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I immediately cue another heel as I treat my dog. Of course I can only get her to heel when I'm in the house and she's tired so maybe I'm not the best person to ask 
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Dec 21, 2012 20:33
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cryingscarf posted:I have no experience in formal heeling but someone in my agility class does competition obedience with her dog and is always doing the heel work between agility exercises. She uses little bits of cheese and puts them in her mouth and spits the food down to the dog to catch when she's heeling well. I was kind of disgusted by it, but maybe if you deliver the treats in a fun way like this he will keep looking for more rather than assuming its the end of the exercise? Otherwise I would extend the amount of time he holds the position before being rewarded. Hdip posted:I immediately cue another heel as I treat my dog. Of course I can only get her to heel when I'm in the house and she's tired so maybe I'm not the best person to ask
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Dec 21, 2012 20:42
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My dog doesn't loose leash walk. He's gotta go sniff All The Stuff and try to eat poop. Do you guys think that all dogs should be able to walk at your side? Or do you think that it's just not for some dogs? I'm working with him on leave it, so the poop thing won't be a huge problem hopefully, but he likes to walk at the end of the leash. Also, do you guys like to chain stay with to me? The people I used to work with would only allow the dog to break the stay when they released them by touching their head, and not with to me. So I'm wondering if I should do it like that, or if it'd be okay to put him in a stay, walk away, then have him come to me. Also I just did an hours training and he's still running and going nuts. Puppies. 
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Dec 21, 2012 23:03
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With little dogs, admittedly it's not as important to have a loose leash, because it isn't like they can pull you over (unless you are a total child). If Feldman pulls, just make sure he's not pulling on a collar. Little dogs can get bad neck problems very easily. I do think all dogs SHOULD be taught when they can and can not pull, though. Mix it up! As long as you have a distinct cue that permits the dog to break their stay, it doesn't matter IMO if you go back or cue them to you. If I tell my dog to stay I expect her to do exactly that until I say, 'release', regardless of whether I walk back to her or cue her to come to me or whatever. How much exercise does he get?
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Dec 21, 2012 23:12
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Fraction posted:With little dogs, admittedly it's not as important to have a loose leash, because it isn't like they can pull you over (unless you are a total child). If Feldman pulls, just make sure he's not pulling on a collar. Little dogs can get bad neck problems very easily. I try to take him out for one 30 minute walk a day, plus potty walks. My mother isn't very active, so that's pretty much it. Also when does puppydom end? I mean he's a year old does he still count as a puppy? I never know.
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Dec 21, 2012 23:15
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30 minutes a day is pretty much what my lazy 12 year old dog gets, man. No wonder he is still ready to go. About two years old is when a dog is considered an adult, iirc
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Dec 21, 2012 23:17
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Bash Ironfist posted:I try to take him out for one 30 minute walk a day That's a ridiculously low amount of exercise man. Even my parent's lazy as poo poo 7 year old Golden/Miniature poodle mix gets more than that. Triangulum fucked around with this message at 23:31 on Dec 21, 2012 |
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Dec 21, 2012 23:26
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Well I'll try to do like 2 or 3 30 minute walks a day from now on, plus an hour or so of training on top of that. Taking care of my aunts dog as well, but she's 3 years old and is a lazy dog.
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Dec 21, 2012 23:29
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Like I said before, no dog (except the very low-energy) is really going to get much physical stimulation out of any walk, unless you're like hiking up and down mountains. Dogs have twice the cardiac output potential of an Olympic athlete, so walking for several hours is still about as much exercise as climbing into a hammock would be for Michael Phelps. 30 minutes minimum of actual heart-pounding exercise is what is recommended for the majority of dogs. Neige, on the other hand, is a corgi, so she needs a good hour & 40 min before she's relaxed enough at the end of the day to settle down. A 30 minute walk is a great source of mental stimulation though, since it's a highly novel environment with all kinds of fascinating smells left by dog and human alike.
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Dec 21, 2012 23:33
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ButWhatIf posted:Like I said before, no dog (except the very low-energy) is really going to get much physical stimulation out of any walk, unless you're like hiking up and down mountains. Dogs have twice the cardiac output potential of an Olympic athlete, so walking for several hours is still about as much exercise as climbing into a hammock would be for Michael Phelps. 30 minutes minimum of actual heart-pounding exercise is what is recommended for the majority of dogs. Neige, on the other hand, is a corgi, so she needs a good hour & 40 min before she's relaxed enough at the end of the day to settle down. Ah, I didn't know that. So I don't need to do more walking, but maybe more training then?
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Dec 21, 2012 23:40
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Do you do intense play sessions throughout the day as well, BI? Or is Feldman's exercise mostly just from walks? My 2 year old jrt usually gets around two hours of intense exercise (fetch, tug, boomer ball, football, biking, etc) a day, as well a 30-60 minute fast paced walk.
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Dec 21, 2012 23:41
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Fraction posted:Do you do intense play sessions throughout the day as well, BI? Or is Feldman's exercise mostly just from walks? Well I'm currently living with 4 family members. My aunt and cousins had to move in due to money problems, and our apartment is only a 2-bedroom place. So maybe I could get him into tug? I saw someone got a kong tug toy, perhaps I can find that and teach him to tug. edit: Yeah, it's been mostly just from walks.
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Dec 21, 2012 23:45
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Bash Ironfist posted:Well I'm currently living with 4 family members. My aunt and cousins had to move in due to money problems, and our apartment is only a 2-bedroom place. So maybe I could get him into tug? I saw someone got a kong tug toy, perhaps I can find that and teach him to tug. I've been with BF's extended family for a couple days, and their BT goes absolutely nutty over tug.
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Dec 21, 2012 23:50
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Some ideas: - Jog with your dog (he's over a year now; start short and barely above walking speed if he's not used to more intense exercise) - Dog park if he's dog social I guess, or dog play dates (I think people use Craigslist for this sort of thing sometimes) - Fetch! If you have a hallway or a set of stairs you have plenty of room to exercise a small dog. - Tug and flirt pole. For tug, try a variety of things. Get some soft toys from a charity/thrift store. Get a piece of rope and put a knot on it. If he's prey drivey, get a toy made from rabbit fur or sheep wool, or buy some animal scent (like rabbit piss  ) and rub it on a rope tug, etc.
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Dec 21, 2012 23:58
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Fraction posted:Some ideas: Good ideas! Well the jogging thing I'll have to work up to because I'm pretty out of shape. But the rest is good! The dog park will have to wait because he has giardia again. I think there are a couple dog parks in the city, will check them out. I built a flirt pole a while back, will have to see if I still have it. Now I feel bad because I've been job hunting, so he's just been sleeping most of the day for the past couple of months  Will change this immediately!edit 2: Vvv ahaha, you're right. Don't need to get all  my furbaby deserves the best!
Deep Thoreau fucked around with this message at 00:12 on Dec 22, 2012 |
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Dec 22, 2012 00:04
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Bash Ironfist posted:Edit: I hope I still have a flirt pole. Can't afford to buy a new toy atm. Dude just tie a rope to a cool toy and start running around. Or attach an extra leash to a cool toy, your dog doesn't care if it's a real flirt pole.
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Dec 22, 2012 00:10
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Bash Ironfist posted:Ah, I didn't know that. So I don't need to do more walking, but maybe more training then? Why do they need to be separate? You asked if it was okay for some dogs to just pull and sniff and do whatever they want on walks, and while I wouldn't say it's not okay, it sounds like your dog would get more out of walks being working time. I've finally got my dog in a good place when we go on walks. She gets to see new things and we stop for potty breaks/sniffy time, but otherwise she is in working mode and knows that I could ask her for something at any minute (which is fun for her because that means a chance to earn a yummy reward), so she pays attention and gets a good amount of mental stimulation. It's not perfect because she's a nosy little bitch, so she's constantly surging forward to the end of her leash because omg, nature, but she's learned what pulling against the end of the leash means and boom, her brain engages again when she feels that pressure and she falls in line with me again (I do have to remind her sometimes still, but shhh). It's made walks more enjoyable for both of us, plus an hour walk tires her out. She's pretty lazy, so ymmv, but a working walk should be more tiring than just straight physical exercise in general.
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Dec 22, 2012 02:43
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Triangulum posted:I need some help with heeling. Venca loose leash walks very nicely but I want to start working on a formal heel with him. He offers the head up, glued to my knee positioning quite often but the issue I'm having is that when I c+t him, he views that as the end of the exercise and puts his head back down. How to I get him to hold the position after he's been rewarded? Should I even be worrying about that right now or should I just work on extending the amount of time he holds position before being rewarded? I've also noticed he heels really enthusiastically if I hold a ball under my armpit and use fetch as a reward but I really dislike luring and I'm worried that he's going to learn to heel only with the toy present. Is this a valid concern? I really like how Trkman teaches heeling. Though I went to go check to see how she might troubleshoot your problem from her heeling DVD but it turns out that I lost it when my hard drive crashed. So, I would recommend buying her DVD. She does a really good job of showing a great way to teach it. Vecna is less than a year old, right? Don't worry about fading the lure quite yet. I'd probably work on building that muscle memory of proper heel position before worrying about fading the lure (very gradually!). I would recommend reading Denise Fenzi's blog. She's had some recent posts about the importance of proper reward placement that I thought were very helpful. http://denisefenzi.com/ Basically, use the placement of the reward to create the position you want. If it's vaguely inconvenient for Vecna to get the reward because he's forging/lagging, etc, proper conscientious reward placement should improve the situation within a week or two of training. Also, very importantly, Trkman begins heeling training with pivot training, ie, hind end awareness. You need Vecna to understand what his rear end is doing before you get a really nice heel out of him. There are plenty of how-to videos online, but if you're having trouble finding one let me know. Teach the pivot, then work on him pivoting into heel position (and proper position on the off-side too). Then start adding a step into it (very gradually!). Just one step to the side to test/reward the dog's understanding of position, or a step backwards. One thing I've taken from Trkman's DVD is where you hold the reward. For instance, I want a nice prancey heel from Cohen. So I'm holding the food in my left hand, held behind the plane of my body. It's hard to describe, but Cohen has to work to keep her eyes on me/the reward hand, so she steps a bit higher and holds her head a bit higher to keep tabs on it. I just need to gradually shape the higher stepping forelegs via small increments. A lot of heeling is muscle memory, and, again, Vecna is very young yet so take it nice and slow. Using a toy for a reward is a great idea and encourages him to heel in drive. Don't reward flat heeling. Only throw the ball when you see real effort put forth by him. Again, if he's forging, throw the ball behind you. If he's lagging, through it in front, or across your path. This is a very quick crash course on the process. Please post more to specify what issues you're running into and I'd be happy to troubleshoot it with you. I'm getting more into comp OB with Cohen, and heeling, as always, is the crux of all the exercises so we're trying to polish that up a lot with her.
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Dec 22, 2012 03:19
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Bash Ironfist posted:Good ideas! Well the jogging thing I'll have to work up to because I'm pretty out of shape. But the rest is good! The dog park will have to wait because he has giardia again. I think there are a couple dog parks in the city, will check them out. Get a dog backpack and toss some ankle weights or something in there. Shelby carries around 10 pounds on a 5-10 mile hike when I really want to tire her out. Don't just start at 10 pounds though, work your way up to it.
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Dec 22, 2012 03:59
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Stregone posted:Get a dog backpack and toss some ankle weights or something in there. Shelby carries around 10 pounds on a 5-10 mile hike when I really want to tire her out. Don't just start at 10 pounds though, work your way up to it. Well my dog is a little Boston Terrier, so I'd be afraid that'd break his back or something. Maybe I can teach him to carry a nylabone in his mouth while we're out walking or something!
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Dec 22, 2012 04:10
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Haha. Well, the rule of thumb is no more than a quarter to a third their body weight.
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Dec 22, 2012 05:59
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So the dog training classes I'm considering going to have suddenly added the term "leadership" to their curriculum. I'm wary that they've gone all crazy gung ho dominance theory on me, so I tossed them an email, but can anyone else come up with an explanation for "leadership" other than that?
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Dec 22, 2012 15:48
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polyfractal posted:Ok, question of mine: I'm driving home to my parents house and taking my dog. My parents have a dog that is basically a feral, floofy lap-dog. Little cocker spaniel, basically no training, apparently barks at everything (dishwasher turns on? Bark. Someone drops something? Bark. Toilet flushes? Bark.) Whenever she get's upset my parents just pick the dog up to comfort her. It's apparently really anxious, territorial and possessive of my mom. Sorry to be pushy with this question, but I'm kinda freaking out about it and I'll be leaving this afternoon. If the two dogs don't get along, my parents want me to put mine in a kennel while I'm home 
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Dec 22, 2012 16:03
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If your dog is friendly then it's just management. You can keep your dog tethered to you and keep him in whatever room you're in and keep the other dog out of that particular room. My mom freaks out when her dog and my dog play because she thinks it's to rough and they're going to hurt each other so one dog stays outside and the other stays inside for the most part when I go over. Or I keep my dog in whatever room I'm in and her dog has the rest of the house to roam.
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Dec 22, 2012 21:01
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Fluffy Bunnies posted:So the dog training classes I'm considering going to have suddenly added the term "leadership" to their curriculum. I'm wary that they've gone all crazy gung ho dominance theory on me, so I tossed them an email, but can anyone else come up with an explanation for "leadership" other than that? I personally do think "leadership" is something you need when living with dogs. It doesn't mean that you have to alpha roll your dogs or pull any Millanesque poo poo on them, but I see it as setting and enforcing the rules in a non-threatening, predictable way and being fair to the animal. I see it as being benevolent and reliable in your leadership, I guess. Edit. Here is another article: http://www.clickertraining.com/node/2430
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Dec 22, 2012 21:28
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Hdip posted:If your dog is friendly then it's just management. You can keep your dog tethered to you and keep him in whatever room you're in and keep the other dog out of that particular room. Thanks for the advice. The fateful day was today. I'm going to vent a little, because I'm really angry at my parents right now. My dog was an absolute angel, which was really surprising. I was expecting growling and barking, or at the very least some rough play. But after a 10hr car drive, she completely ignored my parents dog and just sniffed/explored the house. Really unexpected, she always reacts to dogs, even if it's just because she wants to play. We played some ball outside with the two dogs and I was pretty hopeful. Unfortunately, my parents dog literally would not stop barking once we got inside. She barked for a good 2-3 hours straight and would only be silent if she was being held or removed to a different room. My dog would be laying down chewing on a toy and theirs would just stand three feet away and bark non-stop. If mine got up to walk around, theirs would run and hide and continue barking from a safe distance. Ok...we can deal with this. I started dispensing treats to both of them. Both dogs are pretty food motivated, so that quieted her down and got the two dogs in close proximity. Great! But then my parents made me stop, because they were afraid their dog was "going to get sick" from too many treats. Can't use her regular food either, because "she eats on a schedule". Their method to deal with the barking is to smack her muzzle, or clamp her mouth closed, or just pick her up. Clearly it's effective, great work guys. Soooo basically, my parents wouldn't let me use the only method that might actually work, then concluded that the arrangement simply wasn't viable. I was forced to take my dog to the kennel because they are lovely dog owners and can't train their dog not to be an obnoxious poo poo. And I can't keep the dogs separated, because they are only letting the dogs in one portion of the house. Their dog might get "jealous" if mine is allowed to be in the other parts of the house. I'm so frustrated right now. I realize it's their house, and my dog is the intruder. But poo poo, they didn't even try to make it work. First Christmas with my dog and she's going to be stuck in a kennel. Bonus points: Their dog continues to bark at everything anyway, so it's not like the house is much quieter. Awesome. I'm done ranting, sorry
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Dec 24, 2012 03:34
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http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=451963061530415&set=vb.152876678058553&type=2&theater Been following this dogs status since I already watch the FB page. They rescued a shepherd who was about to be euthed for being attacky. Conclusion was that he was trained as a protection dog and was just doing his job...that links a video of the trainer he is at now and I'm curious if you guys can figure out how the trainers doing his stuff to train that dog. Of course its mostly scene 1 look at this vicious dog and then cut to look how awesome he is now.
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Dec 24, 2012 04:33
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Malalol posted:http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=451963061530415&set=vb.152876678058553&type=2&theater Ugh, that poor dog. In the initial scene, the dog is clearly anxious and trying to get the one man not to approach him, but his tail, which is slow and somewhat relaxed, and his ears/posture indicate to me that he is not overly aggressive. I have no experience with attack/protection dogs, but I would not expect it to look like that. That IS what my dog looks like when she is trying to get a stranger not to approach her. The man giving him corrections clearly escalates things. The dog's ears are very flat at the end, which looks to me like he's starting to shut down. In the rest of the video, it's really hard to see what's happening. I gather from the beginning and the comments that the dog is on a choke chain and is therefore choking himself whenever he has a reaction. The trainer doesn't seem to be backing off at strategic intervals like when the dog shows him a calming signal. At first I thought the trainer was trying to get the dog to relax by working (asking him to sit and get up on the ledge), but by the end, it looked to me like the dog was just shutting down. You can see his tail tucked between his legs at times. Without knowing what the trainer was actually doing/going for and without seeing the dog's face, it's hard to tell for sure.
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Dec 24, 2012 04:59
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Kiri koli posted:Ugh, that poor dog. In the initial scene, the dog is clearly anxious and trying to get the one man not to approach him, but his tail, which is slow and somewhat relaxed, and his ears/posture indicate to me that he is not overly aggressive. I have no experience with attack/protection dogs, but I would not expect it to look like that.
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Dec 24, 2012 08:32
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polyfractal posted:I'm done ranting, sorry Sorry, your parents sound pretty difficult, it's too bad they can't find a place for your dog to chill out. The worst my lab has to deal with is one uncle who likes to pick him up and bring him around to kiss people's faces. Luckily, he loves this.
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Dec 24, 2012 19:09
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What's a good way to muffle a clicker a bit? It's not loud enough to hurt my puppy's ears or anything, it's just loud enough to be really obnoxious. Problem is I haven't been able to find anything that makes it quieter without also completely ruining the entire point of the thing or silencing it completely.
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Dec 24, 2012 22:15
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VDay posted:What's a good way to muffle a clicker a bit? It's not loud enough to hurt my puppy's ears or anything, it's just loud enough to be really obnoxious. Problem is I haven't been able to find anything that makes it quieter without also completely ruining the entire point of the thing or silencing it completely. Snapple lids make pretty quiet clickers.
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Dec 24, 2012 22:22
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Invalid Octopus posted:Snapple lids make pretty quiet clickers.
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Dec 25, 2012 09:53
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a life less posted:I really like how Trkman teaches heeling. Though I went to go check to see how she might troubleshoot your problem from her heeling DVD but it turns out that I lost it when my hard drive crashed. So, I would recommend buying her DVD. She does a really good job of showing a great way to teach it. Thanks for all of this, it was really helpful. Yeah, Vecna is a little over 5 months old right now. I think I'm gonna take a couple steps back and work on the pivot first because what you said about needing to know what his rear end is doing hit home. His rear end is usually swinging wide when he's focusing on me so we definitely need to work on that. I'll see if I can find a copy of that DVD too. I've been finding that since he hit puberty, toy rewards are a lot more effective for him than food. He likes food and he'll work for it but toys make him throw himself into whatever position I ask for. The problem I've been having with that is that he's losing premolars at a ridiculous rate so I can't really tug with him right now and I can't very well throw a ball when we're on the street. It's not a huge problem because we're mostly in a park or wooded area but it's a bit frustrating.
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Dec 25, 2012 13:01
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Ugh, okay, I am not even sure if this is the right thread for this but whatever, I have a Q about my dumb dog. My parents are big dramatic babies and there are a lot of arguments and meltdowns in their house. Moses has always been a big sensitive baby about people arguing, so I always tried to keep him away from it, but it wasn't always possible and he got to where whenever people would fight, he'd get in the middle of it and bark and freak out for everyone to stop. He usually isn't defensive of a specific person, and there's no growling or threatening to bite- he just throws off appeasement gestures while barking loudly and making anxious faces, basically begging everyone to stop it as clearly as a dog can. It was bullshit that he had to be in the middle of all of that fighting, and I did try to keep him away from it, but whatever, here we are. When I moved I was super happy for him because "yay, now he won't have to see people screaming at each other all the time and he will get to be happy!!" and he is MUCH happier now that he's in a non-hosed up environment BUT, being around it has had lasting effects, apparently- now, whenever people are loud, or get physical at all, he gets concerned about it. If my partner and I hug, or do ANYTHING physical around him, he comes running and pushes between us and is like "WHAT ARE YOU DOoOING  " and if there is loud laughter or anything accompanying it, he starts barking. My partner shoved me yesterday, just playing around, and Moses flew off the couch and launched in between us and just barked and barked and barked. It seems like every single interaction between two people he witnesses puts him on high alert and he panics and feels like he has to ~do something~ if everyone isn't perfectly quiet and calm. My partner and I don't fight at all really, and there isn't any tension, it's just like he doesn't know what to make of people interacting anymore because just about *all* he witnessed in my parents house was people staying as far away from each other as possible interspersed with Jerry Springer style screaming/shoving matches. It's no wonder he doesn't know what to make of normal human interaction anymore.  Basically, what I want to figure out is how to show him that he doesn't have to have a panic attack every time two people look at each other. I want to emphasise that there is NO aggression- it's all just explosions of every appeasement gesture he can throw combined with barking. He gets between us, starts wiggling like crazy while whining and doing an appeasement dog grin, and then barks. Sometimes he throws his toys at us like "OH MY GOD NO JUST PLAY INSTEAD ITS OKAY RIGHT, EVERYTHING IS OKAY " while barking and barking. He comes running when we start talking to each other and stares at us like he's waiting to see if he's going to have to intervene. I hope it doesn't sound like I'm anthropomorphizing too much, but as focused on people as he is, he really does obsess over the way people interact and what it all means and he just seems very confused like he doesn't know what to make of our interactions. He doesn't want treats in these situations, he wants to know that everything is okay- if I just treated him for being calm and not barking he would probably ignore it, and if he didn't, I worry that he would still be internally melting down and just not showing it because he knows I want him to stay calm and not freak out. We've been pretty much just verbally consoling him, but I'm not sure if that's just validating that he had something to freak out about in the first place, and to be honest it doesn't seem to help much anyway- he wants the interaction to end and it seems like he feels like he can't leave it alone until the people are away from each other. Blah blah whatever, how do I convince my poor anxious dog that talking/laughing/hugging =! arguing and fighting and that he doesn't have to have a panic attack and then police everyone/save the day whenever two people interact with each other? he just wants everyone to get along but he doesn't understand that we ARE getting along, lmao
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Dec 26, 2012 16:07
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Superconsndar posted:Blah blah whatever, how do I convince my poor anxious dog that talking/laughing/hugging =! arguing and fighting and that he doesn't have to have a panic attack and then police everyone/save the day whenever two people interact with each other? You could try shovelling high value treats (you say he doesn't want them, but if he'll take them it might help to stream cheese/hotdogs/Frankies down his throat), or engaging him in play when you're interacting with your partner (e.g. so you could be hugging partner or laughing while playing tug or fetch with him).
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Dec 26, 2012 16:20
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Fraction posted:You could try shovelling high value treats (you say he doesn't want them, but if he'll take them it might help to stream cheese/hotdogs/Frankies down his throat), or engaging him in play when you're interacting with your partner (e.g. so you could be hugging partner or laughing while playing tug or fetch with him). I figured as much, we've sort of been doing that when he comes running and throws toys at us- we'll pick up whatever he brought and start playing. Doesn't seem like it's stopping the initial "OMG I MUST INTERVENE" reaction, though.  Will def try loading our pockets with offensive and gross treats and cramming them down his throat whenever he stops barking for a second.
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Dec 26, 2012 16:24
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What about calling him to you before you begin interacting, and having a toy ready? If you preempt him maybe you can work up to him being able to sit/wait while you interact briefly (e.g. call him, ask for a sit, quick hug, release to play tug/fetch). If you shovel treats, don't forget he doesn't have to not be barking. He just has to be willing to take the treat. Classical condition that poo poo 
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Dec 26, 2012 16:31
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Hug him with your partner. Make it a doggie sandwich hug. (but really yeah, just make him fat with treats and maybe his dogmania will go away)
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Dec 26, 2012 16:34
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Okay, I wasn't sure he'd even take treats whilst experiencing the emotional trauma of two people having a conversation, but I just tore a piece of bread into little pieces (Moses is weird as hell and crappy wheat bread that makes him itchy is the ultimate and most coveted Moses Treat, I don't even know) and when he came running and started ~STARING~ at us for talking I offered it to him. At first he was like "NO STOP IT DON'T DISTRACT ME I AM WORKING!!!!" but then he realized it was bread and that changed things.  He chilled because he was getting bread and is now off thinking about the fact that he got bread. We'll keep some on us and make him fat and itchy and hopefully this will work, we'll see. Thank u goons~
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Dec 26, 2012 16:44
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