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Enos Cabell posted:I don't think I've ever seen a correctly sized wire nut fail, but I suppose "correctly sized" is doing a lot of lifting in that sentence. I size mine correctly then wrap in high quality electrical tape as a layer of protection. I prefer wago connectors though, hands down.
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May 17, 2021 21:40
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Blindeye posted:I size mine correctly then wrap in high quality electrical tape as a layer of protection. I prefer wago connectors though, hands down. i don't understand what's being protected but you do you
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May 17, 2021 22:46
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Sinking into new depths of perversity ITT.
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May 17, 2021 22:57
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It was always fun cutting off miles of nasty, goopy cheap electrical tape because the homeowner thought they were helping.
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May 17, 2021 23:08
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Elviscat posted:It was always fun cutting off miles of nasty, goopy cheap electrical tape because the homeowner thought they were helping. Yeah......exactly this. It's also not workmanlike and I would have failed it on an inspection because I can't see if the wires were stripped properly. if the nut is on properly, etc.
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May 17, 2021 23:10
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What is electrical tape intended to be used for?
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May 17, 2021 23:39
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It's mainly used on types of splices that aren't inherently insulated it's used as an (usually) outer layer, normally you go self-amalgamating rubber tape, for water resistance and insulation, friction or glass-fiber tape for puncture resistance, than a protective, insulating, sticky layer of vinyl tape, not something you'd see on residential very often, and even bigger splices are moving away from bugs (split bolts) to other connectors in insulated shells. It can also be used to fix minor damage to wire insulation, identify conductor colors, used over the screws on devices in mud rings, especially for temporary applications, bundle wires together, things like that.
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May 17, 2021 23:53
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:What is electrical tape intended to be used for? Ducts.
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May 17, 2021 23:53
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:What is electrical tape intended to be used for? Repairing the cord of your circular saw.
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May 17, 2021 23:53
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Blacking out leds on various devices. There is no reason the power indicator on my fan needs to double as a nightlight.
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May 18, 2021 00:08
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Electric tape (vinyl tape) is great for labeling plastic things and I've made some tshirt designs for events too.
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May 18, 2021 00:11
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Khizan posted:Blacking out leds on various devices. There is no reason the power indicator on my fan needs to double as a nightlight.
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May 18, 2021 00:27
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Phanatic posted:Isn't the US/Canada pretty much the only place where wire nuts are allowed? I'm sure they're allowed elsewhere, they're just not used.
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May 18, 2021 02:02
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:What is electrical tape intended to be used for? covering one's nipples at the rave
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May 18, 2021 03:34
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Empty Sandwich posted:covering one's nipples at the rave I tape around the nipples ok.
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May 18, 2021 03:41
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StormDrain posted:Repairing the cord of your circular saw. I did not come to this thread to be attacked in such a manner  
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May 18, 2021 03:42
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kastein posted:I did not come to this thread to be attacked in such a manner I once used a corded electric saw (not a circular saw obviously) to trim the edges of a hole in the ceiling from above. When I got all the way around, a funny thing happened.
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May 18, 2021 03:49
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I've been using a corded electric lawnmower for about 15 years now. I've run over the cord a total of zero times
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May 18, 2021 03:54
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kastein posted:I did not come to this thread to be attacked in such a manner I enjoy what appears to be another nick in the taped section.
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May 18, 2021 03:55
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Empty Sandwich posted:I've been using a corded electric lawnmower for about 15 years now. 
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May 18, 2021 04:00
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In my defense, it did take ten years of using this saw to finally send it into ouroboros mode.StormDrain posted:I enjoy what appears to be another nick in the taped section. Nope, that's just a really drat deep nick under the tape  Me, an electrical engineer: gently caress it whatever, you can only see the copper in the white wire, where's my electrical tape I've got a floor to finish underlayment on
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May 18, 2021 04:20
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n0tqu1tesane posted:How about this "fall down the stairs and straight out a second story window" Christ, that reminds me of a loss I did in Vineland in November. Owner had wind damage to the roof. The roof was also installed during the Reagan administration, so a few missing tabs was the least of its troubles. She had no water damage inside the house, but she wanted me to check her attic space. Leads me to a pull-down stair that drops...right over the staircase to the basement. So, when someone exceeds the 150-lb weight limit on this balsa wonder, they're dropping 16-feet straight onto a concrete staircase. Nope. Not doing it (I haven't ever seen 150).  "But my nephew went up there!" "Tell him to send me the pictures."
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May 18, 2021 05:03
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Extant Artiodactyl posted:i don't understand what's being protected but you do you I tape the wire nut so it doesn't back out. If it's things like fixtures, though, I use wago connectors. I'm never going into my attic to look at that junction box in my lifetime so it's not a big deal there. It's very belt-and-suspenders but I tend to overbuild things. The electrician I learned some of the basics from swears by one single wrap of electrical tape around an outlet or switch to cover the exposed wires and terminals, which to me seemed crazy but another electrician I met did it too so I'm wondering if that's A Thing.
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May 18, 2021 05:34
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Blindeye posted:The electrician I learned some of the basics from swears by one single wrap of electrical tape around an outlet or switch to cover the exposed wires and terminals, which to me seemed crazy but another electrician I met did it too so I'm wondering if that's A Thing. It's A Thing from electricians who don't have to get real inspections and/or super old school. If you need tape you're doing it wrong and it's unsafe. If you think you need tape you aren't confident enough in your junction to be working on structured high voltage. I'd suggest you take that as advice.
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May 18, 2021 05:41
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As a teen I ran over a cord with my desk chair bad enough to damage it. I'd run over a few times before I noticed. My understanding of how to fix this went so: 1. Remove enough insulation to expose the wire. 2. Twist the wire together. 3. Tape over the exposed wire with electrical tape. It didn't occur to me to twist the wires together like a twist tie. No, I very carefully separated the strands from each end, interleave them and twisted them together in a new wire that was only slightly thicker than what I started with.  I think it pulled apart once, so I cut even more insulation off so it would be overlapping even more when twisted together, and then put a real thick wad of electrical tape over like 8 inches of the cord so it could never come apart again. I spent the next 30 years thinking I'd done a pretty good job, until this thread. Thanks, thread.
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May 18, 2021 06:05
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Facebook Aunt posted:As a teen I ran over a cord with my desk chair bad enough to damage it. I'd run over a few times before I noticed. My understanding of how to fix this went so:
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May 18, 2021 06:12
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My exact thought plus impressed that you did that in like seven minutes.
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May 18, 2021 06:30
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StormDrain posted:My exact thought plus impressed that you did that in like seven minutes. I may be slow but I'm fast.
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May 18, 2021 06:31
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I read an old book about electrical work that described this pole with a little swinging cauldron on the end. Electricians would point twisted wires in ceiling boxes downward and lift up the pole with molten lead in the cauldron and dip the wires in.
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May 18, 2021 06:40
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Pekinduck posted:I read an old book about electrical work that described this pole with a little swinging cauldron on the end. Electricians would point twisted wires in ceiling boxes downward and lift up the pole with molten lead in the cauldron and dip the wires in. Yeah, that was soldering before you have portable irons. You'd melt a cauldron of solder and lift it to your workpiece. I'm in an area where I've seen those splices during demo. It's good stuff, but nowhere are safe as the barest of minimum of what we have as code now. Mostly because there was no good way to insulate it. These were the knob and tube days, which were a lot safer than people make them out to be in modern times when all they have as an example is a rotten example that is at best 80 years old. Motronic fucked around with this message at 06:49 on May 18, 2021 |
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May 18, 2021 06:46
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It's called a "solder pot" K&T, when undisturbed, is an amazingly robust wiring system, Westinghouse splices covered in solder and was of friction tape, individual insulators on and through each framing member, a robust cloth and rubber covering, fuses, that never go bad and always trip... The "danger" of Knob and Tube is when people hack into it with other wiring methods and flying wirenut splices. And the lack of grounding conductor. The give 'er a wrap around your device (receptacle, switch etc.) Is just to make troubleshooting easier, and cover the big exposed voltagy parts when you're troubleshooting live, which you shouldn't have to do ever. Blindeye posted:I tape the wire nut so it doesn't back out. If your wire nut has any chance of "backing out" then you're using them wrong, the steel spring should be dug into the copper hard enough to leave substantial tooth marks, around the already mechanically adequate twisting of the wires. If you splice two 6" lengths of copper conductor, then place the bitter ends in a vice, an average sized human pulling on the wirenut with Linesmen's pliers should be unable to dislodge the splice or effect it mechanically.
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May 18, 2021 07:03
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Elviscat posted:It's called a "solder pot" I get the impression they knew their era's flexible insulating materials aged badly and designed K&T around that.
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May 18, 2021 07:42
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They really didn't though, the vulcanized rubber they used is much better than early thermoplastic insulation, find some reduced ground varnishes cambric wire with PVC insulation that cracks off when you bend it, and compare it to some K&T, that is still bendy and supple 100 years later. K&T was some massive over engineering to compensate for lack of grounds, and to assuage fears from the "current wars" of electricity being dangerous, the same fears that lead to NA adopting the inferior 120V standard. The only problems with it is that the use of electric appliances has grown massively, it"s ungrounded (which can be rectified on a standalone basis), and it's most often unsafely modified, full stop. I spent years rewiring old houses with K&T to modern standards, and never found faults with the OG stuff, it's an insanely robust wiring method, the issues always lay with intermediate "upgrades" of questionable quality. The reason for Europe adopting the less efficient 50hz standard is even stupider btw.
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May 18, 2021 07:54
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Elviscat posted:, the same fears that lead to NA adopting the inferior 120V standard. So we're all agreed the golden standard is 400v 400hz right? *Dies clicking a light switch*
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May 18, 2021 08:14
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The thing about wire nuts is that it’s a skill based installation method which leave a lot up to the spark in question. Bad installation reduces the connection pull strength and can come undone easily through the weight of the cables pulling the connection away. Wagos don’t have this and are designed so that the connection gets tighter the more force is applied, meaning there’s less to go wrong should you be doing some form of origami in a ceiling opening to make a solid, secure connection. Always house your terminals in a terminal box or similar just in case and also easy identification as it will also keep dust and filth off the terminal, reducing the resistance between the two cores over time (look up creepage and clearance iec standards, usually in 60661-1) Wire nuts and tape isn’t great tbf as it’s inconsistent in installation.
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May 18, 2021 09:24
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I wrap electrical tape around larger receptacles going into a tight metal box, like dimmers or GFCIs in a single. A million years ago, in claims school, we were taught that T&G was about the safest wiring system against fire ever made - if not modified and abused. Also, as already noted, at the time, there weren't huge electrical draws - although they did have radiant electrical heaters in the 1930s. edit: knob & tube. I'll accept my lumps. gently caress you guys, I was just writing and estimate with butterfly T&G paneling PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 16:11 on May 18, 2021 |
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May 18, 2021 15:09
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PainterofCrap posted:I wrap electrical tape around larger receptacles going into a tight metal box, like dimmers or GFCIs in a single. Tongue & groove wiring is some next-level poo poo 
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May 18, 2021 15:19
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I'll put my tongue in your groove if you know what i mean (i do not know what you mean)
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May 18, 2021 15:29
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I was trying to troubleshoot some network cable put in by an electrician. He swore up and down he did it right. But put it on the fluke test and it failed completely. So I traced the wire and halfway through discovered where he had run out of CAT5E and spliced in another bit. Using wirenuts and electrical tape. That one hurt my soul.
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May 18, 2021 15:53
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Thomamelas posted:I was trying to troubleshoot some network cable put in by an electrician. He swore up and down he did it right. But put it on the fluke test and it failed completely. So I traced the wire and halfway through discovered where he had run out of CAT5E and spliced in another bit. Using wirenuts and electrical tape. That one hurt my soul. I've run into this multiple times. A lot of electricians have no idea how data cabling works and think you can just patch it on up like a POTS line (which they also do wrong, but it has more of a chance of passibly working for at least voice but probably not DSL).
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May 18, 2021 15:58
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