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FYI, kind of a bit late now, but if you're trying to wait for a piece of equipment to pricedrop, 8thstreet.com has a black friday blanket 18% off through the 25th(yeah, today) with few brand exceptions(well, fewer than some other site's giant list of every brand ever that I saw earlier). I got a jazz pick when pick sampling earlier and yeah, they're really precise, though I need to get used to it because I miss the string sometimes because it's so short and I have to get used to it. Are there larger sizes of these, or are they generally all the same size? (mine seems kinda small, also hard to find a selection around here)
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Nov 26, 2012 03:30
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| # ? Jun 8, 2024 18:24 |
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You can get some larger sized ones yeah. There's one that's like a full sized pick but jazz iii shaped, and there's a signature john petrucci one coming out that's like 15 percent larger.
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Nov 26, 2012 03:35
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duckfarts posted:FYI, kind of a bit late now, but if you're trying to wait for a piece of equipment to pricedrop, 8thstreet.com has a black friday blanket 18% off through the 25th(yeah, today) with few brand exceptions(well, fewer than some other site's giant list of every brand ever that I saw earlier). I don't know where to buy them but just looking at Dunlop's website I see a few types that are like the Jazz III but bigger. http://www.jimdunlop.com/product/Tortex-TIII http://www.jimdunlop.com/product/jazz-iii-xl http://www.jimdunlop.com/product/sharp Pretty much the only qualification is "has a sharp point" so if you have access to a grind wheel you could make some of your own with picks you already have. Also maybe a pair of wire cutters could work if you're really good at cutting things with wire cutters.
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Nov 26, 2012 03:39
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Wish I knew what the difference between red and black Jazz IIIs was supposed to be other than the feeling of them.
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Nov 26, 2012 03:51
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Reds are nylon, blacks are made of, what Dunlop calls, 'stiffo'; I don't know what 'stiffo' is, but I suspect it's just a slightly different nylon formula that is supposed to be slightly stiffer than normal nylon at the same thickness. I have some of the see-through Ultex ones--those are very stiff.
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Nov 26, 2012 04:33
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Yeah but I don't get the poooooooooint
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Nov 26, 2012 04:38
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Different responsiveness and playing characteristics? It's probably like moving up a gauge or two in pick thickness - it's not the extra fraction of a millimetre that you care about, it's the feel and tone of how it interacts with the strings
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Nov 26, 2012 04:55
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muike posted:Yeah but I don't get the poooooooooint
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Nov 26, 2012 05:40
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Francostein posted:I don't know where to buy them but just looking at Dunlop's website I see a few types that are like the Jazz III but bigger. Dunlop's Ultex Sharp picks are pretty great. It has the Jazz III style point, but is sized normally. They also last for ages because of the material. If you're used to tortex, get the next thinner thickness in ultex. Those puppies are stiff.
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Nov 26, 2012 05:59
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The red IIIs have a slightly thicker and more muffled tone. There's also those clear "Stubby" picks by Dunlop, same size and rigidity as the Jazz but thinner (1mm), they're brighter and snappier than the black III. The differences may seem subtle in a live situation, but they're clearly audible when you're recording. I've found that when I need just a little more attack/definition on a 335 with a jazzy tone on the neck p-u, the Stubby will do it without changing the overall tone. And for getting a slightly fuller/warmer sound from an SG's neck p-u, you'd take the red III.
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Nov 26, 2012 07:59
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Anyone have any advice on how to get a stuck string block (the little metal rectangle that holds the strings in the saddles) out of a rusted up floyd rose? I was given a busted to poo poo RG500 from my neighbor when he moved, it plays great and it looks loving rad (tons of wear on the fretboard finish and dinged to hell, like if Rory Gallagher was in Poison), but it's all rusted to poo poo so changing out the strings has been, uh, challenging. It's pretty well stuck in there, I've tried scrubbing bubbles, prying with a screwdriver, needle nose pliers, yelling at it, all to no avail. Any idea on something that might dissolve the rust or loosen that fucker out of there?
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Nov 27, 2012 00:54
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Can you get some pics? Naphtha is usually pretty good for this kind of thing.
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Nov 27, 2012 01:01
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PB blaster is good at breaking up rust too. But spray it into a metal or glass cup first and use a toothpick to apply drops strategically. It will wick it's way into the screw threads/holes.
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Nov 27, 2012 01:17
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I just looked into the guitar a little more as was taking it apart and I think I have somewhat of a nice find on my hands. It's a 1990 RG550, but I googled the pickup serial numbers and it turns out that the pickups were replaced early in its life with an early Seymour Duncan Custom and Duncan Distortion, both wound by the lady who is now head of the Duncan custom shop and are considered highly desirable by SD pickup dorks because her pickups supposedly sound "the best" according to tone voodoo conventional wisdom. While not really worth a ton, it's pretty cool for a free guitar. I'm definitely keeping this thing and am going to play it more often when the tremolo is done soaking in PB Blaster.
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Nov 27, 2012 07:11
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It's not just voodoo, they really will sound a bit different because those were scatterwound while all duncans outside of edge case custom shop jobbies are machine wound. Better is subjective though and SD dorks are still dorks.
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Nov 27, 2012 07:25
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I have a question about technique so I don't end up practising with some bad form that will make me hate myself later. I finally bought an amp (Just a Vox 10W practice amp) and have been playing around with it. The overdrive is really fun. I also see what people mean that gain can hide your mistakes. Anyway. I've been trying to play Today (Tab) and though I have the intro melody down easy I'm having trouble with those chords. Specifically, with 6688 (D#5/A# I think? Just the power chord with a bass note) I find myself using my thumb for the first 6 and just moving my two fingers (Ring and pinky cause my middle doesn't stretch that far) down to play 688 with my thumb and those two. I can move it up and down the board no problem. So really I have two questions. First, is using my thumb bad? I get the feeling it is. Second, should I try and stretch my middle finger or is ring+pinky acceptable? Thanks guys.
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Nov 27, 2012 09:29
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syntaxfunction posted:I have a question about technique so I don't end up practising with some bad form that will make me hate myself later.
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Nov 27, 2012 09:59
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Right that's what I figured but my fingers like to lock up when fretting more than one string and it makes it easier if I hit bass notes with my thumb. Although after actually looking at it it's obviously terrible form.
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Nov 27, 2012 10:13
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syntaxfunction posted:Right that's what I figured but my fingers like to lock up when fretting more than one string and it makes it easier if I hit bass notes with my thumb. Although after actually looking at it it's obviously terrible form.
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Nov 27, 2012 10:19
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syntaxfunction posted:Right that's what I figured but my fingers like to lock up when fretting more than one string and it makes it easier if I hit bass notes with my thumb. Although after actually looking at it it's obviously terrible form. Actually that'll come in useful for some Billy technique (like it's how he mutes the low string in Cherub Rock) but yeah you'll just need to work on barre chords. Barres are hard though, and Today always gave me an achey thumb muscle, so don't worry too much about that. Like duckfarts says, try rolling your finger, like so: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-uJP2rWbMig One thing to bear in mind with barring is that you're covering multiple strings with one finger, but you don't actually need to fret them all. So for the clean verses, your first finger covers all six strings but it only needs to put pressure on some of them, which is why the curve technique can be easier. For the heavy parts, when your first finger is fretting two notes you can do it however you like - personally I go for a lazy barre, laying my finger down put only actually putting pressure on the bottom two strings. That way you're just moving your other two fingers (like going from 6688xx to 688xxx) or sliding your entire hand along the neck (like from 688xxx to 81010xxx), for the whole rhythm part. It also means your first finger is flopped down and muting all the strings you don't want to hear, which is a good general playing technique anyway. But yeah, the heavy parts are where your hand gets a break 
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Nov 27, 2012 15:47
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Does anyone here have experience with Warmoth guitars?
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Nov 27, 2012 16:52
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Jason Sextro posted:Does anyone here have experience with Warmoth guitars? Warmoth Makes very high quality parts, but they don't actually "make" guitars. If someone is selling a "Warmoth" guitar it's a parts guitar they assembled. That being said, they're parts are top notch and very pricey. If you get a god deal on an all Warmoth parts guitar, i say go for, just expect to have to do some setup work on it.
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Nov 27, 2012 17:16
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HollisBrown posted:Warmoth Makes very high quality parts, but they don't actually "make" guitars. If someone is selling a Thanks - I have been looking at their website dreaming up ideal guitars pretty much since Friday last week and was mainly just wondering about the quality of their parts, since I figured I'd have to do my own setup work.
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Nov 27, 2012 17:30
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I'm looking to buy a classical/electric guitar. I've been playing steel-string for about 7 years, and I'm starting to get into flamenco and other fingerpicking styles. I really don't know anything about classical guitars, so I'm hoping I can get some advice on buying a nylon string here. Does anyone have a recommendation for a mid-line guitar? I'm not looking for anything fancy, its really just for practice. That said, I'm trying to stay away from 'beginner' or 'student' guitars. Edit: Someone is willing to sell me a Crafter C6 http://crafterusa.com/guitar/c6/ for $175. I haven't heard much about these guitars, but most retailers seem to be selling them for $280+. Anyone had any experience with the lower end Crafters? Baldbeard fucked around with this message at 05:22 on Nov 28, 2012 |
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Nov 28, 2012 04:59
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Just how bad would a $100 electric guitar be? I'm looking for something cheap to try out with Rocksmith, and one of the most available models locally is the AXL Headliner which to me looks like a generic Strat knockoff: I realize that it's probably deficient in a hundred different ways from the point of view of an experienced musician, but keep in mind that my only other experience is with playing air guitar and... the flute, so I just need something that would be good enough to see how much I'm really interested in this; I wouldn't want to find myself forcing to play/practice just because I sank three grand into the instrument or something. The AXL's warrantied for three years so if it shits itself after that long I wouldn't be too upset.
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Nov 28, 2012 15:25
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mobby_6kl posted:Just how bad would a $100 electric guitar be? I'm looking for something cheap to try out with Rocksmith, and one of the most available models locally is the AXL Headliner which to me looks like a generic Strat knockoff: I don't know anything about that particular guitar, but trying to learn how to play on a guitar that is unplayable is a bad idea. The biggest problems you are going to have with the extreme low end of the guitar market is lovely components and non-existant quality control. You may get one that is fine, or you may get a piece of garbage. Probably a piece of garbage. I would recommend finding a friend who knows how to play guitar and taking them to Guitar Center and having them play whatever the cheapest guitars they have there are until they find one that is acceptably playable. In a year when you are further along and know what you want you can buy something better.
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Nov 28, 2012 15:33
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mobby_6kl posted:Just how bad would a $100 electric guitar be? I'm looking for something cheap to try out with Rocksmith, and one of the most available models locally is the AXL Headliner which to me looks like a generic Strat knockoff: I don't know anything about electric guitar, but my first guitar (acoustic) that I received as a gift was a really bad guitar, something that cost around a 100$ like what you're looking at. I ended up never learning anything on it because it was hard and I just sucked. When the guitar broke after 2 years or so (neck snapped in half somehow) I bought a ~200$ yamaha fg700s and suddenly guitar wasn't so hard and I could see that I was progressing. I can't say for sure if the same is true for electric guitar, but my experience is that if you buy a 100$ guitar you won't enjoy playing and the thing will just gather dust. If you're ready to spend a little bit more (around 200$) you're going to get something that will make you super happy. The extra 100$ is more than worth it in my opinion. It's hard to understand at first (it was for me anyway), but the extra money from cheap to good entry level is not to get a guitar that "will sound better" but I'm a newbie and probably won't notice anyway. It's going to give you a guitar that you are capable of playing and capable of learning stuff on. And it's not "subtly better" it's really the difference from being able to play to not being able to play. I learned more in 1 month than in 2 years and 90% of that was the fact that the my new guitar was actually playable. It's been a year or so since I bought it and I'm really, really happy I did! I plan on buying an electric in the future and will probably end up with a Yamaha Pacifica because I trust yamaha when it comes to entry level guitars. KingColliwog fucked around with this message at 17:18 on Nov 28, 2012 |
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Nov 28, 2012 17:06
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I was wondering how "bad" a guitar could really be anyway, then I remembered that a friend has a cheap slightly smaller acoustic guitar that has some crazy action on it that makes it really hard to fret a string in the middle without touching surrounding strings. You could learn on it, with the emphasis being on the word "could".cornface posted:I would recommend finding a friend who knows how to play guitar and taking them to Guitar Center and having them play whatever the cheapest guitars they have there are until they find one that is acceptably playable. In a year when you are further along and know what you want you can buy something better.
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Nov 28, 2012 17:26
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duckfarts posted:I was wondering how "bad" a guitar could really be anyway, then I remembered that a friend has a cheap slightly smaller acoustic guitar that has some crazy action on it that makes it really hard to fret a string in the middle without touching surrounding strings. You could learn on it, with the emphasis being on the word "could". Yes, and if you don't have a friend who plays guitar, here are a few things to check. - Tune the guitar. - Fret each string at the 12th fret and make sure that it is the same note as the open string but one octave higher. - If you don't know any chords, just press down some random strings and strum it with a bit of gusto, then bend some of the strings. Is it still in tune? - Look down the neck. Is it roughly straight? A slight bow is normal. A twist or large bow is not. - Press down the strings at frets all over the guitar and make sure that when you pluck the string it makes a note instead of dull buzz. - Plug it in and make sure the pickups/switch/knobs all seem to work. - Make sure all the bits are securely attached. Tuners aren't wobbly, bridge isn't loose, etc.
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Nov 28, 2012 17:45
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Do you already own Rocksmith? If not, the deluxe version that comes with an Epi LP Jr is actually a pretty good deal for a starter guitar.
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Nov 28, 2012 18:16
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Hey thread, remember when I said I was gonna save up some money to buy a Schecter C-7 Custom? Yeah I still don't have 1200 bucks to buy one new but then then this magical thing happened: http://www.guitarcenter.com/In-Store-Used-USED-SCHECTER-C7-DIAMOND-SERIES-108195936-i2783123.gc I just spent 350 bucks, and it will be delivered in less than a week. Please tell me it was a good idea to buy this; for 300 dollars there was no way I could not take a chance.  In addition, I'd also like a list of things to check for it. I've owned guitars for a while now, but I have never really messed with the inside of them. Also just say so if you want me to post a fuckload of pictures when it arrives. e; just got on the phone with an employee at the store my guitar is sitting at; says he's gonna go find it in the stock and tell me about any flaws it has. I really tbh could care less if a part was just busted, since I can I get that repaired somewhat easily at a local shop and using the guitar luthier thread as a resource. I am so excited 
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Nov 28, 2012 20:06
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Where do you live that a c7 custom is 1200? You can get them for like 600 bucks. Anyway that's still a pretty good deal, and it's one of the older schecters with the hardtail bridge that I definitely prefer, at least.
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Nov 28, 2012 20:13
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muike posted:Where do you live that a c7 custom is 1200? You can get them for like 600 bucks. I was referencing what Scheter sells one new for.
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Nov 28, 2012 20:16
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NTT posted:I was referencing what Scheter sells one new for. http://www.musiciansfriend.com/guitars/schecter-guitar-research-c-7-custom-electric-guitar?src=3WWRWXGP The MRSP ain't even 1200. You didn't get a bad guitar or anything I was just wondering if you were from somewhere with really terrible prices.
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Nov 28, 2012 20:26
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muike posted:http://www.musiciansfriend.com/guitars/schecter-guitar-research-c-7-custom-electric-guitar?src=3WWRWXGP That's really bizarre. http://www.schecterguitars.com/Products/Guitar/C-7-Custom.aspx Of course this is the dealer price, which is basically the highest possible price; I bet that 600-700 is much more in line with other shops  In retrospect it probably looks pretty wierd to be looking at a brand spanking new one, and then just jump on a used one with complete disregard for the inbetween prices at 6-700. My reasoning was something along the lines of "yeah I could get it for cheaper, but I don't have the money for a cheaper one anyway so I might as well just save up for the best model." e; Oh! No, I meant 1200 after taxes. Obviously it's 1069, but realistically it's another 100 some odd bucks that have to be spent for shipping and tax. its curtains for Kevin fucked around with this message at 20:37 on Nov 28, 2012 |
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Nov 28, 2012 20:33
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Ah that's the MSRP, NO one ever pays MSRP. Street price is always way lower than that, sometimes as low as 50 percent less.
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Nov 28, 2012 20:42
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Talked to the employee, he says that one of the pickup rings is broken and needs to be replaced, but that's basically it, which is pretty much not only exactly what I expected, but is the best possible good news since that's not hard or expensive to repair. exciteddddddddd 
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Nov 28, 2012 20:46
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Thanks everyone, this is exactly the kind of feedback I've was hoping for. I could do about $200 if there's a significant step up, and it seems that there is. I'll try to find someone to go check out the guitars with me but the only candidate that comes to mind is a former coworker and I'm not sure if I'll manage to track him down now. If not, there are a few models from brands that I know in the $200 range, like the Ibanez GRX 20/40, Yamaha EG 112U, Epiphone Lp Special II EB, and Washburn RX10. Would these be generally a safe buy online or should I still go and molest them as per cornface's suggestions? I don't have Rocksmith yet, but the guitar bundle isn't available anywhere locally and international shipping would surely make it too expensive.
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Nov 28, 2012 21:55
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It is always better to go handle them, but any of the stuff from one of the major brands is probably going to be okay for learning on. It is the mystery brand stuff you really need to worry about. You might also see if any of the stores near you have any used stuff to look at unless you just don't feel like messing with it.
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Nov 28, 2012 22:00
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| # ? Jun 8, 2024 18:24 |
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mobby_6kl posted:Just how bad would a $100 electric guitar be? I'm looking for something cheap to try out with Rocksmith, and one of the most available models locally is the AXL Headliner which to me looks like a generic Strat knockoff: If you're gonna go cheap then try to go used squier, yamaha, or a dan electro. quote:I plan on buying an electric in the future and will probably end up with a Yamaha Pacifica because I trust yamaha when it comes to entry level guitars. Yamaha make excellent instruments. I had a really cheap bass of theirs for back up and it actually got used fairly often. Similarly... A buddy of mine gigs fairly often and occasionally takes out his Squier J in lieu of his American Warwick. I actually prefer the Squier's neck. Zuhzuhzombie!! fucked around with this message at 00:49 on Dec 1, 2012 |
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Dec 1, 2012 00:45
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