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PBCrunch posted:I'd lean more towards bushings. A tech can make some gravy money selling you a set of quick struts (struts with new mounts and springs. Installing new bushings is a potential quagmire that could take a long time and not pay very well (low book time compared to actual repair time). I'm guessing a bit of both. It looks like it's sagging slightly in the back, but not bad enough to cause that much camber. Eclipse12 posted:In the compartment the top folds into, there are these weird holes in the body. What the hell could cause something like this? Stereo equipment. I'm surprised you're not finding any janky wiring back there.
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Feb 23, 2022 00:19
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That actually makes sense. Thanks!
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Feb 23, 2022 00:33
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You should post the alignment sheet. With the tires, I’m pretty sure toe is supposed to be considerably worse wear-wise when it’s gone awry. So I wonder if that’s what did them in, and the camber, while it may be a bit outside of the target, it’s still within Honda’s tolerances.
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Feb 23, 2022 01:04
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2005 Honda Accord with a lot of miles. Dashboard warning light about the ABS came on recently. According to the manual, the car should go in for service ASAP because the brakes could lock. Can I take it to my usual garage, which is a general family-owned place, or does this need to go to a Honda specialist? I had some bad experiences finding a mechanic I could trust for my previous car, so I'm not thrilled about potentially needing to go through that again. Meantime, is it safe to drive if road conditions are good? I need to commute to an office once a week and could manage on transit if necessary.
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Feb 23, 2022 06:39
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STR posted:I'm guessing a bit of both. It looks like it's sagging slightly in the back, but not bad enough to cause that much camber. A quick google suggests that -1.25 degrees is the max allowable spec for the rear, so it might not take too much sagging to get to -1.5 or -2 from what went out the door as in spec. Are camber bolts a thing for newer cars or did that die out in the '90s? That would at least be cheaper than full on adjustable length control arms. gloom posted:2005 Honda Accord with a lot of miles. Dashboard warning light about the ABS came on recently. According to the manual, the car should go in for service ASAP because the brakes could lock. Can I take it to my usual garage, which is a general family-owned place, or does this need to go to a Honda specialist? I had some bad experiences finding a mechanic I could trust for my previous car, so I'm not thrilled about potentially needing to go through that again. Meantime, is it safe to drive if road conditions are good? I need to commute to an office once a week and could manage on transit if necessary. Any decent regular garage should be able to handle a faulty ABS system, especially something that old.
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Feb 23, 2022 08:41
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gloom posted:2005 Honda Accord with a lot of miles. Dashboard warning light about the ABS came on recently. According to the manual, the car should go in for service ASAP because the brakes could lock. Can I take it to my usual garage, which is a general family-owned place, or does this need to go to a Honda specialist? I had some bad experiences finding a mechanic I could trust for my previous car, so I'm not thrilled about potentially needing to go through that again. Meantime, is it safe to drive if road conditions are good? I need to commute to an office once a week and could manage on transit if necessary. Just remember if the brakes lock up, to pump the pedal (if ABS isn't working)
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Feb 23, 2022 09:09
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nitsuga posted:In general I would say some level of quality is a good idea. Even Mevotech stuff has been pretty good to me. But yeah, anecdotally, the boots and sprung bits on cheap parts always seem to fail prematurely and need to get replaced once again (with something better). Without knowing what's wrong, it's hard to say how much your friend would save, but I'll bet you'd save the most by narrowing down what the problem is and replacing just the affected components. At 100,000 miles it could be a number of things, but an inspection and test drive should narrow down what could be wrong. I think I saw Mevotech available for the SUV so I'll see if he can find that. Re: not needing suspension replacement by 100k, that was my rough guess on his mileage but it could be way higher, all I know is he said it feels sketch as hell when he hits bumps so it's definitely shot
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Feb 23, 2022 18:07
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gloom posted:2005 Honda Accord with a lot of miles. Dashboard warning light about the ABS came on recently. According to the manual, the car should go in for service ASAP because the brakes could lock. Can I take it to my usual garage, which is a general family-owned place, or does this need to go to a Honda specialist? I had some bad experiences finding a mechanic I could trust for my previous car, so I'm not thrilled about potentially needing to go through that again. Meantime, is it safe to drive if road conditions are good? I need to commute to an office once a week and could manage on transit if necessary. If the regular shop has anything above the most basic of code readers (the $120 code reader from Harbor Freight can even pull the ABS codes), they can figure out what's going on. It's generally a wheel speed sensor - which, as long as the car isn't crusty and rusty, is a pretty easy fix. The manual is probably fear mongering a bit - the brakes will only lock if you panic brake, or brake too hard in slick conditions. We lived without ABS for ages, but I would certainly get it fixed before your stormy season. Go find a dirt road and do some spirited braking, you'll get an idea of what it takes to lock up the brakes, and you'll get an idea of how hard you can brake before locking up (you'll also find out if the ABS is still trying to work). fake edit: you can even get the ABS codes using just a paper clip between two specific pins in the OBD2 port under the dash - it'll flash them out via the ABS light. Charles posted:Just remember if the brakes lock up, to pump the pedal (if ABS isn't working) This too.
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Feb 23, 2022 18:17
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My wife's 2013 Chevy Sonic has the anti-theft light coming on: She was able to drive it yesterday, but both times it didn't start on the first attempt. We looked up what to do, and she's tried leaving the key in the "run" position for 10 minutes but the light is still on. We've found these possible fixes online: -using the key to open the door manually -disconnecting the battery to reset the system -changing the battery in her key fob Is there anything else that we can do/any other options short of going to a mechanic just yet?
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Feb 24, 2022 16:01
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Those are the standard things. "Unlock the driver's door manually with the key" was a pretty common fix on older cars with factory security.
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Feb 24, 2022 16:05
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mactheknife posted:My wife's 2013 Chevy Sonic has the anti-theft light coming on: Battery in the fob is getting low and not transmitting a signal as well as it could be is my guess. Check your owners manual for instructions on how to change it.
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Feb 24, 2022 19:31
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Disconnecting the battery for a bit seems to have worked - thanks folks
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Feb 24, 2022 22:08
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What's the best front license plate mounting bracket for a 2018 Tiguan?
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Feb 25, 2022 03:05
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Leperflesh posted:What's the best front license plate mounting bracket for a 2018 Tiguan? I'd probably just throw the OEM one on unless you are REALLY opposed to drilling the bumper or you have strong opinions about aesthetics for some reason.
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Feb 25, 2022 14:10
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Leperflesh posted:What's the best front license plate mounting bracket for a 2018 Tiguan? I have one of these, but didn't install it because I went with a different option but the instructions were good and the product looks to be good quality and easy to install. https://www.slybrackets.com/store/SLY-BRACKET-FOR-VOLKSWAGEN-WITH-HORIZONTAL-OR-VERTICAL-SLATS-LOWER-GRILLE-p373293093
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Feb 25, 2022 15:06
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I don't have the oem bracket so i have to order or buy something. That slybracket sure is a hell of a website, lol, it it looks pretty solid thanks, $85 is a lot though?
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Feb 25, 2022 17:18
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Leperflesh posted:I don't have the oem bracket so i have to order or buy something. Eh, it's not too bad. OEM is showing up at about $60 at my local dealer, but you might find it cheaper elsewhere:https://parts.vw.com/p/Volkswagen_2018_Tiguan/License-Plate-Bracket/70107913/5NN8072879B9.html Otherwise, there is the tow hook variety, but I think they look worse personally: https://www.rho-plate.com/products/copy-of-volkswagen-tiguan-2018-rho-plate-v2
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Feb 25, 2022 17:58
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Yeah I don't care much for the off-center look. My Tiguan has a front sensor but the sensor isn't positioned in the middle, so a center-positioned front plate will be fine.  There is a lower cooler, I assume that's a transmission cooler, not excited to block part of it with a plate, but it looks like the OEM position blocks it too so it must not be an issue.
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Feb 25, 2022 18:26
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I always find the tow hook plates to be a little silly
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Feb 25, 2022 18:27
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I'm ordering the trailer harness from VW anyway so I think I'm gonna get the OEM plate bracket for $58 instead of the $85 aftermarket one. Thanks guys.
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Feb 25, 2022 18:36
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make sure that includes the pop rivets or attachment screws, whichever it needs
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Feb 25, 2022 19:35
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If it doesn't, I can come up with something. I've got threaded rod, nuts, screws out the wazoo, taps and dies, fuckin, epoxy, o/a welder, fluxcore welder, I'll get 'er stuck on.
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Feb 25, 2022 19:49
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I quest for a luxobarge since my E39 got hailbombed and turned into negative assets. https://denver.craigslist.org/cto/d/littleton-1998-lexus-ls400/7448351150.html This has so many theoretical red flags but also, it seems like a really good deal. If anybody has any raging thumbs-downs I'll hear 'em, but this seems sane and nice. Note hat i'm talking with the dude about the $5k without all the extra bling rim sets because I have a small rental and can't store the extras, nor do I care about them. Any knee-jerk takes?
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Feb 25, 2022 21:21
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A set of $600 coilovers seems like it's going to ruin the luxobarge comfort. I'm not saying that coilovers can't give a comfortable ride, but ones that cheap tend to be for people who want to slam it until the drain plug bolt serves as a rudder and don't care about a lovely ride.
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Feb 25, 2022 21:36
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A 24-year-old luxury car for $5,000 is an iffy proposition if you ask me. Mods like those are always a bit concerning too. I’d lean toward a newer, more stripped down model personally. There is a car buying thread in BFC that is definitely worth checking out, but you should really figure out what your budget and intention with the purchase is. EDIT: Maybe an Accord or Civic would fill the void without being too much of a headache... https://denver.craigslist.org/cto/d/denver-2008-honda-accord-ex-2-owners/7450567139.html https://denver.craigslist.org/cto/d/denver-honda-accord-2008-ex-v6/7446478251.html Otherwise, you could probably find a Camry or Corolla. BFC will recommend you the Prius almost no matter what your criteria are (for good reason). Scope out Facebook Marketplace too. nitsuga fucked around with this message at 22:16 on Feb 25, 2022 |
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Feb 25, 2022 21:51
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On the other hand, this is AI and having a project thread where you detail the horrors of the previous owner's work are half the fun. 
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Feb 25, 2022 22:00
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Yeah, NGL i have an '05 Expedition and an FZ1 and a DRZ so i am super set for Solid Vehicles, i'm gonna go with the hairy eyeball here and see if maybe i can get the base price knocked down. I'm cagey about vehicle purchases since covid but these things are usually a lot higher. we'll see how she drives tomorrow at 2pm
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Feb 25, 2022 22:28
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You can get a set of four quick struts for that thing on Rock Auto for about $400 if you don't like the ride. Make sure the electrics work. Really look closely at the quality of work in the engine replacement. Look for evidence of a power steering leak. On SC models with the same engine, the PS pump tends to leak on the alternator.
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Feb 25, 2022 23:26
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It's me again, 2011 Edge, 140k miles. Brake booster crapped out in September, was replaced, I had the same symptoms a few weeks ago where ABS engaged and brake feel went back to this: I took it back to the Ford dealer who did the booster replacement and after diagnostics commented Dealer shop diagnosis posted:Blocked off lines at master cylinder brake pedal is now firm. No visible leaks and brake fluid is full. Recommend HCU and lines that lead to the HCU This went on for a week, I got back from a trip and called them to ask WTF? They said the HCU is on backorder with no ETA. So I said cancel waiting on that and went to pick my car up. Thing is, the brake feel is fine now, back to normal responsiveness unlike that diagram I made above. What gives? Next time my ABS engages is this likely to happen? Is the Hydraulic Control Unit replacement a likely culprit or just an attempted bend-over? What they wanted to do was this:  So, rather than pay $2400 is it possible I can just flush the brakes? I didn't see a lot there that points to the HCU itself, but I certainly don't have more than a "physics 101 hydraulics section" understanding of how the braking subsystem works. This car has 140k on it, I've done all the pad and rotor replacement myself but have never opened up the brake system. Charles posted:There's an air bubble inside the abs module I bet? I haven't done it myself but took to a goon mechanic and my Mazda apparently had a weird bleeding procedure or something, Idk. He tried replacing the booster first too, but that wasn't the problem.
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Feb 26, 2022 04:02
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Hed posted:It's me again, 2011 Edge, Maybe I missed it the first time around, but why did you do this? Dealership mechanics are generally poo poo (or incentivized to do poo poo work) because of the way the current pay system works. Surely you can find a good independent mechanic near you to take a look at this non-warranty issue.
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Feb 26, 2022 04:13
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Motronic posted:Maybe I missed it the first time around, but why did you do this? When the brake pedal gain failed in the exact same manner under similar conditions as the last time, I took it to them since it seemed the same component (i.e. their 5 month old repair) failed. If you're asking about initially, it's because there was a TSP (it's referenced somewhere upthread in my postings) regarding a brake booster leak that had an ambiguity in whether it would be honored by Ford or not. If it had been covered by the TSP it wouldn't have been an expense in the first place. Any idea on what to do now? Hed fucked around with this message at 05:42 on Feb 26, 2022 |
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Feb 26, 2022 05:39
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Anybody have a subscription to the FSM /Alldata that can look up the correct procedure?
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Feb 26, 2022 06:59
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Hed posted:It's me again, 2011 Edge, 140k miles. Brake booster crapped out in September, was replaced, I had the same symptoms a few weeks ago where ABS engaged and brake feel went back to this: Ja, I commented on this in you earlier thread. Get a full system flush with ABS bleed, but at a brake shop. Are you still getting the hissing sound, and does performance improve with all of the other vacuum stuff (i.e. climate control) shut off? PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 16:21 on Feb 26, 2022 |
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Feb 26, 2022 16:16
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This probably broad question but how safe is it to drive slowly on what feels like a misfiring cylinder? I have a 2012 Chevy Sonic with the 1.8L. This morning while at a stop light it started idling roughly and accelerating roughly. The engine light came on but I don't have a code reader. I scheduled it for service on Wednesday and the center is about 4 miles away using back roads.
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Feb 26, 2022 16:52
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Hughmoris posted:This probably broad question but how safe is it to drive slowly on what feels like a misfiring cylinder? Is the light flashing? If so, that's a major misfire that can cause catalytic convert damage because of the raw fuel being thrown into your exhaust. 4 miles of gentle driving shouldn't cause an issue, but continued driving eventually will. If the light isn't flashing you're totally fine to make it to the shop. I'd still drive gently.
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Feb 26, 2022 16:55
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Motronic posted:Is the light flashing? If so, that's a major misfire that can cause catalytic convert damage because of the raw fuel being thrown into your exhaust. 4 miles of gentle driving shouldn't cause an issue, but continued driving eventually will. Yeah, its flashing.  I don't plan on driving it again until I have to take it to the shop, and I'll be going 35 mph all the way there. Thanks for the info.
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Feb 26, 2022 16:59
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PainterofCrap posted:Ja, I commented on this in you earlier thread. Get a full system flush with ABS bleed, but at a brake shop. Ha, sorry for not acting on that. I no longer have a hissing sound (which I did in the middle 2/3 of that brake travel), see no difference with climate on or off. It's basically back to normal. Does it make sense clamping the master cylinder for a test would have done that?
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Feb 27, 2022 01:56
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What they describe is removing the output tubes between the master & the ABS block, which would prove only that the MC itself is not leaking back through its piston. Doesn’t do a damned thing to show where in the rest of your system that you may have bound air. If they actually did this, they would have to bleed the ABS block and, really, the entire system at each corner. I’m gathering that they did not do this. In such case, you likely still have air in there somewhere, and, based on that pedal behavior, it’s somewhere that controls your rear brakes.
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Feb 27, 2022 02:21
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PainterofCrap posted:What they describe is removing the output tubes between the master & the ABS block, which would prove only that the MC itself is not leaking back through its piston. I *think* that's the feel I had when I had only one circuit (diagonal braking basically.) Not 100% sure as that was a while ago now.
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Feb 27, 2022 04:03
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Charles posted:I *think* that's the feel I had when I had only one circuit (diagonal braking basically.) Not 100% sure as that was a while ago now. Diagonal circuits? Just how old was this car? I though that idea was done by the mid 60s in favor of front/rear.....because it's insane and causes handling problems.
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Feb 27, 2022 04:06
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