|
 What kind of wood is the bigger bowl? I sure love the live edge bowl as well
|
#
?
Dec 22, 2011 06:01
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 2, 2024 08:06 |
|
|
That's some oak with spalted sapwood I found on the side of the road a couple years ago. I roughed it, the maple and the cherry bowl out last year. Got in a pinch for Christmas presents and finished them out. You can't see it super well but the oak went too oval on me to get back round and I was stuck sanding the everloving gently caress out of it. Another reason I want a big VS lathe where I can get the RPMs down in the double digits for those occasions. Edit: Decided to try a platter for the first time. Worked out pretty well and now I've managed to complete mostly all of my Christmas poo poo. HURRAY! Figured maple, Beal buffed.   
ChaoticSeven fucked around with this message at 20:42 on Dec 22, 2011 |
|
#
?
Dec 22, 2011 19:34
|
|
|
Beautiful! Do you ever reverse chuck and dish the bottoms a little? Helps keep balance as the wood moves.
|
|
#
?
Dec 22, 2011 23:47
|
|
|
Yeah, the bottom of all of these is dished slightly except the oak one. Just a process note, on the platter I turned a dovetail tenon on both sides so I could work on the profile front and back and go back and forth if needed. I think this worked out pretty great and I'll be doing it in the future. A couple more Christmas presents: Gift set for my Aunt. Maple, purpleheart. Tilt set and a french rolling pin.  Router bowl for my Grandmother. Walnut and Maple. I really despise making these things. So much drilling and routing. Really uses up your bits too. Pain in the dick to sand. I don't think I could ever make these to sell because it actually takes a lot of wood, time and wear and tear on stuff. If I do make anymore I'll probably scroll saw out the rough shapes before gluing the boards up. Should help a lot. 
|
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2011 01:21
|
|
|
Chaotic, what do you use to engrave your signature? Or do you have a pre-made deal you just heat up? Also, what did you use to make the gift cards? I think you said it was your sisters? I loved the wood shaving one! Very clever.
|
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2011 09:42
|
|
|
A Sharpie  My sister is a sales rep for an engraving machine company and she brought it down with her while she visits for a few weeks. It's pretty much a specialized CNC and can do glass, metal, plastic and wood engravings flat or in the round like on a pen or wine bottle. It also has a heat pen attachment that uses a specific temperature, pressure and speed of pass to go over plastic backed foil and imprint it on the surface of wood and plastic. Unfortunately it's a little out of my price range at $30,000 MSRP.
|
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2011 16:21
|
|
|
That platter is absolutely gorgeous. I love Love LOVE figured maple stuff.
|
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2011 18:44
|
|
|
Have you guys tried a vacuum chuck? I love the gently caress out of them for bowls & platters. My mentor had one that we'd use on his enormous oneway lathe. I never had problems with slippage, because it was covered in dense foam I never had it mark p my project. He gave me a less good one that I haven't gotten a proper vacuum for but will soon. Also... that is the first oak I've ever seen that I really liked.... perhaps just because it's just so overused on so many things. Blake- fucked around with this message at 21:05 on Dec 23, 2011 |
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2011 20:51
|
|
|
I made a couple of things for my 17 month old niece for Christmas - just finished wrapping them for her. This is a combination booster seat / rocking horse / desk. This was a HUGE pain in the rear end to build. My Mom bought one years ago at an Amish furniture shop and I had no pattern, just hers to copy. The profile was actually the easiest thing to make - the rest of it was a nightmare. The cross braces that make up the desk / seats / etc are all in dados, which I cut with the router. I cut the outside shape, built the interior structure separately (since most of it is tied together), and then tried to lay out the dados that way (since there were no flat reference points from which to measure from. A smarter way of doing it would have been laying them out before they were cut out of square stock I think. Either way it was a much larger project than I anticipated. I bet I put it together and took it apart 20 times at least trying to make everything go together. It turned out pretty good - there were a few mistakes that I did my best to hide (since once the sides were cut out I was pretty much committed to not remaking them). Here's some photos: Booster Seat Mode:  Rocking Horse Mode:  Desk Mode:  And of course, it was extremely difficult to wrap. I hope she's not afraid of it tomorrow (it's nearly as big as she is). I also made a frame for a photo of my Dad's combine for her (she absolutely loves the combine), but I didn't get a photo of that before I wrapped it. I'm working on a coffee grinder for one of my friends now - I'll post some photos once it's dry and assembled. Everything is made out of cherry. I'm particularly proud that this all came out of my "spare" wood pile of planed lumber and that I didn't have to plane any more rough lumber.
|
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2011 20:11
|
|
|
that 3 in 1 thingy is amazing!
|
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2011 21:22
|
|
|
Sometimes you will see those called a "Triple Babysitter". I've wanted to make some to sell, just haven't got around to it. Yours looks really good.
|
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2011 23:57
|
|
|
I've always wanted a large format CNC wood cutter and it would would make something like this a lot easier to make. I thought that might be sufficient motivation to start designing one, but I don't know how much profit you'd make on these considering the time spent sanding and assembling them. I saw you could buy a similar version from Lehman's hardware for about $240. Oh, and to further complicate the construction, for whatever reason my stock wasn't exactly 3/4 inches thick. I had to do all the dados in two passes because my 3/4 inch bit wasn't wide enough. I didn't find that out until after I had all the interior pieces cut. Also, gently caress this Rockler coffee grinder mechanism. The plan (which I only loosely followed anyway) calls for a 3/4 inch thick top. Except if you use a 3/4 inch thick top, the grinder shaft isn't long enough. There are also zero instructions for assembly of the mechanism and the bolts to attach it to the top are too short. Luckily I won't see my friend until later next week. I read the reviews on Rocker tonight and someone had posted a potential solution, but it requires a 2-1/8 Forstner bit, which I don't have. I think I'm just going to toss the rotary table on the Bridgeport and use an endmill instead. It's eggnog-thirty now, so that'll be a job for tomorrow.
|
|
#
?
Dec 25, 2011 02:58
|
|
|
Furniture is probably the least lucrative type of woodworking which is why there are so many small woodworking schools. People do it for love and then get tired of being broke. I built a small desk with highly figured walnut that I'm very proud of but very few have any real appreciation for the work or money that went into it. Or maybe it's less impressive than I think. 
|
|
#
?
Dec 25, 2011 05:51
|
|
|
wormil posted:Furniture is probably the least lucrative type of woodworking which is why there are so many small woodworking schools. People do it for love and then get tired of being broke. I built a small desk with highly figured walnut that I'm very proud of but very few have any real appreciation for the work or money that went into it. Or maybe it's less impressive than I think. I will only build furniture for myself or for those who help build it. When you try to factor in time on a project for a price it never turns out to be cheap.
|
|
#
?
Dec 25, 2011 20:58
|
|
|
Let's see your desk Also, let us discuss pen turning... my wife got me a bunch of blanks, kits, and a Mandrell for Christmas. I don't have a clue what the gently caress im doing when it comes to pens though :o Watched several you tube video's today.
|
|
#
?
Dec 26, 2011 04:00
|
|
|
Pen turning is fun, although it's easier to burn even more money because the kits can get expensive pretty quick. Also, do some research on the finish you choose before you go with it, a lot of them will wear in ways you might or might not expect.
|
|
#
?
Dec 26, 2011 04:07
|
|
|
Blake- posted:Let's see your desk Yeah I need to get a good picture of it. Unfortunately the only camera I have now is my phone but I'll do what I can.
|
|
#
?
Dec 26, 2011 06:12
|
|
|
I'm planning on adding building some built-in bookshelves around my hearth in the next few weeks. I've done some rough stuff around the house, like building basement shelving and stuff like that with 2x4s and plywood. I have no real experience doing "finer" woodworking, like making furniture or cabinets. I have some basic DIY-er tools: a decent hand drill and circular saw, a few hand saws that I haven't used at all, a small hand plane, etc. I am willing to buy more tools as necessary; I think I may need a hand-held jigsaw and some sort of sander. My plan is to build them out of hardwood, and keep the existing mantle. They will be a few inches shorter than the mantle, making the result slightly tiered. My reasoning for keeping the existing mantle is that it is a beautiful piece of wood, I don't want to replace it, and I don't think I could find/transport a single piece of wood that is long enough to go the full width of the room. My plan is to build the two bookshelves to be slightly narrower than the empty space on either side of the mantle, then true them up in-place, attach them the back wall and trim the left- and right-most sides where they meet the walls. I'm tentatively planning on using rabbit joints for the top shelf and dados for the middle. I think my goal is to end up with something like this, although stained instead of painted, and without all the trim around the fireplace itself. Here is a photo of the area I'm working with. There are free-standing bookcases where I plan to add the built-ins.  Here is a close-up of the wood used for the existing mantle.  I have a million questions, I will start with these and see where it takes me:
|
|
#
?
Dec 26, 2011 21:35
|
|
|
CorporatePunk posted:Will it be super obvious and look like poo poo if I on't use sweet gum? My advice would be to build the shelves from cabinet grade maple (or birch) plywood faced with maple strips then dye the wood to match your existing trim. You'll probably have to experiment a little with the colors but it's not horrible if it doesn't match exactly. Also, I posted some pics in the quick questions thread about a walnut stand I found along the road if anyone wants to look: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?action=showpost&postid=398977117
|
|
#
?
Dec 27, 2011 08:37
|
|
|
Blake- posted:Let's see your desk After you turn a few on the mandrel and get all the basics down, look into finding a dead center with a hardened tip and a hardened tip for your live center and start turning them between centers with the hardened tips in the bushings. This is a lot more accurate and less error prone than the mandrels and there is nothing to warp. There are also aftermarket bushings which I've bought that are much more accurate and machine to mate with the (60?) degree angles of the tips. Look into CA finishing, get some Micro Mesh and 320,400 and 600 wet dry paper. Buy or make a blank drilling vice for your drill press, and use some spray adhesive to stick some 120 grit sandpaper on a faceplate and use that to square everything up by using a drill chuck in your tailstock with a rod similarly sized as the interior of whatever brass tube you are using. Look at the PSI website, they sell a cutoff jig for the tablesaw/bandsaw that is cheap and very accurate once setup for sizing blanks. However, first cut the blanks oversized just in case the bit wanders (if usually does) on entry or you get some blowout (you usually do) on exit. Then you can trim a little on the entry size, use the jig on the other to get everything exact. Do all this and you can make some pens that stand out, because most people simply don't. Check out the IAP (International Association of Penturners, I know. I know). I know this is somewhat rambling and zips back and forth but that's pretty much all my process and I'm in a hurry bye
|
|
#
?
Dec 27, 2011 21:17
|
|
|
wormil posted:My advice would be to build the shelves from cabinet grade maple (or birch) plywood faced with maple strips then dye the wood to match your existing trim. You'll probably have to experiment a little with the colors but it's not horrible if it doesn't match exactly. Thanks wormil. Is cabinet-grade plywood better than the birch or maple plywood they sell at places like Home Depot or Lowes? Also, is it reasonable to do the bookshelves themselves from plywood and add a gum board on top to match the style of my mantle? I think I could probably find two dimensional gum boards somewhere online and cut them to fit. CorporatePunk fucked around with this message at 00:15 on Dec 28, 2011 |
|
#
?
Dec 27, 2011 23:47
|
|
|
ChaoticSeven posted:Awesome pen turning stuff I actually dont (yet own a drill press) I was planning to get a chuck for my tailstock ... seems most use DP but lathe method should work I assume. I do have a deadcenter and a live center with a decently pointy insert (came with lathe). Should I return the madrell? She also got me this true up thingy that is like a rod with a forstner bit at a true 90° angle so that should be easy enough has different sizes rods. Looking forward to having some time in front of my lathe to learn. What I REALLY need to get is a wolverine sharpening jig so I quit butchering my tools
|
|
#
?
Dec 28, 2011 04:42
|
|
|
CorporatePunk posted:Thanks wormil. Is cabinet-grade plywood better than the birch or maple plywood they sell at places like Home Depot or Lowes? Yes, cabinet grade has no voids and is often sold in different sheet sizes like 5x5 feet; but you can get by with the stuff from HD/Lowes. The most important difference is the veneer cut. Cheaper hardwood plywood is rotary cut meaning they peel the log. Stain grade plywood is flat cut so that it appears as boards glued on edge. http://www.woodgallery.com/veneercuts.html CorporatePunk posted:Also, is it reasonable to do the bookshelves themselves from plywood and add a gum board on top to match the style of my mantle? I think I could probably find two dimensional gum boards somewhere online and cut them to fit. If by two dimensional you mean veneer, then yes, definitely. Sweet Gum is notorious for shrinking and warping so anything thicker than veneer would tear itself apart if glued to plywood. Even if you use sweet gum you'll still have to stain to match your existing trim.
|
|
#
?
Dec 28, 2011 05:24
|
|
|
Blake- posted:I actually dont (yet own a drill press) I was planning to get a chuck for my tailstock ... seems most use DP but lathe method should work I assume. Yeah, you can drill them on the lathe. It's pretty hard to get the blank centered though in a bowl chuck. When I was out of state and only had my lathe I ordered a collet chuck to do it with. Turn the blank round between centers to about 5/8, put in the 5/8 collet and then drill with the tailstock. Very centered. The true up thing is a pen mill, I never used one. I hear they are bad about tear out in spalted and figured wood. I found with the cutoff jig and the sanding faceplate I've never needed one. Lot's use them though. Wolverine rocks by the way. P.S. I've found I can turn a pen from rough to finished with a roughing gouge. Unless you want to do those weird bumpy ones. I don't.
|
|
#
?
Dec 28, 2011 19:49
|
|
|
Yeah, I find I do just about all smooth convex work with the roughing gouge and nothing else. I should probably learn to use confidently use a skew, but I keep my roughing gouge nice and sharp and it works a treat. Those tap handles I posted recently were 99% roughing gouge. (I used a spindle gouge for the bevel on the top, that's it.) Literally my favorite tool on the lathe.
|
|
#
?
Dec 28, 2011 23:21
|
|
|
Lately I've found myself seriously contemplating taking out a loan for a Powermatic 3520B. With the oncoming collapse of society in the US, everyone will need really big wooden bowls and I'll become a land baron...Right?
|
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2011 18:58
|
|
|
Yes, I think you should certainly do that. Honestly you'd be doing yourself a disservice if you did not... what with the impending collapse and requirement for all to for bowls big enough to bathe in.
|
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2011 19:15
|
|
|
Why not a big Grizzly lathe? A quick glance at their Woodworking section shows their biggest Woodworking lathe at about $2800. It's three phase, so you'd need a phase convertor (~$200). It's also more powerful and can be run in reverse (can't tell if the Powermatic is or not). I seem to remember you've got a bunch of other Grizzly tools so you know what their quality is like. You're getting a machine made in Taiwan either way and Grizzly has pretty good service, so given the choice between the two, I'd probably take the Grizzly.
|
|
#
?
Dec 31, 2011 00:52
|
|
|
But the golddddddddd 
|
|
#
?
Dec 31, 2011 01:36
|
|
|
LordOfThePants posted:Why not a big Grizzly lathe? A quick glance at their Woodworking section shows their biggest Woodworking lathe at about $2800. It's three phase, so you'd need a phase convertor (~$200). While Grizzly has gotten good at the big 4 (jointer, planer, bandsaw and tablesaw) the last few years the lathes are still lacking, sadly. Quality of design and manufacture varies even among Grizzlys own line, in the same product category. If I were to get something other than the the 3520 if would probably be some other time tested import model. Like the big Jet or possibly the Nova with EVS. http://www.aawforum.org/vbforum/showthread.php?t=5987
|
|
#
?
Dec 31, 2011 03:27
|
|
|
Why not oneway? I learned to turn on a 24" oneway... that thing was so awesome.
|
|
#
?
Jan 1, 2012 06:08
|
|
|
Dunno, mostly because even the Powermatic is a reach for me if I want to get one any time soon. A Oneway is another step beyond that. I agree they are awesome. I love the look of them. Here's a mirror I made as a Christmas gift for my 9 year old peace sign obsessed cousin. Please ignore my ham handed attempts at photoshopping the saw dust and fingerprints out that I didn't see until the flash lit them up. Also, that is my Great Dane, Ava. 
|
|
#
?
Jan 2, 2012 03:42
|
|
|
Roughed out a few hackberry bowls this afternoon. Should look pretty interesting when finished in a few months. Really need to rough a bunch of different bowls so I don't have to play the waiting game in the future.
|
|
#
?
Jan 3, 2012 05:34
|
|
|
this question is probably too retarded to warrant an answer but... I just picked up a wooden kitchen cart thing from ikea. what's the best way to treat it so that I can put food on it and cut it from time to time? food-grade mineral oil? it's solid birch.
|
|
#
?
Jan 4, 2012 01:36
|
|
|
Guitarchitect posted:this question is probably too retarded to warrant an answer but... I just picked up a wooden kitchen cart thing from ikea. what's the best way to treat it so that I can put food on it and cut it from time to time? food-grade mineral oil? it's solid birch. It comes up from time to time with a lot of people making cutting boards as starter projects. Here's the Wood Whisperer page on the subject: http://thewoodwhisperer.com/cutting-board-finish/ Varnish is food safe once cured, even if it doesn't say food safe, but full curing can take 30 days or more depending on climate. The issue with varnish is that building up a film means it will look terrible and flake off when you start cutting. Marc's approach seems to be a diluted varnish that gets down into the grain, but doesn't build a film on the surface. I'll throw in my own questions since I'm here. I've got a vertical slab of maple? cedar? with a slight curve that I'd like to make into beautiful shiny bench like the one ChaoticSeven posted way, way back in this thread. Are there any tricks to getting bark off old wood? I've been going at it a little with a hammer and chisel with some success, and most of what I've read says to use a bark spud tool. How should I attach the legs to the bench, big mortise and tenons? I'm not even sure what I'll use for legs yet.
|
|
#
?
Jan 4, 2012 01:57
|
|
|
Cpt.Wacky posted:How should I attach the legs to the bench, big mortise and tenons? I'm not even sure what I'll use for legs yet. I'm a big fan of exposed mortise and tenoned legs with a trestle. http://theschoolofthetransferofenergy.com/2008/07/15/finished-walnut-bench/ Or with a stretcher. http://johnmcgaw.com/furn18.html
|
|
#
?
Jan 4, 2012 09:43
|
|
|
I signed up for a table saw class at a local woodcraft in march. I've had a lot of quiet time to read up on table saws when we're trying to get my 4 month old to go to sleep. I'm convinced if I ever buy a tablesaw it's going to be the sawstop contractors saw. Is there a huge difference between stamped wings and cast iron wings particularly with vibration? It's an extra $200 for the wings.
|
|
#
?
Jan 4, 2012 15:54
|
|
|
Boner Buffet posted:I signed up for a table saw class at a local woodcraft in march. I've had a lot of quiet time to read up on table saws when we're trying to get my 4 month old to go to sleep. I'm convinced if I ever buy a tablesaw it's going to be the sawstop contractors saw. Is there a huge difference between stamped wings and cast iron wings particularly with vibration? It's an extra $200 for the wings. Yes! The cast iron are well worth it. It adds a lot of weight to the machine and basically takes it from a very good contractor saw up to the level of most cabinet saws. Now, don't get me wrong, vibration isn't horrible either way but it's seriously a huge improvement and a much smoother and easier surface to slide wood on and even easier (imho) to clean and maintain.
|
|
#
?
Jan 4, 2012 20:53
|
|
|
I made this bowl out of a chunk of unknown... but quite hard & heavy wood. Any one want to hazard a guess as to what it might be? There is no finish besides paste wax & a little buffing. The outside shape was easy... however the inside was a different story entirely... the curves of the inside of a ball shaped bowl were very challenging to me, which is why it's so drat thick. http://imgur.com/a/ZvbBU
|
|
#
?
Jan 5, 2012 01:12
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 2, 2024 08:06 |
|
|
Has anyone used this: http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=686&filter=Polyethylene%20glycol to help dry wood? Now that I have my band saw I want to process some large logs I kept from when we took out a large maple tree. The problem is that this wood is, from what I've seen, REALLY prone to cracking/checking. As in, if I bring it inside and leave it for 3 days it will effectively be ruined. Would this solve my problems? (I know thicker pieces will take forever to air dry but I have the room to work with so no biggie.) Would anchorseal be a better choice? I've seen a few plans to make very basic home wood kilns, would either of these work well with them or would I be getting into a whole other beast? Anubis fucked around with this message at 01:57 on Jan 5, 2012 |
|
#
?
Jan 5, 2012 01:41
|
|