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Musket posted:Fmount, Rmount, FD mount, Fujinons X mount, and K mount lovely budget fotodiox adapters all go pass hard stop infinity. You get what you pay for. Is it a huge deal? It can be if you scalefocus/prefocus your poo poo based on the lens distance markings. If you MF in viewfinder all the time, give no fucks about hard stop infinity. It has nothing to do with how cheap or expensive the adapter is. I understand they all go beyond infinity. If you know a NEX-F adapter that has hard stop at infinity, let me know. I have never seen or heard of one.
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May 31, 2013 21:08
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whatever7 posted:It has nothing to do with how cheap or expensive the adapter is. I understand they all go beyond infinity. If you know a NEX-F adapter that has hard stop at infinity, let me know. I have never seen or heard of one. It has everything to do with cheapness of fabricating them. A 200bux adapter hardstops at infinity.
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May 31, 2013 21:21
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Musket posted:It has everything to do with cheapness of fabricating them. A 200bux adapter hardstops at infinity. Tell me the name of the adapter and I will do the research myself.
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May 31, 2013 21:59
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Hope you enjoy spending 295bux to try to prove people wrong. http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=&sku=888375&is=REG&Q=&A=details Musket fucked around with this message at 22:08 on May 31, 2013 |
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May 31, 2013 22:03
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Musket posted:Hope you enjoy spending 220bux to try to prove people wrong. I can just ask people who own this adapter you know. You make it sound like making adapter is some rocket science. It's just a tube.
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May 31, 2013 22:09
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Musket posted:Hope you enjoy spending 295bux to try to prove people wrong. I think someone woke up on the wrong side of the bokeh this morning. 
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May 31, 2013 22:09
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whatever7 posted:I can just ask people who own this adapter you know. Rockets are mostly just tubes too, actually.
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May 31, 2013 22:16
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Mr. Despair posted:Rockets are mostly just tubes too, actually. Lens rocket science is easy, you just need some duck tape and a couple reverse lens adapters. 
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May 31, 2013 22:38
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whatever7 posted:Lens rocket science is easy, you just need some duck tape and a couple reverse lens adapters. How do you do this?
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May 31, 2013 22:40
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whatever7 posted:Lens rocket science is easy, you just need some duck tape and a couple reverse lens adapters. drat, is that a hacked up lens from a Canonet 17? Sweet!
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May 31, 2013 23:29
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I actually have a cheap ebay M->NEX adapter that doesn't even focus *to* infinity. I replaced it with a $150 adapter with a built-in helicoid and it works great - I don't know if it hard stops exactly at infinity, but it's close enough that I don't notice.
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May 31, 2013 23:35
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whatever7 posted:Lens rocket science is easy, you just need some duck tape and a couple reverse lens adapters. Now we're talking. 
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May 31, 2013 23:41
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teraflame posted:How do you do this? Mightaswell posted:drat, is that a hacked up lens from a Canonet 17? Sweet! I have post this rangefinder lens conversion before. Pretty sure was on this thread. I paid some guy on Xitek to do it for me. He was buying up the broken cameras on ebay and mass converting them so I just mailed him my Canonet QL17 and have him made it. If anybody is interested in doing it himself, I may be able to find the old old Xitek thread that has all the conversion photos. All the text are in Chinese of course. The concept is not that hard. You basically dissemble the rangefinder lens first; use a NEX body cap as the base of the new lens. The hard part is tieing the aperture controlling mechanism to one of the rings on the lens. As far as focusing goes, you screw in to focus to infinity; screw out to focus to close object. I can literally unscrew the frontal part of the lens if I am not careful. The guy was too lazy to put a stopper there.
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Jun 1, 2013 00:48
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So I got a great deal on a barely used Zeiss C-Biogon 35mm ZM lens and was a little surprised to see it as one of the few unsupported lenses to Fuji's X-M adapter. So I said to myself, gently caress it - let's try it anyways. Lo and behold: it works just fine... 
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Jun 1, 2013 21:29
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What would a safe entry level choice be? Looking at around 500CAD$ or so. VVV Casual and vacation type photos. It's for my sister who want a point and click sized camera that can change lenses for some reason. MasterBuilder fucked around with this message at 22:38 on Jun 2, 2013 |
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Jun 2, 2013 21:41
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MasterBuilder posted:What would a safe entry level choice be? Looking at around 500CAD$ or so. Entry level choice to do what?
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Jun 2, 2013 22:35
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I'd say the Lumix GF3 is probably a good choice judging from what I've read. P&S-like operation, built in flash, 4/3 sensor, tons of m4/3 lenses on the market and it's a couple generations old so you probably can find a used one dirt cheap.
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Jun 3, 2013 01:56
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MasterBuilder posted:What would a safe entry level choice be? Looking at around 500CAD$ or so. Having interchangeable lenses is nice at the least because the sensors tend to be much easier to clean without breaking your camera. I had a Canon G7 broken by a 'professional' repairman and the used G9 I got to replace it had smaller specks of dust on the sensor too. It might cost more but you should get 5+ years of use out of a decent camera.
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Jun 3, 2013 06:54
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rexelation posted:I'd say the Lumix GF3 is probably a good choice judging from what I've read. P&S-like operation, built in flash, 4/3 sensor, tons of m4/3 lenses on the market and it's a couple generations old so you probably can find a used one dirt cheap. +1 for the GF3. I bought one new about 2 years ago with the 20mm f/1.7 pancake lens and it's served me well. I've seen the same kit I bought on sale recently for $399AUD, whatever that is in yank bucks. The only issues I have with it is that it has no external mic input (and the internal mic is rubbish), no hot shoe (for attaching a flash or external mic) and shoots interlaced (1080i) video. None of those are deal-breakers given that it's a entry-level stills camera and not a video camera, but still...
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Jun 3, 2013 07:39
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Bottled Water posted:+1 for the GF3. I bought one new about 2 years ago with the 20mm f/1.7 pancake lens and it's served me well. I've seen the same kit I bought on sale recently for $399AUD, whatever that is in yank bucks. AUD399 is GBP250. The 20mm 1.7 is GBP250 on its own on ebay. That was a hell of a deal. Man, I want a 20mm.
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Jun 3, 2013 08:34
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Price drop on the X-E1 in the USA. Body only $799 Body + 35F1.4 is $1199 Body + 18-55 is $1199 Body + 18F2 is $1099 jeeezus
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Jun 3, 2013 18:44
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Mightaswell posted:Price drop on the X-E1 in the USA. drat good deal. I'd buy that over the om-d today unless you were shooting sports or birds or something.
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Jun 3, 2013 19:11
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I always buy them 3 months before they drop to crazy prices. Maybe they'll drop some of the lens prices (14mm please).
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Jun 3, 2013 19:35
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Helicity posted:I always buy them 3 months before they drop to crazy prices. Maybe they'll drop some of the lens prices (14mm please). That's why you should buy them at launch or right before the new version is out. Although to be fair the Japanese version of XE1 has had the price drop a few months ago.
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Jun 3, 2013 20:49
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So I started looking around some online websites for camera stores around Toronto and the prices seem to be all over the place. Is the GF3 still the best bang for the buck? SONY NEX-3N W/ 16-50MM LENS $450 OLYMPUS PEN E-PM2 W/14-42 LENS $400 NIKON 1 V1 BLACK W/10-30MM VR LENS $380 PANASONIC DMC-GF5 W/14-42 STANDARD ZOOM BLACK $450 Panasonic Lumix DMC-GF3X Digital Camera with 14-42mm f/3.5-5.6 Lumix G X Power Zoom Lens $450
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Jun 4, 2013 00:29
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You can get a Nikon J1 with lens for $200 on ebay. Why waste money if you just want a "noob" system.
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Jun 4, 2013 01:30
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mAlfunkti0n posted:I have a Canon 40D right now, with a 17-50 tamron, 50mm 1.8 and Yongnuo YN-560 II flash. While I would love to become a wedding photographer and everything else, I just don't have the time. My images mostly consist of places/things and a few people here and there. Would one of these new mirrorless cameras do better than the 40D setup I have right now? I don't take it with me too many places, mainly because I just have to carry so much. Had pretty similar kit to you and switched over to the X-Pro1. Sold all my Canon gear except my 580EXII. I've now the 35 and the 18-55mm lenses. Can't say miss the 40D at all. I was out at a light show last night and it was great, nice and light, easy to throw in a shoulder bag and forget I had it with me when I wasn't taking shots.
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Jun 5, 2013 01:54
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Having trouble with my GF1 — it won't turn on! - tried with a friend's battery; works fine (and his didn't turn on with my battery) - it's either the battery or charger - I'm using a Hähnel UniPal as my charger (lost the original one) http://www.hahnel.ie/index.cfm?page=universalchargers&id=54&pId=54 - Charging light keeps going green (saying that the battery is fully charged) Things that could be wrong: - charger is misrepresenting battery charge level - battery's capacity is gone - battery think it's charged when it isn't Has anyone had anything similar happen before? Don't really want to spend money on two things when it might only be one weak link…
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Jun 5, 2013 16:58
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Zurich posted:Having trouble with my GF1 — it won't turn on! Try charging your friend's battery with your charger and you can determine what is at fault. (You may also fry a perfectly good battery) Personally, I would buy a new battery and try that. If it works, you are all good. If it doesn't, you buy a new charger and enjoy having 2 batteries.
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Jun 5, 2013 17:11
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spog posted:Try charging your friend's battery with your charger and you can determine what is at fault. (You may also fry a perfectly good battery) Annoyingly he was only in town for one day - I guess I'll buy a battery!
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Jun 5, 2013 17:13
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I've been thinking about my wildlife photography setup for a while, but keep coming back to the cost for a significant upgrade to my current setup (Canon 60D + 70-300L). I haven't thought much about mirrorless options however. I've seen a few photographers using Nikon 1 system cameras, something like a V1 + 1.4TC + 300f/4 would have pretty good reach for a "reasonable" price. This would be a lot cheaper than a lens upgrade for my Canon, even if I only use the V1 for telephoto shots. What are the downsides to this setup? Also, what would a good wildlife setup with m43 look like? Oly OM-D has the best AF, (right?), but what lens in the 300-400 range would pair best? I feel like I'd be much more likely to use a m43 camera for other things (e.g. second camera for portrait/landscape, or primary walk-around when I don't bring my Canon). I'd be OK with this primarily used on a tripod. Thanks!
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Jun 5, 2013 19:54
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Nikon 1 cameras with the F-mount adapter (FT-1) only get one AF point, a fairly large box in the center of the screen. Also, they can only do AF-S. Is that worth it for decent quality super telephoto? You decide. A 300mm + 1.4TC + Nikon 1 crop factor is 1134mm, right? I don't think you'll get that combo of reach/quality/price anywhere else. There are two big downsides to the 1 system. One is that the lenses Nikon is putting out for it aren't exactly exciting. So far Nikon has been pretty much rehashing their DX lineup. The second downside is that from a firmware perspective they seem to be treating the 1 system as more of advanced point and shoot than a DSLR. E.g. prominently featured motion-snapshot mode, can't set the auto-iso shutter threshold in the J1, removal of the intervalometer between V1->V2, and it's not a firmware thing but the hotshoe is non-standard. Which is really head-scratch inducing when you consider that they've released an 85mm portait lens equivalent. Why would I want a dedicated, expensive portrait lens for a system that doesn't support off camera flash? On the upside the 400fps slow motion video is quite fun to play with and they've got a 60fps continuous shooting mode.
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Jun 5, 2013 21:09
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There is a ghetto $200 option you can consider. Canon SX50 HS, teh fiffffftty Ex optical zoom. I think V1 is the next logical choice. I have been thinking about a Canon 100D+ 70-200mm f/4 combo. It may be still too heavy as a second camera.
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Jun 5, 2013 21:25
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Thanks^^Dren posted:Nikon 1 cameras with the F-mount adapter (FT-1) only get one AF point, a fairly large box in the center of the screen. Also, they can only do AF-S. Is that worth it for decent quality super telephoto? You decide. The AF point probably wouldn't bug me- I haven't taken my 60D off center-point since I figured out back-button focus. quote:A 300mm + 1.4TC + Nikon 1 crop factor is 1134mm, right? I don't think you'll get that combo of reach/quality/price anywhere else. Hmmm- I'll need play with one of these to see whether this kind of stuff would bug me. whatever7 posted:There is a ghetto $200 option you can consider. When I first found Dorkroom I was all about my Panasonic bridge camera, but you goons helped me see the light. Not sure I could go back to that. quote:I have been thinking about a Canon 100D+ 70-200mm f/4 combo. It may be still too heavy as a second camera. The SL1 seems like a fun little camera, but I think I'd find it hard to balance with a telephoto. The shorty forty on the other hand...
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Jun 5, 2013 21:49
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As a J1 owner, I advise you to consider m4/3 for your ghetto birding needs. There is no IBIS in the 1-series cameras, and frankly the image quality is fine for around the house but I would be reluctant to do wildlife with it.
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Jun 5, 2013 21:54
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BetterLekNextTime posted:I've been thinking about my wildlife photography setup for a while, but keep coming back to the cost for a significant upgrade to my current setup (Canon 60D + 70-300L). You wouldn't actually have longer reach though, just a smaller FOV on the V1. You'd probably get basically the same image quality, except with a bit less pixel resolution, by just using your Canon 60D and cropping small around the wildlife, instead of the V1 doing the cropping for you.
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Jun 5, 2013 22:21
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Costello Jello posted:You wouldn't actually have longer reach though, just a smaller FOV on the V1. You'd probably get basically the same image quality, except with a bit less pixel resolution, by just using your Canon 60D and cropping small around the wildlife, instead of the V1 doing the cropping for you. It looks like the Nikon has somewhat higher pixel density, (~0.086 mp/mm^2 vs ~0.050 for my Canon), but I don't know if that's enough to be a real advantage.
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Jun 5, 2013 22:47
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EVF does help a lot. Composing just with an OVF sometimes you can't tell if an object is in focus. I brought a Nikon AFD 180mm/2.8 on a road trip last week. It was pretty easy to zoom in focus with my XE1's EVF. My two friends both have 5100 (or D3100? I don't remember). Their bodies don't have the focus motor and it was very hard for them to manual focus with the lens.  DSCF8506c whatever7 fucked around with this message at 23:44 on Jun 5, 2013 |
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Jun 5, 2013 23:40
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Manually focusing long lenses on teh OM-D is pretty fun.  fake edit: I have an old 400/5.6 showing up tomorrow too, that should be fun. real edit: this is what I actually use for birds and stuff right now. 520mm/4.5 equivalent. Weighs probably 3, 3 and a half pounds easy. Not bad for a 30 dollar lens though. 
Dr. Despair fucked around with this message at 00:08 on Jun 6, 2013 |
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Jun 5, 2013 23:58
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Speaking of comical lenses on mirrorless cameras, borrowed my buddy's 600mm Nikkor to shoot my commercial high school baseball team playing in the prefectural championship:
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Jun 6, 2013 01:44
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