want to replace it if it is defective. I can't find any info so if someone knows about the PCV on the mid 90's Toyota engines, please tell me?
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Feb 7, 2022 04:12
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Sounds like a typical PCV to me - on older vehicles, taking the PCV valve off and shaking it to see if it rattled was considered a valid test. It's just a check valve so as long as it's not gunked up and still moving it's probably fine.
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Feb 7, 2022 04:38
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They typically do, but a very weak spring - it just closes off the valve when there's no vacuum. Usually just a shake of the valve is enough to tell you if it's good or not (rattle = good), but looking at pictures of 90s Toyota PCV valves has me scratching my head.VelociBacon posted:Any code like this (to me) is an immediate "clear it and see if it comes back" situation. I suppose water up there could have shorted something in the sensor's loom but ehhhh. Just see if it comes back. CEL went back out on its own.  It still showed as a historical fault until I cleared codes, now it just shows the typical P1000 that every Ford shows for a bit after clearing. I drove for about 30 minutes after it went out, several short trips (but the engine fully warmed up, so closed loop), and it never came back. It does feel like it has a random miss, but nothing showing on the misfire counter.I went in with FORScan before clearing, and there's a bunch of CAN bus errors with pretty much everything with wires connected to it, so yeah, something probably got wet. I don't have the undertray for the car, I'm sure that doesn't help. I ran the self test on every module that I could, everything completed fine with no errors, so probably a connector somewhere that let a little water in.
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Feb 7, 2022 04:45
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IOwnCalculus posted:Sounds like a typical PCV to me - on older vehicles, taking the PCV valve off and shaking it to see if it rattled was considered a valid test. It's just a check valve so as long as it's not gunked up and still moving it's probably fine. Sorry STR. I don't know how to multi quote on phone. I just revisited the valve. I've had it soaking in turpentine. It was the best solvent I had on hand. Out of curiosity I poked the bottom valve with a bit of wire. There is a spring apparently, but if it's meant to hold the crankcase end disc against the bottom seal it's at least 1mm too short. Damaged maybe? E: ordered a new PCV. $47.dammit. I'm hoping it'll make the engine a little less loud and leaky because in the past I've found if I hold my finger over the crankcase input hose for a few seconds the engine quiets down a lot. Doesn't seem to have a blowby issue either. It's why I have my doubts about the PCV functioning properly. General_Failure fucked around with this message at 05:11 on Feb 7, 2022 |
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Feb 7, 2022 04:52
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I hope your $47 PCV is an OEM Toyota unit. My personal experience with PCV is that aftermarket is useless garbage.
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Feb 7, 2022 17:36
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Raluek posted:in nwin's case, i would suggest further diagnostics. ok, it's under 12V when sitting, that's bad. but it could be due to a parasitic draw in the electrical system, or an alternator that isn't charging it properly. Going to get the battery checked tomorrow but I ran the ammeter with the clamp on it before and after I uninstalled my remote start. Before: https://i.imgur.com/Mgsxohz.jpg After: https://i.imgur.com/lIqZlbF.jpg
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Feb 8, 2022 23:21
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nwin posted:Going to get the battery checked tomorrow but I ran the ammeter with the clamp on it before and after I uninstalled my remote start. >1.5A draw from a remote start? yeah that'll do it
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Feb 9, 2022 06:00
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Raluek posted:>1.5A draw from a remote start? yeah that'll do it Is the 1.12A draw I’m still experiencing “acceptable” or should I continue the hunt for draining items? The only other thing I’ve done to this car is install an aftermarket CarPlay add on. No reports on the web of this specific brand contributing to any drainage issues. Also, would the 1.5A draw from the remote start be acceptable if I were driving every day?
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Feb 9, 2022 12:37
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Maybe you have a unicorn car but according to google parasitic draw should not be more than 100mA on a modern vehicle. Something is wrong if you're truly losing more than an Ampere to who knows where. E: it takes a while for the various computers to shut down, so your measurements is likely to be different right after you turn off the engine compared to 15 minutes later. Invalido fucked around with this message at 13:13 on Feb 9, 2022 |
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Feb 9, 2022 13:11
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Are you giving everything enough time to "go to sleep"? It takes 10-15 minutes minimum for all of the modules in a car to shut down. If you've just opened or closed a door, that timer will reset (and it'll never start if you have a door open). randomidiot fucked around with this message at 13:27 on Feb 9, 2022 |
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Feb 9, 2022 13:25
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I think you guys might be on to Something… I opened the hood, closed the doors, put the key fob in the house and waited 25 minutes. Here’s where we sit:  Does that translate to 80 milliamps?
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Feb 9, 2022 14:32
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