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Negative terminals are smaller, but they come with these handy shims:
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Nov 9, 2018 17:16
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BloodBag posted:I still forget I work in a machining candyland. We have like five tap burners at my shop. It's odd to see this guy have a weird rear end modified drill press for something you can buy off the shelf. I'm envious. I just write a quick high peck cycle and drill the tap out with an undersized endmill. I had a customer awhile back who insisted that everything be made out of invar plate, and I swear that stuff would randomly eat drills, taps, endmills etc. A new drill might last ten parts, or it might catch a chip on the cutting edge and work harden a nice little spot on the first hole. It was like Russian roulette. Relevant horrible failure: Our old Champion compressor gave up the ghost a couple years back. At first I was thinking it was just the valves, but when I looked in the cylinder I didn't see a piston, just lots of little former-piston parts. 
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Nov 10, 2018 04:45
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Rad-daddio posted:Relevant horrible failure: A buddy of mine used to work for Champion Compressors Australia, and it was his job to go around checking on failed compressors to appraise warranty claims. He got a notification to go to a factory near the Melbourne airport where a 2-month-old compressor had failed in a way that was described to him as "catastrophic". When he got there he noticed the service van for Atlas Copco was also in the parking lot. Turns out, the Atlas compressor had failed, with one of the screws seizing up, causing the other to shoot out the end at high speed, smashing into the Champion compressor. The foreman asked why someone had called him, and he was like "you had a post-install service call scheduled and you told the tech not to bother coming out because your compressor had failed spectacularly. Did you expect me not to come look at it?" This was pre-camera phones, unfortunately, because the photos he took must have been hilarious, but there was no easy way to share them.
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Nov 10, 2018 06:26
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Memento posted:
I wonder some times, how much crazy assed poo poo was not recorded/photographed in the days before everyone having a camera on everything. The days of less......... "precise" metallurgy must have been full of catastrophic mechanical failures of varying degrees.
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Nov 10, 2018 06:43
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wesleywillis posted:I wonder some times, how much crazy assed poo poo was not recorded/photographed in the days before everyone having a camera on everything. The camera thing extends to a lot of life. For example, I'd never consider doing half the stupid/illegal stuff my mates and I would do anymore. Yeah in a way that can be good, but it takes away lots of freedom and adventure.
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Nov 10, 2018 08:54
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Rad-daddio posted:I had a customer awhile back who insisted that everything be made out of invar plate, and I swear that stuff would randomly eat drills, taps, endmills etc. A new drill might last ten parts, or it might catch a chip on the cutting edge and work harden a nice little spot on the first hole. It was like Russian roulette. Invar is the worst*. It's sticky to cut/drill, and has edges like razor blades. gently caress Invar. *super Invar is worse.
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Nov 10, 2018 09:51
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13 Chrome was the worst in my experience. It's all sticky and springy and likes to tangle in the chip conveyor. I had to help a machinist clear a chip brick with tin snips and a chip hook. The chips had formed a brick under one of the weiler's crossbars that go above the conveyor and the conveyor locked up. When a chip conveyor locks up it makes a sound like a monkey banging on the side of a 50 gallon drum with a fat stick. He then reversed the conveyor and it just compacted the wad until we both had to lay down and slowly cut the wad into pieces. What a loving nightmare.
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Nov 10, 2018 13:13
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hitze posted:Just zip a drywall screw in between the terminal and clamp Dad, is that you?
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Nov 11, 2018 01:30
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No, it's the PO of my MG. My sole concession to fixing that bodge so far has been to replace it with a new screw.
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Nov 11, 2018 01:41
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I saw someone who's car wouldn't start because of a loose terminal. He got a hammer out of the trunk, rummaged around in his pocket and pulled out a penny, then proceeded to smash it between the terminal and the clamp. I mean, it worked. um excuse me fucked around with this message at 06:30 on Nov 11, 2018 |
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Nov 11, 2018 06:26
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My mates landcruiser has copper wire wound around the positive terminal of his battery. Its a 2nd hand Optima, and the dumbarse who had it before him didnt have a positive and negative terminal so he used a negative on both and hammered it on, lathing the lead down to suit... So the factory toyota positive terminal made bare minimal contact and one day melted that point out and didnt start.
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Nov 11, 2018 08:20
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um excuse me posted:I saw someone who's car wouldn't start because of a loose terminal. He got a hammer out of the trunk, rummaged around in his pocket and pulled out a penny, then proceeded to smash it between the terminal and the clamp. I used speaker wire as a shim for one of the terminals. Cut the insulation off, cut the copper to length, and presto! That car had so much PO fuckery that the battery terminal thing was the least of its issues.
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Nov 11, 2018 08:27
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I wouldn't dare hammer on a terminal; battery cases are waaaay too fragile for that. I had a 99 Accord that had one of those band-style clamps; I pulled it & deformed it with a pair of pliers into an oval; it sat tight after that. When it gets loose again, the plan is to cut a piece of copper pipe, then slit it open, and use it as a shim. And lather the whole mess up with anti-corrosion gel. Anyone remember that video of a car getting jump-started by a guy bringing over a loose battery, flipping it upside-down & touching the terminals together? In Russia or the Middle East? PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 03:30 on Nov 12, 2018 |
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Nov 12, 2018 03:27
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PainterofCrap posted:I wouldn't dare hammer on a terminal; battery cases are waaaay too fragile for that. I've seen it done right here in Massachusetts. At a boat ramp. Next to the fuel tank of a shitbox boat.
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Nov 12, 2018 03:41
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PainterofCrap posted:I wouldn't dare hammer on a terminal; battery cases are waaaay too fragile for that. I don't remember that Middle Eastern jump starting video, but I do remember this one, which seems like it's at least as dangerous: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AqkkXVn3aws
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Nov 12, 2018 04:17
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PainterofCrap posted:I wouldn't dare hammer on a terminal; battery cases are waaaay too fragile for that. They make shims... like you can just buy them and slip them on no big deal.
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Nov 12, 2018 04:23
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PainterofCrap posted:I wouldn't dare hammer on a terminal; battery cases are waaaay too fragile for that. My cousin in his meth problem days did that. With a truck. And two batteries. Acid loving EVERYWHERE.
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Nov 12, 2018 13:41
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bennyfactor posted:I don't remember that Middle Eastern jump starting video, but I do remember this one, which seems like it's at least as dangerous: At least they took the bullets out.
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Nov 12, 2018 15:16
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On a trip back to college I was driving through applet in wi when I heard this big bang and looked back to see a bunch of black stuff all over the road. The old trooper didn't miss a beat and I couldn't figure out what it was so we kept driving. About fifteen minutes later it smelled like I hit a skunk but the trooper kept humming. Finally made it to hougjton, my and backed the haul trailer in and turned the trooper off and proceeded to unload. We finished unloading and we t to start it only to hear nothing. No click nothing at all. Checked the starter and it was fine no dice so I hit it with a hammer and still no dice. Popped the hood to find that most of the battery was missing and just a few scraps were left.
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Nov 12, 2018 16:49
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Tales from CMM land: I was tasked with a first article on this little tungsten part this past Saturday. It has 3 different centerlines and a port at 5 degrees whose offset from the CL of the part overall is .050 positive. I go through the motions of picking up my datums, get my alignment, find the centerline of the part overall and then check the port. PC-DMIS has a handy thing that will give you what it thinks is the nominal location for what you just checked. I see .050 ± .005 and it checks .0506, perfect! I sign it, bless it, and send it on. Monday comes and the machinist comes and gets me. His senior lead man saw the CMM report and saw the Y axis of the report says 'nominal: -.050' Oh poo poo. My coworker loads it on his cmm, port is off location .100  And that's how not paying attention to plusses and minuses cost the company thousands in tungsten. I'm lucky in that someone else hosed up way worse over the weekend. They ran a thread hob for something like 8 threaded holes on a super high profile, QPQ coated, subsea part and the hob had no helix or pitch programmed, programmer missed it, machinist didn't check his hobbed holes with a gauge (big no-no) and all the holes got bored out to the thread minor. Scrap. I caught the gundrilling being off location on the first part and that scrapped it, so this is already the second go-around. My week is off to a lovely start.
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Nov 12, 2018 16:53
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BloodBag posted:Tales from CMM land: I was tasked with a first article on this little tungsten part this past Saturday. It has 3 different centerlines and a port at 5 degrees whose offset from the CL of the part overall is .050 positive. I go through the motions of picking up my datums, get my alignment, find the centerline of the part overall and then check the port. PC-DMIS has a handy thing that will give you what it thinks is the nominal location for what you just checked. I see .050 ± .005 and it checks .0506, perfect! Ouch. We had one last week where a new press operator failed to notice that the coil he was running was binding up in the unwind and causing pull on the feeder, which resulted in about 5,000 pcs being made out of concentricity. These parts are made from tantalum, which costs around $260/lb. Normally this should have been caught more quickly, but our inspection department was backed up and there's no way to check that feature at the press.
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Nov 12, 2018 18:05
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I worked in aerospace way back in manufacture control on the EMU. Dropping any part is a huge no-no since it's all life critical hardware. I dropped a filter for the water loop that was going to scrap. It was worth $2500 or so and the mech e I was working with was able to write it off. Later that week one of my co-workers dropped a pc board that went to the caution and warning system. It had just come out of conformal coat and was on the way to final inspection and then shipping to Houston. $250,000 part got scrapped. They figured out the g forces it saw from the height it was dropped from and no engineer in the world would sign off on it. They forgot about my filter and he didn't lose his job but had to do a piss test, meeting with probably every higher up in the company, etc.
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Nov 12, 2018 18:43
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Previous few posts were awesome. Thank you for them.
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Nov 12, 2018 18:50
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C-Bangin' it 
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bennyfactor posted:I don't remember that Middle Eastern jump starting video, but I do remember this one, which seems like it's at least as dangerous: My dad tells me of boosting a few cars back in ye olde tymey days using a coat hanger for positive, and touching the car bumpers together for the negative. wesleywillis fucked around with this message at 18:57 on Nov 12, 2018 |
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Nov 12, 2018 18:53
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wesleywillis posted:My dad tells me of boosting a few cars back in ye olde tymey days using a coat hanger for positive, and touching the car bumpers together for the negative. That's sort of how you jump a Prius C. They have a positive terminal hidden in a fuse box under the hood, then you put the negative anywhere there's bare metal. For the 2012 model the terminals were near the battery under the back seat. 
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Nov 12, 2018 19:06
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Colostomy Bag posted:Previous few posts were awesome. Thank you for them. One of the operations managers gave me a ration of poo poo for 'scrapping parts on the cmm'. Normally that's not possible, but my mentor did it once. He had a Brown & Sharp excel that was having motor control issues. Every so often it would jump 2 inches at maximum speed then just sit there. He was checking some little aluminum reflectors for semiconductor manufacturing when sure enough, the machine jumped at maximum speed straight into the part. Shattered the ruby probe, shattered the carbide shank, and dented the part so badly that they scrapped it. That's the only time I've ever heard of a CMM actually killing a part.
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Nov 13, 2018 00:29
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xzzy posted:That's sort of how you jump a Prius C. They have a positive terminal hidden in a fuse box under the hood, then you put the negative anywhere there's bare metal. That's pretty much any car that doesn't have the battery in the engine bay. My car has a post with a red piece of plastic over it for the positive terminal and any bit of metal is the negative.
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Nov 13, 2018 00:35
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Back in auto shop class in the mid-late 90’s we were taught to never hook the negative of jumper cables direct to the battery in order to avoid a spark causing a battery explosion. We were supposed to hook them up to the spot that you lift the engine from which at that time was always easily accessible and bare metal. Worked great. Doesn’t seem to be as practical these days with cars that were made after the 90’s.
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Nov 13, 2018 02:30
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It's still highly recommended on the car with the dead battery, for the same reason (car battery tech, outside of hybrids, hasn't changed much since your shop class). The dead battery may be gassing a bit if it's on its last legs (like if it's swollen or something). You sure as gently caress don't want a spark around the battery of the car you've jumped (or that you're attempting to jump) once it's been charging for more than a few seconds either; depending on its condition, it could be belching hydrogen almost as quickly as Dave emits methane. And the high amp draw from the donor car's battery may cause it to produce a bit of hydrogen. This is why you always connect to a good ground well away from the battery on the dead car when jumping - it's the last cable to be hooked up, and the first one to be disconnected. You still want to connect directly to both terminals on the donor car's battery, but since the last cable to be connected and disconnected is supposed to be on the dead car, you're supposed to be safe (if you actually follow the "connect negative to dead car's grounding point away from battery last, disconnect negative from dead car first" rule) You connect to bare metal because it gives the best conductivity, but also because it's likely to be further away from the battery. Ideally you connect to a bolt on the engine itself - you're giving the starter the best possible ground that way, and bypassing any issues with the ground strap/cable between the body and engine. 75-85% of the time, you're probably fine going terminal to terminal. But let me tell you about when my step-grandfather tried that and had it blow up in his face (literally). Lead acid batteries still emit hydrogen - how much they put out is determined by how fast they're being charged (or discharged).
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Nov 13, 2018 09:04
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In my line of work, and the hours that I work, I end up jumping a lot of folks. I raise an eyebrow when folks start telling me how to offer assistance, though most people are just grateful for the help. Once, I packed up my cables because the guy insisted I was an idiot. He was real sorry after the fact, but gently caress him. At least nowadays in the age of smartphones I can tell someone to google it instead of arguing over where the dead negative connection is supposed to be.
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Nov 13, 2018 11:50
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Everyone knows that you start by connecting the positive clip to the good battery. If you haven’t already welded the free end of the cable to the body of the donor car, you connect the negative clip to the good battery. Only then can you saunter over to the dead car and wire it up. Start with the negative terminal to give the positive more potential to short out on the frame of the dead car. (I swear this is the “instinctual” way the average person will attempt the task.) Platystemon fucked around with this message at 12:12 on Nov 13, 2018 |
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Nov 13, 2018 12:09
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I just had to jump my car using ancient-rear end cables where all the insulation had flaked off the clamps. Had to handle them with a silicone pot holder. Those cables came with my first car and had this funky switch box in the middle. You could set it to off, hook up the cables in whatever order you choose, then switch it on. I'll be sad to see them go but I'm done dealing with that stupid pot holder.
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Nov 13, 2018 13:06
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Platystemon posted:Everyone knows that you start by connecting the positive clip to the good battery. You missed "clip one to a plastic cover of some kind".
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Nov 13, 2018 13:35
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STR posted:It's still highly recommended on the car with the dead battery, for the same reason (car battery tech, outside of hybrids, hasn't changed much since your shop class). Right, I know, but the last several cars I've jumped there hasn't been that engine lift point easily accessible is what I was getting at. It's harder to find a good ground close enough to the battery for the cables of the battery starter I carry around in my car to help people out.
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Nov 13, 2018 14:32
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Just wait till someone wants you to come jump their tesla/whatever electric car
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Nov 13, 2018 23:26
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Actually, I had to jump the Zoe a couple of times. If the 12v battery that runs the lights etc goes flat, you can't turn the car on, even if the main battery is charged.
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Nov 14, 2018 00:29
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InitialDave posted:Actually, I had to jump the Zoe a couple of times. If the 12v battery that runs the lights etc goes flat, you can't turn the car on, even if the main battery is charged. This is delicious.
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Nov 14, 2018 01:15
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The EV1 had a switch under the dash that enabled the traction battery to jump the lead acid accessory battery.
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Nov 14, 2018 01:24
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wesleywillis posted:Just wait till someone wants you to come jump their tesla/whatever electric car It happens a lot, particularly with Teslas, well at least it used to. Most EV, PHEV, and hybrids still have a 12v battery (with exception of the Ioniq Hybrid, it has a integrated lithium "starter" battery) The 12v system runs all the control electronics and is needed to close the contractors for the main traction battery. Teslas, Bolts, Leafs, Volts etc.. All can need to be jumped. Early generation Model S' famously would cycle their 12v battery so hard, it would often last only a year before needing replacement.
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Nov 14, 2018 01:52
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I almost stole a used leaf from a Chevy dealer for a couple hundred bucks because if you leave it charging the main battery for months it will eventually drain the 12 volt and they had no idea how to fix the problem. The sale manager though decided he better not until someone smarter then him gave him the go ahead.
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Nov 14, 2018 02:12
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