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Real minor stuff today but a couple things I was putting off or couldn't get to. I finished up the bedliner, the biggest thing. I think I set the gun up slightly different, because one bottle got the rest of what I needed, so now I have an extra one in case I need to do a touch-up. Overall I did an OK job, I can see some primer spots in some places but the coverage looks fine and since it's white it'll always look dirty.  I also mounted the little corner trim on the driver's side, which I put off for no good reason. Then I put a new dash speaker in. I used one of these dual tweeter speakers from RetroSound. Of course I was winging it and chose the 5x7, which was too wide. Original must have been like 3x6 or something bizzare. Nothing that a sheet metal wheel on the dremel couldn't fix. The sound is much deeper than the pair of 3.5" speakers obviously. With the dash apart I took the time to scrub it down. It's cracked bad, and the corners are warped, so it's boned but it can at least be clean. I tried all my cleaners but nothing was doing too much until I got the Krud Kutter out. It got progressively cleaner with multiple applications. It was so brown that it had to have been years of tobacco embedded in it.  I didn't get a great pic, the dark puddles were much darker and streaky on the first round. This dash might be a "fun" winter project to try and repair. With all that off I had a chance to deep clean around it, wipe down the dust on the dash supports. Tightened the connection for the tach power, general tidying and vacuuming. Felt good. Drove the wife around the neighborhood, smelled gas and headed home. It only shows up when I bounce around so I suspect it's from a vent line. I couldn't see any sign of gas anywhere though, and the motor made no changes so I doubt I was getting huge splashes out of the carb vent somehow. No wetness around the carb base at all either.
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Dec 6, 2020 23:32
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The most mellow of car work days ending in a discovery that answers a nagging issue. Last night I got this spare mounted on the toolbox finally. All I needed was fair weather so I could layout and drill four holes. Got it done before dark last night. I rolled that ambition into today, and I finally wired the CHMSL on the flatbed and this pair of work lights. Continued that push to get my door switch in so the dome light comes on again when I open the door, and put in the dash to defroster screws that secure both at the front. I even patched a 2" hole in the firewall I made for a wiring harness from the EFI experiment. None of it was hard and I think it all happened in about an hour and a half. Like... Why was I waiting?  And in Galaxie news, I popped the instrument cluster off to start gently cleaning it. What a beautiful set of dials. They look nice as gold but I guess are supposed to be more of an aluminum color. The lens is in good shape and will be nice with a deep clean like this. I gotta figure out where to send the plastic to get chromed.   2021 resolution is to get this baby painted. If you look back at my first post I'm way off my original goals, but look at all the side quests I've done! To hit that goal I need to: Replace the steering box and pump (parts ordered!) Address a dent by the bumper Strip and prep the hood Strip and prep the trunk lid Patch rust on the convertible top frame. Each corner of the main... Bow? Seems like work that will be best done without a finished product nearby. Fabricate a kick down lever that is missing. Or find one... But fabrication seems like what I'll have to do. I don't see anyone selling it, and it's a rod not a cable. Suggestions welcome. The pathway to paint seems a lot cleaner on this car considering there's not major metalwork, but I bet I'll still find random things to do! Oh poo poo edit: I didn't finish the truck story. It was pissing gas all over the engine. I tightened the bowl a little but it was actually the needle. The drat thing was sticking open. It died on me about a half a mile from the house and adjusting the needle got me up and running again, until it happened again, and then again when it died as I was backing up the driveway. Which was probably my main gas smelling issue. New Viton parts are on the way. I always blame the alcohol (lol) for failing carb things, and it may actually be rust or sediment. Although there are double fuel filters on it so I'm pretty confident it's the needle. Especially since adjusting it helped. StormDrain fucked around with this message at 00:43 on Jan 3, 2021 |
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Jan 3, 2021 00:39
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Wow wow wow. Truck is looking amazing and I can't wait to see dash repair. It sounds like it will need more than 'plastic filler and texturing'? Excited for the other projects as well! I wish I had your motivation.
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Jan 4, 2021 03:57
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jink posted:Wow wow wow. Truck is looking amazing and I can't wait to see dash repair. It sounds like it will need more than 'plastic filler and texturing'? Thanks man! I think I'm letting the ship sail on the dash. It broke through in a couple places when I cleaned it, the entire thing is a little more brittle than I thought. Sadly I'm never going to find a better dash so... I don't know. Maybe in a few years I can do something bigger. Mold it and build a new one? It seems like with the use of some sort of plastic resin with spray foam behind it, built from the bottom up. I haven't seen any homemade dashboards like that though.
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Jan 4, 2021 04:26
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Have you talked about the old car back half that's sitting on the corner across the street? I just noticed it because I was staring at the parking situation and getting super jealous 
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Jan 4, 2021 05:16
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Maybe wrap the dash in suede or similar? It won't help with how brittle it already is but maybe it can help prevent it from getting worse?
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Jan 4, 2021 05:45
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Krakkles posted:Have you talked about the old car back half that's sitting on the corner across the street? I just noticed it because I was staring at the parking situation and getting super jealous I haven't! It's a hunk of a 55 Chevy, and at one point had a solar panel and battery powering the taillights for overnight ambiance. He's a good neighbor, just wrapped up a '54 Bel Air he's had since he was a teenager. Absolute class in the execution. Bright red, better than factory bodywork, clean upholstery, supercharged 350 and it runs in the 13s. He's probably to blame for me swapping the steering in the Galaxie. He used to work on full-size Fords and Lincolns from the 60s specifically, and told me even the best Ford steering valves leak. It's always fun to see what rolls through his garage. It's like the most popular cars, 64 Impala, 53 Ford pickup, 57 Bel air, then you'll see a drag Nash Metropolitan, or a drag Dart with skulls airbrushed on it.
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Jan 4, 2021 15:13
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There are companies that can repair and re-create dashboards, I'm not sure how though. Definitely research, I'm sure there are some youtube videos. There are too many old and rare cars with perfect restorations for there not to be some known tradecraft and tricks. That or you just make a foam factory shape and leather wrap it. I'm sure that's super common as well.
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Jan 7, 2021 15:37
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LloydDobler posted:There are companies that can repair and re-create dashboards, I'm not sure how though. Definitely research, I'm sure there are some youtube videos. There are too many old and rare cars with perfect restorations for there not to be some known tradecraft and tricks. Well I've hit the point in the project that I'm not going to put any real money to it if I can. The dashboard is that thread you can't pull. I'd end up stripping the whole cab back down, redoing the door cards and repairing the wheel. Probably getting a new floor again since the one I got wasn't molded for my tunnel. And then painting the inside. No thanks. Plus I just dropped two stimulus on new steering for the Galaxie. This weekend though I did put a new needle in the Holley, and spilled a quart of gas trying to get it right. Still leaks! OK now it's just a little drip and definitely from the fuel bowl bolts. They're new, and I have them almost uncomfortablely tight. I'll pop it off again, clean it as best as I can and try again. Other than the drip though it was idling wonderfully. Very even and smooth. I should back the accelerator pump off a touch since it wanted to stumble. But it started easy everytime. Maybe if I'm feeling sassy I'll cut the fuel line and put a glass filter right at the carb for insurance.
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Jan 12, 2021 00:55
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StormDrain posted:Well I've hit the point in the project that I'm not going to put any real money to it if I can. The dashboard is that thread you can't pull. I'd end up stripping the whole cab back down, redoing the door cards and repairing the wheel. Probably getting a new floor again since the one I got wasn't molded for my tunnel. And then painting the inside. No thanks. If it came with those stiff Teflon-or-similar O-ring gasket things for the float bowl screws, yeah you do have to crank on them harder than I'd like. And I've found that I have to tighten them up from vibrating loose every couple years.
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Jan 12, 2021 05:34
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Raluek posted:If it came with those stiff Teflon-or-similar O-ring gasket things for the float bowl screws, yeah you do have to crank on them harder than I'd like. And I've found that I have to tighten them up from vibrating loose every couple years. Ugh good to know. Yes it is those. The white nylon ones. I'm using a very small 5/16 wrench so it's tough to get too much torque on it. The scar I bear is that I had to replace the fuel bowl after I stripped one of the screw holes for the accelerator pump housing, so I'm gentle with every screw. I will probably use my 1/4" torque wrench that reads in-lbs.
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Jan 12, 2021 05:51
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StormDrain posted:Ugh good to know. Yes it is those. The white nylon ones. I'm using a very small 5/16 wrench so it's tough to get too much torque on it. The scar I bear is that I had to replace the fuel bowl after I stripped one of the screw holes for the accelerator pump housing, so I'm gentle with every screw. I will probably use my 1/4" torque wrench that reads in-lbs. If you find a better solution, let me know!
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Jan 12, 2021 05:57
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Raluek posted:If you find a better solution, let me know! Turns out 30in-lbs is a lot more than I was giving it. All good now, nice and tight, no leaks.
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Jan 18, 2021 01:00
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StormDrain posted:Turns out 30in-lbs is a lot more than I was giving it. All good now, nice and tight, no leaks. That's good to know. I never used a torque wrench on mine, I just tighten them up every once in awhile. I'll do the same as you did (1/4" torque wrench) next time I'm in there, thanks.
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Jan 18, 2021 01:50
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CUSUMtHMlIo Take a ride with me down to Golden in the Binder with David Bowie. I made a friend along the way, drove for about an hour and all is well. This was after resetting the timing based on maximizing vacuum. Edit: apparently this vid is seen by folks in Iran, North Korea, Cuba and Syria. Let me know if it's not working! StormDrain fucked around with this message at 01:31 on Apr 6, 2021 |
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Apr 4, 2021 22:22
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That was a great drive! I enjoyed it! (though your cracked screen upsets me!)
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Apr 4, 2021 23:18
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Tomarse posted:That was a great drive! I enjoyed it! LOL my friend gave me the same feedback. He's right that I'll will break down and replace it at some point. It looks awful in the video yet when I drive I barely notice it.
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Apr 4, 2021 23:36
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StormDrain posted:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CUSUMtHMlIo What's that massive concrete structure near the end?
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Apr 6, 2021 12:37
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That's the backside of Coors brewing. I don't know what any of the specific structures are.
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Apr 6, 2021 15:49
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StormDrain posted:That's the backside of Coors brewing. I don't know what any of the specific structures are. Golden... ahhhh, that makes sense. What a post-apocalyptic building, but I get it.
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Apr 6, 2021 16:41
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sharkytm posted:What's that massive concrete structure near the end? I was wondering about that too. Your binder has such a 60s period truck feel as it responds to the roads. Bowie is  Love it.
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Apr 6, 2021 16:47
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cursedshitbox posted:I was wondering about that too. LOL it responds to the roads as well as a stoned teenager at the drive in. Four corners on leaf springs and solid axles, and only the weight of the flatbed in the back for mass leaves it a little floaty. The bed I figure is 650-700lbs based on material thickness and size, although I have no idea what the original bed would weigh, maybe 400? The rear springs are new, made for an 80s Chevy, 4" lift springs. Oh yeah and no sway bars. Curves will dump you right out.
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Apr 6, 2021 17:40
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Extremely down for videos of goons driving cool projects with good music.
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Apr 6, 2021 20:41
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IOwnCalculus posted:Extremely down for videos of goons driving cool projects with good music. 
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Apr 6, 2021 22:39
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Very upset with myself right now for accidentally closing the tab with a whole write-up. First of all. it's good to be back on the car. Second, I impulse bought an action camera that I didn't mention on the truck video, and I intend to have more multimedia for this project. Third, I have seen myself in the video and I think I need to either hide my body or improve it as well. So here's where we left off. The car runs, moves under it's own power. Needs final touches of bodywork, paint, upholstery, trim polishing, fix a few leaks, and it'll be good to go. The reality of the last item is there's still a bundle of work to go on before any of the finishes. The first order of business is a leaky steering setup. The factory power steering consists of the box, which changes angle of input and ratio. That goes to a valve that responds to being pushed or pulled and directs pressurized fluid to a ram, that does the work. It sucks rear end and leaked out all of the fluid over the last year. The replacement is an integrated steering box from Borgeson that works the way you expect. The box has the pressure inside and provides the assistance. This requires an adapter to replace the valve, the new box, a new pump, modify the column, and delete the ram. I did the fun part this weekend. Cleaned up the car, turned it around, and took parts off. That's about as far as I got! I had to put gas in the fuel bowl directly to get it started because the pump didn't want to pump when cranking. The transmission lost a lot of fluid on the floor and I had to get a couple of quarts. I did get to at least trying to put parts on though. The dry fit of the new box was tight, the mount and holes are fine, but it runs into the frame, and worse yet into the fuel and rear brake line. Both of which are already smashed to poo poo before I got the new box on. That brings us to the first and second side jobs. The first side job is going to be the bodywork for fenders and hood, while they are off it provides the crucial side job that I can work on when the main job is pissing me off. One of my goals for the year is to have them in epoxy primer. The second side job is the brakes. My dad and some goons have given the same good advice, drop the single pot master for a dual master (with booster preferably). this is an achievable goal with the use of later model parts. With no fender, no steering, and having to fix the rear circuit anyway, I'm going to do that. In fact, I'll probably finish that first just due to access issues. I also just remembered I'm missing a kickdown linkage, a metal rod from transmission to throttle linkage. It's a weird part that doesn't go bad or anything and I can't find a replacement for it yet. It's not terribly complicated so I may fabricate this on my own. If anyone has tips I'm here for it. I ran into a couple problems otherwise today. The adapter for the drag link threaded on great until about 4-5 turns and it hit some rough threads. I filed them down the best I could and brought out the channel locks to thread it on which worked great, and the threads are clean and fine. That somehow derailed me like 20 minutes though. The other was I don't understand the mounting for my new power steering pump. It's the right one for the car from Borgeson, but it doesn't mount to the same spot. Annoyingly there are people who talk about doing this upgrade but I haven't found a photo yet. I think it just clicked for me, so I think I can nail it later. The other other problem I ran into was some leaks around the brakes. Looks like the front wheel cylinders are weeping. I only got about 1/16 of a turn on the brake hose so hopefully that stops it but of course I'll take the drum off and check inside. They're all 'new' so that's the worst part. They worked well though and did stop the car without delay. OK Photos time: All backed in, no fenders.  Old vs new. Everything in this kit feels well made and designed to work for this car, which is good news.  Box bolted in. It's not bolted in right because it's hitting a seam in the frame with the little bump on the end. That's a solvable problem. The center line shown is the fuel line which is squished. To the right of that is a crazy small line for the rear brakes, that is smashed to poo poo. I'm surprised I was able to bleed it and that the rear wheels lock up when I back down the driveway.  Second angle, brake line top center with flaked off paint and a kinked appearance.  Top down view. It's a tight fit and they warn about that. The whole box will go a little to the bottom of this picture when I can stop it from binding on the frame. I could see the bolt through the gap between frame and bracket that will sink it in properly. You can also see how close the rag joint connection is to the firewall, this will end up inside the cab a little bit. Cutting the steering shaft is a required part of the job, and scares me a little. I've modified stuff I can't get replacements for before and all came out fine, so let's hope this comes out the same.  Finally: the video. You get to see how neglected I let the car get, and a little drive down and up the driveway. I had to add a quart and a half of ATF, so I tested if it would go back up the driveway before I committed to backing down the street. Also a reminder that I need to find and eliminate the leak for that. Also there was coolant pooled on the intake manifold that definitely came from the weird carb spacer that Ford uses. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gZQM23Nq_ZQ
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Apr 11, 2021 23:20
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StormDrain posted:The second side job is the brakes. My dad and some goons have given the same good advice, drop the single pot master for a dual master (with booster preferably). this is an achievable goal with the use of later model parts. With no fender, no steering, and having to fix the rear circuit anyway, I'm going to do that. In fact, I'll probably finish that first just due to access issues. have you considered hydroboost? you should have a healthy power steering pump since you're putting a brand new one on, and i hate big bulky vacuum boosters. some sn97 mustangs have em from the factory, and therefore in the junkyards. i assume ford is as lego as chevy is with their bolt patterns for stuff, so whatever drum-appropriate master cylinder should pop right on vacuum booster is simpler tho, and idk what your plans are for the motor, so you might have no problem generating vacuum. fewer clearance concerns with no clutch master cylinder too
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Apr 12, 2021 01:45
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Raluek posted:have you considered hydroboost? you should have a healthy power steering pump since you're putting a brand new one on, and i hate big bulky vacuum boosters. some sn97 mustangs have em from the factory, and therefore in the junkyards. i assume ford is as lego as chevy is with their bolt patterns for stuff, so whatever drum-appropriate master cylinder should pop right on You know what I did just start considering it after I posted. I caught a video from hot rod where they put a hydro boost type in a Galaxie. Of course being hot rod magazine that had some monster motor in it too and a lot of custom work. A lot of posts on another forum using Master Power Brakes, and they have a nice kit that's a set of front discs and a power booster. I sent them a message about fitment.There's plenty of room for their 8" booster so it's in my cart for now. But I am going to keep researching for the moment.
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Apr 12, 2021 04:54
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StormDrain posted:You know what I did just start considering it after I posted. I caught a video from hot rod where they put a hydro boost type in a Galaxie. Of course being hot rod magazine that had some monster motor in it too and a lot of custom work. I'm putting a hydroboost in my Chevelle, and I haven't driven it yet (and won't for a couple years, probably), but I'm a big fan of being able to lego together some junkyard parts instead of buying a big-buck kit. $35 or whatever at the junkyard for a Mustang booster, then rockauto up some hoses, and figure out what master cylinder fits the booster that works for whatever brake situation you're going for. Maybe there is something late model you can yoink the calipers from too? In chevy world, it's mostly late fourthgens as a popular donor; I'm not sure what the equivalent in Fordland is. Maybe the Mustang spindle is close enough?
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Apr 12, 2021 05:26
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I went with the Master Power brake kit. New front discs, dual circuit master cylinder and an 8" booster. It's expensive compared to what I could Frankenstein together. I decided brakes are important enough that I wanted new parts that all work together. And overall not that expensive. So until that shows up not much progress. The sales guy there says they're pretty backed up so it'll be a couple weeks. In the mean time, I disconnected the hard line to the rear axle hose and letting it drop drain into a bucket. The entire rear hard-line is coming out. It's tiny, old, and the fluid is red, when it's new fluid that should be clear. I'm not sure that the size makes much of a difference considering it's hydraulic. 3/16 cunifer line is going to be easier to work with and I have fittings already. Of course I'm not touching it until I have the other end in hand and I can confirm the fitting size. I love lists. Brake system Steering install after brakes Find leaks on the transmission Make a kick down rod Buy wheels and tires That will be a huge upgrade on this overall. No more leaky steering, solid reliable brakes, and radial tires. Not that I have much frame of reference for the stock product! Edit, I was inspired and put a little more effort out there. PS Pump is mounted now, since it's not in the way for brake stuff. And I sprayed down the fittings for the brakes with PB Blaster so they might come off next time I'm out there. The car is also fully on jackstands. I got a couple more Esco stands. I like that each one is good for 6000 lbs. In theory one could hold the whole car. Most stands are rated as pairs and I think that's misleading. And the fitting I have for brake lines fit in the hose on the rear. Which is good since it's new as of two years ago and I wasn't keen on finding a new one. I couldn't break the other side loose. I'm hoping it's a match! I did a little layout too for the fuel and brake lines, a slight bend should clear up my clearance issues. StormDrain fucked around with this message at 03:57 on Apr 19, 2021 |
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Apr 19, 2021 02:31
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I embraced my impulsiveness and I'm swapping the generator to an alternator on the Galaxie. It's about the easiest time since I've got most of the front apart. Of course now I have to figure out brackets and mounting and belting. Fortunately it's new enough that it has the right hole in the cylinder head for it, and brackets available from newer models. Just gotta find one. The alternator is a 6g Ford that I think is 110 amps and came from a newer Taurus. It's a fairly common swap. The light will work, which is nice. So now I have the steering brakes, and charging systems all in a state of disrepair. Well on addition to a bunch of other parts. Nearly everything actually. I'm fully in the stage of things are going to look worse before they look better. I'm a few deliveries away from turning the tide. Also I took off the front bow of the convertible top since the corners are rusted. I had all the ambition to take it off and none to actually do the metalwork yet, but it'll come. Now I'm also thinking it might be a good time to do headlight relays, even though it will rarely see darkness.
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May 3, 2021 04:57
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If you can accept the look, skip relays and go with good LEDs. It’s a lot simpler wiring and the vision improvement cannot be understated.
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May 3, 2021 05:09
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Advent Horizon posted:If you can accept the look, skip relays and go with good LEDs. It’s a lot simpler wiring and the vision improvement cannot be understated. If i saw leds that looked like old sealed beams, I would. I actually will probably put in LED brake lights since I think the incandescent lights are too dim. For the front I think I'll go with Hella E Codes though, which will benefit from the extra power and I like getting it out of the headlight switch.
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May 3, 2021 16:44
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Better buy them soon, then, I’ve noticed that some sizes have already been discontinued. I’ve seen in the Land Cruiser community that a bunch of people have the same concern about appearances, and I did too, but people have been buying really stupid poo poo. I saw a few people bragging about the ‘old-school-looking LEDs’ they installed and I had to tell them I’d be tempted to shatter those lights with a baseball bat. They all have a ‘pattern’ that would make a wall pack blush because they’re LED ‘bulbs’ in a cheap H4 housing. I, and others, pointed out the poo poo pattern but the buyers always get indignant. Anyways, rant over. I bought JW Speaker and I’ve been very happy with how not-ricer they look. The most obvious appearance change is the heater wires (remember, Alaska, I bought the heated versions). They’re way less obvious in person: 
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May 3, 2021 17:07
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Those look great! These are 5-3/4 which don't get the same love as 7" lights. I have no idea how many rectangle ones are out there though. I just spent a moment looking for my size and they all seem like scifi lights. I see headlights as such an important detail in how a car looks that I'm super picky. I guess if I should act soon I will. I've nearly bought them a few times but always rationalize that I'm a long way from driving so what difference does it make.
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May 3, 2021 17:18
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StormDrain posted:Those look great! These are 5-3/4 which don't get the same love as 7" lights. I have no idea how many rectangle ones are out there though. I just spent a moment looking for my size and they all seem like scifi lights. I see headlights as such an important detail in how a car looks that I'm super picky. You're dead on there. 5 3/4" LEDs all look like rear end, and I actually went and bought a fresh set of sealed-beam bulbs for my C10 because I can't find anything out there I like for it that isn't obscenely expensive for a set of four. The TJ, for whatever reason I have no reservations with trying to keep the sealed-beam look on it. The Opel gets the bonus of hiding the lights and I also give zero fucks how obnoxious the light pattern from it is because people straight up miss that car at night otherwise.
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May 3, 2021 17:24
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IOwnCalculus posted:You're dead on there. 5 3/4" LEDs all look like rear end, and I actually went and bought a fresh set of sealed-beam bulbs for my C10 because I can't find anything out there I like for it that isn't obscenely expensive for a set of four. The TJ I get, we've seen thousands of modified jeeps in our lifetimes. There's not a jeep look per se, maybe perhaps more is more? Function over form? Also even in the last two years there's been major strides in good looking 7" replacements. Anyway a set of Hellas are on the way now.
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May 4, 2021 01:16
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I knew this and forgot this, but the Hellas are more flat than the sealed beams. Not sure that it matters to me yet. Oh hell I'm going to be buying matching hi beams aren't I? The overall look is nice head on.  New on right, old on top, Hi beam on left.  And here's my new Alt and a potential pulley. These misc parts always feel like I'm a catalog or a bin away from finding the right one or a grinder or lathe away from modifying one. I think if I take this lip off of the alternator this double pulley is perfect on the outside one. I'm going to wait until I get the bracket in (which is another gamble) before I make any cuts. 
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May 7, 2021 03:57
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 Cosntant but slow. Keeps it moving along at least. Had to order some hardware to mount the alternator, I needed a 5.5" 7/16 bolt which is not local, and a spacer as well. And a curved tensioner rod or mount or whatever we call it to reach the ear. The generator mounted low and this mount is high. Functionally no difference to me. Plenty of clearance for either. Also got a headlight relay harness so I put that in loosely. I like that it grounds each headlight, should provide plenty of power. The alternator is a true side quest that has no bearing on my other jobs, I am still waiting on the new brake stuff to ship which is the Mai of the driver of the story here. But you know what, despite not making progress I'm spending a lot of time planning and thinking on this project and that alone is giving me a lot of enjoyment. I'm doing three things (alternator, steering, brakes, lights) that wasn't on my original plan and I think will make the car more fun to own. I've also been driving the truck around on weekends and just having a great time. It starts easily, stops and steers great, and the new radio is a step up. Feels good man.
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May 9, 2021 23:19
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The slow work continues. Slow work is also well considered work. As you saw above the alternator was in and I was waiting on the adjusting bracket. I received it, and took my time on how to modify it, since it was about 4" too long. Drilled a new hole for mounting, clipped the end off and fitted it loosely. Then dug into wiring. The Ford manual shows the layout for generators and alternators, Alternators were standard on Mercury's but I guess the best Ford trim you can buy doesn't get one. And there it is, mounted low using the same or nearly the same bracket I have, and my modified bracket was too short now. Rather than buy a new one I welded my pieces back together and repainted them.  Worked perfectly. Everything's a little wet as I wiped the engine down too. I put on a harness for the headlights, stripped it of the cheesy wrap and put a nicer wrap on, and secured it all down with pegged zip ties.   Lighting to the front of the car, power for the interior on the left. Both original positions. I also ordered a belt for my power steering pump, and noticed it wasn't aligned well and cut down a bushing by 3/8, I'm headed out for shorter bolts now. Once I get the belt tomorrow I'll put the radiator back in. This new pump also solved my problem of not having the clearance on my old pump from the belt to the lower radiator hose. Whats next: new horns, a power stud for power in place of the generator regulator, replace my dash speaker since access is great, and hope I get some more parts to keep me going. Saw this posted the other week. I love the features. Electric clock! 
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May 16, 2021 20:13
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| # ? Jun 10, 2024 13:49 |
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StormDrain posted:Saw this posted the other week. I love the features. Electric clock! And directional signals! Wonder what a ‘normal’ down payment was?
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May 16, 2021 20:25
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