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builds character posted:Consider: https://fastech-racing.com/mte-saftblok-drill-jig.html I don't own a drill press, or I would've considered buying a jig and just doing it myself. Although, I think there's a different jig for drilling the head of the bolt, vs drilling through the threads. I think I had already come across "drilledheadbolts", but like you said they want to sell in lots of 10 and I was trying to avoid that. I did contact that ebay business about combining an order, hopefully they'll respond soon. Either way, I need to get this taken care of before the next track day I plan on going to on the weekend after Thanksgiving. I've had the new Brembo front BMC sitting in a box of parts in my office for weeks now. Edit: Looks like the ebay bolt business will combine shipping. I guess I will be buying silly titanium parts. MetaJew fucked around with this message at 20:04 on Oct 11, 2022 |
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Oct 11, 2022 20:01
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Colostomy Bag posted:Ford decided to ditch the often failure prone mlps on the side and bury it inside the transmission in newer ones. Just wanted to say that my old 87 turbo supra that was made up of another crashed supra and a spare for-parts grand national (all done by PO) wouldn't crank one day and I poked around and found that this thing that tells the transmission what position the transmission selection lever (or whatever you call a stick in an auto) was removed and zip-tied to a random bolthole under the car. I reached in and moved the lever bit to the "neutral" position and was able to start and drive it. I have no idea how it was changing gears or doing anything without that piece in position and working properly.
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Oct 11, 2022 22:03
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2009 Acura TSX, 190k miles, I'm the third owner but the other two were my dad and my mom. Got some nicks and scrapes but overall in really good shape. I've always done the scheduled maintenance, regular service etc. About 3-4 months ago I started smelling burning oil. Took it to a mechanic who replaced the oil pan and all was well. Check emission signal came on about a month ago, and I started smelling burning oil again. I took it to an independent Honda mechanic who plugged in the computer and said... 1. the catalytic converter might be bad 2. they think they know where the oil is coming from and they can probably find it because 3. the timing chain is about to "go." the computer is picking up that it's strained and it needs to be replaced They said that the catalytic converter light might be a false positive because of the timing chain, and if it was actually bad they'd refer me somewhere else that could replace it for cheaper. However, the timing chain was replaced about 90k miles ago and it probably needs to be replaced. They quoted me 2-3k to replace the timing chain, which is almost as much as Carvana quoted me for it (3700) a.) is that an insane price for the timing chain? I'm going to call around tomorrow or the day after to other places to see if I can get a better offer. A random google search says...761 dollars? b.) has anyone else heard about the timing chain causing a false positive with the catalytic converter? I do not know if that's ever been replaced on this car c.) I'm seeing a lot of conflicting info on how much a 2009 Acura TSX is worth. On one hand I don't want to put more work into than it's worth, but on the other hand it might be worth it based on how hosed the car market it the car drives fine, it's perfect for what I need it for, I do not know a thing about cars, just tell me if I should bite the bullet and repair it or dive into this hideous used car/new car/lease market.
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Oct 11, 2022 22:55
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Is it the 4 cylinder or the 6? The 4 has a chain, the 6 has a belt. It makes a difference.
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Oct 11, 2022 23:03
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If there's no other major / known issues with the car, I would absolutely repair it instead of replacing it. But I would also want another diagnosis here because even if this is the result of a service advisor trying too hard to dumb things down (and getting it wrong in the process), I'm having trouble thinking of a set of OBD2 error codes that would make me think "cat might or might not be dead" and "the timing chain is definitely bad and could be causing the cat codes". As far as whether either of those resolves the oil burning smell, it depends on why you're smelling burnt oil. I wouldn't be surprised if you have a valvecover gasket leak, which is something that would be repaired in the process of doing the timing chain. But if the real cause is you're actually burning oil within the engine, nothing about a new timing chain resolves that. Edit: Also, that, I forgot the later TSX had the option for the V6, though poking on Rockauto they only list the K24 for 2009?
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Oct 11, 2022 23:04
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TSX has always been the 4-cyl, TL was the V6 sedan. 99.9% sure the TSX never had a V6.
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Oct 11, 2022 23:33
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RIP Paul Walker posted:TSX has always been the 4-cyl, TL was the V6 sedan. A chain should last more than 100k miles, is the problem. If it was replaced once and 100k later needs replacing again, it's acting like a belt and should cost less than $1000 to swap out. Something is very wrong if it needs two chains in 200k miles, though.
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Oct 11, 2022 23:36
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2005 expedition adventures: Thanks for the instrument cluster drain help. I'm gonna get that steering column nekkid this weekend and see what's what. -- On to the only other issue that i really really want to fix. Rear HVAC. Zero blower with any combination of the fan controls, obviously no heat or cool. It's not the blend door actuator - I've replaced that with no joy. Pins on the blower motor have constant 12v on one and no continuity to ground in any position on the other. pulled the rear blower resistor, it's fine. I saw a reference to a 'rear relay/fuse box, by the hvac' but i have the entire right rear trim out, even bought a big Torx to pull the seatbelt anchors, and there is not a damned thing back there that I can ID as a fuse/relay point. It looks like the wires bundle up and then snake up front in a big octopus cluster. Anybody have a line on where the relays and fuses for all the goodness back there might reside? Edit: I found the relay, I think. Way the gently caress deep in the C pillar. Relay clicks and the contacts are fine (i pulled the case off). No fuses in that box at all, just a single relay. Edit2: Found the fuse. 107 up front. Tests good. swapped with known good (another 30a for the driver seat), no change. Gotta be the switch I mention below. I. Am. Stumped. the only other thing i can think of is - the rear hvac fan switch up front (up above the mirror) feels a little weird? like the detent 4 is kinda not there. Wondering if maybe that switch is hosed. I'm gonna drop that panel and test the switch this weekend and see if the fan comes on with jumped wires up there. Jonny 290 fucked around with this message at 02:19 on Oct 12, 2022 |
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Oct 11, 2022 23:38
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Deteriorata posted:Is it the 4 cylinder or the 6? The 4 has a chain, the 6 has a belt. It makes a difference. It's a 4 cylinder. edit* after further questioning, my dad does NOT think we've ever changed the timing chain. FizFashizzle fucked around with this message at 23:44 on Oct 11, 2022 |
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Oct 11, 2022 23:42
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Sagebrush posted:wait until you find out about where buell motorcycles keep the gasoline It's in the cube  MetaJew posted:I don't own a drill press, or I would've considered buying a jig and just doing it myself. Although, I think there's a different jig for drilling the head of the bolt, vs drilling through the threads. Good call on the jig for head vs. threads. And you're welcome for the extra second of laptime that titanium will bring you. 
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Oct 12, 2022 00:01
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FizFashizzle posted:2009 Acura TSX, 190k miles, I'm the third owner but the other two were my dad and my mom. Got some nicks and scrapes but overall in really good shape. I've always done the scheduled maintenance, regular service etc. K20s and k24s have a chain tensioner that's pressurized off the engine oil. It's a known failure point for them. They're sensitive to ignoring oil changes and or low oil. But at 200k its probably about time for one. The warning is a crank trigger error code. As the tensioner relaxes it'll see an engine position sensor mismatch. Unfortunately it is an interference engine so if it goes it'll trash all the valves and be engine swap or rebuild time. So they're probably on to something there, and the job is big enough they'll be replacing a lot of gaskets and seals at the same time. If the cats plugged it's probably another issue, and that issue will also have to be fixed or the new cat will die quickly. Usually a plugged cat makes the car drive like poo poo though. Does it burn oil? Like how many miles before you have to top it up. Is is super rusty or damaged in any other way? I'd fix it. Used cars are hosed atm. Idk if that price is good or not though. It's a lot of work in a cramped space plus parts. If they're quoting oem honda parts there's 1k easy of it.
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Oct 12, 2022 00:39
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builds character posted:It's in the cube My ktm super moto kept a lot of its oil in the downtube. Titanium fastener question: I've read that I should be using antiseize , to avoid galvanic corrosion. I guess since I planned on using safety wire, loctite shouldn't be a concern-- but is this right? Or would blue loctite also prevent corrosion or seizing?
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Oct 12, 2022 00:42
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Hadlock posted:The Texas/Austin gigafactory took delivery of a 9000 ton press sometime in the last month. I believe they originally ordered a ~8100 ton press to do the front casting but was upgraded to 9000 for whatever reason. I think larger models like the cybertruck, or maybe Tesla Semis might need the greater capacity and the press mfg just wanted to develop/build the larger model or something. The rear casting is done with a 6200 ton press. The machines have a theoretical capacity of 1000 castings a day with a 90 cycle time. This is what I meant when I said the press finds out stuff before employees do. I don't work in the casting area, though I walk past it often enough to see what's sitting around. I don't have the PPE to get remotely close to the equipment - as in I've never even seen the equipment - and would likely get a "wtf are you doing in this area?" if I did wander over there. I was under the impression they already had the front Model Y gigapress, and the new one was for the truck/semi - but that knowledge was from online sources. I know I've seen the cast front pieces sitting around (and some of the EV blogs posted photos of the structural battery packs visible from windows last month), but I have no idea if the front pieces were cast locally or brought in from a different factory. God knows the building is large enough to hide a few mammoth presses; I've seen maybe 1/4 of one floor. It will absolutely be a game changer as far as assembly speed. It's going to streamline a lot of stuff (particularly the interior), and I'm fairly certain that's also why we're finally getting more than 2 shifts and cutting down to 48 hours a week "soon" (but still keeping 5+ days a week of production going)- the streamlining is going to eliminate a good number of stations in several lines, leaving us with a fair number of excess staff if we didn't add a shift. I'm fine with another shift; I'm burnt out as hell with 60 hour work weeks. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 01:20 on Oct 12, 2022 |
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Oct 12, 2022 01:13
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Yeah I was watching some more videos, particularly the Monroe Live guys, looks like they've been casting some kind of front clip, but I suspect based on the way the article is written it'll be a larger/more complete casting. Looks like front clip castings started in early May and started deliveries in July(?) Pretty cool tech. My experience with cast iron has always been that it's pretty brittle but this stuff looks pretty stout. I'm sure GM and Ford have groups doing feasibility studies on this stuff as we speak. The hardware to do this kind of manufacturing at this scale didn't exist five years ago
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Oct 12, 2022 02:19
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Evrart Claire posted:Bottom of my front bumper cover got yanked out of place. It's mostly pushed back into shape but not really held in place well. All of the retainers on the bottom are gone. It's an old 2002 chrysler sebring so the exact type of retainer push pins aren't in stock in-stores anywhere and to get them online I'd have to order some bulk pack of universal ones. This is the part rock auto lists, but it's like $2.44 each + shipping so I'd be spending like $30 to replace all of them. There's a lot of packs with a variety of universal ones on amazon/walmart but i'm not sure which would fit. The Dorman link says that the push rivets that you need are .63” in diameter and about an inch and a half long. You can search them in Amazon by those dimensions and get at least a couple dozen for $10-$12. If they ain’t right, you can send them back, too. I’ve fixed a ton of family & friend’s front-end tupperware issues over the years, and now have a couple hundred assorted in my bins. Worst case scenario to go up to the next largest commonly-available diameter and just drill the holes out.
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Oct 12, 2022 03:48
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honda whisperer posted:
Doesn’t burn oil normally. Drives very well. Im gonna just fix it I think. Thanks for the advice. Sure beats 440/mo for a new HRV input down a refundable deposit for.
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Oct 12, 2022 11:06
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FizFashizzle posted:2009 Acura TSX, 190k miles, I'm the third owner but the other two were my dad and my mom. Got some nicks and scrapes but overall in really good shape. I've always done the scheduled maintenance, regular service etc. I had a 2004 CR-V that had a persistent cat code, that kept coming back until it would show up seconds after I'd cleared it & after I'd replaced both O2 sensors and the cat. Turned out to be the timing chain. Something about the valve timing being off from the rest of the engine. I replaced it myself, not a fun job because I am large with large hands and the timing cover is a bit close to the passenger inner fender/strut. It also had a persistent oil leak from the timing chain cover. I'm sure yours is a different engine, mine was the 4-cylinder, though I can see why the labor might be high. The chain, by the way, was about 3/4" longer than the replacement.  If the oil is not changed regularly, premature chain stretch is possible. My sister was not good with oil changes. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 15:55 on Oct 12, 2022 |
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Oct 12, 2022 15:50
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So I'm wondering what the heck is going on with my truck ('06 Silverado, 5.3 L33 engine) When the oil life hits between 40-50%, when the engine is cold, the oil pressure is way lower than usual (but not low enough to trigger a warning light or a dash warning) It'll swim around between 20psi and 30psi until the oil hits temperature, and it will stick at 35-40psi like normal. This happens pretty regularly when oil life hits 40-50%, and I just change the oil and oil filter, and the behavior is much better afterwards. This is usually around 3-4k miles. Oil I use: Mobil 1 Synthetic (whatever subbrand I Can get, usually Extended Performance or High Milage) Oil Filter: Wix XP Not the best video, it usually swims around more than this but you get an idea. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uFevGvhJBsQ
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Oct 13, 2022 18:06
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I think I already know the answer to this, but is there anything in the US market (or coming to the US market in the next 2 years) that’s remotely like the Mazda5? I’m looking for essentially a compact minivan with a minimum of 6 seats. Are there even any SUV/crossovers that try to maximize interior per footprint? Everything is so big now.
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Oct 13, 2022 20:01
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nitrogen posted:So I'm wondering what the heck is going on with my truck ('06 Silverado, 5.3 L33 engine) I'd send some oil over to Blackstone for an analysis because it's cheap and fun to do. What does the oil read on the dipstick at that time? Is it possible you're burning a lot of oil and have a low quantity of oil at the 40-50% oil life mark? Have you measured the amount of oil drained to verify the quantity? I had a Saturn that burned a lot of oil so I measured it to get an idea of how much I was losing. It was a lot. I did it by accident because I would funnel the used oil into the containers the new oil came from so I could transport it to recycle. When four quarts went in but I only had to take two for recycling it was clear there was a big problem.
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Oct 13, 2022 21:52
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I suspected it might be related to the variable displacement oil pump on the later GM V6s and I think V8s, but I checked rockauto and they don't have that in 06, so I'm kind of stumped because that's backwards from what I'd expect. Maybe bad oil pressure sensor? Though probably not.
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Oct 13, 2022 22:18
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StormDrain posted:I'd send some oil over to Blackstone for an analysis because it's cheap and fun to do. I actually tried to do this last time but I had a bunch of old bottles that had the old USPS return info and they never made it to Blackstone unfortunately. I'll go order some kits. This thing does burn oil, but it's variable, maybe between a quarter and a half a quart every 1500 miles. I should have mentioned it's a very high mileage engine with over 230,000 miles on it. I have cash set aside to replace this engine someday but I'd rather not until I really have to. kastein posted:I suspected it might be related to the variable displacement oil pump on the later GM V6s and I think V8s, but I checked rockauto and they don't have that in 06, so I'm kind of stumped because that's backwards from what I'd expect. I actually replaced the oil pressure sensor about 6 or 7 months ago and it didn't make any change, since it's super easy to change out. I see these YouTube videos with people cleaning their engines by running kerosene or diesel or engine flush. I have to wonder if that's even worth considering because it seems like a bad idea to me but I don't know poo poo which is why I'm posting on an internet forum. nitrogen fucked around with this message at 22:35 on Oct 13, 2022 |
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Oct 13, 2022 22:32
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BadSamaritan posted:I think I already know the answer to this, but is there anything in the US market (or coming to the US market in the next 2 years) that’s remotely like the Mazda5? The Tiguan is probably the smallest thing that has three rows. It's about four inches longer than the Mazda5 was. I wouldn't want to put full sized adults in the back row. I wouldn't do that on the Mazda5, either, unless I didn't like those people or they were very short. The current Sorento is also a three row, but it's bigger than the Tiguan by about five inches.
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Oct 13, 2022 22:35
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nitrogen posted:This thing does burn oil, but it's variable, maybe between a quarter and a half a quart every 1500 miles. That sounds a lot like there's a bit of sludge in it.  It might be worth doing - just don't put any load on the engine with any kind of flush in it until you drain it and change the oil. If you really want to make sure you get it all out, use the cheapest oil you can easily get and a cheap filter for the change, drive it gently for 10-15 minutes (or let it idle for 30ish), do another oil change with your normal Mobil 1 + Wix. That amount of oil consumption is drat good for those kind of miles, it's within spec for a good number of new cars.
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Oct 14, 2022 02:26
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STR posted:That amount of oil consumption is drat good for those kind of miles, it's within spec for a good number of new cars. Yeah my GTI burns probably twice that much oil with around 80k miles on it.
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Oct 14, 2022 02:37
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My 2015 civic sat from January to April this year (~4months) and the battery died. I bought a new battery from a Honda parts desk at my local dealer and installed it in April. I drove it a few times, but it mostly sat since then and the new battery has died again. I called the dealer and they said since I bought it at the parts desk, there’s no warranty and had I bought it at service and had them install it, it would have a 100 month warranty. Is there any way to recharge this 6 month old, now dead battery? Or do I need to buy another one? E: I’m preparing to sell it, so I want to make sure the thing works, but I’d rather not spend another $150 to do so if I don’t need to.
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Oct 14, 2022 13:53
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Have you tried to jump the car?
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Oct 14, 2022 13:56
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:Have you tried to jump the car? Not yet. If it does start with a jump, and I assume it will, should I just let it run for a while?
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Oct 14, 2022 14:07
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Cacafuego posted:Not yet. If it does start with a jump, and I assume it will, should I just let it run for a while? Yeah, you should drive it for ~20 mins or so to charge the battery. If it won't start on its own after that, you'll need a new battery.
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Oct 14, 2022 14:40
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:Yeah, you should drive it for ~20 mins or so to charge the battery. If it won't start on its own after that, you'll need a new battery. Ok, I’ll give that a shot. Thanks!
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Oct 14, 2022 14:47
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I had problems with a dying battery in the Expedition as i'd occasionally go 2-3 months between drives with it. I picked up one of those $29 10 watt solar panels to throw on the dash and it keeps the battery quite happy now. If your cig lighter socket is live with the key out, it'll work on yours as well. Doesn't have to be a full sun situation either.
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Oct 14, 2022 19:04
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Jonny 290 posted:I had problems with a dying battery in the Expedition as i'd occasionally go 2-3 months between drives with it. I picked up one of those $29 10 watt solar panels to throw on the dash and it keeps the battery quite happy now. If your cig lighter socket is live with the key out, it'll work on yours as well. Doesn't have to be a full sun situation either. Good tip, thank you!
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Oct 14, 2022 19:20
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I've been using those too since we have a vast fleet (well, less vast now) of decaying poo poo boxes with old batteries. It's impressive how much less I have to jump cars when I keep the solar panels plugged in.
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Oct 14, 2022 22:23
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Do note on those panels, though, that I developed a weird stumble with it plugged in and lying on the floorboard when I was driving. I suspect it, like all solar panels without blocking diodes, was doing weird stuff to the +12 line and pulling it down because the alternator was out-volting it. I added a blocking diode in the cig lighter plug for it and it went away, but you can also just yank the plug when you start it up if you experience any issues.
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Oct 14, 2022 22:39
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kastein posted:I've been using those too since we have a vast fleet (well, less vast now) of decaying poo poo boxes with old batteries. It's impressive how much less I have to jump cars when I keep the solar panels plugged in. Hey you're smart, is there any risk of cooking a battery if I use one of those? I have a low wattage panel I keep plugged in always but knowing it has no charge controls I get worried.
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Oct 14, 2022 22:44
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That really shouldn't happen even if it was without a back diode - the alternator should be able to easily supply enough current to burn the solar panel, its cable, or the cig lighter fuse, whichever comes first. But yeah definitely get one with a back diode built in because nothing sucks more than putting a solar panel on your car to keep the battery charged and having the car try to keep the solar panel charged instead. Bit counterproductive, really. E: very very very low. And lead acid batteries tolerate being float charged pretty well. It should be fine unless you're putting a really big panel on there. Technically I guess you could boil the battery but it's very unlikely.
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Oct 14, 2022 22:45
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kastein posted:That really shouldn't happen even if it was without a back diode - the alternator should be able to easily supply enough current to burn the solar panel, its cable, or the cig lighter fuse, whichever comes first. But yeah definitely get one with a back diode built in because nothing sucks more than putting a solar panel on your car to keep the battery charged and having the car try to keep the solar panel charged instead. Bit counterproductive, really. Sweet thanks. This one is pretty small, 8 watts I think, maybe 10. The truck cranks so nice every time I go out and fire it up which rules.
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Oct 14, 2022 22:52
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You can get a generic solar charge controller for ~$10 if you're very particular about not overcharging the battery https://www.amazon.com/QWORK-Controller-Adjustable-Parameter-Backlight/dp/B08YN6282C/
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Oct 14, 2022 23:34
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8W won't be enough to hurt anything. that's 8W in the most ideal of conditions. which last for like 10 minutes on the best of summer days unless you're running a heliostat.
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Oct 14, 2022 23:35
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So what exactly killed the straight 8? Seems like Pontiac and Packard had straight 8 up until 1953 and then nobody made them anymore. I guess one major issue was that they're long, tall blocks so they'll twist without proper bracing. I'm trying to figure out how long a BMW b58 block is. Looks like Pontiac I8s were 31 and 34 inches long (head length). According to one guy the Packard I8 was approaching 900 lbs fully dressed, which seems excessive but probably in like with 1930s engineering capability Edit: And yes I've read all the blogs and Google preferred garbage. Looks like they got replaced by the V8 but feels like an important detail is missing. Packard was racing (and winning) these engines right up until the very end so doesn't seem like any insurmountable problem, besides needing 8-9 main bearings Hadlock fucked around with this message at 14:25 on Oct 15, 2022 |
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Oct 15, 2022 14:17
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