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Woah, thanks for the informative post. I'm looking at the plastic bushings mainly for an increase in longetivity and I suppose a slight increase in handling, and I don't mind sacrificing a little bit of ride quality for it. I don't track my car, but I do drive it hard now and again. I guess I'll keep shopping around and see if any shops in my area can help me out. Edit: forgot to mention it's a non-ix. (330i) spodycart fucked around with this message at 21:57 on Aug 27, 2009 |
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Aug 27, 2009 19:10
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jesus gently caress I love driving this car... especially now that I'm actually driving it correctly. (1999 M3 Conv 5spd) So glad I bought this
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Aug 28, 2009 07:25
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peterjmatt posted:Sorry for the long post, but I'm just a little tired of everyone pushing poly bushings, especially for major component mounts (engine, tranny, rear subframe, etc). They have their place, but they're just not a perfect fit for every application. Is the main downside to putting these in the rear subframe mounts the increased noise/vibration, or the fact that they don't offer much (any) improvement for normal driving? I may have to have the rear subframe out at some point, and figured it would be a good opportunity to replace these. I'd been looking at the urethane kits, thinking that they wouldn't need replacing again, but now I'm not so sure if that's a good plan.
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Aug 28, 2009 13:05
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Taymar posted:I'd been looking at the urethane kits, thinking that they wouldn't need replacing again, but now I'm not so sure if that's a good plan. Yes it is. That's the ONLY part where I'd push urethane on everyone, just because it's such a PITA to replace them again. All the other bushings are cake in comparison.
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Aug 28, 2009 16:03
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General question, but my only option to recharge my r12 A/C is a trip to Mexico, or are there other options?
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Aug 29, 2009 00:42
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Clockwork Sputnik posted:General question, but my only option to recharge my r12 A/C is a trip to Mexico, or are there other options? I think I saw somebody selling propane-sized cans of R12 on Ebay, once. You could look for something like that, or convert your A/C system to R134a.
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Aug 29, 2009 02:27
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KillerFuzzball posted:I think I saw somebody selling propane-sized cans of R12 on Ebay, once. You could look for something like that, or convert your A/C system to R134a. That conversion is super freakin expensive. Especially for an 87 6 series. There are r12 substitutes online. Anyone used those?
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Aug 29, 2009 02:43
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Duracool (marketed as an R12 substitute) is supposed to work well. It is a propane and butane mix. Propane itself also well as an R12 replacement, and we have used it in a few tractors. I would probably just grab some gauges from harbor freight and a cheap venturi vacuum pump and try to refill the system myself. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=92649 http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=96677 If you think you have a leak, just pressurize the system with air, and spray some soapy water on the connections to see if anything bubbles. This kinda kills your drier, but on an old vehicle it is probably dead already.
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Aug 29, 2009 15:54
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Clockwork Sputnik posted:That conversion is super freakin expensive. Especially for an 87 6 series. IIRC, it's a matter of getting a new compressor, a new dryer, and new o-rings. A compressor can be bought for a fairly low price used, the dryer unit costs maybe $20-$40 for an unoriginal replacement, and o-rings are peanuts at the dealer.
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Aug 29, 2009 16:06
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I may not be getting into a BMW right now after all.  The guy with the ashtray-smelling 325iT never called me back, so I can only assume he still hasn't taken possession of the title. No problem there, cause I'm not really confident I'd ever get the smell out anyway. The guy with the 530i really doesn't want to sell the car. Either that, or he just really likes the back-and-forth negotiating. I offered him $8k, $495 short of his asking price, and he's refused so far. The car has been on the market for a few months ... now I know why. It's a 5-speed, it's priced slightly over book, and the current seller would rather have it rot/depreciate in the garage than come down from his asking price. He's crazy if he thinks he'll ever sell it like that.
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Aug 29, 2009 18:43
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Alright. I really want HID headlights--I previously hosed around with a cheap HID kit that burned out on me one night while driving (only one side). The light cut off was decent since it's a h7 housing in a projector headlamp. I really don't want to go back to the unreliability of cheap chinese HID kits. Well now I'm back to the ol' regular halogen headlights with Silverstar Ultra's in them currently. Is there a way I can just buy HID purposed headlamps and just buy OEM ballasts and bulbs? Would they just plug and play since Xenon headlights were an option on this car and both the halogen and HID headlights use a projector? Or would I have to gently caress with the wires and modify the gently caress out of it? My previous Lexus IS300's HIDs spoiled me and my night time driving BTW, it's a 2003 BMW Z4.
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Aug 29, 2009 23:23
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Swap_File posted:Duracool (marketed as an R12 substitute) is supposed to work well. It is a propane and butane mix. Propane itself also well as an R12 replacement, and we have used it in a few tractors. Propane and butane? That sounds kinda dangerous? Can't hurt to try, I suppose. Thanks for the links!
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Aug 30, 2009 01:10
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I was looking at these cell phone pics of my car from a few nights ago, and I think they really speak to the timeless styling of the E36.  This car will be eighteen years old in a month, and it looks like it could be a model year 09. For comparison, here are some other cars made in 1992: Mustang  Camry  Taurus 
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Aug 31, 2009 12:34
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^^yup! The boxy, conservative styling is what makes it hang around without screaming "HOLY poo poo SO OLD". I kind of like what Bangle did with the more modern BMW's but I prefer the old school to be honest. I also believe the E39 5-series/M5 is the most timeless design they've ever made. It's just a loving handsome looking car.
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Aug 31, 2009 17:44
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I concur. Not a day goes by that I look back at the car I've gotten out of, and think 'drat that's still an attractive car.'  Although I do prefer the sleeker coupe's lines. CornHolio fucked around with this message at 18:13 on Aug 31, 2009 |
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Aug 31, 2009 18:10
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Agreed. The 15" basketweaves and dealer installed pin striping might date it a little bit but I still think it looks better than 90% of the other cars I see on the road.
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Aug 31, 2009 18:28
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 Removing the center console from the back seat only took like twenty minutes (and once you see how it all comes apart you can do it in seconds). Then I filled the cracked/missing foam pieces in with that spray foam used for sealing pipes, then let it sit overnight. In the morning it was a giant bubbling over uneven mess as expected, but cutting it mostly straight and then sanding it smooth only took half an hour or so. Spray some adhesive on the new leather (~40 bucks depending on where you get it), reassemble everything, done - it makes a world of difference in making the interior look nice and pristine.
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Aug 31, 2009 20:21
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Mr. Onslaught posted:I was looking at these cell phone pics of my car from a few nights ago, and I think they really speak to the timeless styling of the E36. God drat that color looks good in that lighting, ignoring the pic quality.
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Sep 1, 2009 12:36
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After getting an oil change, fluid flush, rear brakes done, water pump belt replaced and control arm bushings done  on my 2003 e46 touring (I can't really bitch, it has required zero stuff outside of regular maintenence so far) I now find when I start it up in the morning the engine lugs quite a bit. I goose it a little with the throttle and all is well. Any tips on what this might be and how much it may cost me? Please say bad gas
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Sep 1, 2009 20:21
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the new BMW 550i Gran Turismo!
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Sep 1, 2009 22:15
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priznat posted:After getting an oil change, fluid flush, rear brakes done, water pump belt replaced and control arm bushings done Check the connector/contacts to the Air flow sensor.
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Sep 1, 2009 22:21
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Clockwork Sputnik posted:Check the connector/contacts to the Air flow sensor. Excellent, thanks I will check that out. Found this guide in case I need to pop the MAF out to give it a cleaning. Think I may just give it a go! (I'm a total car mechanic noob but this one looks simple enough even for me)
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Sep 1, 2009 22:41
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I've gone through about 30 or so pages of this thread so far so appologies if this is a repeat. I've got an E30 ('89) 325i and I'm going to be replacing my brake pads and rotors all around this coming weekend. I'm mostly a novice but the Haynes manual shows this as a 2-wrench job plus I'm getting the help of an experienced friend as well. He's never done the job on an E30, however. Is there anything we need to be on the lookout for that could pose a difficulty specific to my model? Also, I've got an issue with my front suspension that I'd like to take a look at when the car is up and the wheel is off. When my front right wheel goes over sharp bumps I hear a bang. The wheel also wiggles slightly if I push on it. I don't hear or feel any kind of instability while driving, however, even at highway speeds. I realize this is a pretty nebulous description of the problem, but I'm just looking for input on where to start looking. I'd appreciate any help!
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Sep 1, 2009 23:42
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Cleaned the connector to the MAF Sensor like you recommended, Clockwork Sputnik. Started up smooth as silk after that. Thanks a bunch for the tip! Something even a complete car repair noob like me can handle.
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Sep 2, 2009 23:18
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McMadCow posted:I've gone through about 30 or so pages of this thread so far so appologies if this is a repeat. Brakes should be easy, not sure if yo really need caliper spreaders but I didnt need them for my e36. As for your suspension issue, it sounds like a well destroyed lower control arm bushing (lcab). Your control arm ball joints bay be worn (loose) or siezed, depending on age and wear. As for replacement, it's moderately difficult for a novice to replace control arms and lcabs, but doable with access to a press (for the lcabs). Spend the extra money for lemforder suspension parts, unless you feel like doing it all over again. RMEuropean.com is a great part source.
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Sep 3, 2009 07:40
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You don't need a caliper spreader for brakes; just a big pair of channel lock pliers. You'll also need a 5mm allen (I think it's a 5; I remember it's smaller than new BMWs) for the rotor set screw. That should be it for tools, in addition to the aforementioned two wrenches. And if you're in the rust belt then you should stock up on some PB Blaster. Banging over bumps could be a few things- worn out control arm ball joints, CABs, swaybar links, or the upper strut bearing. Or some bolts could be loose somewhere. Hard to say without driving it.
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Sep 3, 2009 07:53
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The parking lot at work this morning: My $3k car('93 325is), exec's $35k car ('08 335i), engineer's $20k car ('05 ZHP). All manual.
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Sep 3, 2009 18:29
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I pretty much need new rotors and brake pads bad on my 2002 E46 M3. The previous owner said he really liked BMW pads even though they left a lot of brake dust - said they felt the best. I am naturally leaning towards going the OEM route but was wondering if there were any other recommendations for brake pads and rotors. I'm not tracking this car but I don't want AutoZone Gold Series on it either. Anyone have an affordable recommendation that will perform as well as the BMW pads did or should I just stick with those? Thanks. (I'm way too new to German car parts. )
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Sep 6, 2009 00:34
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VibrioCholera posted:Anyone have an affordable recommendation that will perform as well as the BMW pads did or should I just stick with those? Thanks. Axxis Ultimates
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Sep 6, 2009 00:47
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VibrioCholera posted:Anyone have an affordable recommendation Mintex from RM European. Cheap and good.
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Sep 6, 2009 06:00
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Hawk HPS seem to come highly recommended.
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Sep 6, 2009 10:59
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The lease on my z4 coupe is up in less than 2 months so I'm looking for my next BMW. At this point I'm leaning strongly towards an 04-06 m3. Any good ideas where to look? I've been searching autotrader, cars.com, craigslist for the few big cities near me, and posted something on m3forum.net. I really like Barney Purple (interlagos) and Smurf Blue (laguna seca), but both seem hard to find. Everyone likes black and silver and smg.
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Sep 6, 2009 15:36
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Interlagos was only offered on competition packaged cars over here, so they're going to be hard to find...especially cheap. It's my favorite M-color though.
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Sep 6, 2009 15:54
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I'm a long time e30 fan. I recently sold my 325is, and am on the market for a Lachsillber/Cardinal e30 m3. The Alpineweiss II car, was a US bmw 325is with the m-tech2 kit installed by the dealership. It's rocking 15" BBS RS01s and the Bronzitbeige has got the 15" Konis painted black. I ended up puting the IE Stage 3 springs and koni yellows on the alpineweiss, which gave it a better stance. But for some reason I like these photos. But here are some shots of my babies:    
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Sep 7, 2009 00:56
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Here are some pics of the E34 540 I bought a few weeks ago. I got it very cheap, and I love the fact that I've saved so much money on a car that is quite rare and can be expensive. It's from 1993, and has 258000km. Same owner (nice guy) for the past 7 years, and has had tons of wear parts changed in his ownership. Pretty much the entire suspension and brakes, cat, A/C refilled, and most importantly, the 5HP30 gearbox completely overhauled 70000km ago, so that should hopefully last a while. The engine sounds sweeeeeet, even better than the otherwise great sounding M30 (R6) engine I had in the previous E34. It's angry and fast, already from 2000 RPM it has 300+ Nm. Driving a V8 is just awesome, now I know what you Americans are talking about. It's quite muffled though, although I don't want to come off as a ricer either, so I think I'll stick to stock suspension and intake. Automatic transmission, which was my main reason for getting a new car. Nothing's sweeter than just putting your foot down and having it go. The tiny downsides of it are nothing compared to the level of comfort and reduced level of stress and annoyance from city driving. I drive 90% city, so it's a huge relief for me. gently caress manual, I'll never buy a non-auto car again for daily driving. The tranny has two modes, A (adaptive) and S (sport). In A, it "learns" how you drive and "adapts"... I dunno, personally I just see it as an eco / comfort mode. It shifts at max 3000 RPM, doesn't let in much air to the engine, and quickly upshifts when you begin cruising. It always starts in this mode, and I always keep it in A until the engine is warm. Great way to force yourself to not stress the engine. In S, the full rev band can be used, and the engine can get full air. Also, it hesitates to upshift on heavy load, for example, if you floor it and release the gas pedal at 4000 RPM, it'll take 4-5 seconds of cruising until it upshifts, because it anticipates that you might just be taking a corner or something. Pretty neat. It came with a pretty good batch of options; fully automatic A/C, cruise control, leather seats, wood trim (meh), and well, the 540 just has a lot of options stock, such as 4x power windows, fogs, computer (BC4) etc. The only thing missing is a sunroof, which I'm a bit sad about, but I can live without. It also came with a good Blaupunkt head unit. The only annoying thing about it is that almost all panels have been swapped. It's missing the wide V8 front, it has the old pre-facelift doors, and even the trunk lid appears to have been swapped, as all the wires to it have been cut and patched together. Highly annoying, but oh well, I can always put on new doors/hood. It also has the absurd behavior that the central locking can't be opened with the key in the doorlock. When I bought it, the owner told me that I had to use the IR remote to open it and a key to close it. I tried re-coding the infrared key as I read that a weak battery in the remote could be the cause of it, and since then, the IR remote didn't work at all. So for a few weeks, I had to get in with the emergency mechcanical opening, and pull fuse #33 to get all the door locks to the open. That sucked, now I have an unoriginal remote system in it that works. On to the pics.  Old 530 (R6) and the new one. The E34 is a great car, and it's economically wise to stick to the same car, plus it's great that I already know almost everything about it for DIY.  Some moron (not the PO) saved off the otherwise great looking stock exhaust pipes and put on this ricer monstrosity. I'll get rid of it soon.  The white indicators suit the color pretty well, so it's just silver/black. I'll keep them.   
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Sep 7, 2009 01:23
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Having been tossing the idea of a BMW around in my head, I'be been looking at sub-$4000 BMW's lately, most interested in getting an older one, like an E30, but came across a few newer ones that seem really cheap... 1997 BMW 318i-Morea Green - $3000 1996 BMW 328 IS - $3500 Im assuming the downside to these is they will new a lot of wear parts replaced soon? When it comes to older BMW's...mid/late 80's early 90's 3 series, what are some things to look out for? Stuff that should have been replaced, stuff that fails, any particular ones that are more reliable that others..Anything to avoid...etc.. Preferably I would like to pick something up that wont necessarily require me dumping wads of cash at it right away..Or am I kidding myself. Thanks in advance. unknown poster fucked around with this message at 18:46 on Sep 7, 2009 |
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Sep 7, 2009 05:24
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unknown poster posted:
To my knowledge no such thing as 328is exists.
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Sep 7, 2009 06:22
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LCN posted:To my knowledge no such thing as 328is exists. This just indicates an E36 3-series coupe with a 2.8L engine.
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Sep 7, 2009 06:28
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LCN posted:To my knowledge no such thing as 328is exists. A simple google search would show you that in fact they do. Also, the wikipedia e36 model chart isn't very accurate- there was also a 323is in the states.
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Sep 7, 2009 06:28
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unknown poster posted:1996 BMW 328 IS - $3500 Key Words: e36 , audi , bimmer , truck , gmc , chevy , 1996 , bmw , 328 , is , coupe , 2 door 
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Sep 7, 2009 09:48
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