|
Get a jamb saw or undercut saw. Manual ones look like a handsaw someone bent in two places, electric look like the bastard child of a router and a circ saw.
|
#
?
Oct 2, 2014 02:02
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 28, 2024 12:13 |
|
|
kastein posted:Get a jamb saw or undercut saw. Manual ones look like a handsaw someone bent in two places, electric look like the bastard child of a router and a circ saw.
|
|
#
?
Oct 2, 2014 05:28
|
|
|
Oh, I thought just the bottom edge of the drawer front face was catching on the floor. So I figured cut a sliver off the bottom edge of the drawer face and slide it out. Maybe I misinterpreted things.
|
|
#
?
Oct 2, 2014 05:50
|
|
|
The problem is that the door can't move out of the wall at all until the cut is completely done, and the cutter can't go three and a half feet into the wall.
|
|
#
?
Oct 2, 2014 14:05
|
|
|
Leperflesh posted:All that aside: if this kitchen were totally up to code, the above-counter outlets have to be on at least two 20A circuits, period. That part is unequivocal. Yes, current code calls for at least two GFCI protected 20A appliance receptacle circuits in a kitchen. Get ready for that to become CAFCI.
|
|
#
?
Oct 2, 2014 15:46
|
|
|
Splizwarf posted:The problem is that the door can't move out of the wall at all until the cut is completely done, and the cutter can't go three and a half feet into the wall. So use an oscillating multitool to start the cut while the door is in the wall, and then light the little piece you're cutting off on fire so that the waste door burns away as you draw the door out of the pocket and continue the cut. Duh.
|
|
#
?
Oct 2, 2014 17:09
|
|
|
The Human Cow posted:So use an oscillating multitool to start the cut while the door is in the wall, and then light the little piece you're cutting off on fire so that the waste door burns away as you draw the door out of the pocket and continue the cut. Duh. A good joke but if I was going to try anything, a fat router bit might really be able do this.
|
|
#
?
Oct 2, 2014 17:42
|
|
|
Couldn't you just swap the breaker for a GFCI breaker at the panel and call it good? Protects the entire circuit without loving around with replacing receptacles.
|
|
#
?
Oct 2, 2014 17:49
|
|
|
I figured I'd take the saw and just cut a slice along the wall in which the pocket door is stored, until I'd cut off the bottom inch of the whole door. Then, slide the door out, and replace the cut piece of wall.Motronic posted:Yes, current code calls for at least two GFCI protected 20A appliance receptacle circuits in a kitchen. What, like this? That'd be kinda cool. One run of three-conductor NM-B gets you two protected circuits, provided they're near each other. PopeCrunch posted:Couldn't you just swap the breaker for a GFCI breaker at the panel and call it good? Protects the entire circuit without loving around with replacing receptacles. Hmmm. 
Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 17:51 on Oct 2, 2014 |
|
#
?
Oct 2, 2014 17:49
|
|
|
Not seeing the problem there. Pull the appropriate breaker out, install new gfci breaker.
|
|
#
?
Oct 2, 2014 18:03
|
|
|
PopeCrunch posted:Couldn't you just swap the breaker for a GFCI breaker at the panel and call it good? Protects the entire circuit without loving around with replacing receptacles. It costs 3+ times as much and then you need to go to the panel to reset it after a trip. And for kitchen appliances, this can happen A LOT. Older AC motors + GFCIs don't get along.
|
|
#
?
Oct 2, 2014 18:19
|
|
|
Leperflesh posted:I figured I'd take the saw and just cut a slice along the wall in which the pocket door is stored, until I'd cut off the bottom inch of the whole door. Then, slide the door out, and replace the cut piece of wall. Router a channel, dismount and trim pocket door, drop a threshold. Section wall to size of door, tilt out to remove door horizontally. Dismount and create alternate track leading out closest window. Lasers! 
|
|
#
?
Oct 2, 2014 19:00
|
|
|
Leperflesh posted:Hmmm. Might want to tighten down that top right screw, its clearly arced and melted. Is that a sub-panel?
|
|
#
?
Oct 2, 2014 19:10
|
|
|
Why are there neutrals and grounds going to the same bus? e: and please make sure those line voltages are off before you tighten that top right screw. StupidSexyMothman fucked around with this message at 19:21 on Oct 2, 2014 |
|
#
?
Oct 2, 2014 19:18
|
|
|
oldskool posted:Why are there neutrals and grounds going to the same bus? Hopefully because this is a main panel and this is the one place that they are tied together. It should have an outside disconnect since it's more than 6-throw, but I've seen plenty of times where it's been added onto later and no disconnect added. Yes, it's done wrong, but not in any sort of surprising way. In fact, the incorrect grounds and lovely insulation stripping correspond to the top right 3 newer looking breakers indicating this was shittilty done new work. Without those, it would be a 6 throw panel, and with the lovely work you can be reasonably assured there is no disconnect, so a meter will have to be pulled. While that's happening this panel should be replaced with a main breaker style panel and brought up to code. Motronic fucked around with this message at 19:37 on Oct 2, 2014 |
|
#
?
Oct 2, 2014 19:33
|
|
|
This is a little outside the norm for this thread, since it doesn't involve horrific construction practices or borderline-dangerous electrical work, but is still horrific in a different way: My co-worker was doing the demo work in his kitchen before he had contractors come in for renovation work, and got to the very last cabinet. Apparently, there was a hollow between the cabinet and the wall, and he...  ...He found something.  http://i.imgur.com/fY94sKr.jpgIt wasn't nailed to the wall, or otherwise secured. It was just... Stuck there, by the properties of whatever sticky substance it was covered in.
|
|
#
?
Oct 2, 2014 20:26
|
|
|
sbyers77 posted:Might want to tighten down that top right screw, its clearly arced and melted. This photo is a bit older, and in fact I recently had PG&E out for an unrelated matter and the guy tightened down that exact screw. This is the house's main panel. The only sub-panel is on the 40A circuit, which is dedicated to the A/C, and the A/C has a sub-panel with a single breaker in it. Motronic posted:Hopefully because this is a main panel and this is the one place that they are tied together. It should have an outside disconnect since it's more than 6-throw, but I've seen plenty of times where it's been added onto later and no disconnect added. This is the main panel, and there is no outside disconnect so we will indeed have to pull the meter to replace the panel. I don't know how old it is, but the wiring I find in the walls is very likely from when the house was built in 1958. Shittily-done electrical work is consistent with what I find throughout the house. I do intend to replace it but I want to also run 220 out to the garage at the same time, and maybe also ground outlets elsewhere in the house, and it'd be cool to not have one wall of the LR and all three BR on a single 15A circuit, and... yeah, so we're saving our bucks to do all that at once hopefully. e. Actually now I think about it I suppose we could plan out what circuits we want, just have a new panel installed (with a new main breaker too) with "future upgrade" capacity to the plan, and then do the house rewiring later? I don't really want to leave this panel in place for a year if it's going to kill someone or burn down my house. Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 00:13 on Oct 3, 2014 |
|
#
?
Oct 3, 2014 00:04
|
|
|
MrYenko posted:This is a little outside the norm for this thread, since it doesn't involve horrific construction practices or borderline-dangerous electrical work, but is still horrific in a different way: That's the Good Luck Phallus, put there to wish fertility upon the house, as long as you change the batteries regularly. It's an ancient Czech belief.
|
|
#
?
Oct 3, 2014 00:14
|
|
|
Leperflesh posted:e. Actually now I think about it I suppose we could plan out what circuits we want, just have a new panel installed (with a new main breaker too) with "future upgrade" capacity to the plan, and then do the house rewiring later? This is the right idea. Panels are cheap. Like, really cheap. You can get a 30-breaker panel for a couple bucks more than a 10-breaker. What's expensive is labor and the breakers. You NEED a main breaker panel. So the main breaker that is typically included is going to raise the price. If you get a panel that uses your existing breakers (Square D QD from what I can tell) you can keep them for now. Get this done first, because that is a horror show. If you were to upgrade to GFCI, AFCI or CAFCI breakers in the process of the panel being swapped out I can guarantee you will be sad, as they will all trip to a point where the are useless based on what you've posted so far. This is typical in an old house. It doesn't make it OK. It means you need to rewire so it doesn't burn down eventually. All of these things have a shelf life. The insulation on your wires appears to be smelling a but off. But that panel is absolutely rancid.
|
|
#
?
Oct 3, 2014 02:35
|
|
|
Motronic posted:The insulation on your wires appears to be smelling a but off. Hah, this reminds me of my dad's extension cord that I had to throw away last week. My dad bought it at an auction, and this was a pretty nice cord in its time: 40 feet long, 14 gauge, industrial 3 prong, super thick exterior rubber insulation. The first thing I noticed was that the insulation was cracking around the outlet end, so I decided to take the outlet off and move it back a few inches. When I took the outlet off, I noticed that all the exposed wire insulation was gone. No biggie, I stripped the outer insulation back further. Well, the inner insulation on the individual wires literally flaked off when I touched it. Oh, and there wasn't a ground wire inside either, despite having a 3 prong plug and outlet. Into the trash with the whole thing! It took a long while, but my dad is starting to understand my safety paranoia.
|
|
#
?
Oct 3, 2014 03:36
|
|
|
My dad nonchalantly removed constant-powered porch accent lamps from the wall today without turning the power off. The loving breaker is 50 feet away in the basement god drat it, I don't want to bury you dad.  Then he got up in my face and told me there was no way 110 would kill him and that he'd been shocked by it plenty of times before without injury when I told him he was being stupid. DAD, IF YOU loving TURNED BREAKERS OFF, YOU WOULDN'T GET SHOCKED. JESUS. Oh, hey, here's some crappy construction from his house. gently caress whoever put those heating pipes in back in the 70s or earlier. Parents bought the place in 91 and it had clearly already been an issue for decades at that point, the inspector recommended a lally column and it was purchased but never got around to installing it. I was 5 then, now I end up coming back and installing it   Chucklefuck decided it would be perfectly fine to knock out a few bricks… yeah they just so happen to be under the end of a 6x6 beam supporting a load bearing wall. It's mortise and tenon beam construction, but the mortise and tenon couldn't handle the weight alone clearly, thus the giant split. The joists are also mortise and tenon'd into the sides of the beam, so guess what? They're supported by the bottom half of the now-split beam, while the top half is supported by the remains of the mortise and tenon joint. Always wondered why those floors were bouncy. More pics of the busted poo poo and work in progress to shore it back up in my mickey moused hellhole thread, though I haven't posted the latest and probably won't till tomorrow.
|
|
#
?
Oct 3, 2014 04:27
|
|
|
Slugworth posted:But it's kind of *not* on people to not exceed a circuit Not with Stab-Lok! Motronic posted:Yes, it's done wrong, but not in any sort of surprising way. In fact, the incorrect grounds and lovely insulation stripping correspond to the top right 3 newer looking breakers indicating this was shittilty done new work. Without those, it would be a 6 throw panel, and with the lovely work you can be reasonably assured there is no disconnect, so a meter will have to be pulled. the single saving grace of my house's terrifying electrical system is that we do have a disconnect, in a box on its own right next to the meter, despite the fact that the panel's a frightening federal pacific electric 20-throw panel fulla stab-lok breakers, so we won't have to pull the meter to replace the panel. atomicthumbs fucked around with this message at 09:36 on Oct 3, 2014 |
|
#
?
Oct 3, 2014 09:23
|
|
|
Motronic posted:CAFCI breakers Haven't heard of these yet, so I looked them up. And of course they're going to be mandatory soon. PROGRESS  Edit: Never mind, I read a different article that said it shouldn't trip on those arcs. I just have terrible luck, I guess. One Legged Ninja fucked around with this message at 13:34 on Oct 3, 2014 |
|
#
?
Oct 3, 2014 13:24
|
|
|
Arc fault interrupt breakers are currently required at least in my home area for any bedroom circuits that are new or re-worked. They are expensive right now but I think that with them becoming more and more widely used they will come down significantly in price. Even at current prices, they are cheap insurance from what is probably one of the most common reasons houses burn down.
|
|
#
?
Oct 3, 2014 14:01
|
|
|
DNova posted:Arc fault interrupt breakers are currently required at least in my home area for any bedroom circuits that are new or re-worked. They are expensive right now but I think that with them becoming more and more widely used they will come down significantly in price. Even at current prices, they are cheap insurance from what is probably one of the most common reasons houses burn down. There are also AFCI plugs that you can get, which are about half the price. And your only option if your panel if you have a panel with discontinued breakers like I do. Or maybe you can find some new-old stock and put in another 100 amp breaker to run a sub panel.
|
|
#
?
Oct 3, 2014 14:20
|
|
|
Found this bad boy in the bathroom of a bar I was playing trivia at last night.
|
|
#
?
Oct 3, 2014 16:37
|
|
|
Things I've found at my latest job on an 11 year old home that just sold for over $600k (it's on a postage stamp and has $225/mo association fees): Why, yes that is an after-the-fact sump pit in a house that's only 11 years old with a finished basement. There is another one on the other side of the basement that was original. Guess it couldn't keep up.  Yep. Genuine duct tape on ducts. This is all over the place where I can see. I assume it's everywhere I can't see as well.  Hey Cletus, want me to get the drill? Nah, that's OK I'll just use my framing hammer. And I couldn't get a really good picture of this one, but basically they had these lights:  installed into a built-in presentation case. You guessed it: they ran the lamp cord in the wall, lopped off the plug and attached it to a dimmer switch in the wall.
|
|
#
?
Oct 3, 2014 16:50
|
|
|
The Human Cow posted:Found this bad boy in the bathroom of a bar I was playing trivia at last night. DEAR LORD THE HORROR Or am I missing something? Tiny-rear end little niche it's stuck in, maybe?
|
|
#
?
Oct 3, 2014 17:35
|
|
|
It's just the wrong size toilet seat, right?
|
|
#
?
Oct 3, 2014 17:37
|
|
|
Motronic posted:Things I've found at my latest job on an 11 year old home that just sold for over $600k (it's on a postage stamp and has $225/mo association fees): Isn't this already 2 sump pumps/pits? Are there 3 total?
|
|
#
?
Oct 3, 2014 18:00
|
|
|
Notice the one on the left is sealed. It's probably for waste for a basement bathroom.
|
|
#
?
Oct 3, 2014 18:07
|
|
|
^^^ Yep. It's a sanitary sewer lift/grinder pump pit for the powder room and wet bar in the basement.
|
|
#
?
Oct 3, 2014 18:12
|
|
|
I work 2 floors underground and at the end of our hallway there's a room labelled "TurboLift" that does the same thing, and as an IT department full of nerds we find that hilarious.
|
|
#
?
Oct 3, 2014 18:30
|
|
|
Zamboni Apocalypse posted:DEAR LORD THE HORROR I just liked the round toilet seat on the elongated bowl.
|
|
#
?
Oct 3, 2014 18:31
|
|
|
The Human Cow posted:I just liked the round toilet seat on the elongated bowl. Your job is to aim at the open space between the edge of the seat and the bowl.
|
|
#
?
Oct 3, 2014 18:33
|
|
|
DNova posted:Even at current prices, they are cheap insurance from what is probably one of the most common reasons houses burn down. Arc faults on bedroom circuits are nowhere near one of the most common causes of house fires - less than 2%, maybe even less than 1%. They are one of the more dangerous sources though, accounting for around 5% of deaths. (Side note: considering only the ratio of AFCI circuit breakers to lives saved, it's more efficient to put your living room on an AFCI breaker than the bedrooms)
|
|
#
?
Oct 3, 2014 19:18
|
|
|
Ahhh, poo poo, I did miss that. Thought it was some pedestal base. I wish I had a picture of the bathroom at a motel in Wenatchee, WA. Was there for a convention years back, and one of the bathrooms was.. really large. Like, 15+ feet by 25-30. With a sing, and one lonely non-cubical'd toilet, on a 6x6 platform lifted up about eight inches off the floor. And the entire room, ceiling and all, done in a hand-painted underwater motif. Neptune's Throne Room Not "crappy", just  .
|
|
#
?
Oct 3, 2014 19:18
|
|
|
Zhentar posted:Arc faults on bedroom circuits are nowhere near one of the most common causes of house fires - less than 2%, maybe even less than 1%.
|
|
#
?
Oct 3, 2014 20:02
|
|
|
Zhentar posted:Arc faults on bedroom circuits are nowhere near one of the most common causes of house fires - less than 2%, maybe even less than 1%. They are one of the more dangerous sources though, accounting for around 5% of deaths. Well I meant arcing wiring in general, not specifically bedrooms. I'd like to have everything on arc fault interrupters, and I will when it's more reasonable to do so.
|
|
#
?
Oct 3, 2014 20:37
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 28, 2024 12:13 |
|
|
kastein posted:More pics of the busted poo poo and work in progress to shore it back up in my mickey moused hellhole thread, though I haven't posted the latest and probably won't till tomorrow. Can you link to this thread?
|
|
#
?
Oct 3, 2014 21:53
|
|
