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Steve French
Sep 8, 2003

RIP Paul Walker posted:

Holy gently caress do not buy a rust-belt SUV and ship it to where cars aren’t rusty. That’s a world of pain.

A good callout, but I'm not worried about it, because there's additional context I didn't share. It's in Wisconsin now, but the vast majority of time and mileage was spent in Nevada and only more recently was moved to Wisconsin where it lived in an airplane hangar so the owner (who still lived in Nevada) could use it when she visited a few weeks a year. I had a PPI done, the shop sent me a lot of photos, it's pretty rust free.

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Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Hadlock posted:

West coast all the way to Mexico, to the Louisiana border really

There's like 80 million people in the US that would consider visible rust on a 15 year old car unacceptable, it's not an uncommon position to hold

Yet it is an entirely unreasonable and impossible standard for the bulk of the world that doesn't live in a desert or desert-adjacent.

How that water situation working out for those 80 mil people again? Surely it is the rest of us who have wrong and unreasonable expectations.

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Yes rusty cars vs drinking water is the hill I'll die on today sure why not

If you can somehow ignore Texas politics they have a pretty good mix of climate and water supply, someone a hundred years ago converted an enormous amount of land into water reservoirs, and the aquifers are recharging at a mostly sustainable rate

Arkansas and Oklahoma can get frosty for a week in the winter but pretty sustainable. Oklahoma doesn't have licensed pubic school teachers anymore so that might be a problem for some

The largest California cities have senior water rights. Short of water riots it's virtually impossible for San Francisco to run out of water but they're not especially large

KakerMix
Apr 8, 2004

8.2 M.P.G.
:byetankie:

Hadlock posted:

Yes rusty cars vs drinking water is the hill I'll die on today sure why not

If you can somehow ignore Texas politics they have a pretty good mix of climate and water supply, someone a hundred years ago converted an enormous amount of land into water reservoirs, and the aquifers are recharging at a mostly sustainable rate

Arkansas and Oklahoma can get frosty for a week in the winter but pretty sustainable. Oklahoma doesn't have licensed pubic school teachers anymore so that might be a problem for some

The largest California cities have senior water rights. Short of water riots it's virtually impossible for San Francisco to run out of water but they're not especially large

Wait so because of water rights you think they won't run out of water? That's not how reality works lmao

luminalflux
May 27, 2005



Hadlock should go read Cadillac Desert (really everyone should) and then never post about how water rights will solve dry reservoirs

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!
My smug assed 13 year old Corolla has a bit of rust underneath, none on the body, I mean of course the door panels,, hood etc. And has spent it's entire existence within 15 minutes of one great lake, an hour of another, and about an hour and a half to two hours from a third. Don't know how we compare to other jurisdictions but we salt the gently caress out of our roads, and use brine on them bitches too. Never bothered rust proofing the thing until the last 6-7 years or so. Just kept that thing clean in the winter. Could probably get another 13 years out of it.


Oh, and keep all y'all's hands off my fresh water.

trilobite terror
Oct 20, 2007
BUT MY LIVELIHOOD DEPENDS ON THE FORUMS!

Ambassadorofsodomy posted:

My smug assed 13 year old Corolla has a bit of rust underneath, none on the body, I mean of course the door panels,, hood etc. And has spent it's entire existence within 15 minutes of one great lake, an hour of another, and about an hour and a half to two hours from a third. Don't know how we compare to other jurisdictions but we salt the gently caress out of our roads, and use brine on them bitches too. Never bothered rust proofing the thing until the last 6-7 years or so. Just kept that thing clean in the winter. Could probably get another 13 years out of it.


Oh, and keep all y'all's hands off my fresh water.

buff out that surface rust and spot paint the sucker. Can’t look worse than a rusty car

Inner Light
Jan 2, 2020



Ambassadorofsodomy posted:

My smug assed 13 year old Corolla has a bit of rust underneath, none on the body, I mean of course the door panels,, hood etc. And has spent it's entire existence within 15 minutes of one great lake, an hour of another, and about an hour and a half to two hours from a third. Don't know how we compare to other jurisdictions but we salt the gently caress out of our roads, and use brine on them bitches too. Never bothered rust proofing the thing until the last 6-7 years or so. Just kept that thing clean in the winter. Could probably get another 13 years out of it.


Oh, and keep all y'all's hands off my fresh water.

How have you rust proofed your Corolla in the last few years? I would consider it for my sedan I want to keep a while longer (10 year old Audi A4)

PIZZA.BAT
Nov 12, 2016


:cheers:


is there anyone itt who can run a VIN to get a window sticker for a ford? i want to know which performance pack my car has but as far as i can tell there aren’t any places online that will let you do this anymore

Deteriorata
Feb 6, 2005

PIZZA.BAT posted:

is there anyone itt who can run a VIN to get a window sticker for a ford? i want to know which performance pack my car has but as far as i can tell there aren’t any places online that will let you do this anymore

You can try this: https://www.fordforum.com/forum/vindecoder.php

opengl
Sep 16, 2010

PIZZA.BAT posted:

is there anyone itt who can run a VIN to get a window sticker for a ford? i want to know which performance pack my car has but as far as i can tell there aren’t any places online that will let you do this anymore

Is it a Mustang? I could tell you pretty quickly if you post some pics. Unfortunately the official portal to get window sticker PDFs no longer works so you need someone at a dealer to do it.

PIZZA.BAT
Nov 12, 2016


:cheers:


opengl128 posted:

Is it a Mustang? I could tell you pretty quickly if you post some pics. Unfortunately the official portal to get window sticker PDFs no longer works so you need someone at a dealer to do it.

yeah i called the dealer i got it from a week ago and they just never got back to me :jerkbag:

here’s a pic from right after i had the stripes put on

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!

Inner Light posted:

How have you rust proofed your Corolla in the last few years? I would consider it for my sedan I want to keep a while longer (10 year old Audi A4)

Been going to krown rust control with my Corolla. My truck I've been taking it to places that spray a product called "corrosion free" it's supposed to be better than krown, I just heard about it a couple years ago.
The Canadian armed forces did a study that compared a bunch of anti rust products and they concluded that the corrosion Free product worked better than any of the others. The study results are posted on the net in a few places including (of course) the website for corrosion free.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

PIZZA.BAT posted:

yeah i called the dealer i got it from a week ago and they just never got back to me :jerkbag:

here’s a pic from right after i had the stripes put on


Ah, an amateur driver in the event, thank you for letting us know!

(Racing stripes were originally for this purpose, in rally I think)

Car does look good with them though.

PIZZA.BAT
Nov 12, 2016


:cheers:


I’m amateur as gently caress on the track so if the stripes let the pros know i’m a dipshit than all the better haha

opengl
Sep 16, 2010

PIZZA.BAT posted:

yeah i called the dealer i got it from a week ago and they just never got back to me :jerkbag:

here’s a pic from right after i had the stripes put on


Not a PP2. Unlikely a PP1 unless the wheels have been changed. Does it have Brembos? That's the easiest tell.

e: oh it's an Ecoboost? Those only had the HPP I believe, and if it had that you'd have a fender badge (that looks like it came from AutoZone lol)

opengl fucked around with this message at 15:45 on Jul 23, 2022

PIZZA.BAT
Nov 12, 2016


:cheers:


ah gotcha. alright i felt like it didn’t have either but my instructor was asking. not sure what made him think i had one

my morning jackass
Aug 24, 2009

2015 forester making a faint bumping noise from the left front wheel. first noticeable at about 30kph and gets faster as the car accelerates. tires are in good shape. seems to resolve when turning interestingly enough. no issues with wandering of difficult steering. i probably would have had a bit of a tough time noticing anything unless i had the radio off driving today. I dont usually drive this car.

thinking its a ball joint issue but cant get the car in until tuesday. safe to drive until then?

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

The first and easiest diagnostic step for things like this is to swap the wheel/tire with another one and see if the noise and vibration follows.

While you have the front wheel in the air you can also push/pull at 9:00 and 3:00 to check for tie rod end play and 12:00 and 6:00 to check for ball joints, etc.

But this sounds like a tire issue. Probably broken belts.

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!

Motronic posted:

The first and easiest diagnostic step for things like this is to swap the wheel/tire with another one and see if the noise and vibration follows.

While you have the front wheel in the air you can also push/pull at 9:00 and 3:00 to check for tie rod end play and 12:00 and 6:00 to check for ball joints, etc.

But this sounds like a tire issue. Probably broken belts.

I don't know about now, but back in ye olden days, the jack should be under the control arm for checking the tie rods or you might not be able to detect the play due to the angle.
Unless the tie rod is really hosed, in which case, you probably got lucky driving it to wherever you are.

my morning jackass
Aug 24, 2009

i'd be super surprised if the tie rods were completely shot because it's been driving fine when i have had it out.

would a busted tire belt be more likely to wobble? it has no problem maintaining a straight line. if it is that would be pretty severe.

maybe a wheel bearing? either way i don't really have a good way to get it up on a jack and diagnose myself so i will get it in asap. thanks for some things to consider

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



Moaning accompaniment: bad wheel bearing assembly.

Sounds change quality or frequency at speed (brake caliper / rotor)

goes away on turning (both of the above + outer axle tulip/U-joint)

honda whisperer
Mar 29, 2009

Also safe to drive is up to you. Not enough info on our end. If it starts pull hard or feel like somethings flopping around stop and get a tow. It will be both safer and usually cheaper to fix vs limping it to failure.

Also great time to make sure your spare has the correct air pressure. Flat + flat spare sucks.

my morning jackass
Aug 24, 2009

fortunately not really far to go for the next couple days so i will just stick close to home and get it looked at. better safe than sorry even if it seems to be driving just fine. thanks all.

SpitztheGreat
Jul 20, 2005
A few days ago I took my car into a local Goodyear to have some basic maintenance. I asked them to give me a coolant flush as the coolant was original to the car (a 2016 Ford Fusion, 1.5L, 74,000 miles) and I've read that flushing the coolant is an overlooked part of basic maintenance. Everything goes fine, I drive home, no problems.

Three days later, I jump in my car and within minutes I'm getting overheating warnings. I pull over and I see a pool of green coolant leaking by my right front tire. I let the car cool off, and limp it the less than 1 mile back to my house, stopping twice to let it cool.

Needless to say, I'm pissed. But I'm also confused because I've read conflicting statements if mixing coolants of different colors is harmful or not. The original coolant, the coolant the owners manual calls for, is orange, but they obviously put green coolant in. I'm still waiting for the car to cool off more before I open the reservoir and see what's in there, but I figured you fine people could help clarify if mixing coolants is bad and exactly how pissed off I should be when I get the car towed back to the shop tomorrow. Right now I want to go nuclear, but I don't want to do that if you tell me the color makes no difference.

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

The color of the coolant won't cause a hose joint to fail three days after it's been serviced if that's what you're asking

According to the Ford motorcraft coolant usage chart, your car built after 2013 should get dark yellow/orange, but I couldn't tell you what makes it different from the coolant everyone has been using for the last 100 years

SpitztheGreat
Jul 20, 2005

Hadlock posted:

The color of the coolant won't cause a hose joint to fail three days after it's been serviced if that's what you're asking

According to the Ford motorcraft coolant usage chart, your car built after 2013 should get dark yellow/orange, but I couldn't tell you what makes it different from the coolant everyone has been using for the last 100 years

Yeah, now that the engine fully cooled, I popped open the reservoir and it's completely empty. Initially I was worried that they mixed coolants and they had a bad reaction to one another and created a clog, but now that I just see a pool on my driveway I figure it must be a loose fitting or something. Still though, really loving stupid.

When I bring it back to the shop, I'll ask them to use the manufacturer coolant just to keep things the same.

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Although when poo poo like that happens so close after having service work happen to the same system, makes me highly suspicious that they had the new guy do it and they hosed something up. Good luck getting the service shop to own up to it without before and after photos of the failed area.

SpitztheGreat
Jul 20, 2005

Hadlock posted:

Although when poo poo like that happens so close after having service work happen to the same system, makes me highly suspicious that they had the new guy do it and they hosed something up. Good luck getting the service shop to own up to it without before and after photos of the failed area.

I'm actually not worried. I bring my car there a lot, they actually know me. I've literally not driven my car except for when I drove it home, so I think it's a pretty easy diagnosis.

Skunkduster
Jul 15, 2005




If there is a thread/forum for lawnmowers, I can't find it. Sorry if this isn't on topic, but I figured this would be the best place to get an answer.

I'm about to replace the blades, spindles, and pulleys on my 42" Craftsman lawnmower. When I reassemble it, does it matter how the blades are orientated in relation to each other? On one hand, I'd think you'd offset them by 90 degrees for balance. On the other hand, I expect when the blades are disengaged, they are going to spin freely until they stop and it doesn't matter how they are orientated because the orientation is going to change every time they are disengaged.

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!
There is a small engine thread but I'm on my phone and not smart enough to know how to copy and paste the link for it yet.

Should be on the first or second page here

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

SkunkDuster posted:

If there is a thread/forum for lawnmowers, I can't find it. Sorry if this isn't on topic, but I figured

https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3888147&pagenumber=1&perpage=40

I'm thinking about starting a go kart thread as well, the thread above is specifically for small engines, pump engines, generators, wood chippers lawn mowers etc, not really fabrication

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

SkunkDuster posted:

If there is a thread/forum for lawnmowers, I can't find it. Sorry if this isn't on topic, but I figured this would be the best place to get an answer.

I'm about to replace the blades, spindles, and pulleys on my 42" Craftsman lawnmower. When I reassemble it, does it matter how the blades are orientated in relation to each other? On one hand, I'd think you'd offset them by 90 degrees for balance. On the other hand, I expect when the blades are disengaged, they are going to spin freely until they stop and it doesn't matter how they are orientated because the orientation is going to change every time they are disengaged.

https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3888147

And it's overwhelmingly unlikely your blades need to be clocked, certainly not on a consumer mower.

Blade balance has nothing to do with where they are in relation to each other. It's something that should be getting done when they are sharpened. (there's a little cone you can put them on - they don't need to be dead accurate but they should be close)

22 Eargesplitten
Oct 10, 2010



Is there any one weird trick for jumping with a side post battery? I was trying to jump a friend's van from my truck and the jumper cables kept losing contact with the itty-bitty side posts on my truck. I think next time I replace the battery I might see if I can get a top-post in there somehow but for now I'd really like to be able to jump to/from my current battery.

opengl
Sep 16, 2010

22 Eargesplitten posted:

Is there any one weird trick for jumping with a side post battery? I was trying to jump a friend's van from my truck and the jumper cables kept losing contact with the itty-bitty side posts on my truck. I think next time I replace the battery I might see if I can get a top-post in there somehow but for now I'd really like to be able to jump to/from my current battery.

https://www.amazon.com/Associated-Equipment-6200-Terminal-Adapter/dp/B003V5CB6W

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

22 Eargesplitten posted:

Is there any one weird trick for jumping with a side post battery? I was trying to jump a friend's van from my truck and the jumper cables kept losing contact with the itty-bitty side posts on my truck. I think next time I replace the battery I might see if I can get a top-post in there somehow but for now I'd really like to be able to jump to/from my current battery.

Do the posts have a little groove in the side you can bite into?

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

22 Eargesplitten posted:

Is there any one weird trick for jumping with a side post battery? I was trying to jump a friend's van from my truck and the jumper cables kept losing contact with the itty-bitty side posts on my truck. I think next time I replace the battery I might see if I can get a top-post in there somehow but for now I'd really like to be able to jump to/from my current battery.

Can you post a picture? I manage to do a sketchy as hell jump biting just the tippy top of a nut on my z4's trunk battery that's covered in BMW. I wouldn't want to breathe near it but it stayed put.

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

The Z4 manual specifically says not to jump from the battery in the trunk, and use the positive jump terminal/post provided in the engine bay instead

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Hadlock posted:

The Z4 manual specifically says not to jump from the battery in the trunk, and use the positive jump terminal/post provided in the engine bay instead

I think everything with an interior battery says that because of the possibility of hydrogen gas from the battery charging.

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22 Eargesplitten
Oct 10, 2010




Oh that's handy, I should get a pair of those to stick in the toolbox.


StormDrain posted:

Do the posts have a little groove in the side you can bite into?

No, it's basically a flat washer for the cable contact with a... I forget if it's 8mm or 10mm bolt holding the washer on. It's an absolute poo poo design and I hate it.

I was never interested in trucks but it has been nice during tourist season with all the rear end in a top hat city drivers, people are less likely to cut you off when your vehicle is 5000 pounds and is worth less than the paint on their bumper.

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