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I just bought an Open Box discount of this from Microcenter: http://www.microcenter.com/product/432552/3D_X_Dual_Extruder_Printer I talked them down to getting the whole thing for $520, and it is an identical rebrand of a FlashForge Dual Extruder model. They were also selling new 1kg spools of ABS for $15 each so I nabbed one, seems very reasonable. Did I do good? This is my first 3D printer and within 30 minutes of plugging it in, I had it printing legos well enough to click in to each other! The one problem, and I think the reason it was returned to microcenter the first time around, is that the secondary head is clogged. I preheated the head and unscrewed it with an adjustable wrench but the filament still doesn't feed through the rest of it and makes a clicking noise. I'll take a look at opening the entire extruder assembly in the morning. Pretty psyched though, especially when I found out this can print dissolvable filament and ABS together so I can create supports for gaps then melt them away.
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Jan 4, 2015 08:04
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That's pretty kickass. Didn't know microcenter had printers in-store. For some reason I still think of them as an online-only phenomenon that "real people" don't understand. I think I'm figuring this Rostock thing out, too. My layer adhesion problems are going away now that I'm following the labels for printing temperature on the rolls of filament  . 220 to 260 seems to imply that it'll print a lot better the closer I get to 260, and 235 isn't hot enough, which is true. Newest print at 240 is doing a lot better. Now I'm just tweaking the slicing settings to make sure bridges and top layers meet the edges, as I've developed a little problem with top flat parts not "meeting" the perimeter.Printing parts for my E3D v6 hotend mount now. So excited  The newest version of mattercontrol's slicer has much better tool pathing, too. Tends to go around parts instead of cutting across, and you can set individual retract rates and distances. PROTIP: don't use the version of MC that seemeCNC has on their website: it's old and is specifically gimped for the Rostock MAX.
Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 10:36 on Jan 4, 2015 |
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Jan 4, 2015 10:33
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Zero VGS posted:I just bought an Open Box discount of this from Microcenter: http://www.microcenter.com/product/432552/3D_X_Dual_Extruder_Printer Have a look at the sailfish firmware. If that's a replicator dual clone its worth considering.
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Jan 4, 2015 16:36
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Has the new 12" Prusa i3v from Makerfarm been around long enough for anybody to comment on the frame being overly flexy? I'm tempted by the extra build volume, even though it would be my first printer. I was pretty sold on the 10" until I saw this new larger size.
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Jan 4, 2015 20:40
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Zero VGS posted:I just bought an Open Box discount of this from Microcenter: http://www.microcenter.com/product/432552/3D_X_Dual_Extruder_Printer Pull the extruder off and give the toothed gear a good cleaning with a toothbrush and check the heat break for left covers 
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Jan 4, 2015 23:12
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Update, I easily opened up the second extruder and removed the bits of plastic clogging the thing. The only clog left is the brass nozzle which I unscrewed from the machine. I'm soaking it in acetone right now, I heard that should work if the guy used ABS. I'm gonna see if I can pick up a handful of replacement nozzles on eBay so I won't have any downtime if it happens again.Rapulum_Dei posted:Have a look at the sailfish firmware. If that's a replicator dual clone its worth considering. Yeah, it is indeed a rebadged "Flashforge Creator X": http://www.flashforge-usa.com/shop/3d-printers/creator-x-dual-extruder.html I'll check out the sailfish firmware, I assume I can flash it back and forth between that and stock if I have any regrets? One other question, is HIPS filament still the best bet for dissolvable support structures when the main print is ABS?
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Jan 4, 2015 23:46
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Zero VGS posted:One other question, is HIPS filament still the best bet for dissolvable support structures when the main print is ABS? Yep. And even if you don't plan on dissolving, HIPS is awesome for supports because it snaps off with minimal force, compared to if you used ABS. Only trouble I had was that it wouldn't adhere as well to bare kapton as ABS does. I had to use some purple glue stick to make it tacky enough.
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Jan 5, 2015 00:11
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Purple glue stick is love. Purple glue stick is life.
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Jan 5, 2015 00:41
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Okay, I did unclog that second nozzle, it soaked in acetone for 4 hours then I jammed a few Q-Tips into the wider end to get all the gunk out, and finally unclogged the super small part with a thin hard piece of extruded ABS I got from the other nozzle. Thanks again for the Sailfish firmware, I successfully flashed it (it's hard/scary because you have to hit the reset button on the board as you click "upload firmware" on the PC, with super strict timing). Sailfish heats up both extruders and the build plate all at the same time which saves 10 minutes to start a new build, and I'm successfully using "ditto printing" to print small stuff like lego blocks two at a time with simultaneous mirrored extruders so that's a big time saver as well. Oddly, build quality went down quite a bit with the new firmware but that might just be related to print speed or the new Replicator software I have to use, so I'll figure that part out.
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Jan 5, 2015 05:19
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Oh yeah, also very interesting thing worth mentioning is that Microcenter sells protection plans for all the 3D printers (they apply the "PC plan" to this and will honor it); they said I could get one for this for $140 for 3 years since my printer was in the $500-600 price bracket. Typically this is a huge ripoff on things you're not expecting to break, but I did get their accidental damage plan a while back when I was buying a laptop for kids at a mental hospital. Sure enough after a year one of the kids accidentally(?) broke the screen and when I brought it in, Microcenter just cut me a store credit for the full $300 I paid for the laptop. I wound up being able to buy a better one for less and pocket the difference. So yeah, I passed on that plan for now since this particular model is so modular and I'm handy, but with $500-1000 range 3D printers I'd be more surprised if most make it three years rather than failing. They specifically cover all wear and tear in the fine print, so you could run one of these at commercial levels and be covered.
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Jan 5, 2015 05:52
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Zero VGS posted:Okay, I did unclog that second nozzle, it soaked in acetone for 4 hours then I jammed a few Q-Tips into the wider end to get all the gunk out, and finally unclogged the super small part with a thin hard piece of extruded ABS I got from the other nozzle. I've found you generally want the extruder(s) to reach temperature last, as they can dribble when left idle at temp, then you have to have enough skirt otherwise you end up with no plastic extruded for the first layer.
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Jan 5, 2015 12:08
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Zero VGS posted:Oddly, build quality went down quite a bit with the new firmware but that might just be related to print speed or the new Replicator software I have to use, so I'll figure that part out. You don't have to use RepG, though the latest makerbot desktop software does cause problems. However the last working makerware software has been saved. You might want to check out ProfTweak which let's to specify a whole load of options in makerware like filament diameter (it's rarely exactly 1.75) As an aside, for anyone from the UK, I have found that the LIDL brand extreme hold hairspray works as we'll if not better than the expensive brands. OS X 10.7+ http://s3.amazonaws.com/downloads.makerbot.com/makerware/MakerWare Bundle of Awesome 2.4.1.35.dmg OS X 10.6 http://s3.amazonaws.com/downloads.makerbot.com/makerware/MakerWare Bundle of Awesome 2.4.1.24_10.6.dmg Windows XP http://s3.amazonaws.com/downloads.makerbot.com/makerware/MakerWare_Bundle_of_Awesome_2.2.2.89_BETA_Install.exe Windows 7/8 x64 http://s3.amazonaws.com/downloads.makerbot.com/makerware/MakerWare_Bundle_of_Awesome_2.4.1.24_x64.exe Windows 7/8 x86 http://s3.amazonaws.com/downloads.makerbot.com/makerware/MakerWare_Bundle_of_Awesome_2.4.1.27_x86.exe Windows 8.1 x64 http://s3.amazonaws.com/downloads.makerbot.com/makerware/MakerWare_Bundle_of_Awesome_2.4.1.62_x64_WIN81.exe Windows 8.1 x86 http://s3.amazonaws.com/downloads.makerbot.com/makerware/MakerWare_Bundle_of_Awesome_2.4.1.43_x86_WIN81.exe
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Jan 6, 2015 00:25
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Rapulum_Dei posted:You don't have to use RepG, though the latest makerbot desktop software does cause problems. However the last working makerware software has been saved. You might want to check out ProfTweak which let's to specify a whole load of options in makerware like filament diameter (it's rarely exactly 1.75) I tried converting a .STL file with Slic3r today, the resulting SD card file wound up positioning the extruders way beyond the build plate, completely disregarded preheat settings and tried to run cold, and accelerated fast enough to tear the machine apart. I thought the machine was permanently acting like that when I went back to RepG, until I found out that RepG was simply auto-loading Slic3r's old gcode files that were still in the STL folder. RepG (or I guess technically it's built-in slicer Skeinforge) does do a nice job with making those rafts on the build plate, they peel away nice from the bottom of pieces. It is strange though that it makes those rafts on all pieces by default, yet will attempt to print 90+ degree overhangs when there's no chance of that happening without supports. If I could make it auto-gen supports for overhangs and go back to it's pre-firmware quality levels I think it'd be perfect. That or find another slicer that doesn't explode my machine. Zero VGS fucked around with this message at 05:12 on Jan 6, 2015 |
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Jan 6, 2015 05:10
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Mattercontrol and cura are both awesome. I also ponied up (cough) for Simplify3D, and it seems to have a poo poo ton of options, including loading to sd card, and changing temperature and even layer thickness at specified points automatically mid-print. Also lets you place support manually along with automated supports. Can't really recommend it without a trial, though.
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Jan 6, 2015 10:24
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Tip: From the LCD panel in the menus there's a GCode Temperature override option. If this is on then the printer uses the preheat settings as the actual printing temps and ignores anything in software. You can also change the temp as the print is ongoing from the LCD. I never use rafts and I think most people don't recommend them. Printing on glass doesn't need it. I've not used slic3r so can't help you with that. My workflow if I'm making something from scratch is Autodesk Fusion 360 exported to Meshmixer to add any supports exported to Makerware for printing. All these are free and work fine for me. YMMV. Just for reference I print PLA at 195 with 50 bed, 70 print 150 move speed filament size 1.82 and 1.78. You can tune your filament size by printing the 20mm calibration cube at 100% infill at different filament sizes, if your filament size is too small it'll over extrude and the cube will splodge out as it gets higher.
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Jan 6, 2015 10:33
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I've found that a thin (three layer) raft helps my ABS prints enormously, but I haven't printed with pla yet. I figure, if ABS is working, why switch to something that melts at a lower temp? I live in Phoenix. PLA from matterhackers is the same price on average as ABS.
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Jan 6, 2015 10:49
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I made a thing! Much better quality than I would have hoped for with my 1st print. (0.25mm layer height)) 2nd print was the PEEK fan shroud that you have to print for the Rostock and I increased the layer height to 0.5mm and it was fine. I then tried a couple of more simple things with 0.25mm layer height and it became clear that I still need to lower the 0 position as it's struggling to lay down the first layer. Decided to try a raft as I didn't have time to mess around with the endstops and it worked great...except when I closed the laptop that the printer was connected to, the printer stopped. I thought it sent the whole job to the printer, but apparently not? Anyway, still stoked that it worked so well the first time around and are showing all my colleagues my silly little box.
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Jan 6, 2015 18:52
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If you're gonna test-print a small box, might as well make it the 2x2 lego: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:591 It is very good for testing how accurate things are: tolerances, shrinking of the bottom layers, and it is easy to compare with previous ones to see all the differences. With closing the laptop, yeah it sends each command one at a time in realtime so you can't let the laptop sleep. ReplicatorG actually warned me that slight lag on the PC can cause issues so it is always best to use the SD card.
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Jan 6, 2015 19:05
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I recommend getting a Raspberry Pi to dedicate to the printer and installing Octoprint. No worries about your laptop turning off in the middle of a print, you don't need to use the SD card (although you still can through Octoprint), and you get a snazzy web interface.
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Jan 6, 2015 19:23
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Oh poo poo, looks like it's back to Microcenter for a Raspberry Pi. Having Wifi with a webcam view of the printer means I can run it in the storage closet at work where no one will gawk at it and I'll still know when it finishes/fucks up.Geirskogul posted:I've found that a thin (three layer) raft helps my ABS prints enormously, but I haven't printed with pla yet. I figure, if ABS is working, why switch to something that melts at a lower temp? I live in Phoenix. PLA from matterhackers is the same price on average as ABS. Here's a some decent comparisons on ABS vs PLA http://3dfizzr.wordpress.com/2013/07/15/3d-printing-plastics-pla-vs-abs-in-practice/ http://www.protoparadigm.com/news-updates/the-difference-between-abs-and-pla-for-3d-printing/ Main thing is that PLA has a higher rigidity, though it is more likely to crack if bent too far. Thin ABS can be somewhat flexible, but in a few use cases like the bike hanging clips I'm trying to print, the extra give of ABS can throw off-spec. So they both can be ideal in different use cases. To me it is similar to the difference between acryllic (Plexiglass) and polycarbonate (Lexan). Acrylic is more optically clear/transparent naturally, and has less flex, but will crack/shatter if pushed too far. Polycarbonate is near-indestructible and will become permanently bent before ever cracking, but is easier to scratch and flexier. So I treat PLA and ABS like those, respectively. Edit: Also, Phoenix or no Phoenix, I don't think heat is a consideration unless you're printing something for a car dashboard. Zero VGS fucked around with this message at 21:20 on Jan 6, 2015 |
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Jan 6, 2015 21:18
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Zero VGS posted:
I spent a few hours last night making a high center third brake light housing for my VW beetle. First time in Solidworks. Of course, thingiverse fucks it up. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:623370 So, yeah. A car is sometimes a possiblity, so I'll stick to ABS for those. I do have a roll of PLA I can use for other things, too.
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Jan 6, 2015 21:44
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gently caress, turns out MakerBot Replicator and its clones are the only printers that won't work with OctoPrint, and people still haven't figured it out in over a year: https://github.com/foosel/OctoPrint/issues/332 Since I'm running it at work in a supply closet where we keep our laptops, maybe I'll just plug it into a laptop, point the laptop's camera at it, and remote into that...
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Jan 6, 2015 23:56
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Well, if you care about open source and/or interoperability, then don't buy from companies that poo poo on it and give back nothing.
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Jan 7, 2015 00:26
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Well the replicator 1 spawned a whole set of printers like the flashforge. Not really flashforges fault that makerbot turned to poo poo.
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Jan 7, 2015 02:01
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Yeah, I'm not blaming Flashforge, I'm just saying drat, that's not going to work. Embedding a Raspberry Pi with webcam and Wi-Fi would have been nifty, but getting a $100 used Win7 laptop to dedicate to it will give me those features and more, at about the same price.
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Jan 7, 2015 07:19
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Zero VGS posted:gently caress, turns out MakerBot Replicator and its clones are the only printers that won't work with OctoPrint, and people still haven't figured it out in over a year: https://github.com/foosel/OctoPrint/issues/332 Astroprint supports makerware and sailfish gcode - https://astroprint.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/categories/200170999-Creating-your-own-AstroBox-Raspberry-Pi-and-pcDuino It's like octoprint, but with free cloud slicing and a web interface that links into their web service.
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Jan 7, 2015 10:55
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It's a hundred and fifty dollars. 
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Jan 7, 2015 12:43
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Zero VGS posted:gently caress, turns out MakerBot Replicator and its clones are the only printers that won't work with OctoPrint, and people still haven't figured it out in over a year: https://github.com/foosel/OctoPrint/issues/332
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Jan 7, 2015 13:12
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Geirskogul posted:It's a hundred and fifty dollars. Their preconfigured raspi in a custom case with wifi dongle and camera costs $150. The image is open source and you should be able to do it yourself for less than half that.
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Jan 7, 2015 13:54
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Parts Kit posted:How do you plan on stopping it if something goes wrong? Remotely? This is at work, I'm running the printer in a storage closet that has thick walls and weather stripping, so other employees don't have to hear/smell the machine in operation. If I see something mess up on cam I'll just enter the room to stop the build. Think of it like Steam In-Home [Plastic] Streaming.
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Jan 7, 2015 14:25
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Zero VGS posted:This is at work, I'm running the printer in a storage closet that has thick walls and weather stripping, so other employees don't have to hear/smell the machine in operation. If I see something mess up on cam I'll just enter the room to stop the build. Still looking at 3d printers though for now the Shapeoko is dominating my 3d poo poo time. 
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Jan 7, 2015 16:39
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I'm having some issues with my printrbot simple metal right now. I'm not sure whats causing it, but every so many layers at a fairly regular interval, it seems that the layer under extrudes. This is casing some layers that look weak and have holes occasionally in them. Any idea where to start?
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Jan 8, 2015 00:16
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w00tmonger posted:I'm having some issues with my printrbot simple metal right now. Printrbot uses SAE ACME screws which means the conversion to metric layer heights usually falls into microstepping territory and sometimes even rounding errors. In lieu of having a perfectly tuned driver and motor, you can sidestep this issue entirely by using layer heights divisible by whole steps (instead of microsteps). For the 16tpi screw that ends up being 7.9375 microns per step (on a 1.8 degree 200 step motor) That would give you some compatible layer heights in mm of... .0635 .09525 .127 .15875 .1905 .22225 .254 .28575 .3175 .34925 .381 etc... This avoids both the possible skipped microsteps & rounding errors from imperial/metric conversion. Try one of those heights and see if the symptom persists. The alternative to getting fiddly with exact layer heights is to switch out to a metric screw with 1 or 2 mm thread pitch to get even 5 or 10 micron whole steps. Nill fucked around with this message at 01:25 on Jan 8, 2015 |
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Jan 8, 2015 01:23
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Parts Kit posted:Ah. I have a similar noise situation except my CNC machine has been located in my detached garage to avoid disturbing room mates. So I'm curious if there is a good way to monitor and send wireless "holy poo poo turn off" signals since said garage is currently cold as gently caress and in the summer will be hot as gently caress, though I should probably just suck it up. What I wound up doing was getting the nastiest i3 laptop I had lying around and putting Team Viewer 10 (free for personal use) on it. I can control the printer over USB, and I can angle the laptop's webcam at the build. You can bring up the screen and webcam at any remote PC or phone. Any 3D printing software should let you stop the build if it fucks up.
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Jan 8, 2015 01:37
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And for you types with an arduino with octoprint etc, making a power strip "emergency gently caress poo poo shutoff" relay triggered by a program on the arduino would be dead-easy. Either doing something like this, or just buying one of these would also work. In other news, I solved my bowden-tube-retract-backlash issues. Sorry for the quick, cellphone quality:  My fork spade connectors have a little dimple in them, too, so they click on there. 3M or something; I had them lying around since my car stereo install and it looked like they would fit, and they did perfectly. No more backlash. Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 01:51 on Jan 8, 2015 |
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Jan 8, 2015 01:44
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So, I've had my printer operational for about 36 hours and I'm already busy upgrading... First step is a PEI build plate, next up is (probably) an enclosure and then a E3D v6 hotend. Debating getting a 24v hotbed, as the heating time on mine is painfully slow...although with the PEI, I should be able to reduce the bed temp to ~75 degree for ABS. Happy with it, though. Still trying to figure out the ideal Z height, but it's getting there.
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Jan 8, 2015 02:00
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I printed quite a few things over the past week (running nearly 24/7), then finally held off and printed the mount for the E3DV6. I should have printed it first and forgotten the rest holy poo poo it is so much better than the stock hotend, and the stock hotend isn't all that bad.
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Jan 8, 2015 02:11
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You can also use an M4 nut to secure the bowden tube
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Jan 8, 2015 02:27
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Seems like it would damage the tube that goes inside the e3d, and I don't see how it would stop the bowden connector from moving.
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Jan 8, 2015 02:59
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Eh not really. PTFE is pretty resiliant. You might scour it a bit, but internally it'll be fine. It's a really common method for securing bowden tubes: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:461809 i've seen it in a bunch of other designs as well.
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Jan 8, 2015 04:21
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