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How hosed in the head does one have to be to pick up an MJ (unknown year, unknown mileage, but "it has the 6-cyl") Are many suspension/engine parts interchangeable between an MJ and XJ's ? I'm (still) looking for a trail rig and this one hit the stupid price marker....
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Jul 3, 2010 01:14
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Cheap Bourbon posted:How hosed in the head does one have to be to pick up an MJ (unknown year, unknown mileage, but "it has the 6-cyl") Are many suspension/engine parts interchangeable between an MJ and XJ's ? how far are you from nc. That 5k mj is fooooooking hawt!!!
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Jul 3, 2010 01:27
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Actually, I'm considering one that's 1 significant figure lower and yes, the one from NC has tempted me, but I can burn $650, I cant burn 5k....
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Jul 3, 2010 02:09
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Cheap Bourbon posted:Actually, I'm considering one that's 1 significant figure lower and yes, the one from NC has tempted me, but I can burn $650, I cant burn 5k.... quote:I bought this truck for my oldest boy hoping we could work on it together but he was not interested I don't know why but that was totally  for meWorking on stuff with my dad was the most fun I ever had as a kid. If I have a son that doesn't care, I'll be crushed. (really though from the CL post that looks like a serious piece of poo poo. You should probably buy it and treat it like it wants to be treated.)
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Jul 3, 2010 02:17
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Cheap Bourbon posted:How hosed in the head does one have to be to pick up an MJ (unknown year, unknown mileage, but "it has the 6-cyl") Are many suspension/engine parts interchangeable between an MJ and XJ's ? The MJ is the same from the cab forward, rear parts get harder to find. As for your link, stock tail lights are getting harder to find for MJ's. You could eventually snipe one off ebay or comancheclub, or just DIY autopart store replacements. The MJ leafs are different I think, this leaf spring guide I found explains it better than I could. Companies still sell MJ metric ton springs and lift springs though. Fuel pump is different I think, or may take some dicking around to get an XJ one into the MJ tank, I'm not sure. For the rear glass, motion offroad has a used one in stock for 50 bucks. If you can get it running, it should be fine, but you never know about other issues. All the drivetrain stuff is XJ swappable besides the driveshaft. If you have the know how and incentive, I'm sure it's doable. Big rust spots to check are floor boards (patch panels are 60 bucks a side), rockers, door frame, unibody/rail under the cab, unibody/rail and frame rail between the cab and bed (they like to crack there). I'm not sure how rotten your rigs get out in Virgina though. I don't know the most about MJ's but I was looking for one recently until my priorities changed. Comancheclub is a wealth of info on the things.
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Jul 3, 2010 02:46
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incredibull posted:I don't know why but that was totally 1) the rattle-can "Farm Use" on the tailgate means "I don't want/care/need/can't get this safety inspected in VA 2) the use out of this vehicle would be to get it to semi-DD use/snow/ORV use, so I'm not too concerned that the semi-veiled father-son bonding would be in jeopardy My concerns would be 1) engine -- Shouldn't be too terrible as long as I'm looking at an EFI 4.0L setup 2) suspension -- if it shares enough with the XJ platform I'll be happy.... If I were to treat it as a true AI thread, would the outlay be low enough for common replacement parts to get this thing semi-reliable (saayyy, less than 3k if the wrench is in my hands?) Slow is Fast posted:The MJ is the same from the cab forward, rear parts get harder to find. Cripes, even still... if the drat thing turns over, I'm not totally convinced I'm hosed from what I see in the pics... Cheap Bourbon fucked around with this message at 02:51 on Jul 3, 2010 |
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Jul 3, 2010 02:47
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Cheap Bourbon posted:1) the rattle-can "Farm Use" on the tailgate means "I don't want/care/need/can't get this safety inspected in VA For your concerns: 1. You're looking at a Renix ECU'd 4.0L. I think 91 they switched to the crystler HO ECU stuff. 2. Suspension is all XJ up front and just different leaves out back. You could budget boost it easily. I agree, as long as it'll turn over, you'll be able to make something out of it. I also want you to buy it so I can live vicariously through you.
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Jul 3, 2010 14:39
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Is there any year of XJ's that have a fold down tail gate vs a lift gate? Like the early 90's 4 Runners? I'm going Jeep/Toyota shopping today for a friend who is looking and I wasn't sure if there was an XJ with a drop down tailgate.
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Jul 3, 2010 18:43
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I might be looking at an '05 Wrangler unlimited rubicon and am curious is there anything to look out for with more recent TJ/LJs? Did the later model year 4.0 liter I6's fix all the main seal and oil leak issues of years past?
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Jul 5, 2010 01:14
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Geared Hub posted:Is there any year of XJ's that have a fold down tail gate vs a lift gate? Like the early 90's 4 Runners? Nope, but you could probably manufacture that up real easy. You could do it sort of a CJ5/Wrangler hard top hybrid lift gate.
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Jul 5, 2010 02:41
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Slow is Fast posted:For your concerns: Ehh, traded some text messages from the owner. Its an '88. 1) I've got no real place to work on it 2) I'm not buying a renault version.... Unless, I can find badging to make it a Le' Jeep (don't tempt me) I feel I need something a little more modern to account for spare parts/rust/EFI magic. (On the other hand, there was a suprisingly rust-free comanche missing from my drive home today and a temp registration on a Toyota Sienna sitting in the usual parking spot...) I might have to cruise the local lots.....
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Jul 5, 2010 04:20
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mod sassinator posted:I might be looking at an '05 Wrangler unlimited rubicon and am curious is there anything to look out for with more recent TJ/LJs? Did the later model year 4.0 liter I6's fix all the main seal and oil leak issues of years past? I'd recommend checking the cam synchronizer to see if it's been replaced (see this thread over on jeepforum). If you test drive one, rev it up to around 4.5k RPM - when mine got that issue, it would go into a limp mode at around that RPM.
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Jul 5, 2010 04:24
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HELLO JEEP THREAD. This is my first visit, but I need your advice: I'm thinking of buying an '01 XJ I found on Craigslist. It's on a dealer's lot about an hour away from my home, so before I make the trip, I'm looking for some knowledgeable opinions. I know nothing about Jeeps but I've been reading a lot about them lately. I've never owned a Jeep or any SUV before. If I could afford it, I'd keep my current car and use the Jeep for fun, but it all depends on what I could get the Jeep for. Specs: dealer posted:Hard to find. You will be hard pressed to find a cleaner example of this Jeep. Well taken care of inside and out. They go forever!     Their price is pretty high so I'm trying to figure out what I'd offer. I'm guessing they gave the previous owner roughly $4000 on it as a trade. KBB says trade-in value is $3750 and this one seems to be in good shape. What would be a realistic offer, and what should I look for if I go to check it out? THANKS JEEP THREAD! DropShadow fucked around with this message at 22:53 on Jul 5, 2010 |
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Jul 5, 2010 22:49
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My loving rear lights! Two weeks we ran out to lunch and since we had to go different places, my girl drove separately. While we're driving she calls me to tell my my left brake light isn't working. So I run to Autozone to buy a bulb and it still doesn't work. Well then 2 days later the right side brake light stops working bu in this case when I turn on my driving lights the bulk lights up but it doesn't intensify when I hit the brakes. Now I had a trailer hitch installed by U-Haul a few months back and everything worked perfectly but it's my thinking that something they did caused a short. I took it over there and they tested everything and claimed nothing they did had gone wrong. All my fuses check out so is it possible the new wire harness caused a short somewhere?
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Jul 5, 2010 23:13
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Either a short or a bad earth. Try cleaning up all the connections first.
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Jul 5, 2010 23:29
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DropShadow posted:HELLO JEEP THREAD. Holy expensive. I paid $13.5k for my 00 XJ back in 2004 (and it had 30k miles on it). Now that one has some nice low mileage to it but that doesn't change the fact that it's 9 years old. Does it have service records? How long did it sit around for?
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Jul 6, 2010 15:02
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Even if it's immaculate, I wouldn't pay more than 5K for it. That dealer is smoking something.
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Jul 6, 2010 15:15
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fordham posted:Holy expensive. I paid $13.5k for my 00 XJ back in 2004 (and it had 30k miles on it). Now that one has some nice low mileage to it but that doesn't change the fact that it's 9 years old. Does it have service records? How long did it sit around for? The Craigslist ad was posted on June 24th, but I don't know if that was the first time it's been posted. I don't know anything about it other than the ad and the photos, but I'll try to get some more info on it this week. Just getting the guy to send me some photos was like pulling teeth. Philip J Fry posted:Even if it's immaculate, I wouldn't pay more than 5K for it. That dealer is smoking something. My best guess is that the dealer thinks they have a rarity on their hands and that they can get $10k for it. KBB says "excellent" condition is $6750, so if I could get them down to about $6k I'd consider it but I doubt they'll want to come down that much. What are the major things I should look for on a XJ of this vintage?
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Jul 6, 2010 17:01
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DropShadow posted:The Craigslist ad was posted on June 24th, but I don't know if that was the first time it's been posted. I don't know anything about it other than the ad and the photos, but I'll try to get some more info on it this week. Just getting the guy to send me some photos was like pulling teeth. Nah they got a nice condition suv that they probably paid $1500-2000 wholesale for and it's not costing them any money to ask for the sky for it. Talk them down or walk. I was helping a friend shop for 4 Runners and Jeep XJ's and Grand Cherokees, and most of the 10+ year old ones in great cosmetic condition on the lot were asking 50% over book value just because.. Well my guess is that the private party that is selling the same vehicles at book price are selling poo poo boxes generally because a excellent condition Jeep that isn't beat on will sell at book value pretty easily. I went to look at a book value Grand Cherokee at Rancho Palos Verdes along with a friend and wow. When we drove up, the Jeep was already running which tells me two things, it either has a problem starting, or it needs to be warmed up to hide an issue. So I turned it off and we checked out everything for rust, condition of frame and driveline. All the tires needed replacement, an alignment, replacement of a few suspension components as it looked like it never been aligned in 10 years. The Rear tailgate handle was broken, interior was in poor shape. Popped the hood and found dried off coolant everywhere. "Oh yeah the head gasket was just redone". Oh really? We tried to start the truck back up and it wouldn't. Dead battery. Guy boosted us, at this point we were like screw this jeep but we were curious. A/C worked fine, Transfer case worked fine, acceleration had issues, when you stomped on it you can feel it surging or missing, maybe related to electrical/spark or something else, low idle it was fine. Plus there was a front end clunk with steering [after looking at it for a minute with my friend steering I figured it was a bushing, u-joint or steering dampener. Whatever, wasn't wasting an more time on this. Guy was asking high book for it and we booked it alright... right to lunch. Unfortunately most of the private sale jeeps were like this, great starts for projects, since they were all California jeeps with no rust, but not at the price they were asking. THe good deals are usually sold in 1-2 days, leaving the crap. So I can see used car lots pricing legitimately excellent condition Jeeps for above book value but just keep shopping around.
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Jul 6, 2010 17:21
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My wife and I looked around for 97+ XJs for six months before we found a non-wrecked truck that was anywhere near book value. And we only got it for book because it had a shitload of miles on it and I think other prospective buyers were scared. The guy was initially asking pie in the sky money for it but I made an offer, he thought about it for a few days and we came to a sales price much closer to my offer than his asking price. Jeeps are just one of those vehicles that people are out of their minds on value. This applies in particular to Wranglers, but it rubs off on Cherokees by association. The same concept does not seem to apply to Grand Cherokees, probably because they suck (from a reliability/electronics perspective).
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Jul 6, 2010 18:34
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Geared Hub posted:Nah they got a nice condition suv that they probably paid $1500-2000 wholesale for and it's not costing them any money to ask for the sky for it. Talk them down or walk. That's my plan. I'll keep talking to the guy but if he doesn't want to come down enough, I'm not stuck on this particular Jeep. Just got an email from the salesman: quote:I ran the Carfax it was a 3 owner vehicle. It was originally a corporate lease. It all clean except a minor accident back in 2001. According to Carfax that is like a dented bumper, fender, ect. Here is a pic of the engine. He's going to fax the Carfax to me, so I'll post anything interesting from it. Thanks for the cell phone pic of the engine, guy!
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Jul 6, 2010 19:11
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PBCrunch posted:The same concept does not seem to apply to Grand Cherokees, probably because they suck (from a reliability/electronics perspective). What, electrically, is different on a low spec GC? The Limiteds had climate control problems etc, but I'm not aware of anything too bad on anything else.
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Jul 6, 2010 19:17
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DropShadow posted:My best guess is that the dealer thinks they have a rarity on their hands and that they can get $10k for it. KBB says "excellent" condition is $6750, so if I could get them down to about $6k I'd consider it but I doubt they'll want to come down that much. 6K is certainly reasonable but that would be my firm ceiling. The only gremlin that may creep up with the late 99-01's is the #0331 head castings which may or may not crack. I'd probably still buy it anyway (and get an #0630 from the junkyard to keep in the garage until I got bored). It typically comes down to cosmetics. All XJ's are pretty drat reliable mechanically. I got a steal on my '99 because of some minor dents and dings but the thing still runs like new. Philip J Fry fucked around with this message at 19:24 on Jul 6, 2010 |
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Jul 6, 2010 19:21
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DropShadow posted:Their price is pretty high so I'm trying to figure out what I'd offer. I'm guessing they gave the previous owner roughly $4000 on it as a trade. KBB says trade-in value is $3750 and this one seems to be in good shape. What would be a realistic offer, and what should I look for if I go to check it out? THANKS JEEP THREAD! I just bought an '01 Cherokee Sport and posted about it on the previous page. The used car dealer wanted nearly $9k for it with 127k miles and I talked them down to $5,500. I live in LA though, where car prices are automatically 30% higher than anywhere else in the country. So for an XJ with 61k miles I'd think $6k is perfectly reasonable.
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Jul 6, 2010 20:04
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Just got the Carfax and noticed something odd: So, it looks like it was damaged before it was registered for the first time. Here's the rest of the report as a PDF if anyone wants to take a look.
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Jul 6, 2010 20:17
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Heh, looks like the head already cracked and was replaced. Hopefully not with another 0331.
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Jul 6, 2010 20:19
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GodDAMNit.  Finally just took the loving Jeep in to the dealer to have them put the fuel pump ring back on using their special goddamn tool that you can't get anywhere else (since when I did it 3 times, it kept popping off again), and had them put the trailer hitch back on (which they did for free since they had the tank down anyway). Nobody can loving tell me how to get the rear fascia off the car, so I couldn't put the hitch back on myself. I fill the tank and no leaks. Thank God. It's still a little hard to start, but it's much improved, so I figured it might take time to get the fuel rail fully pressurized. This morning? Not only is it STILL hard to start, but it throws a CEL P0303. Misfire on Cylinder 3. After some research, this combination might be a bad fuel check valve meaning the gas is dumping back into the tank after it sits a while. Where's the check valve? IN THE GODDAMN FUEL PUMP.  I am beside myself, and I'm about ready to just loving sell / trade the motherfucker in on a different one. I fully believe that some machines are cursed, and I'm beginning to suspect that this one is. So I'm back to square loving one again. I have some other things to try - it also has a code for a stuck thermostat, and it hasn't had the TSB for the overheating #3 fuel injector done to it. Only problem is that those probably won't fix the hard cold start, but at this point, if I have to turn the key and wait 10 seconds for the loving fuel pump to pressurize, I'll call it a win. So much for $3000 Grand Cherokees. This is a lesson loving learned. Doctor Zero fucked around with this message at 20:45 on Jul 6, 2010 |
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Jul 6, 2010 20:43
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Philip J Fry posted:Heh, looks like the head already cracked and was replaced. Hopefully not with another 0331. Is this something you could tell easily by looking at it?
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Jul 6, 2010 20:43
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It should be stamped on the driver's side, right below the edge of the valve cover next to the oil cap. It can be tough to see under grease and grime though. Mine, for example (0630) 
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Jul 6, 2010 20:51
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DropShadow posted:Just got the Carfax and noticed something odd: Intercooler checked? Does that Cherokee come with a turbo from the factory? I have to assume that was either a typo or someone got confused.
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Jul 6, 2010 20:53
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DropShadow posted:HELLO JEEP THREAD. I just bought a '00 XJ last month, similar specs but a few more miles (100,000). Actually got it from a goon via this thread. Paid $3500 straight cash, could not be happier. Very well maintained, inside and out. Goon jeep is the best jeep.  .JPG) Click here for the full 1168x776 image.
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Jul 6, 2010 21:15
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dMastri posted:I wouldn't pay more than $6000 for that. And I wouldn't feel good at that price. Of course you can find them cheaper from private sellers, and occasionally you find a really good one that has been maintained well. But you also don't get it completely reconditioned as dealers have to do. You can't possibly compare the prices of a privately sold car and one from a dealer. That is why KBB asks if you want a private party quote or a dealer quote. It assumes that the vehicle has been brought as close to factory condition as possible, or "Excellent" on their rating scale. Also private parties sure as hell won't be selling you the car with a warranty either. Those are the perks of buying used cars from dealers at the cost of paying slightly more than from Joe Shmoe on CraigsList.
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Jul 6, 2010 21:33
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BoostCreep posted:Of course you can find them cheaper from private sellers, and occasionally you find a really good one that has been maintained well. But you also don't get it completely reconditioned as dealers have to do. You can't possibly compare the prices of a privately sold car and one from a dealer. That is why KBB asks if you want a private party quote or a dealer quote. It assumes that the vehicle has been brought as close to factory condition as possible, or "Excellent" on their rating scale. Also private parties sure as hell won't be selling you the car with a warranty either. Those are the perks of buying used cars from dealers at the cost of paying slightly more than from Joe Shmoe on CraigsList. You do realize that "reconditioned" just means washed, vacuumed, & inspected, right?
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Jul 6, 2010 21:56
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Doctor Zero posted:You do realize that "reconditioned" just means washed, vacuumed, & inspected, right? Well, no. In California it also means the car is made to pass SMOG, which is pretty important for a ten year old car. My Jeep for example failed SMOG when the dealer got it tested and had to be serviced before it could be sold. It has a shiny new cat now that will be good for another 100k miles. It also got brand new fluids front to back with maintenance records, two new wheel bearings, and a list of other minor fixes. And yes, it was also washed, vacuumed, and inspected.
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Jul 6, 2010 23:31
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GENTELMEN PREPARE TO CREAM YOU MANTIES!!! Yeah, I'm leaving that typo http://www.nc4x4.com/forums/showthread.php?t=91928 If you think it aint poo poo to click.  GODDAMN THIS FUCKER IS HAWT Tossed_Salad_Man fucked around with this message at 23:40 on Jul 6, 2010 |
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Jul 6, 2010 23:36
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BoostCreep posted:My Jeep for example failed SMOG when the dealer got it tested and had to be serviced before it could be sold. It has a shiny new cat now that will be good for another 100k miles. But what if that cat burned out fast, and the underlying problems that caused it to plug up early weren't addressed? I don't see how, even with smog testing as a bar, dealers wouldn't do the bare minimum at each possible step.
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Jul 6, 2010 23:39
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kimbo305 posted:But what if that cat burned out fast, and the underlying problems that caused it to plug up early weren't addressed? I don't see how, even with smog testing as a bar, dealers wouldn't do the bare minimum at each possible step. That is absolutely possible and a chance you risk with any used car. But at least the dealer is doing something while a private party seller wouldn't do anything at all.
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Jul 6, 2010 23:52
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Tossed_Salad_Man posted:GENTELMEN PREPARE TO CREAM YOU MANTIES!!! Manties creamed. That thing is sweet. And has had a LOT of ducats poured into it!
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Jul 7, 2010 00:54
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dMastri posted:Goon jeep is the best jeep. I think I forgot to tell you about the fog lights - the first (factory) set corroded out completely so I replaced them with the currently corroded ones that are on there. If you get another set they are easy to install - I reused the existing wiring with the replacements so the console switch operates them. It's a big star drive screwdriver to take em down I think. I cut the tops off the factory lights and used them to mount the new lights so they go right back up into the factory mounts under the car. Factory Mount + Factory Wiring = easy fog light replacement.
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Jul 7, 2010 04:08
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My poor 1989 Jeep is having issues, its overheating, throwing coolant out of the resevoir tank. Thermostat is fine, I think the radiator is fine (flushed it), water pump is moving water. Looks like I may have blown the headgasket
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Jul 7, 2010 06:06
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